US2060085A - Machine for operating on shoe uppers - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 10, 1936 B. JORGENSEN MACHINE FOR OPERATING ON SHOE UPPERS 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Nov. 21, 1955' AWE/Wm? aawM Nqv. 10, 1936 B. JORGENSEN 2,060,085

MACHINE FOR OPERATING ON SHOE UPPERS Filed Nov. 21, 1935 3 Shee ts-Sheet 2 NOV. .10, 1936. JORGENSEN 2060,0855

MACHINE FOR OPERATING ON SHOE UPPERS Filed Nov. 21, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented Nov. 10, 1936 MACHINE FOR OPERATING ON SHOE UPPEBS Bernhardt Jorgensen, Marblehead, Masa, assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J., a corporation of New Jersey Application November 21, 1935, Serial No. 50,887

33 Claims.

This invention relates to machines for operating on shoe uppers, and is herein illustrated as applied to a machine for lasting the toe ends of shoes. In the manufacture of shoes of that type in which the margin of the upper is lasted over an insole in generally parallel relation to the bottom of the last, if an adhesive is used to secure the upper to the insole, it is customary to remove at the toe end'by a trimming operation the surplus margin of some of the layers of the upper materials, usually of the toe box and the lining, so that the margin of the outer layer of the materials will lie, at least for the most part, next to the insole. It is an object of the present invention to provide means for quickly and accurately performing such a trimming operation. as applied to an automatic lasting machine of the samegeneral character as disclosed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,980,435, granted on November 13, 1934 upon an application of C. F. Pm and A. F. Pym, but so modified as to dispense with the use of upper-fastening tacks. It is to be understood, however, that in various novel aspects the invention is not limited to an organization of that character.

With the above and other objects in view, themachine herein shown is provided with a cutter movable heightwise of the last to trim the margin of all but the outer layer of the upper materials around the toe end of the last, combined with'upper-pulling means which conforms the upper materials to the contour of the toe end of the last and positions them in proper relation around the toe end of the last with the marginal portion of the outer layer separate from the other layers, and. supported on this toe gripper is a spring-operated cutter which is automatically released to render it operative at an adjustably predetermined time in the upper-pulling movement of the gripper so that the cut will be made in the desired relation to the edge of the insole. Preferably the timeof operation of the cutter is so determined that only about an eighth of an inch, for example, of the toe box and the lining will overlap the bottom face of the insole after the lasting operation. As furtherherein illustrated, the toe gripper continues its movement after the operation of the cutter, with a The invention is herein illustrated further pulling effect on the outer layer of the upper materials the margin of which, however, slips partially out of the gripper jaws, and after the pull the margin of the outer layer is wiped inwardly over the insole by lasting wipers. 5

The novel features of the invention, including various novel details of construction and combinations of parts, will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying drawings and thereafter pointed out in the claims. 0

In the drawings,

Fig. 1 is a view partly in side elevation and partly in section of a portion of a machine organization of the character disclosed in the abovementioned Letters Patent with features of the 5 present invention embodied therein;

Fig. 2 shows the top of the forepart of a shoe and the toe and side grippers of the machine as viewed in the direction of the arrow A in Fig. 1,

- with the grippers gripping the margin of the up- 20 per materia1s;'

Fig. 3 shows a portion of the mechanism for operating the toe gripper as viewed in the direction of the arrow B in Fig. 1, with parts broken away; 25

Fig. 4 is a view of the toe gripper and the trimming mechanism as viewed in the direction of the arrow C in Fig. 1, with parts broken away;

Fig. 5 is a section on the line V--V of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a portion of the 30 trimming mechanism; and

Figs. '7, 8, 9, and 10 are views illustrating the positions of various parts at different times in the operation of the machine.

Since the novel features of the invention are, 35 as previously stated, herein illustrated as embodied in a machine organization such as fully shown and described in the above-mentioned Letters Patent, only such parts of the machine as it is necessary to refer to for an understanding of 40 the invention are shown in the drawings and will be hereinafter described. The assembled shoe and last are positioned and supported in the correct 'relation to the operating instrumentalities by this particular character. For pulling the upper over the last at each side of the forepart, there 55 are provided two side grippers I 8 and I2 arranged to grip and pull the upper respectively in alocation substantially at the tip line, if the shoe is provided with a toe tip, and in a location substantially at the ball of the shoe. The construction of these grippers and of the mechanisms whereby they are operated to grip and to pull the upper may be the same as disclosed in the previously mentioned Letters Patent and therefore need not be described in detail, the upper-pulling movements being imparted to the two side grippers shown in Fig. l by a lever l4 a portion of which is shown in dotted lines and which corresponds to the lever 8l8 shown in said Letters Patent. For pulling the toe end of the upper the machine herein shown has a single gripper instead of the three grippers of the prior disclosure, and for purposes of the present invention this gripper is so constructed as to clamp the marginal portion of the outer layer of the upper materials outspread around the toe end of the last in a plane substantially parallel to the bottom of the forepart of the last and to clamp the marginal portions of the other layers of the upper materials, comprising, for example, the lining and the toe box, similarly outspread in a plane parallel to the clamped margin of the outer layer. For this purpose the toe gripper comprises an intermediate flat Jaw l8 (Figs. 4 and 5), an upper jaw is arranged to cooperate with the upper face of the Jaw I 8 to clamp the margin of the outer layer of the upper materials, and a lower jaw 28 arranged to cooperate with the lower face of the jaw iii to clamp the margins of the other layers of the materials. The intermediate jaw I8 is provided with two depending pins 22 slidingly mounted in bearings in the lower jaw 20 and having lower end portions of reduced diameter slidingly mounted in lugs 24 formed on a gripper casing 28, one of these lugs being shown in Figs. '7, 8 and 9. The lower Jaw 28 is formed as part of a slide 28 mounted for rectilinear upward and downward movements in the casing 28. The upper jaw i8 has a depending shank portion 88 pivotally mounted on a pin 32 on the upper end of the casing 28 and provided with a roll 34 normally in engagement with a face 38 on the slide 28 with the jaw i8 in open position, the jaw being held normally in this position by a spring 38 coiled about the pin 32. The slide 28 is further provided with a cam face 48 which, by engagement with the roll 34, swings the jaw i8 into position to clamp the outer layer of the upper materials against the jaw IS in response to upward movement of the slide 28. As the slide is thus moved upwardly it also carries the jaw 28 into position to clamp the other layers of the upper materials against the intermediate jaw l8.

When the jaws are in open positions the portions of the pins 22 which are of larger diameter rest at their lower ends on the lugs 24, as shown in Fig. 1, and in the closing of the jaws the intermediate jaw I8 is carried more or less upwardly in a straight path toward the swinging jaw i8 by the action of the jaw 28 in pressing the upper materials against the Jaw l8, as will be evident from the relation of the pins 22 to the lugs 24 in Fig. 7. It will thus be seen that the pressures of the jaws on the several layers of the upper materials are substantially equalized. When the jaws are in gripping or clamping positions the roll 34 is engaged by another face 42 formed on the slide 28 in parallel relation to the face 38, as illustrated in Fig. 7. All the jaws preferably have smooth. upper-clamping faces, as shown, and during the pull the upper materials may slip more or less between the jaws so as to be partially withdrawn from the jaws.

The mechanism for operating the slide 28 to close the jaws on the upper materials, while embodying features disclosed in the above-mentioned Letters Patent, is actually constructed in accordance with the somewhat different disclosure of Letters Patent No. 2,039,448, granted on May 5, 1936 upon an application of Arthur F. Pym. For imparting upward movement to the slide 28.to close the Jaws there is provided in the casing 28 another slide 44 which is held from turning in the casing by a key 48. Between this slide and the slide 28 is a spring 48 which bears at its upper end on a washer 58 in engagement with a shoulder formed on a sleeve 82 which is threaded on the reduced lower end of the slide 28. Extending upwardly from the slide 44 through the spring 48 and into a recess in the lower end of the slide 28 is a stem 84 which carries a pin 68 extending into a slot 58 in the lower end of the slide 28. This pin serves to transmit downward movement to the slide 28 from the slide 44 in the opening of the gripper jaws. The pin 58 and the slot 88 are so arranged that the spring 48 is maintained initially under some compression.

Upward movement is imparted to the slide 44 to close the Jaws yieldingly through the spring 48 by a member 88 which for that purpose is rotatable in the casing 28 about an axis extending lengthwise of the gripper, the upper end of this member being formed to provide a spiral track 82 in engagement with a complementally formed spiral track on the lower end of the. slide 44. It will be understood that these spiral tracks act as cooperating cam faces whereby the slide 44 is forced upwardly by turning movement of the member 60 in one direction. To assist in imparting downward movement to the slide 44 when the member 88 is turned in the opposite direction, there is secured in a recess in this member a stem 64 which extends upwardly into a recess in the slide 44, this stem having therein a spiral groove 68 parallel to the spiral track 62. Extending into this groove is a pin 88 carried by the slide 44. It will be understood that the groove 86 and the pin 68 cooperate with the spiral tracks in forcing the slide 44 upwardly to close the jaws and are effective to impart downward movement to the slide 44 in the opening of the jaws.

The member 60 has a diametrically enlarged portion 18 which lies in an enlarged bore in the casing 28 to hold the member against upward movement relatively to the casing, and below this enlarged portion is a washer l2 seated against the lower end of the casing 26 and confined by a cap 14 threaded on the lower end of the casing. This cap serves also to confine a roller bearing 16 for the member 68 and for a stem 18 extending downwardly from this member. The stem 18 is connected by a universal joint 88 to a shaft 82 which is rotatable to close and open the gripper jaws. The shaft 82 extends downwardly through a bearing in the frame which is of greater diameter than the shaft and carries two sleeve members 84 of the same diameter as the bearing to assist in guiding the shaft in its turning movements and in lengthwise movements thereof to operate the gripper. Between the two sleeve members 84 there is formed on the shaft 82 an elongated pinion 88 engaged by a pinion 88 whereby the shaft is turned to close and open the gripper jaws. The mechanism for operating the pinion 88 is not herein shown in detail, since it is the same as disclosed in the previously mentioned Letters Patent No. 1,980,435. Lengthwise downward movement of the shaft 82 for operating the gripper to pull the upper is eifected by a forked lever 80 operated also by mechanism of the same character as disclosed in the lastmentioned Letters Patent, this lever being connected by a two-armed link 82 (Fig. 8) to pins 94 mounted in a bar 88 which, through ball bearings 08, is connected to the lower end of the shaft 82 and one of the sleeves 84 on the shaft. In imparting downward upper-pulling movement to the shaft 82 the bar 88 acts through one of.

the ball bearings on a collar I fast on the lower end of the shaft, and in imparting reverse upward movement to the shaft the bar acts through the other ball bearing on the lower end of the sleeve 84.

The toe gripper is guided in its downward and upward movements by two plates I02 engaging opposite sides of the gripper casing 28 and having flanges which extend into grooves I04 in the casing, substantially as disclosed in the previously mentioned Letters Patent No. 1,980,435. These two plates are pivotally connected by studs I08, Fig. 4) to the two arms of a forked member I08 having a cylindrical shank portion IIO (Fig. l) slidingly mounted in a bearing in the frame to permit swinging movements of the toe gripper in directions lengthwise of the last. A spring II2 connected to the member I08 tends to move the member in one direction and holds it normally in a-position adjustably determined by a screw II4 which is threaded in the frame and has a conically shaped end engaging the outer end of the shank portion N0 of the member I08.

Extending downwardly from the lower toe gripper Jaw 20 are two rods II8 which are secured to the Jaw at their upper ends. At their lower ends the rods H8 are slidingly mounted in thimbles II8 which are threaded in a bracket I20 fast on the gripper casing 28. The two rods II8 serve as guides for a block I22 on the upper face of which is secured by a bolt I24 and dowel pins I26 a trimming cutter I28. The upper edge of this cutter is in a plane parallel to the plane of the lower face of the intermediate gripper jaw I8 which is provided with a brass insert I30 opposite the edge of the cutter to cooperate with the latter in trimming the margin of the layers of the upper materials clamped between the jaws I8 and 20. The cutter I28 is so shaped that its edge is curved in substantially parallel relation to the curvature of the edge of the'insole around the end of the toe and is flared outwardly at the sides of the toe so as to sever completely from the remainder of the upper materials the surplus margin of the layers on which the cutter operates. The operation of the cutter occurs at a predetermined time in the upper-pulling movement of the toe gripper after a substantial pull has been applied to all the layers of the upper materials, but prior to the completion of the upper-pulling movement, through the operation of mechanism which will now be described.

. Upper-trimming movement is imparted to the cutter I28 by two springs I32 mounted on the rods H8 and held under compression between the block I22 and the thimbles II8, these thimbles being adjustable to vary the amount of compresslon of the springs. Normally the block I22 and the cutter I28 are held in a depressed position,

as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, by a latch I84 in engagement with a hook member I88 secured to the block I22. The latch I34 is pivotally mounted at its lower end on a pin I88 supported in two upwardly extending ears of the bracket I20 which is secured as above described to the gripper casing 28. A leaf spring I40 fast on the bracket I20 holds the latch yieldingly in operative position. Also mounted to swing on the pin I88 is an arm I42 (Fig. 6) provided with an ear I in which is loosely swiveled a spindle I48, a portion of the spindle being threaded in the latch 84. The spindle I48 is held against lengthwise movement relatively to the ear I44 the other side of the ear. At its upper end the arm I42 carries a roll I52 which at a predetermined time in the upper-pulling movement of the gripper is engaged by a cam face I84 formed on one of the gripper-guiding plates I02. the action of this cam face on the roll the arm I42 and the latch I84 connected thereto are swung to disconnect the latch from the hook member I80, thus releasing the cutter I28 to the action of the springs I82 which force it upwardly and trim the upper materials in the manner hereinbefore described. By turning the spindle I40 the arm I42 may be swung relatively to the latch I84 in such manner as to vary the time in the upper-pulling movement of the gripper when the cam face I54 becomes effective to release the cutter. This serves to vary the relat-ion of the cut to the edge of the insole so as to determine how far, if at all, the trimmed layers will overlap the bottom of the insole. The

cutter is returned into position to be held by er end of the slide I58 engages the rod I58 and the slide and the block I22 are then held stationary by the rod as the gripper continues its upward movement and carries the latch I34 into position to connect with the hook member I88. In the operative movement of the gripper .the slide I moves with it so that the angularly shaped lower end of the slide is carried away from the rod I58 to permit the operative movement of the cutter when the latter is released by the latch I34.

After the operation of the cutter I28 as above described, the toe gripper continues its down ward movement to carry its laws below the plane of the forepart of the shoe bottom, and in such continued movement it imparts a further pull to the outer layer of the upper materials, the margin of which, however, may slip more or less between the smooth faces of the jaws which grip margin of the outer layer .of the upper materials and as much of the other layers as may project beyond the edge of the insole around the toe inwardly over the insole, as illustrated in Fig. 10. The wipers I 62 may, as shown, be of suflicient lengths to wipe the upper materials inwardly over the insole also along the sides of the forepart as far rearwardly as the ball of the shoe. The mechanisms for operating the toe band I66 and the wipers I62 are not shown herein, in view of the complete disclosure of such mechanisms in the last-mentioned Letters Patent. The shoe is supported against upward pressure of the wipers thereon by a holder I64 (Fig. 10) controlled and operated also as disclosed in said Letters Patent. Since the upper materials are fastened to the insole by adhesive, the tack-driving mechanism and the tacksupplying mechanism of the prior machine are omitted. Corresponding, however, substantially in location to the tack block of that machine is a block I66 having 9. depending stem detachably connected by a. screw I61 to a rod I68 (Fig. 1) movable upwardly and downwardly in a guideway in the frame, the block I66 having opposite side portions arranged to extend upwardly at the sides of the shoe support member 6 for engagement with the margin of the insole along the sides of the forepart to insure that the margin of the insole will be positoned close to the bottom of the last prior to the inward movements of the wipers I62. The lower end of the rod I68 is connected by a link I10 to a lever I I2 which is operated in the same manner as the corresponding lever 802 for controlling the tack block in the machine disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,980,435. The block I66 is pressed upwardly against the insole after the upper-pulling operation, as shown in Fig. 9, and is then moved downwardly away from the insole to provide room for the wipers I62. After these wipers have wiped the margin of the upper inwardly over the insole the block I 66 is again moved upwardly and by engagement with these wipers (Fig. 10) assists in pressing them more forcibly against the shoe bottom, similarly to the disclosure of said Letters Patent.

It will be understood that before a shoe is presented to the machine a suitable adhesive will have been applied thereto for securing the forepart of the upper to the insole. Such adhesive may be applied, for example, to the margin of the insole and to the different layers of the upper materials, except that preferably no adhesive will be applied around the toe end to the marginal portion of the lining and the toe box to be severed by the cutter I28. In presenting the shoe to the machine, after mounting it on the pins 2, the operator arranges the margin of the upper materials in proper relation to the jaws of the toe gripper, with the margin of the outer layer of the materials outspread upon the top of the intermediate jaw I6 and the margin of the other layers between the jaws I6 and 20. If the machine is equipped with means such as disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,980,435 for closing the toe gripper on the upper prior to the start,- ing of the power operation of the machine, the operator may then cause the toe gripper jaws to close and grip the different layers of the upper materials before arranging the margin of the materials in proper relation to the jaws of the side grippers I0 and I2 and then starting the machine. Alternatively, or if the machine is not equipped with means of that character for controlling the toe gripper. the operator will arrange the upper materials in proper relation to all the gripper jaws, which will close automatically upon the starting of the machine. After the starting of the machine the upper is pulled by all the grippers, and the machine then comes to a stop with the grippers holding the upper under tension to permit any adjustments which may be necessary. At a predetermined time in the upper-pulling movement of the toe gripper, depending upon the adjustment of the cam roll I52 relatively to the cam face I54, the cutter I28 is released by the latch I34 and is impelled upwardly by the springs I32 to sever the surplus margin of the layers of upper materials pulled by the cooperating jaws I6 and 26. This trimming operation will take place, for example, when the parts are positioned as shown in Fig. 8. Thereafter the toe gripper continues its downward movement to make room for the toe band I60 and the wipers I62 in their operation on the shoe, and thus applies a further pull to the outer layer. of the upper materials, which will slip more or less between the gripping jaws I6 and I8, as illustrated in Fig. 9. Before starting the machine the second time the operator moves the shoe holder I64 into engagement with the shoe, as fully disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,980,435, and upon the starting of the machine this shoe holder is pressed down more firmly against the shoe. The toe band I60 is then applied in clamping relation to the upper materials around the toe (Fig. 9) and is moved downwardly to wipe the materials toward the edge of the insole. At approximately the same time the block I 66 is moved up to press the margin of the insole against the last along the sides of the forepart, as also illustrated in Fig. 9. The wipers I62 are thereafter advanced and closed to, wipe the marginal portion of the upper materials inwardly over the insole. As these wipers begin their wiping movements the several grippers are opened to release the upper and the block I66 is lowered to make way for the wipers. Substantially at the ends of the advancing and closing movements of the wipers I62 they are pressed more forcibly upward against the shoe bottom by the spring means disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,980,435, and their pressure on the overwiped margin of the upper materials is further increased by moving the block I66 up against their lower faces (Fig. 10). The marginal portion of the upper materials is thus pressed firmly into adhering relation to the insole. Thereafter the parts of the machine are returned to their starting positions and the operator removes the shoe from the pins 2. When the toe gripper jaws open the marginal upper materials severed by the cutter I 28 are released and may be removed by the operator from between the jaws I6 and 20.

While the trimming means is herein shown as applied to a machine which lasts the toe end of the shoe, it is to be understood that advantages with respect, for example, to the accuracy of the trimming, by reason of the conforming or shaping of the upper, materials to the toe end of the last preparatory to the operation of the cutter,

.tili

upper materials to the toe end of a last, and upper-trimming mechanism comprising a cutter arranged relatively to said conforming means tosever from the upper materials, by a cutdirected heightwise of the last and continuous all around the end of the toe, the surplus margin of less than the total number of layers of the materials.

2. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, means for conforming to the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials including a toe box and a lining located between the last and an outer layer of the materials, and uppertrimming mechanism comprising a cutter ar-- ranged relatively tosaid conforming means to sever from the upper materials, by a cut directed heightwise of the last and continuous all around the end of the toe, the surplus margin oi the toe box and the lining while leaving the outer layer oi the materials intact.

3. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, means for conforming a plurality of layers of upper materials to the toe end ofa last, uppertrimming mechanism comprising a cutter arranged relativeiy to said conforming means to trim, by a cut directed heightwise oi the last and extending around the end of the toe. the margins of all the layers of the upper materials except the outer layer while the several layers are held in conformity to the last, and means for laying the margin of the toe end of the outer layer of the materials inwardly over an insole on the last after the trimming operation.

4. In a power-operated machine for operating on shoe uppers, power-operated means for conforming a plurality of layers of upper ma= terials to the toe and of a last, and upper-trimmillg mechanism movable in automatically determined time relation to said conforming means to sever from the upper materials around the end of the toe the surplus margin of less than the total number of .layers of the materials.

5. In a power-operated machine for operating on shoe uppers, power-operated means for conforming to the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials including a toe box and a lining located between the last and an outer layer of the materials, upper-trimming mechanism comprising a cutter movable in automatically determined time relation to said conforming means to sever from the upper materials around the end of the toe the surplus marginof the toe box and the lining, and means for laying the margin of the outer layer of the upper materials inwardly over an insole on the last after the trimming operation.

6; In a'machine for operating on shoe uppers, means for conforming upper materials to the toe end of a last; a cutter for trimming the margin of said materials, spring means for operating said cutter, and mechanism for releasing said spring means to effect the operation of the cutter.

7. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, means for conforming a plurality of layers of upper materials to the toe end of a last, aspringimpelled cutter movable to sever from the upper materials around the end of the toe the surplus margin of less than the total number of layers of the materials, and means for releasing said cutter to render it operative.

8. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, means for conforming a plurality of layers of upper materialsto the toe end of a last with their marginal portions outspread in substan-' tially parallel relation to the bottom of the forepart of the last, and upper-trimming mechanism comprising a cutter movableheightwise of the last to sever from the upper materials around the end of the toe the surplus outspread margin of less than the total number of layers of the materials.

9. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, means for conforming a. plurality oi layers of upper materials to the toe end of a last with their marginal portions outspread in substantially parallel relation to the bottom of the forepart of the last, a cutter movable heightwise of the last to sever from the upper materials around the end of the toe the surplus outspread margin of less than the total number of layers of the materials, spring means for operating said cutter, and mechanism for releasing said spring means to effect the operation of the cutter.

' 10. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, means for conforming to the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials including a toe box and a lining located between the last and an. outer layer of the materials and for clamping the marginal portions of said layers outspread around the toe, upper-trimming mechanism comprising a cutter movable helghtwise of' the last tosever from the upper materials around the end of the toe the surplus outspread margin of the toe box and the lining while leaving the margin of the outer layer of the materials intact, and wiping means movable thereafter to wipe the margin of the outer layer of theupper materials inwardly over an insole {on the last.

11. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, members arranged to clamp the margin of upper materials between them around the toe end of a last exteriorly of the edge of the last bottom, and a cutter movable heightwise of the last to trim said clamped margin by a cut extending continuously all around the end of the toe.

12. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, members arranged to clamp between them the margin of less than the total number of layers of upper materials at the toe end of a last and to position the clamped margin relatively to the edge of an insole on the last, and a cutter arranged to sever from the upper materials at a predetermined distance from the edge of the insole the surplus margin of the layer or layers thus clamped.

13. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, members arranged to clamp between them the margin of a toe box and a lining separately from an outer layer of the upper materials at the toe end of a last, and a cutter movable to sever the surplus clamped margin of said toe box and lining from the remainder of the upper materials while leaving the outer layer of the materials intact.

14. In a machinefor operating on shoe uppers, means for pulling over the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials including a toe box and a lining located between the last and an outer layer of the materials, and mechanism movable in automatically determined time relation to said upper-pulling means to trim the toe box and the lining while leaving the outer layer of the upper materials intact.

15. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, means for pulling over the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials while separately clamping the marginal portions of diflerent layers, and means for trimming the margin of one or more ofsaid clamped layers while leaving the margin of a separately clamped layer intact. 16. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers,

means for pulling over the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials while separately clamping the marginal portions of different layers outspread, and a cutter movable heightwise of the last to trim the margin of one or more of said layers while leaving the margin of a separately clamped layer intact.

17. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers,

a gripper movable to pull upper materials over' a last, a spring-operated cutter carried by said gripper fortrimming the margin of said upper materials, and means for rendering said cutter operative in response to the movement of the gripper.

18. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper movable to pull a plurality of layers of upper materials over the toe end of a last, a cutter movable to trim the margin of less than the total number of layers of the upper materials, and means for rendering said cutter operative in response to the movement of the gripper.

19. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper movable to pull a plurality of layers of upper materials over the toe end of a last, a cutter movable to trim the margin of less than the total number of layers of the upper materials, spring means for operating said cutter, and means controlled by the gripper for releasing said spring means to effect the operation of the cutter.

20. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper movable to pull a plurality of layers of upper materials over the toe end of a last, a cutter carried by said gripper for trimming the margin of less than the total number of layers of the upper materials, spring means for operating said cutter, a latch for holding the cutter normally retracted against the resistance of said spring means, and cam means arranged to act on said latch to release the cutter in response to the movement of the gripper.

21. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling a plurality of layers of upper materials at the toe end of a last heightwise of the last adjacent to the edge of an insole on the last, upper-trimming mechanism arranged to sever from the upper materials pulled by said gripper the surplus margin of one or more of said layers by a cut in predetermined relation to the edge of the insole while leaving the outer layer intact, and means for varying the r lation of said out to the edge of the insole.

22. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper movable to pull a plurality of layers of upper materials at the toe end of a last heightwise of the last, a cutter carried by said gripper and arranged to sever from the upper materials the surplus margin of one or more of said layers while leaving the outer layer intact, means for operating said cutter in predetermined time relation to the movement of the gripper prior to the completion of that movement, and means for varying the time in the movement of the gripper when the cutter is thus operated.

23. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling a plurality of layers of upper materials over the toe end of a last, said gripper having an intermediate jaw and other Jaws for clamping different layers of the upper materials respectively against opposite faces of the inter-.'

mediate jaw, and mechanism for trimming the margin of the layer clamped against one of said faces while leaving intact the layer clamped against the other face.

24. In amachine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling a plurality of layers of upper materials over the toe end of a last, said gripper having an intermediate jaw and other Jaws for clamping different layers oi the upper materials respectively against opposite faces of the intermediate jaw, and a cutter having a cutting edge arranged to act against one face of said intermediate Jaw to trim the margin of the layer of upper materials clamped against that face while leaving intact the margin clamped against the other face of the intermediate jaw.

25. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling over the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials including a toe box and a lining located between the last and an outer layer of the materials, said gripper having an intermediate Jaw, a second Jaw for clamping the margin of the outer layer of the upper materials outspread upon one face of the intermediate Jaw, and a third Jaw for clamping the margin of the toe box and lining outspread upon the other face of the intermediate Jaw, and a cutter movable heightwise of the last to trim the margin of the toe box and lining while leaving the margin of the outer layer of the upper materials intact.

26. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper movable to pull over the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials including a toe box and a lining located between the last and an outer layer of the materials, said gripper having an intermediate jaw, a second jaw for clamping the margin of the outer layer of the upper materials outspread upon one face of the intermediate jaw, and a third jaw for clamping the margin of the toe box and lining outspread upon the other face of the intermediate Jaw, a cutter movable to trim the margin of the toe box and lining, spring means for operating said cutter, and mechanism for releasing the cutter to the action of said spring means in response to the upper-pulling movement of the gripper. v

27. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper movable to pull over the toe end of a last a plurality of layers of upper materials including a toe box and a lining located between the last and an outer layer of the materials, a cutter movable to trim the margin of the toe box and the lining at a predetermined time in the upper-pulling movement of the gripper prior to the completion of that movement, and means for wiping the margin of the outer layer of the upper materials inwardly over an insole on the last after the pull.

28. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper movable to pull a plurality of layers of upper materials over the toe end of a last, mechanism automatically operative at a predetermined time in the upper-pulling movement of the gripper to sever from the upper materials around the end of the toe the surplus margin of one or more of the layers of the materials while leaving the margin of the outer layer intact, the gripper being thereafter further movable to pull the outer layer while permitting it to slip in the gripper Jaws, and means for wiping the margin of the outer layer inwardly over an insole on the last after the pull.

29. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling a plurality of layers of upper materials over the toe end of a last, said gripper having jaws for clamping the margins of the several layers of the upper materials outspread with the margin of the outer layer separate from the margins of the other layers, and mechanism automatically operative at a predetermined time in the upper-pulling operation to sever from the upper materials around the end of the toe the surplus margins of said other layers while leaving the margin of the outer layer intact.

30. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling a plurality of layers of upper materials over the toe end of a last, said gripper having an intermediate jaw and other jaws for clamping diiferent layers of the upper materials respectively against opposite sides of the intermediate jaw with the margins of the different layers around the toe outspread in substantially parallel relation to the bottom of the forepart of the last.

31. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling a plurality of layers of upper materials over a last, said gripper having an intermediate jaw and other jaws for clamping difierent layers of the upper materials respectively against opposite sides of the intermediate jaw, said other jaws being mounted respectively for rectilinear movement and for swinging movement toward the intermediate jaw.

32. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling a plurality of layers of upper materials over a last, said gripper having an intermediate jaw, a second jaw rectilinearly movable toward said intermediate jaw to clamp a layer of the upper materials, and a third jaw mounted for swinging movement toward the intermediate jaw to clamp another layer of the materials in response to the rectilinear movement of said second jaw.

33. In a machine for operating on shoe uppers, a gripper for pulling a plurality of layers of upper materials over a last, said gripper hav ing an intermediate jaw, a second jaw rectilinearly movable toward said intermediate jaw to clamp a layer of the upper materials, and a ierent layers of the upper materials.

BERNHARDT J ORG-EN SEN.

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