US1953684A - Method of recording cutting operations performed upon sheet material - Google Patents

Method of recording cutting operations performed upon sheet material Download PDF

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US1953684A
US1953684A US473487A US47348730A US1953684A US 1953684 A US1953684 A US 1953684A US 473487 A US473487 A US 473487A US 47348730 A US47348730 A US 47348730A US 1953684 A US1953684 A US 1953684A
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skin
cuts
cut
cutting
section
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US473487A
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Albert L Mcmaster
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KRIPPENDORF KALCULATOR Co
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KRIPPENDORF KALCULATOR Co
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    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B25HAND TOOLS; PORTABLE POWER-DRIVEN TOOLS; MANIPULATORS
    • B25HWORKSHOP EQUIPMENT, e.g. FOR MARKING-OUT WORK; STORAGE MEANS FOR WORKSHOPS
    • B25H7/00Marking-out or setting-out work
    • B25H7/02Plates having a flat surface

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  • This invention relates to a method of recording cutting operations performed upon sheet material and is herein illustrated as applied to the recording of operations performed upon hides or 5 skins in producing blanks such as blanks for shoe uppers.
  • the method contemplates the marking of sheet material to indicate the location according to a denite scheme of different areas of the sheet material and, after the cutting, assembling the cut pieces and the scrap upon a chart by the aid of the markings.
  • the markings are placed upon the back of the material so that, as in the case of operating upon leather to produce shoe part blanks, their removal will not be necessary, the cutting operations are performed in the usual manner, and the cut pieces are numbered in sequence so that the plan followed in making the cuts can later be studied.
  • the cut pieces and scrap are preferably secured backs uppermost to a chart having markings corresponding to those upon the material, and a backing is secured to the scrap after which the assembly is inverted, the cut pieces are removed, the spaces remaining are designated by corresponding sequence marks, and marks are placed upon the backing and scrap to divide the entire area into smaller areas which may represent portions of material of dierent quality.
  • the record of the sequence of cutting operations provides a check upon the effectiveness of the planning of the operator. By the study of such records operators can be instructed how best to plan and perform the cutting operations in such manner as to obtain the greatest possible value in usable pieces from a skin.
  • Fig. 1 is a plan of a stencil and a skin, the former being superimposed upon the back of the latter in the step of marking the skin in carrying out the method;
  • Fig. 2 is a plan illustrating a portion of Fig. 1 on an enlarged scale to show the perforations in the stencil at a suiiicient size to make them appear as perforations, which is impossible at the small scale of Fig. 1;
  • Fig. 3 is a plan of the face of the skin illustrating the step of applying the patterns to the skin and showing the sequence of pattern application;
  • Fig. 4 is a plan illustrating the step of assembling the leather blanks and the scrap and corresponding paper blanks and securing them to a chart having markings thereon corresponding with and made by the aid of the stencil;
  • Fig. 5 is a plan illustrating the steps of securing the paper blanks to one another by the use of small gummed strips and of applying large gummed strips over the entire area of the assembled blanks and scrap to unite them so that they may be handled as a sheet and inverted;
  • Fig. 6 is a plan of the assembly inverted with the backs of the blanks exposed and with the chart removed illustrating the step of trimming away the surplus paper to the outline of the skin.
  • a stencil 10 comprising a sheet of appropriate material such as heavy wax-impregnated paper or perhaps celluloid which is provided with perforations whose characteristics and arrangement are such that a plurality oi areas may readily be distinguished from one another as to their location with relation to the other areas and to the entire area according to a predetermined plan by merely noting the character and arrangement of the perforations.
  • these areas are designated by certain arbitary markM ings, herein the numerals l to 9 inclusive, the numeral 1 designating the left hind leg, 2 the right hind leg, 3 the leit front 4 the right front leg, 5 the head, 6 the butt, 7 the left flank, 8 the right flank and 9 the center, ing considered with reference to the front or face of the skin.
  • each of the longitudinal lines 11 comprises a series of numerals l
  • each ofthe transverse lines l2 comprises also a series or" numerals 1
  • the longitudinal center line comprises a ries of small circles. cles are perforations.
  • Each of these areas or sections is identified by certain arbitrary markings which at once indi.
  • the two lines 11 and the two lines 12 define the boundaries of the sections. Taking, for example, the section 1 which is the left hind leg (appearing in Fig. l at the richt because it is the back-of the skin which is to be stenciled).
  • the designation 11A is the start of the numbering or marking for that particular section and these markings'read from the upper left hand corner of thesection downwardly as 12A, 13A down to 16A and then a second column starts at the top o ti 11B and so on.
  • the added symbol A indicates the first column
  • B indicatesuthosecond column and so on.
  • the mark AA in any section is the near r to the back bone, that is to say, the longitudinal section line.
  • the second numerals of the severalvertical rows run from the transverse line downwardly, while-the letters read outwardly with vreference to the center or" the skin.
  • Section,y 5 which is the neck section, is represented by a symbol, herein a diamond.
  • Section 6, which is the butt section, is represented by a symbol, herein a small circle.
  • Section 7, which is the left flank (appearing at the right on the back of the skin), is represented by a symbol, herein a triangle having an apex pointing toward the center of the skin. This is not vital, but helps to locate the section with reference to the center line or back bone.
  • Section 8, which is the right liank (appearing on the left side oi the back of the skin) is also represented by a triangle whose' apex points toward the longitudinal center line or back bone of the skin.
  • Section 9 which is the center of the skin, is represented by a large circle, substantially larger in fact than the hereinbefore described small circles which are used elsewhere. It should be understood that all of the descrbed markings are perforations and that in the case of some oi" the numerals and letters the usual method employed in connection with cutting stencils is used, namely, leaving some of the material to support a part of the numeral or letter which otherwise would be cut out and removed entirely in doing the perforating.
  • the readings are downwardly from the lower transverse line 12 and outwardly (toward the left) from the left hand longitudinal line 1l.
  • the iirst marking is 21A, the second in the same column 22A, the third 23A and so on down to 26A.
  • the second column reads 21B, 22B and so on down to 26B.
  • the markings read 'upwardly and outwardly (toward the right), that is to say, they begin at the lower left hand corner of this section above the upper transverse line l2 and read in an upward direction 31A, 32A, 33A and so on to 38A.
  • the next column reads upwardly from 31B to 38B, and the remaining columns follow in succession from left to right.
  • section fl which is vat the upper left hand corner of the stencil, the readings commence at the lower right hand corner of said section with 41A, reading upwardly 42A, 43A to 48A.
  • the next column begins 41B and ends 48B.
  • the remaining columns are read in succession from right to left.
  • the section 5 is divided into two left and right sections on either side of the longitudinal center line 13. In the right hand one of these two sections the readings begin at the lower left hand corner and read upwardly 51A, 52A, 53A to 58A. The next column at the right begins with 51B and ends with 58B. The remaining columns in succession from left to right are read in the same manner.
  • the readings commence with A51 land read upwardly to A58, the A being placed before'tne 5 to indicate that it is the left hand divi-sion or the section as contrasted with the right hand division of the section in which the letter is at the end of the marking instead of at the is vdivided by the longitudinal center line 13 into twoy left and fightsections.
  • the readings in thev right hand division begin with 61A and read downwardly to 66A, the next column begins 61B and ends 66B and the remaining columns read successively from left to right to and including the column which begins 61E and ends with 66E.
  • the left hand portion of this section begins with the column A61 and ends with A66, and the columns read successively from right to left ending with the column beginning E61 and ending E66.
  • the readings commence at the lower left hand corner with the rst column reading upwardly from 71A to '78A and the successive columns read from left to right ending with the column which begins '11F and ends 78E.
  • the readings begin at the lower right hand corner with 81A with the first column reading upwardly to 88A and the successive co1- umns are read from right to left to the last column which begins with SIF and ends with BSF.
  • Section 9 which is at the central portion of the stencil, is divided by the longitudinal center line 13 into two portions at the right and left respectively of the center line.
  • the readings commence with 91A in the first column reading upwardly to 98A, and the columns read successively from left to right to and including the column which begins 91E and ends with 98E.
  • the readings begin at the lower right hand corner with A91 reading upwardly to A98 and the columns read in succession from right to left to and including the column which begins E91 and ends with E98.
  • the described plan of marking is such that the user can with a little practice readily identify the location of any blank or piece of scrap on the hide marked by the aid of the stencil, with reierence to other adjacent areas and with reference to the entire area.
  • the second piece of apparatus which is a chart le of suitable material such as heavy paper or cardboard and having markings corresponding with those of the stencil and conveniently made by the aid of the latter by superimposing one upon the other and dabbing ink or the like through the perforations onto the paper.
  • the first stepin carrying out the method is to lay the stencil on the back or flesh side of a skin 15 (see Fig. l) and stencil the skin by the use of a brush through the perforations in the stencil.
  • a portion of the stencil is broken away to expose a portion of the skin and to show the markings on the latter.
  • the next step is to place the skin face up and to commence to make the cuts.
  • a person standing beside the cutter takes the cut pieces or blanks one by one in the order in which they have been cut by the cutter and marks them with suitable symbols such as numerals (see Fig. 3) indicating the sequence of the cuts. These marks are made upon the front or back of each blank.
  • the cutter is given genn eral instructions as to the best sequence, but the sequence will vary somewhat with different skins and with different individuals. An important thing is to have the second person standing by to number the cuts as they are made. By this means, when the blanks and the scrap are later reassembled, the sequence in which the cuts were made can be shown, an analysis of the pattern application can be made and corrective sugges tions can be made to the cutter.
  • the next step is for the supervisory or inspector to assemble the blank on the paper chart (see Fig. e) and to secure them one by one tothe chart as by the use of thrumb tacks 16.
  • the scrap is then laid on and tted in between the blanks. The faces of the pieces are placed against the chart and in Fig. 4 the numerals indicating the sequence of the cuts appear in dotted lines inverted.
  • the next step is to cut out of papera full set of cut-outs or blanks 17 corresponding to the leather cut-outs and to lay each paper cut-out upon the leather cut-out of which it is a cotmterpart.
  • the individual paper cut-outs 1'7 are fastened to the adjacent scraps 1S (see Fig. 5) by small pieces of gummed paper tape 19. These are very numerous and are placed in such a way as to secure the parts together to avoid their becoming shifted accidentally.
  • the next step is to cover the entire area with a backing of gummed strips 2i) laid edge to edge (see the right hand portion of Fig. 5).
  • these strips may be approximately four inches wide. I prefer to use these strips instead of a single sheet because of the greater convenience of application. These strips will adhere to the paper cut-outs and to the scrap. The paper cut-outs thus protect the faces of the cuts.
  • the next step is to invert the entire assembly by laying a beard or cardboard on top of the assembly as it appears in Fig. 5 and then turning the board and the assembly bottom side up as a unit.
  • the reassembling chart 14 is then removed carefully from the points of the thumb tacks.
  • the leather blanks are then picked out readily because they are not stuck to the paper cut-outs beneath them. In other words, the paper cut-outs serve to prevent the leather blank from being damaged by the gummed paper.
  • Each leather cut has, or" course, the previously applied number indicating the sequence in which it was cut and, as the leather blanks are removed one by one, the inspector marks the sequence nurnbers upon the paper cut-outs in the spaces from which the leather blanks were taken (see Fig. 6).
  • the cutter himself has no part in all of this except to follow the general instructions and to perform the cutting operation just as if his work were not being subjected to observation. Except for the actual cutting operation, the other steps are taken by one or more other persons. rIhe described method enables definite corrective instructions to be given to the cutter. If, for example, the first cut was made in section 1 (the left hind leg), the second cut in section 2 (the right hind leg), the third cut in section 3 (the left front leg), and the fourth cut in section 4 (the right front leg), the method used in making these rst four cuts is definitely established.
  • the sequence oi cutting shown in the drawings is what is called skirting the skin, the cuts all being made to clean up all of the poorer or doubtful leather as regards stretch, poor quality, etc., irst. This leaves the center of the skin (sections 9 and which contains the best grade leather, to be cut last into Vamps or tips, which parts of the shoe shouid be cut from the best quality in each skin.
  • this piece ci stock left for this purpose is of generally square and enables the cutter to apply his patterns closely with regard to pattern shape only, taking advantage of all curves and angles in itting the patterns together without having the added disadvantage of being obliged to consider the stretch the leather and other considerations which he would have had to bear in mind if these sections 6 and 9 had been cut first and if consequently be had been obliged to finish the cutting in any other irregularly shaped section.
  • Another advantage is that in cutting side leather (which is large skin of cowhide or horsehide cut in halves down the backbone) it is often poss'ble in a large piece of leather to obtain what is called a run or combination of cuts one after other in which advantage is taken of the pattern to fit the patterns together clcseiy, t-.. reby reducing the waste or scrap between the cuts to a minimum.
  • Establishing a run and holding it depends to a great extent on the way in which it was started. Having the cuts of a run numbered as made is vital in giving instructions for its us
  • This run advantage also annales to cutting cloth or other materials in which the question of quality (i. e., imperfections in sk'ns, stretch, etc.) would not be a factor, the cutters whole problem here being one of patterning with a clear field in which to work.
  • the iirst and simplest is to use one skin and to number the cuts in the manner which has already been described.
  • Another way is to make the iirst two head cuts in one skin, reassemble that skin with those two cuts only having been made and then taking the second skin and making the same two head cuts and in addition two iront leg cuts, after which the second skin is reassembled. Then a third skin is taken, and the two head cuts and the two front leg cuts as well as the tivo: hind leg cuts are made. This plan might continue until five or sin skins had been used to show the progress through the skins.
  • the rst would be toV start with nur ber 1 in the rst skin and to number the iirst two cuts numbers l and 2. @n the second the four cuts are numbered 1 to 4 inclusive, that is to say, the numbers l and 2 used on the iirst skin are used again in section 5 or 'he head section. Cuts are made as in the first skin and numbered 1 and 2, but in add tion the numbers 3 and 4 are used. In he third skin, the numbers l to 4 inclusive are used on second skin and the added numbers 5 and G are used. This numbering method is followed on all oi the skins used to illustrate this methoIl of numbering. Following this numbering method it would. be necessary to give each sk n a number to show where the irst cuts numbered l and 2 originated.
  • the second way oit numbering when two or more skins are used would be to start in the first skin with cuts l and 2, then go to the second skin, numbering the cuts 3 to o inclusive, then to the third skin, numbering the cuts 7 to l2 inclusive and so on until the illustration is completed.
  • the foregoing method establishes a shoe qual-- ity standart. ln shoe ma g an attempt is always made to obain what is called' a uniform upper. that to a pair shoes is so matched that the corresponding parts of the saniA pair come from. corresponding parts of the skin, that is, the leg cuts together, the head cuts together, ilank cuts together and so on.
  • the described method also enables one out, hide or skin to be identified or distinguished from another. By placing va distinguishing mark on each skin, all parts of one skin can be identified and distinguished from all parts of another skin after the skins have been cut up.
  • a job consists of a definite number of skins, each skin containing a denite number of square feet from which he is supposed to cut a denite number of shoes or parts of shoes, the allowance or estimated footage necessary for these shoes having previously been determined by surveys of the pattern to be used which may Vary according to the size, shape or style of shoe to be cut.
  • the type of skins to be used and the grade and quality of the same also must be considered.
  • a job might contain one skin or fty, according to size. As a cutter works along, he keeps all cut parts together by size,
  • the method of making a record of the location and sequence of cuts in cutting a sheet comprising placing on various parts of the sheet on one face thereof marks which indicate their locations according to a' definite scheme, cutting blanks from the sheet with the other face uppermost, marking the blanks to indicate the sequence ofthe 'cutting,"assembling the'blanks and scrap upon a chart' by 'the aid of said marks, securing a backing-of sheet material to the scrap, inverting the assembly, reincving'th'e blanks bearing the seque'nee marks," and'v designating by corresponding sequence marks the spaces from which such pieces were removed(
  • Themethod of making a record of the loca,- ton' and sequence of cuts in cutting a sheet comprising Yplacing on variouspartsV of the sheet on one ther-eef marks which indicate their locations according to a definite scheme, cutting pieces from the sheet with the other face uppermost, marking desired pieces to indicate the sequence of the cutting, assembling the desired pieces and scrap upon a chart by the
  • the method or" making a record of the location and sequence of cuts in cutting a sheet comprising placing on various parts of the sheet on one face thereof marks which indicate their locations according to a denite scheme, cutting the sheet with the other face uppermost, marking the desired pieces as distinguished from the undesired pieces or scrap to indicate the sequence of the cutting, cutting a set o pieces of paper or the like as duplicates of said desired pieces, assembling said desired pieces with their paper duplicates upon a chart by the aid of said marks and with said desired pieces between said paper duplicates and said chart, securing said paper duplicates tc one another by the aid of sheet material adhering thereto, inverting the assembly, removing said desired pieces bearing the sequence marks, and placing corresponding sequence marks upon said paper duplicates.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

April 3, 1934- A. L. McMAsTER 1,953,684
METHOD OF RECORDING` CUTTING OPERATIONS PERFORMED UPON SHEET MATERIAL Filed Aug. 6, 1930 3 Sheets-Sheet l 4 5 5 f A A /0 Y A Y W Blg. B. 6
ElElllD April 3, 1934- A. 1 McMAsTER 1,953,684
METHOD OF RECORDING CUTTING OPERATIONS PERFORMED UPON SHEET MATERIAL Filed Aug. 6, 1930 S'Sheets-Sheet 2 .1.1.1.1.1.111-1-1Q1o11o111111.1.1.1.1.1.
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AGF Ass aan nec ass a es sec 36D ses ser ASF ass 58 :5c 350 s55 :15P
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-i-'ll ASF-13E April 3, 1934. A L. McMAsTER 1,953,684
METHOD OF' RECORDING CUTTING OPERATIONS PERFORMED UPON SHEET MATERIAL Filed Aug. 6, 1930 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented pr. 3, 1934 METHOD OF RECORDING CUTTING OPERA- TIONS PERFORMED TERIAL UPON SHEET MA- Albert L. McMaster, Lynn, Mass., assgnor to Krippendorf Kalculator Company, Portland, Maine, a. corporation of Maine Application August 6, 1930, Serial No. 473,487
Claims.
This invention relates to a method of recording cutting operations performed upon sheet material and is herein illustrated as applied to the recording of operations performed upon hides or 5 skins in producing blanks such as blanks for shoe uppers.
It is an object of the invention to record cutting operations performed upon sheet material in such a way that workers may be readily nstructed in planning and performing cutting operations upon sheet material and conveniently for checking the eifectiveness of such operations after the work has been completed.
To this end, and as illustrated, the method contemplates the marking of sheet material to indicate the location according to a denite scheme of different areas of the sheet material and, after the cutting, assembling the cut pieces and the scrap upon a chart by the aid of the markings. Preferably, the markings are placed upon the back of the material so that, as in the case of operating upon leather to produce shoe part blanks, their removal will not be necessary, the cutting operations are performed in the usual manner, and the cut pieces are numbered in sequence so that the plan followed in making the cuts can later be studied. In the assembling, the cut pieces and scrap are preferably secured backs uppermost to a chart having markings corresponding to those upon the material, and a backing is secured to the scrap after which the assembly is inverted, the cut pieces are removed, the spaces remaining are designated by corresponding sequence marks, and marks are placed upon the backing and scrap to divide the entire area into smaller areas which may represent portions of material of dierent quality. By the use of such procedure the cut pieces can be readily assembled to form a record by which the eiectiveness of the cutting operations can be studied.
Thus it is possible, for example, to eiect economies in the cutting of leather and to make sui-table selection of the various grades of leather in a skin for the parts of shoe uppers to which they are best suited. In this connection, in the resulting record the location of the spaces, from which the cut pieces were removed, relatively to different areas of a skin Will be readily observable with the result that the efliciency of the operator in cutting the pieces in areas in which the quality of the skin is suitable for the use for which each piece is intended, can be ascertained. Also, since the effectiveness of the cuts made, from the standpoint of economy of material, depends, to a large extent, upon the order followed in cutting pieces of various shapes from the different areas of a skin, the record of the sequence of cutting operations provides a check upon the effectiveness of the planning of the operator. By the study of such records operators can be instructed how best to plan and perform the cutting operations in such manner as to obtain the greatest possible value in usable pieces from a skin.
The invention will best be understood by reference to the following description when taken in connection with the accompanying drawings illustrative of the method and means, while its scope will be pointed out more particularly in the appended claims.
In the drawings:
Fig. 1 is a plan of a stencil and a skin, the former being superimposed upon the back of the latter in the step of marking the skin in carrying out the method;
Fig. 2 is a plan illustrating a portion of Fig. 1 on an enlarged scale to show the perforations in the stencil at a suiiicient size to make them appear as perforations, which is impossible at the small scale of Fig. 1;
Fig. 3 is a plan of the face of the skin illustrating the step of applying the patterns to the skin and showing the sequence of pattern application;
Fig. 4 is a plan illustrating the step of assembling the leather blanks and the scrap and corresponding paper blanks and securing them to a chart having markings thereon corresponding with and made by the aid of the stencil;
Fig. 5 is a plan illustrating the steps of securing the paper blanks to one another by the use of small gummed strips and of applying large gummed strips over the entire area of the assembled blanks and scrap to unite them so that they may be handled as a sheet and inverted; and
Fig. 6 is a plan of the assembly inverted with the backs of the blanks exposed and with the chart removed illustrating the step of trimming away the surplus paper to the outline of the skin.
Referring to the drawings and to the method of and means for practicing the method illustrated therein and having reference at rst more particularly to Fig. l, there is shown as a part of the apparatus suitable printing means, herein a stencil 10 comprising a sheet of appropriate material such as heavy wax-impregnated paper or perhaps celluloid which is provided with perforations whose characteristics and arrangement are such that a plurality oi areas may readily be distinguished from one another as to their location with relation to the other areas and to the entire area according to a predetermined plan by merely noting the character and arrangement of the perforations.
It is well known that the density and other characteristics of a skin vary in accordance with the relation of each part of skin to the anatomy of the animal from which it is taken. It is, therefore, desirable and customary to make cuts for an upper from the areas which are best suited to the particular part of boot or shoe in which the cut is to be used. For practical purposes it may be considered that a skin comp `ises nine areas which should be borne in mind in making the cuts. In accordance with my invention, these areas are designated by certain arbitary markM ings, herein the numerals l to 9 inclusive, the numeral 1 designating the left hind leg, 2 the right hind leg, 3 the leit front 4 the right front leg, 5 the head, 6 the butt, 7 the left flank, 8 the right flank and 9 the center, ing considered with reference to the front or face of the skin.
These areas, are defined by two parallel broken lines 11, which may properlybe called longitudinal lines because they extend longitudinally of the skin when the stencil is superimposed upon the latter, and there are two parallel transverse broken lines 12 perpendicular -to the longitudinal lines. As it is important that the stencil shall be centered with relation to the back bone of the skin, the stencil is provided with a fifth broken line 13 which is a longitudinal center line midway between the two longitudinal lines 1l. Instead of making lines 11, 12 and 13 as continu ous lines drawn or printed upon the stencil, each is of the nature of a broken line formed by a series of perforations. For example, as shown, each of the longitudinal lines 11 comprises a series of numerals l, each ofthe transverse lines l2 comprises also a series or" numerals 1 and the longitudinal center line comprises a ries of small circles. cles are perforations.
Each of these areas or sections is identified by certain arbitrary markings which at once indi.
cate not only the arbitrary number of the section as above alluded to but also the relation of each section to the lines 11, 12 and 13, it being remembered that the two lines 11 and the two lines 12 define the boundaries of the sections. Taking, for example, the section 1 which is the left hind leg (appearing in Fig. l at the richt because it is the back-of the skin which is to be stenciled). the designation 11A is the start of the numbering or marking for that particular section and these markings'read from the upper left hand corner of thesection downwardly as 12A, 13A down to 16A and then a second column starts at the top o ti 11B and so on. Thus'the added symbol A indicates the first column, B indicatesuthosecond column and so on. The mark AA in any section is the near r to the back bone, that is to say, the longitudinal section line. In section 1 the second numerals of the severalvertical rows run from the transverse line downwardly, while-the letters read outwardly with vreference to the center or" the skin. l
In addition, there arerows or the numerati, or whatever numeralmay desired, meaningl stencil #l or whatever number it may bear, and. with each of these numerals there is associated` an arbitrary symbol meaning that the sectionv these These numerals and cir-A e section with the mark in question is a leg. This same symbol is used on each of the four legs and in the present example this symbol is a square. This disposes of the four sections numbered respectively 1, 2, 3 and 4 which are the leg sections.
Section,y 5, which is the neck section, is represented by a symbol, herein a diamond. Section 6, which is the butt section, is represented by a symbol, herein a small circle. Section 7, which is the left flank (appearing at the right on the back of the skin), is represented by a symbol, herein a triangle having an apex pointing toward the center of the skin. This is not vital, but helps to locate the section with reference to the center line or back bone. Section 8, which is the right liank (appearing on the left side oi the back of the skin) is also represented by a triangle whose' apex points toward the longitudinal center line or back bone of the skin. Section 9, which is the center of the skin, is represented by a large circle, substantially larger in fact than the hereinbefore described small circles which are used elsewhere. It should be understood that all of the descrbed markings are perforations and that in the case of some oi" the numerals and letters the usual method employed in connection with cutting stencils is used, namely, leaving some of the material to support a part of the numeral or letter which otherwise would be cut out and removed entirely in doing the perforating.
Referring to section 2, which is at the lower left hand corner of the stencil, it will be observed that the readings are downwardly from the lower transverse line 12 and outwardly (toward the left) from the left hand longitudinal line 1l. For example, the iirst marking is 21A, the second in the same column 22A, the third 23A and so on down to 26A. The second column reads 21B, 22B and so on down to 26B. Referring to section 3, which is at the upper right hand corner of the stencil, the markings read 'upwardly and outwardly (toward the right), that is to say, they begin at the lower left hand corner of this section above the upper transverse line l2 and read in an upward direction 31A, 32A, 33A and so on to 38A. The next column reads upwardly from 31B to 38B, and the remaining columns follow in succession from left to right. In section fl, which is vat the upper left hand corner of the stencil, the readings commence at the lower right hand corner of said section with 41A, reading upwardly 42A, 43A to 48A. The next column begins 41B and ends 48B. The remaining columns are read in succession from right to left.
The section 5 is divided into two left and right sections on either side of the longitudinal center line 13. In the right hand one of these two sections the readings begin at the lower left hand corner and read upwardly 51A, 52A, 53A to 58A. The next column at the right begins with 51B and ends with 58B. The remaining columns in succession from left to right are read in the same manner. Going back now to the longitudinal center line and considering the left hand division of section 5, the readings commence with A51 land read upwardly to A58, the A being placed before'tne 5 to indicate that it is the left hand divi-sion or the section as contrasted with the right hand division of the section in which the letter is at the end of the marking instead of at the is vdivided by the longitudinal center line 13 into twoy left and fightsections. The readings in thev right hand division begin with 61A and read downwardly to 66A, the next column begins 61B and ends 66B and the remaining columns read successively from left to right to and including the column which begins 61E and ends with 66E. The left hand portion of this section begins with the column A61 and ends with A66, and the columns read successively from right to left ending with the column beginning E61 and ending E66.
In the section 7, the readings commence at the lower left hand corner with the rst column reading upwardly from 71A to '78A and the successive columns read from left to right ending with the column which begins '11F and ends 78E. In the corresponding section 8, which is at the left hand side of the stencil, the readings begin at the lower right hand corner with 81A with the first column reading upwardly to 88A and the successive co1- umns are read from right to left to the last column which begins with SIF and ends with BSF.
Section 9, which is at the central portion of the stencil, is divided by the longitudinal center line 13 into two portions at the right and left respectively of the center line. In the right hand portion the readings commence with 91A in the first column reading upwardly to 98A, and the columns read successively from left to right to and including the column which begins 91E and ends with 98E. In the left hand portion of this section, the readings begin at the lower right hand corner with A91 reading upwardly to A98 and the columns read in succession from right to left to and including the column which begins E91 and ends with E98.
The described plan of marking is such that the user can with a little practice readily identify the location of any blank or piece of scrap on the hide marked by the aid of the stencil, with reierence to other adjacent areas and with reference to the entire area. The same is true oi' the second piece of apparatus, which is a chart le of suitable material such as heavy paper or cardboard and having markings corresponding with those of the stencil and conveniently made by the aid of the latter by superimposing one upon the other and dabbing ink or the like through the perforations onto the paper.
The first stepin carrying out the method is to lay the stencil on the back or flesh side of a skin 15 (see Fig. l) and stencil the skin by the use of a brush through the perforations in the stencil. In Fig. 1 a portion of the stencil is broken away to expose a portion of the skin and to show the markings on the latter. The next step is to place the skin face up and to commence to make the cuts. As a part of this step a person standing beside the cutter takes the cut pieces or blanks one by one in the order in which they have been cut by the cutter and marks them with suitable symbols such as numerals (see Fig. 3) indicating the sequence of the cuts. These marks are made upon the front or back of each blank. In the present example, they are made on the front and may be erased later. If they are made on the back, they need not be erased. The cutter is given genn eral instructions as to the best sequence, but the sequence will vary somewhat with different skins and with different individuals. An important thing is to have the second person standing by to number the cuts as they are made. By this means, when the blanks and the scrap are later reassembled, the sequence in which the cuts were made can be shown, an analysis of the pattern application can be made and corrective sugges tions can be made to the cutter.
The next step is for the supervisory or inspector to assemble the blank on the paper chart (see Fig. e) and to secure them one by one tothe chart as by the use of thrumb tacks 16. The scrap is then laid on and tted in between the blanks. The faces of the pieces are placed against the chart and in Fig. 4 the numerals indicating the sequence of the cuts appear in dotted lines inverted.
The next step is to cut out of papera full set of cut-outs or blanks 17 corresponding to the leather cut-outs and to lay each paper cut-out upon the leather cut-out of which it is a cotmterpart. As a part of this step, the individual paper cut-outs 1'7 are fastened to the adjacent scraps 1S (see Fig. 5) by small pieces of gummed paper tape 19. These are very numerous and are placed in such a way as to secure the parts together to avoid their becoming shifted accidentally.
The next step is to cover the entire area with a backing of gummed strips 2i) laid edge to edge (see the right hand portion of Fig. 5). In practice these strips may be approximately four inches wide. I prefer to use these strips instead of a single sheet because of the greater convenience of application. These strips will adhere to the paper cut-outs and to the scrap. The paper cut-outs thus protect the faces of the cuts.
The next step is to invert the entire assembly by laying a beard or cardboard on top of the assembly as it appears in Fig. 5 and then turning the board and the assembly bottom side up as a unit. The reassembling chart 14 is then removed carefully from the points of the thumb tacks. The leather blanks are then picked out readily because they are not stuck to the paper cut-outs beneath them. In other words, the paper cut-outs serve to prevent the leather blank from being damaged by the gummed paper. Each leather cut has, or" course, the previously applied number indicating the sequence in which it was cut and, as the leather blanks are removed one by one, the inspector marks the sequence nurnbers upon the paper cut-outs in the spaces from which the leather blanks were taken (see Fig. 6).
Finally the gurnmed paper about the edge of the skin is trimmed away to the outline of the latter. The commencement of this operation is indicated at the right hand portion of Fig. 6. When this has been completed, division lines corresponding with the lines 11, 12 and 13 and the numbers of the sections (1 to 9 inclusive) are marked by suitable means such as a pencil or otherwise, partly on the scrap and partly on the paper in the out out places. The resulting record, which tells the story of what was done by the cutter, can be given a filing number by means of a sticker or otherwise indicating the number of that particular skin.
The cutter himself has no part in all of this except to follow the general instructions and to perform the cutting operation just as if his work were not being subjected to observation. Except for the actual cutting operation, the other steps are taken by one or more other persons. rIhe described method enables definite corrective instructions to be given to the cutter. If, for example, the first cut was made in section 1 (the left hind leg), the second cut in section 2 (the right hind leg), the third cut in section 3 (the left front leg), and the fourth cut in section 4 (the right front leg), the method used in making these rst four cuts is definitely established. It would thus be possible by testing cuttings to prove whether it would have been better judgment to have made all of these irst four cuts in section 5 (the head) as shown in the drawings or to have made, in certain types of skins, a start in some other section. In addition to noting how a cutter starts a skin, it is also important to check how he iinishcd, that is to say, in what section his last cut was made. In the drawings, it appears that the last cut numbered 56 was made in section 9.
The sequence oi cutting shown in the drawings is what is called skirting the skin, the cuts all being made to clean up all of the poorer or doubtful leather as regards stretch, poor quality, etc., irst. This leaves the center of the skin (sections 9 and which contains the best grade leather, to be cut last into Vamps or tips, which parts of the shoe shouid be cut from the best quality in each skin. lt should here be noted that this piece ci stock left for this purpose is of generally square and enables the cutter to apply his patterns closely with regard to pattern shape only, taking advantage of all curves and angles in itting the patterns together without having the added disadvantage of being obliged to consider the stretch the leather and other considerations which he would have had to bear in mind if these sections 6 and 9 had been cut first and if consequently be had been obliged to finish the cutting in any other irregularly shaped section. Another advaitage is found in cutting colored leather, because this brings into the situat'on anotl er factor inasmuch as all colored shoes are paired up, that is to say, all of the part-3 which go to make up a pair of sho-es (as Vamps, quarters, tips, etc.) are mated as closely as possible to the same shade of color. As most colored leather varies in shade in different parts oi saine sk o it is a distinct advantage to be able to trace ".ie sequence of the cuts as made, because, in cutting up a colored skin, the proper method or sequence of cuts might and probably would be entrely different from that used for cutting up a black skin ot the same general size and shape.
Another advantage is that in cutting side leather (which is large skin of cowhide or horsehide cut in halves down the backbone) it is often poss'ble in a large piece of leather to obtain what is called a run or combination of cuts one after other in which advantage is taken of the pattern to fit the patterns together clcseiy, t-.. reby reducing the waste or scrap between the cuts to a minimum. Establishing a run and holding it depends to a great extent on the way in which it was started. Having the cuts of a run numbered as made is vital in giving instructions for its us This run advantage also annales to cutting cloth or other materials in which the question of quality (i. e., imperfections in sk'ns, stretch, etc.) would not be a factor, the cutters whole problem here being one of patterning with a clear field in which to work.
Another advent is found in course or" instructions unierein it would be necessary to cut partly into two or more skins to illustrate properly the method to be used. For example, to cut up properly a certain type of kid skin, the head or section 5 cuts are made rst. The two front leg cuts, sections 3 and e. are made next. lThe second hind leg cuts, sections l and 2, are next made and so on until the cutting of the skin is cornpleted.
Two or more ways oi numbering the cuts could be employed. The iirst and simplest is to use one skin and to number the cuts in the manner which has already been described. Another way is to make the iirst two head cuts in one skin, reassemble that skin with those two cuts only having been made and then taking the second skin and making the same two head cuts and in addition two iront leg cuts, after which the second skin is reassembled. Then a third skin is taken, and the two head cuts and the two front leg cuts as well as the tivo: hind leg cuts are made. This plan might continue until five or sin skins had been used to show the progress through the skins.
Two ways of runnberin'T these cuts might be employed. The rst would be toV start with nur ber 1 in the rst skin and to number the iirst two cuts numbers l and 2. @n the second the four cuts are numbered 1 to 4 inclusive, that is to say, the numbers l and 2 used on the iirst skin are used again in section 5 or 'he head section. Cuts are made as in the first skin and numbered 1 and 2, but in add tion the numbers 3 and 4 are used. In he third skin, the numbers l to 4 inclusive are used on second skin and the added numbers 5 and G are used. This numbering method is followed on all oi the skins used to illustrate this methoIl of numbering. Following this numbering method it would. be necessary to give each sk n a number to show where the irst cuts numbered l and 2 originated.
The second way oit numbering when two or more skins are used would be to start in the first skin with cuts l and 2, then go to the second skin, numbering the cuts 3 to o inclusive, then to the third skin, numbering the cuts 7 to l2 inclusive and so on until the illustration is completed.
The foregoing method establishes a shoe qual-- ity standart. ln shoe ma g an attempt is always made to obain what is called' a uniform upper. that to a pair shoes is so matched that the corresponding parts of the saniA pair come from. corresponding parts of the skin, that is, the leg cuts together, the head cuts together, ilank cuts together and so on.
In a pair of shoes requiring four quarters or tops, having three of them cut from the leg sections and the fourth from a flank section would be called mis-mating. pened heretofore and they are allowed to go niismated and in the cheaper grade ci' shoes sonictimes no attempt is made to mate them, it is als often desirable from a standpoint of quality in shoe making to be sure to have them mated as nearly correctly as possible. Instead o relying on the judgment of a leather sorter as heretofore, it is now possible by the use of my new method to recognize parte of different quality by the markings on the same. By the use or the different symbols, squares on the leg sections, diamonds on the head section, triangles on the :dank sections, etc., it is now a simple matter to separate the out shoe parts as regards quality.
rlwo or more parte out from the saine quality section might vary in their value. This varia-- tion could be caused by the pattern not properly placed as regards stretch. Stretch being the natural give or looseness in certain parts of an animal hide, it is of the utmost importance that this factor should be given careful consideration by the cutter in placing patti 51s, for in the construction o1' a quality shoe, stretch o.' give should be in the right direction.
Another factorto beconsidered even :in the same quality sections is that of having the quarters or tops toed into the center of the skin. This is especially important in cutting colored leather bc- While this has often hap-v cause in colored leather the tendency is for the skirts or skin edges to be of a darker shade' than the center and this toeing in of quarters would mean that the forepart of a quarter would blend better with the vamps. This would constitute another point in quality shoe making. =Both of these points can be checked definitely by theuse of the described method. f
The described method also enables one out, hide or skin to be identified or distinguished from another. By placing va distinguishing mark on each skin, all parts of one skin can be identified and distinguished from all parts of another skin after the skins have been cut up.
It is often desirable when making test cuttings of new leather (as regards quality, ctc.) or when testing a cutters ability (in regard to pattern application) to chart or stencil each skin with a different color or to use some other distinguishing marking. A series of the described stencils with a stencil numb-er included in the design is one convenient method of obtaining this result.
Leather is given to a cutter in jobs. A job consists of a definite number of skins, each skin containing a denite number of square feet from which he is supposed to cut a denite number of shoes or parts of shoes, the allowance or estimated footage necessary for these shoes having previously been determined by surveys of the pattern to be used which may Vary according to the size, shape or style of shoe to be cut. The type of skins to be used and the grade and quality of the same also must be considered. A job might contain one skin or fty, according to size. As a cutter works along, he keeps all cut parts together by size,
width, etc., on his bench. All scrap or Waste leather which he has been unable to work into the shoe parts, either because of poor quality leather or because of poor judgment in pattern application (not iitting the patterns closely), is thrown into the scrap box under the work bench. Should a job cut high (that is, lose a large percentage of leather over the estimated footage allowance), it might be desirable to reassemble every skin cut to determine the reason for this loss.
By having marked the skins differently as previously described, before the job was cut, it would be possible to assort all of the cut shoe parts and scrap pieces from the scrap box and reassemble any desired skin. Another advantage would be found in making test cuttings of a new purchase of leather because it is often desirable to have the leather salesman select what he con- V siders to be an average skin from the lot to be bought.
In addition to this average skin, one might be selected to represent the best and another the poorest, as leather quality varies in different skins of the same grade and price. Should these three selections be made, it would be necessary that each skin should be marked in some way diirerent from the others so that the cut parts and the scrap of one skin could be distinguished from the cut parts and the scrap of the others after the three skins have been cut together in the same job. This desirable result likewise can be obtained by the use of the described method.
Having thus described one method exemplifying the invention, but without limiting myself thereto, what I claim and by Letters Patent desire to secure is:
1. The method of making a record of the location and sequence of cuts in cutting a sheet, comprising placing on various parts of the sheet on one face thereof marks which indicate their locations according to a' definite scheme, cutting blanks from the sheet with the other face uppermost, marking the blanks to indicate the sequence ofthe 'cutting,"assembling the'blanks and scrap upon a chart' by 'the aid of said marks, securing a backing-of sheet material to the scrap, inverting the assembly, reincving'th'e blanks bearing the seque'nee marks," and'v designating by corresponding sequence marks the spaces from which such pieces were removed( Themethod of making a record of the loca,- ton' and sequence of cuts in cutting a sheet, comprising Yplacing on variouspartsV of the sheet on one ther-eef marks which indicate their locations according to a definite scheme, cutting pieces from the sheet with the other face uppermost, marking desired pieces to indicate the sequence of the cutting, assembling the desired pieces and scrap upon a chart by the aid of said marks, securing to the scrap a backing of-sheet material, inverting the assembly, removing the pieces bearing the sequence marks, designating by corresponding sequence marks the spaces from which. said pieces were removed, and placing upon said backing of sheet material and on the scrap marks dividing the entire area into smaller areas.
3. The method or" making a record of the location and sequence of cuts in cutting a sheet, comprising placing on various parts of the sheet on one face thereof marks which indicate their locations according to a denite scheme, cutting the sheet with the other face uppermost, marking the desired pieces as distinguished from the undesired pieces or scrap to indicate the sequence of the cutting, cutting a set o pieces of paper or the like as duplicates of said desired pieces, assembling said desired pieces with their paper duplicates upon a chart by the aid of said marks and with said desired pieces between said paper duplicates and said chart, securing said paper duplicates tc one another by the aid of sheet material adhering thereto, inverting the assembly, removing said desired pieces bearing the sequence marks, and placing corresponding sequence marks upon said paper duplicates.
4. The method of making a record of the location and sequence of cuts in cutting a sheet, comprising placing on various parts of the sheet on one face thereof marks which indicate their` locations according to a denite scheme, cutting the sheet with the other face uppermost, marking the desired pieces as distinguished from the undesired pieces or scrap to indicate the sequence of the cutting, cutting a set of pieces of paper or the like as duplicates of said desired pieces, assembling the scrap and said desired pieces with their paper duplicates upon a chart by the aid of said marks and with said desired pieces between said paper duplicates and said second sheet, securing said desired pieces to said chart by removable fasteners, securing said paper duplicates to one another by the aid of sheet material adhering thereto, inverting the assembly, unfastening said second sheet from said desired pieces which were secured to it by said removable fasteners, removing said desired pieces bearing the sequence marks, placing corresponding sequence marks upon said paper duplicates, and placing upon said paper duplicates and upon said undesired pieces or scrap marks dividing the entire area into smaller areas corresponding with said locations according to said scheme.
5. The method of making a record of the location and sequence of cuts in cutting a sheet,
(vw, n. a
comprising placing on various parts of the `sheet on one face thereof marks which indicate their locations according to a definite scheme, cutting the sheet with the other face uppermost, marking the desired pieces as distinguished from the undesired pieces or scrap to indicate the sequence of the cutting, cutting a set of pieces of paper or the like as duplicates of said desired pieces, assembling the scrap and said desired pieces with their paper duplicates upon a chart by the aid of said marks and with said desired pieces between said paper duplicates and said second sheet, securing said desired pieces to said chart by removable fasteners, securing said paper dupli-
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4819644A (en) * 1987-10-29 1989-04-11 Cherniak Jaime G Base plate to form an insole for an orthotic foot brace and a method of forming an orthotic foot brace

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4819644A (en) * 1987-10-29 1989-04-11 Cherniak Jaime G Base plate to form an insole for an orthotic foot brace and a method of forming an orthotic foot brace

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