US1573807A - Fabric astd in loom employed in - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 23 1926.

c. B. CHASE FABRIC AND IN LOOM EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF Filed Nov. 6 192 W 2 Sheets-Sheet I. 3 .z. 3 T 1 if] 17\ i /16 EIIEZJEIETJHEHEI] EIIHIIJHEIHCZUEZUEZJ' mmmmmmm' 3 $7367? 3 M {$01M flu; 155 worna q,

Patented Feb. 23, 1926.

UNITED STATES PATENT ()FlFICE.

CHARLES BURDEN CHASE, OF FALL RIVER, MASSACHUSETTS.

FABRIC AND IN LOOM EMPLOYED IN THE MANUFACTURE THEREOF.

Application filed November 6, 1924.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES Bonner; CHASE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Fall River, in the county of Bristol and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Fabrics and in Looms Employed in the Manufacture Thereof, of which the following is a specification, reference being bad .10 therein to the accompanying drawings.

My invention relates to fabrics and the manufacture thereof, made up of a figure or a plain warp, a crinkle warp, and a weft; and particularly and broadly to a fabric that may have a longitudinal stripe of greater or less length made up of alternate sections of crinkle weave and jacquard figure, or plain weave.

To point out in a general way, the state of the art, I will refer to the bedspread art. A number of years ago, anew bedspread was developed called a crinkle spread. It was of cottolnand made from two warps and one weft; one warp being the jacquard or figured warp: the other being" a crinkled warp. It hadalternate longitudinal strlpes about an inch wide, of jacquard or dobby figure, and crinkle. This design extended across the fabric from selvage to selvage. The crinkle was obtained by using a vibrator. over which the crinkle warp passed. The vibrator, being attached by a long bar to the lay in the front of the loom, and to the frame at the rear ot the loom by a spring, moved forward with the lay, and back by the pull of thespring, with the lay, with the result that the crinkle warp was let in faster than the other or the jacquard warp, and a crinkle or fluted effect 'was produced in the woven crinkle warp. These crinkle spreads were manufactured as piece-goods, and cut oft in any desired lengths.

I have made these spreads, and also spreads with a' crinkle centre or bed-top part of the spread, with a jacquard border from the pattern warp, on the sidesot the quilt. Such latter spreads are madeas piece-goods, and cut the desired lengtln But it isto be noted that such spreads have no pattern border acrossthe ends of the spreads; that tor' tha-t, reasomthey do notappear complete a design rtlnt seem inifin ed; d

Serial No. 748,059.

to be made and sold by the yard, at so much 1 81,75.

Now the principal object of my invention is to weave a jacquard or a plain border across the end of a crinkle fabric, and I at tain this object by controlling the operation of the vibrator mechanism which, as pre viously stated, tightens and loosens the crinkle warp, to produce the crinkle fabric. To stop the crinkle weave, I throw the vibrator out of operation, the crinkle warp at once tightening up, and thus eliminating the crinkle, and becoming the tight tension of the jacquard figure or plain warp. the loom at once beginning to weave the desired acquard or figure or plain end-border, from what was, when loosened, the crinkle warp. but now is a pattern or plain warp. To repeat the crinkle weave, the vibrator may be thrown into operative connection with the lay, the warp ends becoming seasonably loosened and the crinkle weave immediately appearing in the woven fabric.

In short, I change, when desired, a warp from a crinkle warp into a figure or a plain warp or vice versa. i

F or the sake' ot making clear my inventron, I will consider it as en'lployed in weaving); a bedspread having; alternate crinkle and figured stripes, and a figured border on both sides and ends.

In the drawings illustrating the 'irinciple of my invention and the best mode now known to me of embodying the same in operative structure,

Fig. 1 is a somewhat dianrammatic drawinp, showing my invention in side elevation. the vibrator mechanism being discormcctcd from the lay of the loom:

Fig. 2 is a similar view showing said. mechanism in operative engagement with the lay;

Fig. is an enlarged cross-section on line 3-3 Fig. 2;

Fig. at is an enlarged cross-section on line l -40f Fig. 1;

Fig. 5 is an enlarged perspective view of guide-plate for vibrator bar;

Fig. 6 shows in plan, a bedspread having alternate crinkle and figured stripes, and a "figured border on sides and ends;

7 shows a bedspread; of lattice (1 Sign, the bars of which are a plain weave, while the spaces between are a crinkle weave.

The loom here shown has the usual crinkle warp 1 and beam 2, and figured warp f5 and beam at, vibrator 5, leaserods 6, hcddles 7, lay 8, cloth breast 9 and roll 10.

The vibrator is pivotally mounted in the frame 1O of the loom, and has one arm 11 secured to a spring 1.2, fastened to said frame, and an opposite arm 13 having pivotally connected thereto, a vibrator bar 142 notched at 15, on its under side near its free end portion, and'trce to slide in a slotted guide plate 16., fast to the top of the reed fixed to the lay 8.

A spring-lock plate 1'? fixed to the arch of the frame, and has, at its lower portion, a pin 18 upon which the vibrator bar 1& rests when inoperative, as in Fig. 1.

The heddles 7 are operated by a jacquard mechanism 19 which has its usual cardcylinder 20, heddle hooks 21, needles 22, and gritlblades 23 for operating the hooks; also a series of cards 23 for operating the heddles required by the design. It is to be remembered here, that through simple but well understood apparatus, not shown, the jacquard mechanism operates upon each pick.

In the end portion of each card, as 2st, of the pattern design corresponding to the picks calling for a change in the design, from a crinkle weave to a plain or a figured weave, or vice versa, is punched a stop vibrator hole 25 to receive a stop needle 26 which. controls the vibrator barhook 27, so that the latter is lifted by a griftblade 28 whenever a card, as 24, with a stop-vibrator hole 25, is presented to the needle 25; and, consequently, when the vibrator bar 14, connected to the hook by a coil spring 29 and a cord 80, is raised,the notch 15 becoming disengaged from the base of the slot in the guide plate 16 on the lay, and, when raised enough, becomes locked in raised position by a pin 18, Fig. 4, in the spring lock plate 17, the pin snapping under the bottom of the vibrator bar. But the moment the vibrator bar disengages the lay, the vibrator ceases to operate, the spring 12 pulling the vibrator arm 11 back against astop 31, Fig. 1; and the tension in the crinkle warp becomes and remains as taut as the figure or plain warp indicated in Fig. 1; the crinkle warp dis appears, and a figured or a plain weave be gins, as at a, Fig. 6, or at t, Fig. 7, and continues until the design calls for a repetition of the crinkle weave, at at a, Fig. 6, or at c, Fig. 7. But the moment that call is made, a start--vibrator hole 32, Fig. 1, in the card corresponding to the new pick, receives av start-needle 33 which controls the start 'vi-' brator bar hook Bet, connected by a cord to the lock-plate 17, so that the vibrator bar hook is lifted by the griiifblade 36, and

consequently the lock plate 17 Fig. 3, with its lock pin 18, is moved out ardly, the pin moving away from the vibrator bar, which at once drops its notched end engaging the plate 16, Fig. 2, on the lay; the vibrator al ternately tightening and loosening the crinkled warp threads upon each back and forward movement of the lay, as shown in Fig. 2; and the loom. again weaving the crinkle weave.

The notch 15 in the vibrator bar, and the position of the stop 31 for the vibrator arm, are so positioned that the movement of the lay moves the vibrator bar forward and back only a fraction of an inch enough for the teiision,tight or loosewanted.

It will be obvious that by tl'lti'lIlBCllitl'llSH] abovedescribed the fabric, as a bedspread, having a crinkle weave with a figured design on sides and ends, repeated as shown in Fig. 6, may be woven and later cut, as on the line 38, to "form the spreads of the right length.

Further, a fabric having crinkle weave sections separated transversely by a plain section may be woven, embodied as in a bedspread illustrated in Fig. 7. This spread has plain instead of figured edges and ends, and may be cut up, as at lines 39, in'such lengths as may be desired.

It will now be plain, that my purpose is to provide means whereby a plain weave or a I figured weave may be changed to acrinkle weave, or vice versa, when wished, and I do so by using a jacquard mechanism to move the vibrator bar into or out of operative engagement with the lay for the purpose of causing the vibrator to loosen or to tighten the crinkle warp when required.

It is to be understood, that I do not limit my invention to using a jacquard mechanism for indicating and lifting a start hook or a stop hook respectively connected to the vibrator bar and to the spring lock plate. Any other equivalent mechanism comes withinthe spirit of my invention. In fact, simple manipulation of the vibrator bar could conceivably accomplish the results brought about by the above-mentioned jacquard or similar mechanisms, and a vibrator bar capable of such manipulation would embody the broad purview of my invention.

The resulting fabric is new, and its novolty resides in having a crinkle weave or stripe 24, Figs. 6 and 7, of fabric, interrupted or followed by a different weave or figured fabric a, Fig. 6, or a plain fabric a, Fig. 7. As the'crinkle warp is let in faster than the jacquard or plain warp, to form the crinkle, obviously, inch for inch, the portion of warp used up by the crinkle weave is longer than the remaining portion used in the jacquard or the plain weave. For-eXa'mple, if the space a between the crinkle sections 10 m, Fig. 7, 1s one inch, thenif the last inch of the crinkle a: and the 1110119? plain weave 2 were woven, there would be two different weaves following from two ditfercnt tensions given in sequence upon the same warp, as by the ahove-described mechanism.

Desiring to protect my invention in the broadest manner legally possible, what I claim is:

1. In a loom, a lay; a warp beam; a vibrator to tighten and to loosen the warp, to weave a crinkle fabric; an operative connection between said lay and said vibrator, that may be broken or completed when desired to change from a crinkle to another weave, or vice versa.

2. In a loom, a lay; a warp beam; a vibrator to tighten and to loosen the warp to weave a-crinkle weave; means tofconnectmg and disconnecting the vibrator and the lay when desired, to weave and not to weave a crinkle weave.

3. In a loom, a lay; a warp beain; a vibrator to engage the warp from the beam; a pivotedvibrator operated in one direction by a spring; a bar pivoted to the vibrator. and having a notch, to fall into engagement with said lay; a spring bolt to secure or release said bar; mechanism, not only seasonably to lift said bar out of engagement with said lay and stop the oscillation of said vibrator, and cause the crinkle weave to cease, and a different weave having a warp With tight tension to be substituted, the

spring bolt engaging the bar and holding it out of engagement with said lay; but seasonably to release said bar to fall into operative engagement with said lay and to cause the vibrator again to oscillate to cause the weave to change to the crinkle weave to repeat the design.

l. In a looni, a lay; a warp beam for a crinkle warp; a warp beam for a different warp; a pivoted vibrator over which the crinkle warp passes; a spring to operate the vibrator in one direction; a bar pivoted to the vibrator, and having a notch near its free end, to fall into engagement with said lay; a spring bolt to hold or to release said bar; mechanism not only connected to said bar to lift said bar out of engagement with said lay and into engagen'ient with said spring bolt, stop the oscillation oi the vibrator, and the tightening and loosening of the crinkle warp, and giving said latter warp the tension of the different warps for a weave different from that of the crinkle weave; but also connected with said spring bolt to releaee seasonably later said bar. to fall into operative engagement with said ay and ease the vibrator to renew its oscillalions and cause the weave to change to the crinkle weave and repeat the design.

In testimony whereof I hereunto ailix my signature.

CHARLES BURDEN CHASE,

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