US1521853A - Shoe and the method of making shoes - Google Patents

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Jan. 1,521,353-

c. AUGUSTINE SHOE AND THE METHOD OF MAKING SHOES -Filed Feb. 8 1924 Fig-3" mpg/7m I Patented Jan. 6, 1925.

UNITED STATES CHARLES AUGUSTINE, OF WASHINGTON, MISSOURI, ASSIGNOR TO INTERNATIONAL PATENT OFFICE.

SHOE COMPANY, OF ST. LOUIS, MISSOURI, A CORPORATION OF MISSOURI.

SHOE AND THE METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Application filed February 8, 1924. Serial No. 691,494.

T 0 all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, CHARLES AUGUSTINE, a citizen of the United States, residing at Washington, Franklin County, Missouri, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Shoes and the Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to method of making shoes.

In the manufacture of shoes having what is commonly known as moccasin vamp two methods have been in vogue, one in which the vamp and tongue section thereof have been formed in separate pieces, said pieces being stitched together by hand; and the other in which the vamp as been made in one piece and a bead formed at the juncture of the vamp and tongue sections by sewing with a double needle three thread sewing machine a line of sitching around the section of the shoe and utilizing a cord secured beneath the vamp blank to elevate the surface of the vamp to form the bead, thereby simulating the appearance of the hand sewed moccasin vamp. This machine method of making what is commonly known as an imitation moccasin vamp has had several disadvantageous features, in that the bead having a continuous surface with the body of the vamp fails to simulate closely the true moccasin construction, and furthermore it has been necessary to use a relatively light thread for the stitching operation.

The present invention has for its object the making of a moccasin vamp shoe by utilizing, the continuous blank to-form the vamp body and tongue section, tracing a line around the juncture of the two sect-ions to cut the grain, doubling the material in such way as to form a parallel seam section, and sewing therethrough with a single needle two thread machine a row of stitching of relatively heavy waxed thread, thereby producing a finished product having the appearance of a hand made moccasin vamp.

The method is carried out according to the following detailed procedure, reference being made in the course of the disclosure to the accompanying drawing, in which- Fig. 1 is a plan View of a section of the shoe made according to the invention.

of Fig. 3.

In practicing the invention a blank 1 formed of a single piece of leather and shaped to form the vamp section of the shoe is first traced on the line 2 with a sharp instrument that cuts through the surface of the leather to break the surface grain.

Breaking of the surface grain on the line 2 7 gives sufficient flexibility along the line to' permit the blank to be doubled back upon itself and operated upon by a single needle two thread lock stitch machine, the line of stitching 3 being passed through the two parallel lapped edges. The stitching operation opens up the crease formed by the traced line 2 so .as toprovide when finished a raw edge 4 that gives the appearance closely simulating the raw edges of adjacent separated vamp and tongue sections ordinarily found in the hand sewed moccasin structure.

In the old method of making imitation moccasin shoes the stitch passed perpendicularly through the vamp blank on either side of a cord inserted beneath the juncture line, and a third thread extended under the cord. This method of manufacture merely raised the head around the line of separation. Moreover, it was necessary also to use a relatively thin thread, whereas by the present.

method a waxed thread of relatively large diameter is used, the thread passingtransyersely through the leather at the juncture me. a

After the Vamp section has been formed as described it may be utilized in the completion of the shoe by sewing to the outer edgesthereof a sole 5, and the upper of'the shoe is completed in any suitable manner.

What I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. That methodof making imitation moccasinyamp shoes, which comprises in tracing a line upon the vamp blank to define a juncture .between the vamp body and tongue section by cutting through the surface of the' material to break the surface grain; folding the blank along said traced line; and assing a transverse rowiof stitching around the folded portion below the surface cut. I

2. That method of making imitation moccasin .yamp shoes, which comprises in tracing a line upon the vamp blank to define a juncture between the vamp body and tongue section by cutting through the surface-of the material to, break the surface grain; folding the blank along said traced line; and stitching with a single needle two thread lock stitch wax coated thread a single row of stitching below said surface cut.

3. That method of making a shoe of the class described, which comprises in cutting a traced line 'on the surface of the vamp blank to form aline of separation between the vamp body and tongue section so that the surface grain of the material is cut through; folding the vamp blank along said line; and passmg a row of stitches transversely across the line and through the vamp body below said line thereby opening the surface of said cut to form a raw edged seam.

4. An imitation moccasin vamp shoe comprising a vamp body and a tongue section made in one'pieceand having a line out through the surface at the point of juncture of the two sections, and a row of stitching extending through the vamp blank at a point below said line.

\ CHARLES AUGUSTINE.

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