US1471917A - Shoe and method of making shoes - Google Patents

Description

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Aug. 18. 1921 v 5 Sheet s- Sheet 1 g IN awuamtoz I 2 m @5 a abtOM Ue'ld Ga. 23, 1923. MHLQW c. REGGIO SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Au 18 1921 is Sheets-Sheet 2 avwambo'c Get. 23, wz'a;

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' SHOE AND METHOD. OF MAKING SHOES Filed Aug. 18. 1921 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 H leather having the shape of 'aisole;

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warren stares PATENT eerie-s.

CHRISTY BEGGIO, OF RICHMOND HILL, NEW' YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO HENRY C. STOCKMAN, OF ENGLEVJOOD, NEW JERSEY.

SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Application filed August 18, 1921. Seria1 1\T0. 493,315.

T 0 will who 172.626 may concern:

Be it known that I, CHRIsTY Rneeio, a

-invented acertain new and useful Improvement in Shoes and Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification.

This invention relates to improvements in shoes, and methods of making shoes, the soles of whichare sewed immediately to the uppers and which comprise shark-stiffening devices consisting usually of thin strips of steel attached to the inner faces of the soles.

The main object of :the invention is the production of shoes having the shank stiffening devices within the soles instead of on their inner faces, and so .madeas to render it feasible to practice the invention in manufacturing shoes of-high grades.

The invention consists of a shoe and a method of making shoes, the shoe having the novel sole which is herein described and defined in the claims, and having a shankstiffening device enveloped by parts of the sole, and having in the stitching which connects the sole with the upper two forms of stitching, and the method of making shoes being that which is particularly set method and comprisingthe above-mentioned novel sole, enveloped shank-stiffening device and two forms of stitching which connect the sole withthe upper;

Fig. 2 is a face view of a piece of sole Fig. 3, an enlarged top face View .of the s me piec i i heih l o wh a ch nn has been cut;

Fig. [1, a longitudinal section ofthisgpiece,

split from the rear end to the ball;

Fig.5, albo-ttomface view of a fragment thereof-which formsits shank portion;

Fig 6, an edge View of the rear portion including the shank and a small fragment of the ball;

Fig. 7, an edge view of the same rear .portion, the breast for the heel'having been .cut; Fig. 8 ,afragmental view of the sole and upper lasted and partly sewed together wrong side out; I Fig. 9, a fragment-a1 view of the sole and upper partly lasted right side out, this view showing also the shanlcstiffening device;

Fig. 10, a view of the parts shown in Fig. 9, at a laterstage of the work;

Fig. 11, a cross-section on plane 11-11, Fig. 10, of thelast and :portions of the'partly made shoe;

Fig. 12, a fragmental:longitudinal'section on the plane 12J12, Fig. 9, of the last and :partly made shoe;

"Fig. 13, a fragmental cross-section on plane 13 13, Fig. 8, of the last, sole and upper; and

Fig. 14, a bottom view of a nearly finished shoe.

This invention may be practiced in the manufacture of shoes for persons of both sexes and all ages. Although a shoe such as women commonly wear is shown, it-will be evident to a shoemaker or shoe manufacturer that mens childrens and infants shoes can also be made by following the method herein described. It will also be evident to him that rnens or womens or childrens or infants shoes of many different forms and styles can be so made.

Some of the known shoes which comprise soles sewed immediately to .the uppers and have shank-stiffening devices are what are called turnshoes, and others are what are called lMcKayshoes, the upper and sole of 'a .turnshoebeing :lasted and sewed together wrong side out and then turnedright side tout, and the gupper and sole of a McKay shoe Ibeing l aste'd and sewed together right side put, the sewing -bein-g done wlith a h icKay sewing machine after the last has been removed. .A 'turnshoe is generally believed to be, better: than "McKay sh oe when 'hoth are made of stock of jthe -same quality, for the sole of the turnshoe s not ferent order.

breasted.

tected than McKay stitching can be.

Theshank stiffening devices of such shoes sometimes work loose,,or wear away their fastenings, at the front ends of the strips of stiffening material, and then they render the shoes uncomfortable by pressing and rubbing against the feet. I

These well known facts concerning shoes of the two classes above indicated have been utilized in producing this invention, as will be made clear by the following description.

The upper 15 (Fig. 1) of this shoe is like that of a common turnshoe, and the leather of the sole is shapedby trimming it as soles are usually trimmed, to fitf it to the last. The shaped'sole 16 (Fig. 2) is then channeled in the inner face 17 of its front portion, split from its rear'end to the ball, out through its outer face to provide cover for stitching at the sides of the shank, and

formed either in the preferred order in which they are here mentioned or in a dif- The channel 18 (Figs. 3 and 4). in the front portionand inner faceof the sole is'like the channel in the sole of a common turnshoe, except that the latter extends throughout the length of the sole whereas channel; 18, which extends along 2 the sides and front of the ball 19, does not extend backward from the ball.

The rear portion of the soleis split midway, or thereabouts, between its faces so that it is divided into the two sections 20 and 21, the outer surfaces of which are respectively portions of the top or inner surface 17 and of the bottom 22 of the sole. When the outer face or bottom of the sole is cut to provide cover for the stitching, as aforesaid, the covers 23 and 24 are formed. They are at the sides of the shank only and are like those parts of the sole of a McKay-sewed shoe which cover the stitching at the bottom of the sole. The sole is breasted, i. e., cut so that a thin facing 25 is provided for the front of the heel, in a well known way.

The method which forms part of this invention is particularly illustrated in Figs. 8 et seq. to 14 inclusive. of it the above-described sole, channeled, split externally grooved, and breasted, is utilizedtogether with an ordinary upper.

The sole and upper are first lasted, the inner face 17 of the sole and the lining 26 of the upper being outward, and then the ball 19 and front portions of the upper are sewed together, the stitching 27 being partly withinthe channel 18 and passing through that portion of the sole which is between its face. This .part ofthe method is illustrated Figs. 8and13 and is the same as that These operations may be per-- In the practiceof that first used i(see Fig. 9), and between this last 30 and section 20 of the sole is placed a thin nail-clinching'plate 31 (Figs. 11 and 12) of steel. The section 21 of the sole is not shown in Fig. 9 or Fig. 10. It

is kept out of the way 'when work about to be described is being done, by turning it over against the ball of the sole and temporarily fastening it there.

On the bo-ttom of the section 20, where the heel is to be aflixedto the sole, is laid a piece 32 of leather and this is there tacked to that section.

The shank-stiffening device 33 is laid on and attached to that section of the sole. This device is ashort strip of steel and may include the longitudinal rib 3a or may be flat or but slightly curved in crosssection.

It has prongs 35 at its ends and is attached to section 20 by driving the prongs. through I it and against the plate 31 and thus clinching themon the inner face of the sole (Figs. 9 and 12.) 7

l/V hen this has been done parts of the material comprising the "rear portion of the upper and the counter are drawn over the section 20 and tacked to it, as indicated by Fig. 10, and afterwards the outer section 21 of the sole is turned back and laid on the shank-stiffening device and on the over turned parts of the upper.

Next, the last 30 and plate 31 are removed, and then the sole and upper are sewed together at the sides of the shank, where the stitching passes from the inner face of section 20 through that section and thence through the overlapping -material of the upper and thence through those portions of the outer section 21 of the sole on the under sides of which are the covers 23 and 24. This stitching may be done with a McKay sewing machine, or by hand. It is expected that it will be done with such a machine, by

manufacturers ofshoes who may'practice ,makingshoes usually do after the sole and upper of a shoe have been sewed together.

It will be perceived that a shoe havingthe characteristics of that which "is herein described and claimed is a peculiar turnshoe, the portion in front of the shank being the same as the corresponding portion of a common turnshoe, while the shank is similar in some particulars to and different in others from that of a McKay shoe.

Although the sewing described consists of two forms long known in the art, yet a com mon turnshoe, does not have a sole divided into sections as is the above-described sole, and does not have a shank-stiffening device enveloped by parts of the sole and held in place both by fastenings which penetrate the sole and by the stitching at the sides of the shank. Since the shank of a shoe does not get as much hard wear as does the ball, the stitching at the shank of this shoe is likely to last until the shoe is worn out or in need of a new sole, so that the sole of the shoe and the stitching which unites it to the upper are in eifect as durable, it is believed, as are the correspondingparts of a common turnshoe.

Having described my invention, I claim:

1. A shoe comprising the herein defined sole, and a shank-stiffening device, the sole being a single piece of stock and being split behind the ball into two sections, these being an outer section and an inner section, and the ball having in it a channel such as is commonly made in the sole of a turn-shoe, the stiffening-device being between said sections and attached to the inner section, the front portion of the upper being sewed to the solid ball of the sole, the stitches passing from the channel through the stock which is between it and the edge of the sole and thence through the upper from the exterior the upper extending between and beingv sewed to both of said sections at the sides of the shank.

2. The herein defined method of making a shoe comprising an ordinary upper, a shanlcstiffening device, and a sole consisting of a single piece of stock split behind the ball into two sections, these being an outer section and an inner section, and the ball havin in it a channel such as is commonly made in the sole of a turn-shoe, the method consisting in first lasting the sole and upper inside out, then sewing the front portions of the upper and ball of the sole together as the sole and upper of a turnshoe are commonly sewed together, then removing the last, then turning the upper and sole, then putting them right side-out on a last after the counter has been inserted in the upper, then .drawing portions of the upper and counter over the edges of the inner section of the sole and nailing those portions to that section and laying the shank-stiffening device on and fastening it to that section, then placing the outer section of the sole over the inner section, shank-stiffening device and nailed portions of the upper and counter and removing the last, then sewing together said sections and those portions of the upper which extend between them, from the ball to the heel-seat, and then finishing the shoe as a shoe is commonly finished after the upper and sole have been sewed together.

CHRISTY REGGIO.

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