US2098770A - Sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

S. ZONIS Nov. 9, 1 93 7.

SEWING MAGHINE Filed Oct. 22, 1955 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 ya'ngy Zonz's WWW;

Nov. ,9; 193.7. s, MS 2,098,770

' SEWING MACHINE Filed Oct. 22. 1935 Sheets-Sheet 2 @Wng Zonz's Na 9, 1937. s. zoN|s 2,098,770

SEWING MACHINE Filed 001:. 22, 1935 4 Sheets-Sheef 3 Nov. 9, 1937. s ZoNls 2,098,770

' SEWING MACHINE,

I Filed 001:. 22. 1955 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 sydn y Zanz's KRWvew I I W7 6%- 3% W M Patented Nov. 9, 1937 UNITED STATES. PATENT oFFieE Singer Manufacturing Company,

Elizabeth,

N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application October 22, 1935, Serial No. 46,071 30 Claims. (01. 112- 81) This invention relates to improvements in sewing machines and has for its primary object to provide a stitch-forming mechanism of simple construction and adapted for high speed operation.

The invention has for a further object to provide a simple form of thread-handling mechanism for cooperation with an endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needle in the formation of stitches.

More specifically, the present invention has for an object to provide a two-needle hemstitching machine with thread-handling mechanism of simple construction and adapted to form chainstitch open-work seams.

With the above and other objects in view, as will hereinafter appear, the present invention consists in the devices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter described in connection with the accompanying drawings which illustrate a preferred embodiment of the invention and in which:

Fig. l is a front side elevation, with the bedplate partly in section, of a single-thread chain- -stitch hemstitching machine containing the im-' proved thread-handling mechanism. Fig. 2 is a bottom plan View of the nemstitching machine. Fig. 3 represents an enlarged cross-section of the machine bed-plate, substantially on the line 13-3 of Fig. 1. Fig. 4 represents a detail view of the feed-lift actuating mechanism. Fig. 5 represents a vertical longitudinal section of the machine bed-plate, through the throat-plate needleapertures and with the loopers in loop-seizing .;position. Fig. 6 is a top-plan view showing the looper and needle-guard actuating mechanism, in the position thereof corresponding to that illustrated in Fig. 5. Fig. 7 represents an enlarged detail view, partly in section, of an auxiliary ten- -sion device for controlling the slack needlethread. Fig. 8 is a detail view illustrating the position of the thread-loop detained by the looper behind the needle during the second penetration of the piercer-aperture by the needle. Fig. 9 "represents the needle-thread pull-01f device, in a cross-sectional View of the machine bracket-arm substantially on the line 9-9 of Fig. 1. Fig. 10 represents a vertical section of the machine bracket-arm substantially on the line I0-ID of "Fig. l and illustrating the intermittent-tension in released position. Fig. 11 represents a horizontal section of the intermittent tension in closed position. Fig. 12 is a top plan view of the throatplate. Fig. 13 represents a longitudinal section of the throat-plate substantially on the line I3'I3 of Fig. 12.

The needle and feed-actuating mechanisms of thepresent hemstitching machine correspond substantially with the disclosures in the U. S 5 Patents to G. M. Eames et al., No. 1,721,072, July 16, 1929, and to A. H. DeVoe, No. 1,940,399, Dec. 19, 1933. It is to be understood, however, that the present invention is not limited to the details of construction of the needle and feed-actuating mechanisms disclosed in said prior patents and herein described in more general terms.

As illustrated in the drawings, the present hemstitching machine has the usual frame comprising a bed-:or cloth-plate I, from which rises a hollow standard 2 of an overhanging bracketarm 3. terminating in a head 4.

Journaled in suitable bearings provided inthe overhanging bracket-arm is a rotary main shaft 5 carrying at one end a belt-pulley 6 and at its; opposite end a crank-disk I. The crank-disk I is connectedby a link 8 with the needle-bar 9 journaled for vertical reciprocation in suitable bearings provided in the head 4. The needlebar 9 .carries at its lower end a supporting plate Ell-pivotally sustaining a pair of needle-carriers Iland I2 for adjustment toward and from each other. Carried by the respective needle-carriers are needles I3 and I4, and also upstanding guiderods I5 and I6 vertically reciprocated with the needle-bar.

ffhe guide-rod I5 passes through a transversely apertured swivel-pin I'I journaled in a bearing boss at the free end of a crank-arm it carried by a horizontally disposed rock-shaft I9 journaled in the bracket-arm head 4. The guide-rod I6 is similarly controlled by a swivel-pin 29 journaled in a crank-arm2I of a rock-shaft 22 substantially parallel to the rock-shaft I9 and also journaled in -the head 4. As more fully disclosed in the prior U. S. Patent No. 1,940,399, the respective rock-shafts IS and 22 are operatively connected to pitman rods 23 and 24 deriving endwise movemenl',s-- -from a rotary cam 25 secured for rotation with a spur-gear 25 driven from the main shaft 5; to rotate once for three rotations of said mainshaft. 7

,The machine has the usual piercer mechanism comprising a main piercer-and-shaper 25 carried by a piercer-barf! journaled for vertical reciprocation in the bracket-arm head 4, said piercer being actuated by the usual connections with a horizontally disposed rock-shaft'28 journaled; in suitable bearings provided at the rear side of the bracket-arm 3. Clamped upon the the opposite end is provided with a strap em rock-shaft 28 is a crank-arm 29 9) pivotally connected to one end of a pitman 30 of which bracing an eccentric 3| upon the main-shaft 5.

. The usual auxiliary piercer 32 is preferably mounted upon the needle-bar plate ['0 so as to be disposed in front of the main-piercer 26, the latter being recessed at opposite sides thereof tore-1 ceive the needles in their narrowly spaced reciprocations. The main-piercer 26 reciprocates once for each needle reciprocation, but the rela-. tive timing is preferablysuch that said mainpiercer both descends and rises in advance of :the corresponding movements of the needles. Being carried by the needle-bar, theauxilia lypier'c- 'er 32 of course reciprocates with the needlesnbllt "in a single path.

Secured upon the cloth-plate I =is-a throat-- plate 33 provided with parallel feed-dqgslots .34

extending along opposite sides of a work-supporting bar 35.' I he throat-plate bar 35 has an auxiliary-piercer aperture 36, rearwardly of which are the adjacent needle-apertures 31, separated bya' guard-plate 38 extendedtddepend vertically from the underside of the throat-plate and in the direction of feed of the work. The guardplate 38 has a vertical slot 39 adjacent to and connecting the front ends of the needle-apertures 3], said slot 39 providingclearance for the 30 main-piercer 26. The slot 39 terminates at its lower end in a needle-guiding web 40 of which the opposite faces are divergently inclined down' wardly to guide the needles in their narrowly spaced reciprocating movements. The guardplate 38 serves to prevent entanglement of the adjacent limbs of the needle-thread loops.

The upper face of the-throat-plate bar 35 is provided with a short groove 4| extending from theauxiliary-piercer aperture 36 to the'piercer- -slot 39. Thework-penetrating movement of the hanced by the resulting uniform spacing of the.

. hemstitch-seam apertures. r

The upper edge 42 ofthe guard-plate 38, rearwardly of the piercer-slot 39,-is likewise cut-away to obviate interference with the cross-bars of V the hemstitch seam, while feeding' the work.

Preferably the edge 42 is inclined upwardly from the piercer-slot 39 to merge with the'upper ace of the throat-platebar 35 at substantially the rearward ends of the needle-apertures 31, said needle-apertures being v preferably slightly elongated in the direction of seam formation'to facilitate the formation of chain-stitches.- -Rear-. wardly of the needle-apertures 31, the throatplate bar v35 is provided'with parallel grooves 43 afiording seam clearances.

Operating through the throat-plate slots 34 is a lower four-motion feed-dog 44 opposed-byte.

presser-foot 45 of any usual orsuitable construction. The feed-dog 44 is carried birkaZfeed-bar 46 pivoted, at one end, to a rocker l lgcarrled by 'afeed-advance rock-shaft 48. At its opposite end, the feed-bar is operativelyengaged by a rock-arm 49 of a feed-lift rock shaftill', said wardly of the needles.

the advantage that'the needles [3 and l4 there'by" rock-shafts 48 and 50 being journaled in suitable bearings provided at the under side of the bedplate I. The feed-advance rock-shaft 48 carries a crank-arm 5i pivotally connected to the lower end of a link :52, of which the upper end is ad-' justably securedupon a segment-lever 53 'disposed outside of the bracket-arm. The segmentlever 53issecured upon a fulcrum -shaft 54 journaled in the-bracket-arm standard 2, said seg-.;

'ment-lever carrying a roller-stud 55 entering a scam-groove 56 formed in the side face of a feedcam 51. The feed-cam 51 is secured for rota tion .with :the spur-gear 25 in the usual manner andis so formed as to impart a work-advancing impulse to the feed-dog 44 while the needles are :out of the 'work, .and a retarded return ,move-' ment during the formation of three successive stitches.

'Clamped upon the feed-lift rock-shaft 50 is a crank-arm 58 connected by a link 59 to a rock arm'60 pivotally mounted upon the fulcrum-shaft 54. The rock-arm 60 carries a roller-stud 6| entering a feed-lift cam-groove 62 in the side face'of' the spur-gear 25'. The cam-groove 62 is so formed that the feed-dog 44 is raised into vancing movement thereof and'remains lowered, out-of engagement with the Work, during the retarded return movement of the feed-dog.

Journaled in bearing- lugs 63, 64 and "65, de-

pending from the-cloth-plate-l is a rotary looperactuating shaft 66 connected to be'driven from- 'themain-shaft 5 in one-to-one relation therewith. Secured upon said shaft 66, adjacent .to

the bearing-lug 63 is a spur-gear 61in driving en'- gagement with a similar gear 68 upon a loopershaft 69 journaled in the bearing lug 63 above engagement with the work during the'work-adand substantially parallel to the looper-actuating, shaft 66. Carried by the looper-shaft 69 is a rotary looper formed with aloop-seizing beak l0 and with -a loop-detaining and -spreading wing H. Between the heel 12 of the beak-forming portion of thelooper and the wing II is-a throat I3 which receives the thread-loop a, a, seized by the looper from the needle and in which throat the thread -loop is detained in spread condition until after the looper has seized a'succeeding,

thread-loop and has carried it through the previously formed and detained thread-loop. In the preferred embodiment of the invention, 'the'looper-beak path of rotation is disposed betweenthe spaced work-penetration paths of the'needle l3, thedooper-beak 10 cooperating with the needle l3 at the side thereof remote from the needle l4 and having its loop-seizing movement in the direction of feed of the work;

Cooperating with the needle !4, at the side thereof remote "from the needle 13, is a rotary looper 14 similar to the above described looper, but reversely constructed so that the beak of said looper l4 likewise has its loop-seizing movement in the direction of feed of the work. The looper Miscarried by a'lo'oper-shaft 15 journaled in the v bearing-lugffi i in alinement with the looper-shaft 69, said shaft 'l'fibeing connected to the actuating shaft GSBby spur-gears l6 and ii.

Referring more particularly to Figs. 6 and 8 of the drawings, it will be noted'that the alined axes of rotationof the loopers are disposed in a vertical plane which is rearward of the vertical.

plane containing the paths of reciprocation of theneedles t3 and i4, whereby the bottoms of the looper-throats 73 are likewise positioned rear- This arrangement has descend, with certainty, in front of both limbs a, a, or b, b of the previously formed needlethread loops held detained on the loopers, regardless of the fact that the work is advanced only once during the formation of three successive stitches and that the needles I3 and I4 are vibrated laterally to descend in different paths.

Cooperating with the respective needles I3 and I 4, at the looper sides thereof, are needle-andloop guards I8 and 19. The guard I8 has a supporting shank mounted in a guideway 8I, formed in the bearing-lug 63, for horizontal sliding movements of the guard transversely of the line of seam formation. The guard-shank 8B is held in its guideway by a cover-plate 82, removably secured upon the bearing-lug 63 by screws 83. Depending from one end of the guardshank 80 is a roller 84 entering a cam-groove 85 formed in a barrel-cam 86 secured upon the outer end of the looper-shaft 69. The end of the guard 18 adjacent to the needle I3 is provided with a needle-receiving notch 81 and, rearwardly of said notch 81, with a loop-detaining notch 88. The notch 87 is preferably so formed that, when the needle I3 is engaged by the walls of said notch 81, a thread-clearance is provided between the needle and the bottom of the notch 81 for the limb of the thread-loop formed by the needle and extending to the work. While, therefore, the needle-engaging notch 87 does not interfere with formation of the needle-thread loops and the presentation of said loops to the looper, the rear wall of said notch 8'! acts as an abutment for the loop-limb a, to oppose yielding movement of said loop-limb responsive to initial entry of the looper-beak I0 into the thread-loop. The loop-detaining notch 88 is adapted to receive both limbs a, a of the thread-loop detained in the throat 73 of the looper, said guardnotch 88 functioning primarily to insure against premature casting off by the loopers of the loop a, a, thereby to minimize liability of thread entanglement from undue twisting of prematurely cast-off loops.

Bearing in mind that the needle I3 penetrates the work at points spaced crosswise of the line of feed and that the path of looper rotation is fixed, it will be understood that the corresponding looper-detained loops will extend in different directions from the work to the looper. To compensate for the different angles of the looperdetained loops, the present axis of rotation of the looper is positioned lower, relatively to the throat-plate, than as conventionally located in prior chain-stitch machines employing loopers of the present type. This arrangement favors reentrance of the looper-detained loop by the looper after seizure of a subsequently presented needlethread loop. Furthermore, the extension-angle of the looper-detained loop is improved by the engagement. of the limbs of said loop by the guard-notch 88, which tends to determine a loop-position which is more nearly constant for the different paths of needle-reciprocation. Incidentally, the guard-notch 88 also aids in holding both limbs a, a of the looper-detained loop rearwardly of the needle-path.

The guard I9, which cooperates with the needle I4, likewise has a needle-receiving notch 87 and a loop-detaining notch 88, said guard having its shank 89 slidably mounted in a guideway 90 in the frame-lug 54 and retained in said guideway by a removable cover-plate 9|. The guard 19 has a depending roller 92 entering a camgroove 93 of a barrel cam 94 carried by the looper-shaft I5, whereby said guard T9] is intermittently reciprocated horizontally transversely of the line of seam formation. Access to the cover-plates 82 and 9| is afforded by the usual slide- plates 95 and 96 upon the cloth-plate '-I. 5

After a work-advancing movement of the feed- 1 dog 44, the main-piercer 26 is closely followed in its descending movement by the needles I3, I4,

main-piercer 26, to enter the work-aperture initially formed by the front piercer 32 and enlarged or shaped by said main-piercer. When the needles approach completion of their downstroke, they move slightly away from each other laterally into the spaced relation which said needles occupy in their subsequent loop-presenting position. This lateral movement of the needles is derived from the rotary cam 25, but is assisted, if necessary, by the divergent faces of the needle-guiding web II] below the throatplate.

The needle-guards I8 and 19, which are both dwelling in retracted positions during the beginning of said work-penetrating movement of the needles, are advanced toward the needles as the latter are approaching the lowest point of their downstroke, said needle-guards completing their advancing movement at substantially the bottom of the needle-movement to engage the needles and thereby to prevent fouling of the needles and loopers. The needles now rise into loop-presenting position, the rising movement of the needles being preceded by the rising movement of the piercer 26.

The beaks of the loopers enter the threadloops presented by the needles in their initial rising movement. In the continued rotation of. the loopers, said thread-loops are caught by the heels of the loopers and are detained in the looper-throats until they are again entered by the beaks of said loopers.

Immediately after the seizure of the threadloops'by the loopers, the needle-guards I8 and I9 are retracted by the cams 86 and 94, and the needles complete their rising movement. When the needles begin their succeeding descent they are moved farther apart into their more widely spaced relation, in which they now penetrate the work adjacent toand at opposite sides of the work-aperture previously entered. The main piercer 26 again descends in advance of the needles, said-needles being caused to'slightly approach each other as they complete their downward movement to assume their proper spaced relation for subsequently presenting loops to the loopers. The time of operation of the needle-guards I8 and I9 is, of course, the same as above described in connection with the descending movement of the needles in their more narrowly spaced relation. Consequently, should the needles lag in their approaching movement, as for instance by reason of close texture of the work, the notched portions 8'! and 81' of the needle-guards will engage and push the lagging needles into their proper positions with respect to the loopers. The limbs a a. and b, b of the loops previously formed and held spread by the loopers are engaged by the notches 88 and 88' of the advanced needle-guards I8 and I9, for the purposes hereinbefore described.

The needles I3, I4 complete their upstroke in their loop-presenting spaced relation and, in the beginning of their succeeding descent, said needles approach each other into their more nar- 7 arm,

rowly spaced relationto'againenter the workaperture immediately after thethird entrance of. said aperture by the ,main-piercer 26. The

needle-guards function ,as before described, while the needles again separate slightly preparatory to rising into loopresenting positions 7 thereof. The ;feed dog: 44 remains ineffective during the above. describedthree work-penetrating movements of theneedles, but during the ,cornpletion of the third rising 'moven ent and the beginning of i the subsequent descending movement of the needles in their narrowly spaced relation, the feed-dog 44 is raised and functions to advance the work, preparatory to a'repetition of the above described three-stitch cycle. The seams formed by the respective needles correspond substantially with the singlethreadchainstitch seam disclosed in' the U. S. patent to A. H. i

DeVoe, No. 1,920,784, Aug.-1, 1933. a V Referring now moreparticularly to the threadcontrolling devices upon the machine bracketthe needle-threads are intermittently drawn from a suitable thread-supply (not shown) by a thread pulloff. mechanism comprising a threadpull-ofi rod 9]. vibrated in apath between i the spaced members of anlinverted U-shaped guide-post 98, secured upon the bracket-arm 3 at the rear side thereof andprovided with suit- I ripheral flange .Illl .said'bush ing' being adjustably secured by a lock nut I02, Seatedwithin the bushing 100 is a supporting sleeve I03 pro.-

' vided, intermediate its ends, with a peripheral fiange I04 in engagement withthe front face. of the bushing-flange I-0I.; The sleeve I03 is secured to thebushing I100, for turning adjustment therein, by a set-screw IIJi'n-said sleeve havin a v V forwardly extending post 106 threaded upon its springIH functioning toimpose a frictionaldrag outer end to receivefan adjusting nut I01.

outer end thereoL-is a slot I08 terminating at itsqinner -;end in a post-aperture I I18 .communie cating with the interior of thesleeve I03 Embracing the post ,IIIG'are tension-disks I09 and 1 III, between which is disposed a threadseparating disk II I. Mounted upon thepost I 06,

sion-release ,disk H2 anchoredagainst rotation by having a central web -I I2 thereof disposed within the posteslot I08 The tension-disks .199, III}, and they intermediate disk'III are also restrained against rotation, and by a pin II3 extending forwardly from the sleeve-flange I04 through suitable peripheral notchesin said disks. interposed between the adjusting nut I0! and the tension-release disk I I2 is the usual beehive upon the threads passed. betwee nflthe tensiondisks I09, I III, at 'opposite sides offthe separating-disk III. I I l Endwise slidable" i I tension-release pinI I;5 provided, within the bushing ,IOII, with anjannular shoulder IIfi engaged by one end of ,a eoil spring jfi bearingagainst the inner end of the sleeve I03. 'The inner end re Pi I ex nd eueathefiu hin in suitably tinied relation with. re-

Extending longitudinally of the postIIOB, fromthe adjacent to the outer tension-disk 10.9, is a ten.- I

ithin lithe sleeve I03 is a lQQSifZl-YO. v

intoposition for'engagement by an eccentric or,

cam I I8 carriedby the main-shaft 5; The opposite end of the pin H5 is reduced to enter the post-slot Ill 8 for engagement with'the releasedisk web -I.I2 A light spring, I I9 is interposed between the tension-release disk I I2 and the tension-disk IIlSto exert a minimum tension upon the threads when the-maximum tension is released. by movement of the release-disk II2 into ineffectiveposition, under the action of the eccen tric LIB. The maximumtension timing may be varied by adjustment or the bushing I99 in .the

bracket-arm 3, thesleeve I03 andits securing set-screw I05 providing for correcting the posi-;'

tion of the tension-disk anchoring-pin H3, after adjustment of the bushing I00, so that said pin II3 will not obstruct or divert the threads.

Inasmuch as the release-pin H5 acts directly upon therelease-disk lI2,,the maximum tension is substantially instantaneously released and applied, theminimum tension imposed bythe spring II9 remaining constant, regardless of the maxi-' mum-pressure adjustment. of the spring H4. r

The threads are suitablydirected from the guide-post 98'to the intermittent tension device above described and then to the usual threadtensions 120 before passing to the slack-thread controller I2I. From said slack-thread controller, the threads are led through take-up threadeyes I22, carried by the needle-bar, to an auxil iary s1ackcontrolling. device, the respective needles.

iReferring more particularly to Fig"? of the drawings, the auxiliary slackethread controller. 7 35:

referred to comprises a supporting post I23 suitably mounted upon the front side of the bracket arm head '4. Embracing the post 523 are two pairs of tension-disks'IM and I25, between which,

pairs of tension-disks is interposed'a coil-spring j 126 embracing the post I23.

' spring I26 is limited by the hubs/of cup-shaped The action of the guard-members I2] "and I28 partly embracing the respective pairs of tension-disks. 'The guardmember I27 may be fixedly secured upon the post I23, as by solderor otherwisa while the guardmember I28 'is preferably removably secured by a screw I29 threaded into the. end of the post I23, The post I 23 is provided with a slot I30 extending from one pair-of tension-disks to the other, access to said slot being provided by a threading-slit I3I in the post midway of the length-of the slot I30. 7 i

7 One of the needle-threads is passed between the" disks ,|24,-the inner of said disks yielding laterally to a pull uponthe thread to introduce the 7 thread, through the slit I3I, into the slot I 33. The other thread is introduced'into said slot I30 in the'same ,mannereto' pass the thread between the tension-disks I25. The pairs of tensiondisks I24 and I25 impose a mild tension uponthe threads, suflicient to properly control said threads between the take-up I22 and the needles.

The intermittent tension device is eifective to apply its .maximum frictional drag upon the threads, during the period of each stitch-forming cycle beginning just before seizure of the needle-thread loops by the loopers and ending imbefore passing to mediately prior to the setting of the previously formed stitches, the final setting of the stitches being effected by the rotating loopers and occurring as the needles begin their descent.

During the rising movement of the needles, the take-up eyes carried by the needle-bar serve to pull up theloops of thread cast 01f by the 'loopers, 7

and it is to insure this loop-pulling-up action that the maximumtension of the intermittent tension-device is applied at this time. When the eyes of the rising needles are passing through the work, sufficient friction may be imposed upon the threads by the work to prevent or retard, momentarily, the drawing of the threads through the needle-eyes by the take-up. The slack-thread controller accommodates this condition by yielding to the pull upon the threads.

The intermittent tension-device changes its frictional drag upon the threads from maximum to minimum practically instantaneously as the needles are ending their up-stroke, so that a minimum tension may be applied during the final setting ofthe stitches, thereby to avoid thread breakage. The frictional drag of the threads upon the loopers is sufficient to effect setting of the stitches, regardless of the fact that very little drag is imposed at this time upon the threads by the tension-devices. The minimum tension remains effective until the needles have completed their descent.

While the pull-off rod happens, in the present case, to be effective upon the threads during the time that the maximum tension is applied by the intermittent tension-device, this particular time of operation of the pull-off is merely incidental and is not essential tothe successful operation of the machine. In fact, it is the frictional drag imposedupon the threads by the member of the guide-post remote from the thread-supply which insures pulling the threads from the supply side of the pull-off rod.

It is to be understood that in certain of its aspects, the present invention is not limited to two-needle sewing machines generally or to chain-stitch hemst' ching machines in particular, as certain features of the invention are obviously adapted for use in single-needle sewing machines whether adapted to form lock-stitches or to form chain-stitches.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is:

1. Ina sewing machine, a thread-carrying needle having laterally spaced work-penetrating movements followed by lateral movements into a substantially constant loop-presenting position, means for actuating said needle, a rotary looper complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches, said looper having a loop-seizing beak and a loop-detaining wing constructed and arranged to enchain loops of thread presented to said looper by said needle, and means for rotating said looper.

2. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, an endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle having lateral movements for penetrating the work in spaced paths and lateral movements into a substantially constant loop-presenting position, means for actuating said needle, a rotarylooper provided with a loop-seizing beak having a path of rotation in a plane between the work-penetration paths of said needle, said looper being constructed and arranged to enchain loops of thread presented to said looper by said needle, and means for rotating said looper.

3. In a sewing machine, a thread-carrying needle, actuating mechanism for imparting endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory movements to said needle, a rotary looper complemental to said needle in the formation of chainstitches and provided with a beak having a fixed path of rotation in a plane transverse to the plane of needle vibration, said looper having its axis of rotation offset laterally from said plane of needle-vibration, and means for rotating said looper.

4, In a sewing machine, work-feeding mechanism, a thread-carrying needle, means for vertically reciprocating said needle a plurality of 7 times for one eflective work-advancing movement of said feeding mechanism, means for vibrating said needle laterally in a plane extending crosswise of the line of feed, a rotary looper complemental to said needle in the formation of chain-stitches, said looper having a path of rotation about a horizontal axis extending transversely of said line .of feed and disposed rearvward of the plane of needle-vibration, and means a fixed loop-seizing path of movement in the direction of seam formation, and said loop-detaining' throat being disposed rearward of the plane of needle-vibration in the loop-seizing position of said looper-beak, and means for rotating said looper.

6. In a sewing machine, a reciprocatory threadcarrying needle, means for reciprocating said" needle, a rotary looper having a needle-thread loop seizingpath of movement at one side of said needle, means for rotating said looper, a needle-guard movable toward and from the needle-path of reciprocation at the looper side of. said needle, and means for actuating said needleguard relatively to said looper.

'7. In a sewing machine, a throat-plate, a reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, means for reciprocating said needle, a looper having a needle-thread-loop seizing path of movement at one side of said needle, means for actuating said looper, a needle-guard having a constant needleguiding posiiton at the looper-path side of said needle and between said looper-path and said throat-plate, and means for actuating said needle-guard to and from said constant needleguidlng position during each complete needle reciprocation.

8. In a sewing machine, a reciprocatory thread: carrying needle, means for reciprocating said needle, a rotary looper complemental to said needle in'the formation of stitches, means for rotating said looper, a needle-guard movable to and from a constant needle-guiding position in a direction substantially parallel to the axis of rotation of said looper, and means for actuating said needle-guard to and from said constant needle-guiding position during each complete needle reciprocation.

, 9. In a sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a horizontal-axis rotary looper complemental to said needle in the formation of stitches, a horizontally reciprocatory needle-guard movable to and from a constant needle-guiding position, and means for reciprocating said needle-guard to and from said constant needle-guiding position during each complete needle reciprocation.

10. In a. sewing machine, a work-feeding mechanism, a vertically reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a rotary looper complemental to said needle in the formation of stitches and rotatable about a horizontal axis extending transversely of the line of feed, a needle-guard reciprocable toward and from s'aidnee'dle in a horizontal path substantiallyparallel to the looper-axis-of r'otation, and means for reciprocating saidheedleguard.

11. In a sewing machine, a thread carrying needle, actuating mechanism forimpar'tingendwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory movements to said needle,-a looper 'compl'em'entalj to said needle in the formation of stitches and having-a1needle-thread-loop seizing path of, movement at one side of said needle, a needle-guard movable to and from an effective needle-guiding ating said needle-guard. I

dle-guard movableinto an effective n'eedle 'guiding position in advanceof-the seizure of needle,

thread loops by said looper, and means for -actu.

I 13. In a sewingmachine, work-'feedingl mechanism, a reciprocatory thread-carrying-needle, actuating mechanism for imparting lateral vibratory' movementsto said needle in a direction substantially transverse to the line of seam-:for- "mation, a horizontal-axis rotary looper comple-1 mental to said needle in the formation of stitches and having a fixed needleethread-loop seizing path of movement at oneiside of said needle, means for rotating'said loopenz'a heedle guard movable to and from'a-i'constant needleguiding position at the looper pathside of'said needle, and "means 'for actuatingfisaid needleguard to and from said constant needle guiding position during each complete needle. reciprocation, thereby to insure in successive stitches a substantially constant relative position, of. the needle and looper at thetiniepf seizure of the needle-thread loops.

' 14. In a sewing machine, 'work-Ieedingmecb anism, a vertically reciprocatorythreadcarrying needle, means for vibrating saidneedle' cross- 1 wise of the line of feed, a looper cornplemental to Said needle in the formationoi" stitches and having a fixed loop-seizing path of'movementiat one side of said needle, a'needle gua'rd having-an effective needle-guiding position at the looperpath side of said needle, and'meansfor'reciproeating said needle-guard,transverselyof said line of feed to and from effective needle-guidihgpositionQ r 15. In asewing machine, 'a-work-support a reciprocatory thread-carrying needle,-a"'looper having a needle-thread-loop seizingpath of movement at one side of said needle, means for laterally vibrating said needle .below said worksupport across the path of loop-seizing movement'of said looper, aneedle-guard movable relatively to said needle and looper to back up the needle during its lateral movement across said looper-path, and means for actuating said neetile-guard. l I I 1 j 7 '16. In a chain-stitch 'sewingmac-hine, workfeeding mechanism, anendwise reciprocatory thread-carrying, needle, having lateral 'movements' for penetrating the'work in spaced paths and lateral movementsinto a substantially con- "gteavro V 'stant loop-presenting position, means for actuating said needle, a rotary. looper complemental to said needle in the'formation of chain-stitches and rotatable abouta horizontal axis extending transversely of the line of feed, saidlooper hay-' ing a loop-seizing beak and a loop-detaining wing constructed and arranged to enchain loops of thread presented to said looper by said needle,

means for rotating said looper, and a needle- 7 1'7. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, an'endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle havthread-loop guard adapted to engage and control i0 7 thread-loops'held' detained by said looper.

ing lateral movements for penetrating the work in spaced paths and lateral movements into a substantially constant loop-presenting position,

means for actuating said needle, a rotary looper I Y "having its path of rotation transverse to thepath of lateral movement of said needle, said looper having a loop-seizing beak and a loop-detaining- Wing constructed and arranged to enchain loops of thread presented to said looper by said needle,

means iorerotating said looper, a needle-thread loop guard movable relatively to said looper for engaging and controlling thread-loops held detained by'said looper, and

means for actuating "said loop-guard.

18. In a chain-stitch sewing machine, an {endwise reciprocatory thread-carrying needle having laterally spaced work-penetrating movements and lateral movements into a substantially constant loop-presenting position, means for actuating said needle, a rotary looper having its path of rotationin a plane transverse tofthe path of lateral movement of said needle, saidlooper being constructed and arranged to'enchain-loops' of thread presented to said looper by said needle,

, means for rotating said looper, a needle-and-loop guard providedgwith a 'thread loop receiving notch for engaging and controlling thread-loops 5 held detained bysaid looper, and means for moving said guard to and from efiective needle:guiding and loop-controlling position. I

19. In asewing machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory, threadcarrying needles, needle-actuating mechanism 7 including means for vibrating said needles laterally in directions toward and from each other, and mechanism complemental'to said'needles in *the formation of chain-stitchesincluding a pair of' rotary loopers cooperating with the respective needles at the'relatively remote sides thereof in the seizure of needle-thread loops.

20. In a sewingv machine, a pair of endwise reciprocatoryand laterally vibratorythread-car rying' needles, needle-actuating mechanism ineluding means for vibrating said needles laterally in directions toward and from" each other, rotary loopers cooperating with the respectiveneefdles at the relatively remote sides thereof in the 'formation of chain-stitches, said loopers having fixed paths of rotation in parallel planes trans-, verse to the lateral movements of said needles,

and means for rotating said' loopers.

21. In a sewing machine,,work-feeding mechanism, a pair'of vertically reciprocatoryand laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles, needleactuating mechanism including meansforv vibrating said needleslaterally indirections toward and fromeach'other, a pair of horizontal-axis rotary loopers having loop-seizing beaks cooperating mote sides thereof in the formation of chain stitches, means for rotating said: loopers," a work-.

with the respective needles at therelatively repenetrating piercer disposed between said needles, and means for reciprocating said piercer.

22. In a sewing machine, work-feeding means, a pair of endwise reciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the line of feed, means for relatively vibrating said needles laterally in a plane transverse to the line of feed, horizontal-axis rotary loopers cooperating with the respective needles at the relatively remote sides thereof in the formation of chain-stitches, alined loopercarrying shafts having their axes of rotation disposed rearwardly of the plane of needle-vibration, and means for rotating said shafts.

23. In a sewing machine, work-feeding means, a pair of vertically reciprocatory and laterally vi bratory thread-carrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the line of feed, needle-actuating mechanism including means for laterally vibrating said needles transversely of the line of feed, a pair of rotary loopers cooperating with the respective needles at the relatively remote sides thereof in the formation of chain-stitches, said loopers having fixed paths of rotation about horizontal axes transverse to said line of feed, and means for rotating said loopers.

24. In a sewing machine, work-feeding means, a pair of vertically reciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the line of feed, means for laterally vibrating said needles transversely of the line of feed, rotary loopers cooperating with the respective needles at the relatively remote sides thereof in the formation of chain-stitches, horizontally disposed and alined rotary shafts carrying said loopers, a looper actuating shaft having driving connections with the looper carrying shafts, and means for rotating said looper actuating shaft.

25. In a sewing machine, work-feeding means, a pair .of vertically reciprocatory and laterally vibratory needles arranged abreast with respect to the line of feed, means for laterally vibrating said needles transversely of the line of feed, rotary loopers having fixed paths of rotation and cooperating with the respective needles at the relatively remote sides thereof in the formation of chain-stitches, horizontally disposed and alined rotary shafts carrying said loopers, means for l rotating the looper carrying shafts, needle-guards cooperating with the respective needles at the relatively remote sides thereof, and means for moving said needle-guards to and from effective needle-guiding positions.

26. In a hemstitching machine, work-feedin means, a pair of vertically reciprocatory and latpiercer-slot connecting said needle-apertures, the

upper edge of said guard-plate rearwardly of said piercer aperture being depressed below the upper face of said throat-plate to thereby provide clearance for the cross-bars of the hemstitchseam.

27. In a hemstitching machine, work-feeding means, a pair of vertically reciprocatory and laterally vibratory thread-carrying needles arranged abreast with respect to the line of feed, means for relatively vibrating said needles in directions toward and from each other, loop-taking means complemental to said needles in the formation of stitches, a reciprocatory work-penetrating main piercer disposed between said needles, an auxiliary work-penetrating piercer disposed in front of said main piercer in the line of seam formation, and a throat-plate provided with adjacent needleapertures and with piercer-apertures arranged in the line of feed, the Work-supporting face of said throat plate having a work-clearance groove connecting said piercer apertures.

28. A throat-plate for hemstitching machines provided with adjacent needle-apertures and with mainand auxiliary-piercer apertures, said throat-plate having its upper face provided with a work clearance groove connecting said piercer-'- apertures.

29. A throat-plate for hemstitching machines provided with adjacent needle-apertures and with a piercer-aperture connecting the front ends of said needle-apertures, the upper face of said throat-plate between said needle-apertures being depressed to incline upwardly from said piercer-aperture.

30. A throat-plate provided with adjacent elongated needle-apertures and with a needlethread-loop guard-plate depending from the under side of said throat-plate, said guard-plate having a needle-aperture separating portion cut away to provide a needle-aperture connecting piercer-slot terminating at its lower end in opposed and downwardly divergent needle-guiding faces.

SYDNEY ZONIS.

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