US1673785A - Turn shoe - Google Patents

Turn shoe Download PDF

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US1673785A
US1673785A US113183A US11318326A US1673785A US 1673785 A US1673785 A US 1673785A US 113183 A US113183 A US 113183A US 11318326 A US11318326 A US 11318326A US 1673785 A US1673785 A US 1673785A
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shoe
sole
lining
inseam
inner sole
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US113183A
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Lyndon V Grover
Sarra Frank
Adelbert A Durkee
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J J GROVER S SONS Co
J J GROVER'S SONS Co
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J J GROVER S SONS Co
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/08Turned footwear

Definitions

  • This invention pertains to footwear and more particularly to turn shoes. Principal objects of the invention are to provide a turn shoe which truly conforms in shape and size to the last upon which it was made; to produce a shoe having a lining substantially free from wrinkles and capable of sustaining its share at least of the expansive stresses of use; to provide a shoe having a reinforced or backed upper wherein the reinforce or backing material is free from wrinkles and is strong and heavy enough to enable it substantially to relicvethe outer member of the upper of the stresses incident to wear; and to provide a turn shoe having a sole whose inner surface is freer from inequalities than the soles of turn shoes made by usual methods, the present application being a part continuation of our copending application Serial No. 8705, filed February 12, 1925.
  • the upper which is commonly of multi-ply construction including several superposed pieces of substantially the same configuration, for example an outer member of leather, satin or other suitable material, a lining consisting of thin leather or textile fabric, and one or more interposed layers of reinforce material, is turned Wrong the sole.
  • the surplus material of the upper projecting from the inseam is now trimmed oif and the shoe is turned right side out so that the layer or ply of'the upper which engaged the last during the lasting operation becomes the outer member of the shoe, while the lining, which during lasting and sewing was the exposedouter member of the upper, now forms the interior surface of the upper.
  • the upper including its several plies or layers be of substantial thickness, it is manifest that the lining which is wrapped around the other members of the upper during the side out before lasting sothat when applied inseam spaced just inside of the. edge of lasting operation must necessarily be of greater circumferential extent than that of the ply of the upper which was in direct contact with the last.
  • the result of this is that when the shoe is turned the lining becomes slack, thus producing unsightly wrinkles which, unless they can be eliminated, cause discomfort to the wearer and prevent the lining fromcarrying any substantial part of the expansive pressure of use.
  • the wrinkles produced in a lining may to a certain. extent be removed superficially by subsequent smoothing operations, it is impossible to take out the wrinkles or bunches occurring in the. reinforce as the latter is in a wholly inaccessible position bet-ween the outer member and lining.
  • the lining may be strong and substantial and well able to bear a part of the expansive stress, it also is so sla'ck actually, even though the wrinkles may have been rubbed smooth, as to escape any substantial part of its share in the duty of opposing the expansive forces of wear, and the entire strain is thus thrown upon the outer member of the upper which is not intended to carry any such load.
  • the shoe is relasted immediately upon turning by forcing a last into it and as the tempered shoe dries upon the last it shrinks and assumes substantially its final form.
  • an inner sole, shank piece, and sometimes other elements are inserted in the shoe and securedto the upper surface of the sole to impart a finished appearance, with the result that the actual size of the space inside the shoe becomes less than that supposedly determined by the last upon which it was relasted.
  • Fig. 1 is a side elevation showing the improved shoe at the completion of the lasting process and at the beginning of the formation of the inseam, certain parts of the upper being broken away to show underlying plies thereof
  • Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same shoe after the completion of the inseam and after the shoe has been turnedand removed from the last. the lining being shown as drawn upwardly and out of the top of the shoe;
  • Fig. 3 is a fragmentary longitudinal vertical section through the fore part of the shoe, with the lining positioned as in Fig. 2;
  • Fig. 4 is a fragmentary plan viewof the fore part of the shoe with the upper split along the central line of the shoe and drawn apart to show the method of laying the lining upon the bottom of the shoe;
  • Fig. 5 is a plan view showing a combined inner sole and shank piece preferably employedin making the improved shoe
  • Fig. 6 is a transverse section to larger scale on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5;
  • Fig. 7 is a plan view of the completed shoe 'designates the shoe sole.
  • Fig. 8 is a bottom view of the shoe shown in Fig. 7.
  • Fig. 9 is a transverse section on the line 9-9 of Fig. 7 to larger scale
  • Fig. 10 is a similiar section on the line 10 10 of Fig. 7;
  • Fig. 11 is a perspective view illustrating a tool useful in positioning the inner sole
  • Fig. 12 is a View similiar to Fig.7 but illustrates the shoe as provided with an inner sole adapted to position a remedial pad;
  • Fig. 13 is a view similiar to Fig. 12 but showing the upper ply of the inner sole tuiglned back for inserting or removing the a 2 p
  • Fig. 14 is a fragmentary longitudinal section substantially on the line 1414 of Fig. 12;
  • Fig. 15 is a plan view of a preferred form of inner sole for use in making the shoe of Figs. 12, 13 and 14;
  • Fig. 16 is a section on line 1616 of Fig. 15.
  • the numeral 1 n In accordance with usual methods of lasting turn shoes, this sole is placed with its wear surface against the bottom of the last 2 a'nd is secured temporarily thereto by tacks or other usual securing means.
  • the upper 3 as usual comprises a lining 4, a backing or interlining 5 and an outer member 7.
  • the lining may also comprise a toe stiffener 6 interposed between the lining and the reinforce or backing material 5.
  • the lining l as here illustrated comprises a forward portion of textile fabric and a rear portion 8 of thin leather, for example, sheepskin. which is secured to the forward .portion of the lining by means of a sewed seam 9.
  • the various parts of the upper are stitched together in the usualmanner, forming seams such as 10 and 11, (Fig. 2) and after the parts of the upper have thus been assembled and united the completed upper is turned inside out.
  • the lining 4 is slit or gashed inwardly from its edge as-indicated at 12 and 13 respectively at points at either side of the toe of the upper.
  • One .or more additional gashes may also be provided if desired as indicated for example at 12' and 13.
  • These'slits are preferably formed in the general neiglr borhood of the rear edges of the toe stiflener free from the last except at its forward por tion P which is drawn over the last with the other parts of the upper in usual manner and temporarily held in position by tacks as above described.
  • the port-ions of the lining rearward of the' splits, or gashes 12 and 13 are turned down as shown in Fig. 1, the upper and sole being united by the sewed inseam 16 comprising stitches of usual type engaging a. stitch receiving element preferably spaced from the edge of the sole, such element preferably consisting of a lip formed in any desired manner, as for example by channeling the outer sole, the stitches of the inseam being received in said channel.
  • the completed inseam extends entirely around the ClIuL1111feienceof the shoe, but during the sewing operation all that part of the lining to the rear of the slits 12 and 13 remains turned down so that it is not bound in to the inseam except atthe toe of the shoe.
  • the lining is now pulled up and out of the shoe as indicated in Fig. 2 so that the unattached lower edge 15 of the lining occupies the position shown in the latter figure.
  • the toe stiffener 6 may be shaped in accordance with usual methods to the shoe and laid smoothly in overlapping 3 laterally spaced inseams.
  • the numeral 19 designates an insole of any suitable material, for example leather, leatherboard, or the like.
  • a shank piece 20 is attached to the inner sole 19 by means of a staple 21 or other fastening means.
  • the shank piece 20 is preferably furnished with the usual steel 22 attached thereto by rivets 23 and 24;.
  • An opening 25 is provided extending through the steel and shank piece near the junction of the latter with the inner sole.
  • the forward end of the inner sole 19 is furnished with a loop or staple 26 located at the extreme end of the inner sole where it will not interfere with the comfort of the wearer.
  • the bottoms of the inner sole and shank piece are coated with cement and by means of a suitable instrument engaged in the loop 26 of the inner sole, the latter, together with the shank, is pushed into the shoe until the sock lining is properly positioned within the toe portion of the latter.
  • An instrument suitable for the purpose is shown in Fig. 11 comprising a handle 28 carrying a. stem 29 terminating at 30 in a shouldered point adapted to be inserted in the loop 26.
  • the stem 29 carries a trowel-like blade 31 for holding the inner sole flat.
  • the rear end of the shank piece is next attached to the sole ,by means of tacks 2i? and a rivet 27 is passed through the shank piece, steel, overlapping portions of the lining and the sole 1 of the shoe and is headed over so as to secure these parts permanently together.
  • the shoe is now relasted by pushing the relasting last straight forward into the shoe, the fore part of the last sliding readily along the smooth upper surfaces of the shank and inner sole, and the shoe is allowed to dry while still upon the relasting last, the latter being of the exact size of the desired shoe.
  • the flaps 17 and 18 of the lining are laid across the sole as above described they are preferably drawn taut so that they extend inwardly toward the center line of the sole to an excessive degree.
  • the channel lip of the sole as well as any loose portions of the inseam which have not been properly trimmed become set in the solidified cement so that there is little danger that they will curl up during use and form protuberances upon the upper surface of the sole, and since the flaps 17 and 18 of the lining extend across the inseam, they tend to provide a level inner surface which, when covered by the inner sole, furnishes a comfortable and even support for the foot.
  • the shoe may be subjected to any of the usual finishing processes.
  • the lining of the shoe is lasted as above described directly upon the outer sur face of the relasting last it conforms with substantial exactitude to the size and contour of the latter, actually being of less circumferential extent than the outer member of the upper, and as the shoe is relasted after the inner sole and shank piece have been placed in position, the interior of the completed shoe is of the full size intended.
  • the linin is lasted independently of the outer mem ers of the upper, it also is capable of resisting the expansive stresses of use and if made of material capable of sustaining such stresses it may be caused to,
  • the backing or reinforce material is exposed to view after the shoe .is turned, it is possible by smoothing it as above described substantially to eliminate excessive fullness and wrinkles in it, so that in the completed shoe the reinforce is capable of bearing its proper share of the expansive strain of use and will not cause discomfort to the wearer.
  • the shoe comprises two concentric shells, each of which is of the proper intended size, free from wrinkles and slackness, and capable of withstanding expansivepressure
  • the shoe thus-retains its shape much longer than the usual turn shoe and may be made of thin and tender leather which could not be employed in shoes of the usual construction.
  • the employment of thin and tender leather is made possible not only by the fact that the lining assists in carrying the expansive pressure but by the permissive employment of a backing or reinforce for the leather of almost any desired thickness.
  • the lining has been described as consisting of a single layer or ply and as free "from the inseam stitches except at the toe. .it is contemplated that the term lining may be held to include certain plies of the upper in addition to the innermost ply, and the extent of the area referred to as the toe may be varied to a considerable degree, and it is even contemplated that in some instances the lining may be left free throughout the entire circumference of the sole,- the toe portion being smoothed down and held in position by adhesive in the same manner as the remaining parts of the lining.
  • the numeral 1 designates the outer sole of the turn shoe, 7 a the outer member of the upper and i the lining, which, as previously described, may consist of one or a plurality of layers, including reinforcing elements, as may be desired.
  • this lining is shown as comprising a rear portion 8 which may be of leather while the forward portion of the lining is of textile fabric.
  • the shoe illustrated in Figs. 12 to 16 is made in accordance with the method above described up to and including the turning operation.
  • the interior surface of the outer sole is thoroughly coated with suitable adhesive, for example, rubber cement or paste and the unattached edges of the lining to the rear of the toe tip are laid in overlapping relation upon the coated inner surface of the outer sole. as already described.
  • the inner sole is made substantially as indicated in Figs. 13 and 16, consisting of a bottom ply or layer 33 and a top ply or layer 34. These layers may or may not be of the same thickness or material, but are preferably of substantially the same size and contour and are placed in registering relation.
  • These plies are permanently connected by a stitched seam 35 at the ball portion of the sole, such seam preferably being curved and concave toward the rear. Forward of this seam the upper and lower plies are preferably connected permanently in any desired manner, for example, by the use of adhesive or other fastening means, such for example, as rivets, sewed'seams or the like. To the rear of the seam 35 the plies are left free and unconnected so that the upper ply can be lifted from the lower ply.
  • the lower ply of the inner sole may be secured at the heel portion by means of tacks 36 extending into the outer sole and like:
  • a rivet 37 may be placed at the shank of the shoe to secure the lower ply of the inner sole to the outer sole.
  • this inner sole may be provided with a shank piece and steel spring as shown ,in the previously described modification and if so provided with a steel spring'the rivet 37 will pass through an opening in the latter SO as to clamp the parts securely together.
  • the rivet 37 and tacks 36 may readily be inserted by turning back the rear portion 34 of the upper ply of the inner sole as indicated in Fig. 13.
  • the heel 38 is secured to the outer sole in any usual manner, the flap 34 of the inner sole being turned back during the heeling operation to avoid its connection to the lower ply by the heel attaching means.
  • the flap 34 may be turnedback as shown in Fig. 13 and an arch supporting pad 39 of any suitable material, for example, rubber, and of any desired shape or size may be placed between the upperand lower plies of the inner sole.
  • the flap 34 may be turned back and the pad adjusted by the wearer or by the salesman who'lits the shoe to the wearers foot. The flap 34 is then turned down to cover the lower ply of the inner sole, thus concealing the rivet 87 and the tacks 36 and providing a smooth and uninterrupted surface extending from the heel to the toe of the shoe.
  • the flap 34 may, after a proper adjustment of the pad, be attached to the lower ply of the inner sole by adhesive if desired or we may provide separable fastener elements, such as snap fasteners, of the type disclosed in the application of Frank Sarra above referred to.
  • the shoe thus constructed may be made in standard style and construction and may be furnished to the retail trade in this form since the provision of the readily adjustable pad between the upper and lower plies of the inner sole enables the shoe dealer to fit the shoe to the foot of the purchaser-with accuracy and ease.
  • a lasted turn shoe having an outer sole provided with a stitch receiving lip, an inner sole, an upper, and an inseam uniting the lip of the outer 'soleto the upper, the upper comprising a lining which is free from fullness and wrinkles and which is attached by stitches to the outer sole at'the toe portion only of the shoe.
  • a lasted turn shoe having a. .sole'and upper, the sole having a stitch receiving channel and the upper comprising an outer member, a backing, and a lining, and an inseam comprising stitches uniting the sole and upper, both the backing and lining bein substantially free from fullness and wrin les whereby they are capable of reliev- .a lining, thesole having stitch receiving means spaced-inwardly from its edge, an inseam comprisingv stitches engaging: said stitch receiving means and attaching the outer member of theupper and the toe portion only of the lining to the 'sole,'and independent means connecting the remainder of the lining to the sole.
  • a lasted turn shoe having a soleand
  • the sole having a stitch receivin channel therein, inseam stitches dispose in the channel in the sole and uniting the sole and upper, the upper comprising a lining sewed to the sole around the toe portion of the shoe and having its edges, to the rear of the toe, overlapping the upper surface of the sole and attached thereto by adhesive.
  • a lasted turn shoe having a sole and upper, the sole having a channel therein, inseam stitches disposed in the channel in the sole and'uniting the sole and upper, the upper comprising a lining, said lining extending inwardly and covering the channel and inseam of the shoe except at the toe.
  • a lasted turn shoe having a sole and upper, the sole having a channel therein, an inseam uniting the sole and upper, the
  • upper comprising a lining, said lining extending inwardly over the inseam and channel to form a cushion for the foot, and an inner sole covering the inwardly extending portions of the lining.
  • a lasted turn shoe having an outer sole provided with a stitch receiving channel, an .inner sole, and an upper, an inseam uniting the outer sole and upper, the upper comprising a lining bound into the inseam around the toe portion only of the shoe,
  • edge portions of the lining rearward of the toe being disposed between and attached to the opposed surfaces of the outer sole and inner sole.
  • a lasted turn shoe having an outer sole provided with a stitch receiving channel, an inner sole, and an upper, an inseam having stitches disposed in the channel in the outer sole, said stitches uniting said outer sole to the upper, the upper comprising a lining bound into the inseam around the toe portion only of the shoe, the edge portions of the lining rearward of the toe being disposed between the opposed surfaces of the outer sole and inner sole, and a rivet uniting the inner and outer soles at the shank portion of the shoe.
  • a turn shoe having a sole and upper, the latter comprising a lining sewed to the sole at the toe portion only of the shoe, the
  • a turn shoe having a sole and upper
  • the latter comprising a lining bound into the inseam around thetoe portion only of the shoe, the edge portions of the lining rearward of the toe overlapping the inner surface of the sole, and an inner sole-permanent-i ly secured within the shoe and concealing the edge portions of the lining, said inner sole having a pocket for the reception of a remedial pad.
  • a turn shoe having an outer sole, an
  • a turn shoe having an outersole, an inner sole and an upper, the latter comprising a lining sewed to the outer sole around the toe portion only of the outer sole and having its edges to the rear of the toe, interposed between the outer and inner soles, means-permanently securing the fore partof the inner sole in position, that portion 1 of the inner sole to the rear of the ball of'the shoe comprising a lower ply permanently attached to the outer sole and an upperply adapted to be lifted to permitintroduct on of a" pad between it and the'lower ply.
  • a turn shoe having an outer sole and upper, the latter comprising a lining sewed to the outer sole around the toe portion only of the shoe, an inner sole extending substantially from toe to heel of the shoe, said inner sole having a smooth anduninterrupted upper surface, means permanently attaching the inner sole both at its fore part and heel portion, to the shoe, the rear portion of the inner sole consisting of two normally registering superposed plies of substantially like shape and size, the upper ply being normally free from the lower ply from its rear end to a point adjacent to the ball of the foot, means securely uniting the plies at the ball of the foot, and a pad interposed between the plies to the rear'of said securing means.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Description

June 12, 1928. 1,673,785
L. v. GROVER ET AL TURN SHOE Filed June 2, 1926 s Sheets-Sheet 1 WWW/21% m 5 Lyndcnv VT Grove?" Frau/2J2 Sarra/ fleielerb 0i? Dal/rhea June 12, 1928. 1,673,785
L. V. GROVER ET AL TURN SHOE Filed June 2, 1926 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 76' I77/ve77/t0r'5 LFZdOTD U Grove?" ag gw g e 76' Patented June 12, 1928.
UNITED STATES 1,673,785 PATENT OFFICE.
LYNDON V. GROVER AND FRANK SARRA, OF LYNN, AND ADELBEBT A. DURKEE, OF' STONEHAM, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNORS TO J. J. GROVERS SONS COMPANY, OF STONEHAM, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MASSACHUSETTS.
TURN SHOE.
Application filed June 2, 1926. Serial No. 113,183.
This invention pertains to footwear and more particularly to turn shoes. Principal objects of the invention are to provide a turn shoe which truly conforms in shape and size to the last upon which it was made; to produce a shoe having a lining substantially free from wrinkles and capable of sustaining its share at least of the expansive stresses of use; to provide a shoe having a reinforced or backed upper wherein the reinforce or backing material is free from wrinkles and is strong and heavy enough to enable it substantially to relicvethe outer member of the upper of the stresses incident to wear; and to provide a turn shoe having a sole whose inner surface is freer from inequalities than the soles of turn shoes made by usual methods, the present application being a part continuation of our copending application Serial No. 8705, filed February 12, 1925.
In making turn shoes in accordance with the usual processes the upper, which is commonly of multi-ply construction including several superposed pieces of substantially the same configuration, for example an outer member of leather, satin or other suitable material, a lining consisting of thin leather or textile fabric, and one or more interposed layers of reinforce material, is turned Wrong the sole. The surplus material of the upper projecting from the inseam is now trimmed oif and the shoe is turned right side out so that the layer or ply of'the upper which engaged the last during the lasting operation becomes the outer member of the shoe, while the lining, which during lasting and sewing was the exposedouter member of the upper, now forms the interior surface of the upper.
If the upper, including its several plies or layers be of substantial thickness, it is manifest that the lining which is wrapped around the other members of the upper during the side out before lasting sothat when applied inseam spaced just inside of the. edge of lasting operation must necessarily be of greater circumferential extent than that of the ply of the upper which was in direct contact with the last. The result of this is that when the shoe is turned the lining becomes slack, thus producing unsightly wrinkles which, unless they can be eliminated, cause discomfort to the wearer and prevent the lining fromcarrying any substantial part of the expansive pressure of use.
To enable the manufacturer to employ the thinner and cheaper grades of leather in shoe, up crs it is common to reinforce the leather y pasting a backing or interlining of textile or other suitable material to the inner surface of the leather, satin, or other substance. Sometimes one or more additional pieces of reinforce material termed doublers, which may or may not be eemented to the backing, are employed to impart a plumper appearance and better feel to the leather.
What has been said above with respect to the lining is also true, although to a lesser extent, of the reinforce material, which after turning tends to become slack and wrinkle and pipe or separate from the outer layer.
\Vhile the wrinkles produced in a lining may to a certain. extent be removed superficially by subsequent smoothing operations, it is impossible to take out the wrinkles or bunches occurring in the. reinforce as the latter is in a wholly inaccessible position bet-ween the outer member and lining.
Although this fullness of the reinforce with its resultant wrinkles is serious from the standpoint of comfort, it is far more serious in its relation to the wear and shape retaining qualities of the shoe. It is evident that if the reinforce material be slacker than the outer member it can afford little if any support to the latter until the outer member has become so stretched beyond its intended size and shape as to take up the slack in the reinforce,-and since the principal purpose of the reinforce is to relieve the relatively tender outer member from the strains of expansion incident to use, the application of the backing or reinforce to theupper of a shoe made by the ordinary turn process is of little utility except possibly to improve the appearance and feel of the upper. Y
Moreover although the lining may be strong and substantial and well able to bear a part of the expansive stress, it also is so sla'ck actually, even though the wrinkles may have been rubbed smooth, as to escape any substantial part of its share in the duty of opposing the expansive forces of wear, and the entire strain is thus thrown upon the outer member of the upper which is not intended to carry any such load.
In accordance with usual processes the shoe is relasted immediately upon turning by forcing a last into it and as the tempered shoe dries upon the last it shrinks and assumes substantially its final form. When the last is afterward withdrawn, an inner sole, shank piece, and sometimes other elements are inserted in the shoe and securedto the upper surface of the sole to impart a finished appearance, with the result that the actual size of the space inside the shoe becomes less than that supposedly determined by the last upon which it was relasted.
Furthermore, since no filling material is ordinarily employedin the turned shoe to level the central portion of the sole inside the inseam, the bottom of the shoe, even after the introduction of the inner sole and shank piece, is frequently uneven and uncomfortable and this is often accentuated by the curling and wrinkling of portions of the channel lip and the ragged edges of the inseam when subjected to the heat and moisture of the foot.
In accordance with the present invention it is also possible to produce a turn shoe of the type useful in the correction or remedial treatment of certain foot infirmities, for example, weakness of the metatarsal and longitudinal arches of the foot commonly referred to as fallen arch and flat foot respectively.
Various appliances have been devised from time to time for the correction of such foot troubles, some being adapted to be fitted into theshoe after its completion and others involving the construction of theshoe itself. Most of these arrangements, if of any value at all, require great care and skill in their construction and application and are thus so expensive that many persons are unable to adopt them, while many such devices are so cumbersome that they detract from the.
appearance of the shoe and can only be used in shoes of relatively heax y construction.
Since shoes of the turn variety form a very substantial portion of the finer class of womens footwear, it is quite desirable. to provide corrective means for use in shoes of this character, but due to the usual process of manufacture of such shoes the provision of such corrective means has been diflicult.
As above described such shoes .are lasted inside out and are then turned and relasted and it has been considered necessary to introreravee duce the corrective or remedial means after the relasting operation and when the shoe has assumed its final form and size. Thus, when such devices of whatever type are introduced, they necessarily decrease the effective size of the shoe so that it is necessary for the user to wear a shoe of extra size which detracts from the desired neat appearance of the foot. Y 'Y In accordance with the present invent-ion we are able to make effective use of an inner sole of the general type disclosed in the copending application of Frank Sarra, Serial No. 25,77Ttiled April 25, 1925, thus producing a turn shoe which may be as light in weight as desired and whose external appearance is not substantially different from that of an ordinary turn shoe but which comprises as a permanent part of its construction means permitting theproper and ready application of a remedial or corrective pad of simple and inexpensive type. A shoe thus devised permits individual correction of foot infirmities although the shoe is of a standard and uniform construction and may be of the size normally worn.
With the above specific objects in view, and with the general purpose of avoiding those particular defects and deficiencies in shoes of the turn variety which have already been pointed out the present invention resides in the features hereinafter more fully described and claimed and to assist in a proper understanding-of the invention reference may be had to the accompanying drawings which illustrate by way of example certain preferred steps advantageously employed in manufacturing a shoe embodying the present invention.
Referring to the drawings,
Fig. 1 is a side elevation showing the improved shoe at the completion of the lasting process and at the beginning of the formation of the inseam, certain parts of the upper being broken away to show underlying plies thereof Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the same shoe after the completion of the inseam and after the shoe has been turnedand removed from the last. the lining being shown as drawn upwardly and out of the top of the shoe;
Fig. 3 is a fragmentary longitudinal vertical section through the fore part of the shoe, with the lining positioned as in Fig. 2;
Fig. 4 is a fragmentary plan viewof the fore part of the shoe with the upper split along the central line of the shoe and drawn apart to show the method of laying the lining upon the bottom of the shoe;
Fig. 5 is a plan view showing a combined inner sole and shank piece preferably employedin making the improved shoe;
Fig. 6 is a transverse section to larger scale on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5;
Fig. 7 is a plan view of the completed shoe 'designates the shoe sole.
with the inner sole and shank piece in position, the rear part of the upper being drawn away laterally to exhibit the interior surfaces;
Fig. 8 is a bottom view of the shoe shown in Fig. 7.
Fig. 9 is a transverse section on the line 9-9 of Fig. 7 to larger scale;
Fig. 10 is a similiar section on the line 10 10 of Fig. 7;
Fig. 11 is a perspective view illustrating a tool useful in positioning the inner sole;
Fig. 12 is a View similiar to Fig.7 but illustrates the shoe as provided with an inner sole adapted to position a remedial pad;
Fig. 13 is a view similiar to Fig. 12 but showing the upper ply of the inner sole tuiglned back for inserting or removing the a 2 p Fig. 14 is a fragmentary longitudinal section substantially on the line 1414 of Fig. 12;
Fig. 15 is a plan view of a preferred form of inner sole for use in making the shoe of Figs. 12, 13 and 14; and
Fig. 16 is a section on line 1616 of Fig. 15.
Referring to the drawings, the numeral 1 n In accordance with usual methods of lasting turn shoes, this sole is placed with its wear surface against the bottom of the last 2 a'nd is secured temporarily thereto by tacks or other usual securing means.
While the present process facilitates the use of molded counters, since the rear part of the lining is left free until after the shoe is turned, I have preferred to indicate a counter of usual or unmoulded type at C, such counter being applied prior to turning.
The upper 3 as usual comprises a lining 4, a backing or interlining 5 and an outer member 7. The lining may also comprise a toe stiffener 6 interposed between the lining and the reinforce or backing material 5.
The lining l as here illustrated comprises a forward portion of textile fabric and a rear portion 8 of thin leather, for example, sheepskin. which is secured to the forward .portion of the lining by means of a sewed seam 9. The various parts of the upper are stitched together in the usualmanner, forming seams such as 10 and 11, (Fig. 2) and after the parts of the upper have thus been assembled and united the completed upper is turned inside out.
In accordance with the present invention the lining 4 is slit or gashed inwardly from its edge as-indicated at 12 and 13 respectively at points at either side of the toe of the upper. One .or more additional gashes may also be provided if desired as indicated for example at 12' and 13. These'slits are preferably formed in the general neiglr borhood of the rear edges of the toe stiflener free from the last except at its forward por tion P which is drawn over the last with the other parts of the upper in usual manner and temporarily held in position by tacks as above described.
Prior to or after the lasting operation the port-ions of the lining rearward of the' splits, or gashes 12 and 13 are turned down as shown in Fig. 1, the upper and sole being united by the sewed inseam 16 comprising stitches of usual type engaging a. stitch receiving element preferably spaced from the edge of the sole, such element preferably consisting of a lip formed in any desired manner, as for example by channeling the outer sole, the stitches of the inseam being received in said channel. The completed inseam extends entirely around the ClIuL1111feienceof the shoe, but during the sewing operation all that part of the lining to the rear of the slits 12 and 13 remains turned down so that it is not bound in to the inseam except atthe toe of the shoe.
After the sewing operation is completed the lasting tacks are removed and the surplus 3 marginal portion of the upper projecting beyond the inseam are'trimmed oif in usual manner, the last is withdrawn, and, after the sole has been properly moistened or ten'ipered, the shoe is turned right side out 3 in the usual manner.
The lining is now pulled up and out of the shoe as indicated in Fig. 2 so that the unattached lower edge 15 of the lining occupies the position shown in the latter figure. This exposes the backing or reinforce material 5, as shown in Fig. 3, at all points except within the extreme toe of the shoe and this reinforce or backing may now be smoothed and freed from wrinkles in accordance with any desired process. At the same time the toe stiffener 6 may be shaped in accordance with usual methods to the shoe and laid smoothly in overlapping 3 laterally spaced inseams.
relation as shown in Fig. t upon the adhesive inner surface of the sole, the double thickness of lining thus produced being disposed at the central part of. the sole between the While a considerable amount of overlap is here shown, this may be varied as desired and if the lining be cut scant, its edges may not overlap at all.
Referring to Fig. 5, the numeral 19 designates an insole of any suitable material, for example leather, leatherboard, or the like. A shank piece 20 is attached to the inner sole 19 by means of a staple 21 or other fastening means. The shank piece 20 is preferably furnished with the usual steel 22 attached thereto by rivets 23 and 24;. An opening 25 is provided extending through the steel and shank piece near the junction of the latter with the inner sole. The forward end of the inner sole 19 is furnished with a loop or staple 26 located at the extreme end of the inner sole where it will not interfere with the comfort of the wearer. After the flaps of the lining have been laid upon the upper surface of the sole so as to cover the inseam and to form a filler for the upper surface of the sole, the bottoms of the inner sole and shank piece are coated with cement and by means of a suitable instrument engaged in the loop 26 of the inner sole, the latter, together with the shank, is pushed into the shoe until the sock lining is properly positioned within the toe portion of the latter. An instrument suitable for the purpose is shown in Fig. 11 comprising a handle 28 carrying a. stem 29 terminating at 30 in a shouldered point adapted to be inserted in the loop 26. Preferably the stem 29 carries a trowel-like blade 31 for holding the inner sole flat.
The rear end of the shank piece is next attached to the sole ,by means of tacks 2i? and a rivet 27 is passed through the shank piece, steel, overlapping portions of the lining and the sole 1 of the shoe and is headed over so as to secure these parts permanently together.
The shoe is now relasted by pushing the relasting last straight forward into the shoe, the fore part of the last sliding readily along the smooth upper surfaces of the shank and inner sole, and the shoe is allowed to dry while still upon the relasting last, the latter being of the exact size of the desired shoe. When the flaps 17 and 18 of the lining are laid across the sole as above described they are preferably drawn taut so that they extend inwardly toward the center line of the sole to an excessive degree. Now when the last is inserted in the shoe for relasting, these flaps 17 and 18 which at this stage are pinched between the inner sole and the outer sole of theshoe and which have been rendered sticky by the cement applied, do not draw out readily from beneath the inner neva'zae sole so that the eflect of relasting is to stretch these portions of the lining andjdraw them very tight and smooth about the surface of the last, thus constituting a true lasting of the lining directly upon the outer surface of the last.
As the adhesive dries, the channel lip of the sole as well as any loose portions of the inseam which have not been properly trimmed become set in the solidified cement so that there is little danger that they will curl up during use and form protuberances upon the upper surface of the sole, and since the flaps 17 and 18 of the lining extend across the inseam, they tend to provide a level inner surface which, when covered by the inner sole, furnishes a comfortable and even support for the foot. After relastmg, the shoe may be subjected to any of the usual finishing processes.
Since the lining of the shoe is lasted as above described directly upon the outer sur face of the relasting last it conforms with substantial exactitude to the size and contour of the latter, actually being of less circumferential extent than the outer member of the upper, and as the shoe is relasted after the inner sole and shank piece have been placed in position, the interior of the completed shoe is of the full size intended.
As the linin is lasted independently of the outer mem ers of the upper, it also is capable of resisting the expansive stresses of use and if made of material capable of sustaining such stresses it may be caused to,
relieve the outer member of the upper whether reinforced or not, of substantially all expansive stresses.
Moreover since the backing or reinforce material is exposed to view after the shoe .is turned, it is possible by smoothing it as above described substantially to eliminate excessive fullness and wrinkles in it, so that in the completed shoe the reinforce is capable of bearing its proper share of the expansive strain of use and will not cause discomfort to the wearer.
In effect, the shoe comprises two concentric shells, each of which is of the proper intended size, free from wrinkles and slackness, and capable of withstanding expansivepressure The shoe thus-retains its shape much longer than the usual turn shoe and may be made of thin and tender leather which could not be employed in shoes of the usual construction. The employment of thin and tender leather is made possible not only by the fact that the lining assists in carrying the expansive pressure but by the permissive employment of a backing or reinforce for the leather of almost any desired thickness. v
While in the above description certain materials have been referred to as useful in making the various parts of the upper, it
is to be understood that such reference is merely by way of example and is not. intended in any restrictive sense. It is also contemplated that while reference has been made to the employment of a reinforce or backing ply or layer, the use or omission of such reinforce or backing material whether comprising one or a greater number of plies, or the interposition of other layers of material having a different purpose between the'outer and inner members of the upper does not in any way affect the principles embodied in the product herein described. It is also to be understood that the shank piece and inner sole herein referred to may be replaced by equivalent elements, or omitted entirely so far as some of the broader aspects of the invention are concerned.
lVhile the lining has been described as consisting of a single layer or ply and as free "from the inseam stitches except at the toe. .it is contemplated that the term lining may be held to include certain plies of the upper in addition to the innermost ply, and the extent of the area referred to as the toe may be varied to a considerable degree, and it is even contemplated that in some instances the lining may be left free throughout the entire circumference of the sole,- the toe portion being smoothed down and held in position by adhesive in the same manner as the remaining parts of the lining.
As above stated the construction hereinbefore described is admirably adapted by slight modifications for use in the remedial treatment of certain infirmities of the foot. To this end we may incorporate in the shoe during the process of manufacture an inner sole of the general type disclosed in the copending application of Frank Sarra, Serial No. 25,777, filed April 25, 1925, and in Figs. 12 to 16 inclusive this construction is more specifically illustrated.
Referring to these figures, the numeral 1" designates the outer sole of the turn shoe, 7 a the outer member of the upper and i the lining, which, as previously described, may consist of one or a plurality of layers, including reinforcing elements, as may be desired. As in the preceding figures of the drawing this lining is shown as comprising a rear portion 8 which may be of leather while the forward portion of the lining is of textile fabric.
The shoe illustrated in Figs. 12 to 16 is made in accordance with the method above described up to and including the turning operation. After turning, the interior surface of the outer sole is thoroughly coated with suitable adhesive, for example, rubber cement or paste and the unattached edges of the lining to the rear of the toe tip are laid in overlapping relation upon the coated inner surface of the outer sole. as already described.
In accordance with this modification the inner sole is made substantially as indicated in Figs. 13 and 16, consisting of a bottom ply or layer 33 and a top ply or layer 34. These layers may or may not be of the same thickness or material, but are preferably of substantially the same size and contour and are placed in registering relation. These plies are permanently connected by a stitched seam 35 at the ball portion of the sole, such seam preferably being curved and concave toward the rear. Forward of this seam the upper and lower plies are preferably connected permanently in any desired manner, for example, by the use of adhesive or other fastening means, such for example, as rivets, sewed'seams or the like. To the rear of the seam 35 the plies are left free and unconnected so that the upper ply can be lifted from the lower ply.
This composite inner sole is now inserted in the shoe in the same way as the inner sole 19 previously described and after the inner sole has been placed in position the shoe is relasted thus drawing taut the lining and causing the interior of the shoe to assume the exact shape and contour of the last. In Fig. 14 the superposed layers of .the lining have been shown as extendin beneath the lower ply 33 of the inner sole rom the toe to the heel of the shoe. While the edges .of the lining may thus be overlapped to this extent, it may be found desirable for the sake of economy to provide less surplus material at the edge of the lining so that the lining does not actually overlap after the shoe is relasted. This makes substantially no difference in the finished shoe, providing there is sufiicient surplus material at the edge of the lining to provide a secure gripping of the edge of the lining between the opposed surfaces of the inner and outer soles.
Either before or after the relasting of the shoe the lower ply of the inner sole may be secured at the heel portion by means of tacks 36 extending into the outer sole and like:
Wise a rivet 37 may be placed at the shank of the shoe to secure the lower ply of the inner sole to the outer sole. Obviously, if desired, this inner sole may be provided with a shank piece and steel spring as shown ,in the previously described modification and if so provided with a steel spring'the rivet 37 will pass through an opening in the latter SO as to clamp the parts securely together. The rivet 37 and tacks 36 may readily be inserted by turning back the rear portion 34 of the upper ply of the inner sole as indicated in Fig. 13. The heel 38 is secured to the outer sole in any usual manner, the flap 34 of the inner sole being turned back during the heeling operation to avoid its connection to the lower ply by the heel attaching means.
After the shoe is completed the flap 34 may be turnedback as shown in Fig. 13 and an arch supporting pad 39 of any suitable material, for example, rubber, and of any desired shape or size may be placed between the upperand lower plies of the inner sole.
To accommodate the shoe to the needs of the user, the flap 34: may be turned back and the pad adjusted by the wearer or by the salesman who'lits the shoe to the wearers foot. The flap 34 is then turned down to cover the lower ply of the inner sole, thus concealing the rivet 87 and the tacks 36 and providinga smooth and uninterrupted surface extending from the heel to the toe of the shoe. Obviously the flap 34 may, after a proper adjustment of the pad, be attached to the lower ply of the inner sole by adhesive if desired or we may provide separable fastener elements, such as snap fasteners, of the type disclosed in the application of Frank Sarra above referred to.
The shoe thus constructed may be made in standard style and construction and may be furnished to the retail trade in this form since the provision of the readily adjustable pad between the upper and lower plies of the inner sole enables the shoe dealer to fit the shoe to the foot of the purchaser-with accuracy and ease.
While we prefer to employ the, inner sole shown in Figs. 15 and 16 consisting of two superposed plies of the same size and contour, we do not wish hereby to limit ourselves to this exact construction. 1
While a specific application of the invention has been disclosed, it is to be understood that the various steps herein described relate to a preferred illustrative embodiment exemplifying the general principles underlying the invention, and that various changes and modifications, within the scope of the appended claims, may be made therein as circumstances or experience may direct. We claim: 1 v 1. A lasted turn shoe having an outer sole provided with a stitch receiving lip, an inner sole, an upper, and an inseam uniting the lip of the outer 'soleto the upper, the upper comprising a lining which is free from fullness and wrinkles and which is attached by stitches to the outer sole at'the toe portion only of the shoe.
2. A lasted turn shoe having a. .sole'and upper, the sole having a stitch receiving channel and the upper comprising an outer member, a backing, and a lining, and an inseam comprising stitches uniting the sole and upper, both the backing and lining bein substantially free from fullness and wrin les whereby they are capable of reliev- .a lining, thesole having stitch receiving means spaced-inwardly from its edge, an inseam comprisingv stitches engaging: said stitch receiving means and attaching the outer member of theupper and the toe portion only of the lining to the 'sole,'and independent means connecting the remainder of the lining to the sole.
5. A lasted turn shoe having a soleand;
upper,'the sole having a stitch receivin channel therein, inseam stitches dispose in the channel in the sole and uniting the sole and upper, the upper comprising a lining sewed to the sole around the toe portion of the shoe and having its edges, to the rear of the toe, overlapping the upper surface of the sole and attached thereto by adhesive.
6. A lasted turn shoe having a sole and upper, the sole having a channel therein, inseam stitches disposed in the channel in the sole and'uniting the sole and upper, the upper comprising a lining, said lining extending inwardly and covering the channel and inseam of the shoe except at the toe.
7. A lasted turn shoe having a sole and upper, the sole having a channel therein, an inseam uniting the sole and upper, the
upper comprising a lining, said lining extending inwardly over the inseam and channel to form a cushion for the foot, and an inner sole covering the inwardly extending portions of the lining.
8. A lasted turn shoe having an outer sole provided with a stitch receiving channel, an .inner sole, and an upper, an inseam uniting the outer sole and upper, the upper comprising a lining bound into the inseam around the toe portion only of the shoe,
the edge portions of the lining rearward of the toe being disposed between and attached to the opposed surfaces of the outer sole and inner sole.
9. A lasted turn shoe having an outer sole provided with a stitch receiving channel, an inner sole, and an upper, an inseam having stitches disposed in the channel in the outer sole, said stitches uniting said outer sole to the upper, the upper comprising a lining bound into the inseam around the toe portion only of the shoe, the edge portions of the lining rearward of the toe being disposed between the opposed surfaces of the outer sole and inner sole, and a rivet uniting the inner and outer soles at the shank portion of the shoe. v
10. A turn shoe having a sole and upper, the latter comprising a lining sewed to the sole at the toe portion only of the shoe, the
free-edges of the lining to the rear of the toe being disposed upon the inner surface.
- of the sole, an inner sole and shank piece superposed upon said free edge portions of the lining and concealing the latter, and a fastener uniting the sole, overlapping p01 tions of the lining, and the shank piece.
11. A turn shoe having a sole and upper,
the latter comprising a lining bound into the inseam around thetoe portion only of the shoe, the edge portions of the lining rearward of the toe overlapping the inner surface of the sole, and an inner sole-permanent-i ly secured within the shoe and concealing the edge portions of the lining, said inner sole having a pocket for the reception of a remedial pad. I
12. A turn shoe having an outer sole, an
inner sole and an upper, the latter compris-' ing a liningbound into the inseam around the toe portion only of the shoe, the edge 13. A turn shoe having an outersole, an inner sole and an upper, the latter comprising a lining sewed to the outer sole around the toe portion only of the outer sole and having its edges to the rear of the toe, interposed between the outer and inner soles, means-permanently securing the fore partof the inner sole in position, that portion 1 of the inner sole to the rear of the ball of'the shoe comprising a lower ply permanently attached to the outer sole and an upperply adapted to be lifted to permitintroduct on of a" pad between it and the'lower ply.
14. A turn shoe having an outer sole and upper, the latter comprising a lining sewed to the outer sole around the toe portion only of the shoe, an inner sole extending substantially from toe to heel of the shoe, said inner sole having a smooth anduninterrupted upper surface, means permanently attaching the inner sole both at its fore part and heel portion, to the shoe, the rear portion of the inner sole consisting of two normally registering superposed plies of substantially like shape and size, the upper ply being normally free from the lower ply from its rear end to a point adjacent to the ball of the foot, means securely uniting the plies at the ball of the foot, and a pad interposed between the plies to the rear'of said securing means.
Signed by LYNDON V. GRovER' and FRANK SARRA at Stoneham, Massachusetts, and by ADELBERT A. DURKEE at Woburn, Massachusetts,.the 26th and 28th days of May 1926.
LYN DON V. GROVER. FRANK SARRA. ADELBERT A. DURKEE.
US113183A 1926-06-02 1926-06-02 Turn shoe Expired - Lifetime US1673785A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2482333A (en) * 1945-08-04 1949-09-20 Joseph H Everston Removable insert for shoes

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2482333A (en) * 1945-08-04 1949-09-20 Joseph H Everston Removable insert for shoes

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