US1770134A - Woven fabric - Google Patents

Description

July 8, 1930. l. E. HELLER 1,770,134

WOVEN FABR I C Filed Dec. 18, 1928 v 2 Sheets-Sheet l July 8, 1930. l. E HELLER 1,770,134

WOVEN FABRIC Filed Dec. 18, 1928 2 Sheets$heet 2 Patented July 8, 1930 1 770 134 a UNITED STATES, PATENT :o Fm i i I ISRAEL E. iInLLn' a, OF Barium, new Yo itir, i V

WOVEN r'ABRro 7 Application filed December'18,1928. Serial 7N0. i

The objects of this invention are to provide is a source of large expense to manufacturers a fabric with means at the edges thereof for of garments, since in many cases thepartsof indicating the directions in which the filling the cloth become distorted to such an extent threads of the fabric extend at intervals that they cannot be used inthe manufacture lengthwise of the fabric; also to improve of a garment, without having the garment 5:,

woven fabrics in other respects hereinafter itself misshaped or distorted.

specified.- V y i Investigations as to the cause of this In thejaccompanying drawings: jumping has disclosed the fact that it is i, Fig. 1 is a face view of a portion of a strip duemainly to unequal stresses in the cloth 1c of woven fabric embodying this invention. caused by the cross orf lling threads extend- 60 Fig. 2 is .a face View of similar fabric ing in diiferentangles in diiierentparts of folded over along the line midway-between the cloth. In order to prevent this jump the selvages of the fabric. g of p ts ofthe clo h af r utting,- he Fig. 3:is a face view. of a length of a piece cloth must be-woven with the filling threads '1 of woven fabric,- the view being provided extending exactly at right angles to thelon- 65 In the manufa ture of garn1 nts,'such as process knownas tentering to which the aft tting The l th from which two sired distance apart depending upon the P 5 With certain kinds of cloth this jump the cloth through a drying apparatus and if with lines to indicate the directions of the gitudinal or; warpthreads. In. mostlooins (frogs or filli th d fth fabrig now used, this condition canbe easily con Fi 4 i a i f th f bri how i plied with butwoolen or-worsted fabric must Fig. 3 when foldedon a line approximately be subjected to other processes after weav- 2 midway betweentheselvages. ing, whichprocesses tend to stretchthe cloth 70 Fig.5 is a face view of two corresponding at various points or edges, or to shrink-the portions of a garment'cut from fabric having edges at other points so that there is a tendcross threads therein running in different diency in the cloth to distortion. p 1 rections. Cloth is frequently distorted during the suits from woolen or worsted fabrics, trouble cloth is Subjected shr n g @1 6 Same is freq entlyf xp i d after the c ttin f give the same the desired, uniform width.

the cloth according to. patterns, with the The usual form f t ntcring; 111achine-in-- -j11mping..or changing of shape of the" parts eludes two endless chains spaced at the decorresponding parts of asui-t are out is genwidth desired, on which chains are mounted erally folded alonga' longitudinal central line plns to whlch the selvages of the cloth are at and incutting the cloth from a pattern, two tached while the cloth is beingv stretchedto the parts are cut-at thelsame time; desired width. This endless chain carries ing which takes place after the cutting, rehe 010th is not attached to thevarious pins s ults in the" two parts assuming different in such a manner so that allcross or filling forms from the original pattern. This is threads Xt d 8212601613 fit r g angles '0 th clearly illustrated in Fig. 5 which shows two length of the cloth,-the cloth will be'stretched 40 parts A and A o'f a garment, which parts on one side and contractedgon-the other. This 90 after cutting were separated and then again may occur a number of times in a single piece placed one on .top of theother with their of cloth and when such cloth is thoroughly edges a in alignment." Because of unequal dried, it appears to be straight and it is imstresses in the cloth itself, these two parts possible todjetcct the stretched or contracted n of the garment assume the 'shapes'indicated portions of the fabric, since the cross or fillalthough both parts were cut from thesame ing threads are usually not clearly visible. pattern and at. the same time and from di- When such cloth is folded along-a longirectly opposite sides .of' the same piece of tudinal central'line, it mayappear to bepergoods. fectly even, but whenparts of the garments This jumping of the cloth .aft'ercutting are cut out of the cloth, these parts will resume their natural shapes for the reason that the tension or stretch is released by cutting, and the result is that the cut out parts will not-correspond tolthe pattern from which they are cut, These: conditions are not always eliminated by, the fact that the cloth-- ing inanufacturerssubjectithe cloth to a steam or water shrinking process'before cutting it intogarments. In many cases this shrinking process will allow the cloth tocomeback in its original woven condition, While" wet, but 7 on being again drledand folded, there is, 1 again 'a possibility. of the'edges becoming distorted, thus leaving; thecloth in the same uncertain condition in which it left the mill. Figs. 3 and 4 illustrate the manner in ,whiclrwoolen and worsted-fabrics 'may be distorted. The strip of cloth B in this case has the filling threads near the upper edge arranged correctly at righ angles to the length of the cloth, as indicated'by thedirection line 10. I 4

i The directionlines'11"immediately below the "top edge'of the cloth are'inclined-with reference to'the linelO. The directionlines 12 indicates the filling threads extendi'ngfat a "different inclination, and the angles of these threads are again alternately reversed as indicated by thefline's 13 and 14 respectively. If. these lines were actually present on a'strip of cloth, it could ofcourse bereadily stretched andshrunk to causeall these lines to become parallel, but in plain-colored goods orin goods having small checks ors'tripes running only lengthwise, the directions ofthe filling threads. cannot be deterinined'except at thetwo opposite ends of the cloth.

When clothfof this kind is folded,as is "the 7 custom before the sameiscut, the filling threads will be arranged as shown clearly in Fig. 4,; extendingin different directions in" the two folded halves of the cloth; Conse 'quently whenparts of a suit are cutfrom clothof this kind, the threads in thecutparts tend to straighten themselves ou'tXt'o their normal positions, thus causing thetwo cut each other, each pair being arranged at op' posite ends of a filling thread, and these p airs ,of'indicatorsa're arranged at intervalslength wise offthe fabric'and spaced sufficiently far apart so that 'the'operative's handling the clothcan readily determine which two indicators at OppQSitesidesOf the cloth belong to the same pair. Thepairswof indicators may be arranged at longer distances: apart since'it isnot necessry to check-the cloth at very close intervals in order toprevent distortionintheclothfl i These indicators may be provided at opposite ends of the filling threads in any suit able or desired manner. For example, the indicators may be provided by causing the shuttle carrying the filling thread to travel at certain intervals through distances slightly beyond the selvage, therebyleaving loops of thread at opposite ends of a single travel or stroke of the shuttle. This operation of the shuttle may be repeated at intervals lengthwise 'oftlie cloth tospace the indicators or loops at the desired distances apart. In stead of providing a loop indicator consist- 'ing of a single; loop, a plurality of loops could be formed on a number of adjacent filling threads, by causing the shuttle on several successive strokes to leave loopsbeyondthe selvage; Any other means for provid ing' indicators of this kind at or beyond the selvage ofthe cloth may be used if desired.

In Figs'l and 2,0 represents a length of cloth having a series of projecting threads or indicators cextendingbeyondone selvage of thecloth and corresponding indicators 0 extendingbeyo'nd the other selvage.- When this cloth is folded along 'alongitudinal central line, theindicators c'and 0 will lie -in registration when the filling: threads extend exactly at right angles to the length of the cloth. 20, and 21 represent .the, opposite selvages of the cloth and in Fig.2, 22 represents theufolded. edge thereof. When cloth of this kind isplaced on a centering machine, 7

the operativesc'an readily place the same-on the machine so thatthe filling threadsjextend at right angles to the length by observing the indicators c and cv .on the selvage and positioningthe sameat exactly opposite portions of the endless chains. Similarly a clothing .1nanufacturer, in placing the cloth on a rollza'fter shrinking,ican compare the positions 1 of; the indicators with relation to guide lines or straight edges on the roll, and

in theleventithat the indicators show incor rect relationship of the filling threads,:such

condition can be corrected or the cloth rejected for use in garments.v

Bythe-use of cloth of thiskindand by the described process. of preventinggzdistorr tion therein by the correct arrangement of thefilling threads, the jumping of. cloth after cuttingcan be either entirely=eliminatedor very materially reduced, thereby effecting a large saving onthe part of gar- -ment manufacturers, as well, asimproving the quality of the. garments made'from such cloth. 7 Furthermore cloth made ;in' accordance withmy invention is=no more expensive to produce than cloth Iheretoforemade, since the determining of the correctness of the fillingthreadscan be done at a glance, while in the step ofv tentering, the indicators facilitate 'thenplacing of th'ecloth on the endless chains. Cloth provided with these in dicators 'isnot in any way damagedor injured thereby since in the cutting of the cloth, the portions thereof on which the indicators are formed are not used as parts of the garments.

Claims:

1. A woven fabric having filling threads, some of which have portions visible on both sides of the fabric at the side edges thereof to indicate the opposite ends of a filling thread, said projecting portions being arranged at substantial distances from each other, to indicate the directions in which the filling threads extend.

2. A woven fabric having some of its fill- E ing threads, at substantial distances lengthwise of the fabric, provided withfportions projecting beyond the side edges of the fabric at opposite ends of a transverse length of filling thread, to indicate the directions in Which the filling threads extend.

3. A woven fabric having indicating'parts at the opposite edges thereof at opposite ends of a filling thread and positioned at substantial distances from each other lengthwise of the fabrio,to indicate the directions in which the filling threads extend.

i. A woven fabric provided with indicators on the selvedges thereof, said indicators being readily visible from both sides of the cloth and being arranged in pairs, the two indicators of a pair being arranged at opposite ends of the same filling thread, each pair of indicators being spaced from adjacent pairs at substantial distances length wise of the fabric.

5. A woven fabric having selvedges at opposite sides thereof, said selvedges being provided with clearly visible indicators arranged in pairs, the two indicators of a pair being arranged at opposite ends of the same filling thread, to enable the direction of the filling thread to be readily determined.

ISRAEL E. HELLER.

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