US1485693A - Lace - Google Patents

Description

March 4, 19% Mg A. E. NEWTON LACE l Eiled Dec. 13, 1.22 2 Sheets-Sheet I March 4, w24. A 3,485,693

l A. E. NEWTON f LACE Filed nec. 13, 1922 2 Sheets-sheet 2 wzf, Mr/Mam?? @ym @1.0mm L www?? Patented Mar. 4, 3.24..

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ALBERT E. NEWTON, OF `JVE'ISLL BAREENGTGN, RHODE ISLAND, SSIGNOR TO RHODE ISLAND LACE TWORKS, 0F "WEST BARRNGTGN, RHDE SLAND, A CORPORATION 0F RHODE ISLAND.

LACE.

Application led December 13, 1922. Serial No. 606,611.

To all whom it may conce/rn.'

Be it known that I, ALBERT E. Nnwron, a citizen of the United States, residing at West Barrington, in the county of Bristol and State of Rhode Island, have invented certain new and useful lmprovements in Lace, of which the following is a specifica-- tion.

My invention relates to improvements in lace, and in the art of its manufacture.

One object of my invention is to produce as a new article of manufacture a lace wherein the desired threads, usually the gimp threads are more closely and tightly interlaced than has been heretofore possible in laces, thus producing a lace of closer texture than formerly, and one which gives the appearance of being woven.

A further object of my invention is to produce a lace of such close texture that it may be embossed, and retain the embossed marks thereon, as illustrated in my copending application for Letters Patent on embossed lace, Serial No. 601,868, filed November 18th, 1922.

A further object of my invention is to produce a lace which is so closely constructed that it may furnish some degree of warmth and protection to the wearer, without sacrilicing the usual lovely effect of ornamentation of laces. As will be apparent from the description below, the threads on the front surface may overlap the thread on the back, and if desired the front and back threads may be laid contiguously to the adjacent front and back threads, thus normally offering two thicknesses of threads to the wearer, and also if desired the lace. may be so closely constructed that the front and back threads overlap the adjacent front and back threads, respectively, thus producing three or more thicknesses of threads in one section, with added thickness and warmth.

A further object of myinvention is to provide a lace which may be used as a wearing apparel without a background.

A. further obj ect of my invention is to produce a lace which, for the utilitarian reasons given above, may be classed as a necessity rather than a luxury.

j A further object of my invention isto provide a lace of greater strength and durability than has heretofore been possible.

A further object of my invention is to produce a lace wherein the gimp threads appear to be in continuous parallel alignment on the entire front surface of the lace or mat. Of necessity, the gimp threads must be twisted around the bobbin threads, but due to the construction herein specified, of having the gimp threads vertically overlap adjacent gimp threads twisted around the same bobbin thread and to the close packing of the lace, the joinings or twists are so obscured as to be practically invisible, thus producing the effect mentioned above. To the casual observer the lines usually so apparent in lace are eliminated.

These and such other features rof my invention as may hereinafter appear, will be best understood from a description of one embodiment thereof, such as is shown in the accompanying drawings which illustrate a lace constructed in accordance with my invention on a Levers lace machine.

In the drawings, Fig. 1 is a plan view of a section of a lace or a gimped mat of a lace.

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic plan view of a lace constructed in accordance with my inv ention, enlarged approximately `fifteen times.

Fig. 3 is a section of the lace shown in Fig. 2 taken along the lines 3-3.

Fig. f1- is a diagrammatic plan view of a lace constructed in accordance with my invention, but with the gimp threads on the front and back thereof overlapping adjacent gimp threads on they front and back thereof, respectively, enlarged approximately fifteen times.

Fig. 5 is a cross section of the lace shown in Fig. 4L along the lines 5--5.

Fig. 6 is a d'esigners draft tracing the theoretical course of the threads.

Fig. 7 is a designers reading off sheet, having reference to the actual necessary motions of the jacquard and other parts of a Levers lace machine to produce a lace constructed in accordance with my invention, as illustrated in the preceding figures.

In the drawings, wherein like characters of reference indicate like parts throughout, Fig. l is a plan view showing the front of a gimped mat constructed in accordance with my invention, as it appears to the eye. It is apparent that it is almost impossible to note the joinings or twists, and that the gimp threads appear to be in continuous parallel threads, outline threads,

alignment along the entire surface of the front thereof.

rlhough laceeonstructed in accordance with my invention is peculiarly adapted tobe embossed, and retain the embossed marks thereon, in accordance with my Vcopending application for Letters Patent tor embossed lace, Serial No. 601,868, tiled November 18th, 1922, as the fabric is ci such close texture and so tightly twist-ed and interlaced that it will'retain the embossed marks thereon better than any other lace lrnown, it is distinctly not so limited to an embossing' use, but 'terms ot iiselt a lovely and useful lace, as explained above.

Though l have shown a lace constructed on a Levers lace machine, it is distinctly understood that my invention is not limited to laces constructed on that type oi' machine, but includes any and all types of laces, embroidered, hand-made, machinemade or otherwise, constructed in accordance with my invention, as explained below.

lf will explain for purposes ot illustration, how lace in accordance with my invention may be constructed ou a Levers lace machine. rllhe desired gimp threads are attached to the desired gimp bars, which are attached to the jacquard as usual, as is incicated in Fig. 7 which is a view ot a lace designers reading otl sheet. The gimp threads are taken from their respective individual gimp beams which entend as usual throughout the length of the machine, and are threaded up to co-act in series in tiXed relation to each other, in respect to the bobbin threads, l have chosen tor illustration the gimp threads 2a, d, 6a, which illustrate any three adjacent gimp threads attached to the appropriate gimp bars. The course ot these same threads may be traced in the designer-s draiit shown in Fig. 5, and in the enlarged views ol the finished lace shown in Figs. 2, 3, 4 and 5. lu 243, l also show the bobbin threads l-l0, which swing in the bobbins while the warp threads, i. e. ground threads l5 and gimp threads 2, 4l", Ga, etc. attached to their respective bars are twisted around them by the movements of the bars, as usual. All the bobbin threads swing back and forth in their respective carriages simultaneously. llhe bobbin threads l-l0 which have to function in their respective carriages are usually lighter' than the threads that come from the beams below and work in bars. @it these latter, which may be generally caller warp threads, there are several varieties: gimp ground or net threads, etc. The last class are also specifically called warp threads, in the trade. gimp thread is defined in the trade as a thread thrown from a plurality ot bobbin threads. Each individual gimp thread may be drawn from a small lightJ individual isi-eases beam so as to facilitate the 'free movements of the thread, and threaded through its appropriate bar, although it may be drawn trom a heavier warp in conjunction With other gimp threads, all threads being threaded in their appropriate bars. l employ the gimp threads 2a, 4;, 6a etc. to give body or substance to the desired heavierV parts of the lace. For this purpose and because they are subjected, as we shall see, in twisting to greater strain, being carried back and forth over comparatively greater distances than the other warp threads in the saine periods et time, they are normally slightly heavier though otherwise similar in structure to the other warp threads. rlhe designers draft, shown in Figure (i, is, as usual, merely illustrative ot the motions ot the threads, and diagrammatic as to thread configuration, the true relative constructions of the threads being shown in Figures 2-5.

The spaces between the bobbin threads are called stops. (the distance between the respective bobbin threads being commonly called a gait, as distinmiished from the space between them which is commonly called a stop) andO-l0 stops are shown in Figs. 2 6. For purposes of illustration, l have assumed that the gimp bars are adjusted in proper relation Vto 0 stop, and the bobbin threads numbered in relation thereto. he ends ot' the gimp threads are moved on the trent and-back motions of the gimp bars, to the desired stops, and twisted around the desired bobbin threads as numerically Aindica-ted in Fig. 7. The diagram in Figure 7, however, only illustrates the action of the gimp bars. Thus every trent motion will be a motion to the left, and every back motion will be a motion to the right on the sheets, the exact reverse of the motions on the machine as indicated in Figs. 2-6. 'lhus every front or odd numbered motion will be a motion to the lett, and every back or even numbered motion will be 'a motion to the right. The column of tigures at the left termed motions thus designates two respective motions., the odd numbers to the front or lett, and the even numbers to the bach or right. rlhe iigures at the lett of each group et the three individual groups to the right represent the actual stops that the gimp bars will be under or the gimp threads will be in at the end ot each respective front or odd numbered motions. shown in the diagram 5. 7, 9, for the end ot #l motionV etc. and the ligures on the right ot each o'roup ot the three individual groups to the right represent the stops that the gimp bars will actually be under at the end of the respective back or even numbered motions, numbers O, 2 and 4 for the end of #2 motion, more specifically as to respective motions and twists, as follows: At the start of #l molOl) tion a front motion of the gimp bars, the ends vof the gimp threads 2a, 4a, 6, will be in stops 1, 3, 5, respectively. On #l motion the gimp threads 2a, 4, 6a, are right twisted around the bobbin threads 2', 4', 6', respectively, and are moved under the bobbin threads from stops 1, 3, 5, to stops 5, 7, 9 respectively. They are then right twisted around the bobbin threads 5', 7', 9', respectively, and -are moved over the bobbin threads from stops 5, 7, 9, to stops 0, 2 and 4 on :ft2 motion of the gimp bars, a back motion. They are then right twisted around the bobbin threads 1', 3', 5', respectively and are moved under the bobbin threads from stops 0, 2, 4 to stops 6, 8, 1() on :#53 motion of the gimp bars, a front motion. They are then right twisted around thexbobbin threads 6', 8', and 10', respectively, and are moved over the bobbin threads from stops 6, 8, 10 to stops 1, 3, 5, the starting stops, on #4 motion of the gimp bars, a back motion. From here the cycle of motions is repeated numbers 5, 9, 13, etc., motions being the exact repetitions of #l motion, numbers 6, 10 and 14, etc., being exact repetitions of #2 motion, etc., and so on through regular four motion cycles as the lace is twisted and made. It is thus apparent that the gimp threads coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads, are right twisted around certain bobbin threads from above and moved under four bobbin threads on :#:1 front motion of the gimp bars, are right twisted around the last bobbin thread at the lateral end of the prior motion from below and moved over five bobbin threads on :#:2 back motion of the gimp bars, are right twisted around the last bobbin thread at the lateral end of the next prior motion from above and moved under six bobbin threads on #3 front motion of the gimp bars, and are right twisted around the last bobbin thread at the lateral end of the next prior motion and moved over five bobbin threads back to the starting point or stop on number 4 back motion of'the gimp bars, and so lon in fixed cycles as the lace is twisted and made, in four motion repeats right twist around. four under, right twist around five over, right twist around six under, right twist aroundfive over.y The actual course of the threads by motions and reference characters may thus Vbe readily traced from Fig. 7, the ldesignefs reading ofi` sheet, into Fig. 6, the designers theoretical draft, and into Figs. 2-5, the enlarged diagrammatic plan and section views of the finished lace. It is obvious that the gimp threads passing over the bobbin threads will form the front surface of the lace, and that the ones passing under the bobbin threads will form the back. Though I have shown a 4 motion repeat or cycle, it is obvious that that the gimp threads coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads, are in fixed cycles as the lace is twisted and made, led back and forth, over and under varying plurality of bobbin threads, and twisted around certain predetermined bobbin threads.

By adjacent threads I mean the near or nearest threads, not necessarily touching. I

employ the word contiguous in its literal sense as meaning touching. IVhen referring to the gimp threads as either adjacent or contiguous I refer both to the actually different threads attached to adjacent gimp bars, and to adjacent motions on the front and back of the lace of the same actual threads. A lace constructed as stated above may be so twisted and so loosely packed that the threads on the front will not overlap the threads on the back, yet such a lace will still be within my invention. For purposes of more clearly illustrating the features of the twist, l I have diagrammatically shown in Figs. 2 and 3, a lace wherein the gimp threads on the front only partially overlap the gimp threads on the back. The problem in the lace industry that my invention really solves, however, is that of producing a compact lace with the advantages before mentioned, and the great feature of my invention is that a lace constructed as explained above may be so closely twisted, interlaced and packed that either (a) the gimp threads on the front will substantially overlap the gimp threads on the back, or (b) lthe adjacent gimp threads on the front and back will be laid substantially contiguously to each other, or (c) as is shown in Figs. 4 and 5, the gimp threads on the front will substantially overlap adjacent gimp threads on the front and the gimp threads on the back will substantially overlap adjacent gimp threads on the back, thus forming in one section approximately three or more thicknesses of thread. Figs. 4 and 5 as explained are of the same theoretical construction as Figs. 2 and 3, but either made of heavier thread or more closely interlaced, twisted o'r packed. I claim that I show for the first time a lace construction that can be made to solve the beforem'entioned problems, and that showing a lace construction that does solve these problems, I am entitled to claim broadly as a new article of manufacture not only a lace constructed theoretically in accordance with my invention, but also all types and manners of laces wherein the gimp threads are laid contiguously to each other, and form a compact surface of contiguously touching threads, usually of two gimp threads in thickness in cross section all over the desired parts of the lace, and all types and manners of laces wherein the gimp threads on the front and back actually overlap adjacent gimp threads on the front and back respectively, throughout the desired parts of the lace, and form a compact surface usually three or more gimp threads thick in cross section. Thus the entire surface of the desired part of the lace is compactly filled with threads, without 'air holes, the desired warmth is given, the necessity of using a background is dispensed with, and the lace is stronger and more durable than any heretofore known. When the lace is embossed, as the threads are compressed on and against each other as in Schreinering, the marks are retained. The lace is so compactly fabricated, and the twists and joints so obscured, that the gimp threads appear on the surface thereof to be in almost continuous parallel alignment.

Figs. 2-5 are also partially diagrammatic as usually in practice the bobbin threads get pulled out of straight alignment, thus giving more room for the vertical overlapping of the different adjacent gimp threads around the same bobbin threads. Though my invention is complete without the addition of ground or warp threads 15, they are preferably inserted to bind the gimp threads 2a, il, 6a etc. to the bobbin threads l to 10 etc. and retain the lace structure in compact relation. The ground or warp threads 15 are all taken from large warp beams which extend throughout the length of the machine. rlwo of these warp or ground beams may be placed in the rear of the individual gimp beams, and threads from these beams threaded up to the desired bars. The ground bars and threads are moved one stop each movement of the gimp bars. This will result in twisting simultaneously two warp threads l5 around each bobbin thread, each thread a right or left twist by the movements of their own bars, each motion of the gimp bars. As the ground thread beams are placed bvehind the individual gimp beams, the ground threads l5 will entwine each gimp thread on its back run as it passes by each bobbin thread, and bind each back run ofthe gimp threads to the bobbin threads l to 10 on the front motions of the gimp bars on the rear surface of the desired heavier parts of the lace. llhe retaining of gimp threads and bobbin threads in place by additional warp or ground binding threads is old in the art, and for that reason l have not illustrated them in detail in Figures 2-6. l have merely indicated them at l5 in the diagrammatic designers draft 6, as twisted around one bob- Leashes Abin thread, though in practice in most cases they would be twisted around each bobbin thread and'entwined around each run of the gimp threads to bind the gimp and bobbin threads together to compactly retain the lace structure in position. As desired either the whole surface of the lace may be constructed in accordance with my invention, or only portions of the gimped mat.

lt is understood that the invention is not limited to the specific embodiments shown, and that various deviations may be made therefrom without departing from the spirit and scope of the appended claims.v

What l claim as new and desire to secure as Letters Patent is:

1. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads are twisted around certain bobbin threads from above and led under a plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under andV led over a different plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from above around the last bobbin threads just passed over and led under a different plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over a different plurality of bobbin threads back to the starting stop, and are repeatedly'led over the same cycle as the lace is twisted.

Q. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads are twisted around certain bobbin threads from above and led i under a plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over a different plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from above around the last bobbin threads just passed over and led under a different plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over a different plurality of bobbin threads back to the starting stop, and are repeatedly led over the same cycle as the lace is twisted, the threads being so closely interlaced, twisted and packed that the gimp threads on the front substantially overlap the gimp threads on the back.

3. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads are twisted around certain bobbin threads from above and led under a plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over a different plurality Vof bobbin threads, are twisted from above around the last bobbin threads just passed over and led under a different plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over a different plurality of bobbin threads back to the starting stop, and are repeatedly led over the same cycle as the lace is twisted, in such a manner that adjacent gimp threads on the front and back thereof are laid substantially contiguously to each other.

4. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads are twisted around cer tain bobbin threads from above and led under a plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over a different plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from above around the last bobbin threads just passed over and led under a different plurality of bobbin threads, are twisted from below around the 'last bobbin threads just passed under and led over a different plurality of bobbin threads back to the starting stop, and are repeatedly led over the same` cycle as the lace is twisted, the threads being so closely interlaced, twisted and packed that the gimp threads on the front substantially overlap the gimp threads on the back and adjacent gimp threads on the front substantially overlap adjacent gimp threads on the front and adjacent gimp threads on the back substantially overlap adjacent gimp threads on the back.

5. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads, coacting in series in xed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads, are right twisted around certain bobbin threads from above and led under four bobbin threads, are right twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over five bobbin threads, are right twisted from above around the last bobbin threads just passed over and led under six bobbin threads, are right twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over five bobbin threads back to the starting stop and are repeatedly led over the same cycle as the lace is twisted.

6. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads, coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads, are right twisted around certain bobbin threads from above and led under four bobbin threads, are right twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over five bobbin threads, are right twisted from above around the last bobbin threads just passed over and led under six bobbin threads, are right twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over five bobbin threads back to the starting stop and are repeatedly led over the same cycle as the lace is twisted, the threads being so closely interlaced twisted and packed that the gimp threads on the front substantially overlap the gimp threads on the back.

7. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads, coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads, are right twisted around certain bobbin threads from above and led under four bobbin threads, are right twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over ve bobbin threads, are right twisted from above around the last bobbin threads just passed over and led under six bobbin threads, are right twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over five bobbin threads back to the Starting stop and are repeatedly led over the same cycle as the lace is twisted, in suoli a manner that adjacent gimp threads on the front and back thereofl are laid substantially contiguously to each other.

8. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads, coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads, are right twisted around certain bobbin threads from above and led under four bobbin threads, are right twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over five bobbin threads, are right twisted from above around the last bobbin Vthreads just passed over and led under six bobbin threads, are right twisted from below around the last bobbin threads just passed under and led over five bobbin threads back to the starting stop and are repeatedly led over the same cycle as the lace is twisted, the threads being so closely interlaced, twisted and packed that the gimp threads on the front substantially overlap the gimp threads on the back and adjacent gimp threads on the front substantially overlap adjacent gimp threads on the front and adjacent gimp threads on the back substantially overlap adjacent gimp threads on the back.

9. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads, coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in res ect to the bobbin threads, are led back an forth over and under varying pluralities of bobbin threads, and twisted around the last bobbin threads of each of the pluralities, in cycles as the lace is twisted.

10. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein the gimp threads, coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bobbin threads, are led back and forth over and under varying pluralities of bobbin threads, and twisted around the last bobbin threads of each of the pluralities, in cycles as the lace is twisted, the threads being so closely interlaced, twisted and packed that the gimp threads on the front #substantially overlap the gimp threads on last bohbin threads of each of the plu-v ralities, iii cycles as the iaee is twisted, in such a ii'iaiiner that adjacent giinp threads on the front t" bach'V thereof are laid substantially contiguously to each other.

As a new article of inanufacturc, a lace wherein the giinp threads, coacting in series in fixed relation to each other in respect to the bohbin threads, are led bach and forth over and under varying pluralities of bobbin threads, and twisted around the last bobbiii threads of each of the plui'alities, in cycles as the lace .is twisted, the threads being` so closely interlaced, twisted and packed that the ginip threads on the front substantially overlap the giinp threads on the baci-z and adjacent ginip threads on the front substantially overlap adjacent gimp threads on the front and adjacent giinp threads on the back substantially overlap adjacent gimp threads on the back.

i3. As a new article of manufacture, a lace wherein adjacent giinp threads on the front and back thereof are respectively laid contiguously to each other, so as to forni aA coinpact surface of contiguously touching threads, two gimp threads thick in cioss section, throughout the desired parts of the lace.

lll. As a new7 article of manufacture, a lace wherein the giinp threads on the front substantially overlap adjacent giinp threads on the front, and the giinp threads on the back substantially overlap adjacent gimp ressens threads on the back so as to forni a coin- 15. l lace comprising bobbin threads and l giinp threads looped around the bobbin threads, the joinings of the loops being eiffset and received substantially Within adjacent loops when the giinp threads are pacl: ld together.

53. it lace comprising bobbiii threads and griiiip threads twisted around the bobbin threads, adjacent runs of the `ijiinp threads 1 f unequal in length.

s. A lace comprising bobbiii threads, threads twisted around the bebbin il feads, adjacent runs of the gimp threads be'ngf unequal in length, and additional warp lfiinding threads twisted around the bobbin threads and entWined around the `eiiii p threads at each meeting point of bobbiii and ginip threads.

i8. A lace comprising bobbin threads, `'iinp threads twisted around the bobbin threads, adjacent runs of the giinp threads bong unequal in length, and additional m p binding threads twisted around the bo abin threads and entivined around the gimp threads at each meeting` point of bobbin and giinp threads on the runs of giinp reads on the rear surface of the lace. l

`yfriinp threads t y'isted back and forth around 9. A lace comprising bobbin threads and the bobbin threads, the joinings between adjacent giinp threads being offset and the joinings received substantially between adjacent g'iinp threads whereby the ginip threads appear to be in parallel aligninenten the entire front of the desired parts of the lace. Y i Y ln testimony whereof l affixrny signature.Y

ALBERT n. nnvvroii.

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