US1445364A - Chables m - Google Patents

Description

Feb. 13, 1923., 1,445,364.

I c. M. STEIYNMETZ. SHIRT HAVING REVERSIBLE SO-FT CUFFS.

FILED AUG. 14. 1920. 2 SHEETS-SHEET 1-- 32?! 4 rug Quorum;

Feb. 13, 1923. I

C. M. STEINMETZ.

SHIRT HAVING REVERSIBLE son CUFFS.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

FILED AUG. 14. 1920.

Patented Feb. 13, 1923* UNITED stares PATENT OFFICE;

CHARLES STEINJEIETE, "01 'W'ASHINCfEfON, .UISTEICJ. 03f COLUMBIA.

SHIRT HAVING.- REVEIMILBLE S0131 GUlfFS.

Application filed au ust 14-, 1920.1 gel-s1 No. 403,453.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, CHARLES M. STEIN- Mn'rz, a citizen ofthe United Pi'tates,.resi lin g; at l'Vashington, in the District of Coluinhia have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shit s Having lfeversi hle Flo-ft Cuffs of which the following is a specilication reference being: had to the ac c oiupanying drawings.

This invention relates to shirts and shirtwaists having attached soft cuffs or French cuffs which are reversible and particularly to the detailed construction of the folding soft cuff and to the formation of the placket or vent of the shirt sleeve to which the cuff is attached.

(hie of the objects of my invention is to provide a folding: soft cuff for shirts and shirtwaists so designed and. made s toreduce unduewear and tear at the edges of i the fold lengthwise of the cuff.

surface of the goods will show through the cuff. This is eliminated by the construction which I have designed.

Another ohjection in foldahlc soft cuffs is that when the outer end portion of the cuff is folded inwardto present a new and clean surface upon the exterior of the cuff and the hand thrust through the shirt sleeve, the inwardly turned portion of the cuff is very liable to he forced outward by the hand and the cuff very hard, therefore, to ad just, and even a i the hand is thrust through. the Sh'llt sleeve, the inwardly turned portion. of the cuff tends to work: down the wrist and the cuff loses its fresh foldechappearance and becomes rumpled.

Another. object of my invention to avoid this by providing ineans, which. when the cuff is turned inward. eugaoges the margin of the cuff with the sleeve all around the cuff so that the inwardly turned portion of the cuff will he held fiinily in place and pres vented from rumpling.

And another object of my invention connected with the last is to provide means for terior of the cuff of any such attaching ineans.

A. further object of my invention is to so form the placket or vent as to secure a perfect fit and. finish to the shirt sleeve where softcutfs orFrench cuffs are used. The reinforcing); hands of the vents of shirt sleeves today have a strip of goods continuous on the inner surface and the upper ends of these hands are so made that there List and wrinkle in the hand and sleeve, making it fit imperfectly where soft cuffs are attached to the sleeve.

And a further object of this invention is to provide a strong, durable, and non-rip- 'iinu' reinforcement along the edges of a placket or vent so constructed as to permit the sh and cuff to lie flat without any more perfectly and give a better finish to the shirt sleeve than is the case at the pres out time.

Other objects will appear in the course of the following description.

llfy invention is illustrated in the accon1- panying drawings, wherein Figure 1. is a perspective view of a shirt sleeve having my improved cuff and placket hand attached thereto;

l igure Qis a sectional view through the shirt sleeve and the cuif,.looking at the inside of the shirt sleeve and showing the cuff folded or reversed inside of the shirt sleeve;

Figure 3 is a view of a fragment of the cuff and shirt sleeve, showing the cuff open or entirely unfolded; t

F i gure a is a like view to Figure 2 looking at the inside of the sleeve, but showing he cuff turned to face outward, that reversed with relation to Figure 2;

F 'ure 5 is a fragmentary perspective section view. of a portion of a shirt sleeve looking at the inside face the cuff being untirely unfolded;

Figure (this a perspective view of a por tion) of a shirt sleeve and the cuff showing the cuff upwardly turned upon the outer face of the shirt sleeve or reversely to the manner in which the cuff is turned in Figure 2; p p

Figure 7 a tfragn'ientary elevation of a portion of a shirt sleeve and cuff with my improved reinforcing placket hand attached there e baud pa tly broken away;

the samesize as the section 12,1

between the margins of the sections 11- and 12 is a strip 15 of textile fabric preferably sections being preferably composed of two plies of materi joined at the intui'ned hems 13,,the wrist band of the shirt sleeve 10 being attached to the plies of the section 11 by stitcl' ing, The section 11 has approximatel dispose of the same character as that of which the cufi' ismade, which strip is attached to fthe sections 11 and 12 by stitching 14 This strip 15 forms in effect a hinge between the sections 12 and 11, permitting the section 12 to be folded over a on the section 11, either upon the outside 0 the section 11, as shown in Figure 4, or the inside thereof, as in Figures 1 and 2. his strip comes at the normal fold of the cuff, that is, on the line tliata cuff of this character would be ordinarily folded, and therefore, permits the ready as desired. T wear and life of the suit because the fold and the wear and tear upon the cuff come upon 111g the station '12.

folding of t e sections of the can upon each other withoutanybi'eakihg or wearing of this portion of the his strip 15 may be of, a single: 13; of fabric or a double ply,

diatom-inaction lengthens the the stri connecting, the two sections of the cuff. c'ourse, the two sections of the cuff are providedwith the usual for 1' button holes 17 whereby the usual link on buttons may be passed throu h the two sections of the cuff to hold the on inits folded ition. The detailed manner of engaging t e sections 11 and'12 with the strip 15 is in igure 2 but not in the other figures.

Attached betweenthe we "es of material forming the sctihn 12 a 1 th equal to that oi the due is iii-strip 8 whic is also preferabl formed 0&- twe of material stitched around its margin show-n in detail in Figure 3, and this state 18 on its inner .face carriesugilurality of snap fastener members, illustrate as elastic stud members and designated 19 (s'ee figure 3). These I arestitchedmyeleted, riveted, or otherwise attached to the inner ply of the two plies of material forming the strip 18 and coact with a series of snap fastener members, shown as socket members 2Q, stitched or otherwise atacted to as a! the, anneal form "a strip 18 is adapted to be folded over, as illustrated in Figurev 6, uponthe inner face of the man-gin of the Section 12, and the stud members 19 engaged with the socket members 20. The inside ol? the shirt sleeve adjacent its point of engagement with the section 11 is provided with a series of socket members 21 of exactly the same character as the socket members 20 and disposed in approximately the same position.

Now when the section 12 is folded over upon the outside of the section ll, as shown iii Fi ure 6,; the strip 18 is turned inward and the studs 19 engaged with the sockets 20, and in this case the cuff looks much the same as the ordinary folded cufi". lVhvn the Section 12, however, is to be folded inward upon the section 11, as shown in Figure 2, the stud members 19 are disengaged from the sockets 20 and engaged with the sockets 21 and, therefore, the edge of the section 12 of the cuff which is within the sleeve is held to the sleeve so that when the in the usual manner, thus presenting a neat a pearance which will remain, inasmuch as t e cu cannot become rumpled or forced down on the arm.

It is to be particularly noted that the section 11 is so attached to the sleeve 10 that there is a lever or ply of material upon the outerface oi the shirt sleeve and that there is a slight margin 22 which is left free and ,u' hich simulates the ed eof a cuff so that, when the section 12 is lded inside of the section fa l 1e factthat the section 12 has been folded inside is not observable, as this edge 22 gives the effect of the free edge of the section 12.

While I have heretofore referred to this cuff as being an attached cufl, it will be understood thatthe principle of the invention in ht be applied to unattached cuffs, that is on s not sewed to the shirt sleeve. It is also to be understood that I may use any fastenmg devices for the purpose of connecting the strip 8 to the inner face of the shirt sleeve 01'' to 'te inner face of the section 12, though preferably I use the snap fasteners, as illustrated. I

It will be seen that my cuff functions in exactly the same manner as the ordinary foldable cuff, but that it has many advantages thereover, that it will wear longer than the ordinary cuff. stand more hard usage in the laundry, and is generally superior thereto.

The shirt sleeve 10 in the drawings is tearing and at the -same time secure a perterial for the PHL'POSQ, The middle portion of the blank from which the band is made is formed to provide the nuddle flaps 24: on

opposite edges of the band and between this middle portion of the band and the ends of the band 'l'-l1er(. 1s a portion 25 formed on each edge with a flap 26, the flaps 524i and 26 liieing separated. from. each other by V-shaped notches 27. This band 23 is creased or foldedlongitudinally on the line The middle portion Z of the band is creased longitudinally by the crease m and is also creased diagonally by the diagonally extending creases y, intersecting the notches 27.

In applying this band to the shirt, the two end portions of the band are folded in parallel relation, the creases g1 permitting this folding of the band, and the band then has the form shown in Figure 11. The flaps 24f. are folded inward on the inner surfaces of the triangularmiddle portions 29 formed by folding as. above described, while the flaps are folded inwardly upon the inner faces of the longitudinally folded portions 25. '.l.hus the folded. band provides two plies of material on. each side of the medial slot of the vent, between which plies of material the marginal edges of the shirt on each side of the slit G are inserted. The reinforcement thus formed is then stitched to the shirt by means of stitching 28, these lines of stitching passing through the folds or flaps Q6 and the longitudinally folded portions 25 of the band and passing around the margins of the triangular portions 29 formed by folding the middle portion of the band as described, and across the face of the triangular portions, as clearly shown in Figure 7. Two registering button holes 30 are formed in one portion of the band and a button 31 V is attached to the other portion of the band,

or a button hole may be disposed in place of this button 31 to permit a link to be used to cause the closing of the vent, or these but ton holes 30 and the buttons 31 may be left off entirely and snap fasteners used instead.

It will be noted that the material of the sleeve on both sides of the slit C is rein forced by two plies of material having turned-in home or margins, and that the end of the slit is reinforced by practically four plies of nuiterial, two plies being on each side of the material of; the shirt, thus preventing any danger of the vent tearing. actual. use of this reinforcing band has demonstrated that it provides for a very perfect fit for the shirt sleeve without any tendency to twist or wrinkle or open up, and adds a very attractive finish to the shirt sleeve, inasmuch as both margins of the vent or slit are finished in the same mannerw I claim y i i 1. In a body garn'ient, a sleeve, a soft cull attached thereto and foldable longitudinally along its medial line, the outer margin of the cuff having attached thereto a longitudiually extending strip foldable over upon. the outer face of the cuff, said strip and the outer face of the cuff upon their confronting faces being provided witl'i. means for hold ing the strip folded upon the cnfl, the shirt sleevebeing provided upon. its inside face with. means for engaging said strip with the shirt sleeve. I

2. In an articleof apparel, a wrist sur rounding body portion having an outerand an inner surface and having a portion adapted to be folded upon the outside of said body portion and upon the inside thereof, and means on the inside of the body portion engaoeable with said foldable per- 1 ca tion to hold the margin of the foldable po tion engaged with the. inner face of the body portion.

3. In a garment, a wrist surrounding body portion having an outer and inner surface, a portion attached to said body portion and foldable over upon the outer surface there of and upon the inner surface thereof, a strip attached to the free margin of the foldable portion and :ioldable inward there over, the margins of the foldal ile portion of the strip upon their confronting faces heing provided with coaeting fastening de vices, the inner surface of the body portion being provided with fastening devices with which said fastening devices on the strip coact when the foldable portion is turned inward on the body portion to thereby hold the margin of the foldable portion in close engagement with the inner face of the body portion when the foldable portion turned. inward.

4. In a garment, a shirt tudinally foldable cuff attached thereto, a strip attached to the free margin of the cuff and foldable over upon the outside face of: the cuff, the inner face of said strip and the outer face of the cud being provided with coacting fastening devices, the inner face of the shirt sleeve adfacent its Joint of engagement with the cuff being provided with fastening devices coast with the fastening devices on the strip when the cuff is folded inward to thereby hold the ii. is margin of the cuff in engagement with the shirt sleeve.

55, ln'a garment, a shirt sleeve, a loupjb tudinally foldablo cuff attached thereto, a

strip attached to the free margin of the cull and foldable over upon the outside face of I the cuff, the inner face of said strip and the outer face of the cuff being provided with coacting snap fastener members comprising resilient studs and coacting sockets, the inner face of the shirt sleeve adjacent sleeve, a longiits point of engagement with the cuif being provided with snap fastener members adapt ed to coact with the snap fastener members on the strip when the cuff is folded inward to thereby hold the free margin of the cuff in engagement with the shirt sleeve.

6. In an article of apparel having a vent slit,a reinforcing band therefor comprising a strip of material longitudinally and transversely folded to provide two plies of materialforming each margin of the slit, the transverse fold of the material providing four pliesoi? material at the ends of the slit, two of which plies extend across and intersect the closed end of the slit.

7. An article of apparel having a vent slit, a reinforcing band. therefor comprising a single strip of material folded transversely at its middle to provide two arallel portions, each of these longitudinal y extending, parallel portions being medially to provide two parallel portions each formed of two plies of material and opposed triangular end portions, the material at the op posite margins of the slit being embraced between each two plies and sewed thereto and the triangular portions being sewed to the material at the end of the slit.

9. In an article of a parel having a vent slit, a reinforcing band therefor comprising a strip of material having at its middle two diagonal creases, the strip of material being longitudinally creased on a medial line intersecting the intersection of said diagonal creases, said strip being folded on the said medial crease and upon its diagonal creases 1o provide two parallel portions each formed of two plies of material and opposed triangular end portions, the material at the opposite margins of the slit being embraced between each two plies and sewed thereto and the triangular portions being sewed to the material at the end of the slit, each of said longitudinally extending plies being formed with an inwardly turned hem and each of the triangular plies being formed with an inwardly turnedhem, the stitching connecting the reinforcement to the article of apparel passing through said inwardly turned hems.

In testimony whereof I hereunto afiix my signature.

CHARLES M. STEINMETZ.

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