US2010285A - Manufacture of straw hats - Google Patents

Description

- Aug. 6, 1935. WIEDEMAN 2,010,285

MANUFACTURE OF STRAW'HATS Filed April 22, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 //Vl E/VTOR osmiv \Jlckamam ATTORNEY Aug. 6, 1935.

0 WIEDEMAN MANUFACTURE OF STRAW HATS Filed April 22, 1932 2 Sheets-Sheet? M y a 5 a V r W r 5* s W a Patented Aug. 6, 1935 UNITED @STATES MANUFACTURE OF srrmw HATS Oscar Wiedeman, Fall River, .Mass., to

Philip Rosenberg, .Brooklyjm N.

. Application April 22, 1932, .Se'rialNo. 606,945

19 Claims. (01. 22394.11

This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture-of straw hats and particularly to a novel apparatus for shaping hats of the yacht or sailor type. a

It is an object of my invention to provide an improved method and apparatus for performing the shaping operations in the manufacture of straw hats. I further provide means whereby various steps in the manufacture which have heretofore been performed in succession may be simultaneously accomplished. It is my further ob ject to provide improved methods and apparatus of this character whereby the process of manufacture may be materially shortened, resulting in a substantial saving in the cost of production without sacrifice in the quality of the finished product.

In the manufacture of sailors as now practiced, the straw braid is first sewn roughly into the shape of the hat, the hats are stiffened with gelatine and are then dried. Theyare then moistened, treated with live steam and stretched over a form, on which they are ironed into shape through a wet cloth, or shaped by hand, from the outside. The hats are then removed from the form, and after drying they are again steamed slightly and put in ametal mold which has a matrix similar in shape to the form above referred to. Hydraulic pressure then expands a rubber bag inside the crown whereby the'hat is shaped to the mold. This hydraulic pressing operation results in considerable mashing or flattening of the braid. The hats are thenremoved from the mold, and are moistened or treated with live steam to raise the braid. This some times separates the braid in spots, and in any event it is customary to put the hat over a block of shape similar to the mold cavity and iron it through a wet cloth. The hats next go to a brimming machine to straighten and form the brim, after which they may be again steamed to raise the braid of the brim.

It has been proposed to expand a yielding", elastic surface within some types of hats by means other than hydraulic pressure, and also to press the sides of hats with a perforated shield while applying steam directly to the hat. Such proposals, however, have not proven applicable to mens stilf sailor straw hats.

My improved method andapparatus make it possible to dispense with a number of steps heretofore involved in the manufacture of sailor straw hats, and to accomplish in a single operation results which heretofore have required separate treatments. I make preliminary blocking unnecessary, and I providea shaping operation which avoids crushing-of the braid. In the same operation I maygive the hat' a sharp band line. My invention makes certain finishing operations unnecessaryf I I An embodiment of my'invention is illustrated in theiaccompan'ying drawings, in which,-

Fig. l is a'perspective view of a preferred form 0f press;

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the lower pressing mechanism;- Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the expansible shaping blockp I Fig.4 is an elevati'ompartly in section, ofthe press showing the upper and lower pressing members in working engagement; and

Fig. Sis an elevation of parts "of the lower pressing mechanism shown in releasing position. Referring' to-the drawings, and particularly to Fig. 1, my preferred form of press comprises in general a lower pressing mechanism, indicated generally at A, and an upper, vertically reciprocating pressing mechanism adapted to cooperate therewith andindicated generally at B. The base i of the press supports a casting 2 adapted to house the lower pressing mechanism as herein after described; j The upper pressing mechanism is supported by a horizontally swinging frame comprlsing'the uprights and 4 joined at their upper extremities by a cross head 5. The said frame is rotatably supported by thebase l'solely through the upright 3 which is journaled in the hollowed extension 5 of the base, thesaid upright'being provided with a rigidly' secured collar abutting the top surface'of the extension 8 and adapted to support the weight or the frameand the reciprocating parts carried thereby.- Ihe upright 3 may be screw threaded at its lower extremity to receive a nut i l to secure, firmly-but rotatab1y,the frame to-the base -I. Thus the operative may swing the vertically reciprocating pressing mechanism B fromthe position indicated in Fig. 1 to a position in which 'the-mechamsm-B is vertically aligned with the lower pressing mechanism A, during which swinging operation the upright will revolve in the arc of a circle the center of which lies in the axis of the upright 3, until the lower extremity of the upright 4 is received in the forked opening act the extension 9 of the frame as indicatedbyxthe'dashedlines in Fig.2. The frame may be locked in this closed position by means of the nut: ll, (Fig. 4) ,engaging the screwthreaded lower extremity of the upright l, which nut may be rotated to lock the frame in place by means of the integral hand lever I8. The cross head 5 carries at its extremities hollowed portions adapted to fit over the upper portion of the uprights 3 and 4 as indicated by the portion I2 secured, as shown, by means of the nut 13. Integral with the said hollowed portions are the U-shaped bearings l4 and I5 in which is journaled the shaft IS.

The uprights 3 and 4 are also joined by the reciprocating head 20, having at its extremities the bearings 2| and 22 adapted to slidably embrace the uprights 3 and 4. As hereinafter described, the reciprocating head 20 supports a brim pressing plate 23, adapted to be lowered into pressing engagement with the hat in place in the lower pressing mechanism A.

Vertical reciprocation of the head 20 and pressing mechanism carried thereby is effected by means of two toggles comprising the links 29 pivoted at 2'! to the head 20 and at 24 to the rocker arms 25 rigidly fixed to the shaft l6. Rotation of the shaft i6 is manually eifected by the lever 33 adjustably secured as by the bolt 33 to an extension of the shaft. The counterweights 32 are provided as shown to effectively balance the rotative effect on the arms 25 of the weight of the reciprocating cross head 20 and associated parts. In the pressing operation the lever 30 is depressed. until it engages a stop (not shown) extending into its path of travel, to straighten the toggle links in a manner well known to the art.

As indicated in Fig. 4 the brim pressing plate 23;is adjustably supported by the reciprocating head 20 by means of the hollow screw threaded member 40 integral with the brim plate 23 and received by an internally screw threaded portion 4! formed in the head 20. man obvious manner adjustment of the vertical distance between the brim plate 23 and the head 20 may be efiected by rotation of the plate 23 and the brim plate may be secured in such adjusted position by means of the set screw 42 extending into the interior of the screw threaded portion 4| and adapted to engage the screw threaded extension 40.

As stated above, the base I supports a casting 2 adapted to house the lower pressing mechanism A. As indicated in Fig. 4 the casting 2 is hollowed out at 50 to form a steam chest suitably connected to a supply of steam for heating the lower pressingmechanism. The said mechanism comprises in general an outer mold shaped to receive' the hat and an inner expansible shaping block adapted to be placed within the hat when the latter is in position in the outer mold, to expand against the interior of the hat to, eifect the desired pressing operation. The outer mold consists of a hollowed block divided into two separable sections 5| and 52 (Figs. 4 and 5), both of which sections are received by the upper part of the casting 2 and thereby firmly secured together to form in effect one continuous outer mold. As indicated in Fig. 5 the section 5| is received by thercasting 2, where it remains during the pressing operations of any number of hats of the size and shapefor which the mold is designed. The section 52, however, is removed during one step in each pressing operation and for this purpose section 52 is provided with a handle 53 by which it may be manually lifted from the casting 2. The section 52 is further provided with a recessed portion 54, the vertical edge 55 of which is adapted to rest against the inner edge 56 of the casting 2, which casting is cut away at 51 to facilitate separate removal of the member 52 and to act as a ledge to support the mold section when it is partially raised as indicated in Fig. 5. To resist dis-' placement of the mold section 52 during the expansion of the inner mold against it, aligned holes 59, (Fig. 5) are provided in the mold and casting into which one or more pegs 58 (Fig. 1) may fit. As an additional security against displacement of section 52, the locking band 98, pivoted at 99 and. I05 to the casting 2 is provided to revolve from its open position shown in Fig. 5 to its locking position of Fig. 1. v

In Fig. 4 the numeral 50 indicates a straw hat in place for a pressing operation at which time the hat is inserted in an inverted position, as indicated, with the tip 5i of the crown lowermost. As is well known, the crown of a sailor hat is generally slightly tapered from the point of intersection of the brim and crown to a slightly broader portion at the crown tip. It is because of this flaring formation of the hat crown that the outer mold is divided into removable sections, as the operator is thus enabled to remove the mold section and thereby remove the hat after pressing it to its final slightly flared shape within the mold.

The expansible shaping block, indicated generally as 95 in Fig. 3, which is placed within the crown of. the hat after the hat is in place in the outer mold comprises, as shown in detail in Fig. 3, a number of blocks l5 which are suitably shaped, as indicated, to conform to the above noted shape of the outer mold, which blocks 10 are of hollow construction, as indicated in Figs. 3 and 4. After the block sections iii are placed within the hat the central expanding core H is placed in the center of the blocks as indicated in Fig. 3. The core I l, which is substantially cubeshaped as shown, consists of a number of sections 12 substantially triangular in cross section which are yieldingly held together by springs or other suitable means as is known in the art. The assembled sections 12 are drilled in the center to form a tapered hole '13 as indicated in Fig. 4, into which hole may be forced the plunger M, tapered to conform to the hole l3, to effect the expansion of the members 72 and the contiguous blocks 13. In order that the thrust of the plunger it may not force the member ll downwardly independently of the hollowed blocks it, and thereby crush the center of the hat crown tip, I provide, in the inward face of each block section 75 a central. vertically extending plate it! having a vertical groove 9? open at its upper extremity and terminating in a shoulder H33. Projecting from each section l2 of the core ii is a lug 96 adapted to be received by its corresponding groove 5"! upon insertion of the core H centrally of the blocks ill and to abut the shoulder 563 to prevent downward displacement of the core 7! independent of the sections 15.

Within a screw-threaded hollow in the member 40 is screwed the hollow threaded member 9|, which at its lower extremity is integral with the centrally perforated spacing member 3 The wheel 92 is rigidly secured to the upper extremity of the threaded member 9! as a convenient means for rotating said threaded member within the threaded hollow in the member 48, to raise or lower the spacing member 84.

Similarly, the member 93 is screwed into a threaded hollow in the member 9 i. The threaded member 93 at its lower extremity is integral with and supports the plunger M. rigidly secured to the upper extremity of the member 93 to rotate said member within the screw-threaded hollow in the member 9! and thus raise or lower the plunger 74.

As indicated in Fig. l, the outer mold sections The wheel at is are provided with annular disc sections Ill and H which may be removably secured to their respective mold sections by suitable dowels. As indicated in l and 4 these disc sections act as a form or templet to restrain distortion of the edge of the brim during a pressing operation and to insure a brim of proper width and heat curvature.

The outer mold sections 5! and 52 are recessed at the upper part of their mold faces to receive a band 53 wh ch, as indicated, protrudes a, slight distance above the plane of the inner mold brim faces. I 7

As shown in Fig. 4 the upper surfaces 82 of the inner block sections IE! and the brim surface 83 of the outer mold sections 51 are substantially in the same plane when a hat is in place for the pressing operation. In order to force the block downwardly to exert pressure against the crown tip 6! of the hat, I interpose. the. centrally perforated spacing member 84 above described.

In utilizing my apparatus, I may proceed as followszlhe braid is sewn and the hats sized and dried in the usual manner. The hat is then slightly moistened and steamed, and without the preliminary blocking or shaping operation heretofore universally practiced, I place the hat di rectly in the outer mold. To accomplish this, the upper mechanism B is swung back on its pivot in the extension 6 into the position shown in Fig. 1. The crown of the hat is placed upside down in the outer mold and the rows of braid are straightened out from. the inside of the crown. I next insert within the crown, in the manner above described, the expansible shaping block 90. The upper mechanism B is then swung forward and the upright 4 is locked in the opening 8. In this position the plunger 74 registers with the opening 13 in the center piece of the block 99. The reciproca ing head 2%! is then brought down'over the lower mechanism A by means of the lever 30. This forces the plunger 74 into the tapered opening in the core H, separating the blocks 10 and exerting horizontal rigid pressure from within the crown of the hat upon the sides of the crown, thus conforming them to the contour of the outer mold.

Simultaneously, the spacing or presser member 5% contacts the top of the block 90, and the re-- sulting vertical pressure causes the bottom of the 1 block 9& to press down upon the top of the crown or" the hat from the inside, conforming the top of the hat to the bottom of the outer mold. At the same time, the brim plate 23 comes into contact with the hat brim, flattening the same and causing the relatively sharp protruding edge of theband 52 to press into the hat at the juncture of the brim and crown, giving the hat asharp band line.

The diameter of the plunger 14 and its vertical adjustment are such that when the lever 30 reaches the end of its downward arc, the plunger will have expanded the block 9E2 horizontally until the sides of this block are the proper distance from the sides of the outer mold, this distance being equal to or slightly less than the thickness The pressure thus exerted is concentrated at those points where extra pressure iscnecessary, as for example-where the tip and sides of the crown meet, and is exerted to a less extent on points which readily conform to the contour of the mold. Crushing of the braid is avoided.

After remaining in the press for one to two minutesway about a minute and a half--the hat maybe removed. When removed, the crown is perfectly dry, having been dried by direct contact with the dry heated metal surfaces both inside and outside. No difiiculty from sticking of the hat. to the mold Willbe experienced. The hat is readily removedand if desired it may be moistened. smoothed andflnished and the process of manufacture is then complete.

Various aspects of my novel process have been incorporated in a co-pe'nding application, Serial No. '746,70l, filed October 3, .1934. i 7

When the expansible shaping block 9Ei is constructed of metal (for example aluminum), as in my preferred form, the heat from the outer mold is readily communicated to this metal and is uniformly conducted throughout the shaping block. Contact of a moist hat with a rubber surface, as involved in the shaping operation prior to my invention, has been found to draw the glue out from the center of the straw braids. But my uniformly heated metal surface does not draw out the glue. This surface further dries the hat. I am enabled to employ less pressure than was heretofore used in the shaping operation, whereby the braids are not mashed or deformed.

When in this specification and in the appended claims reference is made to an expansible block, this expansibility is to be understood as derived from the construction of the block whereby portions of the same may be forced away from other portions, and the outside dimensions of the thusseparated biock are increased to the extent of such separation. The word expand is similarly used.

My method and apparatus enable me materially to shorten the process of manufacture of sailor straw hats and at the same time to produce a hat of the highest quality.' I' obviate the necessity for preliminary blocking and for certain finishing operations. When using my method and apparatus, it is possible to operate at full plant capacity with only one-third the number of hats in process which are required underpresent methods. The saving in amount of capital tied up in hats in the process of manufacture, and of plant space, is obvious.

What I claim is:-

1. In a hat shaping apparatus, the combination of a mold adapted to engage exterior surfaces of a hat, provided with a circumferential edge extending beyond the brim surface of said mold, and means for pressing the brim of a hat against the said edge.

2. As'elements in a hat shaping apparatus, the

combination of a plurality of separate shaping blocks whose combined peripheral surfaces, when in pressing position within' the hat, conform to the tapering shape of the inner surface of the hat crown from top to brim, which blocks, when in pressing position, present spaced inner faces combining to form anaperture adapted to receive an expansible core, a core having outer faces adapted to press against the inner faces of the combined blocks when the core is in'pos ition'centrally disposed of the assembled pressing blocks, a vertically extending groove in the inner face of each block terminating in a shoulder and a lug projecting from each outer face of the core and adapted to be slidably received by its corresponding groove and to abut the shoulder to prevent relative displacement of the core and block beyond a predetermined limit.

3. .In an apparatus for shaping straw hats, the combination of a mold divided into separable sections and adapted to receive the crown of a straw hat, a sectional expansible block adapted to fit within the crown of the hat when in the mold, a core within the said block, which core has outer faces adapted to press against the inner faces of the said block to expand the same, a circumferential edge extending beyond the brim surface of the mold at the juncture of the brim and crown of the hat and a templet adapted to confine edges of the brim, and means for simultaneously expanding said block, pressing the block against the inner top of the crown and pressing the hat brim against the said circumferential edge while the brim edge is confined by the said templet. I

4. As elements in an apparatus for shaping sailor straw hats, a shaping block of heat conductive metal comprising a plurality of hollow sections presenting a combined peripheral surface conforming in shape to the desired shape of the inner surface of the hat crown, said sections presenting inner faces, an expansible core slidingly abutting and adapted to press against the said inner faces to separate the same and expand the hollow metal block, and means for applying heat by conduction to the said block.

5. As elements in an apparatus for shaping a straw hat, a shaping block divided into sections, said block having side and crown pressing surfaces and being adapted to press the sides and top of a hat crown, and an expansible core within said block for pressing the top of the hat crown and for radially separating the sections of said shaping block to press the same against the sides of the hat crown.

6. As elements in a hat-shaping apparatus, an expansible shaping block divided into sections, said block having side and crown pressing surfaces and being adapted to press the inner sides and top of a, hat crown, and having a removable expansible core adapted to expand the said shap ing block and tending to cause separate sections of said block to exert equal pressure on the hat crown.

'7. As elements in a hat shaping apparatus, a shaping block divided into sections, an expansible core for radially separating the sections of said block, said core being provided with a tapering orifice, a tapered plunger adapted to be received by the said orifice and when forced into said orifice to expand the core to separate radially the sections of the shaping block.

8. As elements in a hat shaping apparatus, an expansible shaping block for pressing the sides and top of the crown of a hat, an expansible core and means for expanding said core to expand said block to exert pressure on the sides of a hat crown, and an independently adjustable presser member adapted to abut said block and core and sectional block adapted to press the sides and top.

of a hat crown, a tapered plunger and an expansible core adapted to be received within said block and to receive said plunger, said core acting by expansion to translate vertical motion of the plunger into horizontal motion of the sections of the said block and tending to equalize the pressure exerted by individual sections of said block upon the hat crown.

10. As elements in an apparatus for shaping a straw hat, a shaping block divided into sections, an expansible core for radially separating the sections of said block to press the same against the sides of a hat crown and a presser member for efiecting thrust of the shaping block against the tip of the hat crown.

11. As elements in an apparatus for shaping a straw hat, a shaping block divided into sections, an expansible core for radially separating the sections of said block to press the same against the sides of a hat crown and means for preventing downward movement beyond a predetermined point of the expansible core relative to the shaping block.

.12. As elements in an apparatus for shaping a straw hat, a shaping block divided into sections, an expansible core for radially separating the sections of said block to press the same against the sides of a hat crown and means for preventing downward movement of the expansible core relative to the shaping block beyond a predeterminedpoint, which means includes vertical grooves terminating in shoulders in the inner surface of each outer shaping block section and lugs on the outer faces of the central core, said lugs adapted to slide within said slots and to abut said shoulders to prevent further downward movement of the core independently of said block.

13. In a hat shaping apparatus, the combination of a mold adapted to engage exterior surfaces of a hat, an expansible shaping block adapted to be received by the hat when in place in the mold, pressure applying means for expanding the block against the sides of the crown and forcing the same downwardly against the seat of the mold for shaping a hat to the form desired, and a templet for shaping and preventing distortion in the edge of the brim during the pressing operationi I 14. In a hat shaping apparatus, the combination of a mold adapted to engage exterior surfaces of a hat, an expansible shaping block adapted to be received by the hat when in place in the mold and pressure applying means for expanding the block against the sides of the crown and forcing the same downwardly against the seat of the mold for shaping a hat to the form desired, said pressure applying means being provided with means for adjusting to predetermined limits the clearance between the side and bottom surfaces of the block and the corresponding surfaces of the mold at the limit of the pressing thrust.

15. As elements in an apparatus for shaping a straw hat, an outer mold adapted to receive the crown of a hat, said mold tapering from the top of the crown toward the brim and being divided into separable sections, an inner mold adapted to be received by the said outer mold and by the crown of a hat in place within said outer mold, said inner mold comprising an expansible shaping block divided into separable sections and a core disposed within said block, and means for expanding said core and said block to press the sides of the crown of a hat against the sides of the outer mold.

16. Apparatus as described in claim 15, includinga pressing member abutting the inner mold and its core and adapted to press the same against the top of the hat crown.

17. In a hat shaping apparatus, the combination of a mold adapted to receive the crown of a hat, a sectional expansible block adapted to fit within the crown of the hat when in the mold, an expansible core within the said block, means to expand said core to press the block against the crown of the hat, a presser member adapted to abut said block and press the same against the top of the crown of the hat and a pressing member for exerting pressure on the underside of the brim of a hat in the mold.

18. In a hat shaping apparatus, a female mold adapted to receive the crown of a hat, a male mold adapted to be received within the female mold and within the crown of the hat, a presser member for pressing said male mold against the top of the crown of a hat in place in the female mold and a brim pressing plate for pressing the underside of the brim of said hat, said presser member and said brim pressing plate being relatively adjustable to control the pressures respectively exerted thereby upon the hat.

19. Apparatus as described in claim 18, including a tapered plunger adapted to expand the male mold, said plunger being adjustable relative to said presser member and said brim pressing plate.

OSCAR WIEDEMAN.

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