US1912855A

US1912855A - Sewing machine

Info

Publication number: US1912855A
Application number: US377258A
Authority: US
Inventors: William N Parkes
Original assignee: Singer Co
Current assignee: Singer Co
Priority date: 1929-07-10
Filing date: 1929-07-10
Publication date: 1933-06-06
Anticipated expiration: 1950-06-06

Description

June 6, 1933. I w. N, PARKES 1,912,855

SEWING MACHINE Filed July 10, 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 lllllllllllllli I ll mum IN V EN TOR.

my; 2L.

W. N. PARKES SEWING MACHINE June 6, 1933.

Filed July 10, 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 IN V EN TOR.

W. N. PARKES Jun 6, 1933.

SEWING MACHINE 7 Filed July 10, 1929 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 IN V EN TOR.

mu V 112; 2L. PM

June 6, 1933.

W. N. PARKES SEWING MACHINE Filed 'July 10, 1929 a 53 ml 5 P J m 7' 's e Q I r- I m INVENTOR.

5 Sheets-Sheet 4 Patented June 6, 1933 UNITED stares PATENT oFFicE WILLIAM N. PARKES, 0F BROOKLYN, NEXV YORK, ASSIG-NOR TO THE SINGER MANIT- FAGTURING COMPANY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y A CORPORATION OF NEW' JERSEY snwine MACHINE Application filed July 10,

This invention relates to lock stitch sewing machines. It is preferably herein illustrat- Vchines may be divided into three groups;

first, those that function to provide a loop of needle thread to be passed around a bobbin or mass of locking thread, and also function to take up thisloop,and finally function to draw it into a stitch; second,those that function to pass the saidloop around the bobbin or mass of locking thread, and third, those that function to move the work to locatcthe stitches.

The said first group ofparts is herein called the needle thread handling mechanism, and the parts of this mechanism may in turn be divided into three groups; first those that actuate the needle; second, those which are usually called collectively a take up device; and third, those which comprise the needle thread tension.

Applicant has made improvementsin the complete thread handling mechanism f a lock stitch sewing machine, and this ,im-

proved mechanism is hereinillustrated and described adapted for use in such a machine, and so much of the other parts of the machine is also herein illustrated and described, as .'t thought necessary for an understanding of the working ofthe improved thread handling mechanism, as a part of a complete machine. l

Specifically, applicant desires to protect by the patent he is seeking herein, the improvements he has made in the part of the needle thread handling mechanism which is called in the foregoing a take-up device, and he also wishes to protect the adaptation of the said improved device for use incooperation with the other parts of a lockstitch sewing machine.

As applicant remembers it there are three kinds of take-up devices in use of the character of his device namely, the cam and lever, the lever; and, the link and leverde- 50 vices. The construction, and the function 1929. Serial No. 377,258.

ing of applicants device isdifferent from lever is'provided with a usual eye for the needlethread, and the other end is provided with a sleeve bearing through which passes a bore, and by means of this bore this end of the lever is mounted directly on the said crank pin. connecting link is provided with a sleeve bearing that is mounted on the periphery of the said sleeve bearing of the take-up lever; and, the lower end of the said connecting link is mounted, in a usual way, on a bearing which is secured to the needle bar.

Here applicants take-up device differs from the usual devices in three important particulars. For example, first, the sleeve on ene end or" the take-up lever, and this end The upper end of the needle bar of the lever mounted directly on the said crank pin; second, the sleeve bearing of the upper end of the needle bar connecting link mounted on the said sleeve bearing of the take-up lever; and third, the axis of the bearing between the upper end of the said connecting link, and the crank pin, and the axis of the bearing between the take-up lever and the crank pin, both, concentric with the axis of the crank pin.

Another diflerence in applicants device, the take-up lever is mounted directly on the needle bar connecting link crank pilnand concentric with the axis of the said pinas before noted, but notwithstanding this, the

parts of the device are so constructed and located for action in cooperation with the rotary hook, that the take-up lever commences its take-up stroke at the proper time relative to the movement of the hook; that of the take-up guard plate.

is, the said take-up stroke commences just as the hook has carried the loop of needle thread one half around the bobbin case.

In the take-up devices of the said other machines, a spring, which is usually called a controller spring, is used to take care of the slack needle thread (that the take-up lever throws down) until the needle reaches the work in its downward movement. In applicants device fixed means which put no strain on the thread, function to take'care of the slack thread until, and a little after, the needle reaches the work.

In the operation of the usual take-up device, the said controller spring cooperates with' the take-up lever in the last part of its take-up movement, and, also cooperates with this lever in the setting of the stitch. In applicants device cam action means, which put no strain on the thread, cooperate with the take-up in performing the functions mentioned.

In applicants device, the means which cooperates with the take-up lever in the setting of the stitch, bring about a slower and more certain setting of the stitch, than do the takeup lever and the controller spring of the usual take-up lever, and from the slower setting of the stitch secured by applicants device, flows the advantages of higher speed, and better stitching.

The controller spring used in cooperation with the usual take-up is objectionable for various reasons, especially in high-speed machines. For example, if its tension is light enough to avoid putting too much strain on the thread, then its action is too slow and weak for the proper handling of the thread under high speed, and, on the other hand, if the tension is strong enough for this purpose under high speed, then it puts too' much strain on the thread, and this strain makes it necessary to have an objectionably strong pressure on the thread by the thread tension device. 7

Referring now to the drawings; Figure 1 is a front elevation, and Fig. 2 is a rear elevation of a machine embodying the invention. Fig. 3 is a top plan view of the front end of the machine.

Fig. l is a sectional view, on an enlarged scale, of the end of the overhanging arm, on lines 4l Fig. 3 looking in the direction of the arrows, with the parts in the position of the beginning of the setting of a stitch; and, Fig. 5 is a View of the face of the overhanging arm with the face plate removed, and with the parts also in the position of the beginning of the setting of a stitch.

Fig. 6 is a view illustrating the path of the thread carrying end of the take-up, relative to the combination slack thread control and stitch setting finger, and also relative to an incline or cam surface formed on the edge The path referred to in the foregoing is indicated by the dotted line in the said Fig. 6; this path is in a Vertical plane around a space that is herein called a field.

F i 6a is a detached perspective View of 1 the position of parts and of the needle thread at about the time the needle commences to enter the work; and also illustrating in dotted lines the position of the take-up at about the time its take-up action commences and in addition showing the needle thread loop half way around the hook which is the position the loop is in at about the time the said takeup action commences.

In the drawings 1 represents the overhanging arm portion, 2 the vertical portion, and 3 the bed of themachine; t represents the driving shaft (Fig. 8) which is rotated once to each stitch, 5 the hook shaft, and 6 the usual driving belt by means of which a one to one rotary motion is transmitted from the driving shaft to the hook shaft.

The numeral 7 represents the hook saddle, in which is journalled in a detachable hearing (not shown,) the forward end of the hook shaft; by usual means, (not shown) a two to one rotary movement is transmitted from the hook shaft to the hook 8 (see Fig. 9). In the bed of the machine is mounted, in a usual manner, a usual form of feeding mechanism (only partially shown) by means of which a feed dog 9 is operated.

The feed dog engages the work through usual feed dog slots in a needle plate 10 as will be understood from Fig. 9. In usual bearings, 11 and 12, (Fig. 5) is located a presser bar 13, which is depressed by a usual spring, not shown, and is lifted against the action of this spring by a usual presser bar lifter 14; a presser foot 15 is secured, by means of a screw 16, to the lower end of the presser bar.

In a bore which is formed through a bearing 17, is mounted the lower end of a needle bar 18, and in a bore 19, (Fig. 5) which is formed in a detachable bearing 20 is mounted the upper end of the needle bar, and the bearings and bar are'so disposed that the bar is adapted to reciprocate vertically. In the upper end of the bearing 20 is formed an oil well 21, and through the bottom of this well is formed a small way 22 for the passage of the oil to the needle bar hearing.

In the upper end of the needle bar is secured a small sharp pointed pin 23, which, when the needle bar is in its upper position,

in which position it is shown in Fig. 5, pro? i screen 28, which may be ofany suitable maused as a screen.

terial,in the present form of the invention, however, a piece of suitablywoven fabric is In the periphery of the bearing is formed a vertical groove 29, into which the extending end 30, of a part 31, is located. ;The part 31.

is rigidly clamped to the presser bar by a screw 32, and from this, it willbe understood, that the part- 31, holdsvthe presser bar from turning laterally on its vertical axis, and, at

the same time permitsit to be moved vertically. At the top of the bore19 is formeda small way33 which passes from the bore to the vertical. groove 29, and thereby the slight amount of oil required to keep the groove lubricated is permitted to pass to it.

. The oil well 21 is provided with oil absorb ent material 33, which, together with the construction of the parts, normally holds the oil from flowing out of the said oil well when the machine is not operating, but,when the machine is in operation however theaction of the needle bar, and the passing of the pin 23 bearing pin 35, on the outer end of which is mounted the upper end 36 of a depending link 37.. On the lower end of the link is formed a sleeve bearing 38 on which is pivoted a take? uplever 39, in the freeend of which there is formed an eye 39a; thesaid lever is held in place on the hearing by a screw 40. In the bearing pin is formed a bore 41,

in which is located oil absorbent material 42 in the upper side of the arm of the machine (Fig. 3) is formed an oil cup 43 which serves as a means for leading oil into the bore 41 of the pin 35. Longitudinally through the link 37 is formed a way 44, which at its lower end turns, as shown in Fig. 8, so as to serve as a means for the passage of oil from the bore 41, of the bearing pin 35 to the bearing 38 of the take-up lever 39. i

On the forward end of the driving shaft 4, of the machine, is secured a balancing part 45 which is provided with a crank pin 46 as shown in Fig. 8. The take-up lever 39 is provided at its inner end with a sleeve bearing 47, which is journalled on the crank pin 46, the pin at its outer end is reduced and threaded, and a nut 48, which is on this threaded end, and a washer 49, which is between the nut and the shoulder of the pin which is at the end of the said reduced portion, serves as a means for retaining the sleeve bearing of thetake-up on the crank pin.

To the needle bar 18 F g. 5) is secured, by means of a clamping screw 50-, a bearing pin 51 (Fig. 8) on which is journalled the lower end of a needle bar driving link 52; on theupper end of this link is formed a bearing 53, j ,whlch 1s mounted on the sleeve bearing 47 of the take-up lever, and is held in position thereon by the construction. ofthe parts as illustrated in Fig. 8.

The top of the arm of the machine is provided with a usual form of oil well which is herein generally designated as 54 (Figs. 3 and 4). This oil well is provided with oil absorbent material 55, and down wardly through thebottom of the well is formed a way 56; In the end of the driving shaft 4 is formed a bore or oil chamber 57, see Fig. 8, that extends from the forward end of the sha t to just beyond the pas sage 56, that extends downwardly from the oil well 54; and a plug screw 58, in a usual way, closes the end of the said bore 5'7. A bore 59 is formed from the periphery of the shaft 4 into the said oil chamber 57, and this bore 59 is located so that each time the shaft turns, it, the bore, registers with the way 56 and thereby the oil is permitted to flow from the oilwell 54 to the oil chamber 57.

In the crank pin 46 is formed a bore which serves as an oil chamber 60, that is provided with. oil absorbent material. 61, and is closed its inner end by a plug screw 62. A small vent hole 63 passes from the oil chamber through the center of the outer end of the crank pin as, shown in Fig. 8 and thereby permits air to escape from the chamber, andalso causes the oil to flow more freely into the chamber, and also out of it to the bearings it is designed to keep lubricated.

Near the outer end. of the oil chamber 57, (Fig. 8) a way 64 is formed, fromthe periphery of the said shaft 4 to the chamber, and through part 45 is formed a way 65 with which when the machine is operating,

the way64 regist rs once to each revolution of the said shaft.

From-the periphery of the crank pin 46 a way 66 is formed that extends into the oil chamber 60. This way 66 is located so that it registers with the way 65, and thereby a single way is provided for the passage of the oil from the way 64 to the oil chamber 60.

Ways 67, which pass from the oil chamber 60 to the periphery of the crank pin 46 serve to permit the oil to pass to the bearing between the sleeve 47 of the take-up lever and the crank pin, and ways 68 permit the oil to flow to the bearing between the upper end of the needle bar link and the sleeve bearing of the take-upxlever. i

Longitudinally through the needle bar connection link 52 is formed a way 69 by meansof which oil may flow from the bearing between the needle bar link and the sleeve of the take-up, to the bearing between the lower end of the link and the bearing pin 51. In the bearing pin 51 is formed longitudinally of the pin, a bore 70, in which is located oil absorbent material 71, and from the bore 70 there are formed ways 72 for the passage of the oil to the bore 70.

Tothe lower shaft 5 of the machine is seecured by usual means, an eccentric 7 3 (Figs. 1 and ,2), and by a usual connection (only partly shown), between this eccentric and a suitably mounted short vertically disposed shaft 74, the shaft is oscillated by the eccentric. To the top of the shaft 74 is secured, by a screw 75, (Fig. 9) an opener arm 76, the end of which engages an abutment 77, that is formed on a bobbin case 78 which is located in suitable bearings within the hook 8 of the machine. To the underside of the needle plate 10 is secured, by means of screws 79, a bobbin case stop 80, which is adapted to limit the reverse movement of the bobbin case by being in a position for the stop engaging part of the case to come in contact with it as indicated in dotted lines at 81, and the movement of the case, in the other direction, is limited by a small projection not shown, which projects downwardly from the needle plate and engages the case.

To the rear end of the driving shaft 4 is secured a belt wheel 82 by means of which power may be transmitted to the machine.

7 The mechanism of the machine is constructed to conform to the rotation of the driving shaft in the direction of the arrow on the belt wheel 82, and rom this it will be understood that when the machine is operating the hook 8 turns in the direction of the arrow which is on the hook.

In a bore that is formed in the front side of the arm of the machine is secured, by

means of a screw 88, the base of a needle thread tension device (see Figs. 5, 7, and 9). This device comprises a part that serves as a base, which said part has a reduced portion 84 that is located in said bore, and, a second reduced portion 85 which is threaded, and provided with a tension regulating thumb nut 86. Next to the said second reduced portion 85 is an enlarged portion 87, through which is formed a way 88 for the passage of the needle thread, and on the said base next to the enlarged portion 87, is formed, flange 89 that serves to determine the location of the base in the bore.

he construction of the enlarged portion of the tension base is such as to provide an incline, 90, which runs from near the outer end of the said enlarged portion to the way 88. The said enlarged portion of the base, is also constructed to provide an incline 91 which runs from near the flange 89 and terminates in an edge 92' that is near the incline 90.

On the enlarged portion 87 of the said tension base are located tension discs 93, and 94 (Figs. 5 and 7 and on the base next to the disc 94 is located a tension spring 95, the inner end of which contacts with the disc 94, and the outer end with the adjusting nut 86. On a hub 96 formed on the casting of the arm 1 of the machine is secured, by means of a screw 97, (Fig. 9) a thread guide and bearing ring 98, in which there is formed a slot 99 that runs from 100 (Fig. 5) to 101 Fig. 9.

Through the disc 93 is formed a hole through which passes the reduced end 102' of a tension release pin 103, that passes horizontally through a bore from the rear side of the arm of the machine to the tension disc 94, as will be understood from Figs. 2 and 7. On the presser bar 13 is suitably located tension release part 104 of usual construction, which is provided with a horizontally extending part 105 (Figs. 2 and 5). The part 105 is provided with a usual form of cam action part 106 that is adapted to engage the rear end of the tension release pin 103. The part 98 is provided with a key 107 (Fig. 1;, and into the edge of each of the

tension discs

94 and 93 is formed a notch into which the said key is located, and thereby the discs are held in place, as will be seen from Fig. 1.

When the tension device parts are in their normal place the slot 99 of the part 98 is in a line vertically which runs between the tension discs; and the edge 92 of the base part of the device is located in the hole which passes centrally through the tension disc 94, as will be understood from Figs. 5 and 7. From this it will be seen that in threading the tension device the thread is drawn into the slot 99 of the said part 98 and thereby between the tension discs, until the thread reaches the ends 100 and 101 ofthe slot, and that in passing to this position the thread engages the incline 91 and thereby pushes the tension disc 94 outwardly against the action of the tension spring, and this, together with the bending of the thread out into the hole that is in the center of the tension disc, permits the thread to pass into the way 88, after which the tension disc is moved back into its normal position by the action of the tension spring, in which position the edge 92 of the tension stud extends into the hole which passes centrally through the disc 94 and thereby the thread is retained in the way 88 of the stud.

This tension device may be called a combination thread guide, thread retainer, and tension device, for, in addition to performing the function of a tension device, it also performs the functions of a thread guide and thread retainer, and thereby the need for the use of the usual little thread guide and retainer is dispensed with, and is therefore ciiect on the needle thread.

preferably not usedby applicant in connection with his present invention.

On the upper portion of the front side of the arm of the machine is secured, by means of

screws

108 and 109, a take-up guard plate reason it is applied tothe incline 1100i, but, in this connectlon it is noted that this slack tl'iread control and stitch setting part produces more of a cam action on the thread than does the incline 110a.

The base 111 of the said slack thread 0011- trol and stitch setting part,is provided with threaded end 111a, that passes freely through a hole that is made through the plate 116; and the base of the said part is secured to the plate by a nut 111?) which firmly draws the base against the side i (a? the plate, as will be understood from Figs.

5 and 6a.. The body of the said slack thread control and stitch setting part has tapered portion 112 and'113, the portion 112 extends downwardly from the said base at an angle 3 he the vertlcal towards the frontof the ma-.

chine, and also at an angle to thevertical away from the plate 110. The tapered portion 113 extends from the portion 112 at an angle to the vertical towards the back P efthe machine, and also at an angle to the vertical away from the plate 110.

The numeral 115 represents the needle thread, which runs from the supply to and through thread guide holes 116 and 117 that are formed through a horizontal extending part of a pin 118, that has a threaded end, not shown, which is located in a tapped hole, not shown, in the top of the arm of the machine, and locked therein by a nut 119, asil- 3 lustrated in Fig. 1.

From the said guide pin the thread passes directly to the tension device, and from this device it passes to the take-up; the section of the thread that extends from the tension to the take-up isdesignated by numeral 120.

From the take-up the portion of the thread which is designated as 120a (Fig. 1) extends to a thread guide 121 the base of which is secured to the machine by a screw 122.

1 Theguide has a short portion 123 which extends horizontally from its base, and from this horlzontal portion the guide extends upwardly as shownin Fig. 1. Just below the horizontal portion 123 of the guide, a small projection 12 is formed on the arm of the machine, in this projection is formed a vertical groove, as indicated by dotted line, and in this groove theportion of theneedle thread just below the guide 121, is located. From the said groove the thread passes to a. guide 125, andfrom this guide it passes to a guide 126 that is formed in the end of the needle bar 18. The needlebar is provided with a usual needle, and from the guide 126, the said thread passes to the eye of this needle.

In the operation of the machine at the beginning of the giving of needle thread by the take-up, to provide a loop, for the hook to engage and pass around a bobbin, the thread carrying end 39a of the take-up lever and the needle thread, and the slack thread control and stitch setting finger, and the incline part 110a of the take-up guard, are relatively, about in the position illustrated in Fig. 6. This, it will be understood is also about the position these elements are in at the finishing of the setting ofa stitch.

At this pointthe movement of the needle downwardly has commenced, as Will be understood from Fig. 5, and at about the time the point of the needle is well into the goods the relative position of the elements mentioned in the preceeding paragraph are about as illustrated in full lines in Fig. 9. The way the thread in full lines in this figure is shown in engagement with the portion 112 of theslack thread control and stitch setting part, and with the incline or cam part 110a of the take-up guard plate illustrates how the slack thread is controlled. In this connection it will beobserved that the thread bends over the incline 110a as it passes to the part 123 of the guide 121, and that here the said incline and the guide 121 function to keep the thread loosely on the said control and the take-up has reached the position it is shown in, in dotted lines in this Fig. 9 which is its lowest position, the needle thread is located as indicated in dotted lines running from the take-up to the tension device, andthe needle thread loop has been passed one-half around the bobbin case as also indicated in dotted lines.

Further movement of the machine causes the hook to rapidly carry the loop of needle thread around to a point where the rapid taking up of the loop may commence. At this point the take-up brings the needle thread into engagement with the incline 110a of the guard plate, at about the point indicated by the number 128 Fig. 6, and sufthe work. The take-up moves much faster,

however. the thread 1s position ed on the finger ficient further action of the machine causes the take-up to move to the position of the beginning of the setting of the stitch, in which position it and the thread are shown in Fig. 4. The further movement of the machine to the point where the setting of the stitch is finished, brings the thread carrying end of the take-up and the needle thread which it carries to the position, relative to the said finger, and to the incline 110a of the guard plate, shown in Fig. 6.

From the foregoing, in connection with the working of the machine, itis desired that it be understood that the slack thread control and stitch setting finger, and the incline surface 110a of the take-up guard plate, function in connection with providing a loop, taking it up, controlling the slack thread and setting the stitch. And it is also desired that it be understood that the construction of the stitch setting finger, and its location relative to the movement of the take-up is such, that the finger begins to function as a'cast oif for the needle thread as soon as the setting of the stitch is finished, and therefore at about the time the parts are in the position illustrated in Fig. 6. At this time the needle may draw the extra thread from the finger as it 's required for the entrance of the needle in then the thread slides down the finger, and

therefore it, the take-up, normally functions to draw the needle thread from the finger.

At the finishing of the setting of the stitch so that it may also be freely drawn from the finger by the needle, and in this connection is noted that the needle functions, in combination with the take-up, to draw the thread from the finger to meet the requirement of the varying thicknesses of the work. The usual downward movement of the needle has commenced at the time of the finishing of the setting of the stitch, but at this time the needle is still a spaced distance above the work.

The distance referred to is such that the thread has become free to be drawn from the finger before the needle reaches the work of maximum thickness that the machine is adapted to sew, and therefore it will be understood that the rapid demand for thread for the loop, that commences at the time the eye of the needle rear-hes the top of the work, is

provided for.

Applicant also desires it to be understood that the needle thread handling mechanism, as illustrated and described herein, is a preferred form of his invention, that other forms 0t it may be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, and for this reason he sees not wish to be limited to the form he has selected for the purposes of this application.

Having now described my invention what I claim as new, and desire to protect by Letters Patent of the United States, is:

1. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a thread carrying needle, means whereby a section of thread leading to the needle is moved in a path around a field, and a fixed stitch setting finger which projects into the said path.

2. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a thread carrying needle, means for moving a section of thread leading to the needle in. a path around a field, and a fixed stitch setting finger so located that it projects into the path at an angle to the said field.

3. In a locl; stitch sewing machine, a thread carrying needle, a tension device from which the thread goes to the needle, means for moving a section of the thread intermediate the tension device and the needle in a path around a vertical field, and a fixed stitch setting finger which projects into said path at an angle to said vertical field.

4. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a thread carrying needle, a tension device from which the thread goes to the needle, means whereby a seztion of the thread intermediate the tension device and the needle is moved in a vertical plane around a field, a fixed stitch setting finger which has a base, the finger from its base to its end tapered and bent downward at a compound angle to the vertical, and the said means and stitch setting finge so located relatively that the thread in its movement around the said field comes into engagement with the finger before the beginning of the setting of a stitch.

5. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating thread carrying needle, an operating lever that has an end which is provided with a way through which the thread passes to the needle, the said lever so located that its said end moves in a vertical plane, a fixed stitch setting finger that has a base, the finger next to its base bent down wardly, and the finger so located relative to the lever that the section of the needle thread between the lever and the needle is drawn into engagement with the finger before the beginnin g of the setting of a stitch.

6. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating thread carrying needle, an operating lever that has an end which is provided with a way through which the thread passes to the needle, the said lever so located that its end moves in a vertical plane, a fixed stitch setting finger that has a base, the finger from its base to its end tapered, the finger next to its base bent downwardly, and

3 the finger so located relative to the lever that the section of the needle thread between the lever and the needle is drawn into engagement with the finger before the beginning ot the setting of a stitch.

7. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating thread carrying needle, a tension device from which the thread structionot the finger such that the thread remains in engagement with the finger until the needle reaches the work in the process of making a succeeding stitch.

8. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating needle,atension device,an

operating take-up lever that has an end which is provided with a way through which the section, of the thread that extends from. the tension device to the needle passes, a fixed take-up guard, a stitch setting and slack thread control finger that has a base, the said base detachably secured to the guard, the finger constructed so that it extends downwardly from its base at an angle to the plane in which the take-up lever operates, and the lever and the finger so located relatlvely that:

previous to the beginning of the setting of a stitch the lever brings the needle thread into engagement with the finger.

9. In a rotary hook lock stitch sewing machine, a thread. carrying needle, a take-up lever, the free end of the said lever provided. with a way through which the needle thread passes, means for operating the lever so that 1 1? its free end moves around a field, fixed means adapted to produce a cam action movement of the thread, and the saidmeans so located that as the lever moves to'its stitch setting position it drawsthe needle thread into ongagcment with the said means.

1 0. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a tliu'ead carrying vertically reciprocating necdlc, a needle thread guide suitably attached I to the machine, a lever that has a free end which is provided with a way through which the needle thread passes to the said thread guide, the end of the lever and of the guide so located relatively that the section of the needle thread from the end of the lever to the liguide is located at an angle relative to the vertical, means for operating the lever so that the said free end of it moves'in a vertical plane around a field and thereby carries the needle thread that passes through it around a field, a fixed stitch setting and. slack thread control finger, and the said finger so constructed andso located that a part of it projects into the field around which the said end of the lever carries a part of the section of needle thread that extends from the lever to the said guide.

11 In a lock stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating needle, a thread guide by which the needle thread passes as it goes to the needle, an operating lever that has an nendwhich is provided with a way through which the needle thread passes to the said guide, a fixed stitch setting and, slack thread control parthaving atapered elbow into engagement with which the said lever draws the thread previous to thebeginning of the setting of a stitch, and the said part and lever so located relatively that as the thread passes out of engagement with the said part it flows down on the side of the thread guide towards the lever. l

12. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating needle, a thread guide, a lever that has an end which is provided with a way from which the thread goes to the guide, micans for operating the lever so that its end moves around a field, a fixed stitch setting part, and the lever and the part so located relatively that in the movement of the lever the needle thread in the beginning of the setting of a stitch is drawn into engagement with the part. a a

13. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a stitch forming mechanism comprising a vertically reciprocating needle, a lever that has an end which is provided with a way from which the needle thread passes as it goes in the direction of the needle, means for operating the lever so that its end moves around a field, a fixed stitch setting and slack thread control part, and the said part and the lever so located relatively that at the finishing of the setting of a stitch the needle thread is in engagement with the part. i

14. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocating needle, a lever that has an end which is provided with a way through which theneedle thread passes as it goes in the direction of the needle, means for operating the lever so that its said end moves around F I ii a field, a fixed stitch setting and. slack thread control part into engagement with which the lever draws the needle thread before the beginning of the setting of a stitch and the position of the said part such relative to the that has an end which is provided with a I way through which the needle thread passes as it goes to the said thread guide, a takeup guard which is provided with an edge that it located at an angle to the vertical, the said guard detachably secured to a fixed part of the arm of the machine, a stitch setting and slack thread control part which is secured to the take-up guard, and these parts so constructed and operated that the slack thread which the. downward movement of the take-up lever produces is taken care 16. In a lock stitch sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a take-up device, afixed stitch setting and slack thread control part, a rotary hook that is provided with a bobbin case, a needle plate that is provided with a needle hole, means for restraining the bobbin case from moving with the hook, an opener device provided with an arm that engages the bobbin case, and these parts so located relatively that at the time the loop of needle thread is being drawn between the edge of the needle hole and the section of the bobbin thread that extends from the bobbin to the work the reverse movement of the opener arm has commenced and the needle thread has been drawn into engagement with the said stitch setting and slack thread control part.

17 In a lock stitch sewing machine, a reciprocating needle, a rotary hook which is provided with a. bobbin case, a needle plate which is provided with two bobbin case stops, an operating opener arm that is adapted to engage the bobbin case, a tension device, a take-up lever that has an end which is provided with a way through which the needle thread passes as it goes from the tension device, in a direction towards the needle, means for operating the take-up device so that its said end moves around a field, a fixed stitch setting and slack thread control partinto engagement with which the end of the takeup lever draws the needle thread as the said end of the lever passes around the field, and

' the said parts so located and operated relatively that the opener arm has commenced its reverse movement just previous to the beginning of the setting of the stitch.

18. In a lock stitch sewing machine having a combination needle thread control and stitch setting part, athread carrying needle, a tension device from which the thread goes to the needle, means whereby a section of the thread intermediate the tension device and the needle is moved around a field and thereby into engagement with the said com bination needle thread control and stitch setting part, and a cam action part and a thread guide so located relative to the said control and stitch setting part that the needle thread is held into positive engagement with the said control and stitch setting part from the beginning to the finishing of the setting of a stitch.

19. A lock stitch sewing machine having a thread carrying needle that operates in a vertical plane, a tension device, a needle thread handling take-up lever in the free end of which a way is formed through which the needle thread passes, the said lever locatedand operated in a vertical plane, a take-up guard plate located in a vertical plane intermediate the said take-up lever and the plane in which the needle operates, an auxiliary needle thread control and stitch setting part mounted on the side of the said plate nextto the take-up lever into engagement with which the take-up lever draws the needle thread, a part of the edge of the said plate constructed to hold the needle thread into engagement with the said control and stitch setting part, and a thread guide so located that it holds the needle thread into engagement with the said edge part or" the plate.

20. In a lock-stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory needle, a take-up member adapted to carry a portion of thread leadin to the needle in a path around a vertical fieid, a take-up guard adjacent to said field, and an element fixed upon said guard comprising a stitch-setting shoulder adjacent to the upper side of said field and a slack-thread controlling arm depending from said shoulder toward the lower side of said field.

21. In a lock-stitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory needle, a take-up mem ber adapted tocarry a portion of thread leading to the needle in a path around a vertical field, a take-up guard adjacent to said field, and a thread-controlling element depending from said guard on the take-up member side thereof having a stitch-setting shoulder adjacent to the upper thread-drawing up side of said field, said guard having a threaddefiecting cam disposed adjacent to the lower side of and inclined upwardly toward the thread-slack producing side of the field.

22. In a lockstitch sewing machine, a vertically reciprocatory thread-carrying needle, a needle-thread carrying take-up member actuated to perform ascending and desceding needle-thread controlling movements in spaced paths defining a field, and a fixed stitch-setting element projecting into the path of the thread carried by said take-up member in a position to effect setting of the stitches during the descending movements of said take-up member.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name.

WILLIAM N. PARKES.