US1410057A - Multiple-needle sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

G. S. GAICHELI..

MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MAC'HINE.

i APPLICATION FILED AUGJO, 1917.

A ORNEY kum G l QR* INVENTOR Patented Mar. 21

G. S. G AICHELL. MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE..

APPLICATION FILED AUG. I0. 191?.

Patented Mar. 21, 1922.

1 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

INVENTOR ATTORNEY G. S. GAICHELL.

.MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED ^UG.'I0. 1917.

Patented Mar. 21, 1922.

7 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

INV'ENTOR ATToRNY G. S. GATGHELL. MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLlcATIoN FILED AuGJo. |911.

' Patented Mar. 21, 1922.

EETSqsHEET 4.

INVENTOR G. S. GATCHELL.

MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWLNG MACHINE.

APPLlcATxoN FILED Aue.1o,1917.

1,410,057. Patented Mar. 21,1922.

Z SHEETS-SHEET 5.

INVENTOR G. S. GAICHELL.

MULTIPLENEEDLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED AUG. l0. 1917. 1,410,057.

mun.,

1T. non

Mm 8 s A TIOHNEY G. S. GAICHELL.

MULTIPLE NEEDLE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION man Ammo. 19u.

1,410,057. Patented Mar. 21,1922.

7 SHEETS-SHEET T.

@If m L B, l, @f2-meg.-

UNITED STATES PATE-NT *o1-unen.

GEORGE S. GATCHELL, OE ROSELLE PARK, vNEXV JERSEY, .ASSIGNCR T0 `'.lll SINGER MANUFACTURING COMPANY, A CORPGB-ATON OF NEW JERSEY.

MULTIPLE-NEEDLE SEVJNG MACHINE.

nemesi'.

specifica tion of Letters Patent.

Patented Mar. 21, 1922.

Application filed August i0, 1917. Serial No. 185,446.

To a?? fio/7mm it 'may concern c Beit known that I, Gnonon S. GATCHELL, a citizen oi the United States, residing at Roselle Park, in the county of Union and State ot New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Multiple- Needle Sewing Machines, ot' which the tollowing is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to improvements in multiple needle sewing machines ot the type disclosed in the application ot G. E. Molyneux and (l. S. Gatschell, Series No. 40,564, tiled July 19, 1915, and has tor an object the improvement of the threadcontrolling mechanism ot the machine disclosed therein to overcome the noise and speed-limitation incident to the use ot cam-actuated and spring controlled thread engaging levers, aud to prevent skipping of stitches 0r thread-breakage due to abnormal displacement or bunchinoj ot' the needle-loops on the looper, there rendering the machine quiet, smooth-running, and ethcient under highspeed operating conditions.

A further object ot the invention is to provide the machine with improved differential feeding mechanism wherein the stroke ot the fulling feed-member may be readily adjusted while the machine is in operation to suit the character ot the work being stitched; and mechanism operating to secure. a uniform stitch-length regardless of the length oli .stroke ot the ulling feednzomber. i

A 'further object or the invention is to provide a machine which will trim the edges ot the material. and present them in strictly ahutted relation to the stitch-forming mechanism while avoiding an over-crowding of said ahutted edges which, heretofore, has resulted in a seam somewhat bulky or ridged along the center line. further object of the invention is to provide a machine with trimming mechauism and covering thread laying mechanism constructed and arranged to relieve the presser-toot and bar of unnatural strains and to secure a maximum of space in rear ot the stitching point, thereby accommodating a maximum accumulation of work about the arm.

Still further, the invention has for an object to overcome in a large measure the objectionable eiiects caused by the inertia and patent to liunsing No. 506,524, October 10,

i893; an additional needle beingadoled in the present instance, to form an additional row of stitches; The needle-thread control- ,g mechanism includes a series ot threadcams adapted to act on the needle-threads directly, instead of through cam-controlled thread-arms. thereby securing a positive action upon theneedle-threads and avoiding the noise and slugffishness of operation incident to the use oi? said thread-arms.` In the present instance the thread-cams are specially shaped to closely and differentially control the needle-threads, as'will behereinafter explained, to meet the exacting tlnead-control requirements of a multipleneedlc single-looper machine of the present character.

It teature ot the present machine is the vcore-arm which is sector-shaped in crosssection and wit-hin which the looper-shaft and diterential Jfeed are incorporated.v In multi ple-needle machines. having the usual shortradius looper there is a great tendcncv for the needle-loops to crowd together on the looper rather than remain properly spar-cd apart to permit the passage of the needles to one side ot their respective loo s. ly virtue of the present construction t e longest possible radius of oscillation of the loopcr is provided, consistent with a given minimum circumterence of the work-arm. ln addition to the long-radius looper the machine may he itted with loop-detainers one of which holds back on the looper-blade the first loop entered by the looper, so that said loop can not possibly slip forwardly and into the path ot its corresponding neelle during the loop-shedding stroke of the looper. 'The remaining loop-detainers hold their respective loops forwardly on the looper-blade and prevent said loops from b-V dragged back into the paths of adja needles by the retracting-looper.

lVhile these loop-detainers are not generally essential to the practical operation of the present stitch-forming mechanism, their use under special conditions u ay sometimes he deemed desirable.

vThe 'feeding mechanism is of the differential type represented in the application ot (l. E. Molyneux Serial No. 32,269, filed July 5, 1915, although differing therefrom in certain important particulars. In the present instance the main and auxiliary auxiliary feed-dog; Additional adjustments of the` feed-dogs, relatively to their feedhars. are provided. for varying the Valcove defined positions of the feed-dogs relatively to the Vstitching point. Y

The machine is, inthe present instance, equipped with a presser-toot having a pivoted sole-portion cooperating with the :teed-` dogs and including spaced toes between which the npturned marginal portions ot material are adapted to Vbe presented and `fed toward the stitching point.` The trim ming mechanism` of the present machine includes cooperative shearing blades adapted to operate'directly alcovev the space between the toes of the presser-foot. The lower or ledger-blade is mounted independently oit' the presser-foot and is adapted to rise and fallwith the latter. The cutter-blade is also mounted for rising and falling movements and is springpressed against theV ledgerblade; being carried by an oscillating lever fulcrumed on the bracket-arm independently of the pressertar.

To avoid the roduction ot a bulky or ridged seam due to an overcrowding olE the marginal portions of the trimmed material as itis pressed down Vhy the presser-foot after leaving the .trimming mechanism, the throat-plate of the present machine is provided with an inverted V-shaped ridged member whose crest extends in a direction substantially parallel to the line otteed and against the oppositely` inclined sides ot which the materlal'is pressed by correspondingly `inclinedunder surfaces termed at the inner edges of the presser-toot toes. Thus, the Width of fabric remaining within the range of' the needles is materially reduced and, as a result, an absolutely Vflat seam is produced. A suitable trimming guide is provided to deflect the trimmings and is mounted on the hracketarin to swing outwardly to an inoperative position facilitating threading ot the needles and coverthread fingers. lhe'trimming guide is cone nected with the presser-har independently ot the lpresser-toot, to rise and tall with the latter.

In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 is a right side elevation 'of the machine, partly iii-section. F ig. 2 is a similar View from the lett side ol" `the machine. iFig. is a top plan view of the machine with the inclined driving shaft for the taire-up cams omitted. Fig. et is a horizontal section through the standardahove the plane of the work-arm and showing the work-arm in plan. Fig. 5 is a iront elevationot the machine with the looper enclosing endcap in, section. Fig. 5 is a front Velevation ot the supporting trame and clamping devices for the stripper plates used in connection with the upper thread-controllingV cams. Fig. 6 is a rear end elevation ot the machine partly iu section to expose the V1i'ieclr..iiisin housed within the standard. Fig. G@ is a cross-section through the tensioirsnpporting trame illustrated in Fig. (S. Fig/i" is au enlarged plan fview of the 'lree end'V lioition of the worlearm; Fig. 8 is a crossseeti m through the take-up supporting 1 Vame. `Fig. 9 is a perspective view of 1a detail oit the looper-actuating mechanism. Figs. 10 and 11 are cross-sections through the work-arm on-tlie `lines 1O-10` and 11-11., respectively. Fig. 4. Fig. 12 is a vertical transverse section` through the throat-plate on the line 12-12 ot Fig. 13. Fig. "18 is a bottom plan view of the throat-plate showing the loopdetainers carried thereby. Fig. 141 is a trans verse vertical section 'through the throat plate and pressen'loot with the work in position therebetween and showing the relation ot the trimmer-blades to the ridged worksupporting member carried hy the throatrplate. Fig. 'l5 is a plan view of the mechanism carried hy the bracketarm adjacent the stitching` point. Fig. 15 a perspective view of the same with the work in position. Figa 16 is a vertical sectiolr taken in a vplane passii'ig tl'irough the axis of the lower section olf the presser-liar shown in Fig. 16. Figs. 17 and 18 are perspective views oi the mechanism at the under side of the throat-plate showingl the cooperation el* thelooper and needle-loep detainers. .`i i9 a top plan view illustrating the cooperative `relation of. the'needles. loopcr. needlesloops, and needledoop detainers. l? 20 is a vertical longitudinal section on the `line 20-20, Fig. 19, with the throat-plate and material added. Fig. 21. is a similar view on the line 21-21, Fig. 11.9.y Figs22 and'23 are side elevations ot the teer mechanism at the ending and lieginnni points, respectively,` of a 'feeding 1troln.\

Fig. 2-1- is an enlarged view illustrating the respective shapes of the take-up and threadcontrolling cams mounted on the hraclretarm and Fig. is a perspective view ol? the seam produced by the machine.

rl`he improvements are shown applied to a machine having a base 1 from which rises the standard 2 carrying the overhanging bracket-arm 3 terminating in the hollow head 1-. Secured to the standard 2 is the hanged rearward extremity7 orn the tubular work-supporting arm which is formed with two angularly arranged flat sides G, ,T (Figs. and 11) and a curved upper side 8, whereby said work-arm is substantially sectorshaped in cross-section. Secured to the front or free end of the work-arm casting is the throat-plate 9 whose opposite lateral edges are grooved at 10 to slidably receive and support the end cap 11 which is sectorshaped at its rearward end to conform to the cross-sectional shape ot the work-arm. The under surface ot' the end cap tapers upwardly and the sides thereof taper ilo-rwardly toward the free end ci the throatplate7 as shown in Figs. 1 and F.ito facilitate the advance oi' tubular work about the work-arm and toward the stitch-forming mechanism. Journaled -in and crosswisc ot the stanuard 2, above the horizontal plane of the work-arm and crosswise o' the verticalplane ot' the wort-arm, is the main shai't 12 carrying a pulley wheel 13 and handwheel 14 both cast integral with a common hub 15.

The main-shaft is formed with a ballcrank 1G which. is embraced hy the lower strapped end of a pitrnan 17 the upper strapped end of which embraces a ball-ended crank-pin 18 carried by the crank-arm 18 at the rear end 'E the needle-actuating rock-shaft 19 which is journaled within the bracket-arm 3 and, at its forward end` carries a crank-arm 2O connected to the reciprocating needle-btu 21 by means o1' the link Secured to the lower end ot the needle-bar 21 is the needle-clamp-blocl; 23 which, in the present instance, is socketed to re feivevtour needles al, a?, a3 and a* arranged in a vertical plane transverseljv of the work-arm 5.

Mounted within the end cap 11, in cooperative relation with the needles, is the thread-carrying looper 2&1; the upper edge ot the blade of which is curved concentrically vith the curved upper side of the workarin, F ig. 5, while the lower edge 2l of said blade is but slightly curved or may even be substantia ly straight throughout a portion of its length. rl`he slottedl shank of the looper is secured to the looper-support 25 bj: a screw permitting adjustment ot the looper-blade toward and from the thing wlan-e. The looper-support is clamped t:

i the iront end ,ot the oscillating and endwise movable looper-shaftfl which is journaled within and lengthwise o'f the work-arm 5 as closely as practicable to the apex of the angle formed by the flat sides 6 and 7 thereof, ldigs-f10 and 11, said angle being large enough to accommodate the necessary loop-seizing and -shedding strokes oi1 the looper. It will be understood that this arrangement aii'ords the longest possible radius of oscillation ol? the looper-blade for a, given circumference ot' the work-arm. ln machines of the present character the circumference of the work-arm is limited by the size of the smallest tubular articles to be stitched and, in multiple-needle singlelooper machines, the longer the radius of oscillation of the looper-blade the greater the degree or' certainty with which the needle-loops will be seized and maintained evenly spaced apart on the looper, as is essential to the formation ot a seam or' the present character, since the needles in their descent must pass their respective previouslyY formed loops wit-hout catching or splitting the threads thereof.

lt will be seen by referring to Figs. 5 and 12 that the needle-eyes are arranged on an incline; 'being placed at progressively lower elevations beginning with the needle nl to compensate for the upward movement of the needles as the looper-bealcadvances across the spacebetween said needles; the purpose being to insure the passage ot the looper-beak at the correct distance above each needle-eye'to insure seizure of therespective needle-loop. lt will be further seen by referring to Fig. 5 that the needle points are arranged substantially in a common plane parallel tothe plane of the throatplate; the purpose being to insure that the previously formed needle-loops on the looper will be passed simultaneously by their respective needles at the time the lower edge 2l of 'the looper-blade occupies a substantially horizontal or otherwise 1favorable angular position relatively to the throat-plate.

The looper-sharft 2T carries at its rearward enda crank-arm 2S having a ballcranlr-pin 29 which is embraced by the lower strapped end of a link 30 the upper strapped end ot which embraces a ball-eccentric 31 on the main-shaft 12 which imparts loopseizing and shedding movements to the.

looper. The hub ot' the crank-arm 28 is formed with a rearward extension carrying a ball-ended pin 28disposed concentrically with the axis ot the looper-shatt and embraced by the socketed end of a link 32 whose opposite end is connected to the depending arm of a rock-lever fulcruined to oscillate upon and independently of the cross-shaft 3-1 journaled in the standard 2. The upwardly/extending arm 35 of said roch-lever is slotted at 36 to receive an adjustable piu 3? which, through the pitman 238, connects said lever with the eccentric 39 farried by the` main-shaft; said eccentric serving to impart sidcwise or needle-avoiding movements to the looper.

Phe Afeeding meclmnism is as follows: secured to the niailrshaft is the leed-advancing eccentric 410 which is connected by the pitman alito the rocker-mun flrthe split hub 4? oi' which is clamped to the crosssha'tt 3l to which shaft Vis also clamped the split hubs of the main 'feed-advancing rockerearm 44: and the auxiliary feed-advancing rocker-arm 45. The rockerearnr 44:V is formed with a curved slot 46 in which is adjustably secured` a pin 47 connected to one end ot a link 4S the opposite endv of which is pvotally connected to a lever 49 depending Vfrom a lined fnlcrum-pin 50 which extends across and within the standard 2 in parallelism with the main-shaft The lower .end of the lever i9 is pivotally conneiL-ted to the rearwardend oi the main 'feedebar 5l which extends within and longitudinally of the Work-arm and, at its forward end, carries a screw-pin 52, Fig. Il, which passes through the slotted shank 51:3- of the main 'leed-dog 5st and serves to secure the latter to said bar while permitting adjustment of the teeddog lengthwise of said bar.` lben the main feed-dog is `at the forward end of its stroke, Fig. 23, the slot 46 assumes a position-eoneentrlcwith the point of pivotal connectionbetween the link 48 and the lever 49 so that the main teeddog Will always assume the same forward position regardless ofthe position of adjust-v ment of the )in 47 in the slot 46'. The main feed-dog 54. ispreferably so adjusted: on the mainfeedbarthat the front tooth of said feed-dog will rise into engagement with the fabric in a position somewhat in advance ot' the needles, as shown in Fig. 23.

The auxiliar' feed-rocker l5 is formed with a curved s ot 55 in which istted a pin 56 carried by the rear end of a link 57 the front end of which ispivotally connectedf to a lever depending from the Jr'ulcrum-pin 50. The lower end of the lever 58 is pivotally. connected to one end ot a link-section 59, the opposite end of which carries a .fixed pin 6() and a screw 61, both extending through `the slot 62 in the rear end ol the link-section 63,` the front end of which is pivotally connected at 64 to a bracket 65 screwed to the side of the auxiliary feedbar 66 which is deeply recessed or grooved at its under side, Fig. 1l, to fit about and slide uponthe forward end-portion of the main eed-bar'l. The feed-bar 66 carries Vthe auxiliaryfeed-dogt. llVhen the auxiliary feeddog 67 is at the rear end of its stroke,Fig. 22, the curved slot 55 is substantially concentric with the pivotal connection between the link 57 and lever 58 and, as a result, the auxiliary feed-dog will always assume the same position relatively to the needles at the end of its feeding stroke, regardless of the position of adjustment oit the pin 56. ll're-er ably thelink-sections V59 and 63 areso adjusted that the rear tooth of the auxiliary `leed-dog will end its feeding stroke at the Vwhile the machine is Vin operation by means of the trcadle-controlled lever-arm 68 which is mounted on the rocleshaft 69 iulcrumed in the standard 2 and carrying a lever-arm 68 which is connected by the link 70 to the link 57. s Adjustable stop-screws 7l and 72l are yprovided to limit the range oi movement oit the leverarm 63 and Va spring 73 connected to the leverarm G8 and tothe frame serves to return the parts to normal position when pressure upon the treadle is released. `The main and auxiliary leed-bars are sup ported within the workarm on a 'Fulcrumblock Telwhich is fitted within the slot 7 in the main teed-bar and is carriedV by the tulcrum-pin 76, supported, in turn, at the lforward end of the feed-lifting lever 77 which is pivoted within the worlearm on the trnnnionscrews 7S,- 78. The said lifting lever 77 is rocked by means of the eccentric V7S carried by the main-shaft and embraced bythe upper strapped end of a pitman 79-tl1e lower end of which is pivotally connected to a rearward extension oit said ileed-lii`ting lever.

The reed-dogs cooperate with a presser foot comprising, inthe present instance, a sole-piece 80, Fig. l, )ivotedvat Sl to the shank secured to the lower end oft the lel sections offset from one another and con- Vnected `to move 'as one bar by means of the lateral arm Sel. "The lower section of the presser-bar is jonrnaled inthe bushing S5 and Wearing lug 86, Fig. l, and the upper section is journaled in alined bearings 'formed on the bearingliig,8`7, Fig. 5, and in the top oit the head a. Thejpresser-bar carries a bracket S8 extending laterally through a slot 89 in the heads and acted Vupon by a leaf spring 90 the pressure of which may be adjusted by means olV the screw `91. The presser-foot maybe liiifted by means of the usual treadle-controlled lever 88 the forward extremity of which extends under 'the bracket 8S. The sole-piece of the presserfoot is `formed with forwardly extending spaced Vtoes 92,A Figs. l5 and 16, deiining a slot within which the upturned portions of material to be stitched pass toward the stitching point.

mechanism comprising, in the-present in iis rthe cutter-blade rests upon the ledger-A blade and'is clamped to the lower end of the vertically slidable rod ournaled in spaced lues 99 toi-med at the 'forward end ot the cutter-lever arm 100 which is 'fulcrumed on the headed pin 101 lined to and depending vertically trom the bracket-arm 3 at a point closely in rear ot the head hl. The other arm 102 ofthe cutter-lever is Vlorlied at its eX- tremity to embrace a block 103 carried by the crank-pin 1011 secured to the crank-disk 105 on the vertical shalt 106 which is rocked through a bevel-gear connection 107 with the needle-actiuiting` rock-shaft 19. rThe cutterblade slide-rod 98 is prevented from turning` in its bearing lugs by means oi the collar S. ig- 15, secured thereto and slotted at 109 to embrace vertical guide-walls 110 Vibi-med at opposite sides ot the vertical extension 100 at the t'ront end ot the leverarm 100. A springl 111 snrrounding` the slideaod 9S and interposed between the collar 108 and upper bearingr lug 99 serves to press the cutter-blade against the ledgerblade and maintain the latter in its groove in the presser-foot. v o

il collar 112. similar to the collar 108 is secured to the ledger-blade carrying rod 95 and cooperates with guide-walls on the bracket 9T to prevent turning oit the rod 'll his collar may, if` desired, be adjusted downwardly sutliciently to maintain the ledgerLblade at any desired eleyation above the bottom of its groove in the presser-foot, as will be readily understood. Thus, while the trimming;` blades are mounted to move 'up and down with the presser-toot they may also be adjusted to act at a fixed elevation independently ot the presser-'toot and, turthermore, the presser-foot does not have to resist the cutting thrust of the cutting blade`r which in prior constructions tends to (wiststrain the presser-'toot laterally or impart other unnatural strains to the presser-toot.

The trimmings are deflected to one side of the work-arm and prevented from interfei` ingr with the action of the parts adj acentthe stitching peint by means ot the trimming guide 116 comprising trough shaped member set on its side and having7 a receiving end cut to fit closely over the trimmer-blades, as shown in Fig. 16. The trimming` guide 116 is carried at the lower end of the rod 117 journaled in a bearing lug 118 formed on the guide-bracket 97. The rod 1117 sustains at its upper end a laterally projecting finger-piece 119 which normally extends through a slot 120 in the side-wall of the bearinfcg` lug 118 and locks the trimminfbr guide in operative position. By lifting the finger-piece out of the slot 120 the trimming guide may be elevated and maythen be turned laterally to inoperative position; the f linger-piece 119 then resting upon the upper end of the bearing lug- 118, as shown-in Figs. 5 and 15. The coiled spring 121, Fig. 2, surrounding the reduced upper portion ofthe rod 1177 within the bearing lug 118, presses said rod downwardly and yieldingly maintains the lingerpiece 119 in engagement with the lower sleeved extremity of the adjustable link 122 depending from the bracket S8 Vcarried by the presser-bar. By means of this connection the trimming` guide will be caused to move up-and-down in unison with the presser-'toot` but will not press downwardly against the latter or interfere with the tilting of the sole-piece 80. Further than this, an upward movement of the presser-foot will not tend to twist or strain the trimming guide or cramp the supporting` rod 117 in its bearings,

as would be the case iffthe treeend of the trimming guide rested upon the presser-foot.

1n prior machines of the present character the work hasbeen sharply bent upwardly about the lower inner corners of thepresserfoot toes and, when trimmed, an excess ot vertically extending material remains below the pla-ne of action of the trimmer-blades to be pressed downwardly and incorporated in the seam. This results inan overcrowding ot the material within the seam making it bulky or ridged alongrthe center line. To avoid this overcrowding of the material and facilitate the production of a perfectly tlat seam, the throat-plate ot the present machine is fitted' with a narrow and elongated ridged member 123 whosecrest 124 is disposed eentrally of and parallel with the line ot seam formation and within the space between the presser-toes 92, Figs. 5 and 1K1; the under surfaces of 7said toes being inclined at their inner edgesto correspond or coact with derstood that this construction lmaterially reduces the amount of material to be subsequently flattened and stitched.y In the present instance, as the eut edge-portions of material leave the trimmer they travel down the inclined rearward end 125, Figui', of the ridg'ed member and are directed into abutting relation in the plane of' the work by the iis cross-bar 126, Fig. 15, of the presser-foot without being unduly overcrowded.

The Cmf'ering threads to be incorporated in the upper' side of the seam are presented by a pair of eyed `threzul-lingers havingcurved horizontally disposed blades 127 and Vertically arranged shank's l128; the latter being secured in socketed bosses 129 at the tree ends oi the thread-linger carrying levers 130 the opposite apertured ends of which are ulcrumed upon the lower reduced end of the bushing or sleeve surrounding,r the presser-bar, as shown in Fig. 16", The thread-finger blades are preferably curved to the same radius concentrically with the presser-bar and operate in planesrone slightly above the other. Simultaneous oscillatory movements in opposite directions are imparted to the levers by means of the links ,131 which `connect the latter with one arm of the bellcrank lmfer132 fulerumed on the headed pin 133 carried by the head 4. The 4otllier arm of the bellcrank lever carries a ball-ended pin 132 which connected by a link 133 to a ball-ended -pin 134 carried by the lower end of `the de.- pending arm 134 clamped to the front end of the rock-shaft 135 journaled at the side `od? the bracket-arm in the` bearing lug 136. The rear end of the shaft 135 `carries a `crank-arm 137 which projectsinto the standard 2 through an opening 138 in the side of the latter and is connected by a balland-socket joint to the upper end of the pit- `man 139 actuated by a ball-eccentric 140 on the hollow counter-shaft 141 journaled on the fixed pin 141 in parallelism with the main-shaft and driven by the latter through two-to-one speed-reducing gears 1112. f"1`he thread-fingers yare thus actuated back-andforth across the line of seam in front of the needles at one-half the .frequency of reciproeation of the needles, so that each threadnger presents itsthread to the needles alternately at lopposite sides Iof the line of seam. It will now be appreciated that when the trimming guide 116'isshi1fte'd to inoperative `position the thread-fingers and needles will be exposed and may readily be threaded.

The take-up for the needle-threads consists of a thread-guiding bracket 1413 secured tothe top yof the .needle-bar 21 and formed `with a horizontal bar having` individual needle-thread eyes 144. Cooperating with the take-up bracket 1113 to diiferentially control the needlethreadstl, t?, t3 and t* are the respective thread-engagng` cams fc?, c2, c3 sind e", each of which comprises, in 'the present instance, two similar spaced disks formed integral with a common hub. Said cams are `mounted on acam-shaft 145 which `isjour- -naled `in a thread-controller trame 14:6 secured to the ytop -ot the bracketarm `and 4is `driven by a one-to-one borrel-.gear connection 1&7 with the upper end of an inclined shait 148 enclosed within the shaft casing 148. The lower end of the shaft lll-8 is connected to the counter-shaft v141 by a oneto-two speed multi plying` bevel-gear connection 1419, whereby the shai'tll is driven. at the same speed as the main-shaft 12. .Rising from the frame 1116 are `two standards 1507 F igs. 1 and 3, to each of which are pivoted the .sh-anke of two similar fork-shaped threadguides 15.1, the tines of each :fork being dis- .poscd at opposite sides of a. corresponding one of said thread-cams and apertured at 152 to guide the thread across the active peripheral portion of said.l cam. Threaded into the shank of each thread-guidinifork soY 1151 is an adjusting screw 153 which deter- Y mines the position or height o1: the thread eyes 152. spring` 1511; presses against the inclined rear end of the shank of each fork and yielding'ly maintains the screw 153 in contact with the top-surface of the standard 150. @ne of the tines of each fork 151 is extended forwardly to form a fingenpiece 1:55 `which-may be readily lifted by the operator to shift the fork to threading position, shown in dotted lines, Fig. 1. Disposed in a plane between the spaced members of each thread-cam is a corresponding stripper-plate 156 the upper extremity ot which is slotted at 157 to guide the thread and to causev said cam to deflect the thread radially, thereby overcoming the tendency of the cam to carry the thread around with it. The shanks 156 .ofthe stripper-plates 156 are fitted in corresponding slots cut in the supporting block or frame 156 and deiining' spaced and opposed abutmcnts 156'" against which the Shanks 156 are clamped by vmeans of the arched springs 156a through the centers of `which pass the screws 156; said screws serving to slightly flatten thespringjs 156n and thereby clamp the Shanks of the stripperplates 156 .tightly against the abutments 156", asw1llbe--readily understood. n

CooperatinSg)` with the thread-cams are a series o1' thread-nippers 0*, one :tor each thread. As these nippers are all alike a desleeve 158 and sustained by a cross-pin 163 extending through the pin 160. lournaled in the frame 146 at the lower ends o't the pins 160 is `rock-shaft 161 which is cut away Linder each ol" said pins to afford a lifting shoulder 161i. rfhe rock-shalt 16a as the thread-nippers fr act to lock the neecarries a crank-arm 165 which is pivotally connected to a pitnian 166 actuated by the eccentric 16T on the shaft lel The threadnippers fr act to lock and release the needlethreads during each cycle ol' operations, as will be more fully explained.

In addition to the needle-thread Canis, the sha't't 145 carries a covering tlnead-controller cani and a covering thread pullol'l cani c6. These canis and their` cooperative thread-guides and stripper-plates are substantially of the saine construction as the needle-thread earns and need no lfurther description. pluralityot superposed threadnipper springs 16S are disposed between the lhrezul-cains ff and c and are actuated in the usual inanner by the cani 169 on the shaft 1-15 to nip the covering threads during the action ot the pull-ofi cani es.

series of guard-members or springs 170 are provided to prevent winding of the needle-thread about the take-up shaft'let in case oit' thread-breakage. Each of the guardspring is wide enough to extend across the space between adjacent canis and the ends of said springs niay be fitted into suitable re i-esses provided ticretor in the frame 1&6, as shown in Fig. S.

Mounted on top ot the bracket-arm at the 'far of the machine is a tension-supporting traine 170* carrying a series of tensions 1.71 for the needle, looper and covering threads. Fach ol these tensions includes a tension-repin 172 beingolf the well known const ic'tion disclosed, for example in the patent to lle Tfoe. No. tiled-L05. ,ln the present instance, however, the pins 172 are lifted to release the tensions by shoulders 117.2 a ll'orded by notches in the tension-releasing roi'fk-shaits 175 journaled in the traine One oit the rock-shafts 175 carries an 1 'ng a lateral pin 17? einbraced y the forked extremity 17S of a lever179 A o the other rock-shalt 175V and actu- ;ij.' means ot' a link connection 180 with toot litting-leier 8S. lVhen the is lil/ted all the tensions 171 will accordingv be released.

` d-engaging earns carried by the 'e shaped substantially as illus- `l in rig. 21. Starting at the p 'tion sneu-ir the needle-bar is at its highest point and the tliread-nippers i are opened; the threads being restrained or steadied, howover.y by the tensions 171. As the needles descend` the outwardly inclined portions of the cams to the lett of the thread-eyes 152 posicively take up or absorb the slack given up b v the descending take-up guide-bar 14:3, thereby preventing the formation oit' slack thread l elow the needle-eyes and maintaining the previous needle-loops snugly about the looper-blade.

The eye` olI the needle la enters the work start to rise.

elle-threads and as the peak 'L44' of cani ,ci

passes the linel of stationary thread-guides 152,y rllhe inward inclination of cam c4 following the peak ut gives up the thread required by the eye oi' needle 'nt as it doubles its thread below the nia-terial. Similarly, at successively later stages, the peaks us, u and nl et the cams c3, c2 and c1, respectively, passY the guides 152 as the eyes oit needles n3, n2 and nl, respectively, descend below the work, and the inward inclines vfollowing said peaks give up the thread required by the respective needle-eyes as they double their thread below the work.

At the point o* the previously formed loopot the needle a* is shed from the looper and the outward incline following the point o4 and leading` to the peak fw4 acts positively to quickly take up or tighten said loop. Similarly at the point-s o3, 'v2 and o1, the respective loops el needles n?, a2 and nl are successively shed by the looper and are successively and positively tightened by the outward inclines following .the points o3, o2 and el and leading to the respective peaks w3, wf and w1. The inward inclines following said last-mentioned peaks give up the thread required by the needles to complete their down-strolses7 while'niaintaining the previous needle-threads somewhat tautf and closely under control. i v

lYhen the needles reach the end ol their down-stroke the' cains have rota-ted 1800 and the slight inward inclination of the cani c following` this point slightly slackens the thread z" so that the loop thrown out'by the needle a will not be robbed ot any oit its thread or reduced in size by the contracting tendency of the threadwhen relieved ot strain. The progressively steeper outward incliues ot' the earns c2, ci and ci', following the point7 act toV reduce 'the sizes of the respective loops presented by the needles n?, In: and it, by drawing thread back through the eyes ol' said needles, to reduce said loops to the proper size prior to their seizure by the looper-beak. It will be understood-that since the eye voli-the needle 'fait descends below the work a greater distance than. the needle n3 Sec., niore thread will have to be drawn hack through the eye of' the needle n* than throughthe eye of the needle 7113, prior' to seizureo the needle-loops on the looper. in order that said loops may be reduced to substantially the saine size. The nippers i' are opened as the needles Vllh en the pea-k reaches the line of thread-guide 152, the looper-beak will just I CIJ lll() have entered the loop ot' the needle fn and i the inward inclination of the `cani c', Afolilowing the peak c'c, will give up just enough thread. to compensate tor the rtake-up action of the needle-bar and niaintainitheiloop of `needle a snugly about the looper-blade.

Similarly, as the peaks ad, m3 and ai pass' the `gaiides at successively later stages, the looper will have succes ively seized the loops ot `the respectixe needles n?, n and nfl', and the in 7ard inelines tollmving said peaks will give up just enough Vthread to co1npensate for the take-up action o' the rising needle-bau' and maintain the loops oi' said needles snugly about the looper-blade.

After the cams have rotatedabout 3250 the last mentioned giving up action ot' the cams ceases and the continued upward movement of the needle-bar guides 141 acts to draw or measure trom the supply. the amount oi thread required for the next stitch, the nippers r being still open;

By these means the needle-threads are controlled in a positive and eicient manner and a high-speed quiet running and quick acting system of differential thread-controllers is provided, thus insuring a full realization of the .important advantages inherent in the idea of controlling the needle-threads differentially as disclosed. in said Molyneux and Gatchell application Serial No. 40,564.

By the use of a long radius looper in con- `junction with the present thread-controlling back into the mechanism, the needle-loops on the looper `Will ordinarily be maintainedl evenly spaced apart so that each needle in its descent will pass down beside its respective previously formed loop. However, to further insure against abnormal displacement ot the needle-loops on the looper, the machine may, if desired, be equip ed with the loop-detainers comprising, in t e present instance, three `hooked lingers 18,1 for cooperation with the loopsoi. the needles n2, and u* and au additional oppositely hooked'linger 182 for cooperation with the loop ot the needle n. The detainers 181vareV formed at the end of a plate 183, the slotted shank of which is `entered by a screw 184 securing the shank of `said plate within a groove 185 at the under side of the throat-plate, thereby permittin adjnstmentof said lingers lengthwise o'. thethroat-plate and facilitating accurate positioning of said ingers relatively to the needles and looper. y

The tip ends of the detainers 183 are curved or inclined opposite to the direction of retraction of the looper and are positioned between the needlepaths and above the looper-path to engage the upper limbs ot the respective previously `formed needle-loops extending betweenthe last stitch and the.

curved up er edge ot the looper-blade, as shown in igs. 20 `and 21 and prevent the `retmcting looper from draggingsaid loops aths of their respective next adjacent need es. In practice, it is found that there isa tendency for the previously formed loop of the needle n to slip to fard `the point of the looper and into the path of said needle. To" avoid this dilliculty, the looper-blade may be notched to provide a shoulder 186 adapted to engage the loop ot said needle n during the iii-st 'part ot the rctracting ,stroke o't' the looper, as shown in AFig. 1T, and drag said loop backwardly a. slight distance past. said linger 192, the looper at the saine time also moving sidewise under said iinger, whereupon the loop slips over the shoulder 180 and is detained at one side of the path ot the needle a by said linger, as shown in Figs. 19 and 2t. The tip end o1' the finger 182 is lne'terably curved or directed slightly toward the direction ot retraction of the looper-blade and is made separately :from the detainers 181 being, in tho present instance, secured to the plate 183 by a screw 187 which permits adjustment ot the finger 182 about said screw as a pivot.

The machine is provided with means controlled by the thickness olf the 'work ier regulating the amount of thread measured from the supply by the thread-eyes 144C. Rising iroin the top oi? the head l is a. post 190 carrying a pivot-screw 191 upon which is ulcrnmedit-he lever 192, the rearwardly .extending arm of which is provided' with a slot 193 entered by a lateral pin 19e/t adjustably secured in the horizontal slot 195 `formed in the bracket 196 having an apertured hub surrounding and tired to the presser-bar. The forwardly extending arm oit the lever 192 is apertured at its :tree end to receive and support a horizontal threadengaging rod 19T having a down-turned ei;- tremity 198. The rod 197 is disposed closely in rear ot the plane ot reciprocation oit the take-up eyes 1114 and arrests the upward movement ot the needle-threadlengths extending vforwardly from the thread-guiding torks 191 and causes the thread-eyes 1414i to pull an amount oli thread trom the supply depending upon the elevation ot the rod 197. It the work increases in thickness the rod 197 will be lowered and consequently will arrestthe upward movement ot the needlethreads earlier and increase the pullolt action of the threadfguides 1434i-, accordingly, as will be clear from an inspection of ,Fig 1.

f, ournaled within. and crosswise of the rearward end oi' the worm-arm 5 is a sha-tt 199 which is connected to the gear 14:2 on the hollow counter-shaft 1451 by a gear 200 ot one-half the size ot the gearm14r2 in order that the shaft 199 will bo driven at the saine speed as the main-shaft 12.

VMounted upon the shaft 199 and within the Y the looper advances and retreats while the cam 202 is shaped to measure off a supply of looper-thread required for the formation of a stitch. Cooperating with the cams 201 and 202 are thread-enga ging forks 203 whose tines are apertured at 204: and whose shanks 205 are pivoted at 206 to brackets 207 mounted on lugs 208 within the work-arm. The thread guiding apertures 20st maybe raised or lowered by means of adjusting screws 209 and the rearward inclined ends of the Shanks 205 are acted upon by springs 210 to yieldingly maintain the screws 209 in contact with the brackets 207 wliilepermitting the forks to be swung upwardly to threading position. Stripper wires 211, corresponding in function to the stripper-plates 156 previously described, are situated between the disks of each cani. The nipper-cam 203 acts upon a `pair of superposed nippersprings 212 to nip the looper-tliread; the

`timing in the present instance being such that the nippers are closed upon the thread as the looper begins Vits retracting stroke, andare opened as soon as the advancing looper has entered all of the needle-loops. The pull-ofi" cam 202 begins to pull looper- .thread from the supply as soon as the nippers 212 are closed and gives lup the thread to the advancing looper as soon as the nippers are opened. The incorporation of a rotary looper-thread controller within a liollow work-supporting arm is believed to be broadly new with me and it is an important improvement over prior devices of a similar nature for the -reason that it is located nearer the stitching point and consequently will allow the relatively short length of thread extending forwardly to the looper to vbe rapidly and readily paid out and taken up exactly as required by the loopei, as it alternately advances and retreats.

vHaving thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is Y 1.' A sewing machine comprising, in combination, .a frame including a fixedv worksiipport and an overhanging bracket-arm, a

.spring-pressed presser-bar journaled in said bracket-arm, a presser-footcarried by said.

presser-bar and having spaced toes between which upturned marginal portions of material are adapted to pass, and trimming mechanism mounted on said frame independently of said presser-foot and bar and including cooperating shearing Yelements adapted to trim off said up-tiirned portions of material.

2. A sewing machine comprising, in combination, a frame including an overhanging bracket-arm, a presser-bar, a presser-foot carried by' said presser-bar and having spaced toes between which Mupturned marginal portions of material are Vadapted to pass, and trimming mechanism mounted on said frame independently of said pressercating a foot and bar and including n downwardly spring pressed cooperative shearing elements resting upon said presser-foot and adapted to trim @if said upturned marginal portions of material.

3. A sewing machine comprising, in conibination, a frame including an overhanging bracket-arm, a presser-bar, a presser-foot Vcarried by said presser-barand including presser-foot lcarried thereby and including a pivoted sole-portion formed with spaced .toes between which upturned marginal portionsofV` material are adapted to pass, and downwardlyspring-pressed trimming means adapted to rest u )on the pivoted sole-portion of said presseroot and trim off said upturned marginal portions of material.

5. A sewing machine comprising, in com- 'bination a frame including an overhang'ing bracket-arm, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a presserfoot including spaced toes between which upturned marginal portions or material are adapted to pass and be trimmed, a presserbar supporting said presser-foot, ai'ledgerblade mounted on said frame independently" of said presser-foot and bar and reciproand downwardly spring-pressed cutter-b de resting upon said ,let ger-blade.

6. A sewing machine comprising, in combination, a frame including an overhanging bracket-arm, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a springvpressed presser-bar, a presser-foot carried thereby and including spaced,toesbetweeim which Vupturned marginal portions of lmaterial are adapted to pass and be trimmed, a ledger-blade resting upon saidv presser-foot, a `bar movably mounted upon said frame independently of said presser-bar and carrying said ledger-blade, and a reciprocating and downwardly spring-pressed cutter-blade resting upon said ledger-blade and yieldingly pressing the latter against said presseri 7. A sewing machine comprising, in com! bination, a frame including an overhanging bracket-arm, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle, a springpressed presser-bar, a presser-foot carried thereby and comprising a shank Vand a pivoted sole-portion formed with spaced toes between which upturned marginal portions of material are adapted to pass and be trimmed, a ledger-blade resting upon,

izo

`said `presser-foot, `a bar movablyinounted upon said frame independently of said presser-bar andl carrying said ledger-blade, anda reciprocatin and downwardly spiingpressed cutter-bla e resting upon said ledger-blade and yieldingly lpressing the latter against said presser-foot. y Y

8. A sewing machine comprising, in combination, fabric-uniting means, a work-suport having angularly related flat surfaces `intersecting in an edge to form a ridge extending lengthwise of the line of seam-for- `mation, presser-means adapted to press the work against the fiat side surfaces of said ridge and including spaced portions defining a slot between which upturned marginal portions of material are "adapted to pass, trimming mechanism disposed in advance of said fabric-uniting means and adapted to trimoff said upturned marginal portions of material, and means for pressing the trimmed edge portions of material into abutting relation before they are1 united. 'f

` 9."A sewing machine comprising, in combination, a frame, covering stitch-forming mechanism incorporated in said frame, feeding `mechanism including Va feed-dog,

`presser means opposed thereto and including spaced `work-engaging toes between which upturned marginal portions of niaterial areadapted to pass toward the stitching point, awork-support having angularly arranged flat surfaces intersecting in an edge and forming an inverted V-shaped ridge having a crest which extends length- 'wise and substantially centrally of theline of seam and is disposed within the space between said toes,"thework-enga 'ng surfaces of said toes being incline to correspondwith the complemental work-engaging surface ortions of said ridge, trimming mechanism including a cutting device operating` close to said presser-foot and a ove said` ridge, and means for directing the cut edges into `abutting relation.

10. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechafnism` comprising laterally spaced feed-dog sections,` presser means including. spaced toes opposed tosaid feed-dog sections, a throat-plate having a substantially `flat surface adjacent the stitching point and formed in advance thereof with a ridge presenting oppositely inclined sides defining planes meeting in an apex extending in the direction of feed substantially centrally of the lineof seam and disposed above the `throat-plate and within t-lie space between said toes, trimming mechanism including knives adapted to operate on the fabric in advance ofthe stitch-forming mechanism at a point wherethe fabric is supported by said ridge, and means for directing the cut edges into abutting relation.

11. In a sewing machine, in combination, multiple needle seam-covering mechanism, a throat-plate having a flat work-supporting surface surrounding the stitchingpoint and a ridged work-supporting surface having angularly related flat sides intersecting in an edge in advance of the stitching point and above the level of said fiat work-supporting surface,4 feeding mechanism compris-4 in feed-dog sections disposed at opposite sic es of said ridged work-supporting surface, a presser-foot having a flat heel-portion and spaced toe-portions cooperating with said feed-dog sections and having their inner lower corners beveled to conform tothe fiat sides of said iidged work-supporting surface, and'trimming mechanism operating "above said ridged work-supporting surface and adaptedto trim off the upturned marginal portions of material passing between said toes, the heel-portion of the presserfoot operating to direct the cut edges into abutting relation.

ing a plurality of reciprocating needles and complemental loop-taking means, a presserbar, a presser-footfhaving spaced toes between which upturned'marginal portions of material are adapted to pass, trimming mechanism including an oscillatory blade operating at the frequency of reciprocation of the needles and adapted to trim off said upturned marginal portions ofmaterial, and an oscillating covering thread finger having a thread delivering eye moving back and forth across the line of seam in front of the needle at half the frequency of reciprocation of the latter and journaled concentrically with but independently of the presser-bar.

4. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a plurality of reciprocating needles and complemental loop-taking means, a presser-bar, a presser-foot having spaced toes between which upturned marginal portions of material are adapted .to pass, trimming mechanism including an oscillatory blade operating at the frequency of reciprocation of the needles and adapted to trim ofi' said up-v turned marginal portions of material, and a pair of oscillating covering thread-ngers journaled concentrically with the presserbar and having their lower end-p ortions curved to the same radius concentric with the presser-bar and disposed in horizontal planes, said fingers being formed with thread delivering eyes adaptedto pass backand-forth across the line of seam in front of the needles at half the frequency of reciprocation of the latter.

l5. In a sewing machine, in combination, a presser-foot having spaced toe-portions, presser-foot lifting means, trimming mechanism adapted to trim off upturned marginal portions of material passing into the space between said toe-portions, a trimming guide, and connections between said presser-foot lifter and said trimming guide, independent of said presser-foot, for lifting said guide.

16. In a sewing machine, in combination, a presser-bar, a slotted presser-foot secured thereto, trimming mechanism adapted to trim ofi1 upturned marginal portions of material passing into the slot of said presserfoot and a vertically movable trimming guide sustained by said presser-bar independently of said presser-foot.

1T. In a sewing machine, in combination, an over-hanging bracket-arm, a head sustained at the free end of said arm, a slot-ted presser-foot mounted in said head for rising and falling movements, a depending bracket secured to one side of said head, a ledgerblade mounted in said bracket for rising and falling movements, a trimming guide mounted in said bracket for rising and falling and lateral turning movements, and a trimmer-blade cooperating with said ledgerblade above the slot in said presser-foot to trim oif upturned marginal portions of the material in advance of the trimming guide.

18.- A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a springpressed presser-foot, and horizontally acting trimming means mounted for vertical adjustment to different operative levels independent of saidV presser-foot and operating upon the work in advance of the stitchforming mechanism.V

19. A sewing machine comprising, in combination7 covering-stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism, a work-support having a ridge disposed lengthwise and substantially centrally of the line of seam formation, spaced presser toes disposed over said ridge and dening a slot between which upturned marginal portions of` material are adapted to pass, trimming mechanism in advance of said stitch-forming mechanism and including a cutting device disposed directly over said ridge and operating to trim off the upturned marginal portions of material when supported by said ridge, and means for directing the trimmed edges into abutting relation.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

GEORGE S. GATCHELL.

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