US1918946A - Moccasin - Google Patents

Description

July 18, 1933. J. J. WHITE 1,918,946

MOCCASIN Filed Jan. 5, 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet l J. J. WHITE July 18, 1933.

MOCCASIN Filed Jan. 5. 1931 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 1471 75h72 if o. f n Je ferred 'embodiment of the invention, to pro-- l.101m J. WHITE,

Patented July 18, 1933 UNITD STATES PivrsN'r orrlcr-il OFKCHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOB TO THE FLOBBHEIH SHOE O0., l'

CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A. CORPORATION 0F ILLINOIS MOCCASIN' Application med January 5, 1931. Serial No. 506,767.

'shoe from the toe thereofto a point at the -breast of the heel or adjacent it.

The improved method of manufacturing the moccasin ermits the vamp to be molded 0n a last and ave the edges described above overlapfeach other 1n such manner that exi cessmaterial can be cut away by a single stroke of a cutting tool. The improved method makes it unnecessary, in the previde seams extending laterally from the substantially central seam descrlbed above.

A moccasin constructed b vpracticing the improved method is shape y and durable, andthe material from which it is formed does not gather in bunches, etc., to annoy the wearer. i

The improved method effects a saving in labor. PartA of the saving is due to the fact that the vamp is easily, given the correct size and shape without cutting blanks therefor to the exact size and shape. The excess material is simply cut awayprior to the sewin operation.

ther ob'ects and advantages of the invention will become apparent as the following detailed description progresses, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, wherein:

e Fi urel is a side elevation of a moccasin whic embodies the invention.

Fig, 2 is a section taken on line 2-2 of Fi I. 'ig. 3 is asection taken on line 3 3 of Fi .1. liig. 4 is a section taken on line 4--4 of i 5 is a sideelevation of the u per porl l 8 e P yinner surface o the vamp.

tion of the moccasin before the sole is attached thereto. l Fig.r 6 is a bottom plan view of the upper portion shown in Fig. 5. l Y

Fig. 7 is a bottom plan View of the upper portion of the moccasin as it Iappearsl uponva lastbefore it has been completed.

Flg. 8 is an elevation of a plug which is placedwithin the moccasin at the front end thereof to cover a relativel small opening left in the bottom portion o the vam'p.

Y Fig. 9 is a blank from which the vamp for' the improved moccasin is formed. y

Figs. 10 and 11 are the blanks fromy which the quarters of the improved moccasin are formed, and

Fig. 12 is a blank from which the front of the improved moccasin is formed. t

Referring to the drawings wherein ay preferred form of the invention Ais illustrated, it will be noted that the moccasin comprises a vamp A; quarters B and B,;.a `foxing pon' tion C secured to the uarters B and B; a toe cap D; a leather so e E a sole E formed of crepe rubber; a plug an inner sole member H, and a tongue J which is to the rear edge of thefront D.;

Referring to F1gs. ,1` to f6 inclusive, it will be noted that the toe cap is secured toy the 'vam A by stitches 15, which extend throu h `a'fo ,ded edge of the vamp. The edges ofte vamp 'at the bottom of the shoe abut each other' 'and are secured to each other by stitches 16 which may be made by a sewing machine, just as the stitches may beA made by anewing' machine.I The quarters B and VB are secured to the rear edges ofthe vamp A by machine stitches 17 the rear edges of the yquarters being secured tothe front ed es o the foxing portion C by machine sti es 1 y p from leather and secured Ato thefoxing portion C and the quarters B yand B by any suitable means, such as nails 20 (see Fig. 6). The leather sole E is securedto the ,upper portion of the moccasin by machine stitches v21, which 'also extend through the plug G,

Athe plug G bein preferably cemented to the secured iIhe inner sole H is preferably formed- Referring to Fig. 9, wherein a blank for the vamp A is shown, it will be noted that the blank 25 is rovided with an excess of material in the orm of flaps 26 which are spaced from each other by a relatively wide notch 27 cut in the blank. The cut forming the bottom of the notch 27 extends a short distance into both of the flaps 26, as indicated at 28. Disposed opposite the notch 27 on the other side of the blank 25 is an arcuate edge 29 to which the forward edge 30 of the front is sewed, the lateral edges of the toe cap D being sewed to edges 31 of the blank 25, which edges 31 extend substantially tangentially from the arcuate edge 29. he stitches 15 which secure the toe cap D to the vamp A extend along the edges 29 and 31 between two clits or sl1ts 33 made in the blank 25, this construction being employed to provide a folded edge upon the vamp where it meets the front D.

In Figs. 10 and 11, blanks 35 and 36 for forming the quarters B and B', respectively, are shown. The forward edges 35a and 36a are secured to the rear edges 25a of the blank 25 by the stitches 17, the back edges 35o and 366 of the blanks 35 and 36 being secured to the heel portion C by the stitches 18.

In practicing the improved method, the blank 25 of the vamp A is stitched to the front D and to the blanks 35 and 36 which form the quarters B and B', the heel portion C being secured to the rear edges of the quarters as described above. The inner sole member H is then tacked to a last 40 to form the heel-seat of the moccasin (see Fig. -7) and the assembled front, assembled quarters and foxing are drawn over the last 40, these assembled parts being in a wet condition. The assembled structure is molded over, or shaped to the last, as illustrated in Fig. 7, so that the flap portions 26 of the vamp A overlap each other. The.vamp is then secured in this positionto the last 40 by tacks 41, or the equivalent and permitted to remain in this positionv until it has dried. A knife or any other suitable cutting tool is then drawn through the overlapping flaps 26 along a line extending longitudinally of the moccasin and, more or less, `centrally thereof to provide the abutting edges which are subsequently secured to each other by the stitches 16, described above. The foxing portion` is tacked tothe heel-seat or inner sole member H by the tacks or nails 20. After the upper portion of the moccasin has been removed from the lastk 40, the plug G is cemented to the inner surface of the vamp A to cover a relatively small aperture 4.3 which appears at the front end of the seam formed by the stitches 16 see Fig. 6). The leather sole E may then e secured to the upper portion of the moccasin by the stitches 21 after which the sole F is secured to the leather sole E.

It will be readily understood by those skilled in the art that the invention is not limited :to the use of a foxing member C of the type shown in the drawings, as the quarters may be made to extend around the heel of the shoe, or an other suitable construction may be emp oyed. It is also to be understood that any suitable sole may be employed and that the invention is limited to the structure which is shown only to the extent indicated in the appended claims.

Moccasins embodying the invention may 'bemanufactured relatively inexpensively as it is not necessary to sew seams therein by hand, although some or all of the seams may be sewed by hand if it is so desired. The

improved construction of the vamp insures.

that the moccasinwill retain its shape and that the moccasin will be pleasing in appearance at all times. f

While the plug G is shown as a relatively short member for covering the aperture 43 left at the forward end of the seam formed by the stitches v16, it will be readily understood that it may be made to extend substanially the entire length and width of the shoe, or, if it is so desired, it may be made of such length that it will cover the entire seam formed in the bottom of the vam As explained above, the plug G is re erably secured to the vamp by the stitc es 21, as well as by cement.

While I have shown and described certain embodiments of my invention, it is to be understood that it is capable of many modifications. Changes, therefore, in the construction and arrangement may be made Without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as disclosed in the appended claims, inwhich it is my intention to claim all novelty inherent in my invention as broadly as possible, in view of the prior art.

What I regard as new, and desire to seting through said overlapping portions tov form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said edges to each other to form a seam.

2. A method of' forming a moocasin, which method comprises employing a vamp blank having excess material therein, folding the blank over a last in suchmanner that the excess material forms overlapping portions extending along the bottom of the vamp, cutting through said overlapping portions while the blank is on said last to form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said edges to each other to form a seam.

3. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing a vamp blank having excess material therein, folding the vamp blank over a last in such manner that the excess material forms overlapping portions extending along the bottom of the vamp, cutting through at least one of said overlapping portions to form edges extending adjacent each other in the vamp, and securing said edges to each other to form a seam.

4. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing a vamp blank having excess material therein, folding the vamp blank over a last in such manner that the excess material forms overlapping portions extending along the bottom of the vamp, cutting through said overlapping portions to form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said edges to each other to form a seam.

5. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing a vamp blank having excess material therein, assembling said vamp blank with a toe cap and quarters, shaping the assembled structure over a last in such manner that the excess material of the vamp blank fgrms overlapping portions extending along the bottom ot' the vamp, cutting through said overlapping portions to form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said edges to each other.

6. A method of forming a inoccasin, which method comprises employing a vamp blank having excess material therein, securing said vamp blank to a toe cap and quarters, shaping the assembled structure in a Wet condition over a last in such manner that the excess material forms overlapping portions extending along the bottom of the vamp, tacking said vamp to said last while it is wet to hold said overlapping portions in their overlapping condition until the assembled structure is dry. cutting through said overlapping portions to form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing,r said abutting edges to each other.

7. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing a vamp blank having excess material therein, folding the vamp blank over a last in such manner that the excess material forms overlapping portions, cutting through said overlapping portions to form abutting edges in the vamp, securing said edges to each other to form a seam extending substantially longitudinally at the bottom of the vamp, and securing a plug to the inner surface of said vamp to cover the forward end of` said seam.

8. A moccasin comprising a vamp having a seam in the bottom thereof, which seam comprises two edges of the vamp stitched to each other to form a seam extending from the toe to the instep, and a plug secured to the inner side of said vamp at the forward end of said seam.

9. A method of forming a moccasin, which method comprises employing a vamp blank having excess material therein, securing said vamp blank to a front and quarters, shaping the assembled structure in a Wet condition over a last in such manner that the excess material forms over-lappin portions extending along the bottom o the vamp, securing said vamp to said last while it is wet to hold said over-lapping portions in their over-lapping condition until the assembled structure is dry, cutting throughat least one of said over-lapping portions to form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said abutting edges to each other.

10. A method of forming a AInoccasin, which method comprises forming a vamp blank having excess material therein, shaping said vamp blank in a Wet condition over a ast in such manner that the excess material forms over-lapping portions extending along the bottom of the vamp, securing said vamp to said last While it is Wet to hold said over-lapping portions in their over-lapping condition until the vamp is dry, cutting through said over-lapping por tions to form abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said abutting edges to each other.

11. A method of forming a inoccasin, which method comprises forming a vamp blank having excess material therein, shaping said vamp blank in a Wet condition over a last in such manner that the excess material forms over-lapping portions extending along the bottom ofthe vamp, securing said vamp to said last while it is Wet to hold said over-lapping portions in their over-lapping condition until the vamp is dry, cutting through atleast one of said over-lapping portions to form 'abutting edges in the vamp, and securing said abutting edges to each other.

12. A method of formin a moccasin, which method comprises emp oying a vamp blank having excess material therein, securing said vamp blank to a front `and quarters. shaping the assembled struct-ure in a wet condition over a last in such manner that the excess material forms over-lapping portions ext-ending longitudinally and substantially centrally along the bottom of the vamp` securing said vamp to said last while it is wet to hold said over-lapping portions in their overlapping condition until the assembled structure is dry, cutting through said over-lapping portions to form abutting edges in the vamp` and sawing said abutting edges to each other.

JOHN J. WHITE.

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