US190709A - Improvement in machines for sewing boots and shoes - Google Patents

Description

2 Sheets-Sheet 1. C. DANCEL.

MACHINE Non SEWING BooTs AND sNoEs. No. 190,709.

Patented May15,1877

N'PEIERS, PHOTO-LlTHQGRAPHER. WASHINGTON, D C

Z Sheets-Sheet 2.

Patented Mayl, 1877.

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UNITED STATES PATENT @Errea CHRISTIAN DANCEL, OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

IMPROVEMENT IN MACHINES FOR SEWING BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 190,709, dated May 15, 1877; application tiled November 27, 1876.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, CHRISTIAN DANGEL, of the city, county, and State of New York, have invented an Improvement in Sewing-Machin es for Boots and Shoes, of which the following is a specification:

This invention relates to sewing-machines for sewing what are known vas turned shoes, or for sewing welts to uppers and inner soles for welted work.

In this class of work the edge of the upper or the upper and welt are sewed to a lip-like portion, extending aboutthe sole near its edge, such lip being that portion of the substance of the sole left between the inner channel and the outer edge or channel of the sole. This lip is sometimes called the between substance.

In sewing a heavy upper to the lip of a poor or spongy insole, the stitch is liable to pull through or tear away from and destroy the lip, the only portion to which the upper can be sewed, and so, when the stock is very close and dry, the lip is liable to be broken away bythe stitch.

In this invention, this difficulty is overcome by the use of a lip-holder, a device similar to an awl-point, and adapted to penetrate the lip in the direction of the thickness of the sole. This lip-holder enters the lip just after the feed takes place and before the needle passes through the lip, the needle entering the lip close to the lip-holder, and the latter holding the lip until the needle recedes and draws its loop taut, thereby preventing the portion of the lip inclosed by the thread forming the stitch from becoming torn or destroyed by drawing the stitch taut. The lip-holder pins or fastens the fibers of the lip in place, and forms a point of resistance around which the thread is drawn, and toward which the upper is, or the upper and welt are, drawn.

The lip-holder is also beneficial in that it holds the lip and shoe firmly and steadily, both while the needle penetrates the lip and until it draws the stitch taut.

In this invention I employ a curved awl to perforate the lip for the passage of the needle, it also holding the lip, and moving laterally with, and assisting and co-operating with, the channel-guide to feed the shoe, and it also assists in holding the lip and sole until the needle is about to enter the lip from the opposite side.

In this invention, the edge or welt guide has imparted to it a positive motion away from the shoe after each stitch. The weltguide has usually been mounted concentric-ally with the needle, and so as to cause the welt t'o be borne at all times against the shoe with a yielding pressure. Such plan is, however, objectionable, for when the shoe is ilnperfectly lasted, or does not fit the last, the fullness of the upper is, by the action of the welt-guide rubbing against it, formed intoa plait or fold, which causes imperfect work. By giving the welt-guide a slight motion away from the shoe after each stitch, as herein provided for, this difficulty is avoided.

Figure l represents, in front view, a machine embodying my invention. Fig. 2 is a side view from the left, showing the arrangement of the back gage and edge or welt-guide, with the devices for intermittently locking them, and the arrangement of the lip-holder, hereinafter described, to hold the lip of the solein its place, and Fig. 3 is a side view, from the right of the machine. Fig. 4 is a detail of the lip-holder. Fig. 5 is a detail ofthe awl, and Figs. 6, 7, and 8 represent, side, end, and top views of the Welt-guide.

This machine is usually mounted upon au iron column or stand, and is driven by a foottreadle with connecting-rod and iiywheel, or by steam-power, as preferred.

The base a ofthe machine has arms projecting upward on each side to receive and support the pillar-posts b b, onthe upper ends of which are the bearings for the driving-shaft c, upon which are mounted the actuating-cams of the machine.

Upon the central portion of the base, under the cams, is fitted another casting, of a snitable form to receive and support the principal levers and working parts of the machine. This casting is indicated by the letter d.

The curved needle l is mount-ed. in an oscillating needle-segment, guided in a guide w, and it is provided with a needle-guard, a', as in United States Patent No. 116,947, it being mounted upon the same center, and working concentrically with the needle. The curved In other words, the guide is moved backward at each stroke an equal distance from a variable base-line, which is represented by the stock, and it varying in thickness changes the base-line.

I do not intend to limit my invention in this respect to the exact mechanical devices to move the welt-guide in this way for such devices may be variously modified without departing from this invention.

The gage f presses at all times against the shoe with a yielding pressure, except during the time that the needle pierces the work and tightens the stitch, when it is rigidly locked by the action of the detent or pawl 13, which is caused to engage the teeth of the segmental lever 14, provided with a slot to receive a pin projecting from the shank of the gage f. rIhe pawl 13 is moved by the lever g, pivoted at b, and operated by a proper cam on shaft o, the lever being moved at proper time to permit the two pawls 13 30 to be operated by their springs to lock both gages when the needle penetrates the stock, and when the stitch is being drawn up. The pawl 30 engages a toothed block or portion, 31, upon e', to hold it forward positively. Spring 32 holds the guide c forward with a yielding pressure, and the spring 33 holds the gage f in the same way. rlhis guide e is so arranged that at the time the stitch is being taken through the welt it is pressed firmly against the upper and sole, so as to relieve the needle of the strainwhich would be required to draw these parts iirmly together.

The lip-holder maybe timed to enter the lip after the needle penetrates it, and then it will hold the lip as the stitch is completed.

In Fig. 6, the dotted lines w3 represent the welt, a way, 35, being formed at the end of the welt-guide to receive the welt, and present it between the upper and the point of the needle.

In Fig. 3 I have shown a welt, x4, on one side of the shoe, the upper being upon the last.

The welt-guide has at its forward end the curved lip 36, for the passage of the needle. A channel or way, 35, for the reception of the welt, is formed by cutting the guide away, leaving a hook, 37, under which the welt passes, the lower edge of the welt being overlapped and guided by an adjustable finger, 3S, held in position by a set-screw, 39. `A spring, 40, connected with the finger 39, bears against the edge of the welt, and holds it up in the way 35, behind the hook 37.

Having thus described my invention, I wish it understood that l do not confine myself to the precise form of construction herein shown and described, as the form may be very much changed without essentially altering the principle of the machine; but

What I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is as follows:

1. In a machine to sew turns or welts to uppers arid insoles, thc combination, with stitch-forming mechanism, of a lip-holder, to penetrate the lip of the sole transversely to the path of the awl or needle, so as to hold the lip and sole in its place for the formation of the stitch, substantially as described.

2. The combination, with the welt-guide, of mechanism to impart to it an intermitting motion away from the shoe, substantially as and for the purpose described.

3. The combination, with the welt-guide, of mechanism to move it away from the shoe a uniform distance, irrespective of variations in the thickness of the upper, substantially as and for the purpose described.

4. In combination, the lever g, pawls 30 and 13, and a toothed block, and segmental lever 14, substantially as described, to lock and release th'e back or edge and welt guides, as set forth.

5. 'Ihe awl-carrying lever, in combination with the awl, pivoted thereto, substantially as described, to permit the point of the awl to be elevated, substantially as shown and described.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

CHRISTIAN DANCEL.

Witnesses:

G. W. GREGORY, L. El. Lumina.

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