US1853398A - Full-fashioned stocking and method of making same - Google Patents

Description

Patented Apr. 12, 1932 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE `EDIMOND H. BELBEB, 0F PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO FASHIONLOX,

INCORPORATED, OF DOVER, DELAWARE, .A CORPORATION OF DELAWARE FULL-FASHIONED STOCKmG AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Application led October 6, 1930. Serial No. 486,845.

This invention relates to the art of fullfashioned hosiery and concerns particularly a stocking of greatly improved appearance and strength inV those portions which are Q shaped, or fashioned, by narrowing or widening the web during the course of knitting, while embodying, nevertheless, those identifying characteristics which distinguish fullfashioned stockings knit in flat condition from other types of hosiery. In obtaining a stocking having such advantages a novel method of fashioning is employed which also forms a part of this invention.

In shaping full-fashioned hosiery by narrowing or widening the stockin web, it 1s the common practice to transfer inwardly or outwardly, in accordance with the direction the web is being knit, groups of stitches adjoining the respective edges. Such operations can be effected as often as desired as additional courses are knit, but to maintain a relatively nice appearance, it is preferable not to narrow or widen more often than every fourth or sixth course. In the early art the stitches, or needle loops, were transferred only one needle, but it was found that it was impossible by this practice to obtain sufficient shaping. This resulted in the present general practice of transferring the stitches in the various courses in which narrowing or widening is effected by at least two needles. While the desired shaping may be effected by transferring the stitches two needles, socalled fashioning marks are produced in the several courses where the last inward stitch of the transferred group adjoins the main portion of the stocking web. Such fashioning marks are quite pronounced and unsiglitly, the size depending on thc number of needles the stitches are transferred, and the knitted loops are unduly tensioned by reason of the transfer operation so as to weaken the knitted web at these points increasing the danger of runs and dropped stitches. Further, the appearance of the finished stocking is spoiled to some extent by reason of the fact that the Wales formed by the transferred groups of stitches along the edge will run parallel to the edge and at a. considerable angle to the direction of the wales in the body of the web, producing a displeasing contrast between the fashioned and unfashioned portions of the web.

I am aware that it has hitherto been proposed to overcome some of the above disadvantages by effecting the transfer of only a small end group of stitches so that all fashioning marks in the various courses may be gathered up in the selvage seam when the stocking is assembled. Such an expedient has the serious disadvantage from a commercial point of view in that the narrowing marks, which form the distinguishing characteristics of full-fashioned hosiery are hidden in the seam. A further disadvantage is that the unshaped portion of the stocking web .adjoins the seam and the wales thereof meet the seam at such an angle as to produce an unfavorable effect.

Having in mind the objectionable features of full-fashioned stockings made in accordance with known practices, I propose to produce according to a novel method a fully fashioned, full-fashioned stocking having all of the advantages in appearance and strength of stockings in which the narrowing or widening consists in the transfer of stitches by only one needle, and having the desired shape heretofore obtained by trans ferring by two or more needles.

In the drawings:

Fig. l illustrates diagrammatically a fullfashioned stocking in fiat condition in which the shaping is effected by narrowing according to my invention;

Fig. 2 illustrates diagrammatically a rear view of a completed full-fashioned stocking narrowed according to the present invention;

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view on a magnified scale illustrating the method employed in narrowing a full-fashioned stocking web according to the present invention.

My basic concept is to shape the stocking web by fashioning along two or more lines with respect to the edges of the web. The most outward fashioning may be obtained by suitable manipulation of the last stitch at the edge of the courses in which shaping is to be effected by various known expedients, as by dropping the end stitch if narrowing is to be effected, or twisting such stitch in the case of widening. However, a better product will be obtained by effecting the shaping nearest the edges in the various courses by transferring the end group of stitches inwardly or outwardly by one or more needles. The further shaping more inwardly from the edge is obtained by transferring additional groups of stitches adjacent the first group 1n the various courses in such manner that the fashioning marks in the several courses will define a line parallel with the edge of the web, such effect being produced by transferring the same number of stitches in corresponding groups in various courses inwardly or outwardly by the desired number of needles. If two or more transfers are effected in each of various courses, it will be understood that the lines defined by the fashioning marks will be parallel to the edge of the web and to each other.

While the transfer of stitches in the various courses may be over one, two, or more needles and yet produce narrowing marks along several parallel lines inwardly from the edge, I prefer to make each of the several transfers in the various courses cover only one needle as in this way the web is not weakened, although the desired shape results from the several transfers in the respective courses. Furthermore, and what is most important in connection with the appearance of the finished product, the transfer farthest inwardly from the edge should be by only one needle and should be such as to make the fashioning marks occupy the same position relative to the edge of the web as is now the practice.

My essential purpose in narrowing in several areas inwardly from the edge of the web being to improve the appearance and strength of the finished stocking, further advantages may be obtained by locating one or more of the rows of fashioning marks near the edge of the web so as to be incorporated in the seam when the stocking is assembled, and the most inwardly set of marks so as to occupy the position, say eighteen stitches inwardly from the edge in the case of a fine gauge product, as in common practice. Such an arrangement will result in a com leted stocking havin one visible set of fashioning marks, which orm the distinguishing characteristics of full-fashioned hosiery, located parallel to the seam, which marks are notf objectionable to the eye since the transfer is by only one needle, and an additional set or sets of fashioning marks,` evidencing the other transfer necessary to complete the shaping, located within the seam. A further advantage arises from the fact that the wales between the two, or more, arallel sets of fashioning marks will be at ess of an angle with respect to the edge than the wales of the main part of the web, but will not be parallel to the edge as will the wales between the edge and the first inward set of fashioning marks. The effect produced is as if the wales of the main web gradually curve downwardly and merge into the seam at a gradually decreasing angle. Still another advanta e, arising from the fact that since the trans er is to be only over one needle, heavier thread may be used in knitting the reinforced portions of the heel.

Referring now to the drawings, it will be noted that I have illustrated the manner of producing a stocking embodying the abovedescribed ideas, the stocking being of the type knit from the top to the foot with the result that the shaping is effected b a narrowing operation. It will be un erstood, however, that my inventive concept is equally applicable to stockings which are knit from the foot to the top and in which the shaping is effected by means of a widenin operation. It is deemed unnecessary to il ustrate the embodiment of my invention in connection with both types of stocking, inasmuch as the actual method of transferring the stitches, both in connection with widening and narrowing, is well known. It is believed sulficient to call attention to the fact that in the narrowing operation the fashioning marks comprise whatappears to be a knot b reason of the existence of two loops in the same Wale, whereas in the widening operation a slight hole is produced in the fabric.

In Fig. 1 I have illustrated a portion of a stocking, including the calf portlon, generally denoted by the reference character 10, and

the heel portion denoted by the numeral 11.`

As is well known, it is necessary that certain ortions of the stocking be shaped or fashloned to conform to the contour of the human leg. In producing the desired taper where the stocking is knit from the top towards the.

foot, groups of stitches adjacent the edge are transferred inwardly one or more needles. In making a stocking according to the present invention as above set forth, I propose to effect the narrowing by successive transfers of one or more groups of stitches, preferably in the same courses, near the edge with the result that more than one set of fashioning marks are produced inwardly from the edge of the fabric. In Fig. 1 I have illustrated a stocking embodying two such transfers resulting in two sets of fashioning marks comprising, respectively, fashioning marks 12 and 13 in the calf and corresponding groups comprising, respectively, fashioning marks 14 and 15 in the heel section. For best appearance, it is desirable that these several sets of fashioning marks be parallel and preferably that the set of fashioning marks 12 nearest the edge be so positioned as to be incorporated in the seam when the stocking is sewed up. The fashioning marks 13 will preferably occupy the same relative position with respect to the edge as is common practice. It will be understood that similar fashioning may be effected in other portions of the stocking as desired with the same arrangement of the fashioning marks.

5 In producin the desired shaping in a stocking whereln a narrowing operation is employed, the knitting is effected to produce a fabric such as re resented in Fig. 3. In this figure, I have indlcated the edge portion of three courses a,b and c, narrowing being effected in courses a and c; b indicates a course of plain knitting and is followed by a broken course to indicate that the narrowing may be effected in as frequent courses as is' desired.

In producing the several transfers which result in the several sets of parallel fashioning marks several expedients may be employed. As heretofore indicated, the fashiomng nearest the edge may be effected merely by dropping the end stitch in the various courses in which it is desired to effect narrowing, but referably, and as illustrated several trans ers inwardly from the edge of the stocking give a b'etter product. The several transfers of groups of stitches inwardly from the edge may be effected in any desired order by obvious manipulation of the transfer points with which the fiat knittin machines on which the full-fashioned stoc ings are made are equipped. I prefer to effect transfer of the end group of stitches extending inwardly to the stitch wherein the most inward transfer is to be effected one or more needles and then eitherl to move the same transfer oints outwardly so as to collect a lesser num er of stitches of the group inwardly one or more titches further or to provide additional transfer points to accomplish this latter purpose after the usual transfer points have operated to transfer the complete group. It is to be understood, however, that the end group, which will define the fashioning marks nearest the edge, may first be transferred, and then these stitches, with the additional stitches, includin the last stitch inwardly to be transferre to effect the additional narrowing resulting in the production of the second set of fashioning marks. For best results, as above indicated, I prefer` to make each transfer over only one needle with the obvious result that the end group of stitches, which in Fig. 3 I have indicated as including arbitrarily three loops, will be transferred inwardly two needles by reason of the successive transfers of one needle, and the additional stitches in the narrowed courses a and c, over to what I have arbitrarily selected as the tenth stitch, will be transferred only one needle. By such method of 6 narrowing, fashioning marks will be produced at points 16 and 1 8. In order that the fashioning marks in the several courses may be parallel, itis necessary that the successive transfers in the various courses include the same number of stitches and be over the same number of needles. By such a method, fashioning marks, indicated as arisin at 17 and 19 in course c, will be produced w ich are in line respectively with the fashioning marks produced in course a at 16 and 18.

Referring again to Fig. 1, it will be seen that the wales of the courses between the outermost fashioning marks 12 and the edge of the fabric are parallel to the edge and that the wales in the area between the rows of fashioning marks 12 and 13 form a relatively slight angle to the edge wales, and also a relatively slight angle with the wales in the main portion of the web". This feature is quite desirable, inasmuch as it gives the effect of a gradual tapering of the wales at a decreasing angle to the edge of the web.

This effect can be more readily appreciated by referring to Fig. 2 which shows a portion of the completed stocking corresponding to Fig. 1 in which it will be noted that the wales in the area between the seam and the fashioning marks 13 are at a less an le with respect to the seam than are the wa es of the main portion of the web.

For best appearances, it is desirable to position the fashioning marks 12 sufliciently near the edge so as to be gathered u in the seam when the stocking is assemble and if it is desirable for pro er shaping to effect further transfers in addition to the two indicated to also eiiect such transfers suciently near the ed e so that the resulting fashioning marks wil? be gathered within the seam. Such will result in adequate shaping of the stocking wherein only one set of fashionin marks appear in the finished stockin an these since they embody a transfer o only one needle.

What I claim is:

1. A full fashioned stockin comprising a flat blank fashioned in severa parallel areas adjacent each selvage edge thereof, said blank being sewed up along the edges and completely incorporating in the seam so produced the fashioned area nearest each selvage edge.

2. A full fashioned stocking com rising a fiat fashioned-blank having parallelrows of fashioning marks adjacent each selvage ed thereof, the blank being' sewed up along t e edges and incorporating in the seam so produced the rows of fashioning marks nearest each selvage edge.

3. A full fashionedstocking comprising a fiat fashioned blank having parallel rows of fashioning marks lying at different distances inwardly from each selvage edge, said rows of fashioning marks being so positioned that one row will lie within and the other row without the seam produced when the blank is sewed up.

4. The method of making a full fashioned stocking which consists in knitting a blank along parallel lines in flat condition, fashioning they blank at suitable intervals along the edges thereof to produce a plurality of rows of fasbioning marks extending parallel to the edges by transferring certain narrow end groups of stitches at least two needles and transferring other groups of stitches lying inwardly of the first-mentioned groups b only one needle, and sewing up the blank along the edges to include in the seam so produced the portion of the fabric to a width defined on the inner side by a line extending between and parallel to the several rows of fashioning marks.

5. The method of making a full fashioned stocking which consists in knitting a blank along parallel lines in fiat condition, fashioning the blank at suitable intervals alon the edges thereof to produce a plurality o fashioned areas yof different characteristics defined by several rows of fashioning marks, the outermost rows of fashioning marks and the outer areas defined thereby lying within the stocking seam, by transferring narrow egual end groups of stitches a given number o needles to produce a fashioned area. defined by rows of fashioning marks extending parallel to the edges and transferring other groups of stitches inwardly of the first groups a lesser number of needles in the same direction. and sewing up the blank to incorporate in the seam the outermost fashioned areas and rows of fashioning marks.

6. A full fashioned stocking comprising a fiat knit blank fashioned in several parallel areas adjacent each selvage edge thereof and sewed up to include in the seam the fashioned area nearest each selvage edge, the area lying within the seam being narrowed or Widened by a greater number of needles than the adjacent fashioned area lying without the seam.

7 A full fashioned stocking comprising a flat knit blank fashioned in several parallel areas adjacent each selvage edge thereof and sewed up to include in the seam the fashioned area nearest each selvage edge, the area lying within the seam being4 narrowed or widened two needles and the area lying without the seam by one needle.

8. A full fashioned stocking including a seam joining the selvage edges thereof, the stocking fabric including fashioned areas extending along each side of the seam and adjacent thereto, said fashioned areas being defined by rows of fashioning marks lying in parallel relation with the seam, the wales in such fashioned areas extending at an angle to the seam and to the wales of the main stocking fabric.

9. A full fashioned stocking including a seam joining the selvage edges thereof, the stocking fabric including several fashioned areas extending along the selvage edges, the area nearest said edges extending parallel thereto and being of such width as to lie with-- seam will extend at an angle both to the seam and the wales of the main stocking fabric.

In testimony whereof I afiix my si nature.

EDMOND H. BEL ER.

Images