US1729727A - Two-unit welting - Google Patents

Description

Oct. 1, 1929. HILYQN Twommq: WELTING Filed Jan. 7, 1928 Patented Oct. 1, 1929 i i v I UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE HARRY LYON, F HOLBROOK, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO PERLEY E. BARBOUR, OF QUINCY, MASSACHUSETTS, DOING BUSINESS .AS BARBOUR WELTING COMPANY TWO-UNIT WELTING Application filed January 7, 1928. Serial no. 245.209.

This invention relates to welting and more the requisite finished appearance in the comparticularly to the manufacture of two-unit pleted shoe is obtained without the necessity welting known to the trade by the general of incorporating a third element such as a designation cork-sole or simply calk covering strip for the top unit.

5 welting. In the embodiment of the invention illus- The characteristic feature of cork-sole welttrated in the drawing the top and. bottom ing consists of a unit secured to the inner marunits of the welting are designated and 12 gin of the upper face of a strand of Goodyear respectively (Figs. 3 and 4:)- The bottom or similar welting so that when the welting unit 12 may be the same, or suliistantially the 10 is built into a. shoe this top unit lies in the Same, as astrand of Goodyear welting having 60 welt crease. a grain face 13, a stitch-receiving groove 14 Heretofore the top unit has been formed of in the opposite flesh faceand a bevel 15 at its a strip of low grade material requiring a inner edge topromote flexibility in fitting the covering strip to give it a finish comparable .welting into the shoulder of the insole (see 1 to the finished parts of a shoe adjacent which Fig. 4) or,

it lies. The object of the present invention The top unit 10 is triangular, the cross-see is to produce a two-unit welting that will pro-, tion preferably being that of a right-triangle.

vide the requisite finish without the addition and it is produced as follows. ,A piece of of covering material. I flexible grain leather 16 (known as welting 20 To the achievement of this object the invenleather) of indeterminate width'and length,

tion comprises a novel method of forming the 1s severed by parallel lengthwise cuts, so retop-unit; a novel mode of preparing and aslated to each other as to produce triangular sembling simply the two units to complete av strips 10 of the desired proportions. The two-unit welting; and the novel two unit bottom unit 12 may be of varying width and welting as an article of manufacture, as herethickness to accommodate the requirements inafter described and then'particularly point} of-shoe manufacturers, but it is proposed to ed out in the appended claims; {Q produce a top unit from the leather piece 16 The preferred form of the invention is inns of such proportions that it will function proptrated in the accompanying drawings, in" "erly when assembled with any size of bottom 30 which: 1 unit. The dimensions selected as most desir- Figure 1 is a view, in perspective, of one able for the triangular top unit are a short end of a piece of grain leather showing how (grain) side of A and a long (flesh) side top units are severed therefrom; I 1 of 3 g at right angles to the short side, but

Fig. 2 is a view, in perspective, of one end these dimensions are not fixed and may be of a strip forming a top unit prepared for varied without departing from the invention. securement toa bottom-unit to complete the? Accordingly a leatherpiece 16 havinga thicknovel welting; 1 v; ness of eg-"is striped lengthwise by cuts 17,

Fig. 3 is a-.view,nin perspective, ofone; end separated by of grain which surfaces of a strand of two-unit welting prepared eventua ly form the grain faces 18 of the top practising-thelprocess of this iHVQDtIOHJ, and unitstrips, these cuts being parallel and per- Fig. 1- ,isfajview, inpenspective, ofa' porpendicular to the grain face so that there is a tion of a shoe mm which welting having the right-angle between the grain and the flesh characteristic features of this invention has exposed by the cut. The rectangular strips been built. y thus produeedare then severed on a diagonal 1 The -corlr sole welting produced under the by parallel cuts 19 and the portions 20, having teaching of this invention is strictly a twothree flesh sides, are discarded as-Waste. unit welting, i.'.j e.'. it consists of the. top and Stripping the leather piece 16 in this manner bottom units and no more, Atthe same time produces a right-triangular strip 10 having themode of producing the top unit'and the a grain side face 18 that is wide, a flesh anode of assembling the two units is such that side face 22 that is wide and a flesh hy- 1 grain face, said to pothenuse face 24. The sequence and nature 'of the cutting steps in producing the strips 10 from the leather piece 16 is immaterial pro-- vided the described triangular top unit strip is eventually obtained.

The top-unit 10 is laid along the inner margin of the bottom unit 12 (see Fig. 3) with its widest face 2% against the grain of the bottom unit and with its grain side face 18 facing outward. This position causes the flesh side face 22 to lie against the shoe upper 26 (see Fi l) when the welting is stitched to the shoe, and the soft, spongy nature of the flesh enables the calking strip 10 to yield and conform toall inequalities of the welt crease and thus to hug the upper throughout its top edge.

Preferably the top unit or call: 10 is secured to the bottom unit by a dry thread seam 28 which is hidden from view in the completed shoe. To provide a smooth face 22 to lie against the upper the seam 28 is sunk into or buried in the surface, i. e. fudge-stitched, and to this end the face 22 is slit longitudinally as at 30. Preferably the plane of the seam 28 is such that it lies outside the inseam 32 (Fig. 4).

The novel welting may be secured to the insole 34 and outsole 36 of the shoe by usual methods.

\Vhen builtinto the shoe the welting presents a grain shoulder 18 in the welt crease comparable in finish to the adjacent grain 13 of the welt strand 12, and the upper edgeof the calk 10, or angle between its side faces 18 and 22, is conformed tightly and neatly to the upper, all without, the use of any material other than welting leather. Either of the flesh faces 22 or 24 may be laid against the upper to vary the style of the trim in the welt crease.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and its preferred embodiment and method of manufacture having been specifically described, what is claimed as new,

.of a bottom unit substantially rectangular in cross-section having a grain face and a topnnit'triangular in cross-section having one -unit being secured to the grain face of the ottom unit with its grain face facing outward. 2. All-leather welting consisting of two units, one being a strand of grain Goodyear welting and the other being a strip of righttriangular cross-section out from welting leather in a manner to preserve the grain on.

one of the side faces of the strip, said two units being assembled with the strip lying with its hypothenuse face against the grain of the strand along the inner margin thereof and with its grain side face facing outward.

3. All-leather welting consisting of top and bottom units, the top unit thereof comprising a strip of triangular cross-section having one grain face and two flesh faces lying at the face in engagement therewith and its grain face forming an outwardly facing shoulder, and fastemngs-along the inner flesh face of nner margin of the bottom unit with one flesh 7 said strip passing from one unit into the other for securing them together. I 4. All-leather welting consisting offtop and bottom units, the-top unit thereof comfrom the flesh, and one flesh face havinga longitudinal slit therein to receive and pry. a seam for securing the two units together. 7

6. The method of making all-leather twounit welting which includes the steps of preparing a bottom unit strand of substantially rectangular cross-section from grain leather, preparing a top unit strip of triangular crossseetion by severing a strip of quadrilateral cross-section from grain leather and then dividing said strip on a diagonal, discarding the portion that has no grain face, then securing the triangular grain face strip to said strand in position to form an outwardly facing grain shoulder.

7 A welt shoe having an insole, an upper and a cork-sole welt secured thereto, the bottom unit of said cork-sole welt consisting of a strand of grain Goodyear welting and the top -unit consisting of a strip of triangular cross-section having one grain face and lying in the crease of the shoe with its grain face exposed and forming a continuationofthe grain. face of said bottom unit, said topiand bottom units being secured together b'ylceii cealed fastening means, and an outsole se cured to the bottom unit of said cork-sole welt.

" LYON.

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