US2116621A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

May 10, 1938. P H, DlxN. 2,116,621

SHQE

Filed Nov`I 16. 1936 Wm/TU@ Patented May 10, 1938 UNITED i STATES PATENT orties Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J.. a corporation of New Jersey Application November 16, 1936, Serial No. 111,005

9 Claims'.

. This invention relates to improvements in shoes `and `more particularly in the back seamed p01- i tions of shoe uppers.

,The upper of a shoe usually comprises two quarter pieces, the rear marginal portions of which are inturned and secured together by stitches `with their outer surfaces contacting to form` the back seam. The parts are initially assembled wrong-side out, the quarter pieces being laid one upon the other With their outer surfaces in contact, and the parts being stitched together in that condition. Thereafter the assembly is `turned or opened out so that the stitched marginal portions constitute a ridge at the inner side of the assembly. In order to reduce so ar as practicable the prominence of this ridge it is customary to press or rub the back seam before the quarter assembly has been turned. Such treatment, however, frequently causes the back seam ridge tot be turned over toward one side `or the other in such a manner as to make the seam crooked, Moreover, in Working the quarter assembly over the last there is also more or less A.tendency to deflect the ridge of the seam from y.its desired erect position in a manner to intertere with the desired straight/ness or evenness of the seam.

Objects of the present invention are to insure against the occurrence of the above-mentioned undesirable conditions and to improve the construction and appearance of the back-seamed portions` of shoe uppers.

With this object in view the invention provides `a shoe quarter comprising two pieces having their rear marginal portions disposed with their outer surfaces in contact and united by back-seam stitches, and a strip of padding which is secured to theinner side oi each of said marginal portions. Asherein illustrated, each of the quarter pieces comprises an cuter layer of material Such as leather and an inner fabric layer or socalled doubler piece and the strips of padding are secured in place by means of the back-seam stitches which extend through the padding strips aswell as through the outer quarter pieces and v the doubler pieces. The quarter assembly may .also include a lining but usually, and as illustrated herein, the back-seam stitches do not extend through the lining. The padding strips are bound closely and tightly against the opposite sides of the back-seam ridge produced by the stitching together` of the rear marginal portions of. the'quarter pieces, the stitches being so disposed `a`s to draw the soft material of the padding strips tightly into the angles betweenY the ridge (C1. Sli- 57) and the adjacent inside surfaces of the quarter.

Thus the padding strips are enabled to support the ridge and to prevent it from being turned over or deflected toward one side or the other by any seam rubbing or pressing operation to which it may be subjected for the purpose of reducing the ridge before the assembly is turned rightside out, After the quarter assembly has been turned right-side out and While it is being applied to and Worked over the last `the padding 10 strips serve to support the back-seam ridge in its desired erect position and thus to insure that the desired straightness and evenness of the back seam shall be maintained. Moreover, in the finished shoe the padding strips serve to ll the spaces between the quarter pieces and the lining, or, if a counter stiffener is employed, between the `quarter and the counter stiener in the im- `back seam.

The invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which Fig. 1 is a fragmentary plan View of a shoe quarter showing the improved construction of the back-seemed portion thereof;

Fig. 2"is a sectional view taken along the line II-II of Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a cross-sectional View on au enlarged scale ci the back-seamed portions of a quarter assembly illustrating the operation of pressing or rubbing the back seam; and

Fig. 4 is a cross-sectional View of the parts shown in Figs. 1 and 2 as they appear after a quarter lining has been secured thereto and the v parts have been turned right-side out and assembled, together with a counter stiffener, upon a last.

In the drawing, my improved construction is shown as embodied in aquarter assembly for a shoe upper comprising the pieces I0, Hl of a tvvopart quarter, the pieces I2, l2 of a two-part quarter doubler, two padding strips I4, I4, and a line of back-seam stitches I6 by means of which the rear marginal portions of the quarter pieces and the doubler pieces are secured together and the padding strips are held `in place at opposite sides of the ridge of the back seam. In accordance with the usual practice in the making of two-part quarters, the quarter pieces Ill, I0 which 55 to the exposed rear marginal surfaces of the doubler pieces I2, I2 before the doubler and quarter pieces are stitched together and thereafter the back-seam stitching operation is performed so that the stitches I6, in addition to extending through and securing together the quarter pieces and the doubler pieces, extend also through the padding strips and firmly secure the latter in place along the rear marginal portions of the doubler pieces. In cases where no doubler pieces are to be employed the padding strips I2, I2 will be laid along the rear marginal portions of the quarter pieces themselves and secured directly to the latter by the back-seam stitches. As illustrated, the padding strips I4 consist of short lengths or strips of soft resilient material, such as loosely spun cotton yarn, although other suitable cushioning or padding material may be employed. The stitching operation may be performed by the use of any suitable sewing machine which will preferably be provided with a gage suitably constructed and arranged to guide the work and to position the padding strips in the desired relation to the edges ofthe quarter pieces. At the completion of the back-seam stitching operation the parts will appear as shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

In Fig. 3 the back-seamed portion of the quarter is shown as it appears after the stitchedtogether parts have been opened up more or less preparatory to the performance of a seam-pressing or rubbing operation but before they have been turned right-side out preparatory to being placed upon a last. As clearly shown at I8 in Fig. 3, the back-seam stitching operation results in the forming of a ridge at the inner side of the assembly. If, in accordance with a customary practice, the back-seamed portion of the quarter is to be pressed or rubbed for the purpose of reducing the prominence of the ridge of. the back seam, the padding strips I2, I2 will assist, during the rubbing or pressing operation, to support the ridge of the back seam so as to prevent it from being turned over toward one side or the other in such a manner as to result in the formation of a crooked seam. Although the seam rubbing or pressing operation may be accomplished by other means, it is illustrated in Fig. 4 as being performed by means of a rubbing tool 26 which operates upon the edges of the backseamed portions of the quarter assembly while the latter is being fed over a rotary work support 22 in the operation of a machine such, for example, as that disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,920,253, granted August 1, 1933, upon application of P. R. Glass.

After the back-seam ridge has been pressed as above described and a quarter lining 24 (Fig. 4) has been stitched to the upper margin of. the quarter, the quarter assembly is turned right-side out, a vamp (not shown) is stitched to the quarter to complete the formation of the shoe upper, a counter stifener 26 (Fig. 4) is interposed between the quarter doubler and the quarter lining and the parts are assembled together with an insole upon a last 28, where, after the usual pullingover operation has been performed, the upper is ready to be lasted. It will be noticed with reference to Fig. 4 that the presence of the padding strips I4, I4 substantially increases the width of the ridge of the back seam so that there is little if any tendency for the back-seam ridge to be distorted or turned over toward one side or the other by any strains to which it may be subjected during the performance of the assembling, pulling-over and lasting operations. Consequently, the back seam will not become uneven but will be retained in its desired straight condition. In addition, the padding strips fill in the spaces between the quarter and the quarter lining at opposite sides of the ridge of the back seam so as to impart a desired padded or upholstered effect to the exterior of. the upper in the immediate vicinity of the back seam. The use of the padding strips renders it practicable to employ quarter pieces cut from upper leather which is thinner than that usually employed and still to secure the desired appearance of thickness or plumpness of the upper at the back of the shoe. The back-seam stitches are cushioned by means of the padding strips through which they extend so that they are less liable to break either during the stitching operation or later While the shoe is being worn. Moreover, the padding of the back seam, as herein described, renders unnecessary the customary operations of taping or staying the seam and saves the expense of such operations while being even more effective in providing for the desired strength, evenness and attractiveness of appearance of the back-seamed portions of the upper.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of. the United States is:

l. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces having their rear marginal portions disposed with their outer surfaces in contact and united by backseam stitches, and padding strips of soft resilient material, said strips engaging the inner sides of `each of said marginal portions and being secured to said pieces by said stitches.

2. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces having their rear marginal portions disposed with their outer surfaces in contact and united by back-seam stitches, said portions forming a ridge extending heightwise of the quarter at the inner side thereof, and strips of padding located in the angles between said ridge and the adjacent inside surfaces of the quarter and held in place by said stitches so as to support said ridge.

3. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces having inturned rear marginal portions disposed with their outer surfaces in contact, said portions forming a ridge upon the inside of the quarter, a line of stitches uniting said inturned marginal portions, and padding strips engaging the sides of said ridge and held by said line of stitches in positions to support the ridge.

4. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces having their rear marginal portions inturned and disposed with contacting outer surfaces forming a back seam, padding strips overlying the inner sides of said marginal portions, and a line of back-seam stitches uniting said marginal portions and holding said padding strips in place.

5. A shoe quarter comprising two pieces having their rear marginal portions inturned and secured together by back-seam stitches, said inturned portions forming a ridge upon the inside of the quarter, padding strips of loosely spun cotstrips thereto, the material of said padding strips being drawn by said stitches into the angles between said ridge and the adjacent inside surfaces of the quarter so as to afford support of said ridge.

6. A quarter assembly for a shoe upper comprising two quarter pieces and two doubler pieces al1 having their rear marginal portions inturned, the inturned marginal portions of the quarter pieces being arranged in contact with one another and united by back-seam stitches which extend also through the doubler pieces, and padding strips held by said stitches against the inner sides of the inturned marginal portions and adjacent inside surface portions of said doubler pieces.

'7. A quarter assembly for a shoe upper comprising two quarter pieces having their rear marginal portions inturned and united by back-seam stitches to form a ridge at the inside of said assembly, and padding strips held by said stitches against the sides of said ridge and against the adjacent inside surfaces of said quarter pieces so as to support said ridge in an upstanding position.

8. In a shoe, an upper comprising two quarter pieces having their rear marginal portions inturned and disposed with contacting outer surfaces forming a back seam, a quarter lining, a counter stiffener interposed between said quarter pieces and said lining, padding strips of soft resilient material filling the spaces between said quarter pieces and said counter stiiener in the immediate Vicinity of the back seam, and a line of back-seam stitches uniting said marginal portions of the quarter pieces and holding said strips in place.

9. In a shoe, two quarter pieces having inturned rear marginal portions stitched together and forming a back-seam ridge, an inner upper member bearing -against said back-seam ridge, and padding strips filling the spaces between said quarter pieces and said inner upper member at opposite sides of said ridge and held against said ridge by said stitches.

PAUL H. DIXON.

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