US1440343A - Sewing and trimming machine - Google Patents

Description

Das; Z 1922, 1,449,343

` A. H.-nEvoE.

SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE F1 LED Aust 4. 1916.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2 Eea. 269 w22.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3 A. H, DEVOE. SEWING AND TRIMMING MACHINE.

FILEn Aus 4 |916 www@ m- 26, w22, LMQMS A. H. DEVOE. SEWING AND TRIMMxNG MAcHlNE.

FrLED Aus. 4. 1916, 5 SHEETS-SHEET 4 MMM/WWW@ A TTOR/VEY Dm. 26. w22. 1.44.@,343

A. H. DEVOE. SEWING AND TRlMMlNG MAcHlNE.

FILED Aus. 4, 1916. 5 SHEETS-SHEET 5 Patented meer, 26, i922.,

ALBERT H. DE WCE,` OF WESTEIELD, NEW' JERSEY, ASSEGTLTOR, TO'THE 'SING-ER MANU- FACTURXNG CDMPANY, A. CORYOB-AJGN 0F NEW' JERSEY.

SEWING AND TRIMMNG NIACHINE.

Application filed August 4, 1916. Serial No, 113,071.

To a-ZZ wlw/m, t nary cof/106ML.'

Be it known that l, ineens lvl. Dn Von, a citizen o'f the United States, residing at lVesttield, in the county of Union and State of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful improvements in Sewing and Trimming Machines, of which the followiiig is a specification, reference being had there in to the accompanyingl drawings.

This invention relates more particularly to improvements in that class of sewing' niachines comprising; stitch-forming' and fabric-- cutting;` or trimming devices operating' in conjunction with a travelling work-holder, and designed particularly for uniting thc overlapped endS of long'lengjths of fabric in idiness for dye/mg, singeing' and bleaching operations thereon.

The in'vention has for its object to provide improved means for controlling' the operation. of the stitchforming and cutting' nicclmnisms, for supportingI the work in stretched ycondition and feeding the same to id mechanisms, to provide simple and cfp ive cutting' mechanism and means for guiding' the worl': thereto for cutting rcspec tively the upper and under plies of the superposed fabrics., and for providing` mechanism which is otherwise convenient to nianipulate and elfective in operation.

lcording' to the present invention in its iiireierred enibodin'ient, the stitch-forming mechanism compris-es 'hree laterally spaced needles and cooperating loop-takers adaj'iteil for production .of three lines of stitching across the overlapped ends of the strips of fabric to be united. rlhe marginally superposed plies of fabric are secured adjacent the side edges upon impaling' pins projecting from the opposite faces of abric-supporting and separatinny plates of a travelling' worlc holder connected by means of a belt running` over a clutch-driven `s'rooved pulley connection with the source of power. Means are. provided. including a common controlling` or starting lever for coupling` and uncouplinn' the stitch-forming; mechanism with its actaatinn' means and operatino' he clutch to connect and disconnect said arooved pulley and Vits driving' means.y respectively. Through suitable connect-ions. the same controlling' lever adapted Ato operate the presserfoot plan of 'the same.,

lifting means and a tension-releasing,` device.

The cutting 'mechanism preferably comprises a pair of cutting elements forsever- 'ing vthe upper ply of fabric 'including a reciprocatory upper knife-blade cooperating with fixed leclgei'iblacle sustained 'by the machine bracket-arm, kand a pair'of cutting elements for cutting 'the lower ply of fabric including a 'fixed 'ledger-blade sustained by the throat-plate and a lreciprocatorycuttingf element carried by a spring-lifted arm over- 'hanging `the throauplate and actuated vby 'a with ythe licor to facilitate movement of the machine and 'aised from the vfloor for deposit of the standards vthereon by means of a suitable toggle device.

' The invention will be understood by ref-A erence to the accompanying drawings, in which Fin'. 1 is a rear side elevation of a machine embodying' the present invention, Fig. 2 a Vfront end view and Fig. 3 a

Fig. 4 is an enlarged sidel elevation ofthe forward part of the machine. `partly'in section, and Fig. 5 is a sectional end view showing certain parts represented in Fig. Q. Fig. 6 kis a perspective view of va part of the work-holder actuating mechanism. Figs. i and 8 represent in end view and Vbottom plan, respectively,

the starting' or controlling lever and the tripping' means therefor. Fig. 9 is a front cnil view of a portion of the bracket-arm head showing' a part of the cutter-actuating` means. Fig. il) is an elevation. partly `in scction, showing, upon a llarger scale than Figi'. Ll, the spaced pairs of cooperating' fabriccutting; elements, and Fig. il is a detail sectional view of a portion of the cutting' dcvice for 'the lower ply of fabric. l2 is a sectional plan shovz'ing the cooperating ele nient-s of the upper-ply trimmer and accessories; and Fig. i3 is an enlarged sectional thereon a cone-pulley` comprising the belt-- i chinebase and carrying the balance-wheel Afront elevation representing some of the same parts. F ig. 14 is a perspective view of the movable element of the upper-ply trimmer. Figs. land 16 are perspective views representing the upper and lower faces, respectively, of the throat-plate. Fig. 17 is a perspective view of the movable member of the lower-ply trimmer and a portion of its y,

carrier. Fig. 18 is a side elevation, partly in section, of the starting or controlling lever.

1l embraced by the driving belt 12 from the' source of'power. As disclosed more fully in my application Serial No. filed March 21,1916, the shaftlO has loosely `mounted wheel 13 and the connected grooved lbrakewheel 14, and Vhas fixed thereonthe clutch-y disk 15 adapted to be thrust into a lateral clutch-cavity formed'in the brake-wheel by means yof the endwise` movable plunger-pin 16 journaled in the hanger 9. Suitably fulcrumed upon the hanger is the sprin ,-re-

tracted operating lever 17 having a lateral arm 18 carrying the inclined` cam-plate 19 adapted for .engagement with the-end of the plunger-pin 16 for establishing driving connection between the shaft 10 and the belt-wheel 13. y ,p

The sewing machine frame is formed with the base 20 vsecured upon the platform 8 and having rising therefrom the usual hollow standard 21 from which extends thetubularv overhanging` nzember 22 terminating in the head 23. Journaled withinl the head is the reciprocating needle-bar 24 provided with the lneedle-clamp 25 carrying the laterally spaced needles 26 cooperating with the loopers 27 operating beneath the throat-plate 28.

,Upon the needlc-baris secured a collar 29 connected-by means of the link 30 with a crank-arm 31 fixed upon the forward end of the needle-actuating rock-shaft 32 which is operatively connected bysuitable means with the main-shaft 33 journaled in the ma- 34 which is formed with the belt-pulley 35 connectedbymeans of the encircling belt 36 with the belt-wheel 13. The looper mechanism is or may be constructed and operated in accordance with my Patent No. 1,085,301, of `February 3,1914.

As represented in the drawings, the table y The regular drop-feed mechanism is preferably constructed in accordance with my Patent No. 1,048,446, of July 27, 1915,

and is constructed with a feed-dog 37' work 4for advancing it to s ace the stitches is the presser-foot 40 having its shank se-` cured to the presser-bar 41 journaledin the bracket'-arm` headv` 23 and pressed downwardly bymeans of the spring 42. 'As reprey sented more fully in my pending application Serial No. 48,594, filed `September 2, 1915, the presser-bar has` fixed thereonthe thrustblock 43 adapted for engagement bythe member 44 of a sliding collar carrying the roller-stud 45 and having a suitable connection with the lifting rock-leverv 46 `fulcrumed at 47 upon the overhanging frame member 22. The linger-lever 48 having the fixed fulcrum 49 embraces within its cam recess 50 the roller-studA 45 and serves, in addition to its function as a lifting member, to move idly` in the lifting movement-of the rock-lever 46 without effect upon the presserfoot or to lock` the samein raised position under its momentum in passing from one to` the opposite side of its fulcrum 49.

The tension ldevice and its releasing means are or may be constructed vin accordance with my Patent No. 1,046,405, of July 13, 1915. It is shown comprising the supporting plate 51 sustained by the reciprocating plunger-pin 52 and carrying the 'tensiondisks 53 normally pressed together by means of the spr-ings 54 interposed between Aeach outer tension disk and the thrust-nut' upon the respective tension-.stud` 56. rl`ension release pins 57 extending axially through the studs 56 and connected with the respective springs 54are adapted to engage the fixed thrust-plate 58 when the plungerpin 52 is retracted, thereby relieving` dthe pressure of the springs 54 upon the respective tension-disks. rThe rearward end of the p plunger-pin 52 is laterally notched to receive one arm 59 of an elbow-lever fulcrumedv upon the frameand having a. lateral arm 60 adapted for engagement .by the hooked upper end of a pull-rod `61 secured upon the rearward end of the rock-lever 46, whereby the rocking of the lever 46 to lift the presservfoot causes the release of the tensions.

From the. platform 8 rise thesockets v62 in 'which are adjustably secured by means of the set-screws 63 the posts 64 carrying` thetransverse bearing bosses 65. Slidingly journaled withinthe bosses65are the side bars 66` of the work-holder'whichvare framed llO together j at opposite l.sides l,of 'the throatplate by:` means of ,the cross-members 67 which are formed with .aperture-dbosses 68 secured in yposition ,means of setscrews 69.

The cross-members 67 are formed' with upstanding lugs 70 upon which are secured by screws 71 the ends of the fabric-supporting and separating plates 72 which are forked at their adjacent ends to afford :the spaced fabriceengaging members 73, those at `the rearward edge of such plates-being overhun'gby the tongues 74 spaced above the corresponding members The members 73 nearest' thefront end of the machine lare provided upon their lower and upper faces with the -backwardly inclined impaling pins 75 and 76, and thecorresponding members at the opposite edges ofthe supporting p lates "and l,their overhanging -tongues are provided upon their ilower and upper faces, respectively, with similar imp aling pins 77 and'78. l

1n lorder to apply .the ends of fabric yto be united, the one is" drawn "laterally Vbeneath the presser-foot andimpaled .upon the lower pins 7 5 -and 77 at the ends ofthe section to be stitched, and the other is drawn laterally in the .opposite 4direction beneath the presser-foot and jimpaled atl corresponding points Aupon the'upper .pins 76 and l'78, the fabricsthus 'beingmai-nt'ained taut in overlapping v.relation rwithin the range of action of the' stitchforming'mechanis1n,l but having their adjacent faces separat-ed by the supporting plates 72 and the overlying toniques .74-

The work-holder as ,thus described is adapted `to Abe adjusted -vertically ,to ybring `the fabrics .as close as .possible to the 'level of the face of the throat-platelby the means described, the throat-,plate having in its lface the transverse clearance grooves128" to ,receive the points of the depending 'impaling pins. The clothplate "79'is similarly provided withy transverse .clearance grooves 79 for alike purpose. p i

The reduced forward' vend portion of the main -shaft 33 has secured thereon .the worm 80 meshing with 4the worm- -wjheel 81 whose .tubular hub "82 is journaled upon the vertically :disposed tubular stud 83 sustained rat the forward side of the work-holder by a Vsuitable =exten'- s'ion 84 of the machine base 20. The ,wormwheel 81 is formed in its upper face with a conical clutch-cavity and :constitutes a driving elutchfmember which'is adapted for engagement by the depending clutch-disk 85 fitted within the same' and depending from the pulley-Wheel 86 formed with the peripheral belt-groove 87 and sleeved upon the worm-wheel hub 82. The clutch-member 8 5 is secured to the pulley 86 by means of screws 88 and Vis formed in its lower face with an annular recess 89 in which are secured byscrews 90 thearched lifting springs 91 adapted to 'rest upon the bottom of the clutch-cavity of the worm-wheel and to normally maintain the clutch-ring `lifted rout of clutchingfrelation therewith.

1 The `'pulley-wheel `86 is embraced by a llateral crookin the belt 92 which-passes over the guide- pulleys 93, 94 and 95 sustained by the machine frame vbeneath the cloth-plate `and intermediate the side bars 66; one end of such belt being apertured and entered by one member of a hook 96 whose other member enters an aperture in the forward cross- -member 67, while the other apertured end of the rbelt is entered by a hook upon one end ofthe tension spring 97 Vhaving its eyed opposite end engaged by a pin 98 upon -the depending lug `99- of a bar 100 carried by the' other `cross-member 67 of the workhojlder.

The pulley 86-issurmounted --by a washer `101 through which passes a thrustspin 102 fitted within the 'bore of .the stud 83 and having a vhead 103 which rests upon such washer and formed in its upper face with a cafvitycontaining an anti-friction 'ball 104. Through the action o-f the springs 91 the -ba-ll 104 is normally maintained in Acontact with -the'upper ymargin of an inclined wearplate 105 secured within a seat in the under face of a swinging `arm 106 hav-ing its hub 107 fulcrumed upon the stud 108 which is sustained-at theY `front end of the machine and beyond the stitch-forming mechanism -by means o-f the extension 8 4 of the bed 20. VV- hen the clutch ring 85 is depressed into operative engagement with Ithe worm-wheel 81 by engagement of the wear-plate 105 with the Iball 104, the pulley 86 is caused to rotate with the worm-wheel 'and to act through Athe belt 92 to draw the work-holder in workladvancing direction and relatively to the `stitch-forming mechanism.

' vrlche 4arm 106 is formed with `a depending extension 109 having an aperture in which is inserted the hooked forward end of a 4rod formed in relatively adjustable sections 110 secured together fby means Aof ythe clamp- 'Iblock 111 and connected at its yhooked opposite end with" the apertured crank-arm 11,2 of a `rocker lflrlc-rumed upon the stud-pin 113 and provided with a lateral arm 114 connected -by means of the similarly adjustable rod with ythe apertured end of the lever 17 which is maintained normally retracted for disengagement of the driving-and driven elements of the power-transmitter by lmeans ofthe spring 17. A spring 116 connected at opposite ends respectively with the fulcrum-pin 113 and the Clamp-block 111 maintains the arm 106 in normally retracted position.

rifhe arm 106 constitutes one part of a compound lever of which the other part coninmate by means 0i the spring 160 interposed between the bottom off an axial socket of the fulcrum-stud 148 andthe end oi' the screwplug 1561 entering the threaded outer end of the bearing' sleeve 149;

The hub 153 of' the lever 154 has fitted thereon a collar 162havingl an upwardly eX- tending arm 163 secured adjustably thereon by means of the screw 164 entering" an elongated aperture therein and having a lateral arm 165 to which is pivotally connected by means of the pin 166 the rocking foot 167.

The throat-plate 28 has at one side' of its feed-dog apertures 168 a' clearance aperture 169 having its bottom closed by means of a plate 170 secured to the suitably recessed under face of the throat-plate by means of serews'171 passing through slots 172 therein, whereby said plate is adapted for adjustment toward and from the line of seam. The plate 170 is shown formed upon its upper acew'itha lip 173teXtending in the direction of feed and slightly inclined to the face of the' throat-plate and laterally beveled to aforda cutting edge 17 3 at the'face of said lip farthest from the stitch-forming mechanism to serve as a ledger-blade.

Cooperating with the ledger-blade 173 is a movable cutting blade afforded by the sharpened edge 174 of a smoothing finger 17 5 carried by a downwardly offset extension of a vibratory -arm in the form of a holding plate or carrier 17 6. The blade-carrying portion of the platel 17 6 is overhung by the rocking' foot 167 which is adapted to depress the same to impart cutting movements to the blade 174.

The plate 176 is secured to a lateral flange 177 of a sleeve 178 secured upon a fulcruinpin 179 and having a depending arm 180 carrying the stop-screw 181. rThe pin 179 is journaled in spaced bearing lugs 182 of a rocker 183 which is in turn journaled upon they pivotal pin 184 mounted in the hanger 185 which is secured to the bottom of the throat-plate 28. The rocker 183 is provided with a ysocklet 186A containing a pressure spring 187 interposed between an adjustable plug 188 and the end of a cap 189 slidingly fitted' within said socket and bearing upon the bottom of the holding plate 176. rlhe spring 187 serves to normally maintain the cutting knife 17 4in upper retracted position which is determined bythe engagement of the stop-screw 181 with an adjacent partl oi the rocker 183.

Suit-ably secured within the hanger 185 and passing freely through an aperture in therocker 183 is a stud 190 havingv applied to its threaded outer portion the nut 191 between which and said rocker is interposed a spring 192 yieldingly forcingy the rocker toward the stitch line, and hence pressing thev movable cutting blade 174 against the ledger-blade 173.,

The lower ply Z of `fabric is introduced from the front end of the machine beneath the guide-finger 145 and intermediate the lupper and lower blades 173 and 174 with the margin to be removed resting upon the top of the throat-plate. The upper ply m of fabric is passed over the finger 145 and beneath the knife-blade 147 and thence int'erniediatel the pressure member 167 and the arm-plate 17 6, it being understoody that the superposed plies are bothk introduced beneath the presser-foot and overthe raised portion of the throat-plate beneath theV same. As the work is advanced by the feeding mechanism, the marginal portions of the superposed plies of fabric respectively at opposite sides of the stitch-forming mechanism are removed close to the adjacent lines of seam.

1t will be observed that both theupper and lower ply cutters are actuated from the needle-actuating rock-shaft through a common operating lever 154, and thatthey are relatively adjustable in relation tothel stitchforming mechanismby'means ot the adjust'- ment provided in the plate 170 which-sustains the lower led-ge'r-bladeA against which the cooperating cutting blade is" yieldingly pressed through the action of the spring 192;

Journaledupon the studs 193 in the lower portions or' the legs. 1 of the end standards are the rock-bars 194 provided atV opposite ends with` crank-arms 195 each carrying a journal-pin 196 upon which is mounted a roller or caster 197. The arms 195 at the front of the trame are provided'with lateral ears 198 pivotally connected by bolts 199 with the ends of the toggle-links'200-whic'h are pivoted together at' their overlapped ad'- jacent ends by means of the bolt 201:n One of suchlinks adjacent their pivotal connection is formed with aforwardly extending tongue 202 passing over the top of the other link and affording not only a Jfootpiece for convenience of the operator in straightening the toggle, but a sto-p for'limiting the straighteningl movement of the 'toggle.

The toggle-links are so proportioned that when'straightened the rollers 197 are thrust apart and downwardly around the respective tulcrum-pi'ns 193 as centers but not directly beneath the same, therebyv lifting the stand to remove the ends of the legs 1 from the floor to` facilitate movement of the machine from place to place. By raisingl the tongue 202 to bend the toggle, as represented in dotted lines in Fig. 1, the rollers- 197 are permitted to move inwardly'under the weight of the machine, thereby restoring the table to normal position with its legsl restingV uponY thev Hoor'.`

While the present improvement is shown and vdescribed' herein in its"M preferred embodme'nt, it will-be evident that' certain of stitchftorming and means acting independently of the `fabric for imparting to said Work-holder a continuousl feeding movement during a plurality-of consecutive stitch-forming cycles. ,2in a sewing machine, in combination,` stitchformingI mechanism, a travelling` Work-holder, actuatingy means actingindependently or the lvvorlrfor imparting to said vvcrl-liol-cler a continuous feeding' movement during'a plurality of consecutive stitchformi-ng cycles,and yielding. connection between coactive elementsof said actuating meansg.v V

In aseiving machine, in combination, stit ch-forming .mechanisim atravelling Work-holder, actuating means. positively connected with the Work-holder independently oi the Work and adapted to impart to the Work-holder a vcontinuons feeding movement during a plurality of consecutive stitch-forming cycles, and a. yielding' connectionbetween coactive elements oit said actuating` means.

ll. In a sewingl machine, in combination, stitch-'forming` mechanism, a` travelling Work-holder, and actuating means acting independently of the Work and including trictionally engaging' drivingr and driven elements for yieldingb7 imparting rto said lWork-holder a continuous feeding movement during aplurality of consecutive stitch- Llforniing' cycles.

- a sewing machii'le, inv combination, stitclntorming mechanism, a travelli un; ivorli holder, kand actuating means therefor includ ing a. rotary shaft,-a drivingiriction-clntch element havingl a Worm-and-ivorm-ivheel connection with said shaft, a driven 'liriction-clntch element with means 'for establishing and interrupting its operative relation with the driving;.clutch-inemhen and a connection betiveen said driven clutch-member and the Work-holder. i

l 6, ,ln a serving.;n machine, in combination, stitch-forming; vmechanism, a travelling Work-holder,and actuating means therefor comprising a drivenpulley-Wheel anda belt vencirclingthe same and connected 'at opposite ends to said Work-holder at points at yopposite sides of said pulley-Wheel.

7 In a sewing machine, in` combination, mechanism' .t a :travelling Work-holder, and actuatlng means theretor Having thnsiset "forth the nature of the comprisinga driven pnlleyv-Wlieeland a belt: encircling the same and connected at oppo site ends to-said Work-holder at points at opposite sides ol said pulley-wheel, aten- Sion-springbeing interposedin the connection between said Worleholderfand the belty to maintain the latter tant. i

8,3111 a sewing machine, in combination,

stitch-formingY mechanism, a travelling,` Work-holder, and actuatingv meanstheretor comprising a continuously driven actuator,

a pulleynivheel operatively connected therewith by a. i'riction clutch device', and a beltv encirclingv said pulley-Wheel and `attached at opposite ends to said work-holder' Iat points at opposite sides of the pulley-Wheel.

l 9. in sewing` machine, in combination, stitch-forming` lmechanism, a .'travellinlgT Work-holder parallel gnideways upon ivhirh said Work-holder moves,` and actuating means .for said Work-holder comprising` a driven pulley-Wheel arrangedl at thesame side of both ofsaid guidevayspand a belt encircling said pulley-Wheel and attachedy at opposite ends to said' Worlt-holdermid- Way of saidy gliideivays and at opposite sides otV said pulley-Wheel and ldirected to apply its `pulling); Alorce in substantial parallelism with said guides. i l

lll. In a senf'inp; machine, in combination,y

stitch-forming mechanism, a "travelling y work-holder, parallel ;.'ni(;leWa-ys therefor,

and'Work-holder actuating; means comprisin#- a driven pulley-wheel arranged at the y of said pnlleyavheel, and `guide-pnlleys eni paging said belt at opposite sides of said pulley-wheel formaintaining parallel vvWith said ,onideivays the `portions; of' said belt attached; to .the Work-h ol der.

ll. In a sewing' machine, in combination.

a work-support, a travelling" i Work-holder sustained above the same and comprising` a frame embracing;` therann'o oil action ot the stitch#Formingd mechanism and adapted `to carry the vfabric to be stitched', nctuatingr y means acti n; independently ol" the Work 'For imparting' to the norieholder, work-advancing); movements. and ivorlr-leedinj .means directly einv I' t; 'the fabric adjacent the stitch-formino mechanP i.l v

'In a sewing; macliliner` in combination a*iwork-support, travelli \vo holder snstained alizovethe same and comprising a iframe embaroingr the range ot' action oi the stitcli-lmfminigj mechanisnl and adapted to carry the 'fabric to be. stitched; actuating means actinnindependently of the ivorlt for imparting to the Work-holder continuons Work-'advancing movements, and Work-feeding means directly Vi jacent the stitch-forming' mechanism 'and' ne the fabric adl r l comprising a work-engaging element performing rec-iprocatory workadvancing movements for each stitch-forming cycle.

13. ln a` sewing macliine,'in combination, aI frame comprising a bed-plate and a bracket-arm constructed with a standard and an overhanging member, stitch-forming mechanism disposed at the free end of said overhanging member', feeding mechianism for imparting to the work feeding movements transversely of said overhanging member, driving means, a power-transmitter for establishing operative connection between said driving means and the stitch-forming mechanism, and a starting lever for controlling said power-transmitter disposed beyond the end of the overhanging member of the bracket-arm remote from said standard.

14. 1n a. sewing machine, in combination, a rotary shaft, stitch-forming mechanism connected therewith, a traveling workholder, means adapted to impart to the same travelling movements and including a driving element having a throw in and out driving connection with said sha-ft, and a starting lever for throwing the same into action, and means including an element carried by said work-holder for retracting said lever to interrupt the travel of the work-holder,

15. n a sewing machine, in combination, a rotary shaft, stitch-forming mechanism connected therewith, a travelling workholder, means adapted to impart to the same travelling movements and including a driving element having a throw in and out driving connection with said shaft, and a starting lever for throwing the same into action, and means including` an element adjustably mounted upon said work-holder for causing retraction of said lever to interrupt the travel of the work-holder.

16. ln a sewing machine, in combination, a rotary shaft, stitch-forming mechanism connected therewith, a travelling workholder, means adapted to impart to the same travelling` movements and including a driving element having a throw in and out driving connection with said shaft. and aspringretracted starting lever for throwing the same into action, a spring-catch for maintaining the starting lever in operative position in. opposition to its spring, and a tripping element partalring of the movements of said work-holder for tripping said spring-catch and permitting the lever to assume initial. position under the action of its spring.

17. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder, actuating means for imparting thereto travelling movements, controlling means for said mechanism and said actuating means, and means including a common lever having positive connection with each controlling ses T?! means whereby operation thereof will establish and interrupt operative relation between the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder actuating means and their respective sources of power.

18. 1n a sewing machine, in combination, a rotary shaft, stitch-forming mechanism connected therewith, a traveling workholder, actuating means adapted to impart to the same travelling movements and including a driving element having a disconnectible driving connection with said shaft, a power-transmitter for establishing and interrupting operative relation between said shaft and the source of power, and a lever having independent connections with said power-transmitter and said driving element for simultaneously throwing into and out of operation the stitch-forming mechanism and work-holder actuating means.

19. 1n a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a presser-footy, lifting means therefor, a travelling workholder, actuating means for imparting thereto travelling movements, and means including a common element for establishving and interrupting operative relation between the stitch-forming 'mechanism and work-holder actuating means and their respectivey sources of power and for operating the presser-foot lifting' means.

20. 1n a sewingmachine, in combination, a rotary shaft, stitch-forming mechanism connected therewith, a presser-foot, lifting means therefor, a travelling work-holder, actuating means adapted to impart to the saine travelling movements and including a driving element having a disconnectible driving connection with said shaft, a powertransmitter for establishing and interrupting operative relation between said shaft and the source of power, and a lever having independent connections with Asaid powertransmitter, with said driving element, and with said presser-foot lifting means, for throwing into and out of operation the stitch-forming and work-holder actuating means and operating said presser-foot lifting means.

21. ln a sewing,v machine. in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, driving means therefor including a clutch, a presser-foot, lifting means therefor, a lever. operative connections from said lever to said clutch and said presser-foot lifting means whereby the stitch-forming mechanism may be thrown into and out of action and the presser-foot raised and lowered, respectively, and detaining means adapted to maintain the presser-foot lifted independently of the position of said lever after actuation.

In testimony whereof, .l have signed my name to this speciiication.

instar n. *ne von

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