US2003672A

US2003672A - Sewing machine for stitching multiple seams

Info

Publication number: US2003672A
Application number: US650248A
Authority: US
Inventors: John P Weis
Original assignee: METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE CO
Current assignee: METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE CO; METROPOLITAN SEWING MACHINE Corp
Priority date: 1933-01-05
Filing date: 1933-01-05
Publication date: 1935-06-04
Anticipated expiration: 1952-06-04

Description

June 4, 1935. J. P. WEIS SEWING MACHINE FOR STITCHING MULTIPLE SEAMS Filed Jan. 5, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR. John P W815 A TORNE June 4, 1935. J. P. was

SEWING MACHINE FOR STITCHING MULTIPLE SEAMS Filed Jan. 5, 1933 6 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR ATTO NEYX June 4, 1935. J. P WElS SEWING MACHINE FOR STITCHING MULTIPLE SEAMS Filed Jan. 5, 1933 6 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR. J 7? 7. 14/94'8.

A TTO'RNEgsT r i! 2: i mo :1 i l i ==IEE========= June 4, 1935. J. P. WEIS SEWING MACHINE FOR STITCHING MULTIPLE SEAMS Filed Jan. 5, 1935 6 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR. J 7: n P We 5.

ATTORNE mm X NN 3 N mm June 4, 1935. was 2,003,672

SEWING MACHINE FOR STITCHING KULTIPLE SEAMS Filed Jan. 5, 1933 6 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR; J'o 'F". Weis.

June- 4, 1935.

J. P. WEIS 2,003,672

SEWING MACHINE FOR STITCHING MULTIPLE SEAMS 6 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed Jan. 5, 1935 INVENTQR. Jon 1'; 7? Wets.

BY V

5 ATTOR'7VEY,(.

Patented June 4, 1935 UNITED s TEs PATENT OFFICE SEWING MACHINE FOR STITCHING MULTIPLE SEAMS Application January 5, 1933, Serial No. 650,248

36 Claims.

This invention relates to sewing machines and particularly to an improved machine for and method of making multiple seams, with a single handling of the work by the operator and is an improvement on the machines shown in my Patents 1,809,460, 1,809,461 and 1,809,462 of June 9.

i For the sewing of various articles of manufacture such as shoes, sporting goods articles made from leather, canvas, and other heavy materials, and also wearing apparel requiring a strong flat seam. the present improved machine is particularly adapted, it being especially constructed, for the sewing of taped shoe uppers or quarters.

An object of the invention is the provision of an improved machine for first stitching and trimming the superimposed parts or plies of the article with a single line of stitches, then opening and flattening the seam and stitching to the so flattened seam a reinforcing tape by parallel lines of stitches all with one handling of the work by the operator.

A further object of the invention is the provision of a plurality of stitching and feeding mechanisms and a trimming mechanism so combined that a multiple seam may be produced with a single handling of the work by the operator.

A further object of the invention is the provision of mechanisms for feeding and guiding 30 several plies of work to sewing mechanisms arranged in tandem relation but at an angle one to another to facilitate the stitching of curved or circular seams such as the heel seams of shoes and similar articles.

A further object of the invention is the provision of stitching, trimming and feeding instrumentalities and co-related mechanisms so located and combined that several superposed plies of material may be first stitched and trimmed 40 with uniform margins of seams preparatory to receiving a covering tape over the seam when it has been flattened, simultaneously with the stitching thereof, and then feeding, and guiding the taped seam in a direction inclined to and at an angle in a plane above the first or initial seam I to facilitate the forming of such seams in curved or circular formation such as the heel seams of shoes.

In the operation of the machine two pieces of material are first stitched together to form the seam C and simultaneously therewith the edges are trimmed as at D to make an even seam, and then the edges are spread apart in opposite directions to receive the subsequent stitching J which will pass through the materials and through a reinforcing tape that covers the trimmed edges of the seam, there thus being three lines of stitches in the completed seam; one line of stitching C joining the pieces together and. a line of stitches J on each side of the seam stitch- 5 ing the tape over the trimmed edge.

In the drawings accompanying and forming a part of this specification- Fig. 1 is a front view of my improved machine;

Fig. 2 is a right hand end view of the machine 10 Fig. 3 is a left hand end view of the machine;

Fig. 4 is a top plan view;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged detail View of the motor and clutch mechanismfor driving the machine;

Fig. 6 is a detail view illustrating the manner in which the work passes through the stitching mechanisms, from the first stitching and trimming instrumentalities to the seam flattening and parallel stitching instrumentalities; and

Figs. 7 to 15 inclusive show different steps in 20 i the sequence of seam formation and illustrate how the seams are formed, and also illustrate in part the heel seams of leather shoes.

Similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the several views. Before explaining in detail the present improvement and mode of operation thereof, I desire to have it understood that the invention is not limited to the details of construction and arrangement of parts which are illustrated in the accompanying drawings since the invention is capable of other embodiments, and that the phraseology which I employ is for the purpose of description and not of limitation.

For the mounting of the sewing mechanisms an individual power table is used, such arrangement being found convenient for factory equipment employing conveyor systems or other improved methods of handling work to and from the machines, since the individual units may be quickly shifted about without loss of time. It also offers greater flexibility to reorganization of departments where they are used in accordance with the kind and character of work they are to be used for. 1

The work table is provided with floor rails l connecting the end legs 2 which are braced by members 3 that connect at 4 to the table top 5. The motor support rails 6 carry the motor base 1 on which an electric motor 9 is supported by a base 8. The motor has leads Ill .running from the source of supply, a common switch at l I, the wires in being connected to the motor as at l2 and also connected in series to an automatic switch 13 (see Fig. l) to be described more in detail hereinafter.

The motor 9 (see Fig. 5) has secured to its shaft a flywheel l4 provided with a cone shaped surface |5 to form one member of a clutch. The motor base I has secured to it as at "5, a guard housing surrounding the flywheel and terminates in a hub H to support a'shaft I8 that is clamped therein as shown. This shaft has secured to it by a hub IS a supporting bracket or member 20, circular in formation, having an annular groove carrying a friction leather 2|. This bracket has projecting therefrom two guide pins 22 one above and one below the central shaft. Surrounding the guide pins 22 are helical springs 23, one end of each spring resting against the bracket 20 while the other end exerts pressure against the wall of a recess 24, in a sliding member 25. This member 25 is provided with a cylindrical bearing 26 having a sliding fit in the bracket 20 and is prevented from turning therein by the pins22, The internal bore of the bearing 26 has two sets of spaced annular ball bearings 21 mounted in a suitable mannerso that a clutch wheel 28 will freely rotate therein without friction. This clutch wheel carries a friction leather 29 in an annular groove acting against the inclined face l5 of the flywheel M. The springs 23 tend to keep these surfaces separated and force the inclined edge 30 of the wheel 28 in contact with the friction leather 2|, which thus acts as a brake to quickly stop the rotary motion of this part when and as desired. The flywheel I4 is in constant motion being driven by the motor at all times when the motor is running and by a slight pressure against the spring 23 the wheel 28 is carried out of contact with the brake 2| and brought into contact through its friction leather 29 with the surface l5 of the flywheel l4 and when so coupled together the wheels I4 and 28 rotate together. I

The operation of these parts is controlled by a foot treadle 3| pivotally supported on the rail I of the table. This treadle is connected by a rod or chain 32 to a lever 33 which is pivotally supported at 34 to a projecting arm 35 of the bracket 20. This lever 33 has a pair of arms 36 one of which lies against each side of the sliding member 25 and is connected thereto by pins 31 operating through slots in these arms. By this means, the clutch members are engaged for starting and stopping the machine.

Connected to the wheel 28 in a suitable manner is a belt wheel 38 which is also provided with an annular angular face 39 against which may be brought to bear friction leather 40 carried in an annular groove 4| of a second belt wheel 42. This belt wheel operates freely and independently of the wheel 38. It is mounted to rotate and slide on a sleeve bearing 43. The hub of this wheel has an annular groove 44 in which operates a ring 45 to which is pivotally secured by screws 46 a lever 41, the screws reaching through the two arms of the lever 41 which in turn is pivoted at 48 to a bracket 49 secured to the motor base 1 as at 50.

The lever 41 is in the, form of a bell crank hav ing another arm 5| connected by a chain 52 to a foot treadle 53. This foot treadle is hinged as at 54 to a hinge piece 55 secured to the rail of the table.

Connected with and supported by the sleeve bearing 43 is a tubular member 56 carrying a compression spring 51 surrounding the outside thereof. The end of this member is provided with a suitable collar and adjusting nuts 58 to regulate pressure of the spring 51 which gives pressure against the hub of the wheel 42 so as to keep it in engagement with the wheel 38 to in sure that the two rotate together, except when control of the foot treadle 3| in the ordinary way by the operator, but when it is desired to operate one machine without operating the other pres sure is brought to bear on both treadles, one foot of the operator manipulating treadle 3| while'the other foot operating treadle 53. convenient arrangenwxt of mechanism, proper control of the sewing machines is established.

From the foregoing, it will be seen that by means of the switch I! (Fig. 1) the motor is Through this started and then, by the manipulation of the treadle 3|, the motor clutch is operated to connect the sewing machines with the motor and thus drive the machines from the motor. When the operator releases the treadle 3|, the machines are stopped although the motor can continue to run until the switch is manipulated so that both the starting and stopping of the machines and the speed thereof are always under the control of the operator through the manipulation of the treadle 3| since by the proper manipulation of this treadle he can permit the clutch to slip and thereby control the speed of the sewing machines from minimum to maximum in the same way that an automobile clutch is manipulated. Further, by the manipulation of the foot operated treadle 53, the operator can also disconnect one sewing machine from the other and permit one machine to operate while the other is idle while, by means of the automatic switch control 3, the electric energy will be cut off and the motor stopped on the exhaust of the tape supply.

Thus, the operator has the operation of the machines under his complete control at all times both as to the starting and stopping of the machines as well as the speed thereof, this being essential in the machine shown and described herein where short pieces of work are handled such as the heel seams of shoes, requiring the starting and stopping of the machine approximately 10,000 times a day, and in which the speed ranges from a period of rest to approximately 2500 R. P. M., and with which the tape supply electrical control must not interfere at any time.

The sewing and trimming machines mounted on the table top 5 comprise a base 60 and top arm 6| having a head 62 in which the needle bar of the stitching mechanism operates in the usual way to co-operate with a thread carrying looper that operates in the base of the machine. This is the well known Metropolitan rotary top and bottom shaft machine which is provided with a top feeding mechanism, the drive of which is obtained from the rear end of the shaft 63, through the levers 64 connected with the top feed 85. For trimming the edge of the work, I provide a vertical reciprocating knife 88 carried by a slide member 81 guided in a bracket slideway 88. This bracket 68 is supported by a bearing member 69 carrying a rock shaft 10 secured to an operating arm II actuated by an inclined shaft the work control guide I09. An additional sup- 12 upon which is a sliding member I3 pivotally connected at I4 to the needle bar 15.

The needle bar is operated'up and down by a pitman connection 16 connected at 11 to the needle bar driving crank 18 which is rotated by the top shaft.

The lifting mechanism for the top. feedis also carried by and operated from the crank pin 11 in a well known manner.

A detailed description of this improved trimming mechanism formsthe subject matter of a separate application Serial No. 640,933 filed No-- vember 3, 1932. The bottom feeding mechanism is of well known construction and is generally indicated by I9 and the feed dog by 80.

The thread carrying looper 8I co-operates with a thread carrying needle 82 in the formation of United States standard stitch type 40I.

This machine is driven by a V belt 83 operated from the wheel 42 of the motor drive. This belt drives .the combined hand and belt wheel 84 carried by the bottom shaft of the sewing machine. Suitable means are provided for the thread control for the looper as well as the needle thread.

On the table top 5 suitably located with respect to the first machine is a pair of angle brackets 86 (see Fig. 3). These brackets form a support for the machine base 81 of the second sewing machine for making two or more parallel rows of stitches. This machine briefly, comprises a vertical arm 88, an overhanging arm 89 and head 90, in which operate the usual needle and presser bars. This is also a Metropolitan rotary top and bottom shaftmachine and has a bottom feeding mechanism generally indicated by 9I for operating a four motion feed 92 (see Fig. 3).

Operating in the base are thread carrying loopers 93 co-acting with thread carrying needles 94 operated by the needle bar 95 in the usual way. The head 90 also has a presser bar 96 carrying presser foot 91 for feeding the flattened seams. This machine has a hand wheel 98 driven by a V belt 99 operated from the belt wheel 38 ofthe motor drive. The top shaft of this machine is provided with a hand wheel I for conveniently turning the machine by hand. On the top of the arm is located a thread control mechanism IOI (see Figs. 2 and 4) which is the subject of a separate application in the name of A. H. Weis, Serial No. 552,114 filed July 31, 1931 for Automatic thread clamps. From this thread control mechanism, the threads pass through or over the oil receptacle I02. As they pass this receptacle they pick up suflicient oil or other lubricant such as liquid soap, to properly assist in setting a tight stitch with a minimum of tension on the threads and the work. Oiling of the threads is of special advantage in stitching patent leather and similar materials and by lubricating the threads with liquid soap or similar materials, it offers a decided advantage in the stitching of rubber or rubberized material.

To facilitate the feeding and stitching of patent leathers, I provide an oil reservoir I03 (see Figs. 3 and 4) carried by a bracket I04 attached to the top arm 89 of the rear machine and from which lubricant passes through a tube I05 extending down to the front of the presser foot at I06 to cause the lubricant to be placed along the seam where it passes under the presser foot 91. Common means is provided to regulate the flow of the oil or lubricant in accordance with the requirements.

Attached to the head 90 by screws I91 (see Fig. 3) is a bracket plate I08 forming a support for to the needle and presser bar bearings being ad- 1 justable up and down thereon. The work control guide I09 extends forwardly from the head 90 in a vertical plane and at II2 (see Fig. 4) it is given a lateral left hand twist so that its project'- ing end I I3 will be in a position slightly in advance of the stitching mechanism of the first machine (see Figs. 3 and 4). The forward tip end I I4 of this guide I09 is adjusted with respect to the top surface II5 of the cloth plate carried by the first machine so as to leave a space thereunder for the free passage of one ply of the work. The adjustments provided permit shifting of this part to accommodate the work of different thicknesses.

Co-operating with the work control guide I09 are two vertically spaced guides H6 and III (see Fig. 4). The guide member I I6 is adjustably attached and supported as at II8 to the cloth plate II9 (see Figs. 4 and 6) while the guide member II! is also adjustably attached and supported at I (see Fig. 6) to the cloth plate II9.

Now viewing Figs. 3 and 6, it will be noted that the work receiving ends I2I of these guide memhers I I1 and I I8 are located close to the back edge of the cloth plate II5 of the first machine, their position and location providing parallelly inclined edges I22 which terminate in curved edges I23 ending close to the front of the presser foot of the second machine-and terminating in pointed portions I24. These portions are equally spaced and straddle a fin or keel I25carried by the presser foot. This fin guides and assists in opening as well as flattening the seam as the work receives the parallel lines of stitches. A lower portion of the work control gu'de I09 (see Fig. 3) projects down in between the members H6 and I H as indicated at I26. This edge has a rounded portion as at I2I which terminates very close to the fin or keel I25 of the presser foot.

In the operation of the machine, the work A and B (see Figs. 6 and 7) is placed on the cloth plate H5 and is fed toward the needle 82 with the end H4 of the work control guide separating the pieces A and B as they pass thereover. Needle 82 effects the stitching C whle the knife 66 trims the edge of the work D and the surplus curls away as indicated by E. To prevent the trimmed off portions interfering with the handling of the work a suitably shaped deflector I28 (see Fig. 6) is provided.

- Several plies of work are stitched, one after another in this manner until they reach the second mach'ne, although under some operating conditions, some assistance is necessary, and therefore it is preferable to place in stitching position underneath the stitching instrumentalities of the front and rear machine, astrip of any material in order to start the process of stitching commercial articles so as to carry the chain of stitches from the first to the second machine.

In Fig. 6 I have illustrated the process of stitching portions of shoes and as these portions pass the stitching position to receive the stitches C, the work is carred in the direction of the arrow to the position indicated by F, where the top ply A has been lifted upward from the bottom ply B to the opposite side of the vertical guide control I09. At this position it will be seen that the stitching C is now below the work and underneath the guide c0ntro1 I09. The work advances to the position indicated at G where the seam is about to enter between the parallel guide members H6 and III. In this position the work A and B assumes a curved form where each ply is bent up and then over the upper edges of the guides and downward with the free ends resting on the cloth plate I IS. The work advances as indicated at H and passes between the feed and presser foot of the rear machine. As it feeds under the foot, the seam C is spread out and flattened as indicated at I and in this position it is stitched with either two or more parallel rows of stitches J. These parallel rows of stitches pass through the article and secure thereto the tape K which may either be of fabric, leather, or rubber, according to the requirements. A convenient way of conducting this tape to the stitching position is illustrated in Fig. 1 in which a bracket I29 is secured to the table and supports a roll I30 of tape. This tape passes from the roll to an electrically controlled cut oil switch I3 (see Figs. 1 and 3) passing between two members thereof, wired in series with the motor 9 so that the moment the rear end of the tape passes between these members the electric energy will be cut off automatically. The members I32 and I33 between which the tape passes are constructed in the form of a tension I3I having adjusting means I34-A to regulate the tension.

Projecting from the top member I33 is a post I34-,-A to which is attached a collar I35 carrying an arm I36 to which is attached a link I31, the bottom end of which is connected to an arm I38 of the switch I3. This switch is so designed as to trip and cut off the source of electrical energy when the rear end of the tape K passes from between the switch members so as to stop the motor and prevent further operation of the machine until a new supply of tape isin operative position.

This automatic switch provides absolute control and insures that the articles will always have tape stitched over the seam where it is required. This is of great importance in the stitching of shoes for when the tape is stitched on the b( btom of the work it is diflicult for the operator to see it at all times, and this overcomes the possibility of having work go through without the tape being stitched over the seam, especially as it is impractical to again pass the work through the machine to apply the tape in a second operation for wherever such omission occurs the work would be damaged by a second stitching operation of applying the tape. For these reasons, it will be readily understood that the automatic switch under the control of the tape is of considerable importance.

While I have shown and described one form of an automatic switch it is to be understood that the well known electric eye could be used for the same purpose, and while I have described the switch as under the control of the tape, it is to be understood that similar control can be used in connection with the running of the threads to the machine, so that the machine will be stopped and prevented from further opera- I tion in the event of breakage of the thread or Fig. 7 illustrates the heel seam of a shoe and shows the first stitching C and the margin of the work trimmed therefrom and the work control guide II4 separating the stitched portions. In Fig. 8 the portions of the work A and B represent the position of the article having passed as indicated'by F in Fig. 6. In Fig. 9 the work is illustrated'as having passed to the position at G, while Fig. 10 represents the work as having passed slightly beyond the position indicated by H in Fig. 6 and Figs. 10, 11 also represent the work as having passed beyond the position I of Fig. 6 where the tape K is stitched in place with the parallel rows of stitches J. Fig. 12 is an end view of the seam structure and illustrates the manner in which the tape is wrapped around the seam and held in place with four rows of parallel stitches J. Fig. 13 illustrates the manner in which the tape may be cut off close to the articles by a cutter L or any mechanism adapted for that purpose. Fig. 14 shows the curvature of the heel seam with the concave occurring on the right side of the work while Fig. 15 shows a curved heel seam with the convex curve showing on the right side of the work.

In the stitching of low shoes made of leather and similar materials, the form fitting heel seam requires a pronounced curve to snugly fit the heel of the wearer and prevent the shoe from slipping up and down. These curved seams cannot be flattened out in a straight line and because of this, difiiculty is experienced in stitching the work under ordinary conditions. It is found in practice that the work must be stitched in curved form since it cannot be straightened out and this is the reason for mounting the parallel stitching or rear machine at an angle as shown of about 45 degrees relative to the first stitching mechanism so that as the work passes from the first stitching machine where it lies flat, it will gradually assume a vertical position where the curvature of the work will reed in to the second stitching position so that the curve is in position to where it can most easily be spread out, flattened and stitched without distortion. The flattening of the seam as distinguished from the flattening of the work at the point of stitch- 7 ing permits the work to feed in a natural curve past the parallel stitcher, one piece after another in progressive fashion up the inclined cloth plate H9 in the direction of the arrows shown in Fig. 3. To prevent damage to the work by contact with any of the machines mechanism, a box is built around the machines as indicated at I4I Figs. 3 and 6 covering the rear 01' the machine. This box extends as indicated at I42 and has an inclined plane and a horizontal portion I43 in parallel relation with the cloth plate II5. It also extends around in front thereof at I44. See Fig. 3 and 6.

While I have shown and described a tape stitched to the bottom of the work, it is to be understood that some kinds of work require a tape on top as well as on the bottom of the seam. Sometimes it is necessary to stitch a fabric-tape on the bottom of the work and a leather or rubber tape strip on the top of the work. The equipment shown and described is capable of doing this by the mere addition of another tape guide or by the shifting of the one herein shown.

It is also understood that the method may be reversed so that the tape may be fed in from the top underneath the presser foot. Doing the work in this manner a reversal of the guides and work controls shown and described is all that is necessaw for it is just as easy and simple to flop the work up and under as it is to flop it over from above. That is to say in practice, the bottom ply can be lifted to reverse its position so that the seam will be produced with the covering tape on top and the wrong side of the work facing above instead of below as illustrated in the drawings.

Various kinds of stitching may also be used to suit the different characters of work. In the present improvement I have shown means for making a trimmed seam, leaving no margins to be flared out and flattened as in my patents hereinbefore mentioned. Hence there is no means provided for opening the seam on the bottom as well as on the top in this case because the requirements do not call for them, the sole object being to provide a narrow fiat leak proof seam, durable enough to stand the wear and tear for leather shoes and the like. A

A close examination of the work produced on this improved machine shows that the first stitching on the completed seam lies substantially at right angles to the second or parallel stitching. That is to say, the stitches C when viewing the work shown in Figs. 9 to 15 lie in a horizontal direction through the two thicknesses of the work. Then as the seam is flattened out to its greatest extent, the stitches J are passed vertically through the work at right angles to the first stitching C so that there is a tendency for the stitches C to slightly show on the right side of the work as indicated in the several views.

From the foregoing it will be seen that the two machines are located at an angle one to the other, the result of which is that during the stitching of the superposed plies by the first sewing mechanism, it is, of course, stitched in a curvilinear path to give the curved form to the heel seam and then, when the plies are separated by reversing one of them, this seam is carried at right angles to its original position or in a vertical position so that the second sewing mechanism receives and maintains the same in this vertical curved position. Thus, in the machine shown, the two plies are stitched by the first sewing mechanism in a horizontal plane and then the seam is turned into a right angle position so that the seam will pass through the rear sewing mechanism in a vertical plane, so that after the first stitching has taken place to form the curved seam, the turning of this curved seam into a vertical position results in the leading end of the seam being higher than the middle thereof, and consequently it is essential that the rear machine be located at an angle above the first machine so as to receive the leading end of the work which, as stated, is

higher because of the curvature of the seam than the front edge thereof.

This same result could be obtained in some forms of work by having the rear machine lower than the front one or by having the two machines inclined to each other but, in any event, one machine is located at an angle to the other.

It will also be noted by reference to Fig. 4 that the two machines are located offset to each other, one sewing machine being located farther to the left than the other. This is important because during the stitching of the superposed plies by the first sewing mechanism, the plies are fed so as to give a curved form to the line of stitching and, consequently, a curve to the heel seam and this, therefore, throws the forward or leading end of the work to the left. In other words, the work must swing around so that the seam will be stitched in a uniform manner with the curved edges of the work. Consequently, it is essential that the rear mechanism be located in the manner stated so as to receive the work in the position to which it has been swung. If the two sewing mechanisms were not located offset, the result would be that, when the curved seam was formed during the first stitching of the superposed plies, the leading end of the seam would be to the left of the second machine and not in line with the sewing mechanism thereof but, by the offsetting of the two machines, on the finishing of the seam by the first stitching mechanism, the rear or leading end of the seam is in line with the second sewing mechanism when shifted into vertical position, during the reversal of one of the plies, so that the parallel lines of stitches can be stitched to the curved seam without further manipulation of the work to replace it in line with the inclined sewing mechanism.

It is to be understood that by describing in detail herein any particular form, structure or arrangement, it is not intended to limit the invention beyond the terms of the several claims or the requirements of the prior art.

Havingthus explained the nature of my said invention and described a vway of constructing and using the same, although without attempting to set forth all of the forms in which it may be made, or all of the modes of its use, I claim:

1. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the'combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for then feeding the spread-apart plies at an angle to the first direction of feed, and means for stitching the same margins with parallel rows of stitches.

2. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches in a curvil near path, means for trimming the curved edges of the seam, means'for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for then feeding the spread-apart plies, and means for so feeding the seam as to maintain the curved form thereof and'stitching the seam margins with another row of stitches.

3. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with-a line of stitches in a curvilinear path, trimming means for trimming the curved edges of the seam, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for then feeding the spread-apart plies, means for supplying a tape to the stitched seam, and means for so feeding the seam as to maintain the curved form thereof and stitching the tape over the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

. 4. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for trimming the edges of the stitched seam, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for then feeding the spread-apart plies at an angle to the first direction of feed, and means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

5. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for then feeding the spread-apart plies at an angle to the first direction of feed, means forsupplying a tape to the stitched seam, and means for stitching the tape to the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

6. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches,- means for trimming the edges of the stitched seam, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for then feeding the spread-apart plies at an angle to the first direction of feed, means for supplying a tape to the stitched seam, and means for stitching the tape to the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

7. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a sewing mechanism for stitching and feeding superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, and sewing mechanism for then stitching and feeding the spread-apart plies with parallel rows of stitches, said sewing mechanisms being located one at right angles to a horizontal plane and the other oblique to said horizontal plane.

8. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a sewing mechanism for stitching and feeding superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, sewing mechanism for then stitching and feeding the spreadapart plies with parallel rows of stitches, said sewing mechanisms being located at an angle one to the other, and means for supplying a tape to the seam margins to be stitched thereto by the parallel rows of stitches.

9. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means forstitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches to give a curved form, means for turning the seam at right angles and into vertical position, means for then feeding the seam at an angle to its initial direction of feed, and means for stitching the curved seam margin with a row of stitches.

10. In a machine for sewing multiple seams. the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches to give a curved form, means for turning the seam at right angles and into a vertical position, means for then feeding the seam at an angle to its initial direction of feed, means for stitching the curved seam margin with a row of stitches, and means for supplying tape to the curved seam margin to be stitched thereto by a row of stitches.

11. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches to give it a curved form, means forthen turning the seam at right angles and into vertical position, means for then feeding the seam at an angle to its initial direction'of feed, means for stitching the curved seam margin with a row of stitches, means for supplying tape to the curved seam margin to be stitched thereto by the row of stitches, and means for trimming the edges of the stitched seam during the first stitching thereof.

12. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of a pair of heads, each having stitching and feeding mechanisms, and located, one to the left of the other, whereby they are offset to each other in a horizontal plane, one effective for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches in a curved form and the other located to maintain the curved form of the seam and stitch the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

13. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consists in stitching two superposed plies of material in a curvilinear path, then separating the plies of material and reversing one of them and turning the seam at an angle and into a vertical position and then feeding the separated plies of material and maintaining the curved form of the seam and simultaneously stitching the curved seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

14. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consists in stitching two superposed plies of material in a curvilinear path, then separating the plies of material and reversing one of them and turning the seam at an angle and into vertical position and then feeding the separated plies of material and maintaining the curved form of the seam and simultaneously g stitching the curved seam with parallel rows of stitches, and simultaneously feeding a tape to be stitched to the curved seam margins.

15. The method of stitching articles with multiple seams which consists in stitching two superposed plies of material, then trimming the stitched edges of the seam, then separating the plies of material and reversing one of them, and then feeding the separated plies of material at an angle to the initial direction of feed and simultaneously stitching the curved seam margins with parallel rows of stitches.

16. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of mechanism for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for feeding the spread-apart plies, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, and driving mechanism for the two sewing mechanisms stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, the said two sewing means being operative in sequence, a motor controlled mechanism for driving said sewing mechanisms and including a pair of clutch formed driving wheels having the same axis, one for each sewing mechanism, means for connecting and disconnecting said driving wheels, and clutch formed means for connecting and disconnecting both of said wheels with the motor, and means for controlling said last clutch mechanism.

18. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for separating the plies and reversing one of them and comprising a separating guide member and a pair of vertically disposed guide members one at each side of such separating guide member and effective to lift both plies of material, and means for feeding the spread-apart plies and stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches. v

19. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for separating the plies and reversing one of them and comprising a separating guide member and a pair of vertically disposed guide members one at each side of such separating guide member and effective to lift both plies of material, means for feeding the spread-apart plies and stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, and a fin located in position to guide and assist in the opening and flattening of the seam during the stitching of the parallel rows of stitches.

20. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for trimming the stitched seam margins, means for separating the trimmed edges of the work, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for feeding the spread-apart plies at an angle to the first feeding thereof, means for supplying a tape to the seam, means for stitching the tape to the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, driving means for the several feeding and stitching means and comprising a motor driven mechanism including a pair of clutch formed driving wheels connected one with each stitching mechanism, means for connecting and separating the driving wheels, and clutch mechanism between the driving wheels and motor for connecting and separating both of said driving wheels from the motor, and means for controlling said last clutch mechanism.

21. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination ofmeans for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, said stitching mechanisms being located one at right angles to a horizontal plane and the other oblique to said horizontal plane, driving means for the stitching means, supply means for the stitching means, and means thrown into operation on the exhaust of the supply means for stopping the driving means.

22. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, said stitching mechanisms being located one at right angles to a horizontal plane and the other oblique to said horizontal plane, driving means for the stitching means, supply means for the second stitching means, and means thrown into operation on the exhaust of the supply means for stopping the driving means.

23. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for stitchingthe seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, said stitching mechanisms being located one at right angles to a horizontal plane and the other oblique to said horizontal plane, driving means for the stitching means, tape supply means for the stitching means, and means thrown into operation on the exhaust of the tape supply means for stopping the driving means.

24. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the'combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with aline of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, said stitching mechanisms being located one at right'angles to a horizontal plane and the other oblique to said horizontal plane, electrically operated means for driving the stitching means, supply means for the stitching means, and a cut-off switch thrown into operation on the exhaust of the supply means for cutting off the current and stopping the drivmg means.

25. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, said stitching mechanisms being located one at right angles to a horizontal plane and the other oblique to said horizontal plane, electrically operated means for driving the stitching means, supply means for the stitching means, and a cut-off switch thrown into operation on the exhaust of the supply means to the second stitching means forcutting off the current and stopping the driving ,means.

26. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, said stitching mechanisms being located one at right angles to a horizontal plane and the other oblique to said horizontal plane, electrically operated means for driving the stitching means, tape supply means for the stitching means, and a cut-off switch thrown into operation on the exhaust cf the tape supply means for cutting off the current and stopping the driving means.

27. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the plies and reversing one of them, means for then feeding the spread-apart plies at an angle to the first direction of feed, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, means for driving the stitching means, means for supplying a tape to the stitched seam, and means thrown into operation on the exhaust of the tape stitches, means for then separating the plies and a reversing one of them, means for then feeding the spread-apart plies at an angle to the first direction of feed, means for stitching the seam margins with parallel rows of stitches, electrically operated means for driving the stitching means, tape supply means for the second stitching means, and means thrown into operation on the exhaust of the tape supply means for cutting off the current and stopping the driving means.

29. In a machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for feeding and stitching superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then sewing the previously formed seam with a row of stitches, said stitching mechanisms being located one at right angles to a horizontal plane and the other oblique to said horizontal plane, means for supplying a tape to the second stitching means, electrically operated means for driving the stitching means, and means thrown into operation on the exhaust the driving means with the motor, the manipula-,

tion of the clutch permitting the speed of the driving means to be varied, supply means for the sewing mechanism, and electrically operative means controlled by the supply means and operative on the exhaust of the supply to cut oil.

the operation of the motor, the varying speed of the driving means being ineffective on the electrically operative means.

31. In a sewing machine, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms operative in sequence, an electrical motor, driving means connected therewith and including clutch mechanism for operating the sewing mechanisms, a switch for controlling the operation of the motor, means under the control of the operator for manipulating the clutch thereby to connect the driving means with the motor, the manipulation of the clutch permitting the speed of the driving means to be varied, means under the control of the operator for controlling the operation of one sewing mechanism independently of the other, supply means for the sewing mechanisms, and electrically operative means controlled by the supply means and operative on the exhaust of the supply to'cut oil the operation of the motor, the varying speed of the driving means being ineifective on the electrically operative means.

' 32. In a sewing machine, the combination of a pair of sewing mechanisms operative in sequence, means for driving said sewing mechanisms, means under the control of the operator for starting and stopping the driving mechanism and including means for controlling the speed of the driving means, thereby to vary it, supply means for the sewing mechanisms, and electrically operative means controlled by the supply means and operative on the exhaust of the supply to stop the driving means, the varying speed of the driving means being ineiective on the.electrically operative means.

33. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching and feeding superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for again stitching the seam margins, electrically operated means for driving the stitching and feeding means, means under the control of the operator for starting and stopping the stitching and feeding means and effective to operate them at varying speeds from minimum to maximum, supply means for the stitching means, and electrically operative means operative on the exhaust of the supply means for stopping the driving means, the varying speed of the driving means being ineffective on the electrically operative means.

34. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching and feeding superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for again stitching the seam margins, electrically operated means for driving the stitching and feedingmeans and including clutch mechanism, means under the con trol of the operator for manipulating the clutch thereby to start and stop the stitching and feeding means and eil'ective to operate them at varying speeds from minimum to maximum, supply means for the stitching means, and electrically operative means operative on the exhaust of the supply means for stopping the driving means, the varying speed of the driving means being ineflectiveon the electrically operative means.

35. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching and feeding superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for again stitching the seam margins, electrically operated means for driving the stitching and feeding means, means under the control of the operator for starting and stopping the stitching and feeding means and eifective to operate them at varying speeds from minimum to maximum, supply means for the stitching means, electrically operative means operative on the exhaust of the supply means for stopping the driving means, the varying speed of the driving means being ineffective on the electrically operative means, and means under the control of the operator for controlling the operation of one sewing mechanism independently of the other.

36. In a sewing machine for sewing multiple seams, the combination of means for stitching and feeding superposed plies of material with a line of stitches, means for then separating the seam margins, means for again stitching the seam margins, electrically operated means for driving the stitching and feeding means, means under the control of the operator for starting and stopping the stitching and feeding means, and means under the control of the operator for controlling the operation of one sewing means independently of the other.

JOHN P. WEIS.