US1456695A - Shoe - Google Patents

Description

Many 29, 11923. 11,456,695 J. F. JONAS SHOE Filed Sept. :3, 1920 ZSheets-Sheet 1 61 Moi/Au o May 29, 1923 J. F. JONAS SHOE Filed Sept. 1920 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Wits woo Patented May 29, 11923.

omsrras JACOB F. J'ONA S, OF BELLEVUE, KENTUCKY.

snort Application filed September 3, 1920. Serial No. 407,937.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JACOB F. JONAS, a citizen of the United States, and residing at Bellevue, in the county of Campbell and State of Kentucky, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Shoes, of which the following specification is a full disclosure.

This invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes for providing an instep brace and arched form of support at the shank portion of the shoe, and primarily .in providing an insole having an instep extension which in the process of above manufacture is arched at the shank portion of the shoe, or can be built up preliminarily to its application in the manufacture of the shoe, and thereby provide an article of manufacture or commerce.

The invention is herein particularly exemplified as embodied ina shoe of the welt type although its incorporation in shoes of other types is manifest. It relates to the production of a standard or commercial shoe possessing orthopedic qualities, and which will more accurately conform tothe anatomical structure of the foot principally at'the shank portion thereof and to a shoe in which the orthopedic features are permanently incorporated in the shoe, without interfering with the flexibility of the shoe, or the stand ard processes of shoe manufacture nor materially increasing the cost, and in which the prevailing shoe style and design can be maintained so that its marketing attractiveness is predeominating and inherently in its corrective and preventive functions, offeriplg a close fitting, flexible and comfortable s cc.

An object of the invention is to provide a shoe with an insole stiffened and arched at the shank portion of the shoe and having an instep extension conforming to the shape of the instep portion of the foot as an instep brace free and non-attached to the upper of the shoe, to coincide with the outline of the instep of a foot.

- Another object of the invention is to provide a shoe with an insole asa permanent part of the shoe and having an instep ex tension, and the heel portion of the insole canted to one side in the process of lasting for arching the shank portion of the insole.

Another object of the invention is to provide an insole, as an article of manufacture or commerce, having an instep extension and an arched shank portion having instep bracing and arch supporting characteristics, and conforming to the foot of the wearer at such portions, when the insole is incorporated within a shoe.

Another objectof the invention is to provide an insole of laminated form at the shank to reinforce or stiffen the insole at the shank portion and to provide one of the laminations with inseam lips and the second with an instep extension free from stitching connecting the insole to the upper.

Another object of the invention is to provide an insole with a metal arch support formed as an integral part of its structure, the shank leather portions of the insole sections conforming to the configuration of the steel arch supporting plate.

Another object is to provide an article of manufacture as a unitary arch support and insole, wherein a reinforcing arch support is rigidly held betweeen layers of the insole material to protect the foot from contact with the said arch support, and to fasten the said ,support so that itwill be permanently held in its proper position, to prevent friction with or deformation of the upper.

Other objects and certain advantages will be disclosed in the description and reference is made to the drawings, forming a part of .this specification, in which:

Fig. 1 is a bottom plan View of one layer of the insole, showing the inseam lip formed thereon, and showing in dot-and-dash lines the position of the auxiliary heel and shank piece.

Fig. 2 is an edge viewof Fig. I.

Fig. 3 is a bottom plan of the auxiliary heel and shank piece with the inseam lip formed thereon.

Fig. 4 is an edge view of Fig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a bottom plan View of the insole with the layers shown in F igs; 1 and 3 united in condition for lasting in a shoe, or receiilzing an arch supporting plate intermediate Figl fi is an edge view of Fig. 5.

Figs. 7 and 8 are respectively sections on lines 7-7 and 88 of Fig. 6, with a covering layer adhesively secured to the shank and toe portion on the inseam lip side.

Fig. 9 is a bottom plan view of the insole, showing the arch support in position and illustrating :the manner of buckling the insole for the reception and attachment of the said arch support, and represented as an article of commerce.

Fig. 10 is an edge viewof the completed insole and arch support.

Figs. 11, 12 and 13 are respectively a plan, a side elevation and an end elevation of the metal arch support, and

Fig. 14 is a sectional view on line 1414 of Fig. 10, showing the insole and arch suppfirt attached to the upper as in a completed s cc.

The insole possesses all the qualifications of a type of insole commercially known as a Gem of laminated form in which the body layer of a leather stock is marginally skived, slit and channeled from the heel breast line forwardly, the slit portion providing two opposing feather edges turned up to provide a lip marginal projection for stitching the insole to the upper. The body layer on the lip side, after the lips have beeen formed, is covered with a canvas layer, covering the upturned feather edge skivings and together forming a reinforced inseam or stitching lip; a type of insole ordinarily used in makin a Goodyear welt shoe.

eferring to the drawings, 1 indicates the body layer of my improved laminated insole, which is preferably of a leather stock, on one side (see Figs. 1 and 2) marginally slit and channeled from the heel line on one side about the fore part thereof, and terminating at the forward shank line of the toe'or sole portion of the insole, to provide a pair of oppositely disposed feather edge skivings which are turned upwardly or at an angle to the plane of the body layer and adhesively united together forming an upstanding lip projection or beading 2; At approximately the point where the lip terminates at the forward shank line at one side of the body layer, the layer has an instep extension 3 of curved outline and reaching rearwardly to the heel breast line, which extension is adaptedto be curved or bent inwardly on the face side of the insole or layer so as to lie against the instep portion of the upper of the shoeafter the insole has been lasted and in the completed shoe. The instep extension is skived to taper the same from its junction line with the shank portion of the body layer outwardly to provide a thin or feather edge at its outward extremity.

A second layer 5 as a shank and heel section is secured upon the body layer 1, preferably at the heel end, by an adhesive leaving the shank portion of said layer free. This second layer (see Figs. 3 and l) is approximately of the contour of the heel and shank port on of the outer layer, excepting at the outside shoe line of the shank portion from the heel breast line to the forward shank terminal line along which it is cut. away at 6 or reduced to enable its edge to lie inwardly adjacent the upturned lip of body layer (see Fig. 5). The second layer is.

skived at the cut shank edge and the edgeupturned to provide "lip projection 7 from f the heel breast line forwardly, while the oppositeiorinside edge, marginally is skived and channeled from the heel breast line forare united one upon the other, a lip projection or heading extends from the heel breast line at one side of the insole, about the fore. part thereof and terminating at the heel,

breast line at the opposite side of the sole, for stitching and anchoring the upper to the insole at the opposite shank sides, leaving the instep extension free.

The body layer at the inside longitudinal shank line being unsecuredto the upper,'a pocket is formed between the layers, open from the instep extension end for the insertion of a metallic or other suitable reinforcing shank and instep plate. The forward or transverse edge 9 of the second layer is skived or tapered to provide for a flush finish with the plane of the body layer at the overlying junction of the two layers, thereby avoiding any objectionable ridge or protuberance on the face side of the insole in a finished shoe which would cause discomfort to the wearer.

Theinside seam lip or projection 8 formed on the second layer is extended slightly beyond the forward edge of the layer as shown at 11, (Fig. 2) which extension is inserted between the contiguous raised skivings of the body layer, whereby the two layers are securely united at such point with the inseam stitching securing the upper and welt to the insole.

A canvas layer 12 is applied over' the layers 1 and 5, from the heel breast line forwardly covering the lip projection of the layer, the projection qualifying as a filler and producing a substantial marginal beading or inseam lip, the composite insole then formed possessing all the characteristics of the commercially known Gem insole, and adapting the insole to be lasted and stitched to the upper under the prevailing commercial methods. It comprises a greater ply thickness at the shank portion, offering increased rigidity or stiffness at such portion and sufficient stability to sustain and support the arch of the foot. For some wearers, however, additional reinforcement may be required which may be obtained as hereinafter described. The sole or fore part of the insole being of a normal. layer thickness. meets the requirements for flexibility and is obtainable under such process of manufacture for the grade of stock employed.

The instep extension, being free and nonsecured at the inner inseam line of the shank,

foot, which a standard contour of the shank at the instep portion of the foot for close fitting.

It is desirable to 'makethe shoe upon a last which has its shank portion somewhat deeper thanthe commercial last, particularly at the inside'shank and instep portion corresponding more closely to the contour of the normal foot. This, in accordance with the present invention, permits the shank portion of the insole to be curved or archedlongitudinally in the process of lasting the insole,

and under a preferred method now practiced I and known to the art consisting of tacking the fore part of the insole to the last and then moving the heel part of the insole laterally toward the inner edge to distort it and form an arch at the, shank, then tacking the heel part of the insole to the last while thus distorted, and stitching the upper to the insole in any known manner. The heel portion is canted or moved laterally to a degree which will arch it to conform to the depth of arch cut in the bottom of the last.

The method of'arching the shank portion of the insole during the process of lasting can be eliminated from another aspect of the present invention, rendering the insole completely shaped and arched at its shank to'its shoe finish form, distinct from any.

process of lasting. In this capacity the insole may be treated as an article of manufacture or commerce independently of its organization in a shoe, without sacrificing any of the features and capacities that have been found desirable when utilized as heretofore described, and. offering additional salientfeatures and advantages as;' increasing the manufacturing capacity, lowering its cost and manipulative steps in process of lasting the insole in a shoe, and producing a higher quality product, particularly as to its arch and instep supporting shape curving lines and permanency thereto when incorporated in a shoe. The arch instead'of following a standard form contour may be variously shaped for different shoes, or to meet particular custom demands, so that ortho edic qualifications are more superlative ant distinctive for each shoe and particular curvature for the arch of lasts would not permit.

Reference being had to Figs. 9 to 14 inclusiveof the drawings it will be observed that the layers of the insole conform substantially to an insole as heretofore described with reference to Figs. 1 to 8 inclusive, consisting of a body layer, a second layer as a heel and shank la er, and the covering layers, inseam lip an instep extension from the body layers, producing the flexible or stiffened shank insole With instep extensions so that the previous description of these parts as to detail of construction and assembling will again apply without repetition.

-ings are provided in the arch support for For the insole as a product or article of manufacture, a thin metallic plate 14 is inserted in the pocket formed between the shank portions of the body layer 1 and the second layer 5. This plate is of suitable blank shape and pressed to form a longitudinal shank portion 15 provided longitudinally .with oppositely disposed apertures 16 therethrough, a tail or head extension l7'adapted to extend over a portion of the heel end of the insole, giving the plate a heel anchorage in the finished shoe and adding stability to plate as an arch support. It is also provided with a curved instep extension 18, curved upwardly, underlying the instep extension of the body layer of the insole and preferably slightly reduced dimension, adapting the body layer extension to marginally overlap the same. The plate is secured by eyelet fasteners or rivets 20 passing through the layers of the insole and perforations or apertures in the plate. The apertures 16 are relatively positioned for properly locating the plate within the insole pocket between the layers, and the parts are secured together so that the shank portions of the layers will conform to the hape of the plate to lean snugly against the same so as not to produce any buckling or raised obstruction injurious or discomforting to the foot. In attaching the layers of the insole to the metallic shank plate it is desirable to secure the plate together first at the fore part of the shank plate and then cant or move the heel end of the layers laterally to ward the inner edge to distort it and from the arch corresponding to the degree of arch of the shank plate 14. This is clearly illustrated in Fig. 9 in which the dot-.and-dash lines show the normal position of the heel end of the layer after the platehas been inserted and secured at its forward end, and

the full lines showing the layers canted laterally for arching the shank portions thereof. The plate, having greater stability than the material of the layer, holds the layers to the shape of the plate after they are secured thereto, so that the insole as a composite product is inv a condition ready to "be lasted in a shoe and retain its shape during the lasting, stitching and finishing. operation in completing the shoe manufacture. The double curve in relative transverse lines for the arch and instep formations increase the rigidity of the plate with one portion thereof trussing another. Additional open the reception of other fastening means (not shown) and a small fastener is inserted at 20 to assist in holding the cemented heel ortions of the insole layers together. The finished insole is lasted in a general manner and as shown in Fig. 14, the upper2l, and welt 22 are stitched to the seam lip of the composite insole bystitches 23 and the outer sole 24 stitched to the Welt in the usual manner. v v

The instep extensions of the insole and shank plate lie upon the inside of the upper adjacent the lining thereof with the plate intermediate of the instep extension of' heel breast line at one side of the layers about the fore part thereof and terminating at the forward shank line and instep extension at the opposite side of the layer, and a second layer of; areduced length to said main layer, having a lipformed on oneside from the heel breast line to the shank line terminal of the lip of saidv first layer as a continuation thereof, the two layers being non-secured at said instep extension, and a lining and upper outside of said, instep extension securedto the lips of said layers.

2. A shoe comprising a composite insole having a main layer provided with an instep extension at the shank inner side, a second layer of heel and shank length providing a greater ply thickness at the shank portion of the insole, said layers together formed on one face with a lip projection extending from the heel breast line forwardly and marginally around the insole, and an upper secured to said insole with the instep extension lying freely on the inside surface of the uper. P 3. A shoe comprising a composite insole having a main layer provided with an instep extension at the. shank inner side, a second layer of heel and shank length, providing thickness at the shank portion of sion lying freely on the inside surface of the upper.

4. A composite insole having a greater ply thickness at the shank portion, thereof, an

arched shank plate inserted between the layers thereof, the heel and shank portions of the insole being offset laterally to form an arched elevation in the shank and secured in its offset position to said shank plate.

5. An insole having a greater thickness of material at the shank portion thereof, an instep extension from the inner side of the shank portion, and an arch plate for the shank portion of said insole, the heel and shank portions of the insole being offset laterally to form an arched elevation at the shank and secured in its offset position to the plate.

6. An insole having a greater thickness of material at the shank portion thereof, an instep extension from the inner side of the shank portion, and an arch plate for the shank portion of said insole, having an instep extension, the heel and shank portions of the insole" being offset laterally to form an arched elevation .at the shank and secured in its offset position to the plate.

In witness whereof, I hereunto subscribe my name, as attested by the two subscribing witnesses,

,- JACOB F. JONAS.

Witnesses:

L. A. Econ, J. C. Jumps.

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