US1583028A - Shoe upper and method of finishing the edges thereof - Google Patents

Description

May 4 1926. 1,583,028 A. J. THOMAS wSHOE UPPER AND METHOD OF FINISHING THE EDGES' THEREOF Filed August 29, 1923 Patented May 4, I 1926.

UNITED stares ALFRED J; THOMAS or BRAINTREE, MASSACHUSETTS.

SHOE PPER AND METHOD OFIFINVISHIING THE ,nnens rnnnnor.

iApplicat-ibn filed Au ust 29, less. Serial No. 660,044.

.To all whom it may concern;

Be it known that I, .ALFREDJ. Tr-roaras,

a citizen of the United States of America,

and a resident of Braintree, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and usefullinprovements in Shoe Uppers and Methods of Finishing the Edges Thereof, of which-the following is a specification.

This invention relates to methods of finishing the edges of shoe uppers, the object ofthe invent-ion being the production of, a shoe upper with a corded edge, said'corded edge being substantially the same thickness as the reinainder'of the upper.-

For the purpose of illustrating the invention one preferred form thereof is shown in the drawings, this form having been found to give satisfactoryand reliable results, although it is to be understood that the various instrumentalities of which the invention consists can be variously arranged and organized, and that the invention is not limited 'to the precise arrangement and organization of the instrunientalities V as herein shown and described, except as required by the scope otthefappended'claims.

Of the drawings: 7 Flgure 1 represents a sectional plan of a portion oifa sewing machine having applied thereto an attachment by which the princi the present invention may be carried ples of out.

Figure represents a side elevation of the same.

Figure 3 represents a side elevation of the Figure 8 represents'a vertical section on line 8, 8 on Fig. 7. j

Figures 9 to 12 inclusive represent sectionaldetails of the successive positions of the tape and cord until secured to the upper. V Figure 13 represents a perspective of a portion of an upper with a. skived edge on its inner face.

Figure 14' representsa perspective '01 a" portion of said upper with the folded tape secured to the edge of its outer "face.

Figure 15'represents a'perspective of a portion of said upper with the folded tape intu'rned against the skived inner face, and

Figure 16 represents a perspective of a portion of said upper wlthfthe folded tape on its innerskived face and a lining to which said upper and tape is secured by a row of stitches. j

tainiilar characters indicate "like parts throughout the several figures of the draw-; ings. 'In the drawings, 10 is a: cylindrical ineni her or barrel, "forming a part of a. Singer scwing'machine, provided with a reciproeating needle, 11, a presser toot '12,. and a" feed foot 13, all of usual construction and iorining'no part ot' the' prescnt invention.

'lo the barrel 10 is secured a bracket 1-1, having pivoted thereto fat 15 a guideior ned intwo parts 16 and 17,.the' part 17 being adjustable relatively the part 16.

The bracket 14: has a slottherein through which extend'the claniping screws 18. By lOOSBlllllg-thfl screws 18, the bracket li rnay be adjusted horizontally and'tl'ien secured'in adjusted position by turning said clamping screws.

" lheguide member 16 has a slot 19therein concentric to the pivot 15, through which extends a clamp screw 20 to retain said mem her lfl-iiorinally in raised position.

By loosening the screw 20, the member 16 may lEG'IUOYGCi downwardly about'its pivot- 15,101' the purposev tobe; hereinafter descr'hedQ i 1 'iihisfinemhei' 16 has a lateral flange 21 at its outer end and a tape-receipingr opening 22 extending therethrough. i

The part 17 or the guide has a tube 23 extending there'through, the projecting end of which is positioned in the opening22 and is inclined-toward the outer wall thereof.

=The tube 23 is adapted toreceivea cord 24,'which is to beenclosed within a-fold25 of a tape 26 having selvage edges. 1

This 1ne1nber17 has its outer end wall 27 so shaped in conformity with the inner all of'the flangeQl that a curved passage'will be 'formed intowhich the tape 26 is adapted tobefed."

The opposite end of the member 17 is provided with a slot 28 in which are positioned the headedscrews 29 threaded to the member l6.

By loosening the screws 29, the member 17 may be adjusted relatively to the member 16 so as to accommodate the passage in the guide '16, 17 to different widths of tape 26.

As the tape 26 is fed through the passage in the guide 16, 1?, a narrow portion 30 thereof will be folded over to form the fold 25, and as the cord 24 isbeing fed simultaneously toward this fold 25, it will be positioned in said fold 25 as the tape 26 moves outwardly. from the opposite end'of said guide passage. I

The bracket 14 has a lateral shelf to which is secured a work support 31 consisting of a U-shaped plate, beneathwhich is disposed a plate having slots 32 in the inner end thereof, through which slots extend the headed screws 33 for securing the U-shaped plate to the bracket 14.

,The inner end of the plate is provided with a flange 33 by which the plate 32 may be adjusted relatively to. the U-shaped plate 31 when the screws 33 are loosened.

The outer end of the plate 32 forms, with the inner wall of the U-shaped bend of plate 31, a slot. 34 through which the folded tape 26, withthe cord 24 in its fold 25, is fed toward the needle 11, which is adapted to unite the edge of the folded portion to the body portion of the tape 26, with the cord 24 in the fold 25 thereof.

, Simultaneously with the feeding of the tape 26 and cord 24. an upper 35 of a shoe is fed toward the needle 11, while resting, inside up, upon the upper face of the U-shaped member orwork support 31.

Consequently, the same stitches which 7 unite the fold 25 to the body portionof the tape 26 .at the same time unite the tape 26 to the edge of the upper 35.

The edge of the upper 35 while feeding, bears against a shoulder 36 on a gage 37, adjustably mounted on the barrel 10, so that 'the folded tape 26 is secured a uniform distance from the edge of the upper. V

This gage 37 has a slot 38 inits opposite end through which the clamping screws 39 extend into the barrel 10.

When at the beginning of the operation, it is necessary to insert the tape 26 into its passage in guide 16,17, and the cord 24 intothe tube 23, the member 16 is moved downwardly about its pivot 15 so that the passage and tube will be out of alinement with the slot 34 in the work support 31, thus facilitating the insertion of thetape 26 and cord 24 and permitting the ends thereof to be pulled, through the passages therefor.

After sufhcient lengths of tape and cord have been pulled through the guide 16, 17, these ends are then inserted into the slot 34 and the subsequent operation of the sewing machine will then cause the tape 26 and cord 24 to be continuously drawn from the sources of supply.

means of this mechanism, the tape 26 may be folded with a cord 24in its fold 25, and'then at one operation the folded portion may be secured to the body of the tape 26 and also to the upper 35.,

The upper 35 preferably is skived on its inner face at the edge thereof, as indicated at 41 in Fig. 13. V 7

When the tape 26 with the cord 24 in a fold 25 thereof has been secured to the outer face of theskived edge 41 of the upper 35, only one thickness 42 of the tape 26 will extend beyond the edge of the upper 35 as shown in Fig. 14. v

The skived edge 41 and the under face of the thickness42 of the tape 26 then have adhesive cement applied thereto,'and said single thickness '42 of tape 26 is then inturned against the skived face 41. i

This inturning of the thickness 42 is preferably along the line of stitches uniting the tape 26 to the upper 35, and when inturned as shown in Fig. 15, a narrow portion of the skived edge 41 is turned in also, extending towardthe inturned single thickness 42 of tape 26.

By making the fold 25 from a very narrow portion of the tape 26 and leaving substantially only a single thickness of tape to be folded over onto the skived face 41, it makes it possible to have the folded portion no thicker than the body portion of the upper.

The lining 43 is then'positioned upon the inner face of the upper and is united thereto and to the body of the tape 26 and also the edge of the fold 25 by a row of stitches 44. V

The tape 26 which is used has. selvage edges and as the fold 25 is made, one selvage edge is closely adjacent the cord 24, and during the stitching operation, the needle 11 will pass through the fold 25 between said selvage edge and the cord '24, the stitches thus formed extending through portions of the cord at one side thereof, thus preventing the cord from slipping in the fold.

Bi-f stitching the fold 25 to the body por tion of tape 26, in the manner described, whenthe single thickness 42 of tape is inturned onto the skived face 41 of the upper 35, no part of the fold 25 will be intertween the inturned single thickness of tape posed between said skived edge #11 and single thickness 42 of tape 26, thus making a fold which is of the same thickness as the body of theupper No bulge, therefore, is formed along the edge of the upper which is a great advantage as if a bulge is formed, the beauty of'the shoe is greatlymarred.

This objection is whollyobviated by embodying the method herein described, and a better finished upper is attained than it has been possible to obtain heretofore Where a corded tape is secured to the edge of the upper. 1 .7 it 7 The tape 26 is drawn from a source of supply at the right of Fig; 2 so that the tape in passing through the guide 16, 17 will be drawn against the outer end of the member 1? and cause the edge of the tape 26 to coinmence its fold from the start through the guide 16, 17, the fold. being completed when the tape 26 and cord 24: leave said guide 16, 17. a

The slot 3% in the work support is tapered, being larger at the end nearest the guide 16,

I 17,, and as the tape 26 with the cord 24E in its fold 25 passes through said, slot 3%, the fold will be forced tightly against said cord 2 1 so that when it passes from said slot 3% to the needle 11, the selvage edge of the tape 26 will be closelyadjacent the cord 24 so that the stitches will pass through the fold 25 between said selvage edge and the adjacent side of said cord 24,

hen thin material is used for the upper, the same method may be employed without slriving the edge of the upper for, as only a single thickness of tape is interposed between the upper and vlining, the additional thickness will be hardly noticed. or

A great saving intiine is made by siinultaneously performing all these operations, and a rent advantage is gained lnasmuch as' no adhesive is required to retain the-parts in position until after the foldedtape is secured to the upper and this adhesive beand the shived portion of the upper may be entirely omitted if desired.

7 It is believed that the operation and many advantages of the invention will be understood readily without further description Having thus described my invention, I claim: I

1. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously fecdin 'a ta 3e a'cord and an u er having a skived face at one edge, folding a.

portion of said tape over the cord during the feeding operation, and stitching the folded tape to said upper on' its outer face adjacent the skived edge thereof.

2. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding a tape, a cord, and an upper having a skivedinncr face at one edge, foldinga portion of-said tape. over the cord during uniting the folded tape to said upper on its outer fage ad acent the edge thereof by a row of stitches passing through said folded tape contiguous to said cord. I

3. The method of finishing the edgesoi" the feeding operatioin'and at the sametiine.

shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding a tape, a cord, and an upper, folding a narrow portion of said tape over upon a wider portion thereof during the feeding said row of stitches,- placing a lining upon the inner-face of said upper and'inturned portions of said tape and upper, and finally and lining by uniting said tape, upper, another row of stitches. 4 I

1. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consistsin simultaneously feeding a tape, a cord, and an upper.

skived on its inner face at oneedge,ifolding V a narrow portion of said tape over upon a w der portionthereof during the feeding operation, inserting the cord into the fold of said tape as it is folded, uniting in one operation said folded portion to the body of the tape and to said upper: by a row of stitches, then turning inwardly a single thickness of the tape outside said row of stitches onto said skived face, placing a lining upon the inner face of said upper and inturned,pertion of :said tape, and finally uniting said tape, and lining,'by another rowofstitchesy Q H, I 5. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously" feeding a tape, a cord and anupper, folding:

a narrow portion ofsaid tape over upon a wider portion thereof during the operation, inserting said cord into the fold of said tape as it is folded, uniting in one operationsaid folded portion to the body of. the tape and i i tosaid upper by a row of stitches, then turn.

ing inwardly the body of the tape and the edge: of the upper outside said row of stitches, placing a lining uponthe inner face ofsaid' upper and inturned portions of said 7 tape andupper, and finally uniting said tape, and liningyby anotherrow of stitches adjacent to said cord. v i

6. The method of finishing the'edges of shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding an'upper, a tape, and'a cord, and at the same time folding a narrow portion of said tape over-said cord, uniting the body of the tape and its narrow folded portion to the outer face of said upper bya rowof stitches closely adjacent the outer margin' of said'edge, then turning inwardly a single thickness of tape outside said row of stitches onto the inner face of the upper, placing a linin on said inner face and inwardly folded thickness of tape, and linally uniting said lining and tape by another row of stitches.

'lhe method of finishing the edges of the shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding an upper, a tape and a cord, and at the same time folding a narrow portion of said tape over said cord, uniting at one operation. the bodyof the tape and its narrow folder portion to the outer face of said upper by a row of stitches closely adjacent the outer margin of said edge, then turning inwardly a single thickness of tape outside said row of stitches onto the inner face of the upper, placing a lining on said inner face and inwardly turned thickness of tape, and finally uniting said lining and tape by another row of stitches, positioned between said folded edge of the upper and the cord enclosed within said folded tape.

8.7 The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers having their inner faces skived near one edge which consists in simultanei. 'e i't a3 "(a z (usl fe ding a t e, coi l nd unei, ind

during such feeding operation, first folding a portion of the tape over the cord, and then uniting the folded edge of said tape to the outer face of said upper closely adjacent the outer niarginof said skive'd edge by a single row of stitches. 1

E). The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding a, tape, cord, and upper, and during such feeding operation, first folding a portion of the tape over. the cord, and then uniting the folded edge of saidtape to the outer face of said upper closely adjacent the outer margin of said edge by a single row of stitches passing through portions of said cord.

10. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding a tape with selvage edges, a cord, and an upper, and during such feeding oporation, first folding one selvage edge of the tape over the cord, and then uniting the folded edge of said tape to the outer face of sa d upper closely ad acent the outer margin of said edge by a single row of stitchespassing through the folded portion of said tape be tween its selrage edge and the center of said cord.

11. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers having a skived inner face at one edge, feeding said upper towards the needle of a sewing machine, simultaneously feeding a tape and a cord, folding a portion shoe uppers having a slri'ved inner face at one edge, feeding saidupper towards the needle of a sewing machine, simultaneously feeding a tape and a cord, folding a portion of the tape over the cord during the feeding operation, stitching "he folded tape to said upper on outer face closely adjacent the outer margin of said edge, turning inwardly a single thickness of the tape and the edge of the upper outside the row of stitches onto the skired inner face of said upper, placing a lining upon the inner face of said upper and inturned portions of said tape and upper, and then uniting said tape, upper and lining by another row of stitches.

13. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding said upper, a tape, and a cord, and at the same time, inserting the cord in'a fold of said tape, and then uniting said tape to the edge of said upper by a row of stitches.

14;. The method of finishing the edges of shoe uppers which consists in simultaneously feeding said upper, a tape, and a cord, and

folding the tape over said cord during the feeding operation, and then uniting the edges of said tape to the edge of said upper by a row of stitches.

Signed by me at 746 Old South Bldg, Boston, Mass, this lTth day of August, 1923.

ALFRED J. THOTXULS.

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