US2009875A - Means for drafting shoe heels - Google Patents

Description

July 30, 1935. G. cLAUsNG 2,009,875

MEANS FOR DRAFTING SHOE HEELS Filed Oct. 9, 1931' 3 Sheets-Sheet l ATTORNEYS v July f'lf 1935..

G. CLAUSING MEANS FOR DRFTING SHOE H EELS Filed Oct. 9, 1931 `5 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

ATTORNEY.; Q

.My 3Q, 1935 G. cLAuslNG K MEANS FOR DRAFTING SHOE HEELS Filed Oct. 9, 1931 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 1N VEN TOR. emga (Zwaag ATTORNEX` Patented July 30, 1935 UNITED- STATES 2,009,875 MEANS Fon DRAWINGA sHoE nEELs George Clausing, Portsmouth, AOhio; assignor to The VulcanJ Corporation; Portsmouth; Ohio, a

corporation of Ohio Y Application October 9, 1931, Serial No.V 567,934

11v Claims.

My invention relates yto means employed to machine,` showingthe outline of a shoe last and .two different styles,one in solid lines and the determine the proper angleszand, design of a shoe heel from a last to be used in themanufacture of a particular. style of shoe for which the heel is intended.

It is an object of my invention to provide a mechanical means for determining the degree of wedge of the heel of the last and the spring of the toe.

It is another object of my invention to provide a mechanical means for determining the degree of Wedge of a heel of the last with a given spring of the toe and then to transfer these determined dimensions to a graphical chart, determining the line of degree of wedge directly from the mechanical means so as to provide a pattern and atemplate to produce the desired heel.

Another object of my invention is to provide an interchangeable and adjustable means for determining the outlines of different types of heels with a means for making a graphical representation from which the shoe heel can be completelydesigned, and which can be retained asa permanent record for duplication,

Another object is to provide a machine in which it is possible to set the parts thereof so that the heel height, and the degree of wedge andthe toespring of a last can be measured directly for the purpose of designing a heel for a shoe.

Another object of my invention is to provide a chart to be used with the shoe heel drafting machine, and on whichdefinite lines may be defined by placing the machine on the chart, for graphically outlining the pattern of the shoev last and the position of essentialv contour determining points of a heel whereby to permit completion of the design of the heel which conforms to the particular style of shoes as indicated by the shoe last pattern outlined on the chart.

These and other objects will befmore specifically pointed out in the description of a preferred embodiment of my invention as illustratedin the drawings, in which:

Figure l is a side elevation of the machine showing a last in position thereon.

Fig. 2 is a similar View ofthe machine, showing how the protractor is appliedin order to determine the degree of wedge of the heel.

Fig. 3 is a similar View ofthe machine, showing the use of the protractor for determining the height of a heel.

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the machine.

Fig. 5 is a left endview of the base plate, legs and toe-spring plate.

33-3) f A' Fig., 6 shows a chart that is; to be used with the other in dotted lines, of heels that would be appropriate for a shoe made to that last.v 'I'he heel 5 shown in solid lines is a Cuban heel, andthe heel shown in dotted lines is a Louis heel, there being two diierent lip lengthsshown for this last named heel. n Y

As shown inthe drawings, I have provided a 10 measuring instrumentincluding a base plate I having dependingrlugs' 2 near opposite ends with pins 3 pivotally attaching pairs of legs 4 at the respective ends to jsupport the base plate I in horizontal positionvas shown in the several gures. 15 Y top lugs 5 bear up against the lower surfaces of the base plate I to limitthe outward swinging of the legs or, as shown in Figure 2 by dotted lines,

.the legs 4 may be folded up under the plate I when they device is not in use or `when it is laid na 2 chart for scribing, aslater will be described.

The plane top S of the base plate I haa-,near

kthe left endof the machine, a, longitudinal groove I along the middle of which runs afslot 8. The

spring plate 9 triangular in longitudinal sectionywithits top I3 sloping down` toward theV opposite-3 end of the machine. It `has on` this 35 topv I3-alongitudinal series of graduations AIll Withindicia I5,` to; indicate the'height of the jtop ofthe toe-spring plate 9 from the topy of the base plate I at the respective graduations.

Thuawhena last A is placed on the base plate 40 I as shown in Figure l l, with its toe toward the plate 9 this plate ,9,k slid, toward the last until its top I3 contacts'with the tip I6 of the toe ofzf the last Without lifting the last from the base plate I, theindex of the graduation nearest this 45 tip.will indicate directly the toe-spring, i. e., the

rise of the bottom of the last from its tread I'I kthat bears on the base plate, to the tip I6 lof rthe. last. A f

-`Near the right end of the base plate I, and V50 vnear the edge I8 thereof,which will be called the `fron/t edgeof the plate Ia.lu'g I9 having a `transverse,opening 20 depends from the lower surface of theplate. A clamp bolt` 2I with a 'graduations ward through the opening 20, with the head 22 bearing against the back of the lug I9. The base plate I has its front edge I8 recessed at I9a to provide an offset.

A iiat bar 24 rits in the recess I9a, has a longitudinal slot 25 and lies against the'front of the lug I9 with the bolt 2I extending through the slot 25 and receiving the wing nut 26 whereby this bar may be clamped at any up and down adjustment within the limits of the length of the slot 25, as Well as at various inclinations. The recess I9a is long enough to permit such maximum degree of inclination as is required, as later will be described. This bar 24 has its upper end part 21 bent to a horizontal position crosswise of the machine but preferably inclined down toward the left hand end of the machine as viewed in Figures 1, 2 and 3. Fixed on this end portion 21 is the shoe last heel support 28. This heel support 28 is rectangular and has :fixed on its front edge an upstanding grip piece 29, with a roughened and recessed surface with which the thumb of the user may make'eiiicient contact while grippingV the piece 29 between the thumb and finger for moving the support 28 and its bar 24 when the nut 26 is loosened.

The flat top of this heel support 28 has a transverse slot 3U near its front end and, connecting with it and extending rearwardly therefrom on the median line of the support, a second slot 3I. In the front and rear end parts, respectively, of the transverse slot 30, and in the outer end part of the second slot 3|, are guided the jaws 32, each with a step 32a. Screws 33 are threaded through respective bushings 34 fixed in the front end of the transverse slot 3l] and the outer end of the second slot 3I, to bear against and adjust inwardy the jaws 32 in the respective slots 39 and 3I. This adjustment accommodates lasts of different widths. At the rear endv of the transverse slot 30 is a bar "30a through which is threaded a screw 33a similarly related to the rear-jaw 32. The front and end screws 33 have their heads extended out from the bushings 34,' which also preferably extend past the edges of the support 28; but the rear screw 33a has a wide-fiat head 33 which does not extend past the'rear edge of the block 28 at any adjustment, lying within a recess 28a in the rear edge of the support 28.v

Near the rear right hand corner of the top of the bed I is an index line 35 extending to the rear edge ISa of the bed and-at right angles thereto.

I use as a part of my invention a protractor comprising a plate 36 semicircular in its upper part 31 and rectangular in its lower part, which has a base part 38 turned at right angles to the above parts, with a plane bottom adapted to rest accurately on the plane top of the base plate I. The beam 39 of this protractor, with its pivot 49 concentric with the upper part 31 of the plate 36, h-as a short arm 4I extending from its pivot endY part substantially radially to the pivot 49, with its end describing an arc concentric with the pivot and having an index line 42 extending radially to this end. Near its top,'the semicircular part 31 of the plate 36 has lixed on it a sector plate 43 with its inner edge describingan arc veryclosely to which the arcshaped Yend ofthe beam army 4I swings at certain adjustments of the beam as will be described; and this sectorplate has an arcuate series of graduatons 44 Withindicia 45. The index line 42 thus may refer ,accurately toany one of these The beam 39 has along one edge Vthisline on the protractor sector plate.

a series of graduations 46, with indicia 41, from near its pivot 49 outward a suii'icient distance. Aligned horizontally with the pivot 40, on the protractor plate 36, is an index line 42a at the left.

I also use as part of my invention, as shown in Fig. 6, a chart 48 having a horizontal base line 49 and a vertical positioning line 59 meeting the base line 49 at 5I near the right end thereof. Parallel with the base line 49, and succeeding thereabove at equal intervals are lines or abscissas 52; and parallel with the vertical positioning line 5U, and succeeding to the left therefrom at equal intervals are lines or ordinates 53. The abscissas and ordinates are provided with respective indicia 54 and 55, respectively, starting from the point 5I. The spacing, as well as the indicia, of the horizontal lines or abcissas 52, correspond to those of the graduations 49 on the protractor beam 39; and for convenience, the spacing of the vertical lines or ordinates 53 is the same as that of the horizontal lines or abscissas 52 and the protractor beam graduations.

The protractor beam 39 is used in conjunction with the sector plate 43, as shown in Figure 2, for gauging the wedge or slope of the heel; and is used when set perpendicular to the protractor base, as shown in Fig. 3, for gauging the height of the heel.

Operation-To determine the height of heel, degree of wedge of heel and toe spring of a last, the last A is placed on the machine as in Figure 1 with the heel part of the last resting on the steps 32a of the jaws 32 of the heel support 28, the jaws 32 being adjusted to position the last with its median longitudinal line coinciding substantially with the corresponding median longitudinal line of the machine and to position the last lengthwise of the machine. The heel of the last resting on the three jaws 32 places the heel seat of the last in a plane parallel to the surface of the support l2B whereby the degree of wedge of the last heel seat may be determined by gauging the angularity of the support 28. The heel support 28 as a Whole is adjusted vertically and angularly by means of the bar 24 and clamping bolt 2I so that the last treads correctly on the base plate I at I1 and the heel portion of the last rests on all three steps 32a of the jaws 32. To gauge the toespring of the last, the plate 9 is moved toward Vand in under the tip I6 of the toe of the last, the

height of toe spring being read on the upper surface of the plate. To determine the degree of Vwedge of the last heel portion, the last is removed lfrom the device and the protractor is placed as shown in Fig. 2 with the protractor beam 39 set so that its edge coincides with the top of the heel `support 28. This permits the degree of wedge of the heel to be read by means of the beam arm index line 42 and the graduation 44 nearest to Then, to gauge kthe height of the heel end of the last, the protractor beam 39 is swung vertical, which position is determined by reference to the index line 42 on the beam arm 4I and the index line 42a .on the protractor plate, and the protractor is placed, as seen in Fig. 3, alongside the rear edge of the heel support 28 and alongside the bar 35 with the protractor base resting on the base plate may be placed' on the machine for visualizing the location of the height measurement, as the heel block 28 is wider than the last; i f

To draft a heel to fit'a given last-,place the'last von the machine as seenin Fig'. i, adjustingthe heell support and its jaws',n making the last tread correctly on the baseplate l, as before described. Remove the last frornfthemachine and Alay 'the machine with its rear edge la onthe chart, with the heel support' at thevright end'ofthe'chart where the spaced lines 52 and 53 are;r make'the top of the rear'edgc Ita' of the base plate! coincide with the base line Q9 of the chart,-wi'th the index line of the bed i coinciding with the vertical positioning line 50 ofthe chart. Draw a line 56 on the chart along the upper rea-r edge of the' heel support which, by reading the indiciaiof the horizontal lines or abscissas' 52 cutl by the drawn line at the point of heel heighawill give the heel height in terms ofthe chart. The line 56 thus drawn on the chart shows by its angle tothe baseline of the chart, theY angle to which the heel base should be made. The outline 51 of thelast is drawn on the chart by means of a last pattern, a Variety of which is furnished with the machine for different heights ofheel. In drawing this outline the heel base line 56 which was taken from the machine, is not disturbed.' This last outline 51 enables the draftsman to visualize the shoe, thus having a better guidein drafting the heel. The placing of this last outline shows, in conjunction with the baselinedS of the chart, the angle of'tread, as well as the toe spring. When the heel has been vdrafted 'on the chart; an opening cut in the chart on the heel outline will afford a template; and the piece thus cut out will afford a pattern. Such patterns and templates facilitate the making of the model heel by hand work, using a band saw to cut the general lines and surfaces. l

For drafting a heel, with the measurements (Fig 6)' for vpitch under'p, length of top t, rake r, and length of base `b predetermined, or specified, place the last on the machine and adjust as previously described, as to heel seat and tread and heel height desired. Remove the last and place the machine on the 'chart as before described, drawing the line 56. Lay the last pattern for a given heel height on the chart with back of heel of pattern on the Vertical positioning line 50 of the chart and the heel seat portion of the pattern on the line 56 taken from the machine, and mark all around the pattern except this line 56; upon which the chart is ready for the draftsman who is to draft the heel, and who will, by light lines easy to erase, bring the heel outline on the chart to the style desired. A pattern and template then may be made by cutting the chart as above described. 'I'he chart 48 in Fig. 6 shows the angle of the line 56 with the base line 49, together with the factor of the length of heel base b of the heel that was called for, bringing the height of the heel between ordinates l5 and I6, from which results a height h of heel, since the line 56 cuts the front limit of the heel base between abscissas I3 and I4, which will be read 131/2/8, meaning thirteen and one-half eighths of an inch. In like .manner the pitch under p is read 73; the length of tcp t is read 16/8-%=9/8; base b, 151//8 and the rake r is read le.

The heavy lines show a design 58 of a Cuban heel thus designed, and the dotted lines show a design 59 of a Louis heel thus designed. Both designs may be shown on the same chart, ,to the same measurements as indicated; the actual the necessary points and guide ii'nes are placed i" on the chart for the easy guidaneeof the drafts@ man, withfan accuracy and facility whichis not.

attained by trying totake measurements from the variously curved lastitself, directly, lf'orfbeginning theconstruction lines of a fdrawing'for the heel.v My -apparatusi's provided with many vrennements of detail not essentially present in a device which is' capable-of laffording the above aclvantages, andv it is' of vcourse possible to proceed with means considerably -varied from that disclosed. Also, the apparatus is subject to variations in practice which will not'depart from-the scope and spirit of my invention, as also is the method set forth.

`Therefore,` while I have vset forth Aa preferred example of my invention, rather specifically as is required, I do' not wishvto be understood as being limited'to such Aprecise disclosure, but what I Iclaim `as new and desire to secure by LettersPatent, is:

1. In apparatus of thecharacter described, a base element, a heel element adjustable vto the heel base part of a last treading on the base' ele ment, and a protractor comprising a beam and a, base to lie on said heelelement andjsaid base Velement, respectively, and comprising means'for readingthe angle ofthe heel element to the base element when said protractor beam and basel have been adjusted to the heel element and base ele'- ment after adjustment ofthe heel element to the last, and'said protractor beam being adjustable' to a position at right angles to the protractor base, and having indicia whereby, upon p'lacingsaid protractor base on said base element'withsaid beam Vupstanding alongside said' heel element, height lof heel of the last may beread by referiering saidbeam indicia Ateau'edge of the heel ele# ment.

2. In apparatus of the character described, a base element to be contacted by the tread of a last, a heel engaging element adjustable on the base element t-o various degrees of projection therefrom and to various angles with the base element at the various degrees of projection to engage the under side of the heel of said last, and means for gauging the projection and angle of said heel element to determine the height and angle of a heel to fit a. shoe made on the last.

3. In apparatus of the character described, a base element t-o be contacted by the tread of a last, having a side edge free to bear on a surface for scribing a line along its edge on said surface, and a heel element adjustable on the base element to various degrees of projection therefrom and to various angles with the base element at the various degrees of projection, and having a side edge in the same plane as said side edge of the base element free to bear on said surface for scribing a line on said surface to record the height and angle of a heel to fit a shoe made on the last.

4. In a device of the character described, elements having adjacent edges free to be applied to a surface for scribing lines along said edges on the surface, and having surfaces corresponding with said edges, respectively, to contact the tread and the heel base portions -of a last, and means connecting said elements together to vary the degree of projection of one element from the other and to vary the angle of one element to the other at the variousdegrees of projection independently of the degree of projection,whereby the elements may be adjusted to the respective portions of the `lastfor recording, by the lines scribed Yalong said edges, the height and' angle of a heel to fit a shoe made on the last. y y ,a

5. In a ldevice of -the character described, a base element to contact the tread of a-1ast,a heel element to `contact the heel base portion of the last, and a connection between said elements permitting the heel element to slide on the base element and to vswing to variouspositions on the baseelernent in any one position into which it is slid thereon, to gauge the heel height and heel angle of the last, and means to hold said connectionin adjustment. l y Y v 6. `In a device of the character described, a baseelement to contact the tread of a last, a heel element angularly and bodily adjustable relatively to the base element, andspaced Contact members on said heel element, adjustable thereacross, each having a surface to contact a spaced edge portionV of the `bottom of the last within the heel base area thereof, anda surface to contactv a side portion of the last adjacent to said area, said base and heel elements having surfaces free to be applied toan indicating device, by which reference may be made for gauging the height and angle yof a heel to fit a shoe made on the last.

'7. In a device of the character described, a base element to contact the tread of a last, and a heel element angularly and bodily adjustable rela- .tively to the rbase element to contact the heel of a last treading on the base element, and a device for gauging the inclination of the heel element after removing the last from the apparatus, said vdevice comprising relatively angularly adjustable parts contacting the respective elements, and also comprising means for indicating the degree of relative adjustment of the parts of said device, affording a -quantitative expression of the inclination of the heel element and consequently of the inclination of 'the heel base part of the last relative to the tread thereof.

9. In apparatus of the character described, a last tread support, a support for the' heel end of the last carried by said tread support and adjustable angularly and vertically with relation thereto, 4whereby to coincide with the height and degree of wedge of the heel seat end of the last, and means for gauging the height and angularity of said heel seat support.

140. An apparatus of the character described,

a last tread support, a support for the heel end of the last carried by said tread support and adjustable angularly and vertically with relation thereto, whereby to coincide with the height and degree ofwedge of the heel seat end of the last, and means for gauging the height and angularity of said heel seat support, said means including a measuring instrument coacting with said tread support and adapted to selectively determine the angularity and height of such support. 1l. An apparatus of the character described, a last tread support, a support for the heel end of the last carried by said tread supportand adjustable angularly and vertically with relation thereto, whereby to coincide with the height and degree of wedge of the heel seat end of the last, and means for gauging the height and angularity of said heel seat support, and means carried by said tread support and coacting therewith to gauge the toe spring of the last.

GEORGE CLAUSING.

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