US1619436A

US1619436A - Sewing machine for cording

Info

Publication number: US1619436A
Authority: US
Publication date: 1927-03-01
Anticipated expiration: 1944-03-01

Description

March 1 1927.

' c. F. RUBEL ET AL SEWING MACHINE FOR CORDING Filed July 12, 1926 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 a: $551 Eukiifiit? March 1, 1927. (3. F. RUBEL. ET AL SEWING MACHINE FOR CORDI'NG 5 Sheets-Sheei; 2

Filed July 12. 1926 March 1 1927.

c. F. RUBEL ET AL SEWING MACHINE FOR CORDING Filed July 12. 1926 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 an ch 1, 1927. 1,619,436

C. F. RUEEL. ET AL SEWING MACHINE FOR GORDING Filed July 12, 1926 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 mm mg I I 1,619,436 March 1,1927. c. FRUBEL ET AL SEWING MACHINE FOR 'C ORDING Filed-July 12. 1926 5 sheets sheet 5 Patented Mar. 1, 1927.

CHARLES IF. RUBEL AND FRANK K'UCERA, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNORS TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.

SEWING MACHINE FOR COBDING.

Application filed July 12, 1926. Serial No. 121,918.

The invention relates to new and useful improvements in a sewing machine and more particularly to a sewing machine for forming a corded seam.

An object of the invention is to provide a sewing machine having two spaced needles and a cooperatingthread-carrying looper with means associated with the looper for positioning the needle loop adjacent the heel of the looper so that the looper thread loop is entered only by the needle adjacent the point of the looper.

A further object of the invention is to provide a machine of theabove type with means whereby the fabric being stitched is formed with a ridge between the stitching "needles and a cord is fedinto the recess on the under face of the material formed by said ridge, which cord is secured to the fabric so as to make a permanent ridge in the material by the needle threads and the looper thread, which looper thread crosses said cord and secures it to the material.

These and other objects will in part be obvious, and will in part be hereinafter more same on the line 33 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a vertical sectional view through the cloth plate and the parts beneath the same on the line 4-4 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a detail in section showing the connection between the shaftwhich supports the loop positioning device and the lever which moves the same endwise.

Fig. 6 is an enlarged sectional view through the throat plate, presser foot, feed dog, looper and thread positioning devices, taken substantially on the line of feed.

Fig. 7 is a plan view of the throat plate, feed dog and cloth plate adjacent the throat plate.

Fig.8 is a sectional view on the line 88 of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a view showing in diagram and' section the throat plate, the stitching element and the presser foot with the needles all the way up.

Fig. 10 is a view similar to Fig. 9, but showing the needle thread loops positioned so that the needle at the left only will enter the looper thread triangle. 7

Fig. 11 is a plan view on a very large scale showing the fabric, the cord, the stitches and the stitching element at the time when the needle is positioned as shown in Fig. 10.

Fig. 12 is a bottom plan viewof the :[inished seam.

Fig. 13 is a sectional view on the line 13-43 of Fig. 11.

The invention is directed broadlyto a sewing machine for forming a corded seam wherein a cord isplaced on the under face of the fabric in a recess formed by a ridge in the material and is secured to the ma terial' by needle thread loops and a looper threadloop, the looper thread loop passing from one row of needle thread loops to the other and serving as the sole means for cov- 'ering the cord and holding the cord both to the material and the ridge in the material formed by the cord.

It is desirable that the stitching threads shall be so formed and arranged that when the seam is put under strain, during lasting for example, the threads will not give, but will hold the ridge in. the material precisely in the manner that it is originally formed. In order tocarry out'this arrangement of the threads it is desirable that the needle thread loops shall be directly opposed to each other in the formed seam and that the thread loops shall be joined by a looper thread loop passing through opposing needle loops and secured by one needle thread loop only. The needle thread loop which secures the looper thread loop is on the opposite side of the seam from the laying of the looper thread; The thread carrying needles and the thread carrying looper are of the usualconstruction. y

Associated with the thread carrying looper is a loop positioning finger which engages the needle thread'loop of the needle nearest the heel of the looper when the looper is in p into the-looper thread loop, but the looper vSaid needle bar carries two needles 6 and 7.

Cooperating with the needles beneath the work support is a thread carrying looper 8. This looperS is mounted on a looper carrier 9 whichis pivoted at 10 to a looper support 11. The looper carrier is oscillated on its pivot by a link 12 and the looper support is oscillated to give a needle avoiding movement to the looper by an arm 13 which is fastened to the supporting shaft for the looper support, and which arm cooperates with an eccentric 14 on the main shaft 15.

The material is fed across the work supportby means of a feed dog .16. This feed dog is carried by a" feed bar 17 attached to a feed rocker 18. VThe feed rocker 18 is oscillated by an arm 19 connected in the usual manner to a crank on the forward end of the main shaft 15.. The feed bar is shaft 15.

thought necessary.

raised and lowered by a cam 20 on the main Cooperating with this feed dog 16 is an upper feed dog 21 carriedby a vertically disposed feed bar 22. The feed bar 22' has an oscillating connection at 23 with the overhanging arm 4 and is raised and lowered and moved back and forth by a mechanism indicated diagrammatically 'at '24 in Fig. 1 of the drawings. All of the above mechanism is of the usual constructionand further detailed description is not The material is held on the work support by a 'presser foot 25 carried by a presser bar which is yieldably forced downwardly Iby, spring-27. The upper feed dog 21 is provided with two spaced members cooperating with the outer sections of the feed .dog 16 and located between the spaced sections of the upper feed dog for the presser footv 25. The presser foot 25 is provided with two spaced.

sections

26, 26. V 3 is provided with an upstanding rib 27 located in the space between the sections 26,

26 of the presser foot. This rib '27 has a longitudinal passage 28 extending therethrough.

The rib is for thepurpose of forming a ridge in the material and the groove 28 i'sfor the purpose of directing a cord beneath the material and into the reces's formed by the ,ridge- 7 7 Before proceeding further with the; description of the machine, the articleforined on the machine willbe described. This articlej consists of a fabric F. -1The fabric 'Fi isformed into a ridge f and the cord 0 is as shown in Figs. 9 and 10.

The throat plate "laid on the under face of the material and in the recess formed by the ridge (see Figs. 12 and 13). The needle thread 11- is formed into a series of thread loops'n 'which-are passed through the material at one side of the ridge f. The needle thread a is formed in the'series of loops n which are passed through the material at the otherside of the ridge. The thread loops n and n are directly opposed to each other. The looper thread Z is formed into a series of loopsZ and these loops Z pass through. first the" needle thread loop 01) and thenthe directly opposed needle thread loop a. The looper I thread loop is locked by the needle thread i-z.

loop a of the next formed stitch.

With this understanding of the article, the remainder of the mechanism of the machine will be described and the operation I thereof.

[is the material]? passes through the ItliL- chine beneath the presser foot 25fand beneath the upper feeddog 21, the rib 27 will bend the fabric soas to form a ridge f. The cord 0* which maybe of any desired material is led through the passage 28, and

this places the cord in the recess in the under faceof the fabric formed by the ridge 7'. This ridge is so disposed that theneedle 6 carrying the needle thread a passes down alongside of the ridge f and along one side of the cord 0, while the needle 7 carrying the needle thread 2 passes down alongside of the other side of the ridge f and theother These needles 6 and Z.

side of the cord 0. V V lie in a plane cutting the line of feed at right angles, and; therefore the needle thread loops at and n are directly opposed, The looper Spassesthrough these thread loops witht-he looper 8'is a thread positioninglinger 29 carried by an arm 30. This arm 30 is rigidly secured to a shaft 31, which shaft 31 is mounted in

bearings

32, 32 secured to the bed plateof the machine. The

shaft 31 carries a forked head 33 in. which is mounted a. vertical, shaft 3 1 slabbed to receive the forked end of an arm 35 which is adjustably attached to a lever 36.

forkedend of the arm 35 againstthe slabbed sides of the vertical shaftBt. The lever 36 Cooperating it screw 37 is provided for clamping the (see Fig. 3) is mounted on a vertical stud;

38 and is oscillatedthereon'by an eccentric strap 39 cooperatingwit-han eccentric 40 on the main shaft 15 (see When the lever 36 is oscillated it will move the shaft 31 carrying the supportfor the loop positioning finger in an endwise'direction,

and this will move the gloop positioning finger lengthwise of the looper as the shaft 31 is parallel to the axis of the looper support and at right angles to the axisof os eillation of the looperv, I r I The support 30 for the positioning finger is-shown in side view in Fig. 4. This support projects rearwardly from the shaft 31 the looper.

The parts are so timed that when the looper is retracted after it has entered the needle thread loop, as shown in Fig. 9, the positioning finger 29 will move'forward and across the body of the looper engaging the needle thread loop '11 as shownin Fig. 10, and forces said loop toward the point of the looper and to the left of the right-hand needle as viewed in Fig. 10. By this positioning of the needle thread loop a the needle 6 will not pass into the looper thread loop, while the needle 7 will pass to the left of both of the needle thread loops and into the thread triangle formed by the needle thread loop 01 the looper and the looper thread leading from the point of the looper to a previous stitch. In other words, this positioning finger so positions the needle thread loop of the right hand needle as viewed in Figs. 9, 10, and 11, that the left hand needle only enters the looper thread loop.

The result is the article described above;

that is, an article wherein the cord is held to the material solely by the looper thread loopi passing through the needle thread loops, and furthermore the looper thread loop is anchored or secured to opposing needle thread loops, and therefore the strands of the looper thread after passing through the right hand needle loop cross the cord in a direction at right angles to the length of the cord. The strands for the looper thread loop then pass through the other needle thread loop, and the looper thread loop is secured by the needle thread loo-p on the same side of the cord that the loop issues from the needle thread loops.

By this arrangement a seam is formed wherein any strain on the seam comes lengthwise of the looper threads and this prevents the needle thread loops from drawing apart, or the ridge flattening out.

The article produced on the improved machine is therefore especially adapted for making moccasins, or in the construction of shoes where, after the material has been corded either for the purpose of ornamentation or for the purpose of imitating a seam, the lasting of the shoe does not in any way disturb the corded seam.

It will be noted from the above that the thread positioning finger 'has'four motions. ltnot only moves endwise of the looper, but moves crosswise of the looper. The timing off-this positioning finger is such that it moves across the looper and into engagement with the thread loop therein, and then moves the thread loop forward on the looper. After the needle is well down into the thread triangle then the thread linger moves away from the looper or returns for the beginning of its cycle of movement.

It will be understood that the stitch-forming mechanism may be used in other types of machines than in a cording machine, and. therefore the invention is not limited to the specific embodiment illustrated.

What is claimed as new is:

1. A sewing machine including in combination two spaced needles, a thread carrying looper cooperating with both needles, a thread positioning finger and means for operating said thread positioning finger whereby said finger moves across the looper into engagement with the needle thread loop thereon adjacent the heel of the looper, and. moves said loop forward on the looper when the needles descend so that the looper thread loop is entered only by the needle adjacent the point of the looper.

2. A sewing machine including in combination a cloth plate, a rib on said cloth plate, a presser foot cooperating with said rib for forming a ridge in the material being stitched, a pair of needles located one on each side of said rib, a thread-carrying looper cooperating with said needles, thread positioning finger and means for operating said finger, whereby said finger is moved across the looper and then forward against the needle thread loop thereon adjacent the heel of the looper for moving said loop forward on the looper so that the looper thread loop is entered only by the needle adjacent the point of the looper.

3. A sewing machine including in combination a work support, a rib on said work support, a presser footcooperating with said rib to form a ridge :in the material being stitched, said rib having a passage therethrough for guiding a cord into the recess formed in the fabric being stitched by said rib, spaced needles, one on each side of said ridge, a thread-carrying looper cooperating with both needles, a thread positioning finger and means for moving said finger into engagement with the needle thread loop adjacent the heel of the looper for moving said loop forward so that only the needle adjacent the point of the looper will enter the looper thread loop.

' 4. A sewing machine including in combination a feeding mechanism, needles spaced from each other and located in a plane at right angles to the line of feed, a threadcarrying looper cooperating with said needles, means associated with said lo oper &

needles, and means associated with said looper for engaging the needle thread loop on the looper adjacent the heel of the looper ,tor moving said loop forward on the looper that the needle adjacent thepoint oi' the looper only will enter the looper thread loop.

5. A sewing machine inclnding'in combination a feeding mechanism, needles spaced from each other and located in a plane at rightangles to the line of feed a thread carrying looper cooperating w1th said for engaging'the needle thread loop on the ill) looper adjacent the heel off-the looper for moving said loop forward on the looper so that the needle adjacent the point of the looper only will enter the looperthread loop, and means for guiding a cord beneath the fabric and between the "paths of the needles whereby said cord is sec-ured'to the fabric by the stitching threads only.

7 6. A sewing machine including in comhi nation a feeding mechanism, needles spaced from each other and located in a plane at right angles to the line of feed, a threal for guiding acordbeneath and into the recess formed by said ridge whereby said cord is secured to the fabric and the ridge maintained therein solely by the stitching threads.

7. A sewingmachine including-in combi nation a tlnead-carrying looper, a thread poslt oning Yfinger associated with said thread-carrying looper, means for supporting said thread positioning finger and giving thereto a movement across the looper, thence forwardly on the looper, thence laterally away from the looper, and thence rearwardly alongside of the looper toits initial starting aosition, said stitch positioning finger being adapted-toengage a needle loo-p on the looper and move thesaine toe-ward toward the point of the looper.

8. A sewing machine inelndingvin'con' bination, two spaced needles, a threadcarrying looper cooperating withboth needles;

means looper needle looper means for giving said thread carrying a movement into and out of the thread-loops, means for givingsaid a needle avoiding movement, and

the looper when the needles descend so that .the looper thread loop is entered only by the needle adjacent thezpoint of the looper.

In testimony whereof, we aliix our signa tures' erniRLEs F. RUBEL.

FRANK KUGERA.

for moving the needle thread loopad acent the heel of thelooper forward on