US1475690A - Shoe last - Google Patents

Description

Nov; 27 1923 F. G. DELBON SHOE LAST Filed Oct. 19. 1921 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR [E A/Yb 04 50 ATTORNEY Nov. 27, 1923 DELBON SHOE LAST 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 XI ull I'Il I :11. "*FATTORNEY Patented Nov. 27, 1923.

UNITED STATES FRANK G. DELBON, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

SHOE LAST.

Application filed October 19, 1921.

To all whom "it may concern:

Be it known that I, FRANK G. DimnoN, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoe Lasts, of which the following is a specification.

The invention consists in the production of a novel last for use in the manufacture of shoes adapted to the feet of men, women and children.

The last of my invention is built on lines and in accordance with a system of measurements which have not heretofore been followed in the manufacture of lasts, and this same system may be properly followed in the grading of the sizes of lasts or the development of a set of lasts from, say, a 4B model.

One object of the invention is to provide for the manufacture of shoes (from a small size for children to a large size for adults) suited to the geometrical and anatomical construction of a normal human foot and adapted to preserve, or regain where lost, the original lines of the foot, the shoes also being of good appearance and faultless fit.

My invention therefore provides a shoe last which is novel in its form and relative proportions and produced by a system adapted to be followed in the production of a set of lasts or lasts of graded sizes.

I11 carrying out my invention I have had particular regard to the proper maintenance in a normal working condition of the various bones, joints and ligaments of the human foot, to preserve the normal condition of the plantar arch and to restore such arch, if weakened, to a normal working condition, and to provide for the foot what I may term an effectual three-part-support. as will be explained hereinafter.

The admeasurements and system by which I produce my novel last may be better understood on reference to the drawings illustrative of the same. I may say generally however that the last both longitudinally and transversely considered is subdivided into three parts or divisions, one-third in length extending from the toe to the ball and twothirds extending from the heel to the ball, while the division line for the instep is onehalf of the length of the last.

The invention will be fully understood from the detailed description hereinafter Serial No. 508,650.

presented, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig.1 is a side elevation, diagrammatically shown, of a last embodying the features of my invention, Fig. 1 showing a diagram of the lines on which the adlneasurements or relative proportions of the last are patterned;

Fig. 2 is a side elevation of the finished last;

Fig. 3 is a top view of the same;

Fig. 4 is a bottom view of the same;

Fig. 5 is a vertical transverse section through the same, taken on the dotted line 55 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 6 is a further side elevation of the last illustrating the method followed for patterning the last in accordance with the varying heights of the heels to be employed on the shoes made therefrom;

Fig. 7 is a diagram of a human foot with scale lines indicated thereon denoting a portion of my method for obtaining the outlines for the last, and

Fig. 8 is a plan View defining a further portion of my method for obtaining the correct outlines for the last.

In constructing my last 1 make it longer than the human foot so as to allow space in the shoes for the freedom of the toes, and this extension of the last is represented by the line X in Figs. 1, 6, 7 and 8. This extension X is usual in the construction of lasts and is additional to and forms no part of my system in attaining the proper adpoeasurements for the main portion of the ast.

In arriving at the proper proportions for the pattern or model last. I start within the confines of an angle represented by a horizontal line A and a vertical line B, and. referring to Fig. 1, determine the height of the heel for the shoe to be built, this height, as an illustration, being represented. by the line The length of the last, .disregarding the extension X, is evenly divided longitudinally into thirds. as indicated by the lines D. E. F. one-third of the length extending from the toe to the sesamoid bones or the anterior ends of the metatarsal bones. denoted at the line G, and the other two-thirds of the length extending from the said line G to the back heel-line H. I also subdivide the length for the last by a central vertical line I, which divides the last ill) into two equal parts and is an instep defining line for a human foot standing on a flat horizontal surface. The line 1 changes position in accordance with the height of the heel line 0, since when consideration is paid to the height of the heel the rear end of the last becomes more or less elevated above the base line A, and. in the diagram shown in Fig. 1, I indicate the instep line I, due to the elevation of the heel. part of the last, as having been deflected forwardly to the position of and forming line J. In my pattern and system a straight upwardly and rearwardly inclined line K extends from the anterior end of the metatarsal bones, denoted at line G, to the lower rear edge of the heel portion 10 of the last, and this line K always being followed regard less of the height of the heel line C, the instep-line J must intersect with it and the vertical line I, at the point-L, the line J being at right angles to the line K. A ball admeasurement line M is drawn at right angles to the forward end of the line K, and this line M in the primary ad measurement; of the human foot standing flat starts at the line N which is at right angles at the base lineA and denotes onethird of the length of the foot. The tilting of the rear end of the last upwardly in accordance with the heel admeasure' ment throws the line N forwardly to the position of the ball line M. The waist line for the last is determined by the line 0 which extends from the upper end of the ball line M to the intersection point L or lower end of the instep line J. The waist measurement for the last is around the last on the line 0, and I call attention to the fact that in accordance with my invention this waist measure line extends dow" wardly and. rearwardly and. considered from the inner side of the foot extends from a point above the anterior end of the large metatarsal to a point below the rear end of said bone, as may be understood on reference to Fig. 7, said line extending around the foot and not crossing on said anterior end. of said bone. Both lines J, M

stand at right angles to the line and are.

parallel with each other. The point L is a fixed point. and the intersecting point of lines M and 0' will follow the thickness of the foot and accordingly with the thickness of the last and the consequent necessary. height of the line M, but wherever such intersecting point may be located the waist measure will be around the foot on said point and the point L or on theline U.

'Sineethe intersecting: point of'lines M and 0 becomes higheror lower in accordance with the thicknessdesired for the last, the angle-between thelines O and K will vary accordingly; There can. be no fixed angle between" lines" 0 and-K except for one ea aces known thickness of last and one known heel height. The intersecting point of the lines W G. is always definite. since with any desired thickness of last, said point is on the line hit at the top of the last, whether the last is two inches thick at said line or of greater or less thickness, and the waist line 0 will extend from said point on line M determined by the thickness of the last, to the aforesaid point L.

The upper instep point for the last from which the shoe ci'irves upwardly to the front portion of the leg, is denoted at P, and this point, according to my system. in every vertical thickness of the last required, will always be on the line Q, which starting from the juncture ot the angle-lines A, B, inclines n1 vardly and forwardly and stands on an angle of degrees to both lines A, B. The admeasurement for the back part of the last is found by the line B which inclines rearwardly from the pointP to the lower rear point of the heel portion 10 of the last at the vertical line B. The angle of the line R necessarily varies in accordance with the location of the point P on the line Q, this location varying with the heelheight and the initial thickness of the last at the instep thereof, but said line It whatever its angle may be is definitely located and will correctly give the back measure for the last. Lasts n'iust vary in thickness in, accordance with the feet for which the shoes are to be made, and with my inventhe high instep point of the last. denoted at P, when positioned on the right angle line. Q, with the baclr of the heel of the last against the vertical. line B, enables me to obtain a correct back admeasurcment on the line for all lasts regardless of their thicle ncss. since with each thickness of last the pointPthereof is a definite point for that thickness and when posi ioned on the line Q. with the back of the heel portion against the line B. the adineasurement on the line It for that thickness is correct.

An essential considcratimi in the manu facture of lasts consists in giving the proper curvature to the inner side thereof between the ball and the heel. The extent and character of this curvature is in'iportant especially when the plantar arch of the foot is to be properly supported. in accordance with my system 1. find it entirely convenient to lay out the curvature i'or the inne side of the arch of the last by the diagram represented in Fig. l, in which I show a line S drawn. parallel with the base line K and starting from the intersection point at the upper ends of the ball line M and waistline U, this line S extending upwardly and. rearwardly parallel with the line K and at right angles to the ball-line M. A. vertical line Y denotes the rear one-third division of the length of'the foot, and this line T, as

ill?) the heel portion of the last is raised or lowered in accordance with the heel height line (J, becomes deflected with relation to the last, and when the last is for a heel of the height of the line C, the upper portion of the line T breaks at the base line K and becomes defiected forwardly and then constitutes the line U, the position of this line U varying with the height desired for the heel of the shoe. In the present instance the break of the line T is denoted at the line K, and the line U standing at right angles to the line K and extending to the line S denotes the central point V for the curvature to be formed at the inner arch side of the last. The upper line for the curvature at the inner side of the last extends on the arc of a circle from the juncture or ball point of the lines K, M, through the point V and to the rear end of the line K at the heel portion of the last, and said are line is denoted by the letter IV. The curvature of the last, at the sole portion thereof and at the base of the aforesaid arch curvature, is defined by the are lines Z, Y, the line Z extending downwardly and forwardly on a convex are from the point V to the intersection point of the lines K, M. and the line Y extending downwardly and rearwardly on a concave arc from the point V to the front of the heel rest. The arc-line Z is struck from a point representing the apex of an equilateral triangle whose base would be represented by a straight line drawn from the point V to the aforesaid intersection point of the lines K, M. The arcline Y is struck from a point representing the apex of an equilateral triangle whose base would be represented by a straight line drawn from the point V to the point on the heel line B at which the line B of Fig. 1 would if continued toward the right cross said line B.

In Fig. 6 I present a diagram illustrating the changes in the various lines hcreinbcforo referred to which take place with variations in the height of the heel desired for the shoe to be made from the last, and tierein I denote the several heel height lines by a, b, 0, respectively. When the heel height is that represented by the line a. the base line K at Fig. I will become situated at line I\'; when the heel height. is represented by the line (1 the line I; oi Fig. l lacomcs posh tinned at line K", and when the heel height is represented by the line 0 the line K of Fig. 1 becomes positioned at line K. \Vith the varying heel heights the foot center line I remains in its central position and the instep line J of Fig. 1 becomes positioned at J, J" and J, respectively, while the ball line M of the natural foot. when standing flat, becomes positioned at the lines M, M" and M' of Fig. 6. In regard to the various heights of heels for the shoes I may say that additional diagram lines in Fig. 6, having indicated the main lines therein with the changes following the different heights for the heels.

In Fig. 7 I represent on a diagrammatic representation of the human foot, the instep line J, ball line M, base line K, 45 angle line Q, and the admeasurement line It corresponding with the same lines presented in Fig. .1.

In Fig. 8, which represents the sole por tion of the last and gives an outline for the insole pattern, it will be seen that the bot tom of the last is divided into thirds and halves in length, the same as the admeasurements shown in Fig. 1, and that longitudinally the last is divided into thirds to harmonize with foot admeasurements and serve as a guide for the formation of the last, the division lines for the thirds being lettered d and the line for the halves being indicated at e. The diagram in Fig. 8 is outlined by an oblong, and a diagonal line 7' extends from the lower corner of the oblong at one end of the outline to the opposite upper corncr portion of the oblong at the upper end of the extension line X. The oblong shown in Fig. 8, aside from the extension at X, has a width equal to one third of its length. The line 9 is the transverse ball line, and it stands at right angles to the line f and extends from the point G rearwardly to the opposite side of the foot or the sole of the last, finding its true position by starting at G and extending at right angles across the line I also apply on the diagram shown in Fig. 8 a guiding or direction line 71. which also is at right angles to the line f and starts at the one third division point 2'. and extends on a roarward incline across to the opposite side of the foot and finding its position from the fact that it starts at the point i and crosses the aforesaid line 7'' at right angles thereto. The upper end of the line 7b (looking at Fig. 8) extends toward the heel one-third of the distance between the line (Z and the heel end of the last or of the oblong represented in Fig. 9. The metatarsal arch is defined between the lines 9, 72 the curvature at the inner side of the last and'shoe being forwardly of the curvature of the last for the outer side of the shoe, as represented by the diagonal disposition of the lines 9, h.

The line 7 denotes the ball line for the sole of the last and consequently for the shoe, and the line it defines the forward edge of the heel-seat and which on the last is usually represented by a metal plate as shown in Figs. 2 and 4:.

The curved lines Z, Y denote approxiiii) lfii) mat'ely the curvatures carried down under the sole of the last, the line Z extending from the point V of Fig. 1 downwardly and forwardly under the shank and vanishing under the hall 1" the sole, as indicated in Fig. 4t, and the line Y, starting at the point- V, curving downwardly and rearwardly un der the shank to the point of the line it where the same meets the forward corner of the heel-rest at the inner side of the-last. Between the lines Z, Y is formed the deeper concavity of the recess at the inner side of the shank oi the last. In Fig. 1- I have indicat-ed the line U to illustrate its direction and terminus under the shank of the last, said concavity along and adjacent to said line affording an. effective support for the transverse arch oil. the toot and stopping at a line about two-thirds across the bottom ot' the last toward the outer side thereof whereat in a foot is located the fifth metatarsal.

The last constructed in accordance with the method or system hereinbet'ore described is illustrated in 1 to 5 inclusive, in which designates the last as a whole, and 10 the heel portion, 16 the shank, 1? the forward sole and 18 the instep portions there of. The heel portion 10 usually has secured on its lower side a metal heel plate 19, and in the illustration I have shown the last as made in two parts 20, 21, but the last may be formed in one piece of material it de sired. The forward sole portion 17 ot the last is about one-third of the length of the shoe to be produced, plus an extension for the toe, represented by the line X in Figv 1. The last made in accordance with my sys tem has a more elevated instep 18 than s usual in lasts and a smaller waist portion measured. on the line 0 than lasts as heretofore constructed, and these proportions as to the instep and waist result in a better fitting shoe.

The instep portion 18 of the last is of special forn'iation, as shown in Figs. 3 and 5, being of sharp triangular or cross-section and having its apex or sharp ridge 22 extending downwardly and forwardly in an approximately straight line toward that portion of the last representing the large toe of the foot, said ridge 22 being, as shown in Fig, 3, slantingly directed toward. the inner side ot the -forward end of: the last and. at its forward portion being on. a concave curve and merging into the upper forward portion 01 the last at about the upper end ot the bal line M. In its upper portion the ridge or apenline 22 is on a convex curve, and hencesaid line as a wholerepresents a compound curve. The triangular"formation of the instep portion 18 becomes less acute toward the forward portion of the last and finally disappears in the general upper surface of the forward portion of the last. The high point for the instep portionot the last is denoted at P, this being the point at which the material. of ashoe made on the last would turn upwardly to form the ankle portion of the shoe. The location of the intersection point P on the line Q will vary with the height of the heel to be worn. The point P becomes more or less elevated according to the heel-height, as represented in Fig. 6, said point P being on the line Q where said. line crosses upwardly from the upper edge or thickness-line 01 the last. The line lit drawn :trom' the lower back point of the heel across the line Q at the point P creates an intersection point, which represents the high point tor the instep and from which on the line B the measurement for the back portion of the last is given, the line R passing around the last on the angle shown representing such measurement, and the intersecting point P positioning the line H for correct measurement.

At the inner side oil the ridge or apex line 22, the last extends downwardly there from on a convex; curve 28 to the upper outer edges of a recess 2st which 1 form at the inner side of the shank portion of the last and which is of material in'iportance and considerable dimensions, said recess being generally defined by the arched line W in Fig. 1 and having a curved convex surface formation and being longitudinally c'oncaved and extending down under the shank ot the last and terminating at its for ward edge slightly in rear of the ball line g of Fig. 8; as shown inv Fig. 41, and at its rearward portion ending at the apex of a longitudinal triangular ridge or rib which is positioned adjacent to the outer side of the last and sets in from the outer side edge of the shank a distance about mic-third oi? the width of the shank. The outer side ct the shank is curredv inwardly under the shank on a convex surface 'lorinutiou to the longitudinalridge or rib thereby torniing an outer side recess 26 and aiding in the formation of said ridge 25. At its forward end the ridge terminates in a triangula. formation 27 (Fig. 4-) upon which and directly to the trout oi the ridg 5 is a downwardly projecting convex elevation 25 this being located in position to toruuv a shallow seat in the sole of a shoe for the anterior end of the outer side metatarsal hone ot the foot. The ridge or rib f3 ults in t is l' n'- mation in. the shoe ma: our the last. longitudinal seat or rest tor the outer bones of the foot which are low at this location and arewith the use of my iurention permitted to take a natural comfortable position and not compelled to withstand pressures-except those intended by nature for them; this feature of my last I regard as important and entirely novel.

At its foriard edge the recess 2% curves inwardly and rearwardly below the shank,

as denoted at the line 29 in Fig. 4, and just forward of said line 29 the ball of the last is formed with a downwardly extending convex projection 30, whose presence on the last results in the formation in a shoe made therefrom of a concave seat for the sesamoid bone on or the anterior end of the inner side metatarsal bone of the foot.

Between the projections 28, 30 on the sole portion of the last, the last is sligthly concaved, as at 31, to meet the natural requirements of the forward end of the plantar arch of the foot.

The bottom portion of my last provides a shoe sole adapted to enable a foot to have the strains thereon properly distribi'ited and thereby to prevent such strains from weak ening or otherwise injuring the ligaments of the foot. The major portion of the weight of the human body on a foot should be received by the inner side of the foot, and this I provide for by the extent of the recess 24-. which provides, in the shoe, a full bearing support for the fleshy part of the foot under the arch and for the bones of the arch. The bottom portion of my last provides, in the shoe, what I regard as a threepart support for the foot, one being at the heel, which gives support to the main arch from the high instep to the ankle and to the main leg structure; another being at the walls of the recess 24: from the heel to the projection 30, and the third being from the heel along the ridge 25 to the projection 28.

-" The anterior portion of the metatarsal arch or ball of the foot is not only supported by the seats alforded by the projections 28, 30, but also by the material between said seats, and undue strain thereon is prevented by the supports aiforded by the ridge 25 and walls of the recesses 24:, 26.

My last has been designed with the view of so distributing the strains on a foot as to avoid weakening of or other injury to the ligaments about the tarsal and metatarsal bones, to properly support the plantar arch and to provide efficient bearing surfaces for the sole portion of a foot, having regard not only to the support afforded by the sole of a shoe generally but to a support which will ensure comfort to the wearer of the shoe and save the foot against the effects of an unnatural distribution of strains thereon.

The last shown and produced by the system l have hereinbefore outlined, is adapted to the production of shoes suited to the geometrical and anatomical construction of the human foot, to preserve the arch construction of the foot and to relieve the foot from the effects of weakened arches.

I have hereinbefore indicated certain relative proportions for certain parts of the last and these admeasurements should be followed when the best results are to be atta-ined. I do not limit my invention, however, to the exact proportions stated, since to do so would leavemy invention open to appropriation by others on slight modification of the admeasurements indicated. I regard my last as distinctly novel and as constituting an important advance in the art and hence desire to receive adequate protection for my invention.

lVhat I claim as my invention and desire to secure by Letters-Patent, is:

1. A shoe-last of the character described having at its inner side a concave arched recess spreadin downwardly and longitudinally below tie shank of the last and en tending from the ball line to the heel, said arched recess also extending transversely across the shank on curved lines for a distance approximately twothirds of the width of the shank, whereby a substantial arch is provided to create in a shoe an arch support for the first, second, third and fourth metatarsals and inner portion of the plantar fascia, and said last having at its outer side a comparatively shallow arched recess having convex surfaces and extending transversely across the shank a distance approximately one-third of the width of the shank, and said shank having at the line between said inner and outer side arches a longitudinal ridge to form in the shoe a rest and support for the fifth metatarsal and outer portions of the plantar fascia.

2. A shoe-last as claimed in claim 1, in which the forward portion of the inner side arched recess extends inwardly and rearwardly on a rearwardly curved line at the rear end of the inner side portion of the sole, and in which the forward portion of the outer side arched recess extends inwardly and rearwardly at the rear end of the outer side portion of the sole, and in which the inner side recess extends forwardly on concave lines into the middle portion of the rear end of the sole to adapt the shoe for the requirements of the forward end of the plantar arch of the foot and leave at opposite sides of said concave portion seats for the anterior ends of the first and fifth metatarsals.

3. A shoe-last of the character described having a forward portion about one-third of the length of the last and 21 waist portion determined between two upwardly and forwardly inclined parallel lines one of which denotes the mesne instep portion of the last, said lines standing at right angles to an inclined base line running from the ball of the last to the outer end of the heelseat, and the forward one of said parallel lines at its lower end starting from the forward end of said inclined line, and the other of said parallel lines intersecting said inclined line at a point denoting one-half of the length of the last, the admeasurement of said waist portion being on an inclined line extending from the point on said forward line denoting the thickness of the last at that portion .to the intersecting point of the rear one of said parallel lines with said base line.

4. A shoe-last of the character described having a forward portion which is about one-third of the length or the last, a waist portion and an upper instep portion, said Waist portion being determined between two upwardly and forwardly inclined parallel lines, the rear one of which denotes the inesne instep portion of the last, said lines standing at right angles to :an inclined base line running fI'OlIlthG ball. or" the last to the outer end oi. the heel-seat and the :t'orward one of said parallel lines at its lower end starting from the forward end of said inclined line, and the other of said parallel lines intersecting said inclined line at a point denoting one-half of the length of the last, the adnieasureinent of said wais portion being on an inclined line extending from the point on said forward line denoting the thickness of the last that portion to the intersecting point of the rear one of said parallel lines with said base line, and the adineasureinent for the back portion of the last being, on an inclined line extending from the high instep point of the last to the rear end of .the heel seat for the net when said instep point is on a line extended through the last from the vertex of and biscctinga right angle confiningthe last at its sole and back portions.

5. A shoe-last of the character descril ed having a sharply defined instep portion of triangular cross sectioinand the admeasurement for the back portion of the last being on an inclined line extending from the high instep point of thelast to the rear end of the heel seat for the last when said point is on a line extended through the last from the vertex of and biseeting a right angle conlining the last at its sole and back portions.

6. A shoe-last of the character described having a forward portion which is about one third of the length of the last, the ballportion of the last being at the rear end of this one-third division, an inner side concave arched recess spreading downwardly and longitudinallv below the shank of the last and terminatin at its front portion adjacent to the hall of the last and at its rear portion at the side of the heel-seat, said recess being confined between an inclined base line extending from the base of said one-third division of the last to the lower rear edge of the heel-seat and an upper inclined line parallel with said base line and extending through the heel portion of the last from a point denoted at the upper end 01 a line extending upwardly and forwardly from and at. a right angle to the forward end of said base line and ending at the top of the last, and the deeper iniddle portion of the recess being denoted by a line connecting said inclined parallel. lines and starting from the middle point of said base line and standing at a right angle thereto.

Signed at New York city, in the county of New York and State of New York, this 17th day of October, A. D. 1921.

FRANK DEL-EON.

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