US20200205542A1

US20200205542A1 - Method of dyeing hair (variants)

Info

Publication number: US20200205542A1
Application number: US16/668,358
Authority: US
Inventors: Vladimir Borisovich SARBASHEV
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 2018-12-28
Filing date: 2019-10-30
Publication date: 2020-07-02
Also published as: RU2697497C9; RU2697497C1

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of hairdressing, and more particularly to methods of coloring. The technical result of the proposed method is the maximum preservation of the quality of the hair with any kind of lightening and with any correction of the root area. A variety of variants of the offered method of coloring with the separation of hair into sections, taking into account the anatomical points of the head, according to the schemes “rhombus”, “square”, “triangle”, “horseshoe” is necessary in order to adapt the coloring process to a specific effect, which depends on the type of haircut and the length of hair. The technical result is achieved by the fact that the method of coloring is taken out by blowing hair layers from a strand with a hairdryer, while making up a hair coloring scheme consisting of sections constructed based on the anatomical points of the head.

Description

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application claims priority to Russian patent application No. 2018147186/12 filed Dec. 28, 2018, currently allowed.

FIELD OF INVENTION

The invention relates to the field of hairdressing, more specifically to methods of coloring human hair.

BACKGROUND

Nowadays, the following methods of coloring human hair are widely known and commonly used, giving a combination of hair with a natural state and colored hair.
Highlighting is a method of coloring a person's hair, for example, determining the highest point of a person's head in its natural position, separating base strand that begins from the apex, dividing the base hair strand into smaller elementary strands and applying color, for example, for every other elementary strand. Next, the hairdresser separates hair strands starting below the hair of the base strand, and for each selected strand repeats the steps of separating this hair strand into smaller elementary strands and coloring every second elementary strand. After pausing sufficiently long for the color to deposit, the formula is rinsed off. It should be noted that different hairdressers separate those or other strands in any sequence, but highlighting is characterized by the presence of a mandatory step of breaking the strands into smaller elementary strands and the stage of selective coloring of elementary strands and, as a rule, using the same color.
As a result of coloring, a combination of hair with a natural human color and colored hair is formed. In addition, natural-colored hair “covers” the regrowth area, as a result of which a person with highlighting in this way can color hair less frequently than a person who colored hair in the usual way;
Coloration is a method of coloring a person's hair, for example, determining the highest point of a person's head in its natural position, separating the base hair from a person's hair that begins from the apex, dividing the base hair strand into smaller elementary strands and applying color for every other elementary strand. Next, the hairdresser isolates hair strands starting below the hair of a base strand from a person's hair, and for each selected strand repeats the steps of breaking this hair strand into smaller elementary strands and coloring every second elementary strand. After posing sufficiently long for the color to deposit, the formula is rinsed off. It should be noted that different hairdressers separate those or other strands in any sequence, but coloration is characterized by the presence of a mandatory step of breaking the strands into smaller elementary strands and the stage of selective coloring of elementary strands, as a rule, applying different coloring formulas for adjacent strands.
Interesting hairstyles are also obtained from coloring in this way, since coloring produces a combination of layers of colored in different shades hair. In addition, this type of coloring covers the regrowth areas quite well; as a result, a person with this type of coloring can color hair less often than the person who has colored hair in the usual way.
The above methods of coloring are characterized by the fact that immediately after coloring, a strand has the same color along its entire length. After some time, the hair grows the consequent the root area growth, a different color than the colored area of the strand, makes the hair, sooner or later, less attractive. Despite the fact that highlighting and coloration allow the hairdresser to cover this disadvantage, after some time, the retouch service becomes necessary. In this case, both the regrown areas that have not been previously colored and the areas of the hair that have already been colored and do not require additional coloring are subject to the retouch service, which unnecessarily injures the hair.
There is a method of coloring, which consists of first determining the highest point of the human head in its natural position. A base strand of hair that becomes from the apex is singled out from the rest of that person's hair. The first color formula is applied to the root area of the base hair strand. The strands that are situated below the base strand are sequentially isolated, and the first color formula on the root areas of the selected strands is applied. The second formula, which is lighter compared to the first one, is applied to the strands which have not had the first formula applied to them. After posing sufficiently for the color to deposit, the formulas are rinsed off. As a result of the implementation of this method, hair is colored in different shades according to their length, thus eliminating the need to color the root area for a long time (RF patent No 2308861 Coloring method. Published on Oct. 27, 2007)[1].
The indicated method does not allow a smooth and soft color transition of the shades. In addition, it does not make it possible to retouch the root area without affecting previously bleached or previously colored hair, which is important for blonds or mixed coloring.
Currently, the peak of popularity in the field of coloring belongs to natural looks, giving the client the most natural shade, with healthy looking hair.
Classical highlighting has undergone major changes, the following methods of coloring are widely known and widely used: shatush, ombre, and balayage. Each of them provides natural effects of lightened by the sun hair, and in all three, there is a contrast between the root area and the ends of the strand.
Shatush is a coloring technology, which represents a smooth transition from dark to lighter shades, and is distinguished by its principle of applying coloring formula. This process takes place in the “free hand technique”, that is to say, without the use of additional tools and instruments, and even without foil.
Lightening formula is applied with an ordinary coloring brush. Before this, the hair is divided into thin strands and combed from the roots to the ends. This will create an “air cushion” that will prevent overstaining of the hair strands. The formula will affect only individual upper layers, which will provide an imperceptible color transition.
The ends of the hair are colored more abundantly, and closer to the root area, the coloring formula is stretched in thin stripes. Sometimes a separate strand is colored in a V-shaped way.
At the same time, negligence in performing actions does not have a negative impact on the result. The lighter and more randomly the shade is applied, the more natural the hairstyle looks. Most shatush coloring services suit brunettes and brown-haired women. Shatush coloring service also requires more frequent retouch services. It depends on the chosen shade and the speed of hair growth. Shatush is a coloring method in which a hairdresser uses 2-3 shades close in tone, as close as possible to the natural hair color. Due to the soft stretching of the coloring formula along the strands, the effect of lightened in the sun is achieved. However, the hair does not allow the hairdresser to work close to the root area and does not allow simultaneous manipulations with the hair between the separated strands.
Ombre is translated as “shadow” and, unlike shatush, has a clearer border of color transition. This technology is a multi-stage coloring. It allows the hairdresser to get natural overlaps of several shades—for example, from light blond to dark chestnut. To make the color transition noticeable, ombre is performed on dark strands. The transition is made from dark root areas to light ends. At the same time, the border between two shades is blurred. The transition to a light tone can begin from the mid-length of the hair.
In the process of coloring, the coloring formula is applied to the selected area and separated with foil. After the required posing time, the formula is rinsed off. The formula is re-applied to the previously colored area, the top line is lowered by a couple of centimeters. Again, the foil is used for separation, after posing the formula is rinsed off. Ombre is suitable for short haircuts, and works more effectively on dark hair.
Balayage is translated from French as “sweep”, because the work of the hairdresser with a brush when applying a coloring formula resembles to sweeps of a broom.
With balayage, the ends of the strands are lighter in color, starting from the mid-length.
The coloring formula is applied in a V-shaped or W-shaped way. First, the sides of the selected strand are colored with the brush, and then the ends. Two or three overlapping shades are used. Color transitions can be visual or smooth, with no clear boundaries.
Unlike the shatush technique, the coloring formula is applied to the entire area, that is, the lower part stands out more clearly, which makes balayage similar to ombre. However, the shades used in the first case are closer to the natural hair color. In addition, in a balayage, vertical rather than horizontal application is used, due to which more blurry transitions of shades are obtained. We can say that balayage is a cross between shatush and ombre.
All of the above mentioned coloring methods, with the exception of shatush, work with strands in-plane, not allowing the division of colored hair into dark and light and coloring only those sections that require coloring or color correction. In addition, the mentioned methods do not allow to obtain the predicted desired result or a smooth transition from a dark shade to a light shade.
Shatush works with volume, coloring is made randomly, it does not give a predictable result on hair.
Currently, a method of coloring using a hair dryer is gaining popularity (see, for example, http://empathystudio.ru/; colorstudiospb.ru; https://volosomagia.ru/okrashivanie/airtouch; https://irecommend.ru/content/okrashivanie-volos-v-tekhnike-airtouch; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKQK5q_X6Y; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKQK5q_X6Y; hairlab-studio.ru/.../okrashivanie-volos/okrashivanie-volos-airtouch; https://www.itlook-salon.ru/airtouch.php; https://frauwow.com/zdorove/volosy/okrashivanie/airtouch.html). Some methods are based on the fact that thin strands are singled out in a certain sequence over the entire head. Each strand is held in suspense to the surface of the head, directing the flow of cold air from the hairdryer through the strand. At the same time, the hair dryer should be cold in order to avoid unnecessary injury to the strand. A part of the hair is “blown out”, and part of it remains in the hairdresser's hands. During the exposure to the air flow, weaker and shorter hairs are blown out, so no negative effect is caused to hair. On the hair that remains between the fingers, a lightening formula is applied and after the application the strand is separated by foil, meshes or cotton rollers. The entire amount of hair is worked out. Next step is lightening the strands with on-the-root or off-the-root application. Hair coloring with a hairdryer can be done with a darker root area or not processed root area. Lightened strands are colored to neutralize unwanted shades.
There are several advantages of such coloring: volumetric color; the absence of a visible border of the root growth, which allows to offer retouch services every 4-6 months.
However, this method does not completely solve the problem for blond hair.
The common problem of blond hair (http://problemyvolos.ru/uxod/uxod-za-volosami-blondinkam.html), consisting of dullness and color loss is well known. This is due to the high susceptibility of light strands to the environmental stress and applied products. Blond hair is empty of color. They are light due to the fact that they lack color pigments. That is why the hair of blondes often tend to change the color, becoming yellow or gray. Also blond hair, especially natural, can demonstrate such a phenomenon as a difference in shades at the root area comparing with the entire length and ends. This phenomenon is caused by the fact that bleached blond hair is prone to absorb environmental elements. Smog, tobacco smoke, dirt, environment particles can cover the surface of the hair and change the color, giving the hair a yellow or gray hue. Hair changes color because elements of a contaminated environment get under the cuticle. In addition, previously lightened blond hair that has grown needs color correction both in the root area and along the entire length of the strands.
In reality, a strand of long blonde hair has an uneven color in length:

uncolored hair in the root area has a natural color; further along the entire length acquires yellowness; at the ends—gray shade;
in previously lightened blond hair, in the root area, the regrown hair has a natural color, which is darker than the entire length; further along the entire length has a previously colored part or acquires yellowness.

The need to maintain a beautiful, even blond shades forces the blondes to come to frequent coloring services or correction services, which leads to unnecessary injury to the hair, including dryness and brittle hair ends. As a result, there are few blondes in the world with healthy hair.
All existing methods of coloring blond hair do not allow dividing colored hair into dark and light and coloring only those sections of hair in strands that require coloring or color correction. In known methods, coloring is taken out along the entire length of the strand, the color formula is applied both to areas that have already been recently colored, to the new growth or areas requiring correction, which is harmful to hair. In addition, the known methods do not allow to obtain the predicted desired result on the hair, to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone.
The basis of the present invention is to improve the method of coloring with a hair dryer, mainly for light (blond) natural or previously colored hair, especially long hair, taking into account the layers of hair in the strands, the choice of levels of strands; the choice of the coloring scheme, taking into account the type of haircut; to obtain the predicted desired result on the hair, to obtain a smooth transition from dark to light hair tone and high variability of coloring.
The technical result of the offered method for coloring is the maximum preservation of the quality of the hair with any kind of lightening and with any color correction of the root area.
The offered method of coloring provides the division of hair into sections, taking into account the anatomical points of the head, according to the schemes “rhombus”, “square”, “triangle”, and “horseshoe” is necessary in order to adapt the coloring process to a specific effect, which depends on the type of the haircut and the length of the hair.

SUMMARY

The technical result is achieved by the fact that the method of coloring is performed by blowing out strands with a hair dryer. Variant 1:
The hairdresser makes a coloring scheme;

sections are separated based on the anatomical points of the head;
the direction of strands takes into account the direction of hair growth in the section;
depending on the activity of the hair growth phases correspond to the layers of hair;
grab the strand by hand in accordance with the grip level selected according to the coloring scheme;
hold the hair dryer in the other hand and direct the air flow from the hair dryer through the strand, which is pulled away in the direction of the cut line of the hair in the selected hairstyle, gradually blowing out layers of hair below the grip level, resulting in the necessary layers of hair to be colored as a result of blowing;
each layer is then separated and fixated;
a color formula is applied to the hair layer in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil;
pausing time depends on the formula;
color formulas are rinsed off;
the hair is treated according to the post-colored recipe.

To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one shade to another, color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern.
In this case, after coloring, the colored strands are tinted to neutralize the unwanted shades.
In this case, the coloring scheme is presented as a coloring diagram, which is which is a graphic representation of the hair strands in a form of an elongated base triangle, a base of the triangle is a basal hairline; a top of the triangle is an end of the hair strand, and a smaller triangle is applied to the elongated base triangle, the smaller triangle corresponding to a next hair layer, and the smaller triangle of the next layer is spread beyond the base triangle, while on each triangle-layer a border of a root area is marked, boundaries of coloring areas are marked; a formula, numbers of color formulas and their ratios on each section of the layer are also marked.
The method of coloring of human hair by flowing the layers of hair from a strand—variant 2:
The hairdresser makes a diagram of coloring;

divide hair with a parting, sections are constructed based on the anatomical points of the head;
- at the same time, a central section in a form of a rhombus is formed, and peripheral sections relative to the central section of the rhombus are formed, the peripheral sections being based on anatomical points of the head, for which:
- through a highest point of a crown (HPC), a central radial parting and a central vertical parting are drawn;
- the hairdresser draws two parallel partings from upper points of a temple (UPT) to projection points (PP) on the central radial parting;
- a line segment equal to a distance from the HPC to the PP on the central radial parting is measured and laid from the PP to an intersection with the central vertical parting of the projection, thus two sides of the rhombus are created; a segment equal to a segment from the HPC to a top of the two resulting sides is laid on another side of the central radial parting; a resulting point is connected with a parting with the PP and thus get the central section in the form of the rhombus from the hair on the head of the person;
- from the parting forming rear sides of the central rhombus section, the central vertical parting and the central radial parting, two peripheral occipital sections, relative to the central rhombus section, are constructed based on anatomical points of the head;
- from the two parallel front partings and the central radial parting, two peripheral temporal sections, relative to the central rhombus section, are constructed based on anatomical points of the head;
- from the parting forming the front sides of the central rhombus section, the central vertical parting and two parallel front parting, two peripheral parietal sections are obtained, relative to the central rhombus section, constructed based on anatomical points of the head;
- strands of hair starting from those sections are separated from each other with a direction that takes into account a direction of hair growth in the section;
- in the occipital sections and parietal sections, the direction of the strands is parallel to corresponding sides of the rhombus section;
- in the temporal sections, the direction of the strands is parallel to a hairline in a temporal area;
in the rhombus section, the direction of the strands is arbitrary;
levels of hair in the strand are separated depending on the activity of the hair growth phases corresponding to the hair layers;
take the strand of hair in accordance with the grip level selected in the coloring scheme, while holding the hairdryer in the other hand and directing the air flow from the hairdryer through the strand, which is held in the direction of the cut line of the haircut, gradually blowing out the layers of hair below the grip level, with the result of blowing out the necessary hair layers for coloring;
each resulting layer is fixed, the coloring formula is applied in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil;
pause sufficiently for the color to deposit;
the color formula is rinsed off;
the hair is treated according to the post-colored recipe.

Moreover, to ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern.
At the same time, the colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
The coloring pattern is presented in the form of a coloring diagram—variant 3:
The hairdresser makes a diagram of coloring;

separate hair with a parting, sections are separated based on the anatomical points of the head;
- a central section in a form of a square is created from the hair on the head of the person, and peripheral sections relative to the central section of the square are formed, built based on anatomical points of the head, for which:
- through a highest point of a crown (HPC), a central radial parting and a central vertical parting are drawn,
- through lower points of a temple (LPT) and a point of occipitalis (O), a horizontal parting is created;
- the hairdresser draws two parallel partings from upper points of the temple (UPT) to projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting and then to a hairline on a lower occipital area;
- from a midpoint of a crown (MPC), the hairdresser draws a horizontal line to an intersection with the parallel partings and thus get the central square section; the obtained intersection points are connected by diagonal lines with midpoints of the temples (MPT) on a hairline of a parietal zone, creating the first, second, third, and fourth sectors of the square;
- from the partings forming vertical sides of the central square section, the central vertical parting and the central horizontal parting, two peripheral temporal-occipital sections, relative to the central square section, are formed based on anatomical points of the head;
- the hairdresser draws a diagonal line from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting to the projection point (PP) on the hairline on a lower occipital area; create two peripheral occipital sections, built based on anatomical points of the head;
- strands of hair starting from all sections are separated from each other with a direction that takes into account a direction of hair growth in the section:
- in one occipital section, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line dividing the occipital sections;
- in another occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the occipital sections;
- in the temporal-occipital sections, the direction of the strands in the direction of natural hair growth;
- in sectors of the central square section, the direction of the strands is radial with respect to an intersection of the diagonals of the square.
levels are selected depending on the activity of the hair growth phases corresponding to the hair layer;
take out the strand by hand in accordance with the grip level selected in the coloring scheme, while holding the hairdryer in the other hand and directing the air flow from the hairdryer through the strand, which is held in the direction of the cut line of the haircut, gradually blowing out the layers of hair from it below the grip level, with a result of blowing the layers of hair necessary for coloring;
each layer obtained is fixed;
a color formula is applied to the obtained hair layer in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil, thus working out all layers in each section;
pause sufficiently for coloring formulas to deposit;
the color formula is rinsed off;
the hair is treated according to the post-colored recipe.

Moreover, to ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern.
Moreover, the colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
The coloring pattern is presented in the form of a coloring diagram—variant 4:
The hairdresser makes a diagram of coloring;

sections from the hair are separated taking into consideration the anatomical points of the head;
- the central section in the form of a triangle is formed; and peripheral sections, relative to the central section of the triangle are formed, based on anatomical points of the head, for which:
- through a highest point of a crown (HPC), a central radial parting and a central vertical parting are drawn;
- through lower points of temples (LPT) and a lower point of the crown (LPC), a horizontal parting is drawn;
- two parallel partings are drawn from upper points of the temples (UPT) to projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting and then to a hairline on a lower occipital area;
- from a center point (CP) lines are drawn to an intersection with projection points (PP) on the central radial parting with a continuation to an intersection with the horizontal parting and thus get the central triangle section;
- from the upper points of the temples through the upper point of the crown (UPC) a sickle parting is made; two lateral sectors and one central sector of the triangle section of a parietal zone are obtained;
- extended lines of the sides of the triangle, the central vertical parting and horizontal parting form two sections of an upper occipital area;
- sections between the sickle shaped partings, bordering the lateral sectors of the triangle, the horizontal parting and the sides of the triangle form peripheral sections of a temporal-occipital zone, based on anatomical points of the head;
- a diagonal line is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting to the projection point (PP) on a hairline on a lower occipital area; get two peripheral lower occipital sections, based on anatomical points of the head;
- strands of hair starting from all sections are separated with a direction that takes into account a direction of hair growth in each section:
- in the lower occipital section, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections;
- in the lower occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the occipital sections;
- in the temporal-occipital sections, the direction of the strands from the center point (CP) to the horizontal parting;
- in sections of the upper occipital area, the direction of the strands is radial from the center point (CP) to the horizontal parting;
- in the lateral sectors from the central sector of the triangle, the direction of the strands is radial from the central point (CP) to the sickle shaped parting;
- in the central sector of the triangle, the direction of the strands is parallel to the central radial parting;
levels are selected depending on the activity of the hair growth phases corresponding to the layers of hair;
take out the strand by hand in accordance with the grip level selected in the coloring diagram, while holding the hairdryer in the other hand and directing the air flow from the hairdryer through the strand, which is held in a line perpendicular to the surface of the head, resulting in the necessary layer of hair being blown; while making the strand higher, next layer is blown out; each layer obtained is fixed;
a coloring formula is applied to the obtained hair layer in accordance with the coloring scheme and the hair layer is separated by foil, thus working out all layers of hair strands in each section;
in the presence of subsequent coloring layers, color formula is applied to them according to the coloring diagram;
pause sufficiently for the color to color formula the hair, and wash the color formulas off of the hair.

Moreover, to ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern.
Moreover, the colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
The coloring pattern is presented in the form of a coloring diagram—variant 5:
The hairdresser makes a diagram of hair coloring;

sections are separated according to the anatomical points of the head;
- a central section in a form of a horseshoe is formed; the peripheral, relative to the central section of the horseshoe, based on anatomical points of the head, for which:
- through a highest point of a crown (HPC), a central radial parting and a central vertical parting are drawn;
- through lower points of temples (LPT) and a point of occipitalis (O), a horizontal parting is made;
- two parallel partings are made from upper points of the temple (UPT) to projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting and then to a hairline on a lower occipital area;
- two lines parallel to the central radial parting are drawn from a central point (CP) through the central vertical parting at an equal distance to an intersection with the parallel parting starting from the upper points of the temple (UPT), and two rectangular sections are formed: a parietal section and a parietal-occipital section;
- a line is drawn from the central point (CP) to a point of intersection with a boundary line of the parietal section and get a triangular section;
- from an intersection points (IP) of the parallel parting with a boundary line of the parietal-occipital section, a sickle parting is drawn through a midpoint of the crown and an upper occipital section is obtained;
- the parietal section, the parietal-occipital section, and the rounded upper-occipital section form the central horseshoe section;
- a diagonal line is drawn from one of projection points (PP) on the sickle parting to the projection point (PP) on the horizontal parting; get two peripheral parietal-upper occipital sections, based on anatomical points of the head;
- a diagonal line is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting to a projection point (PP) on a hairline on a lower occipital area; get left and right peripheral lower occipital sections, based on anatomical points of the head;
- strands of hair starting from all sections are separated with a direction that takes into account a direction of hair growth in each section:
- in the left lower occipital section, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections;
- in the right lower occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the occipital sections;
- in the temporal-occipital sections, the direction of the strands from the center point (CP) to the horizontal parting;
- in the triangular section, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line separating the parietal sections;
- in the parietal zone section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the parietal sections;
- in the parietal-occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the direction of the strands in an adjacent parietal zone;
- in the upper occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the direction of the strands in the parietal-occipital section;
levels are selected depending on the activity of the hair growth phases corresponding to the layers of hair;
gripping the strand by hand in accordance with the grip level selected according to the coloring scheme, while holding the hairdryer in the other hand and directing the air flow from the hairdryer through the strand, which is held in the guy line in the direction of the hair cut line in the haircut, resulting in the necessary hair layer being blown out; while making the strand of the strand higher, the next layer is blown out; each layer obtained is fixed;
a coloring formula is applied to the obtained hair layer in accordance with the coloring scheme and the hair layer is separated by foil, thus working out all layers of hair strands in each section;
in the presence of subsequent coloring layers, a color formula is applied to them according to the coloring scheme;
pause sufficiently for the color formula to deposit, rinse off the color formulas.

Moreover, to ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern.
Moreover, the colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
In this case, the coloring pattern is presented in the form of a coloring diagram.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1, 1A. Scheme of hair layers in a strand.

FIG. 2. An example of a strand diagram of two layers.

FIG. 3. An example of a coloring chart of a strand of two layers.

FIG. 4. The scheme of the classic division of hair into zones.

FIG. 5. The layout of the anatomical points of the head.

FIG. 6. Diagram of coloring strands of two layers for variant 1.

FIG. 7. Diagram of hair separation “rhombus” according to variant 2.

FIG. 8a -d. Scheme of separation of hair “square” according to variant 3.

FIG. 9a -d. Scheme of hair separation “triangle” according to variant 4.

FIG. 10a -d. Scheme of hair separation “horseshoe” according to variant 5.

FIG. 11 Blowing out layers of shorter har from the strand by the air flow from the hairdryer. A is a top layer which the hairdresser holds. Layers B,C,D,E correspond to younger hair, not yet grown full length. Layers B,C,D,E may form one second layer, which will be colored differently than the top layer. Alternatively, layers B,C may form the second layer, and layers D,E form the third layer; all layers have different color layout. All layers A-E in this figure belong to the same strand.

THE DETAILED DISCLOSURE OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

Basic concepts, terms and definitions.
Hair growth layer. The hair is divided into a trunk (shaft) protruding from the scalp and root. The lower, expanded part of the hair root is called the bulb, it is due to it that the hair grows, as well as the formation of new hair. The life cycle of the hair consists of three stages; its duration varies from 2 to 5 years. Each hair follicle is genetically programmed to produce approximately 25-27 hair shafts. Each hair lives according to its “individual schedule,” and therefore different hairs are at the same time at different stages of their life cycle: 85% of the hair is in the active growth phase (anagen), 1% in the rest phase (catagen) and 14%—in the stage of prolapse (telogen). The length of each hair depends on what phase it is in. The smallest length of a newly starting hair is the so-called undercoat. The greatest length of hair is in the resting phase before hair loss or during hair loss. Schematically, a strand with different hair growth phases is shown in FIG. 1.
If the strand of hair in the air flow is expanded from the shortest to the longest (FIG. 1A), a “fan” is created. These hair groups of different lengths are layers. The length and thickness of the layers varies between people. The number of layers in the strand depends on the activity of the growth phases. At the end of the strand contains the longest hair, but contain only a small amount of long hair, while the roots have the shortest hair, and a large number of them. A rapid change in growth phases (quickly regrown hair) indicates a high activity of the layers, i.e. about the number of layers.
When coloring according to the proposed method, each strand is pulled away in the direction of the hair cut line, directing the flow of cold air from the hairdryer through the strand. At the same time, part of the hair is “blown out” (the shorter layers), and the other part of the hair (longer layers) remains in the hand.
The grip level is the height of the section of the strand where the hairdresser holds the strand with his fingers in the process of blowing with a hairdryer; the grip level determines the ratio of light and dark color in the colored strand. When the layers are highly active, the grip level is taken higher, i.e. closer to the root part, where the dark color of the regrown and newly grown hair dominates.
The coloring scheme is a plan for the coloring process, which the hairdresser draws after studying the condition of the hair. The coloring scheme includes the boundaries of the application of color formulas; recipe, numbers of color formulas and their ratio on each section of the layer.
The coloring diagram is an auxiliary tool for obtaining the most accurate coloring result and is a graphic image of a strand in the form of an elongated triangle (FIG. 2), the base of which is a basal hairline; the top is the end of the hair strand. A smaller triangle is applied to the base triangle, corresponding to the next layer of hair. For visualization, the triangle of the subsequent layer is deployed outside the base triangle (FIG. 3). On each triangle-layer, a coloring scheme is applied: the border of the root area, the border of the application of color formulas; formula—numbers of color formulas, shades, mixtures and their ratios on each section of the layer.
The scheme of separation of hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 1). The coloring method in question of hair coloring is based on the division of hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head.
The classical division of hair into zones is due to the anatomical features of the shape of the human skull, with some certain metric characteristics (dimensions, lines of curvature, transitions, depressions, bulges and a general individual design). Sections are artificial lines that separate and divide the scalp into zones to facilitate access and provide the ability to work with each separately. Deviation from the classical division leads to a poor quality result of a traditionally performed hairdressing service.
The area of the scalp is a certain section of the scalp that is allocated by the master in the process. Classical zones are known in hairdressing: frontal-parietal zone (FPZ), temporal-lateral zone (TLZ), upper occipital (UOZ), middle occipital (MOZ) and lower occipital (LOZ) zones.
The frontal-parietal zone of the head (FPZ) in front is limited by the edge of hair growth on the forehead, in the back by the upper part of the nape (along the central radial parting), and on the sides by the temporal-lateral zones. It is in the front-parietal zone that the bulk of the volume is formed. The hair on the FPZ grows mainly from the top of the head to the face. At the top of the head, along its border, is the main swirl, which determines the streaming and direction of hair growth. At the FPZ there is a natural parting (the only strip of skin against the background of the hair), which can be in the middle, left, right, diagonally, or completely absent. The FPZ is crucial in solving the general appearance of the model. Therefore, the central sections “rhombus”, “square”, “triangle”, “horseshoe” according to the invention are located on the FPZ.
TLZ—temporal-lateral zones—the left and right are limited at the place of attachment of the auricle by a vertical section and are adjacent to the FPZ.
The upper occipital zone (UOZ) above the left and right ear is bordered by the TLZ. At the UOZ there are two upper occipital tubercles and a mid-occipital tubercle.
The direction, the run of hair growth at the UOZ is a multidirectional swirl. Part of the hair grows towards the face, the other—down, to the neck, left and right in the area of the auricles. When coloring, the zone requires a thorough and flexible approach. It is in this area that the flaws of the shape of the skull, affecting the solution of the tasks of the hairdresser, clearly manifest themselves.
The middle occipital zone (MOZ) rests on the auricles on the left and on the right, borders on the UOZ at the top, the bottom line of the zone ends at the base of the skull, which is perfectly felt in this area. Hair growth in the middle down to the neck, right and left in the direction of the auricles.
On the lower border in the zone is the lower occipital protuberance. It is through it that the line of the sagittal section passes. The lower boundary of the MOZ zone sharply goes deep and reduces the volume of the zone. The line of curvature of the outgoing volume causes difficulties for work on it.
The lower occipital zone (LOZ) is located outside the surface of the skull, namely on the neck, including air growth down to the auricles. In the areas to the left and to the right of the sagittal section, vortices are often observed, which in turn change the natural growth of hair, up to the formation of vortices with the opposite direction of growth.
The anatomical points of the head are shown in FIG. 2
CP—the central point—the first point at the intersection of the hairline and the extension line of the central vertical parting 11.
HPC—the highest point of the crown, the apex, at the intersection of the central radial 10 and the central vertical parting 11.
MPC—the middle point of the crown between the HPC and LPC.
LPC—the lower point of the crown, at the intersection of vertical 11 and horizontal 12 parting.
UPT—the upper point of the temple—are on a vertical line from the center of the pupil or bulge of the eyebrow to the intersection with the hairline.
MPT—the middle point of the temple—at the intersection of the hairline and the line of the jugular connection
LPT—the lower point of the temple—in the recess near the auricle.
O—the occipitalis, located on the lower border of the nape bulge.
All the points listed above, for the most part, are quite pronounced and can be determined by touch.
PP—the projection point.
10—the central radial parting is an arch from ear to ear through the crown. Separates the parietal zone from the upper occipital.
11—the central vertical parting divides the upper and lower occipital zones into two halves.
12—the horizontal parting, separates the upper occipital zone from the lower, passes from ear to ear through the occipital tubercles and the lower point of the crown (LPC).
Implementation of the Invention
The Implementation of the Method of Coloring According to Variant 1.
The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain the desired result on the hair. The dying pattern is visually presented in the form of a coloring diagram, which is a graphic image of a strand in the form of an elongated triangle (FIG. 3), the base of which is a root hairline; the top is the end of the hair strand. A smaller triangle is applied to the base triangle, corresponding to the next layer of hair. The triangle of the subsequent layer is expanded beyond the base triangle. On each triangle-layer, a coloring scheme is applied, which includes: the border of the root area, the border of the application of color formulas; the recipe, the number of color formulas in each section of the layer.
One skilled in the art will understand that the term “formula, number of color formulas” may also include shades, mixtones, and their ratios. Further in the text, the term “formula, numbers of color formulas” will be used in this sense.
Depending on the type of haircut and the length of the hair, a scheme for dividing the hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head is chosen (FIG. 1).
The hair is divided into strands in each zone and each strand is gripped and separated. Depending on the activity of the hair growth phases corresponding to the layers, grip level for the strands are chosen.
The hairdresser grabs a strand in accordance with the grip level and pull away in the direction of the hair cut. The hairdresser holds a hair dryer in the other hand and directs the air flow from the hair dryer through the strand, step by step blowing out layers of hair that are below the grip level, resulting in blowing out layers of hair below the grip level, and the rest remain in the hand for coloring; each layer obtained is fixed. A coloring formula is applied to the obtained hair layer in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil. Pause the work sufficient for the coloring the hair. To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, a color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal or a zigzag pattern. Then the color formulas are rinsed off the hair and hair is treated according to the post-coloring procedure.
During the initial coloring (first visit), dividing the strand into two layers is usually enough. During the secondary coloring (second visit), the separation of the strand into three layers is required. The longest layer and the middle layer are colored with lighter color; color formula is applied according to the coloring scheme. Correction of coloring is taken out if necessary. During the third coloring, the hairdresser works with the shortest layer, making the root area colored with lighter color, without affecting all other hair.
In more detail, the correction can be described as follows.
If the client arrives four or more months after coloring, then the hairdresser can separate the same first strands and lighten the root area, because the light part is clearly separated from the dark and overgrown zone in the first layers, which were colored four or more months ago. If the client wants to add more light color, then without touching the long strands from which the root area has grown, the hairdresser can take the middle layer and add light colors and thereby make a smoother transition from the root area.
At the next visit, the work is performed with one of two layers: either with the very first, the longest one, or the middle. They work with all three layers, and in turn, every 2-3 months changing them only if a large amount of blond color is needed, to almost a total blond.
When the hairdresser needs a light color stretch, the hairdresser works in long layers. The middle layer is added extremely rarely when there is a need for dark gradient coloring. If more blond is needed, a middle layer is added. If even more blond is needed, then a third layer is added. In addition, there is the possibility of alternating between them.
Thus, a hairdresser can get all the layers in the strands of hair. Over time, the hair grows and changes back to its original color, but the method allows the hairdresser to separate the light layers from the dark and color only those areas of the hair that need it. A hairdresser can predict a year in advance and distribute the time when the correction of colored hair can be done without injuring the hair, taking into account each individual case.
The proposed coloring method makes it possible to separate the colored hair into dark and light, to highlight the hair in need of coloring, and not to touch the rest. If the hair does not need to be lightened, it will not be damaged. The hairdresser works only with a layer of hair that should be lightened. There is no other coloring method, where such separation of the strand into light and dark color achieved. The method makes it possible to obtain a smooth transition from a dark tone to a light tone over the entire volume of the hair strand and also have a high variability of coloring, as a result of which maximum hair quality is maintained for any kind of lightening and for any correction of the root area.
The following are non-limiting examples of specific performance of the proposed method of hair coloring according to variant 1.

EXAMPLE 1

The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain the desired result on the hair. In this example the hair being medium-length hair (to the shoulders), bob haircut; unsuccessful previous coloring led to the effect of burnt out hair. The hair is divided into strands in each zone and each strand is clamped. The activity of the phases of hair growth allows the hairdresser to select two layers of 21, 22 with two grip levels. The hairdresser grabs the strand in accordance with the first grip level, closer to the ends of the strand, and pull away in the direction of hair cut. The shorter hair layers below the grip level are blown down with a hairdryer from the strand and fixed with a clip. The rest of the hair in the strands is gripped in accordance with the second grip level, closer to the roots of the hair, fixed with a clip. A coloring chart is made by unfolding a short layer 22 on the side of the long 21 layer of the strand (FIG. 6), indicating color tones according to the coloring formula on each section of the layer. The color 6N (medium brown) is indicated on the longest layer 21, in the section closest to the root, the color 8N (blonde) is indicated in the middle section, and 10N (platinum blonde) in the rest of the section. Correspondingly, on a short layer 22, in the area closest to the roots, color 6N (medium brown) is indicated, at the ends corresponding to the middle section of the base layer, 7N (light brown).
A foil is placed under each layer obtained, color formula is applied according to the diagram.
Pause sufficiently for the color to deposit. Then the color formulas are rinsed off the hair and treated according to the formula.
As a result of such coloring, the desired effect is obtained—a beautiful blonde with a smooth transition of tones, the effect of the natural color of sunburnt hair. This is one of the most difficult corrections.

EXAMPLE 2

The hairdresser examines the condition of the hair to be colored during the second visit after the initial coloring. Secondary coloring is required due to the fact that a layer of regrown hair has appeared, which makes a dark tone in the initially colored blond. The hairdresser determines the number of layers. Hair growth activity allows the hairdresser to distinguish three layers with two grip levels.
The longest layer is isolated and fixed with a clip. Medium and short layers are blown down from the remaining hair with an air flow from the hairdryer. On the middle layer, correction is taken out for coloring with a tone of 7N (light blond). The previously colored long layer is brightened with a tone of 8N (blond). The short layer is not affected and thus is not injured.
This is followed by a method according to Example 1.
As a result, the effect of sunburnt hair is refreshed and a smooth transition of tones is obtained over the entire volume of the hair strand, due to the fact that short layers of darker tones are folded into strands with clarified longer layers, without undue injury to short layers.

EXAMPLE 3

The hairdresser examines the condition of the hair to be colored, the third visit after secondary coloring. A layer of newly regrown hair of the original color appeared. Hair growth activity allows the hairdresser to separate the very first layer. Consistently blowing long layers, the grip level is brought closer to the root area, taking out the very first layer of newly regrown hair. The hairdresser corrects this layer in tone 6N, without affecting the long layers, and without unnecessarily injuring them.
This is followed by a method according to Example 1.

EXAMPLE 4

The hairdresser examines the condition of the hair to be colored. The client wants to brighten the hair. The highest grip level is on a long layer, blowing out all the short layers. The hairdresser then lays foil under the long layer, apply 8N brightening composition.
This is followed by a method according to Example 1.
The above examples are not exhaustive; they are given only for the best understanding of the proposed method.
To obtain the predicted desired result of hair coloring, it is necessary to adapt the coloring process for a certain type of haircut to prevent short hair from falling out of the grip and, therefore, to have dark uncolored hair at the ends of the strands. In the proposed method, such a phenomenon is not possible.
The author adapted the proposed coloring method with the schemes of hair separation called “rhombus”, “square”, “triangle”, and “horseshoe”.
The implementation of the method of coloring according to variant 2 with the separation of hair according to the scheme “rhombus” (FIG. 7A-D).
This variant of the method is suitable for the hair of the same length, for example, a bob.
The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain the desired result on the hair. The coloring pattern is visually presented in the form of a coloring diagram described above.
The hairdresser chooses a “rhombus” pattern of dividing hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head.
The frontal-parietal zone (FPZ) of the head is crucial in deciding the general appearance of the colored hair, however, the different direction of hair growth in this zone complicates the work of the hairdresser. The hair on the FPZ grows mainly from the top of the head to the face. At the top of the head, along its border, is the main swirl, which determines the direction of hair growth. There is a natural parting on the FPZ. To facilitate access to the layers and the possibility of obtaining the desired result on the colored hair, the FPZ is divided into diagonal section lines, highlighting the central “rhombus” section, for which:

the central radial parting 10 and central vertical parting are made 11 through the highest point of the crown (HPC);
draw two parallel partings from the upper points of the temple (UPT) to the projection points (PP) on the central radial parting 10 (FIG. 7C);
a line segment equal to a distance from the HPC to the PP on the central radial parting is measured and laid from the PP to an intersection with the central vertical parting of the projection, thus two sides of the rhombus are created;
a segment equal to a segment from the HPC to a top of the two resulting sides is laid on another side of the central radial parting; a resulting point is connected with a parting with the PP and thus get the central section in the form of the rhombus from the hair on the head of the person;
from the parting forming the rear sides of the central rhombus section, the central vertical parting 11 and the central radial parting 10, peripheral occipital sections 1 and 2 are obtained relative to the central rhombus section constructed from the anatomical points of the head;
from the lines of two parallel front partings and the central radial parting 10, peripheral temporal sections 3 and 4 are obtained, relative to the central rhombus section, constructed from the anatomical points of the head;
from the parting forming the front sides of the central rhombus section, the central vertical parting 11 and two parallel front parting, peripheral parietal sections 5 and 6 are obtained relative to the central rhombus section constructed from the anatomical points of the head.
from the hair starting in sections, strands are isolated with the direction shown in FIGS. 7A-D:
in the occipital sections 1, 2 and parietal sections 5, 6, the direction of the strands is parallel to the corresponding sides of the rhombus section;
in the temporal sections 3 and 4, the direction of the strands is parallel to the hairline in the temporal area;
in section 7 “rhombus” the direction of the strands is arbitrary, it can be vertical, horizontal or diagonal.

Each strand is fixed with a clamp. Depending on the activity of the hair growth phases corresponding to the hair layers, the grip level in the strand are selected.
A strand is held by hand in accordance with the grip level selected according to the coloring scheme. They hold a hair dryer in the other hand and direct the air flow from the hair dryer through the strand.
The strand is pulled away in the direction of the hair cut according to the haircut, gradually blowing out short, medium, longer and longest hairs from it, resulting in the required number of layers of hair resulting from blowing. At the same time, the hair dryer should be cold in order to avoid injuring the hair. By making the grip level higher, the next layer is blown out. From each strand, a certain number of layers is obtained, preferably from 1 to 3 layers. Each obtained layer is clamped.
On the obtained long layer of hair, a coloring formula is applied in accordance with the coloring scheme. The colored layer of hair is wrapped in foil. All first layers of all hair strands in each section are colored and wrapped. On the second (short) layer of hair, a coloring formulas applied in accordance with the coloring scheme and the hair layer is separated by foil. Thus, all subsequent layers of all hair strands in each section are colored and wrapped. The strands are colored, either a few centimeters from the roots or right next to the root, depending on the indication on the coloring diagram to obtain the desired effect.
To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, a color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern.
Pause is kept which is sufficient for the color to deposit.
The color formulas are rinsed off of the hair.
The colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
The hair is treated according to a given post-coloring method.

EXAMPLE 5

The hairdresser examines the condition of the hair to be colored. In this case, it is a haircut of the same length, a bob. The client needs a correction of previously colored hair. The activity of the phases of hair growth allows the hairdresser to select two layers of 21, 22 with two grip levels. A coloring chart is shown in FIG. 3.
The hairdresser selects the scheme “rhombus” separation of hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 7). Separation of hair into sections according to the rhombus scheme is taken out as described above.
Each strand of hair in each zone is fixed with a clip.
A strand is held by hand in accordance with the grip level selected according to the coloring scheme. The hairdresser holds a hair dryer in the other hand and direct the air flow from the hair dryer through the strand.
The strand is pulled away in the direction of cutting the hair in the fingers according to the haircut. Short hair is blown out, resulting in a long layer of hair in the hairdresser's hands. The resulting layer is fixed.
On the obtained long layer of hair, a color formula is applied in accordance with the 6N (medium brown) coloring chart, in subsequent sections, in accordance with the grip level indicated in the diagram, lighter tones are applied: in the middle section—7N+8N (light brown+blond), at the ends 9N+10N (bright blond+platinum blond). The hairdresser wraps the colored layer of hair in foil. Thus, all the first layers of hair strands in each section are colored. On the second (short) layer of hair, a color formula is applied in accordance with the coloring diagram, for example, 6N at the root and the subsequent section—7N+8N (light blond+blond), and the hair layer is separated by foil. In this way, the second layers of hair strands are colored in each section. The hairdresser colors the strands, retreating a few centimeters from the roots.
Pause is kept which is sufficient for the coloring the hair. To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, a color formula in the form of a zigzag pattern is applied to the hair strands.
The colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades. Then the color formulas are rinsed off the hair and treated according to the post-coloring method.
The implementation of the method of coloring according to variant 3 with the separation of hair according to the scheme “square” (FIG. 8A-8D).
This method is suitable for haircuts with bangs, and for hair trimmed with a cascade (bob).
In addition, the method with the separation of hair according to the “square” scheme solves the problem of obtaining a more uniform color from roots to ends, a more even blond.
The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the amount of layers needed and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain the desired result on the hair. The coloring pattern is visually presented in the form of a coloring diagram.
A “square” pattern divides hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head.
The sections constructed from the anatomical points of the head are formed from the hair using parting (FIG. 8A-D).
To facilitate access to the layers and the possibility of obtaining the desired result on the colored hair, the FPZ is divided into diagonal, vertical and horizontal parting lines, highlighting the central section “square”. To do this, through the highest point of the crown (HPC), the central radial 10 and the central vertical 11 partings are drawn;

through the lower points of the temple (LPT) and the point of occipitalis (O) a horizontal parting 12 is created (FIG. 8B);
the hairdresser draws two parallel partings from the upper points of the temple (UPT) to the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting 12 and then to the hairline on the lower occipital area;
from the midpoint of the crown (MPC) the hairdresser draws a horizontal line to the intersection with parallel lines of parting and get the central section “square” 14; the obtained intersection points are connected by diagonal lines with the midpoints of the temple (MPT) on the hairline of the parietal zone, creating the sectors first 15, second 16, third 17, fourth 18 of the square (FIG. 8A);
from the parting forming the vertical sides of the central section “square”, the central vertical parting 11 and horizontal parting 12, peripheral temporal-occipital sections 8 and 9 are obtained, relative to the central section “square”, constructed from the anatomical points of the head.

The lower occipital area, located under the horizontal parting 12, has a small surface. The implementation of coloring methods suggests the presence of diagonal sections, which allow the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the color layers of the hair. To do this, the hairdresser draws a diagonal line on the horizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline on the lower occipital area; creates peripheral lower occipital sections 19 and 20, built on the anatomical points of the head. Hair in those sections are divided into strands taking into account the direction of hair growth in that sections shown in FIG. 8A-E, namely:

in the lower occipital section 1, the direction of the strands along the diagonal line;
in the lower occipital section 20, the direction of the strands perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the lower occipital sections;
in the temporal-occipital sections 8 and 9, the direction of the strands is in the direction of natural hair growth;
in sectors 15, 16, 17, 18 the central section is “square” 14 the direction of the strands is radial with respect to the intersection of the diagonals of the square.

Each strand is fixed. In accordance with the selected coloring scheme the grip level is selected. The other hand holds the hair dryer and directs the air flow from the hair dryer through the strand, which is pulled away perpendicular to the surface of the head, gradually blowing out of it in stages short, medium, longer and longest hair, with the result that the necessary number of layers of hair is obtained by blowing out. From each strand, a certain number of layers is created, preferably 1 to 3 layers. Each of those layers are fixed in place.
The resulting hair layer is colored according to the coloring scheme and separated by foil, thus working through all the layers of strands of hair in each section.
To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, a color formula in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern is applied to the hair strands.
Pause is kept which is sufficient for the color to deposit.
The color formulas are rinsed off of the hair.
The colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
The hair is treated according to the post-coloring method.

EXAMPLE 6

The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers needed and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain the desired result on the hair, in this case, it is cascading hair for its first time coloring. The desire is to get a smooth transition from a darker color at the roots to very light at the ends of the hair. The hairdresser selects the “square” scheme of dividing hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 8A-D). Separation of hair according to the “square” scheme is taken out as described above.
The hair is divided into strands in each zone and each strand is clamped. The activity of the phases of hair growth allows the hairdresser to select two layers of 21, 22 with two grip levels (FIG. 3).
The hairdresser grabs a strand and holds it in the fingers pulled away in the direction of the haircut. Shorter hair layers below the grip level are blown down with a hairdryer from the strand. Each layer is fixed with a clamp.
They the process of hair coloring starts.
On each layer (FIG. 6) a darker tone at the roots and transition to a light tone (blond) at the ends of the strands is desired. By expanding the short layer 22 on the side of the long 21 layer of the strand, a coloring diagram is created (FIG. 6), indicating the color tone numbers in each section of the layer according to the coloring scheme. On the long layer 21 in the area closest to the root, the color 6N (medium brown) is indicated, in the middle section the color is 8N (blonde), and at the ends, 10N (platinum blonde). Correspondingly, on a short layer 22, in the area closest to the roots, color 6N (medium brown) is indicated, at the ends corresponding to the middle section of the base layer, 7N (light brown).
A color formula is applied to the obtained hair layers in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil. Pause is kept which is sufficient for the color to deposit. To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, a color formula in the form of a zigzag pattern is applied to the hair strands.
Then the color formulas are rinsed off the hair and treated according to the post-coloring method.
As a result of coloring, a uniform transition of tones from roots to ends is obtained, an even blond.
The implementation of the method of coloring according to variant 4 with the separation of hair according to the “triangle” (FIG. 9A-D).
This variant of the method makes it possible to obtain lighter strands around the face and along the contour of hair growth, while leaving the top darker. This allows the hairdresser to get smoothest color stretching, which hich is suitable for both hair of the same length and for a haircut in the style of a cascade.
The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers needed and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain the desired result on the hair. The color formula pattern is visually presented in the form of a coloring diagram.
To facilitate access to the layers and the possibility of obtaining the desired result on the colored hair, the FPZ are divided by parting lines, obtaining the central section “triangle”, and peripheral sections, relative to the central section “triangle”, built on the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 9A-E).
To do this, through the highest point of the crown (HPC), the central radial 10 and the central vertical 11 partings are drawn;

through the lower points of the temple (LPT) and the lower point of the crown (LPC) a horizontal parting 12 is made (FIG. 9B);
two parallel partings are drawn from the upper points of the temple (UPT) to the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting 12 and then to the hairline on the lower occipital area;
from the center point (CP) lines are drawn to the intersection with the PP on the radial parting 10 with the continuation to the intersection with the horizontal parting 12 and the central “triangle” section 26 is obtained;
from the upper points of the temple through the upper point of the crown (HPC) a sickle shaped parting 23 is created; lateral 24, 25 sectors and one central sector 26 of the “triangle” section of the parietal zone are created (FIG. 9C);
the extended lines of the sides of the “triangle”, the central vertical parting 11 and horizontal parting 12 form sections 27, 28 of the upper occipital area;
the sections between the lines of the sickle shaped parting 23, bordering the lateral sectors of the “triangle” 24, 25, the horizontal parting 12 and the lines of the sides of the “triangle” form the peripheral sections 29, 30 of the temporal-occipital zone, constructed from the anatomical points of the head.

The lower occipital zone, located under the horizontal parting 12, has a small surface, in addition, swirls are often observed in this zone, which change the natural growth of hair, which causes difficulties for working on it. The implementation of the coloring method according to the invention involves diagonal sections that allow the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair. To do this, draw a diagonal line 31 (FIG. 9D) from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline on the lower occipital area; receive peripheral lower occipital sections 32 and 33, built on the anatomical points of the head;

strands of hair starting from sections are distinguished with a direction, namely:
in the lower occipital section 32, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections;
in the lower occipital section 33, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the occipital sections;
in the temporal- occipital sections 29, 30, the direction of the strands from the central point (CP) to the horizontal parting 12;
in sections 27, 28 of the upper occipital area, the direction of the strands is radial from the center point (CP) to the horizontal parting 12;
in the lateral 24, 25 sectors from the central sector of the “triangle”, the direction of the strands is radial from the central point (CP) to the sickle shaped parting;
in the central sector 26 of the “triangle”, the direction of the strands is parallel to the radial parting 10, because the direction of the hair in this zone splits back and forth.

A strand is held by hand in accordance with the grip level selected according to the coloring scheme. With the other hand, the hairdresser holds the hair dryer and direct the air flow from the hair dryer through the strand, which is pulled away in the direction of the haircut, gradually blowing out short, medium, long and longer hair from it, resulting in blowing out the required number of layers of hair. The hair dryer should be cold in order to avoid injuring the strand. By making the strand grip higher, the next layer is blown out. From each strand, a certain number of layers is obtained, preferably from 1 to 3 layers. Each obtained layer is fixed with foil or a clamp. Then the hairdresser proceeds to the process of hair coloring.
A coloring formula is applied to the obtained hair layer in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil, thus working out all layers of hair strands in each section.
To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, a color formula in the form of a horizontal zigzag pattern is applied to the hair strands.
Pause is kept which is sufficient for the color to deposit.
The color formulas are rinsed off of the hair.
The colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
The hair is treated according to the post-coloring procedure.

EXAMPLE 7

The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers and draws a coloring scheme to obtain the desired result on the hair, which is in this case to get more light strands around the face and along the contour of hair growth, leaving the top darker. The color formula pattern is visually presented in the form of a coloring diagram.
In this case, the hair has a cascading style, and it is the first coloring of the hair. The hairdresser selects the scheme “triangle” for dividing hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 9A-D).
Separation of hair according to the “triangle” scheme is taken out as described above.
The hair is divided into strands in each zone and each strand is clamped. The activity of the phases of hair growth allows the hairdresser select two layers 21, 22 (FIG. 6) with two grip levels.
The hairdresser grabs a strand and pull it away in the direction of the cut of hair. Shorter hair layers below the grip level are blown out from the strand with a hairdryer. Each layer is fixed in place with a clamp.
Then the hairdresser proceeds to the process of coloring.
In sections near the face and along the contour of hair growth, a long layer is colored with a tone of 10N (platinum blond), a short layer is colored with a tone of 9N (bright blond).
In the rest, the coloring section is taken out according to the coloring scheme in Example 1. On a long layer 21, in the area closest to the root, color 6N (medium blond) is applied, in the middle area color 8N (blond) is applied, at the ends—10N (platinum blond). Correspondingly, on a short layer 22, in the area closest to the roots, color 6N (medium brown) is applied, at the ends corresponding to the middle section of the base layer,—7N (light brown).
A coloring formula is applied to the obtained hair layers in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil. Pause is kept which is sufficient for the coloring the hair. To smooth out rough transitions of tones between the strands after coloring, a color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal or zigzag pattern. Then the color formulas are rinsed off the hair, and the hair is treated according to the post-coloring procedure.
As a result of coloring, more light strands are obtained around the face and along the contour of hair, and the top is left darker, with a smooth transition of tones, due to the fact that layers of darker tones are added to the strands with lightened layers, which gives a new interesting effect.
The implementation of the method of coloring according to variant 5 with the separation of hair according to the scheme “horseshoe” (FIG. 10A-D).
This variant of the method makes it possible to set different patterns on the hair. Changing the grip level in each strand, it is possible to achieve tangible visible glare and more distinctly colored strands. It is suitable both for hair of the same length and for hair cut in a cascade style (bob).
The hairdresser studies the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers needed and draws up a coloring scheme in the form of a coloring diagram to obtain the desired result on the hair.
To facilitate access to the layers and the possibility of obtaining the desired result on the colored hair, the FPZ is divided by parting lines, forming the central section of the “horseshoe”, and peripheral sections, relative to the central section of the “horseshoe”, constructed from the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 10A-D).
To do this, through the highest point of the crown (HPC) the central radial parting 10 and the central vertical parting 11 are made (FIG. 10B);

through the lower points of the temple (LPT) and the point of occipitalis (O) a horizontal parting 12 is made;
two parallel partings are made from the upper points of the temple (UPT) to the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting 12 and then to the hairline on the lower occipital area;
two lines parallel to the radial parting 10 are drawn from the central point (CP) through the central parting 11 at an equal distance to the intersection with parallel parting starting from the upper points of the temple (UPT), and two rectangular sections are created—parietal 34 and parietal-occipital 35;
the hairdresser draws a line from the center point (CP) to the point of intersection with the boundary line of the parietal section and get a triangular section 36;
from the intersection points (PP) of the parallel parting with the border line of the parieto-occipital section 35, a sickle shaped parting 37 is drawn through the midpoint of the crown and the upper occipital section 38 is obtained (FIG. 10C);
the parietal section 34, the parietal-occipital section 35, and the rounded upper-occipital section 38 form the central horseshoe section.

The middle occipital zone, located under the sickle shaped parting and above the horizontal parting 12, has a complex relief, repeating the base of the skull, hair growth in the middle down to the neck, right and left in the direction of the auricles, which makes it difficult to work on it. The implementation of the coloring method according to the invention involves diagonal parting, which allows the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair. A diagonal line 39 is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the sickle shaped parting to the projection point (PP) on the horizontal parting 12; thus two peripheral parietal-upper occipital sections 40 and 41 are obtained, built on the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 10D).
The lower occipital zone, located under the horizontal parting 12, has a small surface, in addition, vortices are often observed in this zone, which change the natural growth of hair, which causes difficulties for working on it. The implementation of the coloring method according to the invention involves diagonal parting, which allows the hairdresser to create stepless transitions of the colored layers of hair. To do this, a diagonal line 42 is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting 12 to the projection point (PP) on the hairline on the lower occipital area; two peripheral lower occipital sections 43 and 44 are obtained, built on the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 10D, E);

strands of hair from these sections are separated from each other with a direction, namely:
in the lower occipital section 43, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line 42 separating the occipital sections;
in the lower occipital section 44, the direction of the strands is almost perpendicular to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections;
in the temporal- occipital sections 40 and 41, the direction of the strands from the central point (CP) to the horizontal parting 12;
in section 36 of the parietal zone, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line dividing the parietal sections;
in section 34 of the parietal zone, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the parietal sections;
in the parietal-occipital section 35, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the direction of the strands in the adjacent parietal zone 34;
in the upper occipital section 38, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the direction of the strands in the parietal-occipital section 35.

A strand is held by hand in accordance with the grip level selected according to the coloring scheme. With the other hand, the hairdresser holds the hair dryer and directs the air flow from the hair dryer through the strand, which is pulled away in the direction of cutting the hair in the haircut, gradually blowing short, medium, long and longer hair from it, resulting in blowing out the required number of layers of hair. The hair dryer should be cold in order to avoid injuring of the strand. Making the grip of the strand higher blow the next layer. From each strand, a certain number of layers is obtained, preferably from 1 to 3 layers. Each obtained layer is fixed with foil or clamp.
Then the hairdresser proceeds to the process of hair coloring.
A coloring formula is applied to the obtained hair layers in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil, thus working out all layers of hair strands in each section.
To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, a color formula in the form of a zigzag pattern is applied to the hair strands.
Pause is kept which is sufficient for the color to deposit.
The color formulas are rinsed off of the hair.
The colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
The hair is treated according to the post-coloring procedure.

EXAMPLE 8

The hairdresser examines the condition of the hair to be colored, determines the number of layers and draws up a coloring scheme to obtain the desired result on the hair. In this case, with hair of the same length, bob, for instance, for its primary dying.
The hairdresser selects the “horseshoe” scheme for dividing hair into zones according to the anatomical points of the head (FIG. 10). Separation of hair according to the “horseshoe” scheme is taken out as described above.
The hair is divided into strands in each zone and each strand is fixed in place. The activity of the phases of hair growth allows the hairdresser to select two layers 21, 22 (FIG. 5) with two grip levels.
The hairdresser grabs a strand and pulls it away in the direction of the cut of hair. Shorter hair layers below the grip level are blown with a hairdryer from the strand. Each layer is fixed with a clamp.
The hairdresser then proceeds to the process of hair coloring.
On each layer (FIG. 6), it is supposed to color the strands with a darker tone at the roots and transition to a light tone (blond) at the ends of the strands. By expanding the middle 22, shorter layer on the side of the long 21 layer of the strand, and the third, shortest layer 23 on the other side of the long 21 layer of the strand, a coloring diagram is built (FIG. 6), indicating the tone number in each section of the layer according to the coloring formula. On the long layer 21, the color of the primary dying is applied: in the area closest to the root, 6N (medium blond), in the middle area the color is 8N (blonde), at the ends—10N (platinum blonde). Correspondingly, on the middle, shorter layer 22 in the area closest to the roots, the color 6N (medium brown) is applied, at the ends corresponding to the middle section of the base layer—7N+8N (light brown+blonde). Accordingly, on the short third layer 23 in the area closest to the roots, the color 6N (medium brown) is applied, at the ends corresponding to the middle section of the base layer—7N (light brown). A coloring formula is applied to the obtained hair layers in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil, thus working out all layers of hair strands in each section.
The strands are colored, retreating a few centimeters from the root each time.
To ensure a smooth transition between strands from one color to another, a color formula is applied to the hair strands in the form of a horizontal pattern.
The hairdresser waits a sufficient amount of time for the coloring the hair.
The color formula is rinsed off of the hair.
Colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.
The hair is treated according to the post-coloring procedure.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY

The proposed coloring method can be applied in beauty salons using well-known color formulas, to obtain the predicted desired result on blond hair, with a smooth transition from dark to light hair tone and high variability of coloring.
As a result of the implementation of the proposed method, the maximum preservation of the quality of the hair is achieved with any kind of lightening and with any correction of the root area.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A method of coloring of hair on a head of a person using a blow dryer blowing hair layers from a strand, comprising the following steps:

a hairdresser makes a coloring scheme;

sections of the hair are separated with partings; the sections are based on anatomical points of the head;

from the hair starting in the sections, strands with a direction that takes into account a direction of hair growth in the given section are isolated;

depending on activity of hair growth phases corresponding to the layers of hair, grip levels in the strand are selected;

the hairdresser grabs the strand by hand in accordance with the grip level selected according to the coloring scheme;

the hairdresser holds the hair dryer in another hand and directs an air flow from the hair dryer through a strand, which is pulled away in a direction of a cut line of the hair in a haircut, gradually blowing out layers of hair below the grip level, resulting in the layers of hair to be colored being blown out;

each obtained layer is fixed, including top layer which was in the hand;

a color formula is applied to the hair layers in accordance with the coloring scheme and separated by foil, thus working out all layers of hair strands in each section;

pause is kept which is sufficient for the color formulas to deposit; then

color formulas are rinsed off, and hair is treated according to a given post-coloring recipe.

2. The method according to claim 1, wherein blown our layers correspond to hair having another phase of growing; a shorter layer corresponds to younger hair.

3. The method according to claim 2, wherein two layers are formed in some or each strand in some or each section.

4. The method according to claim 2, wherein three layers are formed in some or each strand in some or each section; out of which two layers have different length and are shorter than the top layer which was in the hand.

5. The method according to claim 2, wherein the method includes formation of one layer coloring in one part, two layer coloring in another part, and three layer coloring in another part of the hair on the head of the person.

6. The method according to claim 1, wherein to ensure a smooth transition between the strands from one color to another, the color formula is applied to the hair strands in a form of a horizontal or a zigzag pattern.

7. The method according to claim 1, wherein after coloring, colored strands are tinted to neutralize unwanted shades.

8. The method according to claim 1, wherein the coloring scheme is presented as a coloring diagram, which is a graphic representation of the hair strands in a form of an elongated base triangle, a base of the triangle is a basal hairline; a top of the triangle is an end of the hair strand, and a smaller triangle is applied to the elongated base triangle, the smaller triangle corresponding to a next hair layer, and the smaller triangle of the next layer is spread beyond the base triangle, while on each triangle-layer a border of a root area is marked, boundaries of coloring areas are marked; a formula, numbers of color formulas and their ratios on each section of the layer are also marked.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein the coloring scheme is formed by the following steps:

a central section in a form of a rhombus is formed, and peripheral sections relative to the central section of the rhombus are formed, the peripheral sections being based on anatomical points of the head, for which:

through a highest point of a crown (HPC), a central radial parting and a central vertical parting are drawn;

the hairdresser draws two parallel partings from upper points of a temple (UPT) to projection points (PP) on the central radial parting;

a line segment equal to a distance from the HPC to the PP on the central radial parting is measured and laid from the PP to an intersection with the central vertical parting of the projection, thus two sides of the rhombus are created; a segment equal to a segment from the HPC to a top of the two resulting sides is laid on another side of the central radial parting; a resulting point is connected with a parting with the PP and thus get the central section in the form of the rhombus from the hair on the head of the person;

from the parting forming rear sides of the central rhombus section, the central vertical parting and the central radial parting, two peripheral occipital sections, relative to the central rhombus section, are constructed based on anatomical points of the head;

from the two parallel front partings and the central radial parting, two peripheral temporal sections, relative to the central rhombus section, are constructed based on anatomical points of the head;

from the parting forming the front sides of the central rhombus section, the central vertical parting and two parallel front parting, two peripheral parietal sections are obtained, relative to the central rhombus section, constructed based on anatomical points of the head;

strands of hair starting from those sections are separated from each other with a direction that takes into account a direction of hair growth in the section;

in the occipital sections and parietal sections, the direction of the strands is parallel to corresponding sides of the rhombus section;

in the temporal sections, the direction of the strands is parallel to a hairline in a temporal area;

in the rhombus section, the direction of the strands is arbitrary.

10. The method of claim 1, wherein the coloring scheme is formed by the following steps:

a central section in a form of a square is created from the hair on the head of the person, and peripheral sections relative to the central section of the square are formed, built based on anatomical points of the head, for which:

through a highest point of a crown (HPC), a central radial parting and a central vertical parting are drawn,

through lower points of a temple (LPT) and a point of occipitalis (O), a horizontal parting is created;

the hairdresser draws two parallel partings from upper points of the temple (UPT) to projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting and then to a hairline on a lower occipital area;

from a midpoint of a crown (MPC), the hairdresser draws a horizontal line to an intersection with the parallel partings and thus get the central square section; the obtained intersection points are connected by diagonal lines with midpoints of the temples (MPT) on a hairline of a parietal zone, creating the first, second, third, and fourth sectors of the square;

from the partings forming vertical sides of the central square section, the central vertical parting and the central horizontal parting, two peripheral temporal-occipital sections, relative to the central square section, are formed based on anatomical points of the head;

the hairdresser draws a diagonal line from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting to the projection point (PP) on the hairline on a lower occipital area; create two peripheral occipital sections, built based on anatomical points of the head;

strands of hair starting from all sections are separated from each other with a direction that takes into account a direction of hair growth in the section:

in one occipital section, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line dividing the occipital sections;

in another occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the occipital sections;

in the temporal-occipital sections, the direction of the strands in the direction of natural hair growth;

in sectors of the central square section, the direction of the strands is radial with respect to an intersection of the diagonals of the square.

11. The method of claim 1, wherein the coloring scheme is formed by the following steps:

the central section in the form of a triangle is formed; and peripheral sections, relative to the central section of the triangle are formed, based on anatomical points of the head, for which:

through lower points of temples (LPT) and a lower point of the crown (LPC), a horizontal parting is drawn;

two parallel partings are drawn from upper points of the temples (UPT) to projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting and then to a hairline on a lower occipital area;

from a center point (CP) lines are drawn to an intersection with projection points (PP) on the central radial parting with a continuation to an intersection with the horizontal parting and thus get the central triangle section;

from the upper points of the temples through the upper point of the crown (UPC) a sickle parting is made; two lateral sectors and one central sector of the triangle section of a parietal zone are obtained;

extended lines of the sides of the triangle, the central vertical parting and horizontal parting form two sections of an upper occipital area;

sections between the sickle shaped partings, bordering the lateral sectors of the triangle, the horizontal parting and the sides of the triangle form peripheral sections of a temporal-occipital zone, based on anatomical points of the head;

a diagonal line is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting to the projection point (PP) on a hairline on a lower occipital area; get left and right peripheral lower occipital sections, based on anatomical points of the head;

strands of hair starting from all sections are separated with a direction that takes into account a direction of hair growth in each section:

in the left lower occipital section, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line separating the occipital sections;

in the right lower occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the occipital sections;

in the temporal-occipital sections, the direction of the strands from the center point (CP) to the horizontal parting;

in sections of the upper occipital area, the direction of the strands is radial from the center point (CP) to the horizontal parting;

in the lateral sectors from the central sector of the triangle, the direction of the strands is radial from the central point (CP) to the sickle shaped parting;

in the central sector of the triangle, the direction of the strands is parallel to the central radial parting.

12. The method of claim 1, wherein the coloring scheme is formed by the following steps:

a central section in a form of a horseshoe is formed; the peripheral, relative to the central section of the horseshoe, based on anatomical points of the head, for which:

through lower points of temples (LPT) and a point of occipitalis (O), a horizontal parting is made;

two parallel partings are made from upper points of the temple (UPT) to projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting and then to a hairline on a lower occipital area;

two lines parallel to the central radial parting are drawn from a central point (CP) through the central vertical parting at an equal distance to an intersection with the parallel parting starting from the upper points of the temple (UPT), and two rectangular sections are formed: a parietal section and a parietal-occipital section;

a line is drawn from the central point (CP) to a point of intersection with a boundary line of the parietal section and get a triangular section;

from an intersection points (IP) of the parallel parting with a boundary line of the parietal-occipital section, a sickle parting is drawn through a midpoint of the crown and an upper occipital section is obtained;

the parietal section, the parietal-occipital section, and the rounded upper-occipital section form the central horseshoe section;

a diagonal line is drawn from one of projection points (PP) on the sickle parting to the projection point (PP) on the horizontal parting; get two peripheral parietal-upper occipital sections, based on anatomical points of the head;

a diagonal line is drawn from one of the projection points (PP) on the horizontal parting to a projection point (PP) on a hairline on a lower occipital area; get left and right peripheral lower occipital sections, based on anatomical points of the head;

in the triangular section, the direction of the strands is parallel to the diagonal line separating the parietal sections;

in the parietal zone section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the diagonal line dividing the parietal sections;

in the parietal-occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the direction of the strands in an adjacent parietal zone;

in the upper occipital section, the direction of the strands is perpendicular to the direction of the strands in the parietal-occipital section.