US20090074686A1 - Novel inverse latices of copolymers of amps and of n,n-dimethylacrylamide; cosmetic use - Google Patents

Novel inverse latices of copolymers of amps and of n,n-dimethylacrylamide; cosmetic use Download PDF

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US20090074686A1
US20090074686A1 US12/233,965 US23396508A US2009074686A1 US 20090074686 A1 US20090074686 A1 US 20090074686A1 US 23396508 A US23396508 A US 23396508A US 2009074686 A1 US2009074686 A1 US 2009074686A1
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dimethylacrylamide
salt
oil
amino
crosslinked
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Olivier Braun
Paul Mallo
Stephanie Basset
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D'EXPLOITATION DES PRODUITS POUR LES INDUSTRIES CHIMIQUES Ste
Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61PSPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08FMACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
    • C08F2/00Processes of polymerisation
    • C08F2/32Polymerisation in water-in-oil emulsions
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08FMACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING CARBON-TO-CARBON UNSATURATED BONDS
    • C08F220/00Copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and only one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical or a salt, anhydride ester, amide, imide or nitrile thereof
    • C08F220/02Monocarboxylic acids having less than ten carbon atoms; Derivatives thereof
    • C08F220/52Amides or imides
    • C08F220/54Amides, e.g. N,N-dimethylacrylamide or N-isopropylacrylamide
    • C08F220/58Amides, e.g. N,N-dimethylacrylamide or N-isopropylacrylamide containing oxygen in addition to the carbonamido oxygen, e.g. N-methylolacrylamide, N-(meth)acryloylmorpholine
    • C08F220/585Amides, e.g. N,N-dimethylacrylamide or N-isopropylacrylamide containing oxygen in addition to the carbonamido oxygen, e.g. N-methylolacrylamide, N-(meth)acryloylmorpholine and containing other heteroatoms, e.g. 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid [AMPS]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/002Aftershave preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/004Aftersun preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005Preparations for sensitive skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the present patent application relates to water-in-oil inverse latex, to a process for preparing them and to their use as thickeners and/or emulsifiers for skincare and haircare products or for the manufacture of cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • the thickeners used in the cosmetics or pharmaceutical industry are intended to thicken aqueous phases, lotions or cream-gels.
  • an emulsifier is also added, especially when it is desired to incorporate a high content of oil into the formulation.
  • emulsifiers are often products with a low molecular weight, which are potentially less tolerated by the skin than polymers.
  • the use of polymers allows the preparation of cream-gels without heating, which reduces the manufacturing costs while at the same time keeping the heat-sensitive molecules intact.
  • European patent application published under number EP 1 59 305 discloses an inverse emulsion polymer composition
  • a copolymer or copolymer salt of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or acid salts thereof, having a brookfield viscosity of less than 20,000 Cps at 25° C., a polymer reduced viscosity at 0.0005 g/cm 3 (0.05 gm/dl) active in one Normal (1N) NaCl at 30° C., of about 3.10 3 cm 3 /g to about 10 4 cm 3 /g (30 to about 10 dl/g).
  • This low polymer reduced viscosity is generated by the presence of a chain transfer agent during the process of manufacturing, such as isopropanol or 2-mercapto ethanol. It is also induced either by the absence of crosslinking agent or by the presence of only a small quantity crosslinking agent. However, such a low reduced viscosity is characteristic of a low molar mass of the polymer, which prevents it from having an efficient thickening power.
  • One subject of the invention is thus a composition
  • a composition comprising an oil phase, an aqueous phase, at least one emulsifying system of water-in-oil (W/O) type, optionally at least one emulsifying system of oil-in-water (O/W) type, in the form of an inverse latex comprising from 20% to 70% by mass and preferably from 25% to 50% by mass of a branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte, characterized in that the said polyelectrolyte is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified with N,N-dimethylacrylamide and optionally one or more monomers chosen from monomers containing a partially or totally salified weak acid function and/or from neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • FIG. 1 compares cream-gels of various mass concentrations of Triglyceride 5545 and a composition according to the present invention (Composition 5) under magnification of ⁇ 400.
  • FIG. 2 compares cream-gels of various mass concentrations of PrimolTM 352 and a composition according to the present invention (Composition 5) under magnification of ⁇ 400.
  • FIG. 3 compares cream-gels of two mass concentrations of Triglyceride 5545 and a composition according to the prior art (Composition a) under magnification of ⁇ 400.
  • the said polyelectrolyte has a polymer reduced viscosity at 0.0005 g/cm 3 (0.05 gm/dl) active in one Normal (1N) NaCl at 30° C., greater than 10 4 cm 3 /g (10 dl/g), and more particularly greater than 1.5 10 4 cm 3 /g (15 dl/g).
  • 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid is preferably partially or totally salified in the form of an alkali metal salt, for example the sodium salt or the potassium salt, the ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt, for instance the monoethanolamine salt, or an amino acid salt, for instance the lysine salt.
  • an alkali metal salt for example the sodium salt or the potassium salt, the ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt, for instance the monoethanolamine salt, or an amino acid salt, for instance the lysine salt.
  • the weak acid function of the monomers comprising one is especially a partially salified carboxylic acid function.
  • the said monomers may be, for example, partially or totally salified acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid. They are preferably partially or totally salified in the form of an alkali metal salt, for instance the sodium salt or the potassium salt, the ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt, for instance the monoethanolamine salt, or an amino acid salt, for instance the lysine salt.
  • the neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide are especially chosen from acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetoneacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N-[2-hydroxy-1,1-bis[(hydroxymethyl)ethyl]]propenamide [or tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane or N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylacrylamide also known as THAM], (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl)methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl)methacrylate, an ethoxylated derivative with a molecular weight of between 400 and 1000, of each of these esters, or vinylpyrrolidone.
  • the polyelectrolyte present in the composition as defined above comprises between 95 mol % and 25 mol % of partially or totally salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid monomer and between 5 mol % and 75 mol % of N,N-dimethylacrylamide monomer.
  • the polyelectrolyte present in the composition comprises between 90 mol % and 40 mol % of partially or totally salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid monomer and between 10 mol % and 60 mol % of N,N-dimethylacrylamide monomer.
  • the polyelectrolyte present in the composition as defined above is a copolymer of partially or totally salified 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of one or more monomers chosen from monomers containing a weak acid function and/or neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide
  • the mole proportion of all of the monomers chosen from the monomers containing a weak acid function and the neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide is greater than 0% and less than or equal to 30%.
  • the mole ratio between the N,N-dimethylacrylamide and all of the monomers chosen from the monomers containing a weak acid function and the neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide is preferably greater than or equal to 1.
  • branched polymer denotes a non-linear polymer containing side chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, extensive entanglement leading to very high viscosities at low shear.
  • crosslinked polymer denotes a non-linear polymer in the form of a water-insoluble but water-swellable three-dimensional network thus leading to the production of a chemical gel.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise crosslinked units and/or branched units.
  • the polymer present in the composition that is the subject of the present invention is crosslinked, it is more particularly crosslinked with a diethylenic or polyethylenic compound in a mole proportion, expressed relative to the monomers used, of from 0.005% to 1%, more particularly from 0.010% to 0.20% and still more particularly from 0.015% to 0.15%.
  • the crosslinking agent and/or the branching agent is chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, sodium diallyloxyacetate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate and methylenebis(acrylamide).
  • the emulsifying system of water-in-oil (W/O) type consists either of a sole surfactant or of a mixture of surfactants on condition that the HLB value of the said mixture is low enough to induce water-in-oil emulsions.
  • sorbitan esters for instance sorbitan oleate, for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MontaneTM 80
  • sorbitan isostearate for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MontaneTM 70
  • sorbitan sesquioleate for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MontaneTM 83.
  • polyethoxylated sorbitan esters for example pentaethoxylated sorbitan monooleate, for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MontanoxTM 81 or pentaethoxylated sorbitan isostearate, for instance the product sold under the name MontanoxTM 71 by the company SEPPIC.
  • diethoxylated oleocetyl alcohol for instance the product sold under the name SimulsolTM OC 72 by the company SEPPIC
  • tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate for instance the product sold under the name BlemmerTM ALE 200
  • polyesters with a molecular weight of between 1000 and 3000 produced from condensation between a poly(isobutenyl)succinic acid or its anhydride and polyethylene glycol, such as HypermerTM M 2296 sold by the company Uniqema, or, finally, block copolymers with a molecular weight of between 2500 and 3500, for instance HypermerTM B246 sold by the company Uniqema or SimalineTM IE 200 sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • composition that is the subject of the present invention generally comprises from 2% to 8% by mass of emulsifying system of water-in-oil (W/Q) type.
  • composition as defined above comprises an emulsifying system of oil-in-water (O/W) type, it consists either of a sole surfactant or of a mixture of surfactants, on condition that the HLB value of the said mixture is high enough to induce oil-in-water emulsions.
  • O/W oil-in-water
  • emulsifiers of oil-in-water type there are, for example, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, for instance sorbitan oleate polyethoxylated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MontanoxTM 80, sorbitan laurate polyethoxylated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MontanoxTM 20, castor oil polyethoxylated with 40 mol of ethylene oxide, sold under the name SimulsolTM OL50, decaethoxylated oleodecyl alcohol, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name SimulsolTM OC710, heptaethoxylated lauryl alcohol, sold under the name SimulsolTM P7 or sorbitan monostearate polyethoxylated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name MontanoxTM 60.
  • ethoxylated sorbitan esters
  • composition that is the subject of the present invention comprises an emulsifying system of oil-inwater (O/W) type, it generally comprises from 3% to 8% by mass of this system.
  • O/W oil-inwater
  • the composition as defined above comprises an (O/W) emulsifying system.
  • the oil phase may also comprise fatty acid esters.
  • fatty acid ester means a compound of formula (I):
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 especially represent, independently of each other, a radical chosen from heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, uneicosyl, docosyl, heptadecenyl, eicosenyl, uneicosenyl, docosenyl, heptadecadienyl and decenyl radicals; the group R 1 —C( ⁇ O)— more particularly represents one of the following radicals: octanoyl (caprylyl), decanoyl, undecylenoyl, dodecanoyl (lauroyl), tetradecano
  • the oil phase may more particularly comprise a compound of formula (Ia):
  • fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid mixtures such as the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, sold under the name SoftenolTM 3819, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 10 carbon atoms, sold under the name SoftenolTM 3108, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, sold under the name SoftenolTM 3178, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, sold under the name SoftenolTM 3100, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 7 carbon atoms, sold under the name SoftenolTM 3107, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 14 carbon atoms, sold under the name SoftenolTM 3114, or the mixture
  • the oil phase may more particularly comprise a compound of formula (Ib):
  • An example of a compound of formula (Ib) is, for example, octyl palmitate.
  • the inverse latex as defined above generally contains from 4% to 10% by weight of emulsifiers.
  • Its oil phase represents from 15% to 40% and preferably from 20% to 25% of the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous phase represents from 2% to 40% of the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject thereof is a composition as defined above in which the copolymer is chosen from:
  • the composition as defined above comprises at least 50% by weight and not more than 70% by weight of polyelectrolyte.
  • the composition is preferably prepared by performing the following process:
  • volatile oils that are suitable for performing the process as defined above are, for example, light isoparaffins containing from 8 to 11 carbon atoms, for instance those sold under the names IsoparTM G, IsoparTM L, IsoparTM H or IsoparTM J.
  • the polymerization reaction is initiated with a redox couple, such as the cumene hydroperoxide/sodium metabisulfite couple, at a temperature of less than or equal to 10° C., and is then performed either quasi-adiabatically up to a temperature of greater than or equal to 40° C. and more particularly greater than or equal to 50° C., or by controlling the change of the temperature.
  • a redox couple such as the cumene hydroperoxide/sodium metabisulfite couple
  • step c) the emulsifying system of oil-in-water type is introduced, if desired, at a temperature below 50° C.
  • composition as defined above comprises less than 50% by weight of polyelectrolyte
  • it is preferably prepared by performing the following process:
  • the reaction medium obtained form step b) is concentrated by distillation before performing step c).
  • the polymerization reaction is initiated with a redox couple, such as the cumene hydroperoxide/sodium metabisulfite couple, at a temperature of less than or equal to 10° C., and is then performed either quasi-adiabatically up to a temperature of greater than or equal to 40° C. and more particularly greater than or equal to 50° C., or by controlling the change of the temperature.
  • a redox couple such as the cumene hydroperoxide/sodium metabisulfite couple
  • the aqueous starting solution is adjusted to a pH of less than or equal to 4 before performing step a).
  • the composition as defined above comprises not more than 30% by weight of polyelectrolyte.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition, characterized in that it comprises as thickening and/or emulsifying compound at least one inverse latex as defined above.
  • the cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition defined above generally comprises from 0.1% to 10% and more particularly between 0.5% and 5% by weight of the said inverse latex. It is especially in the form of a milk, a lotion, a gel, a cream-gel, a cream, a soap, a bubblebath, a balm, a shampoo or a conditioner.
  • the cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition as defined above is a topical composition.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of the inverse latex as defined above for proposing a cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical topical composition.
  • the topical composition according to the invention intended to be applied to the skin or mucous membranes of man or animals, may consist of a topical emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one oil phase.
  • This topical emulsion may be of the oil-inwater type. More particularly, this topical emulsion may consist of a fluid emulsion, such as a milk or a fluid gel.
  • the oil phase of the topical emulsion may consist of a mixture of one or more oils.
  • a topical composition according to the invention may be intended for cosmetic use or may be used to prepare a medicament for treating skin and mucous membrane diseases.
  • the topical composition then comprises an active principle that may consist, for example, of an anti-inflammatory agent, a muscle relaxant, an antifungal agent or an antibacterial agent.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain ingredients usually used in the cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical fields and known to those skilled in the art, such as fats (oils, butters, waxes, fatty acids and gums), emulsifiers and coemulsifiers, gelling agents and/or stabilizers and/or film-forming agents, fillers, pigments, sunscreens, humectants, solvents and cosolvents, plasticizers, sequestrants, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents or active principles.
  • oils that may be combined with the composition of the invention, mention may be made of paraffins, isoparaffins, white mineral oils, plant oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils; and more particularly:
  • fatty substance that may be combined with the composition of the invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohols or fatty acids.
  • the fatty phase of the preparations according to the invention may also contain waxes such as beeswax; carnauba wax; candelilla wax, ouricury wax; japan wax; cork fibre wax or sugarcane wax; paraffin waxes; lignite waxes; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; hydrogenated oils; silicone waxes; plant waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature; glycerides that are solid at room temperature.
  • waxes such as beeswax; carnauba wax; candelilla wax, ouricury wax; japan wax; cork fibre wax or sugarcane wax; paraffin waxes; lignite waxes; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; hydrogenated oils; silicone waxes; plant waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature; glycerides that are solid at room temperature.
  • the inverse latex according to the invention may optionally be combined with other thickening and/or emulsifying polymers.
  • examples that may be mentioned include homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylic acid derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, of vinyl monomer, of trimethylaminoethyl acrylate chloride sold under the names CarbopolTM UltrezTM 10, PemulenTM TR1, PemulenTM TR2, SimulgelTM A, SimulgelTM NS, SimulgelTM EPG, SimulgelTM EG, LuvigelTM EM, SalcareTM SC91, SalcareTM SC92, SalcareTM SC95, SalcareTM SC96, FlocareTM ET100, HispagelTM, SepigelTM 305, SepigelTM 501, SepigelTM 502, Sepiplus, Flocare
  • composition according to the invention is also an advantageous substitute for those sold under the names SepigelTM 305, SepigelTM 501, SimulgelTM EG, SimulgelTM NS or SimulgelTM 600 by the Applicant, since it also shows good compatibility with the other excipients used for the preparation of formulations such as milks, lotions, creams, cream-gels, soaps, bubblebaths, balms, shampoos or hair conditioners.
  • the cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition as defined above may also comprise texture agents and/or fillers, for instance acrylic and methacrylic acid copolymers, starches, silicas, calcium, magnesium, aluminium or barium silicates, calcium phosphate, natural fibres such as cotton fibre, cellulose fibre or chitosan fibre, or synthetic fibres such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibre, rayon fibre, viscose fibre, cellulose acetate fibre, poly-p-phenyleneterephthamide fibre (Kevlar®), polyethylene or polypropylene fibre, glass fibre, carbon fibre, Teflon fibre, polyester fibre, polyvinyl chloride fibre, polyvinyl alcohol fibre, polyacrylonitrile fibre, polyurethane fibre or polyethylene phthalate fibre, talc, mica, sericite, silica, boron nitride, lauroyllysine, silicone resin powders, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, titanium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium
  • active principles that may be combined with the inverse latex according to the invention, mention may be made of compounds with a lightening or depigmenting action, a moisturizing action, a tensioning action, a calmative or relaxing action, a purifying, seboregulatory or hair-loss-countering action, an anti-ageing action, or a firming, restructuring action, a free-radical-scavenging action, an antioxidant action or a self-tanning action.
  • composition of the invention may thus be combined with active agents such as, for example, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, ellagic acid, vitamin C and its derivatives, Stay C, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and its derivatives, ascorbyl glucoside, phytic acid, fruit acids, rucinol or resorcinol, azeleic acid, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), lipoic acid, VegewhiteTM, GatulineTM, SynerlightTM, BiowhiteTM, PhytolightTM, DermalightTM, ClariskinTM, MelaslowTM, DermawhiteTM, EthiolineTM, MelarestTM, GigawhiteTM, AlbatineTM, LumiskinTM, polyphenol extracts, grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts, tea extracts, cocoa extracts, Amazonian forest plant extracts, legume extracts, floral extracts, fruit extracts, mint extracts, pond extracts, N-acyl proteins, N-acyl peptides
  • lipids in general lipids such as ceramides or phospholipids and also derivatives, active agents with a slimming action, for instance caffeine or its derivatives, active agents that improve the capillary circulation of the skin, for instance venotonic agents, draining active agents, decongestive active agents such as ginko biloba, ivy, common horsechestnut, bamboo, ruscus, centella asiatica, fucus, rosemary or sage, active agents with antimicrobial activity or a purifying action on greasy skin, for instance copper or zinc derivatives or octopirox or Sensiva SC50, active agents with energizing or stimulating properties, for instance SepitonicTM M3 or PhysiogenylTM, panthenol and its derivatives, for instance SepicapTM MP, anti-ageing active agents, SepivinolTM, SepivitalTM, ManolivaTM and Phyto AgeTM.
  • active agents with energizing or stimulating properties for instance SepitonicTM M3
  • composition of the invention may also more generally be combined with anti-ageing active agents for combating photo-ageing, the targeted active agents protecting the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction, active agents that increase the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix (for instance collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans, etc.), active agents that act favourably on chemical (cytokines) or physical (integrins) cell communication, active agents with a restructuring effect, active agents with a cicatrizing effect, active agents with a firming effect, active agents with a “botox-like” effect, active agents that act on expression wrinkles, active agents that act on the calcium channels, active agents that improve the integrity of the skin barrier, active agents that act on specific skin enzymes, active agents that act on specific cell receptors, active agents that improve cell communication, active agents with a free-radical-scavenging or anti-oxidant effect, active agents with a “tensioning” effect and active agents with an antidandruff, anti-acne, calm
  • composition containing the polymer according to the invention may also be combined with active agents that afford a heating effect on the skin, such as skin capillary circulation activators (for example nicotinates) or ingredients that create, conversely, a sensation of freshness on application (for example menthol).
  • active agents that afford a heating effect on the skin, such as skin capillary circulation activators (for example nicotinates) or ingredients that create, conversely, a sensation of freshness on application (for example menthol).
  • sunscreens that may be incorporated with the composition of the invention, mention may be made of any of those featured in the amended Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC appendix VII.
  • the sunscreen is more particularly chosen from lipophilic sunscreens, for instance octocrylene, etocrylene, homosalate, for instance EusolexTM HMS, octyl para-methoxycinnamate, for instance ParsolTM MCX, octinoxate, octisalate, avobenzone, oxybenzone, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, for instance Uvinul M-40, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-12, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, menthyl anthranilate, methylbenzylidenecamphor or isopropyldibenzoylmethane.
  • lipophilic sunscreens for instance octocrylene, etocrylene, homosalate, for instance EusolexTM HMS, octyl para-methoxyc
  • the sunscreen as defined above may also comprise one or more lipophobic sunscreens, for instance titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, TEA salicylate, PABA and DEA methoxycinnamate.
  • lipophobic sunscreens for instance titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, TEA salicylate, PABA and DEA methoxycinnamate.
  • the sunscreen as defined above may also comprise one or more oil absorbers, for instance silica, whether these are spherical silicas, for instance SpheronTM L-1500, porous silica or pyrogenic silica, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate, for instance the MicropearlTM products, dextrins, cyclodextrins, molecular sieves, for instance zeolites, Nylon 6 or 12, sodium calcium aluminosilicate, talc or mica.
  • oil absorbers for instance silica, whether these are spherical silicas, for instance SpheronTM L-1500, porous silica or pyrogenic silica, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate, for instance the MicropearlTM products, dextrins, cyclodextrins, molecular sieves, for instance zeolites, Nylon 6 or 12, sodium calcium aluminosilicate, talc or mica.
  • the sunscreen as defined above may also comprise one or more esters of neopentanoic acid with an isoalkyl alcohol containing from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • it preferably comprises isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or isoarachidyl neopentanoate.
  • the cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition comprises an efficient quantity of dihydroxyacetone and more particularly between 1% and 8% by weight of the composition of dihydroxyacetone.
  • the cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition comprises either dihydroxyacetone and at least a hydroxy acid such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, gluconic acid or kojic acid either dihydroxyacetone and at least one sunscreen agent either dihydroxyacetone and at least one moisturizing agent, either dihydroxyacetone and at least on slimming agent such as caffeine.
  • a hydroxy acid such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, gluconic acid or kojic acid
  • sunscreen agent either dihydroxyacetone and at least one moisturizing agent, either dihydroxyacetone and at least on slimming agent such as caffeine.
  • the pH of this aqueous solution is equal to 5.5.
  • Example 1 The experimental conditions of Example 1 are reproduced, but using 0.109 g of methylenebisacrylamide instead of the 0.068 g of the above example. The expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • Example 1 The experimental conditions of Example 1 are reproduced, but using 622.9 g of a commercial solution containing 55% sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate (AMPS Na salt) and 37 g of N,N-dimethylacrylamide (DMA) to obtain a desired (AMPS Na salt)/DMA mole ratio (80/20), and also 0.072 g of methylenebisacrylamide. The expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • AMPS Na salt sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate
  • DMA N,N-dimethylacrylamide
  • the expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • Example 1 The experimental conditions of Example 1 are reproduced, but using 471.6 g of a commercial solution containing 55% sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate (AMPS Na salt) and 112 g of N,N-dimethylacrylamide (DMA) to obtain the desired (AMPS Na salt)/DMA mole ratio (50/50), and also 0.087 g of methylenebisacrylamide. The expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • AMPS Na salt sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate
  • DMA N,N-dimethylacrylamide
  • the expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • Example 1 The experimental conditions of Example 1 are reproduced, but using 388.6 g of a commercial solution containing 55% sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate (AMPS Na salt) and 138.6 g of N,N-dimethylacrylamide (DMA) to obtain the desired (AMPS Na salt)/DMA mole ratio (40/60), and also 0.089 g of methylenebisacrylamide. The expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • AMPS Na salt sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate
  • DMA N,N-dimethylacrylamide
  • the expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • composition 5 The performance qualities of the inverse latex according to the invention of Example 5 (Composition 5) were compared with those of an inverse latex of an (AMPS Na salt)/acrylamide copolymer (40/60), crosslinked with methylenebis(acrylamide) of the prior art (composition a).
  • Samples are prepared at each of the measured concentrations, by gradually adding the required amount of water to each of the inverse latices.
  • composition 5 Composition (a) 0.5% 1 300 1 200 1.0% 20 000 18 500 1.5% 46 000 53 000 2.0% 58 000 81 000 2.5% 77 000 92 000 3.0% 87 000 108 000 3.5% 97 000 128 000 4.0% 100 000 134 000 4.5% 114 000 147 000 5.0% 118 000 168 000
  • the object of the experiments is to determine the maximum amount of oil that can be incorporated into an aqueous gel of the inverse latex according to the invention of Example 5 (Composition 5).
  • aqueous gel of each of the inverse latices having a viscosity of 100 000 mPa ⁇ s at room temperature is prepared.
  • Samples of cream-gels are prepared by adding the oil (PrimolTM 352 or Triglyceride 5545). The observations are given in the following tables and in FIGS. 1 and 2 .
  • composition 5 makes it possible to emulsify up to 65% of Trigly 5545 (caprylic/capric triglycerides) and up to 60% of PrimolTM 352.
  • Example 3 A Inverse latex of Example 3: 1.5% Water: qs 100% B Micropearl TM M 100: 5.0% Sepicide TM CI: 0.50% Fragrance: 0.20% 95° ethanol: 10.0%
  • Example 4 A Inverse latex of Example 4: 3.00% Water: 30% B Sepicide TM CI: 0.20% Sepicide TM HB: 0.30% Fragrance: 0.10% C Dye: qs Water: 30% D Micropearl TM M 100: 3.00% Water: qs 100% E Silicone oil: 2.0% Parsol TM MCX: 5.00%
  • Example 3 A Inverse latex of Example 3: 3.5% Water: 20.0% B Dye: 2 drops/100 g Water: qs C Alcohol: 10% Menthol: 0.10% D Silicone oil: 5.0%
  • Example 5 A Inverse latex of Example 5: 4% Water: 30% B Elastine HPM: 5.0% C Micropearl TM M 100: 3% Water: 5% D Sepicide TM CI: 0.2% Sepicide TM HB: 0.3% Fragrance: 0.06% Sodium pyrolidinonecarboxylate 50%: 1% Water: qs 100%
  • Example 4 Inverse latex of Example 4: 5% Ethanol: 30% Menthol: 0.1% Caffeine: 2.5% Extract of ruscus: 2% Extract of ivy: 2% Sepicide TM HB: 1% Water: qs 100%
  • a Water: 10.0% Butylene glycol: 4.0% PEG-400: 4.0% Pecosil TM PS100: 1.5% NaOH: qs pH 7 Titanium dioxide: 2.0% Yellow iron oxide: 0.8% Red iron oxide: 0.3% Black iron oxide: 0.05% B Lanol TM 99: 4.0% Caprylic/capric triglyceride: 4.0% Sepifeel TM One: 1.0% Inverse latex of Example 5: 3.0% C Water: qs 100% Micropearl TM M305: 2.0% Tetrasodium EDTA: 0.05% Cyclomethicone: 4.0% D Sepicide TM HB: 0.5% Sepicide TM CI: 0.3% Fragrance: 0.2%
  • Example 5 A Inverse latex of Example 5: 3.00% Water: 30% B Sepicide TM CI: 0.20% Sepicide TM HB: 0.30% Fragrance: 0.05% C Dye: qs Water: qs 100% D Micropearl TM SQL: 5.0% Lanol TM 1688: 2%
  • a Lipacide TM PVB 0.5% Lanol TM 99: 5.0% Inverse latex of Example 2: 2.5% B Water: qs 100% C Micropearl TM LM: 0.5% Fragrance: 0.2% Sepicide TM HB: 0.3% Sepicide TM CI: 0.2%
  • Example 5 1.5% Isononyl isononanoate: 2% Caffeine: 5% Ethanol: 40% Micropearl TM LM: 2% Demineralized water: qs 100% Preserving agent, fragrance: qs
  • Ketrol TM T 0.5% Pecosil TM SPP50: 0.75% N-Cocoyl amino acids: 0.70% Butylene glycol: 3.0% Inverse latex of Example 1: 3.0% Montanov TM 82: 3.0% Jojoba oil: 1.0% Lanol TM P: 6.0% Amonyl TM DM: 1.0% Lanol TM 99: 5.0% Sepicide TM HB: 0.3% Sepicide TM CI: 0.2% Fragrance: 0.2% Water: qs 100%
  • Example 3 Inverse latex of Example 3: 4% Plant squalane: 5% Dimethicone: 1.5% Sepicontrol TM A5: 4% Xanthan gum: 0.3% Water: qs 100% Preserving agent, fragrance: qs
  • Amonyl TM 675 SB 5.0% 28% sodium lauryl ether sulfate: 35.0%
  • Inverse latex of Example 3: 3.0% Sepicide TM HB: 0.5% Sepicide TM CI: 0.3% Sodium hydroxide: qs pH 7.2 Fragrance: 0.3% Dye (FDC Blue 1/Yellow 5): qs Water: qs 100%
  • Ketrol TM T 0.5% Mixture of cocoyl amino acids: 3.0% Butylene glycol: 5.0% DC 1501: 5.0% Composition of Example 1: 4.0% Sepicide TM HB: 0.5% Sepicide TM CI: 0.3% Fragrance: 0.3% Water: qs 100%
  • Example 5 Inverse latex of Example 5: 1.50% Schercemol TM TISC: 15.00% Vistanol TM NPGC: 15.00% Candurin Paprika: 0.50% Montanox TM 80: 1.00% Antaron TM V216: 0.90% Apricot flavouring: 0.20% Sepicide TM HB: 0.50% C Maltidex TM H16322: qs 100%
  • Example 3 Inverse latex of Example 3: 2.00% Lanol TM 99: 12.00% Sepiwhite TM MSH: 1.00% Talc: 33.00% Micropearl TM M310: 3.00% Yellow iron oxide: 0.80% Red iron oxide: 0.30% Black iron oxide: 0.05% Mica: qs 100%
  • Arlacel TM P135 2.00% Inverse latex of Example 1: 1.00% Lanol TM 1688: 14.00% Primol TM 352: 8.00% Glycerol: 5.00% Water: qs 100% Magnesium sulfate: 0.70% Sepicide TM HB: 0.30% Sepicide TM CI: 0.20% Micropearl TM M310: 5.00%
  • Example 4 Inverse latex of Example 4: 5% Ethanol: 30% Dihydroxyacetone 5% Menthol: 0.1% Caffeine: 2.5% Extract of ivy: 2% Sepicide TM HB: 1% Water: qs 100%
  • SimulsolTM 1293 is hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil, with an ethoxylation index equal to 40, sold by the company SEPPIC
  • CapigelTM 98 is a liquid thickener based on acrylate copolymer sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • KetrolTM is xanthan gum sold by the company Kelco.
  • LanolTM 99 is isononyl isononanoate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • DC1501 is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol sold by the company Dow Chemical.
  • MontanovTM 82 is an emulsifier based on cetearyl alcohol and cocoylglucoside.
  • MontanovTM 68 cetearyl glucoside is a self-emulsifying composition as described in WO 92/06778, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • MicropearlTM M 100 is an ultra-fine powder with a very soft feel and a matting action, sold by the company Matsumo.
  • SepicideTM CI imidazolidineurea
  • SEPPIC Stamate Phosphide
  • PemulenTM TR1 is an acrylic polymer sold by Goodrich.
  • SimulsolTM 165 is self-emulsifying glyceryl stearate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • LanolTM 1688 is an emollient ester with a non-greasy effect sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • LanolTM 14M and Lanol® S are consistency factors sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • SepicideTM HB which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preserving agent sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • AquaxylTM is a moisturizer sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • SchercemolTM OP is an emollient ester with a non-greasy effect.
  • LanolTM P is an additive with a stabilizing effect sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • ParsolTM MCX is octyl para-methoxycinnamate; sold by the company Givaudan.
  • SepiperlTM N is a nacreous agent, sold by the company SEPPIC, based on a mixture of alkylpolyglucosides such as those described in WO 95/13863.
  • MicropearlTM SQL is a mixture of microparticles containing squalane, which is released by the action of massaging; it is sold by the company Matsumo.
  • LanolTM M 99 is isononyl isononanoate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • LanolTM 37T is glyceryl triheptanoate, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • SolagumTM L is a carrageenan sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • MarcolTM 82 is a liquid paraffin sold by the company Exxon.
  • LanolTM 84D is dioctyl malate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Parsol NOXTM is a sunscreen sold by the company Givaudan.
  • EusolexTM 4360 is a sunscreen sold by the company Merck.
  • Dow CorningTM 245 Fluid is cyclomethicone, sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • LipacideTM PVB is an acylated wheat protein hydrolysate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • MicropearlTM LM is a mixture of squalane, polymethyl methacrylate and menthol, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • SepicontrolTM A5 is a mixture of capryloylglycine, sarcosine and extract of Cinnamon zylanicum, sold by the company SEPPIC, such as those described in international patent application PCT/FR98/01313 filed on 23 Jun. 1998.
  • LanolTM 2681 is a coconut caprylate/caprate mixture sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • MontanovTM 202 is an APG/fatty alcohol composition as described in WO 98/47610, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • ProteolTM APL is a foaming surfactant sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • SchercemolTM TISC is an ester (triisostearyl citrate) sold by the company Scher.
  • VistanolTM NPGC is an ester (neopentyl glycol dicaprate) sold by the company Sewa Kasei.
  • AntaronTM V216 is a synthetic polymer (PVP/hexadecene copolymer) distributed by the company Univar.
  • MaltidexTM H16322 is a polyol (maltitol syrup) sold by the company Cerestar.
  • SepiwhiteTM MSH is a depigmenting active agent (undecylenoyl phenylalanine) sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • DC 345 is a cyclomethicone sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • DC 5225C is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconecopolyol sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • SepicalmTM VG is a soothing active agent (sodium palmitoylproline) sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • MT100VT is a micronized titanium dioxide that has undergone a surface treatment (aluminium hydroxide/stearic acid) distributed by the company Unipex.
  • Z-Cote HP1 is a micronized zinc oxide that has undergone a surface treatment, distributed by Gattefosse.
  • Candurin Paprika is a mixture of potassium aluminium silicate and iron oxide.

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Abstract

Composition comprising an oil phase, an aqueous phase, at least one emulsifying system of water-in-oil (W/O) type, optionally at least one emulsifying system of oil-in-water (O/W) type, in the form of an inverse latex comprising from 20% to 70% by mass and preferably from 25% to 50% by mass of a branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte, characterized in that the said polyelectrolyte is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified with N,N-dimethylacrylamide and optionally one or more monomers chosen from monomers containing a partially or totally salified weak acid function and neutral monomers. Cosmetic use.

Description

  • This application is a divisional application of Ser. No. 11/439,208, filed May 24, 2006. The teachings of the above applications are hereby incorporated by reference. Any disclaimer that may have occurred during prosecution of the above referenced applications is hereby expressly disclaimed.
  • BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
  • The present patent application relates to water-in-oil inverse latex, to a process for preparing them and to their use as thickeners and/or emulsifiers for skincare and haircare products or for the manufacture of cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • The thickeners used in the cosmetics or pharmaceutical industry, are intended to thicken aqueous phases, lotions or cream-gels. In the case of cream-gels, an emulsifier is also added, especially when it is desired to incorporate a high content of oil into the formulation. However, emulsifiers are often products with a low molecular weight, which are potentially less tolerated by the skin than polymers. Furthermore, the use of polymers allows the preparation of cream-gels without heating, which reduces the manufacturing costs while at the same time keeping the heat-sensitive molecules intact.
  • Accordingly, it has been sought to develop polymers that are both thickeners and emulsifiers. Synthetic thickening polymers in the form of inverse latex are nowadays frequently used, for instance those described in the French patent applications published under the numbers 2 721 511, 2 733 805, 2 774 688, 2 774 996 and 2 782 086 and also in the European patent application published under the number EP 0 503 853. Japanese patent 3 681 154 discloses a cosmetic preparation formulated with a copolymer obtained copolymerization of 2-acrylamide-2-methyl propanesulfonic acid or a salt, a dialkyl acrylamide and a crosslinking monomer. However this copolymer is not an inverse latex.
  • US patent application published under number US 2004/0062728 A1, discloses a cosmetic composition comprising an amphiphilic polymer comprising 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propanesulfonic acid monomer in free or partially or totally neutralized forms and at least one hydrophobic portion of the type (C8 to C16 alkyl)acrylamide.
  • European patent application published under number EP 1 59 305, discloses an inverse emulsion polymer composition comprising a copolymer or copolymer salt of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid or acid salts, thereof, having a brookfield viscosity of less than 20,000 Cps at 25° C., a polymer reduced viscosity at 0.0005 g/cm3 (0.05 gm/dl) active in one Normal (1N) NaCl at 30° C., of about 3.103 cm3/g to about 104 cm3/g (30 to about 10 dl/g). This low polymer reduced viscosity is generated by the presence of a chain transfer agent during the process of manufacturing, such as isopropanol or 2-mercapto ethanol. It is also induced either by the absence of crosslinking agent or by the presence of only a small quantity crosslinking agent. However, such a low reduced viscosity is characteristic of a low molar mass of the polymer, which prevents it from having an efficient thickening power.
  • SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
  • In the context of its research to develop novel emulsifying and thickening compounds, the Applicant became interested in novel 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers.
  • One subject of the invention is thus a composition comprising an oil phase, an aqueous phase, at least one emulsifying system of water-in-oil (W/O) type, optionally at least one emulsifying system of oil-in-water (O/W) type, in the form of an inverse latex comprising from 20% to 70% by mass and preferably from 25% to 50% by mass of a branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte, characterized in that the said polyelectrolyte is a copolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified with N,N-dimethylacrylamide and optionally one or more monomers chosen from monomers containing a partially or totally salified weak acid function and/or from neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
  • BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
  • FIG. 1 compares cream-gels of various mass concentrations of Triglyceride 5545 and a composition according to the present invention (Composition 5) under magnification of ×400.
  • FIG. 2 compares cream-gels of various mass concentrations of Primol™ 352 and a composition according to the present invention (Composition 5) under magnification of ×400.
  • FIG. 3 compares cream-gels of two mass concentrations of Triglyceride 5545 and a composition according to the prior art (Composition a) under magnification of ×400.
  • DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
  • In the composition as defined above, the said polyelectrolyte has a polymer reduced viscosity at 0.0005 g/cm3 (0.05 gm/dl) active in one Normal (1N) NaCl at 30° C., greater than 104 cm3/g (10 dl/g), and more particularly greater than 1.5 104 cm3/g (15 dl/g).
  • In the composition as defined above, 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid is preferably partially or totally salified in the form of an alkali metal salt, for example the sodium salt or the potassium salt, the ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt, for instance the monoethanolamine salt, or an amino acid salt, for instance the lysine salt.
  • The weak acid function of the monomers comprising one is especially a partially salified carboxylic acid function. The said monomers may be, for example, partially or totally salified acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid or 3-methyl-3-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]butanoic acid. They are preferably partially or totally salified in the form of an alkali metal salt, for instance the sodium salt or the potassium salt, the ammonium salt, an amino alcohol salt, for instance the monoethanolamine salt, or an amino acid salt, for instance the lysine salt.
  • The neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide are especially chosen from acrylamide, methacrylamide, diacetoneacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N-[2-hydroxy-1,1-bis[(hydroxymethyl)ethyl]]propenamide [or tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane or N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylacrylamide also known as THAM], (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl)acrylate, (2-hydroxyethyl)methacrylate, (2,3-dihydroxypropyl)methacrylate, an ethoxylated derivative with a molecular weight of between 400 and 1000, of each of these esters, or vinylpyrrolidone.
  • The polyelectrolyte present in the composition as defined above comprises between 95 mol % and 25 mol % of partially or totally salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid monomer and between 5 mol % and 75 mol % of N,N-dimethylacrylamide monomer.
  • According to one particular aspect of the present invention, the polyelectrolyte present in the composition comprises between 90 mol % and 40 mol % of partially or totally salified 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid monomer and between 10 mol % and 60 mol % of N,N-dimethylacrylamide monomer.
  • When the polyelectrolyte present in the composition as defined above is a copolymer of partially or totally salified 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of one or more monomers chosen from monomers containing a weak acid function and/or neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide, the mole proportion of all of the monomers chosen from the monomers containing a weak acid function and the neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide is greater than 0% and less than or equal to 30%.
  • In the first case, the mole ratio between the N,N-dimethylacrylamide and all of the monomers chosen from the monomers containing a weak acid function and the neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide is preferably greater than or equal to 1.
  • The term “branched polymer” denotes a non-linear polymer containing side chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolved in water, extensive entanglement leading to very high viscosities at low shear.
  • The term “crosslinked polymer” denotes a non-linear polymer in the form of a water-insoluble but water-swellable three-dimensional network thus leading to the production of a chemical gel.
  • The composition according to the invention may comprise crosslinked units and/or branched units.
  • When the polymer present in the composition that is the subject of the present invention is crosslinked, it is more particularly crosslinked with a diethylenic or polyethylenic compound in a mole proportion, expressed relative to the monomers used, of from 0.005% to 1%, more particularly from 0.010% to 0.20% and still more particularly from 0.015% to 0.15%. Preferably, the crosslinking agent and/or the branching agent is chosen from ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, sodium diallyloxyacetate, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate and methylenebis(acrylamide).
  • In the composition as defined above, the emulsifying system of water-in-oil (W/O) type consists either of a sole surfactant or of a mixture of surfactants on condition that the HLB value of the said mixture is low enough to induce water-in-oil emulsions. As emulsifiers of water-in-oil type, there are, for example, sorbitan esters, for instance sorbitan oleate, for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montane™ 80, sorbitan isostearate, for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montane™ 70, or sorbitan sesquioleate, for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montane™ 83. There are also certain polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, for example pentaethoxylated sorbitan monooleate, for instance the product sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanox™ 81 or pentaethoxylated sorbitan isostearate, for instance the product sold under the name Montanox™ 71 by the company SEPPIC. There is also diethoxylated oleocetyl alcohol, for instance the product sold under the name Simulsol™ OC 72 by the company SEPPIC, tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate, for instance the product sold under the name Blemmer™ ALE 200 or polyesters with a molecular weight of between 1000 and 3000, produced from condensation between a poly(isobutenyl)succinic acid or its anhydride and polyethylene glycol, such as Hypermer™ M 2296 sold by the company Uniqema, or, finally, block copolymers with a molecular weight of between 2500 and 3500, for instance Hypermer™ B246 sold by the company Uniqema or Simaline™ IE 200 sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • The composition that is the subject of the present invention generally comprises from 2% to 8% by mass of emulsifying system of water-in-oil (W/Q) type.
  • When the composition as defined above comprises an emulsifying system of oil-in-water (O/W) type, it consists either of a sole surfactant or of a mixture of surfactants, on condition that the HLB value of the said mixture is high enough to induce oil-in-water emulsions. As emulsifiers of oil-in-water type, there are, for example, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, for instance sorbitan oleate polyethoxylated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanox™ 80, sorbitan laurate polyethoxylated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanox™ 20, castor oil polyethoxylated with 40 mol of ethylene oxide, sold under the name Simulsol™ OL50, decaethoxylated oleodecyl alcohol, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Simulsol™ OC710, heptaethoxylated lauryl alcohol, sold under the name Simulsol™ P7 or sorbitan monostearate polyethoxylated with 20 mol of ethylene oxide, sold by the company SEPPIC under the name Montanox™ 60.
  • When the composition that is the subject of the present invention comprises an emulsifying system of oil-inwater (O/W) type, it generally comprises from 3% to 8% by mass of this system.
  • According to one particular aspect of the present invention, the composition as defined above comprises an (O/W) emulsifying system.
  • In the composition that is the subject of the present invention, the oil phase comprises a commercial mineral oil containing saturated hydrocarbons, for instance paraffins, isoparaffins or cycloparaffins, having at room temperature a density of between 0.7 and 0.9 and a boiling point of greater than about 250° C., for instance Marcol™ 52, Isopar™ M or Isopar™ L sold by Exxon Chemical; isohexadecane, identified in Chemical Abstracts by the number RN=93685-80-4, which is a mixture of C12, C16 and C20 isoparaffins containing at least 97% of C16 isoparaffins, among which the main constituent is 2,2,4,4,6,8,8-heptamethylnonane (RN=4390-04-9); it is sold in France by the company Bayer, or isododecane also sold in France by the company Bayer; or a synthetic oil such as hydrogenated polydecene or hydrogenated polyisobutene, sold in France by the company Ets B. Rossow et Cie under the name Parleam-Polysynlane™. It is cited in: Michel and Irene Ash; Thesaurus of Chemical Products, Chemical Publishing Co. Inc. 1986 Volume I, page 211 (ISBN 0 7131 3603 0); or a plant oil, for instance squalane of plant origin sold in France by the company Sophim, under the name Phytosqualane™ and identified in Chemical Abstracts by the number RN=111-01-3; it is a mixture of hydrocarbons containing more than 80% by weight of 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosane, or of a mixture of several of these oils.
  • The oil phase may also comprise fatty acid esters.
  • In the context of the present invention, the term “fatty acid ester” means a compound of formula (I):

  • R1—(C═O)—O—[[CH2—CH[O—[C(═O)]m—R2]—CH2—O]n—[C(═O)]p]q—R3  (I)
  • in which:
      • R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms,
      • R2 represents, independently of R1, a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 7 to 30 carbon atoms,
      • R3 represents, independently of R1 or R2, a hydrogen atom or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,
      • m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, equal to 0 or 1, it being understood that when R3 represents a hydrogen atom, q is other than 0.
  • In formula (I) as defined above, R1, R2 and R3 especially represent, independently of each other, a radical chosen from heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl, eicosyl, uneicosyl, docosyl, heptadecenyl, eicosenyl, uneicosenyl, docosenyl, heptadecadienyl and decenyl radicals; the group R1—C(═O)— more particularly represents one of the following radicals: octanoyl (caprylyl), decanoyl, undecylenoyl, dodecanoyl (lauroyl), tetradecanoyl (myristyl), hexadecanoyl (palmitoyl), octadecanoyl (stearyl), eicosanoyl (arachidoyl), docosenoyl (behenoyl), 8-octadecenoyl (oleyl), eicosenoyl (gadoloyl), 13-docosenoyl (erucyl), 9,12-octadecadienoyl (linoleoyl), 9,12,15octadecatrienoyl (linolenoyl).
  • The oil phase may more particularly comprise a compound of formula (Ia):

  • R1—(C═O)—O—CH2—CH[O—[C(═O)]m—R2]—CH2—O—[C(═O)]p—R3  (Ia)
  • corresponding to formula (I) as defined above in which q and n are equal to 1, or a mixture of compounds of formula (Ia). In this case, it is preferably
    either a compound of formula (Ia1):

  • R1—(C═O)—O—CH2—CH(OH)—CH2—OH  (Ia1)
  • corresponding to formula (Ia) as defined above in which m and p are equal to O and R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom,
    or a compound of formula (Ia2):

  • R1—(C═O)—O—CH2—CH(OH)—CH2—O—C(═O)—R3  (Ia2)
  • corresponding to formula (Ia) as defined above in which p is equal to 1, m is equal to 0 and R2 represents a hydrogen atom,
    or a compound of formula (Ia3):

  • R1—(C═O)—O—CH2—CH[O—C(═O)—R2]—CH2—O—C(═O)—R3  (Ia3)
  • corresponding to formula (Ia) as defined above in which m and p are equal to 1,
    or a mixture of compounds of formulae (Ia1), (Ia2) and/or (Ia3).
  • As examples of compounds of formula (Ia1), (Ia2) or (Ia3), there are, for example, fatty acid triglycerides or fatty acid mixtures such as the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 10 carbon atoms, sold under the name Softenol™ 3819, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 10 carbon atoms, sold under the name Softenol™ 3108, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, sold under the name Softenol™ 3178, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, sold under the name Softenol™ 3100, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 7 carbon atoms, sold under the name Softenol™ 3107, the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 14 carbon atoms, sold under the name Softenol™ 3114, or the mixture of fatty acid triglycerides containing 18 carbon atoms, sold under the name Softenol™ 3118, glyceryl dilaurate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl isostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monoisostearate or glyceryl monostearate, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • The oil phase may more particularly comprise a compound of formula (Ib):

  • R1—(C═O)—O—R3  (Ib)
  • corresponding to formula (I) as defined above in which q is equal to 0, or a mixture of compounds of formula (Ib).
  • An example of a compound of formula (Ib) is, for example, octyl palmitate.
  • The inverse latex as defined above generally contains from 4% to 10% by weight of emulsifiers.
  • Its oil phase represents from 15% to 40% and preferably from 20% to 25% of the total weight of the composition.
  • The aqueous phase represents from 2% to 40% of the total weight of the composition.
  • According to another particular aspect of the present invention, a subject thereof is a composition as defined above in which the copolymer is chosen from:
      • crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide;
      • crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the ammonium salt and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide;
      • crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the potassium salt and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide;
      • crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, of the potassium salt or of the ammonium salt, of acrylic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide;
      • crosslinked tetrapolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of acrylic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of acrylamide;
      • crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of acrylamide;
      • crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of N-isopropylacrylamide;
      • crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of N-[2-hydroxy-1,1-bis(hydroxymethyl)ethyl]propenamide;
      • crosslinked tetrapolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of acrylic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate;
      • crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate.
  • According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the composition as defined above comprises at least 50% by weight and not more than 70% by weight of polyelectrolyte. In this case, the composition is preferably prepared by performing the following process:
      • a) an aqueous phase containing the monomers and the possible hydrophilic additives is emulsified in an organic phase containing the surfactant system of water-in-oil (W/O) type, a mixture consisting of the oil intended to be present in the final composition and of a volatile oil, and the possible hydrophobic additives,
      • b) the polymerization reaction is initiated by introducing a free-radical initiator into the emulsion formed in a), and the reaction is then allowed to proceed, and
      • c) the reaction medium from step b) is concentrated by distillation until the said volatile oil has been completely removed.
  • The volatile oils that are suitable for performing the process as defined above are, for example, light isoparaffins containing from 8 to 11 carbon atoms, for instance those sold under the names Isopar™ G, Isopar™ L, Isopar™ H or Isopar™ J.
  • According to one preferred embodiment of the process as defined above, the polymerization reaction is initiated with a redox couple, such as the cumene hydroperoxide/sodium metabisulfite couple, at a temperature of less than or equal to 10° C., and is then performed either quasi-adiabatically up to a temperature of greater than or equal to 40° C. and more particularly greater than or equal to 50° C., or by controlling the change of the temperature.
  • When step c) is complete, the emulsifying system of oil-in-water type is introduced, if desired, at a temperature below 50° C.
  • When the composition as defined above comprises less than 50% by weight of polyelectrolyte, it is preferably prepared by performing the following process:
      • a) an aqueous phase containing the monomers and the possible additives is emulsified in an oil phase in the presence of one or more emulsifiers of water-in-oil type,
      • b) the polymerization reaction is initiated by introducing a free-radical initiator into the emulsion formed in a), and the reaction is then allowed to proceed,
      • c) when the polymerization reaction is complete, one or more emulsifiers of oil-in-water type are introduced, if desired, at a temperature below 50° C.
  • According to one variant of this process, the reaction medium obtained form step b) is concentrated by distillation before performing step c).
  • According to one preferred embodiment of the process as defined above, the polymerization reaction is initiated with a redox couple, such as the cumene hydroperoxide/sodium metabisulfite couple, at a temperature of less than or equal to 10° C., and is then performed either quasi-adiabatically up to a temperature of greater than or equal to 40° C. and more particularly greater than or equal to 50° C., or by controlling the change of the temperature.
  • According to another preferred embodiment of the process, the aqueous starting solution is adjusted to a pH of less than or equal to 4 before performing step a).
  • According to another particular aspect of the present invention, the composition as defined above comprises not more than 30% by weight of polyelectrolyte.
  • A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition, characterized in that it comprises as thickening and/or emulsifying compound at least one inverse latex as defined above.
  • The cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition defined above generally comprises from 0.1% to 10% and more particularly between 0.5% and 5% by weight of the said inverse latex. It is especially in the form of a milk, a lotion, a gel, a cream-gel, a cream, a soap, a bubblebath, a balm, a shampoo or a conditioner.
  • According to one preferred aspect of the present invention, the cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition as defined above is a topical composition.
  • A subject of the invention is also the use of the inverse latex as defined above for proposing a cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical topical composition.
  • The topical composition according to the invention, intended to be applied to the skin or mucous membranes of man or animals, may consist of a topical emulsion comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one oil phase. This topical emulsion may be of the oil-inwater type. More particularly, this topical emulsion may consist of a fluid emulsion, such as a milk or a fluid gel. The oil phase of the topical emulsion may consist of a mixture of one or more oils.
  • A topical composition according to the invention may be intended for cosmetic use or may be used to prepare a medicament for treating skin and mucous membrane diseases. In the latter case, the topical composition then comprises an active principle that may consist, for example, of an anti-inflammatory agent, a muscle relaxant, an antifungal agent or an antibacterial agent.
  • The compositions according to the invention may also contain ingredients usually used in the cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical fields and known to those skilled in the art, such as fats (oils, butters, waxes, fatty acids and gums), emulsifiers and coemulsifiers, gelling agents and/or stabilizers and/or film-forming agents, fillers, pigments, sunscreens, humectants, solvents and cosolvents, plasticizers, sequestrants, antioxidants, fragrances, preserving agents or active principles. As examples of oils that may be combined with the composition of the invention, mention may be made of paraffins, isoparaffins, white mineral oils, plant oils, animal oils, synthetic oils, silicone oils and fluoro oils; and more particularly:
      • oils of plant origin, such as sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut oil, sunflower oil, wheatgerm oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, beauty-leaf oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil and floral or legume oils; ethoxylated plant oils; oils of animal origin, such as squalene and squalane; mineral oils, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly and isoparaffins; synthetic oils, especially fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate or isocetyl lanolate, fatty acid monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides, for instance glyceryl triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, poly-α-olefins, polyolefins, for instance polyisobutene, synthetic isoalkanes, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluoro oils and silicone oils. Among the silicone oils, mention may be made more particularly of dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, silicones modified with amines, silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and fatty acids, silicones modified with polyether groups, epoxy-modified silicones, silicones modified with fluoro groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups.
  • As another fatty substance that may be combined with the composition of the invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohols or fatty acids.
  • The fatty phase of the preparations according to the invention may also contain waxes such as beeswax; carnauba wax; candelilla wax, ouricury wax; japan wax; cork fibre wax or sugarcane wax; paraffin waxes; lignite waxes; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; hydrogenated oils; silicone waxes; plant waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature; glycerides that are solid at room temperature.
  • The inverse latex according to the invention may optionally be combined with other thickening and/or emulsifying polymers. Examples that may be mentioned include homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylic acid derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, of vinyl monomer, of trimethylaminoethyl acrylate chloride sold under the names Carbopol™ Ultrez™ 10, Pemulen™ TR1, Pemulen™ TR2, Simulgel™ A, Simulgel™ NS, Simulgel™ EPG, Simulgel™ EG, Luvigel™ EM, Salcare™ SC91, Salcare™ SC92, Salcare™ SC95, Salcare™ SC96, Flocare™ ET100, Hispagel™, Sepigel™ 305, Sepigel™ 501, Sepigel™ 502, Sepiplus, Flocare™ ET58 and Stabileze™ 06; hydrocolloids of plant or biosynthetic origin, for instance xanthan gum, karaya gum, carrageenates or alginates; silicates; cellulose and its derivatives; starch and its hydrophilic derivatives; polyurethanes.
  • The composition according to the invention is also an advantageous substitute for those sold under the names Sepigel™ 305, Sepigel™ 501, Simulgel™ EG, Simulgel™ NS or Simulgel™ 600 by the Applicant, since it also shows good compatibility with the other excipients used for the preparation of formulations such as milks, lotions, creams, cream-gels, soaps, bubblebaths, balms, shampoos or hair conditioners.
  • It is especially compatible with the concentrates described and claimed in the international publications WO 92/06778, WO 95/04592, WO 95/13863, WO 96/37285, WO 98/22207, and WO 98/47610 or in FR 2 734 496, with the surfactants described in WO 93/08204.
  • Among the emulsifiers that may be used in the presence of the inverse latex according to the invention, examples that may be mentioned include fatty acids; ethoxylated fatty acids; fatty acid esters of sorbitol; ethoxylated fatty acid esters; polysorbates; polyglycerol esters; ethoxylated fatty alcohols; sucrose esters; alkylpolyglycosides; sulfated or phosphated fatty alcohols or mixtures of alkylpolyglycosides and of fatty alcohols described in French patent applications 2 668 080, 2 734 496, 2 756 195, 2 762 317, 2 784 680, 2 784 904, 2 791 565, 2 790 977, 2 807 435 and 2 804 432, Sensanov and Fluidanov.
  • The cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition as defined above may also comprise texture agents and/or fillers, for instance acrylic and methacrylic acid copolymers, starches, silicas, calcium, magnesium, aluminium or barium silicates, calcium phosphate, natural fibres such as cotton fibre, cellulose fibre or chitosan fibre, or synthetic fibres such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibre, rayon fibre, viscose fibre, cellulose acetate fibre, poly-p-phenyleneterephthamide fibre (Kevlar®), polyethylene or polypropylene fibre, glass fibre, carbon fibre, Teflon fibre, polyester fibre, polyvinyl chloride fibre, polyvinyl alcohol fibre, polyacrylonitrile fibre, polyurethane fibre or polyethylene phthalate fibre, talc, mica, sericite, silica, boron nitride, lauroyllysine, silicone resin powders, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, titanium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, titanium micas, iron oxides and other mineral or organic pigments, or a mixture of these powders.
  • As examples of active principles that may be combined with the inverse latex according to the invention, mention may be made of compounds with a lightening or depigmenting action, a moisturizing action, a tensioning action, a calmative or relaxing action, a purifying, seboregulatory or hair-loss-countering action, an anti-ageing action, or a firming, restructuring action, a free-radical-scavenging action, an antioxidant action or a self-tanning action. The composition of the invention may thus be combined with active agents such as, for example, arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone, ellagic acid, vitamin C and its derivatives, Stay C, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and its derivatives, ascorbyl glucoside, phytic acid, fruit acids, rucinol or resorcinol, azeleic acid, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), lipoic acid, Vegewhite™, Gatuline™, Synerlight™, Biowhite™, Phytolight™, Dermalight™, Clariskin™, Melaslow™, Dermawhite™, Ethioline™, Melarest™, Gigawhite™, Albatine™, Lumiskin™, polyphenol extracts, grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts, tea extracts, cocoa extracts, Amazonian forest plant extracts, legume extracts, floral extracts, fruit extracts, mint extracts, pond extracts, N-acyl proteins, N-acyl peptides, for instance Matrixyl™, N-acylamino acids, partial hydrolysates of N-acyl proteins, amino acids, peptides, total protein hydrolysates, partial protein hydrolysates, polyols (for instance glycerol, butylene glycol, etc.), milk derivatives, Aquaxyl™, urea, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid or derivatives of this acid, glycyrrhetinic acid or its derivatives, α-bisabolol, sugars or sugar derivatives, polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, hydroxy acids, for instance lactic acid or salicylic acid, vitamins, vitamin derivatives, for instance retinol, retinol derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, minerals, trace elements, extracts of rocks or stones, enzymes or derivatives thereof, coenzymes or derivatives thereof, for instance coenzyme Q10, hormones or “hormone-like” substances, for instance Phyto Age™, soybean extracts, for instance Raffermine™, wheat extracts, for instance Tensine™ or Gliadine™, plant extracts, tannin-rich plant extracts, isoflavone-rich extracts or terpene-rich extracts, freshwater or saltwater algal extracts, marine extracts in general, including coral extracts, essential waxes, bacterial extracts, minerals, for instance the range of Givobio™ products and especially the calcium, magnesium, copper, cobalt, zinc, manganese, etc. derivatives, lipids in general, lipids such as ceramides or phospholipids and also derivatives, active agents with a slimming action, for instance caffeine or its derivatives, active agents that improve the capillary circulation of the skin, for instance venotonic agents, draining active agents, decongestive active agents such as ginko biloba, ivy, common horsechestnut, bamboo, ruscus, centella asiatica, fucus, rosemary or sage, active agents with antimicrobial activity or a purifying action on greasy skin, for instance copper or zinc derivatives or octopirox or Sensiva SC50, active agents with energizing or stimulating properties, for instance Sepitonic™ M3 or Physiogenyl™, panthenol and its derivatives, for instance Sepicap™ MP, anti-ageing active agents, Sepivinol™, Sepivital™, Manoliva™ and Phyto Age™. The composition of the invention may also more generally be combined with anti-ageing active agents for combating photo-ageing, the targeted active agents protecting the integrity of the dermo-epidermal junction, active agents that increase the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix (for instance collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans, etc.), active agents that act favourably on chemical (cytokines) or physical (integrins) cell communication, active agents with a restructuring effect, active agents with a cicatrizing effect, active agents with a firming effect, active agents with a “botox-like” effect, active agents that act on expression wrinkles, active agents that act on the calcium channels, active agents that improve the integrity of the skin barrier, active agents that act on specific skin enzymes, active agents that act on specific cell receptors, active agents that improve cell communication, active agents with a free-radical-scavenging or anti-oxidant effect, active agents with a “tensioning” effect and active agents with an antidandruff, anti-acne, calmative or anti-neuromediator effect. The composition containing the polymer according to the invention may also be combined with active agents that afford a heating effect on the skin, such as skin capillary circulation activators (for example nicotinates) or ingredients that create, conversely, a sensation of freshness on application (for example menthol).
  • As sunscreens that may be incorporated with the composition of the invention, mention may be made of any of those featured in the amended Cosmetic Directive 76/768/EEC appendix VII.
  • According to this preferred aspect, the sunscreen is more particularly chosen from lipophilic sunscreens, for instance octocrylene, etocrylene, homosalate, for instance Eusolex™ HMS, octyl para-methoxycinnamate, for instance Parsol™ MCX, octinoxate, octisalate, avobenzone, oxybenzone, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, for instance Uvinul M-40, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-12, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, menthyl anthranilate, methylbenzylidenecamphor or isopropyldibenzoylmethane.
  • The sunscreen as defined above may also comprise one or more lipophobic sunscreens, for instance titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, benzophenone-4, TEA salicylate, PABA and DEA methoxycinnamate.
  • The sunscreen as defined above may also comprise one or more oil absorbers, for instance silica, whether these are spherical silicas, for instance Spheron™ L-1500, porous silica or pyrogenic silica, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymethyl methacrylate, for instance the Micropearl™ products, dextrins, cyclodextrins, molecular sieves, for instance zeolites, Nylon 6 or 12, sodium calcium aluminosilicate, talc or mica.
  • The sunscreen as defined above may also comprise one or more esters of neopentanoic acid with an isoalkyl alcohol containing from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In this case, it preferably comprises isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or isoarachidyl neopentanoate.
  • According to a particular aspect of the invention, the cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition comprises an efficient quantity of dihydroxyacetone and more particularly between 1% and 8% by weight of the composition of dihydroxyacetone.
  • According to a more particular aspect of the invention, the cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition comprises either dihydroxyacetone and at least a hydroxy acid such as lactic acid, salicylic acid, gluconic acid or kojic acid either dihydroxyacetone and at least one sunscreen agent either dihydroxyacetone and at least one moisturizing agent, either dihydroxyacetone and at least on slimming agent such as caffeine.
  • The examples that follow are intended to illustrate the present invention without, however, limiting it. They show that the novel inverse lattices do not irritate the skin and that their physical properties allow them to be used in the preparation of cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical compositions more particularly intended for treating sensitive skin.
  • A)—EXAMPLES OF PREPARATION OF COMPOSITIONS TO THE INVENTION Example 1 Inverse Latex of an (AMPS Na Salt)/DMA Copolymer (90/10), Crosslinked with Methylenebis(Acrylamide), in Isohexadecane (Composition 1)
  • a)—The following are placed in a reactor with stirring:
      • 17.0 g of deionized water,
      • 662.1 g of a commercial solution containing 55% sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate (AMPS Na salt),
      • 17.5 g of N,N-dimethylacrylamide (DMA),
      • 0.45 g of sodium diethylenetriaminepentaacetate,
      • 0.068 g of methylenebis(acrylamide).
  • The pH of this aqueous solution is equal to 5.5.
  • b)—An organic phase is prepared by mixing together:
      • 235 g of isohexadecane,
      • 20 g of sorbitan isostearate (Montane™ 70)
      • 5 g of Hypermer™ 2296,
      • 0.058 g of azobis(isobutyronitrile).
        c)—The aqueous phase is gradually introduced into the organic phase and the mixture is stirred vigorously using a Silverson™ or IKA™ stirrer, for example. The emulsion obtained is then transferred into a polymerization reactor, sparged with nitrogen and then cooled to about 5-6° C. 250 ml of a solution containing 0.635% by weight of cumene hydroperoxide in isohexadecane is then added, followed, after homogenization of the solution, by addition of an aqueous solution of sodium metabisulfite (0.2% by weight in water) at a rate of 0.2 ml/minute for about 60 minutes, while allowing the temperature to rise to room temperature at the end of polymerization. The reaction medium is then maintained for about 90 minutes at this temperature. 5% of polysorbate 60 (Montanox™ 60) is then added to obtain the desired inverse latex.
    Evaluation of the Properties
  • Viscosity of the inverse latex at 2% by mass in deionized water
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=33 400 mPa·s
    Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water+0.1% NaCl
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=17 200 mPa·s
  • Example 2 Inverse Latex of an (AMPS Na Salt)/DMA Copolymer (90/10), Crosslinked with Methylenebis(Acrylamide), in Isohexadecane (Composition 2)
  • The experimental conditions of Example 1 are reproduced, but using 0.109 g of methylenebisacrylamide instead of the 0.068 g of the above example. The expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • Evaluation of the Properties
  • Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=77 400 mPa·s
    Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water+0.1% NaCl
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=11 780 mPa·s
  • Example 3 Inverse Latex of an (AMPS Na Salt)/DMA Copolymer (80/20), Crosslinked with Methylenebis(Acrylamide), in Isohexadecane (Composition 3)
  • The experimental conditions of Example 1 are reproduced, but using 622.9 g of a commercial solution containing 55% sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate (AMPS Na salt) and 37 g of N,N-dimethylacrylamide (DMA) to obtain a desired (AMPS Na salt)/DMA mole ratio (80/20), and also 0.072 g of methylenebisacrylamide. The expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • Evaluation of the Properties
  • Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=54 800 mPa·s
    Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water+0.1% NaCl
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=17 200 mPa·s
  • Example 4 Inverse Latex of an (AMPS Na Salt)/DMA Copolymer (50/50), Crosslinked with Methylenebis(Acrylamide), in Isohexadecane (Composition 4)
  • The experimental conditions of Example 1 are reproduced, but using 471.6 g of a commercial solution containing 55% sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate (AMPS Na salt) and 112 g of N,N-dimethylacrylamide (DMA) to obtain the desired (AMPS Na salt)/DMA mole ratio (50/50), and also 0.087 g of methylenebisacrylamide. The expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • Evaluation of the Properties
  • Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=106 000 mPa·s
    Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water+0.1% NaCl
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=23 200 mPa·s
  • Example 5 Inverse Latex of an (AMPS Na Salt)/DMA Copolymer (40/60), Crosslinked with Methylenebis(Acrylamide), in Isohexadecane (Composition 5)
  • The experimental conditions of Example 1 are reproduced, but using 388.6 g of a commercial solution containing 55% sodium 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonate (AMPS Na salt) and 138.6 g of N,N-dimethylacrylamide (DMA) to obtain the desired (AMPS Na salt)/DMA mole ratio (40/60), and also 0.089 g of methylenebisacrylamide. The expected inverse latex is obtained.
  • Evaluation of the Properties
  • Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=89 400 mPa·s
    Viscosity of the inverse latex at 3% by mass in deionized water+0.1% NaCl
    (Brookfield RVT spindle 6, speed 5): η=17 820 mPa·s
  • B)—COMPARISON BETWEEN THE PROPERTIES OF AN INVERSE LATEX ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION AND AN INVERSE LATEX ACCORDING TO THE PRIOR ART
  • The performance qualities of the inverse latex according to the invention of Example 5 (Composition 5) were compared with those of an inverse latex of an (AMPS Na salt)/acrylamide copolymer (40/60), crosslinked with methylenebis(acrylamide) of the prior art (composition a).
  • a) Establishment of the Viscosity Curves as a Function of the Concentration of Each of the Inverse Latices
  • Samples are prepared at each of the measured concentrations, by gradually adding the required amount of water to each of the inverse latices.
  • Their viscosity was measured (Brookfield RVT viscometer spindle 6, speed 5), after leaving them to stand for 7 days at room temperature. The results given in the table below are obtained.
  • Viscosities (in mPa · s)
    Concentrations Composition 5 Composition (a)
    0.5%  1 300  1 200
    1.0% 20 000  18 500
    1.5% 46 000  53 000
    2.0% 58 000  81 000
    2.5% 77 000  92 000
    3.0% 87 000 108 000
    3.5% 97 000 128 000
    4.0% 100 000  134 000
    4.5% 114 000  147 000
    5.0% 118 000  168 000
  • These measurements show similar behaviour in terms of viscosity as a function, of the concentration for the two inverse latices.
  • b) Oil-Stabilizing Power of Each of the Inverse Latices
  • The object of the experiments is to determine the maximum amount of oil that can be incorporated into an aqueous gel of the inverse latex according to the invention of Example 5 (Composition 5).
  • An aqueous gel of each of the inverse latices having a viscosity of 100 000 mPa·s at room temperature is prepared. Samples of cream-gels are prepared by adding the oil (Primol™ 352 or Triglyceride 5545). The observations are given in the following tables and in FIGS. 1 and 2.
  • Mass concentrations of Triglyceride 5545 in the cream-gel
    prepared with Composition 5
    30% 35% 40% 45% 50% 55% 60% 65% 70%
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 1 day
    compact compact compact compact compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white white white white white
    5.4 5.4 5.4 5.5 5.6 5.6 5.6 6.7 6.2
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 1 day at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    117 121 125 120 140 140 110 110 145
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 7 days
    compact compact compact compact compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white white white white white
    5.3 5.4 5.5 5.7 5.6 5.8 5.8 5.7 6.2
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 7 days at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    107 124 120 124 125 n.s. 108-145 71-156 56-114
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 1 month
    compact compact compact compact compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white white white white white
    4.8 4.8 4.8 5.2 5.1 4.9 4.8 5.0 5.3
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 1 month at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    108 119 124 126 127 143 135 92-132 143-186
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 3 months
    compact compact compact compact compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white white white white white
    4.9 4.7 4.6 4.9 4.7 4.7 4.6 5.1
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 3 months at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    95 n.s. n.s. n.s. n.s. n.s. n.s. n.s. n.s.
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 6 months
    compact compact compact compact compact n.s. compact compact compact
    white white white white white white white white
    4.4 4.4 4.3 n.s. n.s. n.s. 4.6 5.2 4.9
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 6 months at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    110 105 n.s. n.s. n.s. n.s. 96-183 n.s. n.s.
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable stable
  • Mass concentrations of Primol ™ 352 in the cream-gel prepared
    with Composition 5
    30% 40% 50% 60% 70%
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 1 day
    compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white
    5.0 4.9 4.8 4.9 5.0
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 1 day at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    110 104 122 105 53-117
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 7 days
    compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white
    4.8 4.8 5.2 4.9 4.9
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 7 days at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    91 108 114 105 n.s.
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable
    compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 1 month
    5.3 5.2 5.2 5.5 5.3
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 1 month at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    105 108 111 115 110
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 3 months
    compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white
    4.2 4.3 4.3 4.7 5.8
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 3 months at room
    temperature (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5;
    in Pa · s)
    80 55 41 63 n.s.
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable stable
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 6 months
    compact compact compact compact compact
    white white white white white
    4.3 4.4 4.5 n.s. n.s.
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 6 months at room
    temperature (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5;
    in Pa · s)
    72 80 35 n.s. n.s.
    Stability of the cream-gel at 40° C. and at 50° C.
    stable stable stable stable exudation
  • The results demonstrate that Composition 5 makes it possible to emulsify up to 65% of Trigly 5545 (caprylic/capric triglycerides) and up to 60% of Primol™ 352. The same measurements performed on emulsions prepared from inverse latex of an (AMPS Na salt)/acrylamide copolymer (40/60), crosslinked with methylenebis(acrylamide), of the prior art (Composition a), reveal that the maximum amounts emulsified are 45% for Trigly 5545 (see table below and FIG. 3).
  • Mass concentrations of Triglyceride 5545 in the cream-gel
    prepared with Composition a
    40% 45% 50%
    Appearance and pH of the cream-gel after 1 day
    compact white compact white off-white emulsion
       4.7    4.7
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 1 day at room temperature
    (Brookfield RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
    110 70 n.d.
    Viscosity of the cream-gel after 1 day at 45° C. (Brookfield
    RTV viscometer, spindle 6 speed 5; in Pa · s)
     80 30 n.d.
  • The same measurements performed on emulsions prepared from inverse latex of an (AMPS Na salt)/acrylamide copolymer (40/60), crosslinked with methylenebis(acrylamide), of the prior art (Composition a), reveal that the maximum amounts emulsified are 40% for Primol™ 352.
  • It results therefrom that this advantage follows from the substitution in the polymer of the acrylamide monomer with the N,N-dimethylacrylamide monomer.
  • C) EXAMPLES OF FORMULATIONS PREPARED WITH THE COMPOSITIONS ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION Example 6 Care Cream
  • Cyclomethicone: 10%
    Inverse latex of Example 1: 0.8%
    Montanov ™ 68: 2%
    Stearyl alcohol: 1%
    Stearyl alcohol: 0.5%
    Preserving agent: 0.65%
    Lysine: 0.025%
    EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05%
    Xanthan gum: 0.2%
    Glycerol: 3%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 7 Aftershave Balm Formula
  • A Inverse latex of Example 3:  1.5%
    Water: qs 100%
    B Micropearl ™ M 100:  5.0%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.50%
    Fragrance: 0.20%
    95° ethanol: 10.0%
  • Procedure
  • Add B to A.
  • Example 8 Satin Body Emulsion Formula
  • A Simulsol ™ 165:  5.0%
    Lanol ™ 1688: 8.50%
    Shea butter:   2%
    Liquid paraffin:  6.5%
    Lanol ™ 14M:   3%
    Lanol ™ S:  0.6%
    B Water: 66.2%
    C Micropearl ™ M 100:   5%
    D Inverse latex of Example 5:   3%
    E Sepicide ™ CI:  0.3%
    Sepicide ™ HB:  0.5%
    Aquaxyl ™:   3%
    Fragrance: 0.20%
    Vitamin E acetate: 0.20%
    Sodium pyrolidinonecarboxylate:   1%
  • Procedure
  • Add C to B, emulsify B in A at 70° C. and then add D at 60° C., followed by E at 30° C.
  • Example 9 O/W Cream Formula
  • A Simulsol ™ 165:  5.0%
    Lanol ™ 1688: 20.0%
    Lanol ™ P:  1.0%
    B Water: qs 100%
    C Inverse latex of Example 2: 2.50%
    D Sepicide ™ CI: 0.20%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.30%
  • Procedure
  • Introduce B into A at about 75° C.; add C at about 60° C., then D at about 45° C.
  • Example 10 Non-Greasy Antisun Gel Formula
  • A Inverse latex of Example 4: 3.00%
    Water:   30%
    B Sepicide ™ CI: 0.20%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.30%
    Fragrance: 0.10%
    C Dye: qs
    Water:   30%
    D Micropearl ™ M 100: 3.00%
    Water: qs 100%
    E Silicone oil:  2.0%
    Parsol ™ MCX: 5.00%
  • Procedure
  • Introduce B into A; add C, then D, then E.
  • Example 11 Antisun Milk Formula
  • A Montanov ™ S:  3.0%
    Sesame oil:  5.0%
    Parsol ™ MCX:  5.0%
    Carrageenan λ: 0.10%
    B Water: qs 100%
    C Inverse latex of Example 1: 0.80%
    D Fragrance: qs
    Preserving agent: qs
  • Procedure
  • Emulsify B in A at 75° C. then add C at about 60° C., followed by D at about 30° C., and adjust the pH if necessary.
  • Example 12 Massage Gel Formula
  • A Inverse latex of Example 3:  3.5%
    Water: 20.0%
    B Dye: 2 drops/100 g
    Water: qs
    C Alcohol:   10%
    Menthol: 0.10%
    D Silicone oil:  5.0%
  • Procedure
  • Add B to A, then add C to the mixture, followed by D.
  • Example 13 Moisturizing and Matting Foundation Formula
  • A Water: 20.0% 
    Butylene glycol: 4.0%
    PEG-400: 4.0%
    Pecosil ™ PS100: 1.0%
    NaOH: qs pH = 9
    Titanium dioxide: 7.0%
    Talc: 2.0%
    Yellow iron oxide: 0.8%
    Red iron oxide: 0.3%
    Black iron oxide: 0.05% 
    B Lanol ™ 99:   8%
    Caprylic/capric triglyceride:   8%
    Montanov ™ 202: 5.00% 
    C Water: qs 100%
    Micropearl ™ M305: 2.0%
    Tetrasodium EDTA: 0.05% 
    D Cyclomethicone: 4.0%
    Xanthan gum: 0.2%
    Inverse latex of Example 5: 0.8%
    E Sepicide ™ HB: 0.5%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.3%
    Fragrance: 0.2%
  • Procedure
  • Prepare mixtures B+D and A+C at 80° C., then mix together and emulsify the whole.
  • Example 14 Radiance Gel Formula
  • A Inverse latex of Example 5:  4%
    Water: 30%
    B Elastine HPM: 5.0% 
    C Micropearl ™ M 100:  3%
    Water:  5%
    D Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2% 
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3% 
    Fragrance: 0.06%  
    Sodium pyrolidinonecarboxylate
    50%:  1%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Procedure
  • Prepare A; add B, then C, then D.
  • Example 15 Body Milk Formula
  • Montanov ™ S: 3.5%
    Lanol ™ 37T: 8.0%
    Solagum ™ L: 0.05% 
    Water: qs 100%
    Benzophenone-3: 2.0%
    Dimethicone 350 cPs: 0.05% 
    Inverse latex of Example 4: 0.8%
    Preserving agent: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.4%
  • Example 16 Makeup-Removing Emulsion with Sweet Almond Oil Formula
  • Montanov ™ 68:   5%
    Sweet almond oil:   5%
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 3: 0.3%
    Glycerol:   5%
    Preserving agent: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.3%
  • Example 17 Moisturizing Cream for Greasy Skin Formula
  • Montanov ™ 68:   5%
    Cetylstearyl octanoate:   8%
    Octyl palmitate:   2%
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 2: 0.6%
    Micropearl ™ M 100: 3.0%
    Mucopolysaccharides:   5%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.8%
    Fragrance: 0.3%
  • Example 18 Alcohol-Free Soothing Aftershave Balm Formula
  • A Lipacide ™ PVB: 1.0%
    Lanol ™ 99: 2.0%
    Sweet almond oil: 0.5%
    B Inverse latex of Example 1: 3.5%
    C Water: qs 100%
    D Fragrance: 0.4%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.4%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
  • Example 19 Cream with AHA for Sensitive Skin Formula
  • Mixture of lauryl amino acids: 0.1% to 5%  
    Magnesium potassium aspartate: 0.002% to 0.5% 
    Lanol ™ 99:   2%
    Montanov ™ 68: 5.0%
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 4: 1.50% 
    Gluconic acid: 1.50% 
    Triethylamine: 0.9%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.4%
  • Example 20 After-Sun Soothing Care Formula
  • Mixture of lauryl amino acids: 0.1% to 5%  
    Magnesium potassium aspartate: 0.002% to 0.5% 
    Lanol ™ 99: 10.0% 
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 2: 2.50% 
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.4%
    Dye: 0.03% 
  • Example 21 Makeup-Removing Milk Formula
  • Sepiperl ™ N:   3%
    Primol ™ 352: 8.0%
    Sweet almond oil:   2%
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 5: 0.8%
    Preserving agent: 0.2%
  • Example 22 Fluid Emulsion of Alkaline pH
  • Marcol ™ 82: 5.0%
    NaOH: 10.0% 
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 1: 1.5%
  • Example 23 Fluid Foundation Formula
  • Simulsol ™ 165: 5.0%
    Lanol ™ 84D: 8.0%
    Lanol ™ 99: 5.0%
    Water: qs 100%
    Mineral fillers and pigments: 10.0% 
    Inverse latex of Example 5: 1.2%
    Preserving agent: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.4%
  • Example 24 Antisun Milk Formula
  • Sepiperl ™ N: 3.5%
    Lanol ™ 37T: 10.0% 
    Parsol ™ MCX: 5.0%
    Eusolex ™ 4360: 2.0%
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 1: 1.8%
    Preserving agent: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.4%
  • Example 25 Eye Contour Gel Formula
  • Inverse latex of Example 2: 2.0%
    Fragrance: 0.06% 
    Sodium pyrrolidinonecarboxylate: 0.2%
    Dow Corning ™ 245 Fluid: 2.0%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 26 Leave-In Care Composition Formula
  • Inverse latex of Example 3: 1.5%
    Fragrance: qs
    Preserving agent: qs
    Dow Corning ™ X2 8360: 5.0%
    Dow Corning ™ Q2 1401: 15.0% 
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 27 Slimming Gel
  • Inverse latex of Example 4: 5%
    Ethanol: 30% 
    Menthol: 0.1%  
    Caffeine: 2.5%  
    Extract of ruscus: 2%
    Extract of ivy: 2%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 1%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 28 Ultra-Natural Tinted Cream-Gel Formula
  • A Water: 10.0% 
    Butylene glycol: 4.0%
    PEG-400: 4.0%
    Pecosil ™ PS100: 1.5%
    NaOH: qs pH = 7
    Titanium dioxide: 2.0%
    Yellow iron oxide: 0.8%
    Red iron oxide: 0.3%
    Black iron oxide: 0.05% 
    B Lanol ™ 99: 4.0%
    Caprylic/capric triglyceride: 4.0%
    Sepifeel ™ One: 1.0%
    Inverse latex of Example 5: 3.0%
    C Water: qs 100%
    Micropearl ™ M305: 2.0%
    Tetrasodium EDTA: 0.05% 
    Cyclomethicone: 4.0%
    D Sepicide ™ HB: 0.5%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.3%
    Fragrance: 0.2%
  • Procedure
  • Prepare the mixture B+C, then add A and then D.
  • Example 29 Care for Greasy Skin Formula
  • A Micropearl ™ M310: 1.0%
    Inverse latex of Example 5: 5.0%
    Octyl isononanoate: 4.0%
    B Water: qs 100%
    C Sepicontrol ™ A5: 4.0%
    Fragrance: 0.1%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
    D Capigel ™ 98: 0.5%
    Water:  10%
  • Example 30 Cream with AHA Formula
  • A Montanov ™ 68: 5.0%
    Lipacide ™ PVB: 1.05% 
    Lanol ™ 99: 10.0%
    B Water: qs 100%
    Gluconic acid: 1.5%
    TEA (triethanolamine): 0.9%
    C Inverse latex of Example 4: 1.5%
    D Fragrance: 0.4%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.2%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.4%
  • Example 31 Non-Greasy Self-Tanning Product for the Face and Body Formula
  • A Lanol ™ 2681: 3.0%
    Inverse latex of Example 3: 2.5%
    B Water: qs 100%
    Dihydroxyacetone: 3.0%
    C Fragrance: 0.2%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.8%
    NaOH (sodium hydroxide): qs pH = 5
  • Example 32 Antisun Milk with Monoï de Tahiti Formula
  • A Monoï de Tahiti:  10%
    Lipacide ™ PVB: 0.5%
    Inverse latex of Example 2: 2.2%
    B Water: qs 100%
    C Fragrance: 0.1%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.1%
    Parsol ™ MCX: 4.0%
  • Example 33 Antisun Care Product for the Face Formula
  • A Cyclomethicone and dimethiconol: 4.0%
    Inverse latex of Example 5: 3.5%
    B Water: qs 100%
    C Fragrance: 0.1%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.21% 
    Parsol ™ MCX: 5.0%
    Titanium mica: 2.0%
    Lactic acid: qs pH = 6.5
  • Example 34 Self-Tanning Emulsion Formula
  • A Lanol ™ 99:  15%
    Montanov ™ 68: 5.0%
    Parsol ™ MCX: 3.0%
    B Water: qs 100%
    Dihydroxyacetone: 5.0%
    Monosodium phosphate: 0.2%
    C Inverse latex of Example 1: 0.5%
    D Fragrance: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.8%
    NaOH: qs pH = 5
  • Example 35 Care Cream
  • Cyclomethicone:  10%
    Inverse latex of Example 2: 0.8%
    Montanov ™ 68: 4.5%
    Preserving agent: 0.65% 
    Lysine: 0.025% 
    EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05% 
    Xanthan gum: 0.2%
    Glycerol:   3%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 36 Care Cream
  • Cyclomethicone:  10%
    Inverse latex of Example 3: 0.8%
    Montanov ™ 68: 4.5%
    Perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether: 0.5%
    Preserving agent: 0.65% 
    Lysine: 0.025% 
    EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05% 
    Pemulen ™ TR1: 0.2%
    Glycerol:   3%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 37 Body Milk Formula
  • A Simulsol ™ 165: 5.0%
    Lanol ™ 1688: 12.0% 
    Lanol ™ 14 M: 2.0%
    Cetyl alcohol: 0.3%
    Schercemol ™ OP:   3%
    B Water: qs 100%
    C Inverse latex of Example 4: 0.35% 
    D Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.5%
    Fragrance: 0.20% 
  • Procedure
  • Emulsify B in A at about 75° C.; add C at about 60° C., followed by D at about 30° C.
  • Example 38 Massage Care Gel Formula
  • A Inverse latex of Example 5: 3.00%
    Water:   30%
    B Sepicide ™ CI: 0.20%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.30%
    Fragrance: 0.05%
    C Dye: qs
    Water: qs 100%
    D Micropearl ™ SQL:  5.0%
    Lanol ™ 1688:   2%
  • Procedure
  • Prepare A; add B, then C and then D.
  • Example 39 Body Milk Formula
  • A Sepiperl ™ N: 3.0%
    Glyceryl triheptonate: 10.0% 
    B Water: qs 100%
    C Inverse latex of Example 4: 1.0%
    D Fragrance: qs
    Preserving agent: qs
  • Procedure
  • Melt A at about 75° C. Emulsify B in A at 75° C. then add C at about 60° C., followed by D.
  • Example 40 Alcohol-Free Soothing Aftershave Balm Formula
  • Mixture of lauryl amino acids:  0.1% to 5%
    Magnesium potassium aspartate: 0.002% to 0.5%
    Lanol ™ 99:   2%
    Sweet almond oil: 0.5%
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 3: 3%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.4%
  • Example 41 Body Milk Formula
  • Sepiperl ™ N: 3.5%
    Lanol ™ 37T: 8.0%
    Solagum ™ L: 0.05% 
    Water: qs 100%
    Benzophenone-3: 2.0%
    Dimethicone 350 cPs: 0.05% 
    Inverse latex of Example 2: 0.8%
    Preserving agent: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.4%
  • Example 42 Alcohol-Free Soothing Aftershave Balm Formula
  • A Lipacide ™ PVB: 1.0%
    Lanol ™ 99: 2.0%
    Sweet almond oil: 0.5%
    B Inverse latex of Example 1: 3.5%
    C Water: qs 100%
    D Fragrance: 0.4%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.4%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
  • Example 43 Refreshing Aftershave Gel Formula
  • A Lipacide ™ PVB: 0.5%
    Lanol ™ 99: 5.0%
    Inverse latex of Example 2: 2.5%
    B Water: qs 100%
    C Micropearl ™ LM: 0.5%
    Fragrance: 0.2%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
  • Example 44 Cream with AHAs Formula
  • A Montanov ™ 68: 5.0%
    Lipacide ™ PVB: 1.05% 
    Lanol ™ 99: 10.0% 
    B Water: qs 100%
    Gluconic acid: 1.5%
    TEA (triethanolamine): 0.9%
    C Inverse latex of Example 3: 1.5%
    D Fragrance: 0.4%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.2%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.4%
  • Example 45 Gloss Gel
  • Inverse latex of Example 4: 1.5% 
    Volatile silicone: 25%
    Monopropylene glycol: 25%
    Demineralized water: 10%
    Glycerol: qs 100%
  • Example 46 Slimming Gel
  • Inverse latex of Example 5: 1.5%  
    Isononyl isononanoate: 2%
    Caffeine: 5%
    Ethanol: 40% 
    Micropearl ™ LM: 2%
    Demineralized water: qs 100%
    Preserving agent, fragrance: qs
  • Example 47 Makeup-Removing Milk
  • Simulsol ™ 165: 4%
    Montanov ™ 202: 1%
    Caprylate/caprate triglyceride: 15% 
    Pecosil ™ DCT: 1%
    Demineralized water: qs
    Capigel ™ 98: 0.5%  
    Inverse latex of Example 4: 1%
    Proteol ™ APL: 2%
    Sodium hydroxide: qs pH = 7
  • Example 48 Restructuring “Rinse-Off” Cream Mask for Stressed and Embrittled Hair Formula
  • Ketrol ™ T: 0.5%
    Pecosil ™ SPP50: 0.75% 
    N-Cocoyl amino acids: 0.70% 
    Butylene glycol: 3.0%
    Inverse latex of Example 1: 3.0%
    Montanov ™ 82: 3.0%
    Jojoba oil: 1.0%
    Lanol ™ P: 6.0%
    Amonyl ™ DM: 1.0%
    Lanol ™ 99: 5.0%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.2%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 49 Antisun Cream
  • Simulsol ™ 165: 3%
    Montanov ™ 202: 2%
    C12-C15 benzoate: 8%
    Pecosil ™ PS 100: 2%
    Dimethicone: 2%
    Cyclomethicone: 5%
    Octyl para-methoxycinnamate: 6%
    Benzophenone-3: 4%
    Titanium oxide: 8%
    Xanthan gum: 0.2%  
    Butylene glycol: 5%
    Demineralized water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 5: 1.5%  
    Preserving agent, fragrance: qs
  • Example 50 Care Gel for Combination Skin
  • Inverse latex of Example 3: 4%
    Plant squalane: 5%
    Dimethicone: 1.5%  
    Sepicontrol ™ A5: 4%
    Xanthan gum: 0.3%  
    Water: qs 100%
    Preserving agent, fragrance: qs
  • Example 51 Hair Lotion Formula
  • Butylene glycol: 3.0%
    Inverse latex of Example 4:   3%
    Simulsol ™ 1293: 3.0%
    Lactic acid: qs pH = 6
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.2%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.3%
    Fragrance: 0.3%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 52 Protective and Relaxing Shampoo Formula
  • Amonyl ™ 675 SB: 5.0%
    28% sodium lauryl ether sulfate: 35.0% 
    Inverse latex of Example 3: 3.0%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.5%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.3%
    Sodium hydroxide: qs pH = 7.2
    Fragrance: 0.3%
    Dye (FDC Blue 1/Yellow 5): qs
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 53 “Leave-on” Protective Product; Anti-Stress Haircare Formula
  • Ketrol ™ T: 0.5%
    Mixture of cocoyl amino acids: 3.0%
    Butylene glycol: 5.0%
    DC 1501: 5.0%
    Composition of Example 1: 4.0%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.5%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.3%
    Fragrance: 0.3%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 54 Cream with Vitamins
  • Simulsol ™ 165: 5%
    Montanov ™ 202: 1%
    Caprylic/capric triglycerides: 20% 
    Vitamin A palmitate: 0.2%  
    Vitamin E acetate: 1%
    Micropearl ™ M305: 1.5%  
    Inverse latex of Example 2: 2%
    Water: qs 100%
    Preserving agent, fragrance: qs
  • Example 55 Antisun Gel Formula
  • Inverse latex of Example 5: 3.00%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.20%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.30%
    Fragrance: 0.10%
    Dye: qs
    Silica: 3.00%
    Water: qs 100%
    Silicone oil:  2.0%
    Benzophenone-3: 5.00%
  • Example 56 Lip-Gloss Formula
  • Inverse latex of Example 5: 1.50%
    Schercemol ™ TISC: 15.00% 
    Vistanol ™ NPGC: 15.00% 
    Candurin Paprika: 0.50%
    Montanox ™ 80: 1.00%
    Antaron ™ V216: 0.90%
    Apricot flavouring: 0.20%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.50%
    C Maltidex ™ H16322: qs 100%
  • Example 57 Pressed Powder for Sunny Climate Formula
  • Inverse latex of Example 3: 2.00%
    Lanol ™ 99: 12.00% 
    Sepiwhite ™ MSH: 1.00%
    Talc: 33.00% 
    Micropearl ™ M310: 3.00%
    Yellow iron oxide: 0.80%
    Red iron oxide: 0.30%
    Black iron oxide: 0.05%
    Mica: qs 100%
  • Example 58 Emulsion for Atopic Skin Formula
  • Arlacel ™ P135: 2.00%
    Inverse latex of Example 1: 1.00%
    Lanol ™ 1688: 14.00% 
    Primol ™ 352: 8.00%
    Glycerol: 5.00%
    Water: qs 100%
    Magnesium sulfate: 0.70%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.30%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.20%
    Micropearl ™ M310: 5.00%
  • Example 59 Soothing Antisun Care (Water-in-Silicone) Formula
  • Inverse latex of Example 4: 2.00%
    DC5225C: 20.00% 
    DC345: 10.00% 
    Sepicalm ™ VG: 3.00%
    Titanium dioxide MT100T: 5.00%
    Zinc oxide Z-Cote HP1: 5.00%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.30%
    Fragrance: 0.05%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.20%
    Glycerol: 5.00%
    Sodium chloride: 2.00%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 60 Multi-Phase Care Formula
  • Inverse latex of Example 5: 3.00%
    C12-15 alkylbenzoate: 25.00% 
    Aquaxyl ™: 3.00%
    Sepitonic ™ M3: 1.00%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.50%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.30%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 61 Self-Tanning Gel
  • Inverse latex of Example 4: 5%
    Ethanol: 30% 
    Dihydroxyacetone
    5%
    Menthol: 0.1%  
    Caffeine: 2.5%  
    Extract of ivy: 2%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 1%
    Water: qs 100%
  • Example 62 Self-Tanning Antisun Milk Formula
  • A Sepiperl ™ N: 3.0%
    Glyceryl triheptonate: 10.0% 
    Lipacide ™ PVB: 0.5%
    Inverse latex of Example 2: 2.2%
    B Water: qs 100%
    Dihydroxyacetone 5.0%
    C Fragrance: 0.1%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.1%
    Parsol ™ MCX: 4.0%
  • Example 63 Self-Tanning Cream with AHAs Formula
  • A Montanov ™ 68: 5.0%
    Lipacide ™ PVB: 1.05% 
    Lanol ™ 99: 10.0% 
    B Water: qs 100%
    Gluconic acid: 1.5%
    dihydroxyacetone 3.0%
    TEA (triethanolamine): 0.9%
    C Inverse latex of Example 3: 1.5%
    D Fragrance: 0.4%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.2%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.4%
  • Example 64 Self-Tanning Cream with AHA for Sensitive Skin Formula
  • Mixture of lauryl amino acids: 0.1% to 5% 
    Magnesium potassium aspartate: 0.002% to 0.5% 
    Lanol ™ 99:   2%
    Montanov ™ 68: 5.0%
    Water: qs 100%
    Inverse latex of Example 4: 1.50% 
    Lactic acid: 1.50% 
    Dihydroxyacetone 3.5%
    Triethylamine: 0.9%
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3%
    Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2%
    Fragrance: 0.4%
  • Example 65 Satin Self-Tanning Moisturizing Emulsion Formula
  • A Simulsol ™ 165: 5.0%  
    Lanol ™ 1688: 8.50%  
    Shea butter: 2%
    Liquid paraffin: 6.5%  
    Lanol ™ 14M: 3%
    Lanol ™ S: 0.6%  
    B Water: 66.2%  
    Dihydroxyacetone 3%
    C Micropearl ™ M 100: 5%
    D Inverse latex of Example 5: 3%
    E Sepicide ™ CI: 0.3%  
    Sepicide ™ HB: 0.5%  
    Aquaxyl ™: 5%
    Fragrance: 0.20%  
    Vitamin E acetate: 0.20%  
    Sodium pyrolidinonecarboxylate: 1%
  • The definitions of the commercial products used in the examples are as follows:
  • Simulsol™ 1293 is hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil, with an ethoxylation index equal to 40, sold by the company SEPPIC
  • Capigel™ 98 is a liquid thickener based on acrylate copolymer sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Ketrol™ is xanthan gum sold by the company Kelco.
  • Lanol™ 99 is isononyl isononanoate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • DC1501 is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol sold by the company Dow Chemical.
  • Montanov™ 82 is an emulsifier based on cetearyl alcohol and cocoylglucoside.
  • Montanov™ 68 (cetearyl glucoside) is a self-emulsifying composition as described in WO 92/06778, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Micropearl™ M 100 is an ultra-fine powder with a very soft feel and a matting action, sold by the company Matsumo.
  • Sepicide™ CI, imidazolidineurea, is a preserving agent sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Pemulen™ TR1 is an acrylic polymer sold by Goodrich.
  • Simulsol™ 165 is self-emulsifying glyceryl stearate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Lanol™ 1688 is an emollient ester with a non-greasy effect sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Lanol™ 14M and Lanol® S are consistency factors sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Sepicide™ HB, which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preserving agent sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Aquaxyl™ is a moisturizer sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Schercemol™ OP is an emollient ester with a non-greasy effect.
  • Lanol™ P is an additive with a stabilizing effect sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Parsol™ MCX is octyl para-methoxycinnamate; sold by the company Givaudan.
  • Sepiperl™ N is a nacreous agent, sold by the company SEPPIC, based on a mixture of alkylpolyglucosides such as those described in WO 95/13863.
  • Micropearl™ SQL is a mixture of microparticles containing squalane, which is released by the action of massaging; it is sold by the company Matsumo.
  • Lanol™ M 99 is isononyl isononanoate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Lanol™ 37T is glyceryl triheptanoate, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Solagum™ L is a carrageenan sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Marcol™ 82 is a liquid paraffin sold by the company Exxon.
  • Lanol™ 84D is dioctyl malate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Parsol NOX™ is a sunscreen sold by the company Givaudan.
  • Eusolex™ 4360 is a sunscreen sold by the company Merck.
  • Dow Corning™ 245 Fluid is cyclomethicone, sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • Lipacide™ PVB is an acylated wheat protein hydrolysate sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Micropearl™ LM is a mixture of squalane, polymethyl methacrylate and menthol, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Sepicontrol™ A5 is a mixture of capryloylglycine, sarcosine and extract of Cinnamon zylanicum, sold by the company SEPPIC, such as those described in international patent application PCT/FR98/01313 filed on 23 Jun. 1998.
  • Lanol™ 2681 is a coconut caprylate/caprate mixture sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Montanov™ 202 is an APG/fatty alcohol composition as described in WO 98/47610, sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Proteol™ APL is a foaming surfactant sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • Schercemol™ TISC is an ester (triisostearyl citrate) sold by the company Scher.
  • Vistanol™ NPGC is an ester (neopentyl glycol dicaprate) sold by the company Sewa Kasei.
  • Antaron™ V216 is a synthetic polymer (PVP/hexadecene copolymer) distributed by the company Univar.
  • C Maltidex™ H16322 is a polyol (maltitol syrup) sold by the company Cerestar.
  • Sepiwhite™ MSH is a depigmenting active agent (undecylenoyl phenylalanine) sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • DC 345 is a cyclomethicone sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • DC 5225C is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconecopolyol sold by the company Dow Corning.
  • Sepicalm™ VG is a soothing active agent (sodium palmitoylproline) sold by the company SEPPIC.
  • MT100VT is a micronized titanium dioxide that has undergone a surface treatment (aluminium hydroxide/stearic acid) distributed by the company Unipex.
  • Z-Cote HP1 is a micronized zinc oxide that has undergone a surface treatment, distributed by Gattefosse.
  • Candurin Paprika is a mixture of potassium aluminium silicate and iron oxide.

Claims (9)

1. A composition comprising:
an oil phase;
an aqueous phase;
at least one water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifying system;
optionally at least one oil-in-water (O/W) emulsifying system; and
from 20% to 70% by mass of a branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte, wherein,
said polyelectrolyte is a copolymer of partially or totally salified 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, and of one or more monomers chosen from monomers containing a weak acid function and/or neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide,
the mole proportion of all of the monomers chosen from the monomers containing a weak acid function and the neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide is greater than 0% and less than or equal to 30%,
the mole ratio between the N,N-dimethylacrylamide and all of the monomers chosen from the monomers containing a weak acid function and the neutral monomers other than N,N-dimethylacrylamide is greater than or equal to 1, and
said composition is an inverse latex.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte is 25% to 50% by mass.
3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising an emulsifying system of oil-in-water (O/W) type.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the polyelectrolyte is selected from the group consisting of:
crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide,
crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the ammonium salt and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide,
crosslinked copolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the potassium salt and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide,
crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, of the potassium salt or of the ammonium salt, of acrylic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide,
crosslinked tetrapolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of acrylic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of acrylamide,
crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of acrylamide
crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of N-isopropylacrylamide,
crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of N-[2-hydroxy-1,1-bis(hydroxymethyl)ethyl]propenamide,
crosslinked tetrapolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of acrylic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate, and
crosslinked terpolymers of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially salified in the form of the sodium salt, the potassium salt or the ammonium salt, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide and of (2-hydroxyethyl)acrylate.
5. A cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition, comprising as thickening and/or emulsifying compound at least one inverse latex as defined in claim 1.
6. A sunscreen composition, comprising at least one sunscreen; and the inverse latex as defined in claim 1.
7. A self-tanning composition, comprising an effective amount of dihydroxyacetone and the inverse latex as defined in claim 1.
8. The cosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceutical composition according to claim 5, further comprising:
dihydroxyacetone; and
a component selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconic acid, at least one sunscreen agent, at least a moisturizing agent, and caffeine.
9. The sunscreen composition according to claim 6, further comprising:
dihydroxyacetone; and
a component selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, gluconic acid, at least one sunscreen agent, at least a moisturizing agent, and caffeine.
US12/233,965 2005-05-25 2008-09-19 Novel inverse latices of copolymers of amps and of n,n-dimethylacrylamide; cosmetic use Abandoned US20090074686A1 (en)

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US11/439,208 US7462363B2 (en) 2005-05-25 2006-05-24 Inverse latices of copolymers of AMPS and of N,N-dimethylacrylamide; cosmetic use
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Cited By (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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US20110110878A1 (en) * 2008-07-21 2011-05-12 Thorsten Knappe Smooth Styling Agents
US20120231058A1 (en) * 2009-11-20 2012-09-13 Amorepacific Corporation Cosmetic Composition Containing Inorganic Powder
WO2018056745A1 (en) * 2016-09-22 2018-03-29 주식회사 엘지생활건강 Water-soluble thickener
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