US1522134A - Stitched-down shoe - Google Patents

Stitched-down shoe Download PDF

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Publication number
US1522134A
US1522134A US608642A US60864222A US1522134A US 1522134 A US1522134 A US 1522134A US 608642 A US608642 A US 608642A US 60864222 A US60864222 A US 60864222A US 1522134 A US1522134 A US 1522134A
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Prior art keywords
shoe
welt
inner sole
sole
stitched
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US608642A
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Erwin B Loewenbach
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/08Turned footwear

Definitions

  • This invention relates to shoes and is particularly directed to shoes of the type known as stitched down shoes.
  • This invention is designed to overcome the above noted, and similar defects, and has, therefore, for its objects the provision i of a stitched down shoe in which the welt will be maintained in'close contact with the upper, in which a shoe of lasting shape is provided, in which curling of the margins of the inner sole is prevented, and in which great flexibility is secured.
  • Figure 2 is a view from the under side beforethe outer sole has been placed inposo 5
  • Figure 3 is ai section on the line of Figure 2.
  • I igure4 is a view of a modified form showmg the upper side of the inner sole
  • Figure 5 is a vertical sectional View through a shoe corresponding to the construction shown in Figure 4, and showing the foot in position with certain of the bonesof the foot indicated byshade lines.
  • the shoe comprisesan inner sole 1 which is provided with a channel or bevelled, marginal recess 2.
  • Thedownwardly flaring edge of this recess may intersect the bottom edge of the inner sole, as shown in Figure 1.
  • the top' ed e, however, of the recess intersects the vertical margin of the inner sole 1 and does not extend to the top edge of the inner sole, thereby leaving a thickened, or reinforced, edge 3 at the top of the inner sole.
  • Upper 4 is stitched to the inner sole 1 by means of stitching indicated at 5, which passes thru such upper and diagonally through the lower portion ofthe inner sole.
  • This stitching is spaced a slight distance fromthe outer edge of the upper so as to leave a flap'G-extending outwardly therefrom.
  • the partially finished shoe is then placed upon the outer sole 7 and a welting strip or welt 8, having either a bevelled inner edge or. a substantially a rounded inner edge as indicated at 9, is ositioned above the flap 6 and forced 1nwardly towards theinner sole -1, so as to wedge or bind a portion of the upper 4 within the channel 2, as may be seen from Figure 1;
  • t at the binding occurs at substantiallytwo oints of lines around the periphery of t e inner sole.
  • a further feature to be noted in connection with this construction is that the edges tion, so as to avoid this dificulty.
  • an arch support or shank 11 may be provided and may consist of a sheet of metal if desired.
  • This shank or arch support is positioned between the inner and the outer sole, and is provided with a rearwardly extending portion adapted to fit beneath the heel.
  • This rearwardly extending portion is provided with arcuate slot 12 and with one or more apertures 13 to accommodate the nails from the heel 142, (see Figure 5).
  • This arch support extends forwardly beneath the arch of the foot and terminates along a slanting line 15, just short of the forward edge of the metatarsal bone 16, (see Figures 2 and It will be seen, therefore, that this arch support or shank is rigidly bracedfrom the heel of the-shoe in addition to the bracing it .receives from the inner and outer soles. and that it acts somewhat in the nature of a cantilever.
  • This forwardly extending portion may be provided with apertures 17 to receive suitable fastening means, if desired. In order to.
  • the shoe In fitting deformed, misshapenor defective feet, it has heretofore been customary to build a shoe up and make it especially for the particular foot to be fitted. This is an extremely expensive process and is needless- 1y slow and complicated.-
  • the shoe forming the subject matter of this invention, may be provided with an extra sheet of material 20, upon the upper side of the inner sole'l, and such-sheet of material may be secured in position by means of the divergent curved ll-shaped lines of stitching '21 and 22 and the transverse line of stitching 23.
  • This construction provides a forward pocket'24, an inner side pocket 25, an outer side pocket 26, and a rear pocket 27 within any of which pads, or's'pring fillers may be positioned. If it is found that the arch needs supporting, a'
  • a filler or spring held pad, 28 may be placed-in the pocket 25. This support will beat-the correct place to give a firm, adequate and comfortable support a weakened arch. in the form shown in Figures 4 and 5, a filler or spring held pad, 28 has been positioned in the rear pocket 2?, so as to elevate the heel slightly in order to compensate for defects in the extra bearing for the lower portion of the foot and consequently relieves the ball of the foot of the excessive weight that it previeusly carried.
  • .Attention is called to the fact that the shape of the groove in the inner sole may be varied to suit the varying needs in diii'erent types ofgshoes, provided, that the interlocking feature of the welt and inner sole be retained. For instance, a mans heavy shoe with a heavy inner sole will have ample room for the groove. In the case of a light inner sole, it may be found necessary to provide an overlapping lip on the inner sole and an underlapping lip on the welt, thereby retaining the groove elfect and securing the interlocking.
  • a stitched down shoe comprising an inner sole having a channeled marginal edge and upper and lowerlips, an upper, securing means attaching said upper to the lower of said lips, said upper having a flap extending outwardly from said securing means, an

Description

Jan. 6, 1925. 1,522,134
E. B. LOEVYENBACH STITCHED DOWN SHOES Filed De 25,1922 2 Sheets-Sheet -1 Patented Jan. 6, 1925.-
UNITED STATES,
PATENT? orr cs.
ERWIN B. LOEWENBAGH, O'F MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN, ASSIGNOR TO SIGJlEUND JOSEPH PENTLER AND OTTO R. SHORT,
BOTH or. wAusAU, WISCONSIN.
srrrcnnn-nown' SHOE.
Application filed December 23, 1922. Serial No. 608,642;
To all whom it concern:
Be it lmown that I, ERWIN B. LOEWEN- men, a citizen of the United States, and
- resident of Milwaukee, in the county of Milwaukee and State of Wisconsin, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Stitched-Down Shoes, and I :do' hereby declare that the following is a full, I
ticularly. to the Figures 1 to 3 inclusive, it-
clear, and exact description thereof.
This invention relates to shoes and is particularly directed to shoes of the type known as stitched down shoes.
In stitched down shoes, as heretofore constructed, two difficulties have been experienced. One difliculty has been due to the fact that the welt frequently is slightly a spaced from-the lower portion of'the upper, or if not initially so spaced soon becomes spaced after the shoe' has been in servicev a 0.'short time. This results in a generally unsightly appearance and allows the shoe to become stretched or warped out of shape. The other difficulty is due to the fact that the marginal edges of the inner sole frequently turn or curl upwardly, thereby-producing considerable discomfort. This invention is designed to overcome the above noted, and similar defects, and has, therefore, for its objects the provision i of a stitched down shoe in which the welt will be maintained in'close contact with the upper, in which a shoe of lasting shape is provided, in which curling of the margins of the inner sole is prevented, and in which great flexibility is secured.
Further objects are to'provide a shoe in which a support for the arch is' secured, in which the required sprin iness, particularly upon the inner side oft e sole, is secured,
40 and in which provision is made in the finished shoe for fitting anyone of a variety of deformed or. unusual types of feet.
Embodiments of.the invention are shown.
ing or wedgmg position.
in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 1s a transverse sectional view through a shoe. j 1
" Figure 2 is a view from the under side beforethe outer sole has been placed inposo 5 Figure 3 is ai section on the line of Figure 2. I v
I igure4 is a view of a modified form showmg the upper side of the inner sole,
such view corresponding to a section on the hue 4-4 of Figure 5.
Figure 5 is a vertical sectional View through a shoe corresponding to the construction shown in Figure 4, and showing the foot in position with certain of the bonesof the foot indicated byshade lines.
Referring to the drawings, and more parwill be seen that the shoe comprisesan inner sole 1 which is provided with a channel or bevelled, marginal recess 2. Thedownwardly flaring edge of this recess may intersect the bottom edge of the inner sole, as shown in Figure 1. The top' ed e, however, of the recess intersects the vertical margin of the inner sole 1 and does not extend to the top edge of the inner sole, thereby leaving a thickened, or reinforced, edge 3 at the top of the inner sole. Upper 4; is stitched to the inner sole 1 by means of stitching indicated at 5, which passes thru such upper and diagonally through the lower portion ofthe inner sole. This stitching is spaced a slight distance fromthe outer edge of the upper so as to leave a flap'G-extending outwardly therefrom. The partially finished shoe is then placed upon the outer sole 7 and a welting strip or welt 8, having either a bevelled inner edge or. a substantially a rounded inner edge as indicated at 9, is ositioned above the flap 6 and forced 1nwardly towards theinner sole -1, so as to wedge or bind a portion of the upper 4 within the channel 2, as may be seen from Figure 1; As the inner-ed e of the welt is' rounded, it is to be noted t at the binding occurs at substantiallytwo oints of lines around the periphery of t e inner sole. While the welt is thus held in wedged position, a line of stitching 10 is passed thru the welt, thru the flap 6, and thru the outer sole 7, thereby. locking the welt in its bind- From the construction thus far described, his ap arent that there will be no gapsbetween the welt 8' and the upper 4, such as frequently occur in stitched down shoes. It is also to be noted that the upper 4 will not stretch. or pull out of position, as it is firmly wedged and locked in its correct osition by means of the channeled recess an the wed e 105 shaped welt 8. Theshoe, therefore, at a times will maintain a and attractive pearance and will not exaibit defects such as found in ordinary stitched down shoes.
A further feature to be noted in connection with this construction is that the edges tion, so as to avoid this dificulty.
if desired, an arch support or shank 11, see Figures 2 and 3, may be provided and may consist of a sheet of metal if desired. This shank or arch support is positioned between the inner and the outer sole, and is provided with a rearwardly extending portion adapted to fit beneath the heel. This rearwardly extending portion is provided with arcuate slot 12 and with one or more apertures 13 to accommodate the nails from the heel 142, (see Figure 5). This arch support extends forwardly beneath the arch of the foot and terminates along a slanting line 15, just short of the forward edge of the metatarsal bone 16, (see Figures 2 and It will be seen, therefore, that this arch support or shank is rigidly bracedfrom the heel of the-shoe in addition to the bracing it .receives from the inner and outer soles. and that it acts somewhat in the nature of a cantilever. This forwardly extending portion may be provided with apertures 17 to receive suitable fastening means, if desired. In order to. provide the requisite springiness along the outer sicleof the shoe V-shaped notches 18 are cut out in the arch support 11 so as to form in efiect, a plurality of spring tongues 19 extending towards the inner side of the shoe from the body of the arch support 11, as may be seen from Figures 2 and 3.
In fitting deformed, misshapenor defective feet, it has heretofore been customary to build a shoe up and make it especially for the particular foot to be fitted. This is an extremely expensive process and is needless- 1y slow and complicated.- In order to avoid this, the shoe, forming the subject matter of this invention, may be provided with an extra sheet of material 20, upon the upper side of the inner sole'l, and such-sheet of material may be secured in position by means of the divergent curved ll-shaped lines of stitching '21 and 22 and the transverse line of stitching 23. This construction provides a forward pocket'24, an inner side pocket 25, an outer side pocket 26, and a rear pocket 27 within any of which pads, or's'pring fillers may be positioned. If it is found that the arch needs supporting, a'
pad, or filler, may be placed-in the pocket 25. This support will beat-the correct place to give a firm, adequate and comfortable support a weakened arch. in the form shown in Figures 4 and 5, a filler or spring held pad, 28 has been positioned in the rear pocket 2?, so as to elevate the heel slightly in order to compensate for defects in the extra bearing for the lower portion of the foot and consequently relieves the ball of the foot of the excessive weight that it previeusly carried.
.Attention is called to the fact that the shape of the groove in the inner sole may be varied to suit the varying needs in diii'erent types ofgshoes, provided, that the interlocking feature of the welt and inner sole be retained. For instance, a mans heavy shoe with a heavy inner sole will have ample room for the groove. In the case of a light inner sole, it may be found necessary to provide an overlapping lip on the inner sole and an underlapping lip on the welt, thereby retaining the groove elfect and securing the interlocking.
It will be seen that a stitched down shoe and subsequently dries, it frequently hap- Ipens that with the old type of stitched down shoe the inner edge of the welt curls upwardly, thereby materially detracting from the appearance and serviceability of the shoe. This defect is wholly overcome by this invention, and the welt will, under all conditions, retain its fiat position.
It will further be. seen that a. foot supporting shoe has been provided in which a comfortable and accurate support for the arch is secured, and in which provision has been made for fitting a great variety of defective feet.
- I-claim:
A stitched down shoe comprising an inner sole having a channeled marginal edge and upper and lowerlips, an upper, securing means attaching said upper to the lower of said lips, said upper having a flap extending outwardly from said securing means, an
outer sole positioned below said inner sole fill ' and extending outwardly beyond said inner sole, a'welt strip having a beveled inner edge wedged against said upper and forcing said upper into binding contact with the channel 4 in said inner sole, said welt strip being free of attachment to said inner sole and being positioned flatly above .the flap of sai upper, and a line of stitching passing E'RWIN B. LOEWENBACH. V
strip, said flap and said 10
US608642A 1922-12-23 1922-12-23 Stitched-down shoe Expired - Lifetime US1522134A (en)

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