US20220266112A1

US20220266112A1 - Climbing hold

Info

Publication number: US20220266112A1
Application number: US17/676,060
Authority: US
Inventors: Peter WHITTAKER; Mark Richardson; Thomas Randall; Andrew Cherry
Original assignee: Wide Boyz Ltd
Current assignee: Wide Boyz Ltd
Priority date: 2021-02-21
Filing date: 2022-02-18
Publication date: 2022-08-25
Also published as: GB2606263A; GB2606263B; GB202202203D0

Abstract

A crack climbing unit is provided and comprises a body having an inwardly facing jamming surface. The surface is provided with a compliant liner.

Description

The present invention relates generally to climbing and particularly, although not exclusively, to climbing holds for climbing walls.
Climbing walls are artificial structures originally built to enable rock climbers to train and continue climbing through the wet and cold winter months or in areas where outdoor climbing was difficult to access. More recently climbing walls have become extremely popular and used as a recreational physical activity and as a competitive sport.
Climbing walls are often provided with climbing holds— shaped grips which can be attached to a wall and arranged in a path (known as a “route”). A variety of types of grips are known, including jugs, slopers, pockets, pinches and edges. Volumes are a large type of hold upon which other holds can be mounted. Volumes are often formed as hollow plywood or resin holds (for example triangular or rounded).
Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack. Fundamental to crack climbing is “jamming”. Jamming means inserting a finger hand, foot or limb into a crack and expanding or torquing them to create a secure hold.
Jamming can be difficult, but it is often the only way to climb a crack. With practice, however, technique can improve.
An aspect of the present invention provides a crack climbing system comprising separate first and second parts each including an inner jamming surface, the parts are arrangeable with the inner jamming surface opposed to define a desired crack width.
The crack climbing system of the present invention can be used as part of a climbing wall structure (indoor or outdoor) and to produce a climbing route including one or more crack holds. Multiple parts could, for example, be placed together to form a longer crack.
The first and/or second part may be formed from a fibreglass material.
The first and/or second part may be formed from wood.
Jamming can be painful and this can be off-putting.
In some embodiments the jamming surface is compliant. For example the jamming surface may be provided with a deformable covering.
The deformable covering may be formed separately from and may be attachable to the jamming surface.
The covering may be bonded to the part. Alternatively the covering may be removably attachable to the part.
In some embodiments the deformable covering is textured. For example the deformable covering may provide an undulating inner jamming surface.
Below are some details and characteristics of some materials that could be used to mould into a desired “soft grip” material, which could, for example, be formed as a wave shape.
The letters and number afterwards represent the hardness of softness of each material. the higher the number the harder the material, and the lower the number the softer the material. Some embodiments could for example, have EPDM 80 which would be quite hard, or the same material, EPDM, at 30 which would be much softer.
1. EPDM—90, 80, 70, 60, 50, 40, 30
2. Shore Natural—Z90, Z80, Z70, Z60, Z50, Z40, Z30
3. Shore Neoprene—C90 C80, C70, C60, C50, C40, C30
4. Shore Polyurethane Poly—95, 85, 75, 65, 55, 45, 35
Crack volumes with different hardnesses and softnesses may be provided depending on how the volumes will be used and by who.
Examples of uses and characteristics:

‘Harder’ Soft Grip:

- used by more experienced climbers who want to replicate something closer to rock but still have comfort
- used in horizontal climbing (if soft grip is too soft on horizontal jamming, it can make the climbing more difficult)
- used if the customer is going to use Crack Gloves or Tape on their hands to protect themselves
- used when more difficult jamming moves want to be incorporated in boulder problems or routes. on difficult moves it's important that there isn't too much ‘give’ in the soft grip as this will disrupt the move they are trying to make
- used in finger sized cracks; the grip needs to be harder in finger cracks as if there is too much give in the soft grip the fingers can slide straight through

‘Softer’ Soft Grip:

- used by beginner climbers as it is more comfortable and friendly as they learn the techniques
- used on lower angled terrain as you can put more weight on the feet, so the ‘give’ in the soft grip becomes less of a problem for the hands
- used if the customer is not going to use tape or crack gloves on their hands. A soft material will not hurt the hand as much.
- used in competition climbing, where its important that competitors do not start bleeding through jamming
- used when ‘give’ in the jam, is less detrimental i.e. when hand jamming. Hand jamming has a lot of range of expansion so a bit of give does not affect the quality so much, whereas ‘give’ in a finger jam will make the whole jam slip through the crack.

Hold parts (e.g. halves) may comprise a base part and a liner/covering part (which may be formed from different materials). The liner may be attached e.g. by bonding to the base. In some embodiments, for example a liner material is bonded to an underlying fibreglass base using a compatible glue/adhesive.
The parts may comprise a generally flat jamming surface and an inclined back.
The parts may include a flange for fixing to a climbing wall (e.g. using screw fixings).
Each part may comprise an end cap. For example separate end caps may be provided. The end caps may be sloping.
The present invention also provides a two-piece adjustable crack climbing system comprising separate first and second parts each including an inner jamming surface, the parts are arrangeable with the inner jamming surface opposed to define a crack width.
The present invention also provides a preformed crack climbing hold comprising a moulded fibreglass body and a moulded soft grip bonded onto the body.
The present invention also provides a crack climbing unit comprising a body having an inwardly facing jamming surface, the surface being provided with a compliant liner.
The body may, for example, be formed from fibreglass. Other embodiments may be formed, for example, from wood, metal, or plastics material.
The unit may be generally wedge shape in section.
The unit may comprise a fixing flange.
The liner may comprise a rippled or corrugated inner face.
A further aspect provides a climbing crack system comprising: one or more central sections, the or each central section comprising separate first and second central parts each including an inner jamming surface, the central parts are arrangeable with the inner jamming surface opposed; a first end cap section comprising separate first and second end cap parts each including an inner jamming surface; and a second end cap section comprising separate first and second end cap parts each including an inner jamming surface.
The present invention also provides a climbing wall provided with a system or hold as described herein.
The present invention also provides a liner for a crack hold, the liner being compliant and having a generally undulating jamming surface.
The surface may be textured. The surface may be corrugated/rippled.
The liner may be formed separately from, and be attachable to, a hold e.g. by bonding.
Also provided is a crack climbing plate which is fixed or fixable to a crack volume and comprises or can receive a sheet of compliant material. The plate may, for example comprise a frame with fixing holes.
The present invention also provides a crack hold having a liner or plate as described herein.
Different aspects and embodiments of the invention may be used separately or together.
Further particular and preferred aspects of the present invention are set out in the accompanying independent and dependent claims. Features of the dependent claims may be combined with the features of the independent claims as appropriate, and in combination other than those explicitly set out in the claims. Each aspect can be carried out independently of the other aspects or in combination with one or more of the other aspects.

The present invention will now be more particularly described, by way of example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIGS. 1 to 4 show a simple, lightweight, two-piece adjustable crack system;

FIGS. 5 to 8 illustrate a crack hold formed according to a further embodiment;

FIG. 9 illustrates an exploded view of a hold;

FIG. 10 illustrates the option to mix holds and/or hold halves with and without soft grip;

FIGS. 11 to 14 illustrate a hold formed in accordance with a further embodiment.

FIGS. 15 to 18 show “jam plates” formed in accordance with the present invention.

FIG. 19 illustrates a sheet of soft grip material for one or more frames;

FIG. 20 shows a middle volume unit formed according to a further embodiment;

FIG. 21 shows an end cap unit 650 formed according to a further embodiment;

FIGS. 23 and 24 show a finger lock unit embodiment;

FIGS. 25 and 26 show an end cap suitable for use with the finger lock of FIGS. 23 and 24.

FIG. 27A shows a crack volume system comprising volume units that can be used separately, singularly or together.

FIG. 27B shows a left unit of a crack volume system;

FIG. 27C shows a right unit of a crack volume system;

FIG. 27D show a centre unit of a crack volume system; and

FIG. 27E shows a crack volume system with a fibreglass body and soft grip inner.

The example embodiments are described in sufficient detail to enable those of ordinary skill in the art to embody and implement the systems and processes herein described. It is important to understand that embodiments can be provided in many alternative forms and should not be construed as limited to the examples set forth herein.
Accordingly, while embodiments can be modified in various ways and take on various alternative forms, specific embodiments thereof are shown in the drawings and described in detail below as examples. There is no intent to limit to the particular forms disclosed. On the contrary, all modifications, equivalents, and alternatives falling within the scope of the appended claims should be included. Elements of the example embodiments are consistently denoted by the same reference numerals throughout the drawings and detailed description where appropriate.
Unless otherwise defined, all terms (including technical and scientific terms) used herein are to be interpreted as is customary in the art. It will be further understood that terms in common usage should also be interpreted as is customary in the relevant art and not in an idealised or overly formal sense unless expressly so defined herein.
In the following description, all orientational terms, such as upper, lower, radially and axially, are used in relation to the drawings and should not be interpreted as limiting on the invention.
FIGS. 1 to 4 show a simple, lightweight, two-piece adjustable crack system 10, suitable for home use or training areas within climbing gyms. The two units 15, 20 can be used separately or together. Each unit has an inside jamming surface 16, 21.
It can, for example, be used as a single unit for crack specific exercises and dialling in technique or multiple units can be added together to do full boulder problems and circuits.
In this embodiment the product comes in a flat packed style which is easily assembled and installed by the user.
In this embodiment a pack is provided and contains:
2×crack trainer halves (24 Screw cups, 48 screws, 2 Base Plates, 4 Uprights, 2 Crack Walls, 4 End Caps, 2 Gripper Bars).
1×Glue
1×Assembly instruction card
1×Training card
Example Dimensions—Length 800 mm×height 180 mm×width 115 mm
In this embodiment the wood is cut on a CNC machine.
All edges and features aside from the crack are rounded for comfort and can be held, stood on and used as other options, to help diversify the climbing and make exercises harder or easier.
The jamming area is plain wood, for example plywood, which provides a slick jamming feel.
The crack trainer apparatus has two halves which can be set at a desired width.
Below are some example widths:
1-1.5 inch=thin hand size
1.5-2 inch=tight hand size
2-2.5 inch=hand size
2.5-3.5 inch=baggy and cupped hand size
3.5-4 inch=first size
4-5 inch=stacked hand size
The crack trainer apparatus can be used for all abilities, from those just starting out wanting to purely practice technique, to those who have been jamming for years, but want to do some jam specific training exercises.
FIGS. 5 to 8 illustrate a crack hold formed according to a further embodiment.
The crack hold is similar to the hold of FIGS. 1 to 4. In this embodiment, however, a soft grip liner/covering 130 is provided and can be installed onto the inside jamming surface within the assembly process, plus easily removed/replaced at a later date if worn. In this embodiment a 1.5 m length of soft grip material is provided.
An exploded view of the hold is shown in FIG. 9.
The soft grip material provides a grippy and comfortable crack feel. This option is good for endurance and power endurance workouts, as well as working on technique.
The soft grip 130 has a pre-adhesive backer in this embodiment.
It is possible to mix holds and/or hold halves with and without soft grip, as illustrated in FIG. 10.
Having both options lets the user tailor their training and climbing sessions to the intensity required, enabling them to dial in technique and get stronger quicker.
FIGS. 11 to 14 illustrate a hold formed in accordance with a further embodiment.
FIG. 11 shows a unit 215, which in this embodiment is formed as a moulded crack module. In this embodiment the unit is formed from a fibreglass material (e.g. polyethylene or polyurethane based).
The unit is designed with one flat (e.g. generally vertical and/or at approximately orthogonal to an underlying wall) face 216 that can be used to jam against. The unit has an angled back 217—an approximately 45 degree (for example) slope off the backside of the jamming edge. A longitudinal flange 218 a, 218 b is provided along each side.
There is a rounded top edge 219 of the crack module (for comfort).
In this embodiment the top edge of the crack has rough texture built into the mould to provide friction. All other fibreglass areas are smooth to prevent gaining friction, forcing people to jam.
The unit has flat ends so they can be stacked together to form a longer crack. Top and bottom edges may be left free to enable stacking. Different shapes may be produced, for example embodiments which have tapered ends.
Flanges are provided for fixing to the wall on the outside and inside edges of the volumes. Screw fixings may be used for wall attachment.
The fibreglass unit may be made in a mould and bought as a whole unit.
Two separate units can be used make up a crack, a left and a right.
Two separate end caps can be used to make up sloping crack ends: a left 240 (FIG. 12); and right 250 (FIG. 13).
The hold can, for example, be used on a climbing wall structure, home or commercial. It could be used as a jamming crack or a single unit (like a normal climbing volume would be).
The crack can be set at any maximum width; this is down to the route setter.
In this embodiment a minimum width is determined by the inside flange protruding from the crack face.
FIG. 14 shows a soft grip material sheet 360 formed in accordance with the present invention. An upper (inner jamming) surface is provided with laterally extending corrugations 361.
In this embodiment the material is moulded into a required shape and texture.
A specific glue may be used for bonding soft grip to a fibreglass unit, for example.
In this embodiment the soft grip is provided with a 3D pattern designed to grip the hand. A moulded wave pattern is provided; in this embodiment measured so depth and length coincides with the knuckles and fingertips of climbers hands. Texture on the soft grip helps provide friction.
The soft grip can be inset into the volume to help protect from wear.
The soft grip material could be used as a separate product i.e. someone could potentially buy it and use it in their own cracks.
Soft Grip Pro (SGP) inner jamming surface. SGP is a material specifically shaped and designed for a more comfortable jamming experience. The density is soft to prevent pressure wounds and finely textured to give grip whilst climbing yet won't burn or rip your hands if slipping. The surface is ergonomically shaped to fit the climber's knuckles and fingers in all the different jamming positions. SGP enables the climber to climb freely without having to use tape or gloves.
FIGS. 15 to 18 show “jam plates” formed in accordance with the present invention.
FIG. 15 shows a 22 degree jam plate 465. Detail A shows a 2 mm deep counterbore that would accommodate a screw cup/washer. Section B-B Shows a solid piece of material throughout the plate.
The plates comprise generally rectangular frames with fixing holes so that they can be fixed to a crack volume.
FIG. 16 shows a 22 degree jam plate (hollow) 470. Section A-A Shows the thin ‘shelled’ construction throughout the plate. Detail B shows a close-up the more complex geometry around the screw holes.
The frames can receive a sheet of soft grip material 560, for example as shown in FIG. 19.
The frame may be hollow or may include a back plate against which the sheet is received.
FIG. 20 shows a middle volume unit 515 formed according to a further embodiment.
FIG. 21 shows an end cap unit 650 formed according to a further embodiment.
FIG. 22 shows a smaller finger crack volume design. The volume unit 740 shown has a generally triangular/wedge-shape with an inclined upper-outer face 741 that terminates with a curved “nose” 742 from which an interior face 743 depends that includes a groove/notch/recess 744. The groove/notch/recess is configured/adapted to receive a liner.
FIGS. 23 and 24 show a finger lock unit 880 embodiment. A nose part 842 is included; a liner can be fitted beneath the nose.
FIGS. 25 and 26 show an end cap 990 suitable for use with the finger lock of FIGS. 23 and 24.
FIG. 27A shows a crack volume system comprising volume units that can be used separately, singularly or together.
FIG. 27B—Crack Left 1095 a, 1095 b (e.g. 40 cm)
A unit used to cap the end of a crack or create small jamming sections within routes and boulders. Shaped fibreglass body for comfort on the feet and a modern look. Slick outer surface to encourage jamming. Individual unit enables the setter freedom to set at desired width and with other holds, volumes or wall features. Minimum width tight hands. Maximum width unlimited.
FIG. 27C—Crack Right 1096 a, 1096 b (e.g. 40 cm) A unit used to cap the end of a crack or create small jamming sections within routes and boulders. Single flat end enables other units to be stacked against it. Shaped fibreglass body for comfort on the feet and a modern look. Slick outer surface to encourage jamming. Individual unit enables the setter freedom to set at desired width and with other holds, volumes or wall features. Minimum width tight hands. Maximum width unlimited.
FIG. 27D—Crack Centre 1097 a, 1097 b (e.g. 80 cm)
A unit used to create longer sections of crack features. Double flat ends enables multiple units to be stacked against it. Shaped fibreglass body for comfort on the feet and a modern look. Slick outer surface to encourage jamming. Individual unit enables the setter freedom to set at desired width and with other holds, volumes or wall features. Minimum width tight hands. Maximum width unlimited.
Units can be used singularly, stacked together or used with side walls and other volumes to create cracks.
Crack depths allows off-width techniques to be used such as stacking and kneelocks.
Rounded crack edges provide comfort for feet.
Each unit comprises a fibreglass body with soft grip inner 1098 (illustrated in FIG. 27E).
Dual textured to force jamming technique.
Dual density to provide structural rigidity but comfort when jamming.
Dimensions are shown by way of non-limiting example.
Although illustrative embodiments of the invention have been disclosed in detail herein, with reference to the accompanying drawings, it is understood that the invention is not limited to the precise embodiments shown and that various changes and modifications can be effected therein by one skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the invention as defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A crack climbing unit comprising a body having an inwardly facing jamming surface, the surface being provided with a compliant liner.

2. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the body is formed from a material selected from: fibreglass; wood; metal; plastics.

3. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the unit comprises a generally flat jamming surface and an inclined back.

4. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the unit is generally wedge shape in section.

5. A unit as claimed in any preceding claim, in which the unit comprises a fixing flange.

6. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the liner comprises a rippled or corrugated inner face.

7. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the liner is textured.

8. A system as claimed in claim 1, in which the liner provides an undulating inner jamming surface.

9. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the liner is formed separately from and is attachable to the jamming surface.

10. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the liner is bonded to the body.

11. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the unit includes a flange for fixing to a climbing wall.

12. A unit as claimed in claim 1, in which the unit comprises or can be associated with an end cap at either or both ends thereof.

13. A crack climbing system comprising separate first and second units according to claim 1, the units are arrangeable with the inner jamming surface opposed to define a desired crack width.

14. A climbing crack system according to claim 13, comprising: one or more central sections, the or each central section comprising separate first and second central units each including an inner jamming surface, the central units are arrangeable with the inner jamming surface opposed; a first end cap section comprising separate first and second end cap parts each including an inner jamming surface; and a second end cap section comprising separate first and second end cap parts each including an inner jamming surface.

15. A climbing wall provided with one or more units according to claim 1.