US1978092A - Corset - Google Patents

Description

J. LEONARD Oct. 23, 1934.

CORSET Filed March 27, 1955 3 Sheets-Sheet l Ihwentor (Ittorneg LEONARD Oct. 23, 1934.

CORSET 1935 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed March 27 g e n r. o H a I LILrl lirLm t -ll I 1.2 I. "MRI 1 4 4...

J. LEONARD Oct. 23, 1934.

CORSET Filed March 27, 1953 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 ZSnnentor (Ittorneg Patented Oct. 23, 1934 CORSET Joseph Leonard, Allentown, Pa., assignor to Charis Corporation, New York, N. Y., a corpora tion of New York Application March 27, 1933, Serial N5. 663,044

8 Claims.

This invention relates to foundation garments for women, such as corsets, corset brassieres and the like, and smore particularly to the type of garments disclosed in my prior Patents Numbers 1,488,209, 1,637,313, and 1,655,377.

, One of the principal objects of my present inventionis to provide'a garment with a combination abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer disposed beneatha'nd covered by the front body por- :10; tionofthe garment itself and of such construction that while being attached to the body portion of the garment asa unit, at the same time will allow relative movement between the belt and reducer portions of the combination such as will '5 -compensate for the relative shortening and lengthening of'the front lines of the figure in assuming sitting and standing postures, respectively. i i

Anotherobject is to provide a unitary abdomi- Q-nal belt and diaphragm reducer construction in 'combination with attachment means for connecting the same to the body portion of the garment, such that an elastic continuation of the diaphragm reducer connects the latter to the body portion of the garment and exerts a down- 'ward and a backward pull on the reducer over the front of the figure without however disturbing the adjustment of the belt portion of the construction. i

A further object is to provide a unitary abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer as above set forth in combination with a construction of the body portion of the garment such that control of the garment in the vicinity of and above the waist -.line, and expansion of the garment to accommodate the spread of the figure in seated posture, are provided, while at the same time the separate control of the specific portions of the figure covered by the belt and reducer, respectively, and

accommodation of changes in length of the front portions of the figure due to changes in posture,

areprovided for and maintained.

Another object of the invention isto provide a construction in which the abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer are secured together in permanent relationship to each other at their outer ends,are'adjustable vertically of the garment as a unit, and intermediate their ends are arranged in overlapping relation and adapted for jmovement with respect to each other to accommodate the shortened length of the front lines of the figure in assuming a sitting posture.

"A further object is to provide an abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer construction in which the upper part of the belt and the lower part of the reducer overlap at thefront portion of the junction of the abdominal and diaphragm regions of the figure and are joined together atthe sides substantially in line with the apeX'of the hip, and

co-ordinate in action with the bend of the hip joint by moving the one over the other at their forward central portions, thus shortening the length of the abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer combination to a length to accord with the shortened length of the figure when the latter assumes a sitting posture.

Another object'is to provide a combination abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer which, while being disposed beneath and covered by the front body portion of. the garment itself and being entirely independent therefrom, and while being attached as a unit to the garment, at the same time maintains the positions of the belt and the reducer, respectively, with respect to the particular portions of the figure controlled by them while allowing relative adjustment between the belt and reducer to accommodate the lengthening and shortening of the figure. J

.Another object of the invention is to provide a unitary combination abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer, each of which is made intwo, parts separately connected together, the connec-. tions between the portions of the diaphragm reducer being displaced to the opposite side of the' central line of the figure from the connections between the portions of the abdominal belt.

With the foregoing and other objects in view which will become more apparent as the description proceeds, reference is made to the accompanying drawingsQwhich illustrate one of the 9 embodiments that the invention may take, and in which,- t

Figure 1 represents a view in perspective of garment embodying the invention in position on the figure, the body portion of the garment being in opened condition.

Figure 2 represents a front view of the garment on a larger scale, in opened condition, with parts being partiallyseparated in order to more clearly illustrate the construction.

Figure 3 represents a vertical sectional view, taken through the front portion of the garment illustrating the position assumed by the parts when the garment is on the figure, in standing position. a

Figure 4 represents aside elevational view of the garment from the right hand side.

Figure 5 represents a view similar to Figure 2, with the sections of the abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer disconnected from each other PATENT (OFFICE the flaps 23.

- forward edges of the latter.

and with the parts thrown back to more clearly illustrate the construction.

Figure 6 represents an enlarged fragmentary elevational view, the parts being abnormally separated to further illustrate the construction.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, the garment in general includes a soft fabric outer portion 10 which completely encircles the body, and which is illustrated as a side opening garment, though it will be understood that the garment may be made to open at the front or at the back if desired.

At the sides of the body, the garment is split up to the waist line W-L, and theadjacent edges on each side of the splits are provided with eyelets 14, 14 for side lacing connections 15, 15. The elastic sections 16, 16 which, in the embodiment shown are substantially triangular in shape, overlie the upper portions of the split sides and are set into the sides of the garment at the waist line. From the lower edges of the elastic sections 16 to the upper edge of the garment, the latter is preferably not split at the sides.

The combination abdominal belt and diphragm reducer, indicated generally at A, and which will the abdominal belt portion 0, of the combination A, and through these eyelets pass the side lacing connections 15 which connect the edges of the garment on each side of the splits together, the same lacings thus supporting the combination belt and reducer as connect the split sides of the body portion of the garment adjacent the combination belt and reducer to each other.

Along the lower side portions of the garment, in the thigh region of the figure, are arranged These flaps overlie the lower portions of the sides of the garment,are stitched at their rear edges as at 23 to the sides of the garment, and at their front and lower edges terminate substantially at, the front and lower edges, respectively, of the side portions of the garment. Lacings 22, which are arranged lower down than the lacings 15, and which are separate therefrom, connect the edges of the front body portion of the garment to the flaps 23 along the By reason of this construction, the size and fit of the garment in the region of the thighs is controlled independently of the control and fit of the garment in the region of the abdomen, and this adjustment and control is facilitated by the elastic gore 17 set into'the lower front portion of the garment,

"my prior patents, and hence is not of itself claimed by me herein, but is given in order to illustrate a type of complete garment with which my present invention may be combined and incorporated.

The combination abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer A, is of unitary structure at its ends which terminate in the eyeleted strips 19, 19, and by which it is connected to the lacings 15 which connect the split sides of the garment together, but intermediate its ends, the belt portion 0 is detached from the reducer portion b, the latter, adjacent its lower edge, overlying the upper portion of the belt as at 20. The belt portion completely covers and encloses the abdominal region from the groin line at the sides and lower pelvic region to a point above the umbilicus, thus providing secure and physiologically correct abdominal support with an upward and backward lifting effect. The diaphragm reducer portion completely covers the upper part of the abdominal wall, extending at the center front to a point between the busts and curving downwardly to the eyeleted strips 19, 19 at the sides.

The abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer hold their respective positions on the figure, despite changes in posture of the latter, riding over each other at the central front portion and thus reducing the over-all vertical length of the combination to accord with the shortening of the front lines of the figure when a sitting posture is assumed, and again moving with respect to each other at their overlapping central front portions to resume their original over-all length when a standing posture is assumed. It will be noted that the combination belt and reducer overlap at the central front portion substantially in line with the apex of the hip, and thus readily co-ordinate in action with the bend of the hip joint by moving or folding the one over the other at the central front portion, to compensate for the relative shortening and lengthening of the front lines of the figure in assuming different postures, without exerting any undue pinching or binding action on the figure. By having the ends of the belt and reducer connected together in a unitary structure, this ability of the central portions of the belt and reducer to move with reference to each other to accommodate the lines of the figure, and without causing discomfort to the wearer, is greatly facilitated, as the lengthening and shortening of the figure in assuming different positions takes place at the front central portion of the figure, rather than adjacent the sides thereof.

The upper edge of the abdominal belt preferably terminates somewhat below the waist line so that the figure in bending will not cause any pressure against the belt at the upper and lower edges thereof, or against the boning of the belt, such as would tend to cause the belt or the boning to bend and thus give the figure an objectionable roundness in the abdominal region. By terminating the belt somewhat below the waist line, the belt can conform to the natural lines of the abdomen and without binding effect on the figure of the wearer.

A flexible and elastic continuation of the upper portion of the diaphragm reducer and which connects the reducer to the side portions of the garment at the under arm seams 21 of the latter, is afforded by the diagonal strips 24 of elastic webbing which, at their forward ends are respectively connected to the eyeleted side tabs 25 of the garment through which the lacings 15 extend, and which, at their rear ends are stitched respectively to the under arm seams 26 of the garment. These strips form a flexible continuation of the reducer in its connection to the garment at the sides of the latter, and exert a downward and backward pull on the diaphragm reducer over the .1 shortened length of the abdominal wall, when the latter insure the downward and backward pull of the reducer over substantially the entire region. of the diaphragm, thus affording a complete control for the superfluous flesh in this region, and exerting a gentle pressure suflicient to smooth out any accumulatedfiesh in this region, and preserve the natural'continuity of the diaphragm region with reference to the abdominal region of the figure. l l g The diagonal strips 24 underlie; respectively, the elastic waist gore sections 16 which are inserted the outer body portion of the garment at the waist lineQand thus afford additional control of the garment at and above the waist line, and-providefor theexpansion in the garmerit to accommodate for the spread of the figure inseatedpos'ition. It will also be notedthat the construction of the oombinationbelt and reducer allowingfor the relative movement at the central front portion of the figure operates in conjunction with the diagonal strips 2e and the elastic inserts 16 to provide for the simultaneous spread of the body in the region] of the waist and the the figure assumes sitting position,

Furthermore, by having the belt and reducer thus constructed to change the length of the combination in the central front portion ofthe figure to accord with the change in length of the body line, and by having the reducer joined to the diagonalelastic band comprising the strips 24, and

which in width, is approximately equal to thewidth (prolongated) of the diaphragm reducer at the under arm seams,control of the diaphragm contraction of the band comprising the strips 24 toaccommodate the expansion and contraction of the waist portion of the figure in assuming various postures, will effect thediaphragm reducer portion only, and not the abdominal belt portion, the tension of the latteronceadjusted by the side lacings .15 remaining constant.

It will be understood that the combination belt and reducer is adjustable'vertically, by being laced higher up or lower down with reference to the side portionsof the garment, and thus can be adjusted to the exact height required for complete control of the diaphragm of the individual wearer, and for the enclosure of all of the superfious flesh, and that simultaneous lateral adjustment of the garment and of the combination belt and reducer is provided by the unitary lacings 15,15 at the sides.

The diaphragm reducer and the belt portion of the combination are made of two sections connected together by hooks and eyes as at 27 and 28, respectively, the reducer portion being provided with the hook and eye connection adjacent one edge of the unitary structure, and the belt being provided with the hook and eye connections adjacent the opposite edge. This arrangement prevents any undue bulkiness which would occur if the hook and eye connections of the diaphragm reducer were on the same side of the figure as the connections of the belt section. The reducer and belt are lightly boned as at 29 and 30 respectively, and it will be noted that the boning of the reducer is substantially in staggered relation with reference to the boningof the belt at the overlapping portions of these parts, so as to prevent superimposition of the boning of the two parts as they move relative to each other, and thus pre vent the development of bulkiness which might otherwise occur. I l l In connection with the structure which has been herein above described, it will be noted that modern dictates of fashion demand long straight lines at the front of the figure, the absence of any apparent bulkiness or heaviness in the region of the diaphragm, and the retention of the natural formation of the lines of the upper portion of the torso. In order to accomplish the control of the figure to meet these demands, there has been a tendency on the part of some foundation gar-- ment manufacturers where inner belts have been used, to increase vertically the width of the belts so that the entire region of the diaphragm, as well as the abdomen, would be covered by such belts. This has, however, resulted in the great disadvantage that when the figure assumes a sitting posture and thus becomes shortened in front, the upper portion of the belt has a tendency to ride upwardly, with reference to the figure, and to consequently lift the underlying flesh with it, with a resulting great discomfort to the wearer and unnatural displacement of the bust portions of the torso into unnaturaland uncomfortable positions. By separating the portions of the belt overlying the diaphragm region form the portion overlying the abdomen, while maintaining, however,the ends of these portions in fixed relationship'to each other, I have, while maintaining the vertical height of the belt as a whole, been able to overcome the disadvantages heretofore accruing where the portion of the belt overlying the diaphragm is continuous with that portion overlying the abdomen, and at the same time to allow for an automatic adjustment between the diaphragm' reducer and the belt portion, upon the figure assuming changes in posture, as above pointed out. In accomplishing this, the construction is such that the portions of the combined belt and reducer maintain their positions with respect to the portions of the body controlled by-them and without relative displacement between them and such respective portions of the body, and at the same time relative adjustment between the belt and reducer to accommodate the lengthening and shortening of the figure is pro vided. Thus accurate and individual control of the abdomen and diaphragm regions respectively, is maintained, and at the same .time'comfort to the wearer is afforded. T i

There is further obtained by having the construction of the belt and reducer unitary at the end portions of the latter, while having them separated intermediate their ends, the advantage that when adjusted onthe figure, the tension across the belt portion remains constant with ref erence to the tension across the reducer, by reason of the common line of connection between the belt and the reducer at their ends. Furthermore, by having the reducer and belt made in a unitary structure in the manner set forth, the dimensions of the parts can be absolutely controlled during manufacture so that there is just enough slack in the portion of the reducer which overlies the upper portion of the belt to allow of the ready movement of the reducer with reference to the belt in accommodating the positions of the body without undue friction as between the parts, and

without discomfiture to the wearer, or the development of localized pressure on the portions of the body which underlie the overlapping parts of the belt and reducen'or of unsightlybulges or lines in the body portion of the garment or the outer garments of the wearer.

The foregoing description has been given for clearness of understanding, and no undue limitations should be deduced therefrom, but the appended claims should be construed as broadly as permissible, in view of the prior art.

The term corset is employed in the claims generically as applying generally to foundation garments for women, such as corsets, corset-brassieres, and the like, and not in a limited technical sense.

Having thus described my invention what I claim is:

l. The combination with a corset having a body portion split adjacent the sides below the Waist line, the edges of the split sides being connected together by lacings, of a unitary abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer having their ends connected together in-permanent position, and having the portions intermediate their ends overlapping and disconnected from each other, said unitary structure being connected to the corset by the same side lacings which connect the edges of the corset together.

2. The combination with a corset having a body portion split adjacent the sides below the waist line, the edges of the split sides being connected together by lacings, of a a unitary abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer having their ends connected together in permanent relation and having the portions intermediate their ends overlapping and disconnected from each other, said unitary structure being connected to the corset by the same lacings which connect the edges of the corset together, and diagonally arranged elastic strips forming substantial continuations of the diaphragm reducer and connecting the same to the corset at approximately the waist line of the latter.

3. The combination with a corset having an outer portion which completely encircles the figure, of an inner unitary structure comprising an abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer connected together in permanent relation at their ends and having the portions intermediate their ends overlapping and adapted for relative movement to accommodate the shortening and lengthening lines of the front portion of the figure in assuming different postures, the ends of said unitary structure being adjustably connected to the side portions of said corset.

4. The combination with'a corset having an outer portion which completely encircles the figure, of an inner unitary structure comprising an abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer connected together in permanent relation at their ends and having the portions intermediate their ends overlapping and adapted for relative movement to accommodate the shortening and lengthening lines of the front portion of the figure in assuming different postures, the ends of said unitary structure being adjustably connected to the side portions of said corset, and elastic strips forming substantial continuations of said diaphragm reducer and extending downwardly and backward- 1y from the ends thereof and connected to the corset substantially at the waist line of the latter.

5. The combination with a corset having an outer portion, of an inner unitary structure comprising an abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer arranged in overlapping and movable relationship relative to each other at a position substantially opposite the apex of the hip of the figure, the ends of said belt and reducer being connected together adjacent the sides of the corset in relatively fixed and immovable relationship, means connecting the ends of said unitary structure to the corset, and means resiliently connecting the diaphragm reducer-to the corset and exerting a downward and backward pull upon said diaphragm reducer.

6. The combination with a corset having an outer portion which completely encircles the figure, of an inner unitary structure comprising an abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer having the portions intermediate their ends overlapping and adapted for relative movement to accommodate the shortening and lengthening lines of the front portion of the figure in assuming different postures, and having their ends connected together in substantially fixed relationship, and elastic webbing interposed between said unitary structure and said corset and serving as a connecting means with the latter.

7. The combination with a corset having an outer portion which completely surrounds the figure, of a combined abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer unit underlying the front portion of the corset, attached to the corset and comprising an abdominal belt adapted to enclose the abdominal region of the figure and a diaphragm reducer adapted to enclose the region of the diaphragm of the figure, said belt and reducer being arranged in overlapping and relatively movable relationship to each other at the front portion of the figure and being permanently and with respect to each other relatively immovably attached together at their ends adjacent the sides of the figure.

8. The combination with a corset having an outer portion which completely encircles the figure, of a combined abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer unit underlying the front portion of the corset, attached to the corset and comprising an abdominal belt and diaphragm reducer, connected together in a unitary structure at their ends and being arranged in overlapping and relatively movable relationship with reference to each other intermediate their ends, said belt comprising sections detachably connected together on one side of the center of said unitary structure and said reducer comprising sections detachably connected together on the opposite side of the center of said structure.

JOSEPH LEONARD.

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