US1763822A - Machine for shaping shoe uppers - Google Patents

Description

June 17, l930. E. E. ROWE MACHINE FOR SHAPI NG SHOE UPPERS Filed Nov. 27, 1926 Patented June 17, 1930 UNETEE STATEfi PATENT crates EDGAR E. ROWE, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY MACHINE FOB SHAPING SHOE UPPERS Application filed November 27, 1926. SerialNo. 151,203.

This invention relates to machines for shaping shoe upper materials over a form or last, and is herein illustrated in its application to means for lasting the heel end portion of a shoe of the stitchdown type; It is to be understood, however, that in some of its aspects the invention is not limited in utility to means for operating upon shoes of thatparticular type.

In the manufacture of some kinds of stitch down shoes the margin of the heel end portion of the upper materials is formed to exmargin of the upper in front of the heel seatis turned outwardly inthe manner characteristic of shoes of the stitchdown type, the margin of the upper being cut or slit at the junction of the inturned and outturned portions at each side of the shoe. For shaping the heel'end portion of the upper materials of a shoe of this kind it is convenient tomake use of an upper-forming or lasting machinefor example, a machine of the type illustrated in United States Letters Patent 7 No. 1,588,044, granted on May 4, 1926, upon an application of Charles H. Hoyt. It is an object of this invention to provide in such a machine means for cutting or slitting the margin of the upper, thus eliminating the need for the use of a hand knife as customary heretofore, and thereby economizing in time and labor as well as insuring accuracy and uniformity in the location of the slits in the upper. Machines of the type shown in the above-mentioned patent are provided with mechanism for driving fastenings to fasten the margin of the upper to the insole, and in the embodiment of the invention herein illustrated devices for cutting or slitting the margin of the upper are carried by the fastening mechanism and are so arranged as to form slits in the margin at the opposite sides of the shoe in locations substantially at the front end of the heel seat as the fastenings are driven. The operative movement of the cutting devices isthus transverse to the plane of the insole; and the invention further provides means for limiting the depth of the cut by engagement with the shoe materials. In order to avoid interference with the proper driving of the fastenings, the construction shown also includes a yielding connection between the driving means and the cutting means, so that the driving means may continue its movement when movement of the cutting means is stopped.

The invention will now be more particularly described by reference to the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a view partly in front elevation and partly in section showing a portion of a machine of the type shown in the above-mentioned Letters Patent, with the present invention embodied therein;

Fig. 2 is a front view of one of the sid driver bars detached, with upper-slitting means mounted thereon;

Fig. 3 is a side view of the parts shown in Fig. 2; and

Fig. 4 isa perspective view of a shoe as it appears after the operation of the machine thereon.

The shoe shown in Fig. 4: to illustrate one of the uses of the invention is a stitchdown shoe of that type in which a full-length insole a is utilized. The upper materials comprise a leather upper 12, a lining c, and a counter d, which may or may not be a previously molded counter, located between the lining and the upper. In accordance with the mode of procedure illustrated, the lining is completely lasted before the leather upper, and its marginis cementedto the insole. Thereafter the heel seat lasting operation is performed on the upper. For this purpose there may be conveniently utilized a machine of the type shown in the above-mentioned patent. The shoe is mounted on a shoe support 10, and by movement of the shoe support is presented in operative relation to the lasting instrumentalities, the construction of which is more fully shown and described in said patent. In the operation of the machine the upper materials are clamped about the heel end by a heel band 12, and the margin of the upper is then wiped inwardly over the heel seat by means of wipers 14. In this operation the margin of the counter also is wiped inwardly if an unmolded counter is used; otherwise the upper is wiped inwardly over the previously molded counter flange. For fastening the margin of the upper materials in overwiped position, there are provided about the heel end of the shoe a plurality of fastening devices which are moved inwardly over the shoe bottom into proper position for driving the several fastenings, for example, lasting tacks. There are shown in Fig. 1 the fastening oevices which operate at the sides of the shoe adjacent to the front end of the heel seat, these devices comprising carriers 16 which are moved laterally of the shoe into upper-fastening position. Mounted in the carriers 16 for operative movements in directions transverse to the plane of the heel seat are driver bars 18 provided with tack drivers 20 which drive tacks from tack pockets or holders 22 through the margin of the upper materials and into the insole. It will be noted that the driver bars 18 are movable in directions somewhat inclined to the plane of the insole, so that the tacks are driven in inwardly inclined directions.

For purposes of this invention there is mounted on each of the front driver bars 18 a device for forming a slit or cut in the margin of the upper transversely of its edge, comprising a knife holder 24; and a knife or cutter 26 mounted thereon. It will be observed that while the cutter 26 extends in the same inclined direction as the driver bar 18, its cutting edge is so formed as to extend in substantially parallel relation to the plane of the insole and is of such length as to slit the upper from its inner edge outwardly as far as the edge of the shoe bottom. The cutters 26 are thus arranged to slit the upper in locations substantially at the front end of the heel seat, and, as illustrated in Fig. 4, somewhat in the rear of the front ends of the inturned flange of the counter d. It is desirable that the cutters 26 cut only through the thickness of the leather upper, and the lower end of each knife holder 2 1 is therefore provided with a shoulder 28 for engaging the upper to limit the depth of the cut. By means of a slot 30 formed a in the knife 26 co-operating with a guiding pin and a clamping screw 34: on the holder 2 1,. the cutter26 is adjustably mounted so that. its cutting edge may be always positioned at adistance below the shoulder 28 substantially equal to the thickness of the upper.

In order that the means for limiting the movement of the cutter 26 may not interfere with-the proper driving of the tacks,

3: each holder 24 is movably mounted 011 its driver bar 18, so that the driver bar may continue its movement after movement of the cutting device is stopped by engagement of the shoulder 28 with the upper. For this i 2 purpose the holder 2 i-has a projection tliereon slidably mounted in a guideway 36 in the driver bar 18 and is provided with slots 38 tln'ougli which screws 40 extend into the driver bar for retaining the holder slidably in place. Mounted in sockets in the driver bar 18 and engaging an offset portion of the holder are springs 4-2 which are of sufficient strength not to yield in the cutting operation but only after the shoulder 28 at the lower end of the holder 24- has engaged the upper.

It will thus be seen that there is provided means which acts automatically in the upper-fastening operation to form a slit in the margin of the upper in front of the row of heel seat fastenings at each side of the shoe, substantially at the front end of the heel seat, so that the margin of the upper in front of the heel seat may be turned outwardly in the manner characteristic of stitehdown shoes.

lVhile the invention is illustrated by reference to the manufacture of a shoe provided with a full-length insole, it is a wellknown fact that shoes of the stitchdown type are sometimes made with a part which has the function of an insole at the heel end of the shoe but extends forwardly only for a portion of the length of the shoe, and it is accordingly to be understood that the term insole is used in the claims is not to be construed as necessarily limited to a fulllength insole such as shown in the draw ings.

Having described the invention. what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is 1. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping the margin of the heel end of a shoe upper to produce an inturned flange, and means for drivingv fastenings to fasten said flange to an insole, of mechanism mounted in predetermined relation to said driving means for forming slits in the margin of the upper in front of said fastenings at definite distances from the fastenings to permit the margin in front of the slits to be turned outwardly.

2. In a machine of the class described, the con'ibination with wipers for wiping the margin of the heel end of a shoe upper inwardly over an insole, and means for fastening the upper to the insole, of mechanism operative in automatically determined time relation to said fastening means to form slits in the margin of the upper substantially at the front end of the heel seat.

3. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping over a form the heel end portion of upper materials comprising a leather upper, a counter and a lining, of automatic means arranged to operate substantially at the front end of the heel seat to form slits in the margin of the upper only.

1. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping over a form the heel end portion of upper materials comprising a leather upper, a counter and a lining, and for wiping the margin of the upper inwardly to produce an inturned portion lying over an inturned flange of the counter, of mechanism arranged to form, in the margin of the upper only, slits located substantially at the front end of the heel seat at the rear of the front ends of the counter flange.

5. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping the margin of the heel end of a shoe upper to produce an inturned flange, of cutters arranged to cut the margin of the upper at each side substantially at the front end of the heel seat, and means associated with said cutters for limiting the depth of the cut by engagement with the shoe materials.

6. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping over a form the heel end portion of upper materials comprising a leather upper, a counter and a lining, of cutters movable to cut the margin of the upper at each side substantially at the front end of the heel seat, and means movable with said cutters into engagement with the upper to limit the depth of the cut to the thickness of the upper.

7. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping the margin of the heel end of a shoe upper to produce an inturned flange, and means for driving fastenings to fasten said flange to an insole, of mechanism carried by said driving means for slitting themargin of the upper substantially at the front end of the heel seat.

8. In a machine of the class described, the combination with means for shaping the margin of the heel end of a shoe upper to produce an inturned flange, and means for driving fastenings to fasten said flange to an insole, of cutters carried by said driving means for slitting the margin of the upper at each side substantially at the front end of the heel seat, and means movable with said cutters for limiting the depth of the cut by engagement with the shoe materials, the cutters being yieldably connected to the driving means to permit said driving means to continue its movement when the movement of the cutters is stopped. V

9. In a machine of the class described, the

combination with means for wiping the mar-' gin of the heel end of a shoe upper inwardly over a form, and tackers movable inwardly into positions for driving upper-fastening tacks in predetermined relation to'the edge of the shoe bottom, of cutters movable with said tackers into positions determined by the tackers for slitting the inturned margin of the upper in predetermined relation to the edge of the shoe bottom in the tack-driving operation.

10. In a machine of the class described, the combination with shoe-positioning means, of means for driving a fastening to fasten the margin of the shoe upper to the insole, and a cutter controlled by said driving means for slitting the margin of the upper.

11. In a machine of the class described, the combination with shoe-positioning means, of a driver bar for driving a fastening to fasten the margin of the shoe upper to the insole, and a cutter carried by said driver bar for slitting the margin of the upper simultaneously with the driving of a fastening.

12. In a machine of the class described, the combination with shoe-positioning means, of a driver bar for driving a fastening to fasten the margin of the shoe upper to the insole, and a cutter carried by said driver bar for slitting the margin of the upper, said cutter being yieldingly controlled to permit the driver bar to continue its movement when movement of the cutter is stopped.

13. In a machine of the class described, the combination with shoe-positioning means, of a driver bar for driving a fastening to fasten the margin of the shoe upper to the insole, and means carried by said driver bar for cut ting the margin of the upper and also for engaging the shoe materials to limit the depth of the cut, said means being yieldingly mounted on the driver bar to prevent it Igroin limiting the driving movement of said 14;. In a machine of the class described, the combination with a shoe-positioning means, of a driver bar for driving a fastening to fasten the margin of the shoe upper to the insole, a cutter holder carried by said driver bar and movable thereon in directions substantially parallel to the direction of the operative movement of said bar, a cutter on said holder for cutting the margin of the upper, said holder having a shoulder thereon for engaging the upper to limit the depth of the cut, and spring means controlling said cutter and holder yieldable' to permit the driver bar to continue its movement when A movement of the cutter is stopped.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to th1s specificatlon.

EDGAR E. ROWE.

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