US1966808A - Shoe construction - Google Patents

Description

July 17, 1934. s. TROY 1,966,808

SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed.April 4, 1932 INVENTOR yl fiATTORNEY Patented July 17, 1934 SHOE CONSTRUCTION 7 Seymour ,Troy, New York, N. Y. Application April 4, 1932, Serial No. 602,973

2 Claims.

This invention relates to improvements in shoe construction, and particularly to the construction of the quarter and heel portion thereof.

The invention has for its object an improved 5 construction for shoes andparticularly for shoes of the turned variety, which is strong, durable, efficient and readily manufactured.

Moreparticularly, an object of the invention is to provide an improved construction for the heel and quarter portion in .womens shoes, whereby the heel is firmly held in contact with the quarter of the shoe, and whereby the danger of the heel separating from the quarter under severe strain, is substantially eliminated.

A further object of theinvention is ,to' provide a shoe construction, in which the normal outer covering of the quarter 'of a vshoe is continued down about the heel, so as to fit, snugly about the heel to cooperate with an extensionof the shoe sole formingthe breast of the heel to hold the heel firmly against movement. with respect to the quarter of the shoe. r

Other objects of the invention will in part be obvious and will in part appear hereinafter.

The invention accordingly comprises the features of construction, combinations of elements and arrangement of parts, which will be exemplified in the construction hereinafter set forth and the scope of the application of which will be indicated in the claims.

' For a further understanding of the nature and objects of the invention, reference should'be had to the following detailed description taken in connection with the accompanying drawing, in which:

Figure 1 is a perspective view with parts broken away, showing the construction of a ladys shoe of the turned variety embodying the present in- H vention; and

Fig. 2 is a rear view of the shoe.

Referring now to the drawing, and particularly to Fig. 1, 10 denotes generally a shoe having a sole 11, a vamp portion 12, a quarter portion 13 w and a heel 14. In the embodiment of the in- 5 vention shown, the vamp portion is stitched to the sole in the usual manner. The quarter comprises a counter 15 preferably of relatively heavy material shaped to conform to the heel of the wearer and which gives the shape to the quarter portion of the shoe. On the outside of this counter are provided a fabric lining 16 and an outer covering 17, preferably of leather. Inside the quarter is provided a lining 18. The outer covering and the lining may be extended to form 5 an ankle strap 19. The counter 15 is held in place by having its lower edge turned in and positioned between the upper face of the heel 14 and an extension 20 of the sole 11. In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the sole 11 is split, where it makes contact with the heel, 6 1 into two portions, the extension 20 which overlies the top of the heel and a portion 21 which covers thebreast of the heel and extends down to the tap 22.

In the event that a sole is provided without the extension 20, the counter 15 will normally be held in place between the shank piece 23 and the upper face of the heel 14. The fabric lining 16, between the outer covering 17 and the counter, preferably terminates at or about the line of contact between the upper face of the heel 14 and the extension 20 of the shoe sole. The inner lining 18 is preferably carried with the counter, so that its lower edge is held in place between the extension of the sole or the shank piece and the upper face of the heel. The outer covering or upper 17 is carried smoothly down about the heel of the shoe, and may completely cover all portions of the heel, except the breast and lower tap. The lower edges of the upper 17 are preferably inserted between the bottom of the heel 14 and the tap 22 and there held in place by suitable fastening means (not shown), for example, tacks or cement. The front edges of the upper are tightly drawn against the breast of the heel and are preferably held in position between the heel and the extension 21 of the sole in any suitable manner, for example, by cementing or stitching with wire. To aid in positioning the extension of the upper about the heel and to impart added strength to the structure, substantially the entire inner face of the extension of the upper is preferably cemented to the heel.

In the construction of the shoe, the material which is to form the outer covering or upper for the quarter and heel portion of the shoe and which is preferably a high grade leather of comparatively great tensile strength, is first crimped or shaped to conform to the ultimate outline of the quarter and heel. This may be done by hand or by pressing suitably treated material between suitably shaped dies. The parts of the shoe are then assembled on a last in the usual manner of manufacturing turned shoes. The last is removed, the unfinished shoe is turned, the heel is affixed to the sole and the depending portion of the upper 17 is then drawn about the heel, cemented or otherwise fastened in place and the tap and breast-covering members suitany extra strain or shearing stress is placed upon the heel. This is particularly true where wooden heels are used. Some increased protection has" been heretofore given by extending apo'rti'on'at-ji least of the sole along the breast of theheel, as shown for example in Fig. 1 at 211 However,

above construction, and different embodiments the leather normally used:in,so'1e construction does not have a particularly high tensile strength. I

'ing from the scope thereof, it is intended that It is intended to resist wear, but it is not designed to resist tearingor shearing. Furthermore, the position of thestr ip of the sole along the breast of the heel is such that it does no offer resistance to the most frequent type of s rain; Heels, normally break away from shoe'quarters,"beca'use' an undue strain has beenplaced against the rear edge of the tap of the heel, tending toforce the bottom of the heel. forward' and'to pull'away the rear portion of the heel from'the-sole, .The extension of ,the sole along the .breast"f .of the heel offers substantially noresistance to this type of strain. On the other. hand; thej'nven: tion described above embodies a structure peculiarly designed to resist justthis type [of come mon strain. The leathernormally .used in'the manufacture of shoe uppers intendedprimarily to resist cutting, tearing, stretching/ etc, It has, for its thickness, .a .relatively 'hig'h tensile strength. Inthe I construction shown the drawing, the entirereanportion of the. heelis encased and closely affixed to this, strong tear: resisting covering.

It has been found that in shoesernbody l n g structure of the invention, it is: practicallyfii'n possible to tear the heel from .tliesole. S ave by the exertion of a stresswhich .is seldom}, if ever; met with in the actual usei of the shoe. When a breast covering element is used'of the type shown in Fig. l, i. e. anextension ofthe sole, lthe'heel is protected from strains in every. direction, for the heel-encasing upper protectst it adequately from strains from the .rear and .,sides, ..It.,.has

been found that withshoe constructions of the type described, wooden heels may be safely used without subjecting the wearer of the shoe to the danger of losing the heel.

While the embodiment of the invention described above and shown in the drawing relates to womens shoes of the turned variety, it is to be understood that the invention is not to be so limited but is applicable to shoes made by any known process,

31511 ii lejtheLer'nbodlrnent of the invention shown in the drawing'illu'strates ash'oe'dn which the breast of the heel is covered by an extension of 1 the sole, it is to be understood that the invention is intended to cover a shoe structure in which .there is nodirect connection between the breastcovering element and the sole.

"Since certain changes may be made in the of the invention could be made without departall matter contained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawing, shall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limiting sense t is also'jto be understood that the following bel 'said' to fallftherebetween;

'fiavingdescribed my in entio n, what I claim as riew jand' desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1'." In shoe constructions of the character described, in combination, a quarter, comprising a counten asole, a heel and an upper, the sole comprising two integral portions, one positioned to'overl'ie aportionof said counter and the heel andfthe other forming thebreast of the heel, and the upper consisting of a single piece of materialadapted to substantially cover all of said qna'i ter and, all of said heel and intimately conh'etedthereto. f

. -2..A womansshoe having'in combination a counter, aleat'herupper, a heel and sole, said sole haying integral sections one adapted to overlie the breast of theheel, the other adapted to overclaimsarefintendedi'to cover all of the generic encase said heel and to protectiit n from straineverydirection, V

I SEYMOUR TROY.

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