US1795222A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

March 3, 1931. LlFSCHUT-z 1,795,222

' SHOE 7' Filed June 24, 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet l HwI/TJ Lif'schzwx March 3, 1931. H. LIFSCHUTZ SHOE Filed June 24, 1930 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 6W0: we as Pa tented Mar.-3, 1931 i UNI T ED STATES PATENT OFFICE Application filed June 24, 1930. Serial No. 463,525.

This invention relates to shoes and more Figure 4; is a transverse sectional view particularly to improvements in the sole conthrough the sole taken along the line 44 struction and the manner in which margins of Figure 3; I

of the upper are secured about margins of Figure 5 is a longitudinal sectional view 5 the sole.

One object of'the invention is to provide a applied thereto;

shoe having its sole so constructed that mar- Figure 6 is a transverse sectional view ginal portions of the upper may be very firmthrough the shoe taken along the line 6- ly attached to the sole and all danger of Of Figure 5; V

1Q stitching employed therein from becoming Figure 7 is an enlarged view of approxio0 worn and portions of the upper released mately one-half of Figure 6, and illustrating eliminated. the manner in which the upper is sewed to Another objectof the invention is to so thesole; and

- form marginal portions of the sole that mar- Figure 8 is a perspective view looking at ginal portions of the upper may be tucked the bottom of a portion of the shoe with the 65 into the sole where they will be firmly sebordering strip turnedback to show the man-. cured by stitching and produce a shoe which ner in which the stitches engage marginal will be very neat in appearance. i portions of the upper.

Another object of the inventionis to pro- The improved sole constituting the subvidea sole so cut about its margin that sewv je ct matter of this invention has been 70 ing of the upper to the sole may be accomshown'applied to a low quarter shoe such as plished without turning the shoe and to fur: a pump or slipper but itis to be understood ther so form the sole that a portion thereof that it could be applied to a high shoe or any will constitute a flap extending along the "other type of shoe. This shoe which is indishank and against the front -or breast face cated in general by the numeral 1 has the 75 of the heel and thereby eliminate any break usual outer'skin or leather 2, a lining'3 box 1 or dividing line between the shank and heel 4, and counter 5 Marginal portions-oi the when the shoe is finished. J Y I upperar'e secured about margins of the sole- Another" object of the invention is to so after which the heel 6 and shank or stiffener form the sole that the stitches may be firmly I 7 are secured in place. and an inner sole 8 80 engaged with the sole without protruding; glued in covering relation to the upper face from the inner or outer face thereof and of the main sole. Themain sole indicated eliminate roughness which might cause the in general by the numeral 9 consists of a shoe to be uncomfortable when worn. a blank cut from leather and having the gen- Another object of the invention is to proeral shape of a shoe sole as shown in Flg- 85 vide a shoesole ormed from asingle pieceof ures 2 and 3. The blank from which the leather and which will be very simple in its sole is formed will, of course, be cut in ac- 7 construction and'to ipich the upper may be cordance with the type of shoe to whlch 1t rs very easily and quic yiattache to be applied. From its heel end the sole is Y 40 The invention illustrated in the accom-, split longitudinally to form a tongue or flap 1 panying drawings wherein v r 10 which is attached at approximately the Figure '1 is a longitudinal sectional view junction of the shank and ball of the sole as through the improved sole; shown clearly in' Figure 5 and from the for- Figure 2 is a view taken along the line ward or attached end of this tongue the 2-2 of Figure 1; i leather blank is'split about its margin to Figure 3 is a perspective View of the imform a marginal strip 11 having its rear proved sole, a portion thereof being shown ends meshing intothe tongue or flap 10. in section and a flap forming part of the sole The central portion 12 of the ball portion being turned upwardly to expose the portion of the sole remains solid asit is uncut and of the sole beneath the same; I 1/ constitutes a good anchorage 'tor the borthrough a shoe having the'improved sole dering strip 11 and forward end of the flap .or tongue 10. After the flap and bordering strip have been formed margins of the blank are reduced in thickness from the under -surface of its upper portion-to form a pocket the knife extends towards the margin of the blank thereby forming a flap 15 extend ing entirely about the blank beneath the strip 11 and tongue 10 with its free edge facing inwardly. c

While the drawing discloses the sole 9 split inwardly from its edges sothat the upper stri or portion thereof is of greater thickness t an the lower strip or portion of same, it will be understood that this is merely a matter of illustration and that said sole may be split so that the outer strip or portionthereof is of the same or greater thickness than the inner strip or portion of the sole; This is merely a matter of degree and is open to the choice of the manufacturer, according to the type of shoe that is being manufactured.

After the blank or sole has been cut as shown clearly in Figures land 3, it is ready to be applied to the upper. TIL-doing so a last is fitted into the upper and the sole then set in place and temporarily tacked or otherwise secured to the upper. The tongue 10 and the strip 11 are turned back out of the way after which marginal portions of the upper are foldedinwardly to overlie marginal 17 are passed through the upper and the atportions of the sole and fit within the pocket or seat 13, as shown at 16 in Figure 8. The marginal portions of the sole against which the upper fit may be paired 0H and rounded transversely as shown in Figuresfl and 7 in order to provide a smooth surface and thereby prevent a line from appearing through the upper above the sole.

After the marginal portions of the ,upper have been fitted into the seat 13 of the sole the flap 15 is turned outwardly and stitches tachedportion of this flap thereby very firmly securing the marginal portions of the upper to the sole. The flap is then returned to, its initial position where it may be glued if so desired and the bordering strip 11 thrust downwardly and glued from its inner edge to the inner edge of the seat 13. The outer marginal portion of this bordering strip may be left free as shown in Figures 6 and 7 so that it projects outwardly a short distance from the upper or it may be'glued against the inturned marginal portion of the upper as shown in 'Figure5. After the reinforcement 18 has been applied to the shank of the sole the heel 6 is set in place whereit is firmly secured by a screw 19 and a suitable number of nails 20 and the tongue;

veaaas 1O thenfirmly glued-against the shank with its rear end portion extending to cover the front or breast face of the heel where it is firmly secured by glue. The extreme end of the tongue is turned under the heel as shown at 21 and 'the lift 22 then applied to the heel where it is secured by a suitable number of nails 23. The usual shank or stifiener 7 is applied as shownin Figure 5'and the insole set in place where it is glued or otherwlse firmly secured. By inspection of Figures 5, 6 and 7 it will be seen that a sole and upper constructed and applied to each other in accordance with this invention will be very strongly united and since the stitches are 8Q covered by a bordering strip which is relatively thick there will be no danger of the covering for the stitches becoming detached and exposing the stitches for engagement with the ground and resulting likelihood of the stitches becoming worn. It will be further noted that by this arrangement the stitches may be applied without turning the shoe thereby permitting the sole and upper to be very easily-and quickly applied to each other. This materially reduces the time and cost of manufacture. l i

From the foregoing description of the construction of my improved apparatus, it will be seen that T have provided a simple, inexpensive and efiicient means for carrying out the objects of my invention and while I have particularly described the elements best adapted to? perform the functions set forth it is obvious that various changes in form,

proportion and in the minor details'of construction may be resorted to without depart in from the spirit or sacrificing any of the principles of the invention.

Having thus described the invention what I claim is:

1. In a shoe, an upper, a sole, the sole being, split and out about its margin to form an inset shoulder, a channel and a covering strip,

said upper having its marginal portion turnmarginal flap and marginal portion of the upper.

2. A shoe comprising a sole and an u per,

theupper having its marginal portion tted into a seat extending about the margin of the sole and covered by a shield formedintegral with the sole, the said sole having a channel formed therein and extending toward the adjacent sole edge, and stitches passing through the channel and marginal portion of the upper to firmly hold the upper in place with the channel andstitches covered by said shield.

3. A shoe comprising a sole and an upper, the upper having its marginal portion fitted into a pocket formed about the margin of the sole, said sole being formed with a covering for the channel, stitches, andmarginal portion of the upper, and firmly secured in cov-" ering relation to the flap and marginal portion of the upper after theupper has been stitched. V a I 4. A.shoe comprising an upper and a sole, said sole being split longitudinally from its heel end for a portionof its length to form a tongue and between the forward end of the tongue and toe being slit about its margin to for-ma covering strip merging at its rear end into the recess formed by splitting the tongue from the sole, a marginal portion of the sole' being removed to form a seat to receive the marginal portion of the upper, and the sole being channeled in spaced parallel relation to'its margin inwardly from said seat to form a circumferentially extending flap having its free edge disposed inwardly, stitches passing through the attached side portion of the flap and the marginal portion 'of' the upper to secure the upper in-its seat, a heel applied to the rear portion of the sole with. portions of the heel overlapping the marginal portionof theupper and the stitches securing the same,

the covering strip being firmly secured in place in overlying and covering relation to portions of the flap and, the marginalportion of the upper along the shank and ball of thesole, and said tongue having itsv rear portion secured in covering relation to the breast of the heel.

5. A shoe comprising an upper, a sole, said sole beingformed with a flap about its margin. having its free side edges disposed inwardly from the margin ofthe sole, a shield formed integral with said sol'e, the marginal portion fthe upper being disposed against the sole. about margins thereof, stitches passing through the marginal portion ofthe-upa per and through the attached side portion of 1 said flap, and said shield being secured in covering relation to the flap and stitches and the marginal portion of the upper. "6. In a shoe, an upper, a sole therefor, said sole being split inwardly from its marginal edges to provide an underlying strip, said sole above said strip being formed with a marginal shoulder and also provided with an inclined channel forming an adjoining inwardly directed flap, the marginal" portion of the upper being adapted to be secured in said shoulder by stitching through said channel and the strip being adapted to be secured, without stitching, to the marginal portion of said upper to cover the stitching of the latter.

7 The method of making a shoe consist ing in applying an upper to a last without securing means, applying a sole to said last,

shoulder'and'formed with a channel directed toward said shoulder, applying the marginal edges of the upper to the shoulder of said sole, stitching the same thereto through the channel, and securing the strip without stitching, to the marginal portion of said upper to cover the stitching of the latter.v

8. The method of forming a shoe, consisting in stretching an upper overa last, applying'a sole to said last, said sole being split transversely from its marginal edge to. form anunderlying strip, the upper wall of the split portion of the sole above the strip bea ing formed with a marginal offset and formed with achannel directed towardssaid .oflset, drawing the marginal edge of said upper and temporarily securing the same in the marginal offset portion of said sole, stitching the marginal edge of the upper to the oifset through said channel, removing the tempo- .rary securing means for the upper and securing, without stitching, said strip to the stitching thereof.

9. In a shoe structure, a sole of a single piece of material split at the edgesthereof for allowing the insertion of a shoe upper into the interior of said sole, an upper inserted into said split, and concealed stitching arranged between the opposed faces of the sole and substantially parallel to said faces and securing said upper to the inner split portion of the sole onl 4 x 10.. In a shoe. structure, a single sole constituting both the inner sole and the outer sole of the shoe, an upper, and stitching in the interior of 'the sole securing the upper to said sole with the terminal edge portion'of the up per in the interior of said sole, said stitching eing concealed and. arranged between the :ing being concealed and arranged between anl'd substantially parallel to the faces of the so e. a 12. In a shoe structure, a single sole formmg the finished bottom of the shoe, a pair of edge flaps integral with said sole and split from the edge thereof, and having their free edges nearest the edge of the sole, an upper passed over and outside of thefree edge of one ofthe flaps and havin its edge portion covered by said flaps,- an concealed means for securing the upper to the inner edge flap only; a a

13. In a shoe structure, a sole, a pair of edge flaps formed by splittingthe edge of by substantially horizontal concealed stitching between said flaps.

v 14:. In a shoe structure, a sol'e'forming'both the inner sole and the outer sole of the shoe, a pair of edgefflaps on said sole formed by meaaaa the rear outer flap to the front face of the heel.

L9. The method of making a shoe, consisting of splitting a sole along the fore part of the edge thereof, positioning said sole on a last with the grain side out, arranging an upper about the last with the right side out,

splitting the sole along the edge thereof, a stitching the terminal edge of the upper to channel on the inner flap, an upper, stitching the inner split portion of the sole only, and passing through said channel and said upper cementing said sole together at the split for securing the upper to the sole, and means thereof. for securing the outer flap to the inner flap 20. The method of making a shoe, consistand to the upper. ing of partly splitting a sole by a cut directed- 15. In a shoe structure, a sole of a single from the edge of the sole toward its center, piece of material forming the inner sole and and securing the upper to the sole between the outer sole of the shoe, and split along its the inner and outer faces of said sole by stitch-' edge to form an inner and an outer flap, said ing concealed in the interior of the sole and inner flap having an edge channel, and havarranged substantially parallel to the faces ing an inclined seaming channel spaced from of the sole.

', of the inner edge flap, the sole having an said edge channel, an upper arranged in said 21. The method of making a shoe, consistedge channel, stitching passing through said ing of part1 splitting a sole, channelling one upper and through said inclined channel for of the flaps ormed by S0 splitting the sole and securing the upper to the inner flap, and securin the edge Of an 11 per 130 the chancementitious means for securing the outer flap n llcd an and cementing t e other flap on to to the inn r fla and to th u p r, the channel flap and to the edgeof the upper.

16. In a shoe structure, a sole of a single 22- The method of making a shoe, consistpiece of material split at its edge to provide 111g of partly splitting a sole to form two flaps, an outer lip having an unmutilated outer edge nnelling one of the flaps on the face adj aand an inner portion, an upper arranged with cent {)0 the other flap, and securing the termiits terminal edge passing about the periph= I131 dg O an pper t0 the channelled p.- eral edge of the inner portion and extending 23. The method of making a shoe, consistaway from said edge toward the center of the ing of partly splitting a sole, channelling one sole, and covered by said out r li an of the edge flaps of said sole 'on the face adjacgncealed in the interior of the sole for securnt to the other flap, lasting said sole with ing the edge of the upper to said sole, and the gr in face uppermost, lasting an upper means for securing said lip and inner porwith the right side out, securing the upper to tion together with th dg of th u r the channelled flap, and cementing the flaps together, whereby the edge of the upper betherebetween. v

17 In a ho t t r ada t d to b ad comes arranged in the interior of the sole. byasingle lasting operatioma sole split at the 24. In a shoe structure, a sole, edge flaps edges thereof, an upper, and stitching con formed by splitting the edge of said sole tocealed by thesole securing the upper in place ward the ce er thereof, and an upper passed in the split with its terminal edge inthe inte-' outside ofthe edge of one flap and secured to rior of the sole,'said stitching being intersaid sole by stitching arranged between said posed between the faces of the sole and arflaps, and concealed thereby. ranged substantially parallel to said faces. 25. lhe method of making a shoe, consist- 18'. In ashoe structure, a sole of a single ing of temporarily securing a split sole to a piece of material split from the heel to the last with the grain side out, stitching an unbreak and further split along its edge to form I, turned upperin the split of the sole by sub-' an outer flap about the fore part of the sole' stantially horizontal concealed stitching and an inner flap below said outer fiap, said While the sole remains .on the last, and comjnner fl h i m n edge channel for the repleting the shoe while the relative positions of ception of the edge of an upper and having a the secured upper and sole and the last remain second channel spaced from said first channel substantially unchanged.

and substantially parallel thereto, said chan- In testimony whereof I affix my Signature. nels extending about the entire sole inclusive a HENRY LIFSCHUTZ.

v unmutilated edge on the outer flap, an upper cement securing the inner and outer flaps on the forepart of the sole together, and securing arran ed with its terminal, ed e portion in the edge channel of the inner ap, stitching passing through the channels of the inner flap and through the terminal edge of the upper for securing the upperin place, a heel on the rear portion of the rear inner flap, and

Images