US1691167A - Method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

Nov. 13, 1928.

A. L. POSTMAN METHOD OF MAKING SHOES FiedNov. 19, 1925 2 Sheets-Sheet INVENTOR /a/za/YZ-faffmazz M ATroRNEY A. L. POSTMAN METHOD oF MAKING SHOES Nov. 13, 1928. 1,691,167

Filed Nov.19, 1925 2 sheets-sheet 2 INVENTOR I ra/mm Pama/z f6 1 f m S-1 M ATroRNEY LPanama Nov. 13, 1928.`

UNITED, STTES'T marce.

ABRAHAM L. lrosrivmn, oFBBooKLYm .NEW YORK.

METHonor MAKING sirens.

i, Application led November method of producingV shoes Without thef necessity of, turning the uppen t Another object of this invention is the effective. method of attaching to the upperl the-sole of a 'shoe by means of`t'ransv`erse sewing, i. e. in such a wayfthatthe stitches are disposed in transverse direction to the `thickness of thesole.4 l l .y

`Anotherobject of m i invention is ytopro-V vide a temporary inso etused in my process by means of'ivhichthe upper mayfbe temporarily attached to thelast-'forsucha time as is necessary to shape'the upper to the contour of the last. l Another object Vof, my inventiony is vthe finished product produced by my process.f 4The foregoingand further oh3ects Willjbe more -fully apparent from thefOllOWmg de'. scription and the accompanying drawings, 25 forming part of, this disclosure, 'and in Which- .1'

Figure 1 represents `a cross-section through my temporary insole, 1

Figure 2 is a partial top view of a lastto which my temporary insole' is ytemporarily attached, f W Figure is a side. elevation-of the last showing theinsole attached,`

Figure 4 is a partialtop view-of a last to which ,is attached a temporary insole yand an upper,

Figure 5 is a cross-sectional `view taken on line 5 5 through Figuret, Y Figure 6 isa cross-sectional view through the upper, the temporary insole and the sole attached to the upper, o

'Figure-7 shows a similar,crossfsectional view to that of Figure 6 with the temporary insole removed,

Figure .8 illustrates the temporary insole removed after it has served its`purpose, f Figure 9 is a cross-sectional vieiv'through the finished shoe having a socl; lining `inserted, covering theline y0f attachnientbef- `ing the last, 12 `so as to. -overlap with its tween the upper and thesole,

Figure 10 illustratesa `staple usedfor temporarily attaching the temporaryinsole to the upper beforev attaching the sole, g Figure 11 illustrateslthe same Ystaple 1n `its forin ,`iwhile `holding the vtemporary insole and the upper together.

Before commencing the yspecific description of'my method I deem it essential for the purpose of comparison to enumerate. a

few heretofore used methodsof producing shoes." Q .y

L'Ihefold Way of shaping the upper Von a last l` vand, then inverting it after the sole has beenattached is one yof the lprincipal Waysused up lto IioW. `The turningof `the upper yhas"marked disadvantages which are ,Well-known and need no'explanation. To

overcome these disadvantages many other Amethods have been employed whichl are known under various knarines, and produce moreor less cumbersome shoes `Without. reducing materially the costof manufacture. In most casesthese methodsachieve bulky, uncomfortable footwear` because of additional means inserted to accomplish the result sought.`

. `As ivillfbe evident kfronithe following description inyunethod is not only new` but .most efficient and inexpensive, and produces an article which 1s not .only comfortable to Wear, but durable in its use. l

."M'y process consists principally in elimi-v natingjthe heretofore used permanently attached insole and Ishall ina general Way describe the manner in which I produce shoes.- f .Y t Referring yto the drawings numeral 10 denotes alst-iff andtough sheet of the outline of the soleAt its periphery there ispro- 4vided a flexible strip '11 Whichis preferably `sevved to the sheet in sucha Way as to previde a firm connection ybetween the sheet and fthelstrip atone edge of the latter,'\`vhile itsother or inner. edgeis free., This insole f comprisesthe subject matter of my copending V'application Ser. No. 92,173, `filed March 4,1926. i

- In Figures 2 and 3 Willbe seen a last `12 towhich my temporary insoleis temporarily attached by means ofnails 13.y `The upper of the shoe shown in Fignresd and 5 and indicatedat llt isprovided with a doubler and is attached Withthe doubler faccontour of the;temporary` -insole 'coincides with the shape of the lastbut is considerably derneath the strip 11 and in outward direc- Y portion is bentupy as shown in brokenlinesv tion.4 Thisst-apling is done in such a Way that in the vspaces between `nails I15 a staple indicated at 16 is passed through ythe material vof strip' 11 and the edge of theA upper.

`In this'ifvay the upperv is ,now secured tothelast vand is shaped to the lattefsform in the ordinary well-known Way. The yupper is permitted to set. Hereafter the 'nails holding down the ltemporary insole A and ythe periphery nails holding down the uppei` are removed Vand the last is 'extracted from the noivkpermanently shaped upper. n

VAV shoe sole 1,7 is prepared by slitting oi' channeling its yedge at'` a` slant. The slit in Figure 6 at 18'fand the sole Ais now attached/by means of vertical ,sewingI to the upper as indicatedy at 19. I v

. I particularly pointfout the fact that kthe sewing is done substantially at right angles to the thickness of the sole because ot' the importance of this feature. Vhen the/shoe is yWorn andthe sole thinned downv duek to Wear until the stitches 19 touch t-he ground, these stitches will Wear down evenly ltogether With the sole and form so to yspeak rivets which will securely hold the ,soletogether withl the upper until the sole is "Worn out. After sewing thesoleto the upper yandturning the flap 1.8 ot'the soleftoA its original position as shown in .Figure 7 ,the temporary insole 10 is removed and with the temporary insole lalso the staples 'are Withdrawn 'from the upper.

drawal from the shoe. and showing fat `16 thedisconnected staples. i The n nished product is shown in cross'section in Figure 9 Which comprisesthe upper 14,l the doubler 14', the sole `17 stitched together at 19 with the upper and a sock lining 20 which is overlapping the attached edge of thenpper and the stitchedportion .Where the soleis attached tothe up er.

Fronithe foregoing it Willbe evidentthat Y my 'methodeliminatesthe turning ofthe upper and italsc eliminates a "cumbersome insole which is'attach'ed usually to the 'upper and which Vcauses discomfort to the wearerl Yaside fromthe fact that it is costly.

Mymethodals/o eliminates the application of paddingsor 'heavyAk insoles necessary `to.

coverl [the r4tinus/ually highly protruding l 1 The temporary insole is' shown in Figure 8 asit looks after its with? stitches caused by .the employment of a permanent insole or a Weltemployed heretotore. `Theproduct of my method is a light, durable, simple, inexpensive and most comtortable footwear in which the upper is Hdirectly attached to thersole and Where aninsole or welt-served to the upper ris entirely eliminated. f f

-While I have described vmy, method and Vi'vhile Ifhave specilied certain means cmployed in my inethod,l shall not be limited to itsexact Wording or showing, and I theretore reserve theright to make such changes and improvements Within the scope of my invention aswill become necessary to ystill tui-ther increase tliegetiiciency and decrease the cost of production.

I claim'zl y' l y 1. The process of producing shoes and the like, which comprises attaching a temporary insole provided with a `peripheral strip, 'to a last,.attaching anu'pperto the last so that its edge roverlaps the edge of saidtemporary insole, stapling the strip of the insoletogether with the` edge of said upper, permitting the upper to set and shape itself Ato the -form of the last, removing the means of attachment holdingthetemporary insole and upper to the last, removing the last, sewing apsole to the upper and 'removing the temporary insole. i'

. 2. The process of producing shoes and the l like, `whichcomprises, attaching to ay last a temporary insole provided With peripheral attaching strip, temporarily'attaching an upper tothe last, for the purpose of shaping and setting it, in suoli a Way thatthe attached edge of the upper overlaps the edge of said temporary insole, temporarily] staplingthe edgeof the upper tothe lstrip of the temporary.v insole, permittiiigtheupper to upper lfrom the last, removingthe last,sew ing alsole to the upper at a line located heyoiid the `outer, yedge of said temporary insole, and removing the latter and the staples Whichheld the upper and the temporary insole together. f v

3. The process of producing shoes andthe like, which comprises, attaching to a lastv a temporary insole having a peripheral at taching strip, temporarily attaching to the last an upper so that its edge overlaps the attaching strip ofthe temporary insole, the points of temporary attachment of said upper being located beyond the periphery ot said temporary insole, stafpling together lthe 'overlapping edge of said upper and the at tacliing strip of said temporary insole .at points lying between the pointsof'temporary attachment of Ysaid upper, permitting the upper to Seton the'lastQremOv-ing the means 'slitting theutrledgeiof .Seleand JSwing set, detaching the temporary insole and the CII 1t to "the upper in perpendicular direction of said upper and the attaching strip of said temporary insole at points disposed between the points of temporary attachment of said y upper, said stapling being done from under the attaching strip of said temporary insole and lin outward direction, permitting the upper to set and take the shape of the last, detaching from the last the temporary insole and the upper and removing the last, slitting the edge of a sole and sewingy it to the upper and lining at a line beyond the periphery of said temporary insole, and in perpendicular direction to the sole, and removing the temporary insole together with `the staples from within the shoe. y

. Signed at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York.

ABRAHAM L. POSTMAN.

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