US1936662A - Hair waving method - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 28, 1933. w. H. H. DAVIS HAIR WAVING METHOD 4 Shee ts-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 5, 1932 INVENTOR. M76270? /7 H DOV/3 BY Nov. 28, 1933.

w. H. H. DAVIS 1,936,662

HAIR WAVING METHOD Filed Dec. 5, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. H ////'a/77 /7( /7f Dov/l5 A TTORN Nov. 28, 1933.

w. H. H. DAVIS 1,936,662

HAIR WAVI'NG METHOD Filed Dec. 5. 1932 4 Sheets-$heet 3 4 7 INVENTOR. fl/////0/77 /7'. /7. Dar/5 A TTO NE YS.

Nov. 28, 1933. w. H. H. DAVIS 1,936,662

HAIR WAVING METHOD Filed Dec. 5, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 73 7/ 5 2y T w 37 mum/1mm INVENTQR.

A T'TORNE YS.

Patented Nov. 28, 1 933 HAIR WAVING METHOD William H. H. Davis, San Francisco, Calif., as signor to United States Appliance Corporation,

San Francisco, Calii'.,

forma a corporation of Cali- Application December 5, 1932. Serial No. 645,703

Claims.

This invention relates generally to methods and apparatus for the waving of human hair, particularly of the type adapted for commercial beauty parlors where heat is applied to lend permanency 5 to the wave.

Before outlining the objects of the present invention, it may be explained that in the past two general methods have been employed in the waving of hair. In one method, known by the name no croquignole, a protector is clamped upon a flattened strand of hair, near the scalp. The operator then winds the flattened strand of hair upon a curler, beginning with the tip of the strand, and winding towards the protector with successive convolutions on top of each other. When substantially the entire strand has been wound upon the curler, and the curler is adjacent to the protector, the parts are held in such relationship while heat is applied. One disadvantage inherent with this method is that it is frequently diificult to properly distribute the strand upon the curler, with uniform tension, because the largest portion of the strand is placed outermost. A further disadvantage is that the winding down operation upon the curler requires both hands of the operator, and therefore a certain amount of pull is imparted to the scalp to the discomfort of the patient. The other method of waving in general use, is known by the name spiral, and utilizes an elongated pencil-like waving rod upon which a bunched strand of hair is wound, one convolution next to the other, like the helicoidal thread of a screw. Spiral waving has the disadvantage that it requires a greater amount of skill on the part of the operator, and it does not produce a wave which is as natural as the croquignole method, due to the bunching of the strand.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a unique method of hair waving, which will impart a natural wave to the hair, and which will facilitate distribution of the hair upon the curler. My method is characterized by the fact that the curler is positioned upon the protector during the entire winding operation, and in that the strand is wound beginning with that portion of the strand nearest the protector, and winding toward the tip of the strand, so that the tip of the strand is outermost. However as distinguished from spiral waving, successive convolutions are placed upon top of each other.

Referring to the drawings:

Figure 1 is a side elevational view, in cross section, illustrating apparatus which can be utilized in conjunction with my method.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the retaining clip illustrated in Fig. 1, for securing the tip of the strand to the curler.

Fig. 3 is a side elevational detail showing the curler incorporated in the apparatus of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a plan view, illustrating clamping bars incorporated in the apparatus of Fig. 1, and which form a part of what can be termed a protector.

Fig. 5 is a plan view, showing a member made of rubber, which constitutes a part of my protector.

Fig. 6 is a cross sectional view, illustrating the clutching means incorporated in conjunction with the curler.

Fig. 7 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line 7-7 of Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a side elevational view, illustrating a tool such as is suitable for use in conjunction with my method.

Fig. 9 is a front view of the tool illustrated in Fig. 8.

Fig. 10 is a plan view, showing my protector applied to a strand of hair, and illustrating the tool of Figs. 8 and 9 in position for commencing a winding operation.

Figs. 11 to 1'7 inclusive, illustrate successively different steps taken in carrying out my method, to completely wind the strand of hair upon a curler, and to secure the tip of the strand with respect to the curler.

Fig. 18 is an end view, partly in cross section, showing a heater applied to the wound hair, for the final heating operation.

Fig. 19 is a side elevational view, illustrating a modified form of device for retaining the wound hair upon a curler.

Fig. 20 is an end view of the device illustrated in Fig. 19.

Fig. 21 is a side elevational view, illustrating the manner in which the device of Figs. 19 and 20 is employed to retain the coiled hair.

In carrying out my method I utilize a protector of the type which is adapted to be clamped upon a flattened strand of hair, adjacent the scalp. In conjunction with this protector, I utilize a curler which is adapted to be mounted upon a protector, likewise parallel to the scalp. As will be presently explained, during the course of my method, after the protector has been 105 clamped upon the strand of hair and the curler positioned upon the protector, the strand is wound upon the curler beginning with that por tion of the strand. nearest the protector, and winding toward the tip of the strand. During 110 this winding operation successive convolutions of the hair are passed thru a part in the strand.

My method will be described in detail after a description of the apparatus illustrated in the drawings. Thus referring to Fig. 1, the apparatus shown therein consists of a protector 10, a curler 11, and a device 12 which is utilized for securing the tip of the strand with respect to the curler 11. While various types of protectors can. be utilized, the construction illustrated is similar to that disclosed in copending application Ser. No. 635,470, filed September 30, 1932, in the name of Ralph M. Keele. It is formed of two puts, illustrated in detail in Figs. 4 and 5. Referring first to Figure 4, I have shown clamping means comprising a pair of rigid clamping bars 13 and 14. One end of clamping bar 14 is provided with offset links 16, which has a pivotal connection 17 with one end of bar 13. The other end of bar 13 is provided with a pivotal connection 18 with links 19. A cam latching lever 21 is pivotally connected to links 19, and is adapted to engage with a hook-shaped end portion 22 formed on bar 14. The sides and inner opposed'edges of bars 13 and 14 can be covered by members 23 (Figs. 4 and 18) made of suitable. material such as wood.

That part of the protector illustrated in detail in Fig. 5, and which is preferably made entirely of resilient rubber, consists of an upstanding portion 24, provided with a longitudinal slot 26, and adapted to be placed between the clamping bars 13 and 14. Formed integral with portion 24, there is a laterally extending skirt 27, adapted to underlie clamping bars 13 and 14, and which is provided with a lower surfacing 30 of felt or like material. When a strand of hair is positioned within slot 26, and portion 24 compressed by the clamping bars 13 and 14, the strand is effectively gripped, and a seal is formed against passage of hot vapor.

The particular form of curler 11 illustrated is provided with a squared stud 29 projecting from its one end. This stud is associated with clutching means, whereby it is rotatable in only one direction with respect to the body of the curler. For example as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, stud 29 is formed upon one end of a shaft 31. Shaft 31 is is socketed within one end of the body of curler 11, and has its inner end connected to a helicoidal spring 32. Spring 32 is fitted within a bore 33 formed in the body of the curler. Shaft 31 is retained in proper position by means of a keeper wire 34. When stud 29 is rotated in one direction with respect to the body of the curler, there is a tendency for spring 32 to be wound up, and thus it is permitted to turn within bore 33. However when rotation in the opposite direction is attempted, spring 32 by virtue of friction against the periphery of bore 33, tends to expand, thus-forming a locking engagement and preventing rotation of stud 29. Projecting from the other end of the body of the curler, here is a pin 36, provided with a head 37 which is squared or otherwise formed to facilitate engagement with a wrench or other turning tool.

In order to mount the curler 11 in proper positionupon the protector 10, link 16 is provided with an upstanding post or tab 38. Links 19 are also provided with a similar upstanding post or tab 39. Posts 38 and 39 are provided with slots 41, to receive the square stud 29 and pin 36 of the curler. Obviously when the curler is positioned upon the protector illustrated in Fig. 1, it may be rotated in only one direction.

The securing device illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 may be of simple construction, and as illustrated comprises an elongated bar 43, having end portions 44 formed U-shaped. In other words the end portions 44 form spaced fingers 46, which are resilient, so that they can be clipped upon the curler 11.

The tool of Figs. 8 and 9, which I prefer to utilize in carrying out my method, has been dis- 7 closed and claimed in cop'ending application Ser. No. 627,826. Briefly, this tool consists of ablade 47, secured to a suitable handle 48. Blade 47 is bent to form a curved portion 49. Cooperating with and adjacent to blade 47, there is a second blade 51, which is likewise bent to form a curved portion 52 and which has its outer end pointed'to form a nose portion 53. Immediately behind nose portion 53, the second blade member 52 is cut away to form a hair receiving recess 54. Blade member 51 is pivotally connected to the blade 47, by suitable means such as pin 56, and is biased toward closed position by spring 57. By means of a handle 58 secured toblade member 51, this member can be swung out to one side of the main blade 47. The extremity of blade 47 is cut away to form a hook-shaped finger 59, which serves normally to close the recess 54, and thus retain any hair which may be positioned within the same. Lug 60 serves as a stop to limit movement of member 51 toward closed position. When the tool is opened, by pressing lever 58, the parts occupy a position such as illustrated in Fig. 12, to permit positioning of a hair strand within the recess 54.

To carry out my method by the use of apparatus such as has been described, the first operation is to segregate the strand of hair to be waved, after which the protector 10 is clamped upon the hair strand adjacent the hair scalp. With the particular type of protector illustrated this can be accomplished by first positioning the rubber part illustrated in Fig. 5 upon the scalp, with the strand extending thru slot 26, after which portion 24' is engaged by the clamping means of Fig. 4. The flattened strand of hair is now securely gripped near' the roots of the hair, with the protector extend'ng parallel and adjacent to the scalp. At this time subsequent steps of my method are somewhat facilitated it the hair is distributed in slot 26, to afford a central part in the strand. In other words the strand is arranged in two substantially equal portions, which are spaced by a gap midway of the longitudinal slot 26. The curler 11 is now placed upon the protector, and the winding operation commenced. To carry out this winding, the hair strand is first laid over curler 11 as shown in Fig. 10. The nose portion 53 of the tool illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9, is now advanced by the operator thru that portion of the strand lying between the curler and the protector, and thru the space between the curler and the protector. If the strand has not previously been d'stributed in two portions along the longitudinal slot 26 as has been previously described, the thrusting of the tool thru the strand will serve to part the same. If a part has already been formed, then the part may be spread or somewhat widened by thrusting thru the tool. The position of the tool after it has been thrust thru the strand, is illustrated in Fig. 11. The operator now opens the tool by pressing lever 58. This open position of the tool is illustrated in Fig. 12. The operator now engages the entire strand within recess 54, and permits the tool to close, as illustrated in Fig. 13. The tool is now retracted to the position illustrated in Fig. 14, thus causing the strand to be pulled through the space between the curler and protector, and thru the part in the strand. One complete loop has now been placed upon the curler. The strand is now again laid over top of the curler, and the tool again thrust thru the part and engaged with the strand. In Fig. 15, I have shown the tool engaged with the strand and being thrust thru the part, and in Fig. 16 I have shown the tool in retracted position to form a second complete loop of hair about the curler. These operations are then continued until substantially the entire strand has been wound upon the curler. It will be noted that while the convolutions of hair upon the curler are placed one upon top of the other, the winding proceeds from that portion of the strand nearest the protector, and progresses toward the tip of the strand. After substantially all of the strand has been wound upon the curler, the tip of the strand is secured with respect to the curler, by means of the securing device 12. The ends or" this device are slipped over the curler 11, to form a frictional engagement, and to cause the intermediate portion of bar 43 to be pressed with considerable pressure against the wound hair.

In carrying out the Winding as described above, it is preferable to wrap the strand with a fair degree of tension. During the wrapping operation it is possible for the operator to use the fingers of one hand to steady the curler or protector, and thus prevent unpleasant pull being transmitted to the scalp. After the winding has been completed, a further degree of tension can be applied to the wound hair by turning of the curler in one direction with respect to the protector, and also by pull exerted upon the tip of the strand.

Assuming that the winding operation has been completed, and that the hair is properly tensioned upon the curler, the next operation is to apply heat to the wound hair, in order to lend permanency to the wave. Thus as illustrated in Fig. 18, a pad 62 of suitable absorbent material, such as flannel, is moistened with a suitable waving solution, and placed over the wound hair. Over this pad there is then positioned a suitable heater 63. After the heating operation, it is a relatively simple matter to remove the wound hair from the curler, and to remove the protector from the strand.

In the particular apparatus illustrated it has been pointed out that the curler is detachable with respect to the protector, and is rotatable in one direction. It is possible however to utilize my method with a curler which is so mounted with respect to the protector, as not to be rotatable in one direction.

In Figs. 19-21, I have shown a modified type of securing device which may be turned after being applied to the wound hair, to effect further tens'on. In this case the securing device is in the form of a clip formed by the curved elements '71 and 72 connected together by hinge 73. A suitable spring is incorporated in hinge '72, so that elements 71 and 72 are urged together. Element 72 has one of its longitudinal edges provided with a row of comb teeth '74. The inner faces of elements 71 and '72 are preferably lined with fabric or like material which will afiord considerable friction against the hair. In utilizing this modified securing device, after the hair has been wrapped upon the curler, the device is clipped upon the wound hair intermediate the ends of the curler, as shown in Fig. 21. To tension the hair the operator turns the securing device about the curler, while manually pressing the two elements 71 and 72 together. Since the device is relatively short compared to the length of the curler it can be rotated thru the part in the hair strand, until the desired degree of tension is attained. Once-the desired tension issecured, it will be maintained as long as the device remains in place. Comb teeth 74 aid in securing proper tension, and at the same time insure proper distribution of the hairs in the last convolutons o! the wrap.

I claim:

1. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler, the steps of parting a fiattened strand of hair near the scalp, and then winding substantially the entire strand in successive loops upon the curler with each loop passing thru the part 2. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler, the steps of parting a flattened strand of hair near the scalp, and then winding substantially the entire strand in successive loops upon the curler with each loop passing thru the part, and then maintaining the wound hair under tension while the heat is applied.

3. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler and a protector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair, the step of clamping the protector upon a flattened strand of hair parallel to the scalp, positioning the curler upon the protector, and then winding substantially the entire strand of hair upon the curler beginning with that portion of the strand nearest the protector and winding toward the tip of the strand.

4. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler and a protector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair, the step of clamping the protector upon a flattened strand of hair parallel to the scalp, positioning the curler upon the protector and likewise parallel to the scalp, winding substantially the entire strand of hair upon the curler beginning with that portion of the strand nearest the protector and winding toward the tip of the strand, and then maintaining the wound hair under tension while heat is applied.

5. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler and a protector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair, the steps of clamping the protector upon a flattened strand of hair parallel to the scalp, positioning the curler upon the protector, causing the strand of hair to be parted at a point between the protector and the curler, and then winding substantially the entire strand in successive loops upon the curler with each loop passing thru the part.

6. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler, the steps of parting a flattened strand of hair near the scalp, winding substantially the entire strand in successive loops upon the curler with each loop passing thru the part, and then securing the tip of the strand with respect to the curler.

'7. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler and a protector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair, the steps of clamping the protector upon a flattened strand of hair parallel to the scalp, positioning the curler upon the protector likewise parallel to the scalp, causing the strand to be parted at a point adjacent to the protector, winding substantially the entire strand in successive loops upon the curler with each loop passing thru the part, securing the tip of the strand with respect to the curler, and then turning the curler in one direction with respect to the protector to tension the wound strand.

8. In apparatus of the character described for waving hair, a protector adapted to be clamped upon a flattened strand of hair adjacent the scalp,

an elongated curler adapted to be mounted upon the protector and likewise parallel to the scalp, whereby the flattened strand may be wound upon the curler in such a manner that successive convolutions of the strand upon the curler pass thru a part in the strand, and so that the tip of the strand is outermost with respect to the wound hair, and means mounted upon the curler for securing the tip of the strand.

9. In apparatus of the character described for waving hair, an elongated curler adapted to be disposed parallel to the scalp, whereby a flattened strand of hair may be wound upon the curler in such a manner that successive convolutions of the strand upon the curler pass thru a part in the strand, and so that the tip 01' the strand is outermost with respect to the wound hair, and means for retaining the tip of the strand with respect to the curler, said means comprising two curved hair embracing parts hingedly connected together.

10. In apparatus of the character described for waving hair, an elongated curler adapted to bedisposed parallel to the scalp, whereby a flattened strand of hair may be wound upon the curler in such a manner that successive convolutions of the strand upon the curler pass thru a part in the strand, and so that the tip of the strand is outermost with respect to the wound hair, and means for retaining the tip of the strand with respect to the curler, said means comprising two curved hair embracing parts hingedly connected together, 'oneoi' said parts being provided with hair engaging teeth.

WILLIAM H. H. DAVIS.

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