US1912499A - Shoe and method of making the same - Google Patents

Description

3mm 6, 1933. F RE K 1,912,499

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed Nov. 15, 1928 Patented June 6, 1933 UNITED STATES FATENT OFFICE FRED HICKS, OF LEICESTER, ENGLAND, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE- MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JESEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAM Application filed November 15, 1928, Serial No. 319,589, and in Great Britain December 1, 1927.

This invention relates to shoes having Louis heels and to methods for use in their manufacture, and more particularly to the fitting of the heels upon the soles of shoes.

In preparing a shoe sole to receive a wooden Louis heel, it is customary to split the sole at its rear portion to form a breast flap which covers the breast of the heel when the shoe is completed, and to trim the rear portion of the sole to form a heel-seat for receiving the cupped attaching face of the heel. A Louis heel has a forwardly pro ecting lip extending transversely from one side of the heel to the other at the top portlon of its breast, the front edge of the lip tapering to a feather edge in order that the heel will blend properly with the shank portion of the sole of the shoe where it joins the latter.

It is generally the practice during the heelseat trimming operation to form a pa r of laterally extending heel breast receiving shoulders upon the sole of the shoe at the forward marginal portions of the heel-seat, against which shoulders the end portions of the feather edge of the lip of the heel abut, the central portion of the lip seating snugly upon the median portion of the sole. In order to make a neat joint where the lip portion of the heel and the sole are joined, it is essential that the heel breast receiving shoulders and the abutting ends of the feather edge should be of substantially the same size and complements of one another. The heel breast receiving shoulders, therefore, have small abutting surface areas which are substantially normal tothe attaching face of the heel and extend substantially transversely of the sole.

An object of this invention is to provide a shoe having a Louis heel, the shoe and the heel being so constructed that the heel may be quickly positioned upon the shoe and will form therewith a union which is strong, smoothly graduated, and neat in appearance.

l Vith the above object in view a feature of the invention consists in a shoe comprising a heel having a pair of planar shoulders one located at each of the upper corners of the breast of the heel and each extending from the breast to a side of the heel and facing forwardly and toward said side of the heel.

Another feature of the invention consists in a shoe having a sole provided with a reduced heel seat portion and having a pair of substantially plane heel breast receiving shoulders inclined to each other and each of which extends from one of the lateral margins of the reduced portion with a rearward component to the adjacent edge of the sole.

e further feature of the invention consists in a shoe having a Louis heel provided with a lip having a feather edge, an attachmg face having a marginal rim and a pair of breast edges, a pair of shoulders formed by a pair of planes which truncate a portion of the heel included between the feather edge of the lip, the rim of the attaching face and the heel breast edge, and a sole having coinpleincntal surfaces registering with the heel.

The present invention in its method aspect consists in the fitting of a Louis heel upon the sole of a shoe characterized by truncating the corners of the heel formed between the feather edge of the lip of the heel. the rim of he attaching face of the heel, and the breast edges of the heel to form a pair of shoulders each of which extends rearwardly and toward one of the sides of the heel, trimming surplus material from the periphery of the heel-seat portion of the sole of the shoe and forming heel breast receiving shoulders at the breast line of the sole complemental to the shoulders formed upon the heel, and attaching the heel to the sole of the shoe with the said shoulders in contact with the surfaces by which the heel corners are truncated.

The sole and the heel herein disclosed may be conveniently formed by the machine described and claimed in United States Letters Patent No. 1,847,244, granted March 1. 1932, on an application filed in the names of George Hazelton and applicant.

A shoe illustrated as embodying the invention will now be described with reference to the accompanying drawing, in which Fig. 1 is a perspective view of the heelseat portion of a shoe fitted in accordance with the present invention, the breast flap of the shoe being shown turned back from the heel-scat;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the rear portion of the completed shoe illustrating the appearance, after the heel has been incorporated in the shoe, of the side edges of the joint formed between the sole and the heel of the shoe;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of a heel constructed in accordance with the present invention and arranged to lit the heel-seats shown in Figs. 1 and 5;

Fig. 4 is a plan view of the rear portion of a sole of a shoe which has had its heelseat partially trimmed prior to the application of the sole to a shoe; and

F 5 is a perspective view of the heelseat portion of a. shoe showing a completed heel-seat which has been formed upon a sole similar to the sole shown in Fig. 4.

The illustrated shoe has a reduced heelseat portion 80 constructed to receive the cupped attaching face of a Louis heel 84 which is covered with celluloid, leather or a textile material on its sides 86 and has the covering folded over its top lift receiving face 38, its breast 40 and its attaching face. As is customary in Louis heels, the upper portion of the breast of the heel projects forwardly as it approaches the attaching face, forming a lip portion 42 having, as Viewed from the sides of the heel, a somewhat wedge shape. The forward part of the lip is thinned to a feather edge 44 which extends from one side of the heel to the other and which is adapted to conform to the surface of the shank portion 46 of the sole 48 of the shoe. As usual in shoes having Louis heels, the sole is split to provide a breast flap 50 which is applied to the breast of the heel and which during the heel-seat fitting operation is turned out of the way as illustrated in Fig. 1. For purpo es of illustration, the surface 69 (Fig. 1) of the sole formed by the flapsplitting operation will be included in the tread face of the sole.

As stated above, in the fitting of a Louis heel to a sole it is necessary that the feather edge 44 of the lip portion 42 shall fit snugly upon the median portion of the sole of the shoe, in order that the breast flap 50, which is applied to the breast of a heel. shall blend properly with the sole where it lies over the feather edge 44 of the heel. If for any reason the feather edge does not seat properly upon the sole, there will be a bulge in the surface of the sole at the portion indicated at 52 (Fig. 2) where the feather edge 44 meets the shank portion of the sole. which bulge spoils the appearance of the shoe.

The shoe illustrated in this application has had the heel-seat portion 30 of its sole fitted and its heel 34 trimmed to fit its heel-seat 30 in a machine such as is described in the above identified United States Letters Patout No. 1,847,244 in which machine correlated mechanism is constructed and arranged to operate upon the sole and the heel so that the heel-seat and the heel are mated with one another to provide the heel with a solid support and to give a neat and gradual blend to the finished shoe. The heel is trimmed in the machine by truncating its corners 54 which are formed between the breast edges or corners 56, the feather edge 44 and the rim portion 58 of the attaching face to form the SHILELCGS or shoulders 60 which are constructed and arranged to engage complemental heel breast receiving shoulders 62 formed on the sole of the shoe, which heel breast receiving shoulders are preferably undercut heightwise of the sole, as indicated by reference character 64, and extend from the reduced heel-seat portion 30 of the sole substantially at the heel breast line 66 rearwardly and laterally of the shoe.

The shoes shown in Figs. 1 and 5 have their sole attaching stitching 68 extending along the shank portion 46 of the shoe to points Somewhat rearward of the breast line 66 of the sole. The heel-seats which are formed by the above-mentioned machine are of full thickness throughout a substantial portion of their width and include steep beveled portions 70 extending along their margins in a direction substantially lengthwise of the shoe. By utilizing awide reduced heel-seat portion 30 of a sole having steep bevels 70, it is possible to produce a shoe having a sole with its line of stitching (5S uncut rearwardly of the breast line 66, which results in an improved heel-seat.

The sole 48 of Fig. 1 is what is termed a short sole, and accordingly its rear end 74 does not require trimming. This sole has been trimmed along its marginal portions 72 lengthwise of the shoe, in the machine which was referred to above, to form the beveled portions 70. The sole shown in Fig. 5 has been given a preliminary heel-scat trimming prior to its attachment to the shoe, as shown in Fig. 4, along its rear portion 76 as well as its rear side portions 78 to form a reduced heel-seat portion 80 (Fig. 5) extending from the lines 82 rearwardly of the sole, the two soles being alike from the lines 82 forwardly of the sole.

The breast of the heel illustrated in Fig. 3 is provided with a forwardly extending projection adjacent to the attaching face of the heel. This projection is provided with a feather edge 44 extending over a portionof the width of the heel and shoulders 60, which form substantial angles with the feather edge at the ends 84 thereof and may be considered as continuations of the feather edge and extend rearwardly of the heel as well as toward the sides 36 of the heel. The shoulders 60 also extend slightly forwardly of the heel as they approach the attaching face of the heel and may be said to be arranged generally heightwise of the heel.

The shoulders 60 may be said to be formed by a pair of substantially plane surfaces each defined by two lines 86 and 88 intersecting at a point 90 on each of the breast edges of the heel, the line 86 extending forwardly of the heel and toward the center of the feather edge a l from the point 90 and the other line 88 extending forwardly of the heel and toward the heel attaching face, said planes truncating the corners 54 of the heel.

The heel breast receiving shoulders 62 of the sole of the shoe extend laterally and rearwardly of the sole from the marginal portions of the reduced heel-seat portion of the sole, said shoulders beginning at the points 92 substantially at the breast line 66 of the sole and being undercut at 64 (Figs. 1, 2 and 5). The br ast receiving shoulders 62 maybe said to be formed by a pair of substantially plane surfaces each defined by two lines 61, (F s. 1 and 5) intersecting at a point 65 on the tread surface of the sole rearwardly of the breast line 66 of the sole and at the lateral edge of the sole, one of the lines ex tending forwardly of the sole and toward the center of the breast line 66 of the sole and the other line extending forwardly of the sole and toward the attaching face 67 of the sole.

The shoulders 60 may be cut at varying slopes and angles to the feather edge 44 of the ieel but it is preferred to have the angle 94 which the shoulder 60 makes with the feather edge about 165 degrees, the heel breast receiving shoulders of the sole being generally undercut at a suitable angle to receive the coinpleinental shoulders 60 formed upon the heel. which shoulders are of the same depth heightwise of the heel as the heel breast receiving soulders 62 of the sole.

The heel thus formed is adapted to be received by the heel-seat portion of the shoe so that the heel-seat lies snugly in the cupped attaching face of the heel. the shoulders 60 abutting against and mating with the heel breast receiving shoulders 62 and the feather edge l resting upon the median portion 46 of the sole at the breast line 66. Such an arrangeinent of parts produces a shoe having at the meeting of the heel-seat and the base of the flap a union of parts that is smooth and graduated and gives a neat finish to the shoe.

ri hen the heel is applied to the sole of the shoe, pressure will be exerted by the shoulders 60 forwardly of the shoe against the heel breast receiving shoulders 62, and the shoulders 62 may yield slightly and thereby flex forwardly of the shoe about their portions adjacent to the reduced portion 30 of the heel seat, due to the fact that the shoulders extend laterally and rearwardly of the sole. This feature allows the heel 3% to be moved forwardly of the sole 48 to its correct position on the sole in cases where the heel breast receiving shoulders 62 are formed too far rearwardly of the sole and also provides for purposely forming the shoulders 62 slightly rearwardly of their position in the finished shoe so that the shoulders 60 of the heel will be forced against the heel breast receiving shoulders 62 to assure forming a closed seam between the abutting should rs in the finished shoe.

The shoulders 60 formed upon the heel should be complemental to and register with the heel breast receiving shoulders 62 of the sole. It has been found, however, that it is sometimes better practice to form the shoulders 60 so that they will be inclined at a slightly steeper angle with the heelseat than the inclination of the shoulders 62 with the heel-seat. By thus forming the shoulders 60 and 62 at different inclinations to the heelseat, allowance for shrinkage of the sole, which is generally in tempered condition when it is trimmed, may be compensated for and at the same time contact of the shoulders 60 and 62 at the tread surface of the sole is assured.

Although certain angles for the shoulders formed upon the sole and the heel have been disclosed in the foregoing description, it will be uno rstood that these particular angles merely by way of illustration and that other angles, if generally more convenient, may be used. Tie angles used in practice may vary with the shape of the heel and the condition of its temper as well as with the quality of the sole so that the angles chosen may have to be a compromise. One reason for choosing 165 degrees as the angle which the shoulders formed on the heel make with a feather edge is that said shoulders then very nearly coincide with. an arc of a circle struck from the central portion of the rear end of the marginal rim of the attaching surface of the heel. so that any slight displacement of the heel about this center will not make any practical dilference in the mating of the shoulders on the heel with the heel breast receiving shoulders of the sole.

While the marginal portions 0 of the illustrated heel-seat are beveled, it should be understood that applicants invention, in various of its aspects, is not limited to such a form of heel-seat.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is l. A method of making a shoe having a Louis heel, said heel having a lip with a feather edge, an attaching face with a marginal rim and a pair of breast edges. consisting in truncating the corners of the heel includee between the feather edge of the lip, the rim of too attaching face of the heel and the heel breast edges to form a pair of shoulders, each of which extends rearwardly and toward a side of the heel, trimming surplus material from the periphery of the heel-scat portion of the sole of the shoe and forming heel breast receiving shoulders upon the sole at the breast line of the sole complemental to the shoulders formed upon tae heel, and attaching the heel to the sole of the shoe with said shoulders in conta-"t with the surfaces by which the heel corners are truncated.

2. A method of ma king a shoe having a Louis heel provided with a lip terminating in a. forward ed e, an attaching face with a marginal rim and a pair of breast edges, con sisting in forming a pair of shoulders extending from the forward edge of the lip to the sides of the heel, each of said shoulders being formed by a substantially plane surface defined by two lines int rsecting at a point on one of the breast edges of the heel, one of the lines extending forwardly of the heel and to vard the center of the forward edge from said pointaud the other of said lines extending forwardly of the heel and toward the attaching face of the heel, trimming surplus material from the periphery of the rear portion at the sole of the shoe to form a heelseat portion thereof! forming heel breast receiving shoulders at the breast line of the sole complemental to the shoulders formed upon the heel. and attaching the heel to the sole of the shoe with said shoulders in contactwith the surfaces by which the heel corners are truncated.

3. An improvement in the method of malting a shoe having a Louis heel which has an attaching face and a projecting lip terminating in a feather edge. consisting in forming at the ends of the feather edge a pair of shoulders each of which has substantial surface area and extends rearwardly and toward a ide of the heel as well as forwardly of the heel as it approaches the attaching face of the heel, trin'uning surplus material from the periphery of the rear portion of the sole of the shoe. to form a heel-seat portion thereof, forming heel breast receiving shoulders at the breast line of the sole complemental to the shoulders formed upon the heel, and attaching the heel to the sole of the shoe with said shoulders in contact with the surfaces by which the heel corners are truncated.

l. An improvement in the method of making a shoe having a Louis heel provided with a lip tcrminat' 1:1 in a feather edge. an attaching face with a marginal rim and a pair of breast edges, consisting in truncating the corners of the heel formed between the feather edge of the lip the rim of the at tachiug face of the heel and one of the heel breast cdges to form a pair of shoulders each of which extends rearwardly and toward one of the sides of the heel. trimming surplus n'iaterial from the peripheral portion of the rear portion of the sole to shape the heel-scat portion thereof for the re option of the heel and forming heel breast receiving shoulders each of which extends from a lateral. margin of the reduced heel-seat portion at he heel breast line of the sole rearwardly and laterally of the sole, which heel breast receiving shoulders are complementary to the shoulders formed upon the heel, and attaching the heel to the sole of the shoe with shoulders formed on the heel in contact with the heel breast receiving shoulders.

5. A Louis heel having a projecting lip with a feather edge and a pair of shoulders of substantial surface areas at the ends of the feather edge, each of which shoulders is arranged generally heightwise of the heel and extends from the feather edge to one of the sides of the heel and is constructed and arranged to engage portions of the sole of a shoe for correctly positioning the heel upon the sole lengtnwise of the sole.

6. A Louis heel having a projecting lip with a feather edge and shoulders at the ends of the feather edge, each of which shoulders comorises a substantially plane surface of considerable area and is arranged generally heightwise of the heel as well as extends om the -feather edge to one of the sides of a heel and is constructed and arranged to engage portions of the sole of a shoe for core-etly positioning the heel upon the sole :GllgflWlSQ of the sole.

'7. A Louis heel having a projecting lip with a feather edge and a pair of shoulders t the ends of the feather edge, which shouliers extend rearwardly of the heel as they ,proach the sides of the heel and are conructcd and arranged. to engage portions of ie sole of a shoe for correctly positioning 1e heel upon the sole lengthwise of the sole.

8. A Louis heel having a projecting lip with a feath r edge extending over a substantial portion the width of the heel, and a pair of shoulders at the ends of the feather edge, which shoulders extend rearwardly of th e heel as well as toward the sides of the heel.

9. A Louis heel having a lip with a feather edge and a pair of shoulders extending from the feather edge to the sides of the heel, said shoulders also extending forwardly of the eel they approach the attaching face of L). A shoe inc uding a Louis heel having with a forward edge and a pair of shoulocrs formed at an angle to the forward edge e lip and extending from the forward e go of the lip to the sides of the heel, said l .rs extending forwardly of the shoe approach the attaching face of the l the heel.

12. A Louis heel having a. lip with a feather edge, a pair of breast edges and an attaching face, a pair of shoulders extending from the feather edge of the lip to the sides of the heel, said shoulders being formed by a pair of substantially plane surfaces each delined by two lines intersecting at a point on one of the breast edges of the heel, one of said lines extending forwardly of the heel and toward the center of the feather edge from said point and the other of said lines extending forwardly of the heel and towarc the attaching face of the heel.

13. A Louis heel having a lip with a feather edge, an attaching face having a marginal rim, a pair of breast edges, and a pair of undercut shoulders each of which is formed by a plane which truncates a portion of the heel included between the feather edge of the lip, the rim of the attaching face, and one of the heel breast edges and is arranged gen erally heightwise of he heel.

lei. A Louis heel having a lip erniinating in a feather edge, an attaching are having a marginal rim, a pair of breast edges, and a pair of shoulders formed by a pair of planes each of which truncates a portion of the heel formed between the feather edge of the lip, the rim of the at aching face, and one of the heel breast edges, which shoulders extend toward the attaching face of the heel and forwardly of the heel.

15. A Louis heel provided with a projecting lip having a forward edge, breast edges, an attaching face and a pair of shoulders extending from the forward edge of the lip to the sides of the heel, said shoulders being formed by a pair of substantially plane surfaces each defined by two lines intersect-ing at a point on one of the breast edges of the heel, one of the lines ex tending forwardly of the heel and toward the center of the forward edge from said point and the other of said lines extending forwardly of the heel and toward the attaching face of the heel from said point.

16. A Louis heel having a lip with a feather edge, an attaching face having a marginal rim, a pair of breast edges and a pair of shoulders formed by a pair of planes each of which truncates a portion of the heel formed between the feather edge of the lip, the rim of the heel attaching face, and the heel breast edges, each of the planes intersecting the feather edge at a point a greater distance from the intersection of the corresponding breast edge, the marginal rim, and the feather edge, than the distance between said intersection and the points where the plane intersects the breast edge and the marginal rim.

17. A Louis heel having a lip with afeather edge, an attaching face having a marginal rim, a pair of breast edges and a pair of shoulders formed by a pair of planes each a pair of of which truncates a portion of the heel formed between the feather edge of the lip, the rim of the attaching face, and one of the heel breast or ges, each of the planes intersecting the feather edge at a point a greater distance, from the intersections of the corr vending breast edges, the marginal rim, and the feather edge, thanthe distance between the said intersection and the point where the plane intersects the marginal rim.

18. A shoe having a sole provided with a reduced heel-seat portion and having a pair of substantially plane heel breast receiving shoulders inclined to each other and each of which extends from one of the lateral margins of the reduced heel-seat portion substanti ally at the heel breast line of the sole rearwardly of and away from the reduced heelseat portion.

19. A shoe having a sole with a breast fiap split therefrom, said sole provided with a reduced heel-seat portion and having heel breast receiving shoulders undercut heightwise of the sole and extending from the lateral margins of the reduced heel-seat portion rearwardly and laterally of the sole substantially at the heel breast line of the sole.

20. A shoe having a sole with a breast flap split therefrom, said sole provided with a heel-seat portion and having heel breast receiving shoulders, said shoulders being formed by a pair of substantially plane surfaces each defined by two lines intersecting at a point on the tread surface of the sole rearwardly of the breast line of the sole and at one of the lateral edges of the sole, one of the lines extending forwardly of the sole and toward the center of the said breast line and the other line extending forwardly of the sole and toward the attaching face of the sole.

21. A shoe having a sole with a breast flap split therefrom and extending forwardly of the breast line of the sole, said sole being provided with a heel-seat portion and having heel breast receiving shoulders which extend from the lateral portions of the sole to the breast line of the sole, said shoulders being formed by a pair of substantially plane surfaces each defined by two lines intersecting at a point on the tread surface of the sole rearwardly of the breast line of the sole and at one of the lateral edges of the sole, one of thelines extending forwardly of the sole and toward the center of the said breast line and the other line extending forwardly of the sole and toward the attaching face of the sole.

22. A shoe provided with a Louis heel having a lip with afeather edge, an attaching face having a marginal rim, a pair of breast edges and a pair of shoulders formed by a pair of planes each of which truncates a portion of the heel formed between thefeather edge of the lip, the rim of the attaching face and one of the heel breast edges, and

a sole having eonipleinental surfaces constructed and arranged to register with the said shoulders.

23. In a shoe, a Louis heel having a project ing lip with a feather edge, a pair of shoulders at the ends of the feather edge which shoulders each have substantial .surface area and form a substantial angle with the feather edge, and a sole having coinpleinental surfaces constructed and arranged to register with said shoulders.

Eat. A shoe provided with a Louis heel having a pair of breast edges, a lip with a feather edge, an attaching face and a pair of shoulders extending from the feather edge of the lip to the sides of the heel, said shoulders being formed by a pair of substantially plane surfaces each defined by two lines inter ecting at a point remote from the feather edge on one of the breast edges of the heel, one of said lines extending forwardly of the heel and toward the center of the feather edge from said point and the other of said lines extending forwardly of the heel and toward the attaching face of the heel, and a sole having coiupleniental surfaces constructed and arranged to register with said shoulders.

25. In a shoe, a heel having a projecting lip with a forward edge, the ends of which edge extend rearwardly of the heel and toward the sides of the heel and are thicker heightwise of the shoe than the middle portion of said forward edge, and a sole having complemental surfaces constructed and arranged to register with said thicker portions.

26. In a shoe, a Louis heel having a lip with a feather edge, a pair of shoulders ex tending froin the feather edge to the sides of the heel, said shoulders extending forwardly of the shoe as they approach the attaching face of the heel, and a sole having coinpleinental surfaces constructed and arranged to register with said shoulders.

27. In a shoe, a Louis heel having a lip with a feather edge a pair of shoulders extending from the feather edge at points rcioved from the sides of the heel to the sides of the heel, said shoulders extending forwardly of the shoe as they approach the at taehing face of the heel, and a sole having coinpleinental surfaces constructed and arranged to receive said shoulders.

28. In a shoe, a Louis heel having a lip with a feather edge, a pair of shoulders extending from the feather edge at points removed from the sides of the heel to the sides of the heel at points to the rear of the heel breast line, said shoulders extending forwardly of the shoe as they approach the attaching face of the heel, and a sole having coinpleinental surfaces to register with said shoulders.

25). In a shoe, :1 heel provided with a projecting lip having a feather edge and having substantially plane surfaces extending froni the feather edge at points removed from the sides of the heel rearwardly of the heel and toward the sides of the heel, and a sole having conipleinental surfaces to receive said surfaces.

30. A shoe having a sole with a breast flap split therefrom, said sole including a reduced heelseat portion, heel breast receiving shoulders extending from the margin of the reduced heel-seat portion substantially at the heel breast line of the sole rearwardly and laterally of the sole of the shoe, and a heel constructed and arranged to be received by the heel-seat portion of the sole, said heel having conipleinental surfaces formed to register with the heel-seatportion of the sole and the heel breast receiving shoulders formed on the sole.

31. is shoe having a sole with a breast fia p split therefrom, said sole being provided with a heel-seat portion and having heel breast receiving shoulders, said shoulders being formed by a pair of substantially plane surfaces each defined by two lines intersecting at a point on the tread surface of the sole rearwardiy of the breast line of the sole and at one of the lateral edges of the sole, one of the lines extending forwardly of the sole and toward the center of the said breast line and the other extending for *ardly of the sole and toward the attaching face of the solo, a Louis heel provided with a lip portion having a feather edge, and a pair of shoulders each extending from the feather edge to a side of the heel to form surfaces complemental to the heel breast receiving shoulders formed on the sole of the shoe and shaped to register therewith.

32. A shoe having a sole with a breast flap split therefrom, said sole being provided with a reduced heel-seat portion and heel breast receiving shoulders each of which is undercut heightwise of the sole and extends from the margin of the reduced heel-seat portion substantially at the heel breast line of the sole rearwardly and laterally of the sole, and a heel constructed to be received by the heel-seat portion of the sole, said heel having coinpleinental surfaces shaped to register with the heel-seat portion of the sole and the heel breast receiving shoulders formed on the sole.

33. A shoe having a sole with a breast flap split therefrom, said sole being provided with a heel-seat portion and having heel breast receiving shoulders, each of said shoulders being formed by a substantially plane surface defined by two lines intersecting at a point on the tread surface of the sole rearwardly of the breast line of the sole and at one of the lateral edges of the sole, one of the lines extending forwardly of the sole and toward the center of the said breast line and the other line extending forwardly of the sole and toward the attaching face thereof, and a heel constructed to be received by the heel-seat portion of the sole and having complemental surfaces formed to register with the heel seat portion of the sole and the heel breast receiving shoulders formed on the sole.

3i. In a shoe, a Louis heel provided with a projecting lip having a feather edge, a pair of shoulders arranged generally heightwise of the heel at the ends of the feather edge each of which shoulders has substantial surface area and forms a substantial angle with the feather edge, a sole provided with a reduced heel-seat portion and having heel breast receiving shoulders at the heel breast line of the sole, which heel breast receiving shoulders are complemental to the shoulders formed upon the heel and are arranged to receive the shoulders formed upon the heel and are constructed to yield slightly under pressure of the heel forwardly of the shoe to assure forming a closed seam between the shoulders on the heel and the heel breast receiving shoulders.

35. A shoe having a sole with a breast flap split therefrom, said sole being provided with a reduced heel-seat portion and with a pair of heel breast receiving shoulders each aranged generally heightwise of the sole and extending from the margins of the reduced heel-seat portion of the sole at the heel breast line thereof laterally of the sole, a Louis heel positioned upon and secured to the sole and having a projecting lip with a feather edge, and a pair of shoulders at the ends of the feather edge, which shoulders have substantial surface areas and are constructed and arranged approximately to register with corresponding opposing heel breast receiving shoulders, the heel breast receiving shoulders and the shoulders formed on the heel being constructed and arranged to converge with respect to one another as they approach the tread face of the sole in order that they will register with one another adjacent to the tread surface of the sole before they register with one another over their remaining portions as the heel is positioned upon the sole.

36. A Louis heel having a projecting lip with a feather edge and a shoulder at one of the ends of the feather edge, which shoulder extends heightwise of the heel and rearwardly of the heel as it approaches one of the sides of the heel and is constructed and arranged to engage portions of the sole of a shoe for correctly positioning the heel upon the sole lengthwise of the sole.

37. A Louis heel having a projecting lip with a feather edge and shoulders of substantial surface areas, each of which is arranged generally heightwise of the heel and extends from the feather edge to one of the sides of the heel as well as increases in height from the feather edge to said side of the heel.

38. A Louis heel having a lip with a feather edge, an attaching face, having a marginal rim and a pair of breast edges, and a pair of shoulders formed by planes each of which truncate-s a portion of the heel included between the feather edge, the rim of the attaching face, and one of the breast edges, each of the planes intersecting one of the breast edges at a point a greater distance from the intersection of the corresponding breast edge, the rim of the attaching face and the feather edge, than the distance between said intersection and the point where the plane intersects the rim of the attaching face.

39. A Louis heel having a lip with a feather edge, an attaching face, having a marginal rim and a pair of breast edges, and a pair of shoulders formed by planes each of which truncates a portion of the heel included ietween the feather edge of the lip, the rim of the attaching face, and one of the breast edges, each of the planes intersecting the feather edge at a point located at a. greater distance from the intersection of the correspending breast edge, marginal rim of the' intersecting the breast edge at a point a greater distance from said intersection than the distance between the intersection and the place where the plane intersects the marginal rim.

40. A shoe provided with a Louis heel having a projecting lip with a feather edge, an attaching face having a marginal rim, a pair of breast edges and a pair of shoulders each formed by a plane which truncates a portion of the heel formed between the feather edge of the lip, the rim of the attaching face and one of the breast edges, and a sole having shoulders complemental to the shoulders formed on the heel and constructed and arranged to register with the shoulders upon the heel to locate the heel properly upon the sole.

41. A shoe having a sole with the breast flap split therefrom, said sole including a reduced heel-seat portion, heel breast receiving shoulders extending from the margin of the reduced heel-seat portion at the heel breast line of the sole rearwardly and laterally of the sole, and a heel constructed and arranged to be received by the heelseat portion of the sole, said heel having compleniental shoulders of the same size as the heel breast receiving shoulders and arranged to register with the heel breast receiving shoulders for positioning the heel upon the sole.

42. A Louis heel having a projecting lip with a feather edge and a pair of shoulders at the ends of the feather edge, each of which shoulders extends transversely of the sole arlid is inclined at an acute angle to the feather ec go.

43. A shoe comprising a heel having a pair of planar shoulders one located at each of the upper corners of the breast of the heel and each extending from the breast to a side of the heel and facing forwardly and toward said side of the heel.

44. A shoe comprising a heel having a pair of planar shoulders located at the upper marginal portions of the breast of the heel and extending from the breast to the sides of the heel and rearwardly as they approach said sides, said shoulders also extending forwardly of the heel as they approach the attaching face thereof.

45. A shoe having a sole provided with a reduced heel seat portion and having a pair of substantially plane heel breast receiving shoulders inclined relatively to each other and each of which extends with a rearward component from one of the lateral margins of the reduced portion to the adjacent edge of the sole. 1

46. A shoe having a sole provided with a reduced heel seat portion and having a pair of undercut substantially plane heel breast receiving shoulders inclined relatively to each other and each of which extends with a rearward component from one of the marginal portions of the reduced portion to the adj acent edge of the sole.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

FRED RIGKS.

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