US1588132A

US1588132A - Blindstitch sewing machine for felling bluff edges on coats

Info

Publication number: US1588132A
Application number: US691638A
Authority: US
Inventors: Charles W Mueller
Original assignee: Lewis Invisible Stitch Machine Co
Current assignee: Lewis Invisible Stitch Machine Co
Priority date: 1924-02-09
Filing date: 1924-02-09
Publication date: 1926-06-08
Anticipated expiration: 1943-06-08

Description

Jurie 8 1926. 1,588,132

c. w. MUELLER' BLINDSTITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR FELLING BLUFF EDGES ON COATS Filed Feb. 9. 1924 7 Sheets-Sheet 1 M 11ml -nm June 8 1926.

C. W. MUELLER BLINDSTITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR FELLING BLUFF EDGES ON COATS '7 Sheets Sheet '2 Filed Feb. 9, 1924 Ill;

attorney;

June 8 1926,

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c. w. MUELLER BLI NDSTITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR FBLLING BLUFF EDGES ONCOATS W i gwuentoz flfia/rles WM June 8 1926. 1,588,132 I C. WJMUELLER BLINDSTITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR FELLING BLUFF EDGES ON COATS Filed Feb. 9. 1924 7 SheetsSheec 6 June 8 1926.

C. W. MUELLER BLINDSTITCH SEWING MACHINE FOR FELLING BLUFF EDGES ON COATS 1924 '7 SheetsSheet Filed Feb.

Pat ented June 8, 1926.

UNITED STATES 1,538,132 PATENT OFF-ICE.

CHARLES W. MUELLER, ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOR TO LEWIS INVISIBIlE STITCH MACHINE CO.,'OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION MAINE.

BLINDSTITGH'SEWING MACHINE FOR FEIaLIN-G BLUFF EDGES ON COATS. I

. Application filed February 9, 1924. Serial No. 691,638.

by a line of blind stitches, and the acing of the coat is then turned over upon the interlining. 'Although the fold thus formed is subsequently pressed, there is a tendency during the wearing of'the coat for, the edge thus seamed and folded to roll, that'is, the f edge portion of the facing tends to roll outwardly. To overcome this objection it has been customary to hand stitch the facing to the lining, but this hand operation is necessarily slow and consequently costly, the

stitches are spaced irregularly and great care must be exercised in order to" avoid any of these hand made stitches from penetrating the fore-part of the coat, or creating puckering in the outer face or fair side of the facing due to the stitches being set too I tightly.

Oneof the principal objects of this invention is to provide a high speed blind-stitch sewing machine for producing an edge seam -whereby production will be materially increased and the cost thereof will be correspondingly reduced, the edge of the coat will be retained against rolling, the stitches will be equally spaced apart and will penetrate the facing and interlining at a uniform depth, and the stitches will be constructed and arranged so asto avoid all puckering effect on the fair side of-the facing.

Another object of the invention is to provide such a sewing machine with a'plunger mechanism for intermittently crimping or forming the material into a node in advance of each penetrating movement of the needle whereby the needle will penetrate the inter-lining on each reciprocation but will penetrate the facing only on alternate reciprocations.

Another object of the invention is to proclamp vide a machine of the character described with means for intermittently releasing the tension'of needle thread whereby alternate tight and loose stitches will be formed, the

tightstitches engaging the interlining only and the loose stitches engaging both the interllmng and the facing, and whereby the seam thus produced, will be sufficiently tight for all practical purposes and will not only prevent the edgeof the coat from rolling but will also avoid all puckering effect on the fair side of the facing.

\Vith the above and other objects in view which will more readily appear as the nature of the invention is better "understood, the same consists in the novel construction, combination and 'arrangementof parts hereinafter more fully described, illustrated and claimed.

In the accompanying drawings which illustrateone form of my invention,

Figure 1 is an elevation of the left hand end of a sewing machine embodying my in vention.

Figure 2 is a front elevation of said sew' ing machine, parts thereof being shown in section. Y I

' Figure 3'is a vertical sectional on the line 33 of Figure 2.

V Figure 4 is a .detail'pla'n View showingthe quick adjusting means for the plunger.

Figure 5 is an enlarged detail sectional view showing the work' presenting mechanism. j

Figure 6 is a perspective viewof the work Figure 7 is a part plunger.

Figure 8 is a plan view of the presser foot showing the relation of the work, the needle andthe plunger.

Figure 9-is a similar view, but without the work.

Figure 10 is a bottom plan view of the presser foot.

Figure 11 is a' front presser foot.

perspective View of the twoelevation of the Figure 12 is an enlarged cross-sectional view'of the presser foot taken on-the line 12.12 of Fig. 9. I I

Figure 13 is an enlarged sectional view taken on the line 13-13 of Fig. 8, and showing the relation between the work, the presser-foot, the p1unger,--the work. clamp,

view taken I ing the relation between the feed dog, the

work clamp, and the plunger.

Figure 17 is a detail sectional horizontal view of the intermittent needle thread tensioning mechanism.

Figure 18 man enlarged detail elevation showing the locking means for the cam I which controls the needle thread tension.

Figure 19 is a detail view showing the guide, and stop for the work clamp.

Figure 20 is a sectional view showing the initial joining of'the fore-part, interlining and facing.

Figure 21 is a sectional view showing the parts folded and temporarily stitched.

Figure22 is a plan. View of the seam while in the process of being formed.

Figure 23 is a sectional view thereof taken on the line 23-23 of Fig. 22.

Figure 24 is a similar View 'but taken on the line -2424 of Fig. 22, and

Figure 25 is an end elevation showing more or less diagrammatically, the garment and completed seam.

Like reference numerals designate" corresponding parts throughout the severalfigures of-the drawings.

The present invention is illustrated herein as embodied in a blind-stitch sewing machine of the Lewis type, such'as is shown in the patent to John G. Lewis, 1,172,812, issued Feb. 22, 1916, having a base or bed-plate 5, a post or standard 6, and an overhanging arm'7 which supports at its outer end a stitching head 8, the base 5 carrying a workpresenting mechanism 9 which is disposed directly under said stitching head 8. The stitching head carries at its lower extremity a presser foot 10 for cooperation with the stitch forming and work presenting mechanisms.

' The operating parts of the stitching head 8 and the work presenting mechanism 9 are driven from a main shaft ll which extends longitudinally in the overhanging arm 7 and is suitably journaled therein, said shaft havg a hand wheel pulley fixed to the right hand end thereof.

This sewing machine is particularly adapted for joining the edge portions of the facing and interlinin of a coat, the seam per se forming the 'StlbJCCt matter of my copending application filed Jan. 9, 1924, Ser. No. (535,174, and the method of forming the seam constituting the subject matter of my copending application filed Feb. 9, 1924, Ser.-

In order to understand the operating parts of this machine, and their functions, it is advisable to first describe the seam which is produced by said machine and the method of producing the sea-m. herefore, referring particularly to Figures 20 to 25, l have illustrated a coat A which, as usual, comprises a fore-part 12, a facing 13, an interlining 14 and a tape 15. The fore-part 12, facing 13, and tape 15 are first disposed in superposed relation with their outer edges coinciding, and the entirety is then joined by a line of t-hrough-and-through stitches 16 which parallel said outer edges, thus constituting the primary seam. The interlining 14 is then joined to the tape 15 by a line of blind ,stitches 17 which I have diagramamtically shown in Figures 23, 24 and 25.-

The purpose of securing the interlining to the primary seam is an incident of manufacture, and, therefore,.the interlining and the tape may be considered as an entirety, viz:

an interlining which is secured to the fore-' part and facing by the line of stitches-16.

I then fold the facing 13 upon the interlining 14 and temporarily seam the parts as thus folded by a line of basting stitches 1b, which are preferably of the single thread chain stitch type and are disposed in a line parallel to and adjacent the lnfolded edges of the facing and fore-part, as shown in Fig. 21. The edge portion thus folded and temporarily stitched, will hereinafter be referred to as the main seamed portion 19.

' I then open the work thus previously seamed so as to position the facing 13 in a substantially horizontal plane on one side of the main seamed portion 19 and position the interlining 14 and fore-part 12 in superposed relation and in substantially the same horizontal plane as thefacing, but on the other side of the main seamed portion 19, said main seamed portion being disposed below the horizontal plane containing said facing, fore-part and interlining and arranged with its outer or marginal edges projecting upwardly. Thus the facing and the interlining are folded in one direction and the forethrough the sewing machine shown in the accompanying drawings.

The sewing machine includes a needle 20 having a needle thread 21 and a cooperating rotary hook 22 carrying a bobbin thread 23, the needle and the hook being both disposed above the work and supported by the stitching head 8. The needle is arranged to oscillate about a horizontal axis and across the line of seam. Cooperatingv with the work is the presser foot 10 having an opening 25, a feed dog 26, a work clamp 27, and:

a plunger 28. The plunger. 'reciprocates vertically in timed relation to the needle and feed, and comprises relatively fixed and movable parts '29 and 30 respectively, as clearly illustrated in Figures 14 and 15. The upper ends of these

parts

29 and 30 are 'conjointly formed with a guiding channel 31 for the reception of the main seamed portion 19. The plunger engages the under face of the work and causes the latter to be forced into a node, which is projected by said plunger through the presser-foot opening 25 into the path of the needle 20. In

alternate reciprocations of the plunger, the

relatively fixed part 29 is projected above the relatively movable part 30 as shown in Figure 15, and inasmuch as'the fixed part 29 engages the facing 13, the latter will be elevated into the same horizontal plane as the interlining 14, which interlining 14 and fore-part 12 are disposed above and are engaged by the relatively movable part 30 of the plunger. In this position as shown in Fig. 15, the needle 20 willenter and emerge from the upper faces of the facing 13 and interlining l4, and leave a penetrant needle thread loop 32 which is anchored by the bobbin thread 23. In the intermediate reciprocations of the plunger, the relatively stationary part 29 will remain in its normal position, that is, with its upper end disposed in substantially the same horizontal plane as the upper end of the relatively movable part 30. In this position as shown in Fig.

14, the needle 20 will not enter the facing 13, but will enter and emerge only from. the up- 7 per face of the interlining14 by reason of the facing 13 being at this time disposed in a plane below the path of reciprocation of the needle 20, and leave a penetrant needle thread loop 33 in said interl'ining,'the loop 33 being anchored by the bobbin thread 23. The stitching head 8 is rovided withan intermittent tension mec anism 34 which acts on the needle thread 21 to loosely concatenate the*needle thread loops 32 with the bobbin thread 23, and to tightly concatenate the needle thread loops 33 with said bobbin thread. Thus the stitches which engage the facing and interlining are loosely set, whereasthose stitches which engage theinterlining only are tightly set. v If the usual needle thread t-ension were employed, and this tension were. loosened,

then all of the stitches would be loosely set and a seam of such looseness would be created which would fail to function to retain the seam from rolling, although such loosely .set stitches would eliminate a puckered appearance of the outer face or fair side of the facing.

tratmg the facing and interlining during every other stitch only, coupled with the tight setting of the alternate stitches which engage the interlining only, there results an ideal situation in that the facing'is retained against rolling during'the wearing of the By'reason of the needle thread loops pene-.

loose setting of such stitches, and'with the garment and the appearance of dimples or puckering on the outer face or fair side of thefacing is prevented. The intermediate tension mechanism forms the subject-matter 696, filed February 14, 1924.

The work handling mechanism 9 which cooperates With the presser foot 10 includes the feed dog 26, work clamp 27 and the plungen28.

of my copending application Serial N 0. 692,- v

The feed dog is of the 4-motiontype, that i i ing lug 37 and their left hand ends jourvnaled in bearings formed in a block 38 which is detachably secured to the left hand end of the base 5 by screws 39- 39. Fixed to the outer end of the feed travel shaft 35 is a rock arm 40 and pivotally connecting the outer end of the rock arm and the forward extremity of the feed dog 26 is a link 41. The rock arm 40 extends in a general vertical direction and the link 41 extends in a general horizontal direction. n Thus upon movement of the rock arm 40, the-link 41 will impart backward and forward movements to the feed dog The feed dog 26 is ivotally connectgd as at 42 to the upper en of a substanti lly vertically disposed link 43, the lower end of said link being pivotally connected as at 44 to the horizontal arm 45 of a bell crank lever 46, the vertical arm 47 of said bell crank leverbeingpivotally connected as at 48 to one end of a ink 49, the other end of said link 49 being of a vertically-disposed rockarm 51 fixed to the feed lift shaft 36. In order-.to maintain the feed surface of the feed dog in a substantially horizontal plane during the pivotally connected as at 50 to theouter end feeding movements thereof, I provide a spring 52 which is connected between a pin 53 on the link 43 and a pendent tail 54 fixed to the feed dog 26. It will, therefore be observed that upon rocking movement of the feed lift shaft 36 the vertical link 43 will be bodily raised and lowered and consequently the feed dog will be given its up and down movements. By'proper timing of the shafts 35 and 36 a 4-way feed motion will be imparted to said feed dog.

The bell crank lever 46 is pivoted as at and this pivot is fixed to a head 56 secured to the lower end of a guide post 57, said head and post forming a vertically movable carrier. The post 57 is mounted for vertical sliding movements in a bore formed in the block 38, and this block is formed with a seat for receiving and limiting the upward movement of the carrier. This carrier is normally held in its highest position by means of a flat spring 59, the inner end of which is rigidly secured to the base 5 and the outer end thereof is disposed under the carrierso as to yield-ably hold the latter in its highest position. Theupper end of the post projects above the bloc-k 38 and carries a pair of rearwardly projecting arms 60-60 between which is pivoted as at 61 the work clamp 27.

From the foregoing it will be observed that when the feed dog 26 is elevated to its highest position, the fulcrum of the bell crank lever 46, is then .shifted to the pivot- 44 and consequently the last part of the rocking movement of the crank arm 51 will cause the bell crank lever 46 to be moved downwardly about its fulcrum 44' thus lowering the work clamp 27. The parts are so timed that the work clamp isthus lowered prior to the feeding movement of the feed dog.

engage the fabric and clamp the latter against the presser foot 10 prior to the time the feed dog begins its downward 'movement;

In order to rock the feed travel shaft35 and the feed lift shaft 36,-. I provide the main shaft 11 with

eccentrics

62 and 63 respectivcly. A connection rod 64 has its upper end engageable with the eccentric 62' and has its lower end pivotally connected as at 65 to a rock arm 66 fixed to the feed travel shaft 35. A connection rod 67 has its upper end engageable with the eccentric 63 and has its lower end pivotally connected as at 68 to a rock arm 69 fixed to the feed lift shaft 36. It will be noted that the

connec tion rods

64 and 67 are disposed within the post 6 of the machine frame.

It will be observed that when the carrier is moved downwardly against the tension of the spring 59, both the feed dog 26 and the work clamp 27 will be correspondingly moved, thus creating a suflicient space under the presser foot to insert or withdraw the work. In order to so depress the carrier, I

have provided an operating lever 70 which is fulcrumed on the base 5 and has one end disposed in contact with theupper face of the head '56 of the carrier. The other end of the lever is adapted to be raised through the application of a knee shifting device or treadle, neither of which, however, is shown in the drawings.

In order to intermittently feed and clamp the work in the position previously de scribed, I have constructed and arranged the feed dog and work clamp in such a 7 2. The top plate 72 is formed with a pair of spaced feed slots -75 which extend longitudinally of the clamp plate and receive thefecd sections7676 of the feed dog 26. The top plate 72 and the

end walls

73 and 74 are conjointly formed with a slot 7 7 which extends longitudinally of the clamp plate and is disposed intermediate the feed dog slots 7575. The slot .77 is provided to receive the depending" or main seamed portion 19 of the work. In order to properly guide the main seamed portion 19, I have provided the clamp plate 26 with a channel guide 78 which is formed of sheet metal and is positioned within the forward portion of the slot 77 and secured to the top plate 72 by solder or other suitable means. The side walls 979 of said channel guide project slightly in advance of the curved front end wall 73 so as to assist not only in the initial loading of the machine but also during the operation of the machine to 'guide the main seamed portion in proper relation past the needle 20. The top plate 72 and the channel guide 78 are conjointly formed with an opening 80 for receiving the upper end of the plunger 28.

Inasmuch'as the needle 20 oscillates across the line of feed, it' will be apparent that the channel guide 78 extends in a direction at right angles to the path of reciprocation of said needle, and that said channel guide is disposed intermediate the feed dog sections.

As previously stated, the work as it is fed past the stitching head isadapted to be in termittently cri'mped or bent so as to form a node which will be positioned in the path of the needle whereby the latter will enter said node and project a penetrant needle thread loop therethrough. 'In order to permit the work being thus crimped, the.presslit ' seamed and the work is upwardly bent or crimped into this opening by means of the vertically reciprocatory plunger 28 which comprises relatively fixed and

movable parts

29 and 30 respectively. In other words, this lunger. comprises a main section 29 and an auxiliary section 30. The sections 29 and '30 respectively include semi-cylindrical shanks 81 and 82 having flat abutting faces 83 and 84 whereby when the shanks are placed together the entirety will constitute a cylindrical shank of a diameter to freely fit within a vertically disposed barrel 85 mounted to slide within a bore formed in the end block 38. The relatively fixed section 29 is formed with a centrally disposed depending reduced shank 86 having a threaded lower end 87. The relatively movable section 30 is formed with a longitudinally extending groove 88 for receiving the reduced shank 86 when said sections are relatively moved. The movable section 30 is also provided with a laterally extending sleeve 89 at its lower end which embraces said reduced shank 86 of the fixed section. Thus by means of the opposed flat faces 83 and 84, the sections, will have no relative oscillatory movements but may have relative longitudinal movements. The upper end of the semi-tubular shank 81 is provided with an enlarged head 90 which forms a resultant shoulder 91 and the semi-tubular shank 82 is formed at its upper end with an enlarged head 92 forming a resultant shoulder 93. The head 90 is cut away on its innerv face to form a resultant crimping finger 94 and the head 92 is cut away on its inner face to form a resultant crimping finger 95, the upper edge 96 of the finger 94 being disposed in a horizontal plane higher than the horizontal plane containing the upper end 97 of the finger 95 when the sections are positioned so that their

shoulders

91 and 93 engage the upper end of the barrel 85, as

shown in Figure 15. By reason of the heads,

90 and 91 being cut-away on their' inner faces, not only the fingers 94 and 95'a1e thereby formed, but also the transversely extending guide channel .31 for the main portion 19 of the work is thereby formed.

The lower end of the barrel 85 is fixed to a lug 98 and the lower threaded end 87 of the I reduced shank 86 of the relatively fixed section 29 of the plunger extends-through an opening formed in said lug and threaded onto the lower projecting end thereof are lock nuts 99. The relatively fixed section 29 by reason of the shoulder 91, and the barrel 85, is thereby fixedly secured to the lug 98 so to move therewith. In other words the fixed section 29 cannot movedownwardly relative to the barrel 85 on account of said shoulder 91, and neither can it move upward- 1y relative to the barrel on account of the lock nuts 99. The barrel is thus clamped between the shoulder 91 of the relatively fixed section 29 and the" lug 98. Disposed within the barrel 85 between the sleeve 89 of the relatively movable plunger section 30 and the bottom of the barrel, is a coil spring 100 which yieldably holds the plunger in its highest position relative to the lug 98 so that inthe normal positions of the parts the upper end of the movable plunger section 30 will be disposed above the upper end of the relatively fixed plunger section 29, the shoulder 93 of said movable section being disposed above the upper-end of the barrel 85 a distance to permit relative movements of the sections whereby the upper end of the movable section 30 may be disposed below the horizontal plane containing the upper end of said relatively fixed section 29.

As previously described, the work is intermittently fed past the stitch forming feed and oscillates directly over the plunger 28. The needle 20 in one reciprocation passes through the interlining 14 only, as shown in Fig. 14'while in the next oscillation it passes through both the facing 13 and the, lining 14, as shown in Fig. 15. In order to bring this situation about, the presser foot 10 is provided with a vertically adjustable stop 101 which is disposed directly above the auxiliary or relatively movable section 30 of the plunger whereby both the interlining 14 and fore-part 12 are disposed. intermediate said stop 101 and the relatively stationary section 30 of the plunger. It will be readily observed that the vertical position of the stop 101 determines the depth of needle penetration in the interlining relative to the upper face thereof. The higher the stop 101 is adjustedthe deeper will be the needle penetration in the interlining and "vice versa.

The vertical position of the reciprocation of the plunger is bodily varied so that the lining; whereas, in the other vertical position of' reciprocation, the main section will main or relatively fixed section 29 thereof project the facing 13 below the-path of the needle travel whereby the needle will enter the interlining only.

lVhile I have shown the stop 101 as being attached to the presser foot 10, it will be apparent that this stop may be carried by any fixed part of the sewing machine.

The presser foot 10 is provided with the usual throat plate 102 which cooperates with the rotary hook 22 as is usual in this'type of stitch forming mechanism. This throat plate 102 extends in the line of feed, that is, in the plane at right angles to the path of needle travel, and attached to said throat plate by a horizontal pivot 103 is a lever 104 having a depending rear' portion 105 which terminates at its lower end in the stop 101. This stop lever is disposed entirely in front of the path of needle reciprocation. An adjusting screw 106 is threaded into the front end of the adjusting lever and is adapted to bear against the body portion of the presser foot. The upper end of this adjusting screw 106 is provided with a head 107 having its periphery formed with a plurality of notches 108 for automatieengage ment by a spring latch 109 fixed to the lever 104 by a screw 110. By turning the screw 106 in a clockwise direction the lever will be rocked about its fulcrum so as to lower the stop 101 relative to the path of needle reciprocation. Inasmuch ,as the stop 101 is disposed directly above the movable section 30 of the plunger, the upward movement of said movable section is thereby limited and'consequently the lower the stop 101 is positioned the lesser depth of needle penetration in the interlining will be obtained. The lever will be held in any position of adjustment by means of thespring latch 109. WVhen it is desired to increase the depth of needle penetration in the interlining the stop 101 may be elevated through the medium of the adjusting screw 106'which, of course, is turned in an anti-clockwise direction.

From the foregoing, it will be noted that the work while being fed past the stitching mechanism the main seamed portion and the adjacent portions of the facing and interlining will be always retained in a definite arrangement relative to the needle. In order to assistthe guiding of the work past the stitch forming mechanismtI have provided on the front edge of the presser foot a seam guide 111. This guide is supported on the foot by a screw 112 and the upper end of this guide is provided with a substantially vertically disposed, and forwardly extending guiding fin 113 which is adapted to ride upon the main seamed portion 19 and between the interlining 14 andfacing 13.

The plunger 28 is vertically reciprocated through the medium of a rock shaft 114 which extends longitudinally of the base 5. This rock shaft is provided wi h a crank arm 115 which is connectedto the lug 98 through the medium of a link 116. The rock shaft 114 is located below the plunger and the link 116 extends substantially vertically when the plunger is in its highest position.

consequently the plunger will be vertically reciprocated. Q

As previously noted it is desirable to bodily vary the vertical position of reciprocation of the-plunger and to this end I have supported the rock shaft 114 in the cradle 117 This cradle includes a rock shaft 123 which extends longitudinally of the base 5 and has one end journaled on the block 38 through the medium of a pin 124 and its other end journaled on the depending lug 37, through the medium of a pin 125. The rock shaft 123 is provided with downwardly and rearwardly extending rock arms 126126 in which the plunger rock shaft 114 is jour-v naled. The rock shaft 123 of the cradle is provided adjacent its right-hand end with a laterally and longitudinally extending rock arm 127 having forwardly extending arms 128128. Disposed between the arms 128-128 is a sleeve 1'29. forming a slide bearing for the lower end of a vertically disposed cam roller shaft 130. The sleeve 129 is sup ported on'the arms 128-128 by horizontally disposed pivot pins.131131. Fixed to the sleeve 129 is a'face cam 132 which is formed on its upper face with a curved surface containing diametrically opposed high points 133133 and diametrically opposed low points 134134. The cam roller shaft 130 extends upwardly through the post 6 of the frame and is driven from the main shaft 11 by a gear coupling 135 which reduces the speed of rotation of the cam roller shaft 130 relative to the main shaft 11 by the ratio' of 1 to 4. This gear coupling 135 includes a spiral gear 136 which is fixed to the cam roller shaft 130. through the medium of a collar 137, and a spiral gear 138 which is fixed to the main shaft 11. "he camroller shaft extends through a concentric opening in the cam 132 and fixed to the shaft directly above said cam is a sleeve 139 which carries the cam roller 140 engageable with the cam face of the cam. The upper end of the cam roller shaft 130 above the gear coupling 135 is mounted within a sleeve 141 which has threaded engagement with an opening formed in a plate 142 detachably secured to the upper end of the frame. The lower end of the sleeve rests on the collar 137 of the gear coupling. Fixed to the upper end of the sleeve 141 is a laterally extending hand lever 143 by means of which the sleeve may be turned and the vertical position thereof consequently adjusted. A screw 144 is threaded into the upper end of the cam roller shaft 130 and-the head of this screw bears against the upper end of the sleeve 141. Thus, the cam roller shaft 130 is held against longitudinal movement relative to the sleeve '7 8 by means of the gear collar 137' and screw 144.

By turning the hand lever 143 in a clockwisediiection, the sleeve 141 will be moved downwardly, and through the medium of the gear collar 137 the cam roller shaft 130 will moved downwardly for a correspondmg distance. This downward movement of the cam roller shaft and cam roller 140 which 1s carried thereby, causes the cradle 117 to .be rocked, thus elevating the plunger shaft 114, the latter being moved upwardly in the are about. the pivot of the cradle. This upward bodily movement of the rock shaft 114 will in turn bodily elevate the position of re- I ciprocation of the main section 29 of the plunger. v

By turning the hand lever 143 in an anticlockwise direction, the cam roller shaft 130 Wlll be elevated and the plunger rock shaft 114 will be lowered thus lowering the bodily position of reciprocation of said main section 29 of the plunger. I

In order to lock the sleeve 141 in a predetermined position of adjustment, and yet permit of a rapid release and new adjustment, I have provided the hand lever 143 with a releasable latch which cooperates with the plate 142. This latch comprises an upwardly extending housing 145 which is fixed to and is located at the outer end of the hand lever 80. This housing has a closed upper end and an open lower end. Disposed within the housing is a vertically movable latchpin 146, the'upper end thereof projecting through an opening formed in the upper end of the housing and having a finger piece or head 147 fixed thereon, the lower end of said latch-pin projecting below said housing for engagement in any one of a plurality of seats 148 which are formed in the plate 142.

w These seats are spaced apart and are disposed in a circle which is concentric to the sleeve 141. Fixed to the slower portion of the latch-pin 146 is a shoulder 149, and disposed around the pin between the upper end of the housin and said shoulder is a coil spring 150 which normally urges the latchpin" downwardly. The cradlemechanism together with the quick adjusting means therefor, forms the subject-matter of m copending application, Serial No. 684, 45, filed January 7, 1924.

Thus, after the plunger mechanism has been set, and the operator. desires to effect a quick adj ust-ment of the plunger, either up or down, it is only necessary'to raise the latch-pin against the tension of the spring 150 and then while holding the'latch-pin in its raised position, swing the hand lever 143 in the desired direction for required distance,- and then release the pin whereupon the latter will automatically. seat itself in the registering seat 148. The operator, by counting the number of seats intervening between the seat of original setting and the seat of adjustment, may readily return the parts to 3 their original setting.

I have provided a coil spring 151 which is disposed between the front wall of the base 5 and therock arm 152, fixed to the cradle 117. The rock arm 152 is formed with a rectangular slot 153- and disposed in this; slot is an angular sleeve 154 having a threaded borefor receiving the rear end of a [bolt 155, the rear end of the sleeve 154 being formed with flanges 156 which engage the rear face ofthe rock arm 152 and thereby prevent forward movement of said sleeve 154. Fixed tothe outer end of the bolt 155 is .a knurled head 157 which bears against said front wall of the base 5. 'The spring 151 serves to rock the cradle 117 when the cam shaft 130 is elevated whereby the cam 132 and cam roller 140 will remain in contact.

When either of the high points 133 of the cam 132 is engaged by the roller 140, the -cradle 117 will be rocked and the plunger rock shaft 114 will be elevated to its highest position. The cam 132 is cut so as to pro- 109 duce an extreme limit of movement for adjustment of the bodily reciprocation of the plunger, thus providing a plunger mechanism which will take care of fabrics of different weights. As the cam roller 140 leaves the high point of the cam and engages the low points 134 thereof, the cradle 117 will be returned, that is, rocked throughthe action of the coil spring 151 and the plunger rock shaft 114 will be then in its lowermost position. v I

The needle 20 is centrally carried by a yoke shaped needle bar 157 pivoted as at' 158 at. the extremities of its limbs on the head 8. One of the needle barlimbs has a lever prolongation c159 and this lever prolongation is pivoted to the lower end of .a link 160, the upperend'of the link 160 being pivotally connected with a wrist pin 161 of a counterweighted crank arm 162 carried by a jack shaft 163 which is journaled in the head 8 and is operated from themain shaft 11 by a one-to-one gear cou-. pling' 164. The axis 158 of the needle bar is disposed parallel toThe line of feed and is located directly above the plunger 28. Thus the needle20 is caused'to oscillate in'a plane at right angles to the direction of feed. Inasmuch as a one-to-one gear coupling 164 is employed, the needle 20 will make onecomplete oscillation to every ,rotation of the main shaft 11. The needle 20 cooperates with the hook 22 to-form a series of lock stitches. This hook is rotated in the usual manner common to lock stitch machines of the Lewis type. It is suflicient to state that the hook is supported on a horizontally disposed shaft and is driven from the jack shaft 163 through the medium of an in clined shaft 165 and a two-to-one gear coupling 166. Thus the hook will be rotated twice for each oscillation of the needle and will cooperate with the needle in a manner well known to those skilled in this art.

A take-up arm 167 for the needle thread 21 is fixed to a sleeve or hub 168 whichis .journaled on .a horizontal pin 169 in the head 8. A rock arm 170 is also fixed to the sleeve o-r hub 168 and has sliding engagement with a block 171 which is pivotally connected as at 172 to a laterally'extending rigid arm 173 of thelink 160. The take-up arm 167 is thus given a differential rate of motion in an appropriately timed relation to theneedle oscillation. In the cyclic operation the take-up lever is given a rapid rise and slow descent and an extended dwell in its lower position. The

needle thread 21 is led from the supply to a stationary thread guide 174 fixed to the head 8, thence through

tension discs

175, and 17 6 respectively of the intermittent tension device 3a, thence through a spring tension which is indicated as a whole by the numeral 177, thence through a guide eye 178 formed in the outer end of the take-up arm 167 and thence to the needle 20[ The intermittent tension mechanism 34 functions as previously stated to loosely concatenate the needle thread loops 32 with the bobbin thread 23 and to tightly concatenate the needle thread loops 33 with said bobbin thread. The

tension'discs

175 and 176 are mounted on a horizontal rod 179 mounted to slide longitudinally in a horizontal bore 180 formed in the head 8.

This rod is preferably held against rotary movement, however, by a screw 181 having threaded engagement with the head 8 and operating in a longitudinal groove182 formed in said rod. This screw and groove connection retains the rod against rotary movements but permits of a limited longitudinal movement of said rod. Formed on the front end of the rod 179 isa flange or 187 is a heavy coil spring 188 which has considerably more tensional strength or pressure than the spring 185. The spring 188 acts against the nut 187 to urge the rod 179 rearwardly so as to cause the flange or shoulder 183 to force the tension discs against each other and against the frame 8. Thus in the normal position of the parts the needle thread is under the heavy tension of the spring 188 and the light spring 185 has practically no effect on the needle thread. The rod 17 9 is adapted to be moved forwardly so as to relieve the tension discs of the heavy pressure exerted by'the spring 188 by permitting the spring 185 to exert its light tension against said discs. Inorder to intermittently actuate the rod 179 and thereby intermittently control the tension on the needle thread, I have formed the inclined hook shaft 165 with a worm 189 which drive a horizontally disposed shaft 190 through the medium of a worm 191 formed thereon. The shaft 190 is journaled in the head 8 and is provided at the outer end with a surface cam 192 having a single high point 193 adapted to cooperate with the end of the tension rod 179 and thereby move the latter longitudinally to release the tension. discs from pressure of the heavy spring 188. The gear connection 189 and 191 for the cam shaft 190 is such that the high point 193 will actuate the tension rod 179 during every other oscillation of the needle. The cam shaft 190 is permitted to rotate but is held against longitudinal movement by means of a keeper 194 which is pivoted to the head 8 at 195. This keeper is formed with a hooked end 196 for engagement with an annular groove 197 formed in said cam parts may be variously changed and modilied without departing from the spirit and scope of my invention.

I claim:

1. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the work and including a reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposed in a. substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said needle having its work penetrating move ment in a direction across the line of feed, a guide separate from the feed for the previously formed seam disposed below the work, and a vertically reciprocable plunger operating below the work for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needlewill penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides 2 feed, means on the other side of the work for positionin a node formed from said body fabrics 1nto the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, and 'a guide separate from the feeding means and located on the same side of the work as the positioning means for receiving said previously formed seam I whereby the work will be presented to the needle 1n a constant relation. a

3. In a'sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely on one side of the work and including a reciproca-tory needle,

of means operating on the other side of the work for presenting the work to the stitch forming mechanism including an intermittent feed dog and an intermittent work clamp separate from the feed dog, and means for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said work clamp being provided with a guiding channel. extending in the line of feed'for'receiving said previously formed seamwhereby the work will be presented to the needle in a constant relation.

4. In asewing machine for stitchin together the adjacent faces of; body fa rics united by a previousl formed seam, the

combination with a stltch formin mecha-' nism operating entirely on one si e of the work-and'including a reciprocato needle, of means presenting the work to t e stitch forming mechanism including an intermittent dog and an intermittent work clamp, and means for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sidesof said previously formed seam, said-work clamp being provided with spaced slots for receiving the feed dog and with a guidingchannel intermediate said slots for receiving said previously formed seam whereby the work will be presented to the needl in a constant relation.

5. In a sewing machine for stitching to p In a sewing machine for stitching to-- gether the adjacent faces of body fabrics unltedby a previously formed scam, the combination with a'stitch formin nism operating entirely on' one si e of the work and including a reciprocatory needle, of means presenting the work to the stitch mechaforming'mechanism including an intermittent feed dog and an. intermittent work clamp, and a ver tically' reciprocatory plunger operating below the work and pro jecting through the work clam for positioning a'node formed from said intothe path of the needle whereby the said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said work clamp bein provided with a uiding channel-exten ing in the lineyof eed for. receiving said previously formed seam whereby the work will be presented to the needle in a constant relation. 7 6. In a sewing machine, for stitchin gether the adjacent faces of body fab united by combination with a stitch formin nism operating entirely on one si e of the work and including a reciprocate needle, of means presenting the work to .t e stitch forming mechanism including an intermit rics body fabrics tent feed dog and an intermittent work clamp, and a vertically recipro'catory plunger operating below the wor and through the work clamp for node formed from said body f rics into the \ipath of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on'opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said work pro ecting psosltioning a a clamp being provided with a guiding channel extending in the line of feed for receiving said previously formed seam whereby the work will be presented to the needle ,in a

constant relation, the upper end of the plunger being provided with a channel guide extending in alinement with the channel guide of the work-clamp.

7. In a sewing machine for stitchin together the adjacent faces of body fa rics united by a previously formed seam, the

combination with presser foot disposed above the'work and having an opening, of a stitch forming mechanis m operating above the work and including a-reclprocatory needle movable across the openin of-the presser foot, means for presenting t e work to the;

stitch forming mechanism including'an inlow the work. and cooperating wi said presser foot, said needle havmgits work penetratin termittent feed and an intermittent clamp separate from th'efeed and arranged be 2120' movement Jin a direction across the lineo 'feed and across the 'open-v ing of the presserfoot', and means for pos g tioning a node formed from sa d bodyqfab rics into the opening of the: :pres'aer footr whereby saidneedle will penetrate-said fab-t T lat - positioning anode formedfrom said body ricson opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said work clamp being provided with a iding channel extending in the line of fee for receiving said previously formed seam whereby the work Wlll be presented to the needle in a constant relation.

8. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with a presser foot disposed above the work and having an opening, of a clamp separate from the feed and arranged below the work. and cooperating with said presser foot, said needle having its work penetratin movement in'a direction across clamp arranged below the work and coop-v the line 0 feed and across the opening of the presser foot, and a vertically reciprocatory plunger operating below the work and projecting through the work clamp for fabrics into the opening of thepresser foot whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides' of said previously fg gmed seam, said work clamp being provided with a guiding channel extending in the line of feed for receiving said previously formed seam whereby the work will be presented to the needle in aconstant relation.

v 9. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent 'faces of body fabrics. united by a previously formed seam, the combination with a presser foot disposed above the work and having an opening, of a stitch forming mechanism operating above the work and including a reciprocatory needle movable across the opening of the prcsser foot, meansfor presenting the work to the stitch forming mechanism including an intermittent feed and an intermittent crating with said presser foot, said needlehaving its work penetrating movement in a'direction across the line of feed and across the opening of the presser foot, and means for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the opening of the presser foot whereby said needlelwill penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said work clamp being provided with a guiding channel extending in the line of feed for receiving said -pre viously formed seam whereby the Work will be presented to the needle in a constant relation, a verticallyreci rocable plunger op; erating below. the .wor for positioning a node formed fromsaid body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed scam, the upper end of the plunger being provided with a channel guide extending in alinement with the channel guide of the work clamp.

10. In a sewing machine for stitchin gether the adjacent faces of body fa rics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the work and includinga reciprocatory needle, of means, for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposed in a substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said needle having its work penetrating movement in a direction acrossthe line of feed, a vertically reciprocable plunger operatin below the work for positioning a node ormed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam,- said plunger including main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under the fabrics on oppositesides of said previously formed seam, a vertically adjustable stop carried by the machine above the auxiliary section only, a spring for yieldably retaining said sectlons' against relative longitudinal movements in one direction, and operating means connected to the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative to the" auxiliary section and against the tensionof said spring.

11. In a sewingmachine for stitchin together the adjacent faces of body fa rics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the workand including a reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposed in a substantially horizontal plane. and on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said needle having its work penetrating movement in a direction across the line of feed, and a vertically reciprocable plunger operating-below the work 'for' positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path'of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seamfsaid plunger including main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectivel disposed under the fabrics on 0pposite si es of said previously formed seam, said plunger sections being conjointly formed at their upper ends with a guiding "channel for receiving formed seam, a verticall carried by the machine a ove the auxiliary section only, a spring for yieldably retainthe. previously 3 adjustable stojp' ing said sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction, and operating means connected to the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and against the tension of said spring.

12. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with a presser foot having an Iopening, of a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the presser foot and including a reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposed in a substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides including main and auxiliary sections arof said previously formed seam, said needle having 1ts work penetrating movement in a direction across the line of feed and across the opening of the presser foot, a vertically reciprocable plunger operating below the work for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the opening of the presser foot whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said plunger ranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, a vertically adjustable stop fixed tothe presser foot above the auxihary section only, a spring for yieldably retaining said sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction, and operating means connected to the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and' against the tension of said spring.

13. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed scam, the,

combination with a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the work and including a reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said. body fabrics are disposed ina substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides of said previously formedseam, said needle having its work penetrating movement in. a direction across the line of feed, a vertically reciprocable plunger operating below the work for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said reviously formed seam, said plunger inclu ing main and aux iliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed. seam, a vertically adjustable stop carried by the machine above the auxiliary section only, a spring for! yieldably retaining said sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction, operating means connected to'the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and against the tension of said spring, and means for raising and lowering the bodily position of reciprocation of the plunger without disturbing its reciprocatory movements. 1

14. In a sewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the work and including a reciprocatory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposed in a substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said needle having its work penetrating movement ina direction across the line of feed, a vertically reciprocable plunger operating below the work for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said plunger including main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said plunger sections being conjointly formed at their upper ends with a guiding channelfor receiving the previously formedseam, a vertically adjustable stop carried by the machine above the auxiliary section only, a spring for'yieldably retaining said sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction, and operating means connected to the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and against the tension of said spring, and means for raising and lowering the bodily position of reciprocation of the plunger without disturbing its reciprocatory movements.

15. In a sewing machine for stitching together the-adjacent faces of body, fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with a presser foot having an opening, of a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the presser foot and including a recipro'catory needle, of means for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposedin a substantially horizontal planeand on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said needle having its work enetrating movement in a direction across the line of feed, and across clamp the materia the opening of the presser foot, a vertically reciprocable plunger operating below the work for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the openingof the presser foot whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said plunger including main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, a vertically adjustable stop fixed to the presser foot above the auxiliary section only, a spring for yieldably retaining said sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction, operating means connected to the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and z against the tension of said spring, and means for raising and lowering the bodily position of reciprocation of the plunger without disturbing its reciprocatory movements.

16. In asewing machine for stitching together the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the corn bination with a presser foot having an opening, of a stitch forming mechanism operating entirely above the presser foot and including a reciprocatory needle, a. 4-motion feed dog cooperating with said foot for intermittently feeding the body fabrics past said stitch forming mechanism while said body fabrics are disposed in a substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said needle having its work penetrating movement in a direction across the line of feed and across theopening of the. presser foot, a vertically reciprocatory clamp cooperatin with the presser foot to against movement durin the penetrating strokes of the needle and formed with a guide for receiving the previously formed seam, said clam being formed with an opening, a vertically rec]. rocable plunger disposed below the work an operatpositioning ing through theopening of the clamp-for fabrics intothe opening ofthe presser foot whereby. said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said plunger including'main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively dis-' posed under the fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, a vertically adjustable stop fixed to the presser foot above the auxiliary section only, a spring for yieldablyretaining said sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction, and operating means connected to the main section for vertically reciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and against the tension of said spring. 17. In a sewing machine for stitching toa node formed from said body 1,5ss,isa

gether the adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with a presser foot having an opening, of a stitch forming mechanism opcrating entirely above, the presser foot and having its work penetrating movement in a direction acrossithe line of feed and across the opening of the presser foot, a vertically reciprocatory clamp cooperating with the presser foot to clamp the material against movement during the penetrating strokes of the needle-and formed with a guide for receiving the previously formed seam, said clampbeing formedwith an opening, a vertically reciprocable plun er disposed below the work and operating through the opening of the clamp for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the opening of the presser foot whereby said needle will penetrate sa1d fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, said plunger including main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, a vertically'adjustable stop fixed to the presser footabove the aiixiliary section only,a spring for yieldably retaining said sections agalnst relative longitudinal movements in one direction, operating means connected to the main section forvertically reciprocating the same relative to the auxiliary section and against the tension of sa1d spring, and means for raising and lowering the bodily position of reciprocationof the plunger without disturbing its reciprocatory movements. v

18. In a sewin machine for stitching toether adjacent aces of body fabrics united y a. previouslyfformed seam, the comb1- nation with a reciprocatory threaded needle and a complemental stitch forming mechanism for forming a series of connected stitches, of means for feeding the body fabrics past the needle, j'me'ans for positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on-o'pposite sides of sa1d previously formed seam during eertainrecrprocations thereof, a tension device for the needle thread, and means for releasing said tension device during the formation of c'ertainstitches less thanthe'whole number thereof.

19. In a sewin machine for stitching together adjacent aces of body fabrics united by a previously formed scam, the combination with a reciprocatory threaded needle and a complemental stitch forming mecha-.

nism for forming a series of connected stitches, of means for feeding the body fabrics past the needle while said body fabrics are disposed in a substantially horizontal plane and on opposite sides of said previously formed seam, means for positioning a node formedfrom said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on oppo-.

site sides of said previously formed seam during certain reciprocations thereof, a tension device for the needle thread, and means for releasing said tension during the formation of certain stitches less than the whole number thereof.

20. In a sewing machine for stitching together adjacent faces of body fabrics united v rics past the needle,

by a previously formed seam,the combination with a reciprocatory threaded needle tain reciprocations thereof, a tension evice for the needle thread, and means for releasing said tension device during the formation of certain stitches less than the whole number thereof.

211'" In a sewing machine for stitching to.- gether adj acent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combina and a complemental stitch forming mechanism for forming a series of connected stitches, of means for feeding the body'faba vertically reciprocatory plunger including a guide for the previously formed seam for positioning a node thereof.

formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will penetrate said fabrics on opposite" sides of said previously formed seam during certain re ciprocations thereof, a ,tension device 4 for the needle thread, and means for releasing said tension device during the formation of certain stitches less than the whole number 22. In a sewing machine for stitching together adjacent 'faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with a reciprocatory threaded needle and a complemental stitch forming mechanism for forming a series of connected stitches, of means for feeding the Body v n dl tion with a reclprocatory threaded needle- 88 e fabrics past the needle, a reciprocatory plunger forv positioning a node formed from said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will alternately enter the. upper face of one only of the fabrics and enter and emerge from the upper faces of both. body fabrics, a tension device for the needle thread, and means for automatically releasing the tension device during alternate "reciprocations of the needle. r A

23. Ina sewing machine for stitching together adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combina- 7 tion with a reciprocatory threaded needle and a complemental s itch forming mechanism .for forming. a series of connected stitches, of means for feeding the body fabrics past the needle, a reciprocatory plunger for positionin a node formed from said body fabrics into the path .of the needle whereby said needle will alternately enter the upper face of one only of the fabrics and enter and emerge from the upper faces of both body fabrics, said plunger including main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and re -spectivcly disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides. of c said previously formed seam, a stop carried by the machine above (I the auxiliary section only, a spring for yieldably retaining said sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction', ope ratingmeans connected to said main section forvertically reciprocating the same relative. to the auxiliary section and against the tension of said spring, a tension device for the needle thread, and means for automatically releasing said needle thread during 24-. In a sewing machine for stitching together adjacent faces of body fabrics united by a previously formed seam, the combination with a reciprocatory threaded needle nism for, forming a series of connected -stitches, of means for feeding the body fabrics past the needle, a reciprocato plunger for positioning a node formed fiom said body fabrics into the path of the needle whereby said needle will alternately enter the upper face of one only of the fabrics and enter and emerge from the upper faces of both fabrics, said plunger including main and auxiliary sections arranged for relative longitudinal movements and respectively disposed under the fabrics on opposite sides of said-previously formed seam, a stop carried by the machineabovethe auxiliary sec-' tion only, a spring for yieldably retaining said sections against relative longitudinal movements in one direction, operating means connected to the main section for alternate reciprocations of the 10 and a complemental stitch forming mechano