US1495254A - Attachment for sewing machines - Google Patents

Description

INVENTOR 44m l fi p g A ORNEY A H DE VOE ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed May 6, 1918 May 27 1924.

WITNESSES= Patented May 27, 1924.

STATS ALBERT H. DE VOE, OF WESTFIELD, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

ATTACHMENT FOR SEWING- MACHINES.

Application filed May 6,

To all whomit may concern:

Be it known that I, ALBERT H. DE Von, a citizen of the United States, residing at l/vestiield, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Attachments for Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to sewing machines and particularly to attachments therefor directing work to the needles.

In the stitching of circular articles such as sleeves, trousers, skirts, shirts and the like, it is desirable to continue the operation of the sewing machine without interruption until the circular seam is completed. Wherever two plies of fabric are seamed together, whether it be in a hem or in a lapped or felled seam, by the use of attachments, of which there are a great variety, having a lip or flange which controls the fabric as it advances under the needle and which is located normally in the line of seam formation, it is desirable to withdraw or retract the lip or flange from the line of seam formation when the initial stitches in their circular travel are about to approach the needle. It is an aim of this invention to provide simple and efficient means which are governed by the initial stitches uniting the superposed layers of fabric to effect withdrawal of an obstructing member and thus accomplish saving of the operators time and an increase in production.

Some circular, or tubular work, like sleeves, is relatively small in circumference and in hemming such size garments it is desirable to so arrange the hemmer on the machine that the garment can be encircled thereabouts. A further aim of this invention is to improve the arrangement of under hemmers for sewing machines so that it will be possible to hem under the margin of a small circular garment with facility.

The invention is embodied in a form of hemmer similar to that disclosed in my Patent No. 1,443,680, of January 30, 1923, of which it forms a continuation in part and to the construction disclosed in which has been added a latching mechanism holding a retractable member in normal operating or hemming position against the action of a concealed thrust-spring until the latching mechanism is tripped by the initially 1918. Serial No. 232,708.

formed stitches as they approach the presserfoot and the concealed spring allowed to displace the retractable member from itsobstructing position in the line of seamformation to a non-obstructing position at one side thereof.

Other objects of the present'invention will appear in the following detail description of an illustrated form of my invention which is shown in the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is an end elevation of an attachment in which the invention has been embodied applied to a tubular arm sewing machine. Fig. 2 is a plan view thereof. Figs. 3 and 4 are perspective views of the hemming attachment per se. Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a base or block part thereof. Fig. 6 a perspective of a retractable folding member or lip, and Fig. 7 a perspective view of the attachment andwork show ing the manner of its use with the retractable lip in normal operating or hemming position.

The attachment,in which the invention is embodied and its principles illustrated, is preferably but not necessarily sustained at one side of the tubular or work-supporting arm 1 of a sewing machine whose stitchforming mechanism comprises a pair of needles 2 and a cooperating looper 3 located in the end of the arm adjacent the feed-dog 4: which advances the work thereacross and cooperates withv a presser-foot 5 of any suitable form. Any suitable mechanism may be employed to operate the parts mentioned which are old and well known in the art and need no further description.

The attachment in which the principle of the present invention is incorporated for the purpose of illustration, is in the form of a hemmer, indicated generally by the numeral 6. It comprises a base or block 7, a main folding portion 8 and'a supplementary folding member or lip 9. The three parts are assembled as shown best in Figs. 3, 4 and 7 with the supplementary folding member or lip 9 movably supported on top of the block and the main folding portion 8 adjustably supported on the bottom thereof.

The block 7 is provided with a curved bracket-arm 10 having elongated slots 11 receiving screws 12 clamping the attachment adj ustably to the arm 1 in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, the elongated slots 11 permitting adjustment transeena-5e versely to the line of seam-formati0n. A concave edge-turning wall 13 is formed in one side of the block and a projection 14 carries this edge-turning wall into proximity with the cooperating feed-dog and presser-foot, the said projection 14- being located in advance of the needles 2 between which it directs the inner edge fold of the hem.

The main folding portion 8 on the bottom of the block 7 is formed with broad and narrow tongues 15 and 16, respectively, which are spaced apart and guided by the ribs 17 and 18 formed on the bottom of a the block 7. In the tongue 15 an elongated slot 19 is formed and a thumb-screw 20 threaded into the block, clamps the main folding portion 8 in a position suited to the width of hem to be made. From the tongue 15 and 16 the main folding portion 8 slopes slightly upward forming the bottom wall 21 of a hem-folding cavity whose outer wall is defined by a concave bend 22 and overhanging flange 23 at the end of the upwardly sloping bottom wall 21. Towards the presser-foot the bend and flange 23 are extended beyond the main body .of the attachment so as to guide and control the material as close to the needles as possible. If desired the extension may be made long enough to reach alongside of the presser-foot.

The supplemental folding member or lip 9 on top of the block 7 is provided with a depending flange 25 secured at right angles to which is a pin 26, preferably by a screw 27 threaded into one end thereof. The pin 26 is slidably mounted in a horizontally arranged socket 28 and a spring 29, in asocket 29 in the block, tends to hold the lip 9 in a retracted position, as shown in Figs. 3 and 4, such position being determined by a shoulder or stop 30 formed on the lip 9 and adapted to abut against the side of a vertical plate 31, sunk in the end of the block 7 and secured thereto by a screw 32, with its upper end projecting a short dis tance above the top of the block. The folding member or lip 9 is moved manually to normal operating or hemming position which is determined by engagement of the depending flange 25 with the outside wall or face 33 of the block 7. In this position the lip is adapted to be held by a latching mechanism comprising a trip 34; having a shoulder 35 and pivoted at 36 to the upper surface of the lip, a spring 37 reacting at its free end against a stud 38 and tending to hold the shoulder 35 of the trip 34 in the path of the above mentioned Vertical plate 31, and thus to prevent the thrust spring 29 from displacing the lip from its normal operating or hemming position in which it overhangs the concave edge-turn mg wall 13.

In the attachment constructed as described, there is thus provided a hem forming cavity which is defined by the concave edge-turning wall 13 of the block 7, by the sloping bottom wall 21, concave bend 22 and overhanging flange :23 of the main-folding portion 8, and by the supplementary folding member or lip 9. The concave edgeturning wall 13 and lip 9 fold the raw edge of the material in and out of sight between the body fabric, which passes over the lip 9, and the under turned margin of the fabric which is folded by the main folding portion 8.

When a circular hem is about to be com pletely stitched, i. e., when its initially formed stitches are reapproaching the stitch-forming mechanism, they strike the trip 34;, overcoming the light pressure of spring 37, moving the shoulder 35 from be- 9 hind the vertical plate 31, thus allowing the spring 29 to pull the supplemental folding member or lip 9 out of its obstructing position in the line of seam-formation and to one side thereof, so that the circular seam may be completed without stopping the machine. It will thus be seen that automatic means is provided whereby the supplemental folding member or guide-lip 9 is automatically released and moved away from the line of seam-formation to an inoperative position at the proper time in distinction from a device that is manually operated. Thus, in addition to saving time, it gives more uniform operation, the lip always being moved to inoperative position at the same time in the separate stitching operations.

\Vhile the invention has been described as applied to a two-needle single-looper machine, because of the desirability in certain kinds of knit goods work of laying a covering thread over the inner edge fold of the hem, it is obvious that the invention is applicable to almost any type of stitclr forming mechanism for uniting superimposed layers of fabric. Clearly therefore the invention is applicable to a single-needle machine of a chain or lock-stitch type, if the advantage of the covering thread is not considered worth. the cost of the additional thread consumed in making the seam. And further while the invention is shown em bodied in a hemming attachment there are certain broad aspects of it which render it applicable to attachments other than hemmers, any attachment in factwhich controls the passage to the stitch-forming mechanism of circular work of which it is de sirable to unite superimposed layers, as in lap or fell seaming, binding and the like operations.

With the hemming attachment which has been described above, it will be possible for an operator to increase her capacity and handle a greater number of garments a day.

The initially formed stitches of a circular hem are allowed to approach close enough to the needles before the retractable lip is withdrawn from its obstructing position to insure uniformity throughout the extent of the circular hem when completely seamed. Furthermore when a machine is being operated at a high speed the time interval required to stitch from the needles to the receiving end of the hemmer is so short that distortion of the folded condition of the goods during the time the lip is retracted is extremely unlikely. And finally it is noted that disposition of the under hemmer on the end of a feed-across-the-arm sewing machine permits the circular seaming of relatively small tubular articles.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a fabric folding device having a folding element in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism and normally in the line of seam formation, and automatically acting means including a work-governed release element for moving said folding element to one side of the line of seam formation whereby the stitching of a circular article may be completed with out stopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

2. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a device for controlling the work as it advances to the stitchforming mechanism, said device being located in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism and normally in the line of seam formation, and automatically acting means including a work governed release element for removing the device from its normal position in the line of seam formation to permit the completion of a circular seam without stopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

3. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism", a hemmer having a folding element in advance of the stitchforming mechanism and normally in the line. of seam-formation, and automatically acting means including a release element governed by the initial stitch of a circular hem for moving said folding element to one side of the line of scam formation, whereby the stitching of the circular hem may be completed without stopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

4. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a hemmer having a hem-forming cavity, a lip forming a portion of said hem-forming cavity and located in the line of seam formation in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, means tending to hold said lip out of the line of seam formation, and work controlled means freeing the lip for movement from a position in the line of seam formation by the action of said first-mentioned means to permit complete seaming of acircular hem without stoppingthe machine.

5. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a hemmer having a hem-folding cavity, an automatically retractable lip defining a portion of said cavity when in its normal hemming position, and work-governed tripping means carried by said lip whereby it may be released for movement from operative hemming position in the line of seam formation to one side of the line of seam formation.

6. In a sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, in combination with a hemmer having a hem-folding cavity, a retractable member defining a portion of said hem-forming cavity when in its operative position, and means including a trip for moving said retractable member to a retracted position.

7. In a sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism, in combination with a hemmer having a hem-folding cavity, a retractable member defining a portion of said hem-forming cavity when in its operative position, andmeans including a trip for moving said member to a retracted position, said trip being located in the line of scam formation.

8. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination with a hemmer having a movable portion located in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism and in the line of seam formation during a normal hemming operation, a spring for holding said movable portion in a retracted position to one side of the line of seam formation. latching mechanism for holding said movable portion in an operative position in the line of seam formation, said latching mechanism being arranged to be tripped by the action of the initial stitches of a circular hem when nearing completion to avoid stopping the stitch-forming mechanism.

9. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination with a hammer having a displaceable portion located in the line of seam formation during a normal hemming opera-tion, automatic means for shifting said displaceable portion from a position in to a position at one side of the line of seam formation, and means for holding said displaceable portion in the line of seam formation, said last named means cooperating with the work to free the retractable portion for shifting by the automatic means.

10. A sewing machine having stitch-fornr ing mechanism, in combination with a hemmer having a hem-forming cavity, a retractable member forming a portion of said hemforming cavity and located in the line of seam formation in advance of the stitch.-

ping the machine.

11. A sewing machine having stitch-formingn'iechanism, in combination with a hemmer for turning under the margin of fabric, and having ahem-forming cavity, a bodily retractable member over which fabric is adapted to pass and adjacent which its edge is folded, and automatic means in eluding a work-governed trip for moving said member away from the line of seam formation at a given time during a stitching operation.

12. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination with a hemmer for turning under the margin of fabric, and having a hem-forming cavity, a bodily retractable member over which fabric is adapted to pass and adjacent which its edge is folded, and automatic means for moving said member away from the line of seam formation, said automatic means including a spring and a latching mechanism.

13. A sewing machine having a worksupporting arm, feeding mechanism for ad vancing the work across the arm, and stitch forming mechanism, in combination with a hemmer sustained by said work-supporting arm in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism and having a hem-forming cavity for turning a margin of the work beneath the body thereof, said hemmer also having a retractable element defining a portion of the cavity and means for retracting said element and work governed means for maintaining the element in hemming position and for releasing the element for retractionwhen the work being done arrives at a definitely stitched condition.

14. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination with an attachment located in advance ofthe stitch forming mechanism and directing the work thereto, said attachment having a retractable element, and automatically acting means including a work-governed trip for retracting the element to permit the completion of a circular seam.

15. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, in combination with an attachment for directing the work under the needle, said attachment having a shiftable elementin part at least directly in front of the needle and normally obstructing the complete stitching of an endless seam, and detaining means coacting with the initial stitches of an endless seam when they approach the needle to eflect the eeaaea release of the shiftable element for removal from the normal position in which it obstructs the complete stitching of an endless seam to a non-obstructing position at one side of the line of seam formation.

16. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, in combination with an attachment for directing the work under the needle, said attachment having a shiftable element in part at least directly in front of the needle and normally obstructing the complete stitching of an endless seam, and detaining means on the shiftable element coacting with the initial stitches of an endless seam when they approach the needle to effect the release of the shiftable element for removal from the normal position in which it obstructs the complete stitching of an endless seam to a nonobstructing position at one side of the line of seam formation.

17. A sewing machine having stitch-"forming mechanism, in combination with a workguiding attachment having normally stationary relatively movable parts, and automatically acting means including a workcontrolled releasing device for retracting one of them at a given time during a stitching operation.

18. A hemmer for making an endless under-turned 'hem having an up-turned concave wall terminating in an overhanging flange, an oppositely arranged guide-wall and lip, a spring normally urging said lip away from said flange, and a spring-presseddetent for holding the lip in hemming relation adjacent the flange and against the action of said spring.

19. A hemmer for making an endless under-turned hem having an up-turned con cave wall terminating in an overhanging flange, an oppositely arranged guide-wall and lip, a spring normally urging said lip away from said flange, and readily disengaged means for holding the lip in hemming relation against the action of said spring.

20. In a sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, in combination, a hemmer for folding and guiding fabric to the needle, an element of said hemmer being in obstructing position in front of the needle and across the path in which the initial stitches of an endless hem travel, said element being shiftable in part at least in the direction of the line of seam-formation in its movement to an unobstructive position and being shiftable by the initial stitches of an endless hem whereby an operator is enabled to uninterruptedly stitch circular articles without stopping the machine and without, manually retracting its obstructing element.

21. In a sewing machine having stitchforming mechanism including a needle, in combination with a hemmer having a lip for guiding the in-turned margin of the work adjacent its edge, a spring for shifting said lip relative to the line of seamformation which extends through the needle-path in the direction. of feed, a latching device for holding said lip in a normal operating position obstructing the complete stitching of a circular hem and against the action of said spring, the latching device 10 being governable by the initial stitches to permit shifting of the lip relative to the line of seam-formation.

22. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination, a movable 15 work-guiding means, means for detaining said guiding means in work-guiding position, and automatic means acting, when the guiding means is released, to move said guiding means to an inoperative position.

23. A sewing machine having stitch-forming mechanism, in combination, a retractible work-guiding means, releasable means governed by the Work for retaining said guiding means in operative position, and automatic means, acting when the guiding means is released, to move said guiding meansto inoperative position.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

ALBERT H. DE VOE.

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