US2023547A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Description

A. F. PYM

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Dec. FIG, 1935.,

Filed Jan. 15, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet l m, 1935. A. F. PYM

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Jan. 15, 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 WW & Wm

Deco W, 1935. A. F. PYM

' MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Jan. 15, 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 //v VENTUR MM; P Ha -7 9M Patented Dec. 10, 1935 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Application January 15, 1935, Serial No. 1,927

16 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes, and more particularly to the lasting of uppers over insoles and to other operations performed after the lasting but before the outsoles are applied on the bottoms of the shoes. In some aspects the invention relates especially to the manner of temporarily fastening and holding uppers in lasted position in lasting, with an ad 10 hesive, shoes of a type in which the marginal portion of the upper between the insole and. the outsole lies throughout its width in generally parallel relation to the bottom of the last on which the shoe is made, the insole having on its bottom face no upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last; and the invention is herein illustrated by reference to operations performed at the toe end of a shoe of such a type, although it is to be understood that it is not limited to operations at the toe ends of shoes.

In lasting the toes of shoes of the above-mentioned type there is sometimes used, for securing the uppers in lasted position, an adhesive which is comparatively slow in setting or hardening, so that the uppers need to be held in lasted position for a substantial length of time by some extraneous means. Such an adhesive-for example, pyroxylin cementmay be applied to the shoe materials before or during the lasting operation, or the adhesive may be incorporated in a box toe stiffener included in the upper materials. For holding the upper under such conditions it has been a frequent practice to apply and fasten to the toe end of the shoe an upper-holding device which is portable with the shoe. The present invention provides a novel method whereby an upper may be thus temporarily fastened in a convenient and expeditious manner and by the use of holding means of a comparatively inexpensive character, and whereby also the removal of surplus upper materials over the end of the insole, which is frequently desirable after the lasting operation in order that the outsole when applied may lie close to the insole, is greatly facilitated. For the purpose in view, as herein illustrated, the marginal portion of the toe end of the upper is lasted over the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole and the remainder thereof is positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, as illustrated substantially perpendicular to the outer or bottom face of the insole, after which an upper-holding binder is applied to the upstanding portion of the upper and is fastened to the shoe. Preferably, as shown, such a binder comprises a wire of the kind commonly used to hold the toe ends of the uppers of welt shoes against a lip or rib on the insole, the binder being anchored at its ends to tacks driven into the shoe bottom. If desired, although not necessarily, other tacks or equivalent fastenings may be driven in such manner as to clamp other portions of the binder down upon the shoe bottom. To facilitate the positioning of a portion of the overlasted margin of the upper thus in upstanding relation to the 10 shoe bottom there is used, as further herein illustrated, an abutment adjacent to the insole against which this portion of the upper is pressed by the wipers of a lasting machine. preparatory to the application of the binder to the shoe. 1 Such an abutment may be a permanent part of the lasting machine, and accordingly after removal of the shoe from the machine, the binder positioned against the upstanding or upturned portion' of the upper is relied upon to hold the 20 upper in lasted position. Alternatively, as further herein illustrated, the abutment may be attached to the shoe and be portable with the shoe to cooperate with the binder in holding the upper, although it is contemplated that under most conditions the binder alone will be sufficient to hold the upper effectively, thus contributing to economy in lasting equipment.

It will be understood that after the adhesive has sufficiently hardened or set, the binder and the tacks or other fastenings which hold it will be removed from the shoe, and if an abutment portable with the shoe is used this also will be removed. The surplus margin of the upper materials may then be trimmed off, for example by use of a hand knife, this operation being greatly facilitated by reason of the fact that the portion to be removed is positioned in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom at a pronounced angle to that portion which is secured to the insole by the adhesive.

In a further novel aspect the invention contributes to improved results in the use of filler pieces of sheet material at the toe ends of shoes. It will be evident that when the toe end of the upper is lasted with a portion of its margin upstanding'and the upstanding portion is thereafter trimmed off as above described, the space to be filled at the toe end of the shoe inwardly of the trimmed edge of the upper is determined precisely by the abutment against which the upstanding portion was lasted. Accordingly it is contemplated that filler pieces will be provided which are cut to a pattern corresponding to the abutment used in lasting, and when such a filler the shoe after its removal fromthe machine with the binder attached; I

Fig. 3 is a similar view illustrating adifierent way of fastening the binder on the shoe;

Fig. 4 shows how the upstanding portion of the upper materials may be conveniently trimmed off by use of a hand knife after theremoval of the binder from the shoe;

Fig. 5 shows a filler piece formed to fill the space inwardly of the trimmed edge of the upper at the toe end of the shoe after the trimming operation;

Fig. 6 illustrates how the filler piece is applied to the shoe;

Fig. 7 is a perspective view illustrating, in the lasting of the toe end of a shoe, the alternative use of an abutment plate which is portable with the shoe, the toe being lasted in a machine of a difierent-form from that shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view illustrating more clearly how the portable abutment plate is attached to the shoe and last; and

Fig. 9 is a perspective view of the shoe after its removal from the machine, with the portable abutment plate and the bindery thereon.

The bed-lasting machine a portion of which is shown in Fig. 1 to illustrate the practice of the novel method is one of a well-known type char-- acteristic features of which are disclosed in detail, for example, in United States Letters Patent No.1,284,8'70, granted on November 12, 1918 upon an application of Matthias Brock, which may be referred to for further information as to the construction of the machine. It will be understood that the last and shoe, mounted on a jack at the heel end, are supported at the toe end by a toe rest l6, and that the upper materials around the toe end of the last are wiped heightwiseof the last and inwardly over an insole on the bottom of the last by toe-embracing wipers l2 which are raised and lowered by a treadle and are advanced and closed about the toe by a hand lever. There is also shown in Fig. 1 a toe band M for clamping the upper to the last exteriorly of the shoe bottom, although such a toe band may be and is often omitted. I

The drawings illustrate the practice of the method in the lasting of the toe portion of a shoe which has already been lasted along its shank and ball portions substantially as far forwardly as the toe-end portion, the upper being secured to the insole along the shank portion by staples s and along the ball portion by an adhesive. It is to be understood, however, that the utility of the invention is not dependent upon previous treatment of the shoe in this particular manner nor, in fact, upon the previous lasting of the shoe rearwardly of the toe-end portion. As shown most clearly in Fig. 8, the insole of the type of shoe illustrated has on its bottom face no upper-attaching shoulder or projection, extend- -holddown for the shoe.

ing heightwise of the last, against which the upper is lasted, the portion of the upper which engages the insole lying parallel to the bottom of the last to receive an outsole applied in direct contact therewith at a later stage in the manufacture of the shoe.

In the practice of the method in the manner illustrated in Fig. 1 there is utilized in the lasting machine an abutment plate 16 arranged to engage the bottom face of the toe end of the insole over the toe rest Ill and to serve, in part, as a This abutment plate has a shoulder iii of a contour similar to the contour of the edge of the insole around the end and along the sides of the toe, but is of such size and may be so positioned on the insole that the shoulder I8 is spaced from the edge of the insole a distance considerably less than the width of the lasting -margin of the upper, i. e., the marginal portion of the upper to be lasted inwardly over the insole. As shown, although not necessarily, the shoulder 13 extends heightwise of the last in substantially perpendicular relation to the bottom of the last. Theplate I6 is mounted for universal tipping movements on the ball-shaped lower end of a stud 20 secured 'in the forward end of a holddown arm 22 which is mounted for lengthwise sliding movements in a' holder 25. The holder 24 is mounted and controlled substantially as disclosed in Letters Patent No; 1,120,822, granted on December 15, 1914 upon an application of E. L. Keys. That is, the holder 24 is mounted to turn on a vertical rod 26 to carry the plate I6 from an idle position to a position over the bottom of the shoe, and by means not herein shown, but fully disclosed in the last-mentioned Letters Patent, the rod 26 may be forced downwardly by a treadle to press the plate i6 upon the insole and may be locked to hold the plate in operative position. To facilitate the positioning of the plate IS in the proper relation to the edge of the insole the arm 22 may be moved forwardly or rearwardly in the holder 26 by use of .a hand lever 28 which is pivotally supported on the arm 22 and has a pinand-slot connection with the holder.

It will be understood that after the shoe has been mounted in the machine the operator swings the plate l6 to a position over the toe end of the shoe by movement of the holder 24 about the rod 25 and by the treadle connected to the rod lowers the plate into contact with the insole, positioning the plate with its shoulder l8 as nearly equidistant from the edge of the insole at the end and both sides of the toe as can be readily determined. The rod 26 is then looked, as above suggested, to hold the plate pressed upon the insole. The operator then proceeds to last the toe end the shoe. i

In the toe-lasting operation it is customary to raise the toe wipers l2 one or more times with the edges of the wipers in wiping engagement with the upper around the toe so as to wipe the upper materials smoothly over the last to the edge of the insole, after which the wipers are advanced and closed one or more times to wipe the marginallportion of the upper materials inwardly over the insole. In the lasting of toes with an adhesive it is sometimes the practice, after wiping the upper materials preliminarily inward over the insole, to retract the wipers and to trim oh" the margin of all the layers of the materials except the outer layer, including the lining and the toe box, approximately to the edge of the insole, and this may be done in the practice of the present method if desired, although it is contemplated that preferably all the different layers will be lasted over the insole, which the present invention renders it entirely practicable to do by reason of its provision for accurate trimming of the margin of the upper materials after lasting and for accurate filling of the space over the insole inwardly of the trimmed edges to provide an even seat for the outsole. The time when an adhesive is applied, or when an adhesive already applied or incorporated in one or more of the layers of upper materials is activated, as by a solvent, may vary, although in operating in accordance with the usual practice such an adhesive will be applied or will be activated immediately before the marginal portion of the upper materials is wiped into final lasted position. In this overwiping operation, the marginal portion of the upper (the term upper being used as inclusive of whatever layers are lasted over the insole) is positioned by the wipers in parallel relation to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole,

i. e., as far inwardly as the shoulder [8 of the abutment plate it, and the remainder of the marginal portion is positioned by the wipers in upstanding relation to the bottom of the shoe with its inner face against the shoulder I8, the wipers forming a crease between this upstanding portion and the portion which lies parallel to the last bottom. As the wipers press the upper inwardly against the shoulder 18, the plate It, if

it has not been previously positioned equidistant from the edge of the insole all around the toe, may be shifted slightly by pressure of the wipers against it, as permitted by the movability of the arm 22 and the holder 24.

After having thus wiped the upper over the insole and against the plate IS, the operator relaxes the pressure of the wipers on the upper sufficiently to permit binder wire to be drawn inwardly under the wipers against the upstanding portion of the upper in substantially the same manner as binder wire is applied in lasting the toe of a welt shoe, one end of the wire being anchored to the shoe by twisting it around an anchor tack t driven into the shoe bottom'at one side of the forepart. After pulling the binder wire against the upstanding portion of the upper around the toe, and it may be also pressing it more firmly against the upper by use of the wipers, the operator twists it about another anchor tack t driven in the opposite side of the shoe bottom and cuts it near the tack, thus leaving a binder b fastened to the shoe. Either immediately thereafter, or after lasting the heel end of the shoe if this end is to be lasted in the same machine, the operator retracts the wipers, releases the plate it and swings it to its idle position, and then removes the shoe from the machine and sets it aside to await the drying or hardening of the adhesive. By reference to Fig. 2 it will be seen that during this interval the binder 2) holds the upper in lasted position, in so far as such action may be necessary in addition to the holding effect of the adhesive, by its engagement with the upstanding portion of the upper. The binder holds the upper effectively not only because its ends are fastened to the anchor tacks, but also because of the fact that in so far as there is any tendency for the upper to pull out from under the binder there is a corresponding tendency to force the binder closer to the insole by reason of the frictional action of the upstanding portion of the upper on the binder in a downward direction. If, however, the conditions render it desirable, in addition to the anchor tacks t other tacks t (Fig. 3) may be driven into the shoe bottom at the outer side of the binder in such manner as to clamp the binder down upon the shoe bottom by their heads. This may be done,'for example, by use of a hand tacker after the toe wipers have been partially retracted to make room for the nozzle of the tacker. After the adhesive has suficiently dried or hardened the binder and whatever tacks are used will be removed from the shoe. The upstanding margin of the upper may then be conveniently trimmed off, for example by use of a hand knife 30 (Fig. 4), substantially flush with the portion which is secured adhesively to the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last.

It will be evident that after the above-described trimming operation the edge of the portion of the upper which lies over the insole around the toe presents a contour corresponding to the contour of the abutment plate it against which the upper was lasted, so that the space over the toe end of the insole inwardly of the trimmed edge of the upper may be completely filled by use of a filler piece of sheet material cut to a pattern corresponding to the abutment plate. It is accordingly contemplated that filler pieces cut to such a pattern will be provided, one such filler piece 32 being shown in Fig. 5, and such a filler piece will be applied to the toe end of each shoe in the manner illustrated in Fig. 6. This provides an even surface across the toe end of the shoe bottom to receive the outsole. A plastic filler may be used where required along other portions of the shoe bottom.

If conditions should render it desirable to support the upstanding portion of the margin of the upper on its inner face after the shoe leaves the lasting machine, there may be used, in place of the abutment plate iii, a plate 34 (Figs. 7, 8, and 9) which is readily detachable from the machine and is portable with the shoe. While such a portable plate may be attached or fastened to the last and shoe in various ways, it is herein shown as provided with three pins 36 arranged to project through holes in the insole into sockets formed in metal bushings 38 in the last, substantially as disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,674,060, granted on June 19, 1928 upon an application of mine. While a bed-lasting machine of the type shown in Fig. 1 may be readily adapted for use with such a portable plate, Fig. 7 illustrates its use in conjunction with a toe-lasting machine of the character disclosed in Letters Patent No. 1,674,059, granted upon another application of mine on June 19, 1928. Such a machine has toe wipersdfl which are advanced and closed by a hand lever and are raised and lowered by a treadle, a fixed holddown arm 42 arranged to project overv the bottom of the shoe, and a treadle-operated toe rest 44 arranged to cooperate with the holddown arm to clamp and hold the shoe. The plate 34, as shown, is further provided with upwardly extending pins d6 arranged to enter holes provided in the holddown arm d2. It will thus be seen that since the relation of the plate 3'3 to the holddown arm is determined by the pins 46 and since the relation of the last and shoe to the plate is determined by the pins 3%, the shoe is positioned and held in exactly the right relation to the toe Wipers in accordance with the method of the above-mentioned Letters Patent No. 1,674,060. In the use of this equipment the toe-lasting operation is performed in substantially the same way as hereinbefore described with reference to Fig. 1, and after the binder b has been applied .and the binder b and its fastening tacks are removed from the shoe, and thereafter the upstanding portion of the margin of the upper'is trimmed off as hereinbefore described.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lasting operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole with an adhesive between the upper and the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, thereafter applying a binder to the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper in lasted position and fastening the binder to the shoe, and after the adhesive has set removing the binder from the shoe.

2. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lasting operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole with an adhesive between the upper and the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, maintaining the upper in lasted position by a wire binder applied about the upstanding portion of the upper and secured by fastenings penetrating the shoe bottom, and after the adhesive has set removing the binder and said fastenings from the shoe.

3. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lasting operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, applying a wire binder about the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper in lasted position and securing the binder by fastenings driven into the shoe bottom near the ends of the binder and by additional fastenings so applied as to clamp other portions of the binder down upon the shoe bottom, and later removing the binder and said fastenings from the shoe.

4. -That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of anendof an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is free'fro'many upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lasting :operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole parallel to '5 the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole with'an adhesive between the upper and the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginal'portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, Io thereafter applying a binder to the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper in lasted position and fastening the binder to the shoe, setting the shoe aside with said binder fastened to it, and after the adhesive hasset rel5 moving the binder and trimming the upstanding portion of the upper substantially flush with the portion which lies parallel to the last bottom.

5. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal'por- 20' tion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the'lasting operation securing said marginal portion'of 25 the upper adhesively to the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edg'e of the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe 30' 6. That improvement in methods of making '40 shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the la'st- 4:5 ing operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last and securing it adhesively to the insole for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against an abutment adjacent to the insole, thereafter applying a binder to the outer face of the upstanding portion of the 55 upper for holding the upper in lasted position and fastening the binder to the shoe, and after the adhesive has set removing the binderl'from the shoe.

7. That improvement in methods of making 60 shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which isfre'e from any upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the 65 lasting operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole and positioning the remainder of said 70 marginal portion in upstanding relation tothe shoe bottom with its inner face against an abutment adjacent to the insole, applying a binder to the outer face of the upstanding'portion of the upper for holding the upper in lasted -posi- 75 tion, thereafter separating the shoe and said abutment while leaving the binder in upper-holding position, and later removing the binder from the shoe.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting th marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is free from any upper-attaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lasting operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole parallel to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole with an adhesive between the upper and the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against an abutment attached to the shoe adjacent to the insole, thereafter applying a binder to the outer face of the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper in lasted position, setting the shoe aside with the binder and abutment attached thereto, and after the adhesive has set removing the binder and abutment from the shoe.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying to the bottom face of an insole on a last an abutment having thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of the insole, lasting the shoe upper over the bottom face of the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last from the edge of the insoleas far inwardly as said shoulder and pressing a portion of the upper against said shoulder in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom, applying an upper-holding binder to said upstanding portion of the upper in a location opposite said shoulder and fastening the binder to the shoe, thereafter separating the shoe and said abutment while leaving the binder in upper-holding position, and at a later stage in the manufacture of the shoe removing the binder and trimming the upstanding portion of the upper substantially flush with the portion which lies parallel to the last bottom.

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying to the bottom face of an end of an insole on a last an abutment having thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of the insole around the end of the shoe bottom,

lasting the marginal portion of the shoe upper over the bottom face of the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last from the edge of the insole as far inwardly as said shoulder and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion of the upper in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against said shoulder, applying a wire binder to the upstanding portion of the upper in a location opposite said shoulder for holding the upper in lasted position and securing the binder to the shoe by fastenings penetrating the shoe bottom, thereafter separating the shoe and said abutment whileleaving the binder in upperholding position, and later removing the binder and its fastenings from the shoe.

11. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying to the bottom face of an end of an insole on a last an abutment having thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of the insole around the end of the shoe bottom, lasting the marginal portion of the shoe upper over the bottom face of the insole and in the lasting operation securing said marginal portion of the upper adhesively to the insole from the edge of the insole as far inwardly as said shoulder and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against said shoulder, applying a Wire binder about the upstanding portion of the upper in a location opposite said shoulder and securing the binder to the shoe by fastenings penetrating the shoe bottom, separating the shoe and said abutment while leaving the binder in upper-holding position, and after the adhesive has set removing the binder and its fastenings from the shoe and trimming the upstanding portion of the upper substantially flush with the portion which is secured adhesively to the insole.

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in attaching to a shoe and last an abutment overlying an end of an insole on the last and having thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of the insole around the end of the shoe bottom, lasting the marginal portion of the shoe upper over the bottom face of the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last from the edge of the insole as far inwardly as said shoulder and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion of the upper in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against said shoulder, applying a inder about the upstanding portion of the upper in a location opposite said shoulder for holding the upper in lasted position, fastening said binder to the shoe by anchor tacks near its ends and also by other tacks so driven as to clamp it upon the upper by their heads, setting the shoe aside with said binder and abutment attached thereto, and later removing the binder and abutment from the shoe.

13. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in attaching to a shoe and last an abutment overlying an end of an insole on the last and having thereon a shoulder spaced from the edge of the insole around the end of the shoe bottom, lasting the marginal portion of the shoe upper over the bottom face or" the insole and in the lasting operation securing said marginal portion of the upper adhesively to the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last from the edge of the insole as far inwardly .as said shoulder and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against said shoulder, applying a binder about the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper in lasted position and securing the binder by fastenings penetrating the shoe bottom, setting the shoe aside with the binder and abutment attached thereto, and after the adhesive has set removing the binder and abutment from the shoe and trimming the upstanding portion of the upper substantially flush with the portion which is secured adhesively to the insole.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in applying to a shoe and last an abutment overlying an end of an insole on the last and having projections extending through the insole into sockets in the last to position the abutment in predetermined relation to the last, positioning the shoe in a lasting machine in predetermined relation to lasting instrumentalities through said abutment, lasting the marginal portion of an end of the shoe upper over the bottom face of the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last from the edge of the insole inwardly as far as said abutment and positioning the remainder of said marginal po t of the uppe in upstandin elat on to the shoe bottom with its inner face against abutment, applying a binder about the upstanding portion of the upper for holding the upper in lasted position, removing the shoe from the lasting machine with said binder and abutment attached thereto, and later removing the binder and abutment from the shoe. V

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists in lasting the marginal portion of an end of an upper on a last inwardly over an insole the outer face of which is free from any upperrattaching shoulder or projection extending heightwise of the last and in the lasting operation positioning said marginal portion of the upper upon the outer face of the insole in parallel relation to the bottom of the last for a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the insole and positioning the remainder of said marginal portion in upstanding relation to the shoe bottom with its inner face against an abutment curved similarly to the edge of the insole, thereafter trimming off the upstanding portion of the upper, providing a filler piece patterned to correspond to said abutment, and applying said filler piece to the insole inwardly of the trimmed edge of the upper.

1 Th t rov m nt n m t ds o makin shoes which consists in lastin the marginalpgrtion of an, n f n upper o e a tnwardly over an insole the outer face of which. iii-tee from any up t a u er o n oie ,tion extending heightwise of the last and in -the plying a binder about the upstanding portion of l! the upper for holding the upper in lasted position and fastening the binder to the shoe, after the adhesive has set removing the binder and trimming the upstanding portion of the upper substantially flush with the portion which is secured adhesively to the insole, .providing a filler piece patterned to correspond to said abutment, and applying said filler piece to the insoleinwardly of the trimmed edge of the upper.

ARTHUR F. PYM.

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