US1985311A - Manufacture of shoes - Google Patents

Description

Dec. 25, 1934. A. J. BRAUER ET AL MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Original Filed. Aug. 15, 1952 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 [366- 1934. A. J. BRAUER El AL MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Original Filed Aug. 15, 1932 I 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Dec. 25, 1934 MANUF oTUREoF SHoEs Arthur J.-Brauer and Frederick P. 'Wagner, St. Louis, Mo., assignors toBrauer Bros 1110-, St;

- Louis, Mo., a c'orporati on of Missouri l Original application August 115, 193'2,fs n 1.Nol 1 628,856. Divided and thisapplication June 23, 1934, Serial No. 732,042 1 i 1 4 Claims.

i This 'invention relates generally to the menu;

:facture of shoes and particularly to a method of making shoes, upon lasts which have been profvided with reference points from which the positions .of lthe shoe parts, during manufacture,

mayibe gauged andwhereby the opening length of the shoes is controlled. This application is adivision of our prior oo-pending application Serial No. 623,'85, filed August 15, 1932;

. In, the manufacture; of shoes, as heretofore practiced, an upper .is assembled upon the last with insole. and by use of a lasting machine ,a pulling-over operation is accomplished, it havingheretofore. been the practice that the opera- :tor pull the upper as far as would permit without setting up-severe strainsin the leather of .which the upper is composed. It is well known that different grades of -skins or fabrics from which shoes-are fabricated have different degrees ,of. elasticity and consequently the final position of an upper of one kind of material on-the :last is often considerably different from theibfinal. position of a different. kind ofupper; likewise the final position of a lasted upper with reference to its last hasheretofore varied considerably depending upon'the eye of the opera- :tor. -;Consequently in view of the fact that the extent of the-pulling operation has heretofore been determined entirely by the operator, there M has been considerable variance in the opening :sizes; as well; as the vamp height of shoes of a particularstyle and size Such accuracy as has heretofore been obtainable, particularly with reference tothe opening length of a shoe, has lbeen :made possible through sheer guess work and.had depended, to a large extent upon the skill'iof the operator who performs the pullingover operation. It-is among the objects of the present invention to so gauge the usual shoe making lasts that the guess work is removed from the pulling-over operation and to provide definitemarksbywhich the pulling-over and otherv lasting operations may be gauged so that accuracy offittingand alinement of an upper ona lastis facilitated. 1 Y n I An object of the present invention generallyv stated isjto provide a last-withsuitable instru- .mentalities; whereby the position of an upper may be. gauged thereon. 1 Another object of this invention is to provide aimethod and apparatus for; gauging lasts in accordance with ,the sizes thereof and with reference-to the; d-iiferential between the grading scales ;of lasts and patterna A furthenob ie'cth'of this invention is topros r Y vide a last with definite, gauging marks. the po- I sitionsofQwhichI are arrived at in accordance withf'the eizes, of .the 'las'ts and through a coordination eth c.,cqnventional last and pattern jeradatnn. I 1L Y i A more: ecifi'c object ofthis invention is to provide a lastj ,with' a back height "gauging mark and with-an indicatingmember having thereon a series of marks", the member being positioned with referencetoithe backheight indicator and in acskilled in the. art'when the, following description is ire'adlinconnection ith flthe accompanying drawi s; nwh chf Figure 1 is a: side elevatio'nbf an apparatus suitable for gauging and marking lasts in'aceorjdaneejwith the. present jinvention. 1 t (Figure 2 is'aplan few of a last marked inacco'rdance with 'the,present invention by, the apparatus-shown in Figure 1.

V Figuresis a perspectiveview of an indicating member suitable for and "adapted tobe attached to the last'ofFigure' 2 in accordance with the mark made thereon.

Figure 4 is a perspective view of a last provided withtheindicating member of Figure-3 and having assembled thereon an' upper.

- Figure 5is a perspective view of a'last'having assembled thereon an upper of the oxford type and. illustrating a difierent forrnof indicating 1 member.

Figure 6 is a sectional view taken through the last of Figure 5 and showing the mounting for the indicating member. 1?ig ure-7 is a detailview ,beror'gauging instrument shown inFigures 5 Figure 8 is a'detail view of a. fittingelement forthe instrument of Figure 7.

- Infaccordance ,stated, indications are provided in the back and also alongthecone oflasts whereby the completed uppers may begaugedwith reference to the last a during the piillingoveroperation andbefore the of the indicating memwiththis invention. generally upper is secured in position with reference to the last. The positions of the respective marks at the back and also on the cone of the last are, in accordance with the present invention, determined in accordance with the size of the shoe and by coordination of the last and pattern gradations. By thus coordinating the last and pattern gradations, it is possible to ascertain the correct opening length for a particularstyle of a certain size shoe. By mathematical deductions and by coordinating the scales of last and pattern gradations, the difference in opening length for the next size shoe of that particular style may be readily ascertained.

To more fully illustrate the method of determining the position of the indications on the back and cone parts of the last whereby the upper may 'be gauged, the procedure in gauging lasts for womens shoes adapted to receive a 19/8 heel will be described. Lasts for womens shoes are graded regularly in overall length to each size. This is usually referred to as the stick length and is the distance between the toe andthe most remote part on the curvature of the back, As to height at the back or heel end, these lasts are conventionally graded to each size.

A different scale of gradations is, however, adopted and conventionally followed with reference to patterns for such shoes. Vamp patterns are graded for a whole size. Quarter patterns are graded regularly to the whole size at the back seam.

Since the stick length of lasts vary per whole size, while vamp patterns vary per whole size, and since the difference between the vamp length and the stick length corresponds to the length of. the opening which will exist between the throat of the shoe and the back seam, it is apparent that the opening length varies per whole size the difference between and This differential maybe determined to be per whole size or /48 per half size.

To illustrate .more 1 fully, the proper opening length for a size 4 pump may be, by experiment or in any suitable manner to assure proper fitting, determined to be, for instance, 6 The overall stick length of a size 4 last is, however 9%" so that 3" is left for the vamp length. The height at the back seam is 2". From these basic dimensions, dimensions corresponding for the same style shoes may be readily determined for all other sizes. The following table illustrates a determination of these dimensions for sizes 3, 3 4, 4 and 5:

Size 3 3% 4 4% 5 Openings 5 6 /18 6% 6 1 42 6%; Vamps 2% 2 /15 3 3M0 3% Overall stick length- 8 %4. 8 9% 9%4 9 924 Back height 1 1 3412 2 262 2540 able mark or indicant whereby to gauge the'ba-ck ance with the foregoing description. "Fromthis size (e. g.,

by such members.

mark or indicant, the appropriate opening length may be gauged in order to determine the position for a suitable mark or indicant to be placed on the cone of the last whereby the throat portion of the shoe may be gauged. The appropriate length for the opening for the particular size shoe may be arrived at in accordance with the procedure above described. Having thus arrived at the proper positions for the gauging indicant for a particular size of, for instance pumps, any number of subordinate indicants may then be placed on the last, each at a predetermined distance from the indicant first formed. Such subordinate indicants may be understood to represent points to which uppers for different styles of shoes of the same size should be pulled. For instance, if the first mark is determined with reference to the proper opening length for pumps, it will be understood that the position of the throat line on, for instance straps, will be lower while on the other hand the position of the throat line on, for instance, gores will be somewhat higher. The difference, however, between the proper opening length for a strap and the proper opening length for a pump is, however, the same no matter what size the shoe may be; likewise with other types of shoes; the Vamps being simply a constant distance longer or shorter regardless of size. In accordance with the present invention, therefore, the main or reference mark having been arrived at, a suitable indicating member which may be in the nature of a plate may be affixed to the cone of the last, and have thereon gradations corresponding to the various styles of shoes and designating points by which the uppers of such styles may be gauged during lasting. It will be understood that such plates will be identically the same for every size shoe but the position 'of the plate will vary up and down on the cone of the last in accordance with the size thereof.

The distance gauged from the back height position to locate the throat line may be represented mathematically as follows using for example a. size 5 last (size 4 being the model size) and referring to the above table:

' 5 /48") the sign being plus or minus according as the size of the last is greater or less than the model The point of reference may be established at the measured distance or in accordance therewith, as is the case when a plurality of subordinate indicants are provided as above described, or when the remote point is used. In the latter case a constant K will enter in as follows:

CiKi-SO K being the difference between the proper opening length and the distance (established point of referenceback height) and the sign of K being negative when the point of reference is back or v} the forward terminus of the opening, and positive when in front. The latter expression applies specifically to the embodiment shown in Figures 5 to 8 inclusive, as well as the plate shown in Figure 3.

When all the lasts of a shoe factory have been provided with such indicating members, the positions having been determined in accordance with the procedure above described, it is apparent that :the operatives who perform the pulling-over operations may gauge the extent of this operation All that the operative need know is the particular indication on the member towhich the-uppers-of any lot of shoes are to be pulled. The various indications may be distin guished as by suitable characters or colors and it will be understood that in a lot consisting of but one style of shoes of sizes 2 to 8, the operative will pull the uppers on all shoes, regardless of size, to the same indication on the'lndicating member or plate. The operative need pay no attention to size since the position of the plate was initially determined with reference to the size of the last, and accordingly the plate provides a series of different indications to any one of which a lot of shoes consisting of various sizes may be lasted and whereby the proper-gradation of opening lengths for correspondingxsizes will be obtained with accuracy. .f v Q I Referringnow particularly to the drawings for a detail description of an illustrative embodiment, there is shown in Figure 1 a device suitable ior gauging the lasts in accordance with theprocedure above described. Such a device may comprise a rail 1 having at each end thereof lips 2 by which thesame may be suitably secured to a supporting structure as, for instance, a table 3. At one end of the rail 1 may be provided a depending leg 4 adapted to receive an'L-shaped member 5 in slidable relation. It will be understood that the members 4' and'5 may be maintained in longitudinal alinement by a suitable tongue and grooved construction and a suitable clamping arrangement such, for instance, as a wing nut 6 on a screw '7 projecting through said members may be provided.

At the lower end of the L-shaped member 5 is a seat 8 upon which the heel plate of an ordinary last may be rested during the gauging operation. 011' the lower end of the leg .4 may be provided a suitable instrument 9 adapted to make an indentation in the back part of a last.

On the vertically extending portion of the L- shaped member 5 may be provided a suitable scale 11 for gauging the distance between the seat- 8 and thepoin'ted instrument 9. The indentation made by the pointed instrument 9 for a particular size last will be understood to represent the proper position for the top of the upper at that point. Accordingly, thegraduations of such scale 11 will, in the case of women's shoes as above described, occur at intervals of 3 1 since this is the pattern gradient for eachhalf size, at this point. Such scale 11, it will be understood, will cooperate with a suitable zero indication such as 12 on the stationary leg 4. When the scales are thus arranged, it is apparent that the graduation opposite the zero mark 12 will indicate the distance between seat 8 and the pointed instrumentQ. When it is desired to gauge lasts,the parts may be adjusted in accordance with the appropriate back height for the particular size last which may be, for instance, in the case of a size 4, 2".

Suitably mountedto slide along the rail 1 is a rider 13 having a suitable clamping device as, for instance, a set'screw 14 adapted to engage the surface of the rail 1. Depending from the rider 13 is a leg 15 having at, the lower end thereof a cutting device 16 which may be in the nature of a section of a saw-blade, the cutting portion of to be subdivided into forty-eighths inches, in order that the appropriate length differential of 5/48" per half size may be arrived at and the rider 13 set thereon accordingly.

When it is desired to gauge lasts the appropriate distance for the back height may be set on scale ,11 and the rider :13 may be set at the proper opening length. Inthe case of size 4 womens lasts, the scale 11- will be set at 2" and the rider 13 will be set on the scale-18 at 6 in accordance with the dimensions given in the table on page 8. With the device thus set, a last 17 may be placed in position with the heel plate thereof upon the seat 8, (as indicated in broken lines) and the same forced backwardly against the instrument 9 whereby an indentation is made. -An operator may now 9scillate the toe of the shoe back and forth about point 9 as a center and against the cuttingedge of member 16 as indicated in full linesin Figure 1. In this manner a slight notch clearly shown in Figure 2 at 19 will be formed on the conezofthe last andwill'be spaced at a distance and having been determined in -accordance with theprocedure hereinbefore described.

The graduations of scales 11' and 18 may if desired be indicated by the diifere'nt shoe sizes to which they correspond. In the case of scale 18, however, provision should be made tov accommodate slight changes in-the basic opening length necessitated by different heel heights.

With the apparatus of Figure 1 thus set i'or a particular size last, any number of lasts of that particular size may then be gauged without disturbing the seating.

A suitable pin or other permanent indicator may be driven into indentation 21 which was formed by the instrument 9 and this will be understood to provide a back height indicator for all shoes lasted upon that last regardless of their styles. A suitable'indicating member or plate 22 illustrated in Figure 3 maybe applied to the cone of the last positioned with reference'to notch 19 made therein. For instance, member 22 may be driven into the last in such manner that the zero graduation will coincide with notch 19. The zero graduation will then indicate the throat line position to which certain style uppers, for instance, pumps are to be pulled. I The end of the plate below the zero indication may be understood to represent the throat line position to which the uppers of anotherstyle, for instance, straps are to be pulled. Likewise with the graduations' above in opening lengths for various sizes of shoes is the feature which determines the position of the plate or member 22 with reference to indentation 21. r

In the manufacture of certain styles of shoes wherein the outside upper and lining are stitched or secured to each other flatly around the margin of the opening, the lining is, during the courseof manufacture, permitted to extend upwardly for a substantial distance. above the throat line.

'After the lasting operations are completed, the

I ,9 8 5, 3 I I providing a last and locating a point on the back thereof corresponding to the back height of a shoe to be made thereon, predetermining the opening length of a shoe to be made on the last, locating a point on the forward part of the last at a distance from the back height position corresponding to the predetermined opening length, and making shoes on said last with the throat thereof positioned according to said point located on the forward part of the last.

2. The method of making shoes comprising, providing lasts and placing a positioning mark on the back thereof to determine the back height of shoes made thereon, then locating a point on the forward portions of said last determined by a predetermined opening length measured from said back height mark, and making shoes on said lasts whereby shoes, of the same size will have fixed openings independent of the length of the lasts on which they are made.

3. The method of making shoes comprising, providing a last and locating a point on the back thereof corresponding to the back height of a shoe to be made thereon, predetemining the opening length of a shoe to be made on the last, measuring from the located'back height point a distance corresponding to the predetermined opening length and marking the measured distance on the forward part of the last, and making shoes on said last with the throat thereof positioned according to said point located on the forward part of the last. 1

4. The method of making shoes comprising, providing lasts and locating a point on the backs thereof corresponding to the back height of shoes to be made thereon, predetermining the opening length of a shoe to be made on the lasts in accordancewith the size thereof, locating a reference point on the lasts at constant distance from the throat line position as determined by measuring the predetermined opening length from the back height point, and making shoes on the lasts with with the position of the shoe partsgauged' from said located reference point whereby shoes of the same size will have fixed openings independent of the length of the lasts on which they are made.

ARTHUR J. BRAUER. FREDERICK P. WAGNER.

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