US1917177A - Collar - Google Patents

Description

July 4, 1933. A. WQLF` 1,917,177

COLLAR Filedl Nov. 14, 1931 IN VEN TOR.

ToRNEYS.

Patented July 4, i933 Unia ABRAHAM WoLr, or New Yoan,

N. Y., essreNon To APOLLO snrm: COMPANY; OF NNW YORK, N. Y.'

COLLAR Application filed November 1.4, 1931.k Serial No. 575,059.

This invention relates to apparel and more particularlyto a collar of the attached type. v A collar of the attached' type is usually formed withwings and it has been found that attached collars as nor.T constructed have a tendency` to curl. Tn order'to overcome thisY some collars are formed with pockets in the seam along the forward edges of the vwing to receivestiffening stays. This has not been found satisfactory as the `stays must be removed before a' shirt 'is laundered with the result that the stays are liable to be Vmis-- placed whennot in use or a'person is liable to-overlook applying the stays. lf-'the stays are left in the; collar when theshirt is sent to a laundry the stays become bentv or warped and no longer serve their function in a Ysatisfactory manner.-

In otherinstances, stays are inserted into marginal seams during manufacture of the collars and remain'there permanently. This is equally unsatisfactoryv as the stays are permanently applied to the collars and become bent and warped during laundering` of ashirt to such aneXtent that they donot function in the desired manner. I

Therefore,` one objectief the invention is to provide thecollar with areinforcement for its wings which is formed of fabric and is sewed into the collar along marginal portions ofthe wings thereby becoming a p'ermanent portionof the collar.

Another object ofthe invention is to so form the reinforcement that it rwill stiifenv not only the forward ledge portion of a collar wingbut `also the lower edge portion of 'the wing and thereby very effectively brace the wing and prevent it from curling.

Another object of the invention is to so shape the reinforcement that when it is applied during manufacture vof a collar it will not interfere with easy turning of the collar.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawing,` wherein Figurel is a view showing the manner in which the reinforcement is applied during manufacture of the collar.

Figure 2 is a sectional View taken along the ine 2 2 of Figure l.

Figure 8 is a sectional view taken longitudinally of the collar along the line 3f?) of Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a view in elevation showing the collar after it has been turned.

Figure 5 is an enlarged sectional view take through the turned collar along the line 5 5 of Figure 4. v Y Y Figure 6 isa'view similar to Figure 5 taken along the line 6 6 of Figure 7. v

Figure Z is a view in elevation of the finished collar, and

Figure 8 is a perspective view of the reinforcement.

vThe improved collar constituting the subject matter of this invention is of the soft type permanently attachedl to a shirt and consists of'a plurality of plies indicated by the letters 0;, b and o, the plies a and o being the top or outer plies and the ply o being an intermediate ply or lining. The lining or intermediate ply is formed of a stiff fabric of the type usually employed for this purpose land the outer plies may be formed of broadclothor any other soft material desired. These plies are all of the same shape and when the plies are initiallyv assembled the top plies a and Z2 are placed against each other and then set in place against one face of the liningfor intermediate ply as clearllyshown in Figures l and 2. The assembled plies arethen sewed together by a line of stitching which extends in spaced parallel relation to the lower edge of the assembled blanks and end edges thereof.

The wing formed at each end of the collar and indicated in general by the numeral l is to have its marginal portions reinforced to prevent curling and in order to do so there has been provided a reinforcing member 2 which may be formed of fabric of the same type used for the lining, or any other fabric that will tale stitching. This reinforcing member is substantially V-shap-ed and has arms ,3 and 4 extending rearwardly in diverging-relation to each other and conforming to the taper of the collar wing. The forward end of the reinforcing member is cut to form the pointed end 5 and the arm 4 also has a pointed rear end 6. The rear end of the arm 3 is cut to form an inwardly tapered notch or recess 7. lt will be noted that the apex of the tapered end is disposed midway the width of the arm i and the inner end of the notch 7 terminates midway the width of the arm 3. 'A herefore, when the reinforcing member is applied to the assembled blank and placed against the lining c the stitching 8 which holds the blanks together may extend axially of the arm 3 and i and intersect converging edges of the tapered ends of the arms. While the ends 6 and 7 have been shown one tapered and the other recessed, it will be understood that both may be tapered or recessed or they may be cut square.

This reinforcement is so located upon the lining that the apex of its tapered end 5 is spaced rearwardly from the point of the wing 1 of the collar and the stitching extends forwardly beyond the front endk of the rein-1 forcement. Therefore, the reinforcement will not interfere with turning of the assembled plies. llVhen this collar is turned, it is folded along the line of stitching and the lining or intermediate ply c will be located between the vtop plies a and b as shown in Figure 5. Referring to this figure, it will also be seen that the reinforcement will be located within folded marginal portions of the lining andthat each arm will be folded upon itself along its longitudinal center. Therefore, the arms of the reinforcement will be of double thickness and add materially to the stiffness.

of the reinforcen'xent'and very effectively prevent wings of a collar from curling.

The fact that the pointed ends V5 of the reinforcements terminate in spaced relation to the pointed ends of the wings will eliminate danger of wrinkles being formed in the pointed ends of the wings. After the assembled blanks or plies have been turned a fin- Iishing seam 9 extending about margins of the collar is completed by aline of final stitching 10 and a vcollar will be formed having the appearance of a soft collar of a conventional construction but the wings will be reinforced by fabric stays embedded in marginal portions of the wings as a permanent portion of the collar and serving very effectively to prevent curling. The fact that the free ends of the arms are cut as shown at 6 and 7 will cause these arms when :folded to have diagonally extending edges ll and l2 at their rear ends-and the collar will not be marred by ridges formed at ends of the arms 3 and 4 when the collar is ironed.

While the reinforcement has been shown V-shape'd and formed of a single piece of fabric, it will be understood that it may consist of a pair of fabric strips sewed or otherwise joined together at their converging ends either before or during manufacture of the collar.

From the foregoing description of the construction of my improved invention, the operation thereof and the method of applying the same to use will be readily understood. It will be seen that ly have provided a. simple, inexpensive and efficient means for carrying out the objects of the invention.

lVhile l have particularly described the elements best adapted to perform the functions set forth, it is obvious that various changes in form, proportion and in the minor details of constructionpmay be resorted to without departing from the spirit or sacrificing any of the principles of the invention.

Having thus described the invention what is claimed is:

1. A. soft collar having end portions extended to form wings tapered towards their free ends, the collarbeing provided with a bordering seam having-portions extending along the lower edges and front edges of the wings, and fabric stays for said wings, each sta-y consisting of a V-shaped strip of fabric conforming to the taper of the wing and having arms disposed entirely within the seams 'along the front and lower edges of the wing, the arms having their converging ends integrally united and tapered from opposite side edges to a point spaced from the point of the wing and being folded along their longitudinal centers to provide astay of double thickness and rearends of the folded arms being formed withf diagonally ex-y tending edges. Y Y f l 2. A .soft collar 4having end .portions extended to form wings, said collar consisting I of outer plies, and a reinforcement for each wing to prevent curling, each reinforcement consisting of a V-shaped strip of fabric placed against the wing-forming portion with its arms extending along marginal portions of the wing and intersecting adjacent the front end thereof, a line of stitching extending along marginal portions 'of the plies and through arms of the reinforcement axially thereof to secure the plies and reinforcements together, the assembled plies and reinforcements being turned coincident with the line-of stitching to dispose the reinforcements in a folded condition between folded marginal portions of the plies, and a line of stitching extending through the turned plies to form a bordering seam for the collar completely enclosing the reinforcement. i

In testimony whereof I affix` my signature.

ABRAHAM woLr.

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