US1405264A - Shoe-sewing machine - Google Patents

Description

F. E. BERTRAND SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 7, 1916. RENEWED JUNE 39.1921.

1,405,2 Patented Jan. 31, 1922 5 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

Invenfir M (5 W F. E. BERTRAND.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 1. I916- RENEWED JUNE 30,1921.

1 405 2 4. Patented Jan. 31,1922.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Invezziar wzw'c WAX F. E. BERTRAND.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 7. 191a.

RENEWED JUNE 30,1921.

Patented Jan. 31, 1922.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

F'. E. BERTRAND.

SHOE SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED APR. 7. 1916. RENEWED JUNE 30. 1.921.

Patented Jan. 31, 1922.

.5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

nveizfir awe M F. E. BER TRAND. SHOE SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED APR. 7. 191a. RENEWED JUNE 30.1921.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

r OFFICE.

rannnarc E. IBERTRAND, or LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, assreivoa, BY ivrnsNE lassre MENTS, T0 UNITED snon MACHINERY eonronarron', or imrnnson, NEW JER.

, sEY, A CORPORATION or NEW JERSEY.

snon-snwme tmennvn Specification of Letters Patent. I Patented Jan 31 1 2 Application'filed Apri17, 1916, Serial No. 89,560. Renewed June 30, 1921. Serial No. 481,705.

To all whom it may conccra: p

Be it known that I, FREDERIG E. BERTRAND, a citizen of the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Shoe-Sewihg Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it apper tains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to an improvement in shoe sewing machines and more particularly to that type of shoe sewing machines using a curved hook needle adapted for fair stitching mock welts and stitch-down shoes.

The object of the invention is to reorganize and improve the construction of shoe sewing machines in order to produce a more simple, compact and efficient machine especially adapted for high speed, and to this end the present invention consists of a shoe sewing machine provided with the constructions, arrangements and combinations of parts hereinafter described and particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings illustrat ing the preferred form of the invention, Figure 1 is a front elevation of a shoe sewing machine embodying the several features of the invention; Fig. 2 is a plan of the machine; Fig. 3 is a side elevation looking from the right; Fig. 4 is a detail of the take-up arm, auxiliary take-up and tension wheel; Fig. 5 is an enlarged elevation, partly in section, of the looper and thread finger aetuating means; Fig. 6 is a plan, partly in section, of the parts shown in Fig. 5; Fig. 7 is an enlarged elevation, partly in section, of the-presser foot andassocia'tedparts; Fig. 8 is a detail view of the work guide; Fig. 9 is a sectional view taken on the line 9.9 of Fig. 8; Fig. 10 is an enlarged plan-of the wax thread strippingdevice; Fig. 11 is a sectional elevation of the-same; and Fig. 12 is a side elevation of one of the stripping members. I

- The machine illustrated in the drawings is a curved needle shoe sewing machine particularly designed for sewing the out-turned upper to the sole of a stitch-clown shoe. --The' machine forms a chain stitch and is provided with a curved hook needle, a. thread finger to measure off a length of thread between the looper and the work, a looper to lay the thread in the hook of the needle, atake-up.

acting'to exert a'stitch setting strain on the thread while the needle is in the work, and to draw; thread from the supply, and withan auxiliary take-up and a tension device, the operatlon of these parts being the same as in chaln stitch shoe sewing machines provided w1th a stitch setting take-up as ordinarily constructed. During the'operation of the machine the work is intermittently clamped and released by a' work support and presser foot, and is fed betweensuccessive actu'ations .of the needle by the combined action oft-he work support, the presser foot and a work piercing and feeding awl'. In addition to. theseparts the machine is also provided with a stripping device for stripning wax from the thread as it emerges from the wax pot, with a work guide to engage the edge of the shoe sole, and with abrake which isioperated'automatically at the completion of the sewlng operation to stop the machine at a predetermined point in the cycle of operatlOIlS;

Referring to the drawings,-the curved-nee- (He 18 is carri'ed'by a needle segment 20.

which is mounted for oscillating movements on the hollow hub 22. of the needle guide which loosely embraces an extension 24 of theawl stud. The hollow hub of the needle guide is journaled in a bracket or web 26 projecting upwardly, forwardly and downwardly from the base of the machine. This web 26 formsa hollow-steam heated-chamber, the right hand plate-like side of which serves as a heating plate for conveying-heat to various parts of the machine. Theneedle is actuated by a needle lever 28 pivoted on a. stud 30 secured inthe upper-end of uprights 32 rising from the "rear" side of the base of themachine'. The needleQlever car ries a stud upon whichismounted a cam roll 34 engaged by a cam path in a cam 36 mountedon the cam shaft 38. On the forward end of the needle lever is' formed asegmental gear aOwhich meshes with a segmental'pin ion fornied: on the needle segment 20. The Y arrangement of these parts and thejshape of the cam pathare such that the needle is actuated in timed relation with'the other stitch forming members during the stitching oper-z ation. V i The needle guide 4-2 embraces the needle and affords a support therefor 1n. the usual manner. The needle guide is supported for piercing movements of the needle by a needle guide lever 14 fulorumed in an upward projection of the web 26. One arm of the needle guide lever carries a cam roll which is received in a cam path formed inthe side of the ca1n46 mounted on the cam shaft 38/ The free end of the other arm of the needle guide lever is provided with a segmental gear which meshes with a. segmental pinion 18 secured to or formed integral'with a stug 50 pivoted in the web 26. On an entension of the hub of the segmental pinion 4:8 is carried a segmental gear 52 which meshes with a segmental pinion formed on the hub 22 of the needle guide.

The thread finger 54L is pivoted 011 a pin 56 arranged verticallyin the web 26. The thread finger is actuated by a thread finger lever 58 fulcrumed on a support rising from the base of the machine. One end ofthe lever 58 carries'a cam roll which isengaged by a peripheral cam path formed in the cam 46. The other arm of the thread finger lever is connected with an arm60 extending rcarwardly from the hub 01 the thread finger by means of a link 62.

The looper G4: is provided with an eye through which the thread passes-and operates to loop the thread around the needle just above the barb thereof while the needle is at the limit of its downward movement. In order that the eye of the looper may be adjusted vertically and transversely relatively to the needle, the looper is provided with a stud 66. This stud, for purposes of adjustment, is received in a split collar on the outer end of an arm of a lever 68 pivoted on a crank pin '70 secured to or formed integral with a. shaft 7 2 vertically and obliquely arranged in bearings 74 and 76 formed on the web 26. The shaft 72 is provided on its upper end with a collar 7 8 which rests upon the upper side oi the bearing 74, and upon its lower end with a nut, which holds the shaft in operative position. The shaft 72 is actuated to impart a thread looping movement to the looper, and for this purpose is providedwith a spiral slot 80 of such length and formation that, when the pin 82 which engages the slot is caused to travel upwardly the, length of the slot, the shaft is turned counter-clockwise approximatelyone complete rotation; and when the pin 82 is caused to descend the length of the slot, the shaft is turned clockwise approximately one complete rotation. The up and down movements are imparted'to the pin by a lever'Sd of bellorank form pivoted on the machine framep On the'vertically arranged arm of the lever 84 is supported a cam roll 86 which is engaged by a cam path formed in the side oi the cam 36. The tree end of the horizontally arranged arm of the lever 84 is recessed axially and receives for axial movements therein the shank of a pin support 88 which loosely embraces the shaft 72. The threaded portion of the pin 82 is screwed into the front side of the pin support. The rear end of the looper lever 68 is loosely received for reciprocatory movements in a longitudinal recess in a Trshaped bearing 90 pivoted in a bracket 92 projecting laterally from the web 26. The above described construction is such that, when the shaft 72 through the actuation of the lever 84 is caused to rotate counter-clockwise, the thread eye of the looper is caused to describe an ellipse about the needle, as shown in dotted lines in Fig- 6. This movement or" the looper lays, the thread in the needle barb and takes place while the needle is at the limit of its downward stroke. After the needle has risen and the barb of the needle has sufficiently penetrated the worlgand before the awl is again actuated to, feedthe work, the looper performs its return movement. It is desirable that the looper should describe a complete ellipse rather than a partial one, although it is obvious that the latter would be suliicient for the purposeof laying thread in the needle barb. The amount of movement of the looper is controlled by the throw of the cam path by which the lever 84 is actuated.

The curved awl '96 operates as is usual in this type of shoe sewing machine, and is carried by an awl segment pivoted for oscillatory movements concentric with the work piercing movements of the needle, upon an awl stud 98 journaled in .airamework or feed carriage indicated generally at 100 mounted for sliding movements on a stud 102, one end of which is secured in a boss 104 on an upright rising from the machine base, andthe other end of which is supported in the web 26. The extension '24 of the awl stud 98 being loosely supported in the hollow needleguide hub 22 maintains the needle and awl in concentric relation and permits the axial movements oi the awl stud. The awl is actuated to pierce the work by a cam path formed on the side of the cam 106, through an awl lever 108 pivoted on the stud 110 fixed in the uprights 32. On the lor ward end of the awl lever is formed a segmental gear 112 which meshes with the segmental pinion 114 formed on the awl seg-, ment. After the awl has pierced thework and before. it is retracted therefrom, it is actuated to feed the work to the left, viewing Fig. 1, and for this purpose the framework or feed carriage 100 upon which the awl segment is mounted, is actuated by'a leveri116 mounted 011 a pin'118 rising vertically from the base of the machine. The rear end of the lever 116 carries a cam roll which engages a peripheral cam path in the cam 120.

The forward end of thelever 116, is provided with aslot 122. which is engaged'by a T011 124 mounted on a pin 126 theshanko-f which isreceived in a slotg128 formed in the lower portion of a downwardly extending bracket 130 of the feed carriage 100. The head of, theypin 126 is of somewhat larger diameter than the widthofthe slot 128, so

that'the pin maybe secured in adj usted'po- 'sition on the bracket130 by a nut screwed on the upper end of the pin. It will be observed by. an ,inspectionof Fig. 2 that when .the slidingfraine orfeed carriage 100 is to the'limit of its leftwardmovemenhthe axis of theislot 128 in-the bracket and the axis of the slot l22'in the lever 116 are in alignment. By means of this arrangement, when the nut by .whichjthe pin 126 is secured to the bracket 130 is loosened and the pinwith its roll is moved rearwardly or forwardly, thereby shortening or lengthening respectively the feeding stroke, the leftward limit of movement of thefeed carriage is not -disturbed;fso that, when the awl is at the limit of its leftward movement, it is always .in alignment with'the needle. The feed carriage is held against rotativemovement on atO automatically clamp the work on the .work support 136 previous to the work piercing operation of the awl and the feed ;ing movementof the awl and work-t0 the left, and is cam actuated to release the work to permit the parts connected with the feed carriage to return totheir normal position. The upper end ofthe presser foot. rod is loosely received in a hole in an arm 148 secured to the outer endoftherod 134, and the lowerend of the presser :t'oot rod is journaled in be'arings150 and 152 in a bracket 154,secured ,to the machine frame. The outer: end of the rod 134 isv supported by the bracket 154,-.against which the hub of the arm 148 is" clamped by a nut 156. The presserioot is operatively connected with the presser foot rodbymeansof a segmental gear 158 formed on the hub142 and projectingrearwardly therefrom. The gear 158 meshes with a rack 160which1-is formed on the presser foot rod, and-which reciprocates vertically in guides formed inthe bracket 154-. The presser foot is actuated to clamp the work against the'work support- 136 by means of a compression. spring-162 surrounding the upper end of the presser foot rod. One end of the spring 162 is received in a recess iii-the top of the'arm 148, and

the other end of the spring is received in a recess in a collar 164 on the upper end of the presserafoot rod, the collar being-held in position by check nuts 166 threaded on i the end of thepresser foot rod.. By means of. these check nutsthe tension of the-spring 162 may be regulatechand thereby the v"force Y with which the presser ifoot clamps the work on the work support may be varied as desired. When, the presser foot-1 has been actuated to clamp the'work on the work support, it is locked in-this position'by a lock mechanism, so that any upwardly directed: force tending to :lift "the: presser "foot against a positive look. "This lock' mechanism comprises a lock lever 168 consisting of'two arms fulcru med at theiriorward ends on a' pivot 170 fixed in the bracket 154. Located rearwardly of the pivot170 is ,a lock roll 172 pivotedona pin fixedin the. arms of the lever 168. When the rearward enduof acts, not against a yielding .spring,- but the lock lever is raised. the lock r0111? 2 is forced against the periphery of 'a locknut 174 provided with a thread'ofa steep pitch which is received on a. correspondingly pitched thread on the presser foot rod.

When the lockroll is jammed against the periphery of the lock nut,the presser .foot

rod is held against vertical movements, but

when thelock roll is moved out of contact with the lock nut, the presser foot rod may be raised or'lowered. D'uringthe vertical direction the/lock nut rotates, the pitchof imovements'of the presserl foot rod in either I the screw permitting relativehmovementlbetween the lock nut and thepres ser foot rod by either anupward or downwardpressure on the rod. The" rearward end of the lock lever .168 is moved upwardly to force the lock roll against the lock nut byfimeans of a presser foot lever 176pivoted at. itsrearward end on thestud 110. -T=he presser'ioot lever 17 6 carries a cam roll which engages a' cam path formed in the-side of the-earn 106. The forward endof the lever 7176- is pivoted to atwo armedxlin-k l'z' 8, the lower arm of which is pivotedito the rearward end of the lock lever 168, and =theuppei-- arm of which is pivoted to a clamping lever .180

fulcrumed at its forward end'in ears formed on a sleeve. 182 which loosely embraces the presser foot rod. A spring interposed between the bottomend of the'sleeve182 and the bearing 150 tends to maintain the sleeve in raised position. 'Thejforward end of the clamping lever:180-is provided with a pinch cam, which is adaptedat certain times dur;

ing the operation ofthe mach-ineg to engage thepresser foot rod and lock the sleeve 182 to it. While the presserl ifo.ot 'is-in operative position, clamping the work on the work with the lock nut.

support, the cam of the clamping lever .7 is

out of engagement with .the presser foot rod, and the lock roll is in engagement with the lock nut. After the feeding movement of the feed carriageand the parts supported thereon is completed so that theawl is in alignment with the needle and the needle has penetrated the work, the' presser foot leverl76 isactuated by its cam path so that its forward end is moved downward to disengage. the. lock roll 172 from the lock nut 174' and to press the cam of the clamping lever 180 against the presser foot rod. The

continued downward movement of the forward end of the presser foot lever causes the presser foot rodto be carried downwardly, thereby hftlngthe presser foot out of engagement with' the work on the work support. .The movementof the presser. foot awayfromithework is such that! the work support. and the presser foot may be moved relatively to the work while it is heldby the needle, without rubbing the work injuriouslyor catching on a thick place so as thereby to exert a strain on the needle. Atter the stitch forming operationis completedxand the shoe isto be removed from the work support, the presser foot lever 176 is insuch position that the 'clamping'lever 180 isneither .in engagement with the presser foot rod nor the lockroll in engagement Consequently'when the operator presses .a treadle connected with the bottom end of the presser foot'rod 146, the rod will descend andthe presser'foot be lifted from the work. If the presser 'foot rod treadle is released whileithere is no work on the work support and the spring 162 is permitted to actuate the presser foot and move'it toward the work support, a

sleeve '18& loosely received on the presser foot rod and supported thereon by nuts 180 will be brought into engagement with an adjustablestop 5188 (see Fig. l) by the upward movement of the rod 1&6 and thereby prevent the 'pre'sser foot from coming into contact with the work support. The construction and arrangementof the presser foot and its-associated parts are such that work of different thicknesses may be clamped on the work support and the variaagoaeee nected to a treadle lor the purpose of permittingtheoperator to'move the "work guide rearwardly from its forward position,

which normally determines the width of the seam, so as to accommodate a'vam-p which" projects outwardly beyond the edge of the sole to which the vamp islbeingj attached. The work gulde is. held in operative position by means of. a plunger. QOO lIOHSGd III a chamber 202 formed on a ring 204pinned to the stud 102 between" the sides of thebifurcated hub 19% of the worki guidearm 192.

A compression .spring tends to force the plunger 200. against a shoulder formed on the rearwardly projecting .arm 196. A screw 206 threadedinthe closedzendlotthe chamber 202 limits theamount of'rearward throw of the workguidebyengagingr the head of the plunger 200. "llhis'spring isiof suflicient tension toimaintain thework guide in operative position whilethe operator holdsithe work against it. Thewvidth of the margin formed during the stitching operation is regulated by regulating .a screw '208 received in a 'threaded'hole in. thesp'lit end of an arm 210 extending upwardly from the ring 204. The-"screw 212 clamps the regulating screw in adjusted aosition.

The take-up comprises atake-up thread truck 214C carriedonitheouter end ofia take- 2 L up arm 21610; a bellcrank lever; the hub:2l8 of which is fulcrumed on a hollow stud 220 ournaled in bearings formed in. arms' projecting forwardlylfronra bracket secured to the machine'irame. The other arm 222 of the bellcrank lever is connected byalink .224 to the slottedlower end of an'arm 226 of a take-uplever of bell-crank form pivoted at 228 on an upright risingfrom' the base of the machine. The other arm of thetake-up lever eutends rearwardlyand'oarries a cam roll which engages a cam path formed in the outer side of the cam 120; "As'the thread is drawn from the wax pot 232l it passes over t -011.234, thence around .a large thread truck or tensionwheel. 236 mounted on a shaft 238 supported in the hollow stud 220,

and thence over' two small pulleys or thread trucks 240 and 242, which formpart of the auxiliary takeup, to'thetruck2l4, from whence it passes under'the truck 244 to the looper. The auxiliary take-up comprises a lever 2416' pivoted at 24-8 on the machine frame, and on one end; supports-a pinon which the thread truck 242 is pivoted. The other end of the auxiliary take-up lever receives one endotai lightly tensioned spring 250, the other endof which is secured to the machine frame. A secondary compression spring 252, more heavily tensioned than the spring 250, is received in a chamber 254 formed on the machine frame,one end'of the spring 252 pressing against a shoulder of a plunger 256 adapted to reciprocate in the chamber 254 and the other end of the spring taking against a nut258 threaded in the open end of the chamber. The nut 258 affords means by which the tension of the spring 252 may be regulated. The movement of the auxiliary take-up lever 246 under the force of the spring 250 is limited by a stop pin 260.

It will be observed from an inspection of Figs. 1 and 3 that the tension Wheel 236 and the thread trucks of the take-up and auxiliary take-up as well as the truck 244 are located and operate in close proximity to the heating plate forming the right hand wall or surface of the heated chamber or web 26. By means of this construction the radiation from the heating plate keeps the waxed thread as it passes over the trucks on its way to the needle in a pliable and easily workable condition.

In addition to the tension wheel 236, the tension mechanism comprises a brake strap 262 which makes one complete turn around a drum 264 fast on theouter end of the shaft 288, on the other end of which the tension wheel 236 is fixed. One end of the brake strap is secured to the frame of the machine, and the other end is secured to an eye of a bolt 266 loosely received in a hole in a tension lever 268 pivoted on the machine frame. 'By arranging the brake strap so that it makes one complete turn around the drum 264, the lines of stress upon its ends act in opposite directions. The free end of the tension lever 268 is bifurcated and loosely embraces the presser foot rod 146.

a projection upon the base of the machine,

holds the free end of the lever 268, during the stitch forming operation, against a stop bolt 272 passed through'a threaded hole in a lug extending laterally from the machine frame. The operative position of the free end of the lever 268 may be adjusted vertically by means of the bolt 272. A compression spring 274 encircling the upper end of the bolt 266 and secured in position thereon by a nut, by which the tension of the spring 274 may be regulated, tends to maintain the bolt 266 in raised position and imposes on the brake strap thestrainrequisite-to maintain the required amount of tension on the thread. It will be observed by the construction and arrangement of the parts of the tension device that the pull exerted upon the brake strap is such that no cramping strain is imposed upon the shaft 238 because the strain is evenly distributed over the periphery of the pulley 264, and'yet an effective clamping strain or ripping action is imposed upon the shaft 238'and the tension wheel 236. The relative arrangement of the tension lever 268 and the presser foot rod is such that, when the operator presses the treadle connected with the presser foot rod,

thereby depressing it against the upward action of the spring 270 and relieving the tension strap of the strain of the spring 27 4 to permit the operator to remove the shoe with the thread attached to it from the machine. The space between the nuts 27 6 and the upper side of the free end of the tension lever'is such that, when at the completion of each feeding movement the presser foot rod descends and the presser foot is raised to permit the return of the feed carriage, the nuts do not come into contact with the ten sion lever, and, consequently, the uniform tension exerted by the tension device is not disturbed, r

c As the thread is drawn from the Waxipot 282 it passes through a stripping device consisting of two triangularly'sh'aped springlike stripping members 280 and 282, which are so arranged when in operative position that their inner corners interlock, as shown in Fig. 10. The space enclosed between the interlocking corners of the stripping mem bers and through which thefthread passes may be regulated to leave any desired amount of wax on the thread, by means of an adjustment block 284 pressed against the stripping members by means of a screw 286 received in a boss formed on the housing or chamber 288 in which-the stripping members are located; The forward wall of the housing or chamber 288 projects inwardly and "is V-shaped in cross-section, one side of each stripping member restingagain'st'one side of this V-shaped wall respectively. When the corners of the stripping-"member's in operative position become worn,'two fresh corners may be used in their'place, and when I these in their turn become worn, the two remaining corners'may beused. It is thus seen that the present construction of stripper is highly efficient and economical and may be employed in ing machine. I I

During the operation of the machine the operator keeps his foot upon a stopping and starting treadle to which is connected the lower end of a rod 290.- Upon the completion of the stitching operation the operator releases the treadle, and thereby disconnects the m'achine from its source of powrfin the usual manner" and at the same time allows the rod 290 to move upwardly. Upo'nthe upper end of the rod 290 are pivoted the .two arms or links 292 and294 ofatoggle'joint. The toggle joint arm 292 is pivotally connected with a downwardly extending arm 296 of a bellcrank lever 298 pivoted on the stud 1 10. The free end of. the: upwardly extending. arm 300 of this .bellcrank lever any type of shoe sewcarries a cam roll which engages a cam path formed in the side of the cam 46. The toggle ointarm 294 is pivotally connected with the lower end of a downwardly extending arm 302 of-a bellcrank lever 301- also pivoted on the stud 110. Between the sides of the bifurcated free end of an upwardly extending arm 3060f the bellcranklever 30 1 is mounted a brake shoe 308. A slot formed in a rearwardly extending part of the brake shoe engages a belt 310 passing through holes in the bifurcated end of the arm 306. The brake shoe is provided with a set screw 312, by which it may be adjusted relatively to the camel-.6. The bolt 310 secures the shoe inadjusted position. is open, as shown in Fig. 3, the'actuations imparted to the bellcrank lever 298 by the cam 46 are not effective to brii'ig the brake shoe against the periphery of the cam But when theoperator releases the treadle and the upward movement of-the rod 290.

under-the actuation ofits spring closes the toggleejoint, that is, brings the arms 292 and. 294 into longitudinal alignment, the rearward oscillatory movement of the arm 296 of the bellcrank lever 298 causes the brake shoe to be clamped against the periphery of the'cam 46. This preliminary en,- gagement of the brake shoe with the cam is not sufiicient to stop the machine, but as the cam shaft continues to rotate, the needle is brought to the limit of its upward stroke and the awl'is brought to the limit of its downward stroke; and by the time the needle and awl reach these positions, the cam roll on the arm 300 is engaged by the cam path at its least radial. distance, whereupon the brake shoe is caused to exert a powerful gripon the periphery of the cam 16 and thereby stop the machine.

7 The operation of: the machine has been indicated in the description alreadygiven of the construction and arrangement of its variousparts and: will be-readily understood by those skilled in the art without a separate description thereof.

The thread tension. devices, the looper mechanism and the thread waxing devices disclosed ,in the present application form the ,subject matter of divisional applications filed NovemberQ-l, 1919, Serial Nos. 389,649, 339,650, and: 339,651.

The nature and scope of the present invention having been indicated and machine .ing means,.a worksupport; a presser foot,

presser foot rod yieldingly actuated in one direction and positively actuated 1n the other direction, connections: between ;.the presser While the toggle joint foot and the presser foot rod permitting relative transverse movement between them, and connections between the work-feeding means and thepresser foot.

2. A shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a work support and a presser foot arranged to receive the projecting edge of the outsole of a shoe between them, a needle, an awl, means for moving the awl, the presser foot and the work support to feed the work, and means to separate theiwork support and the presser foot and to return them and the awl while the needle is in the work.

3. Ashoesewing machine having, in c0mbination, a work support and a'presser foot arranged to receive the projecting edge of the outsole of a shoe between them, a needle, an awl, means for moving the awl, the presser foot and the'work; support to feed the work, and means to return the work support, presser foot and the awltogether, while theneedle is in the work.-

1. A shoe sewing machine, having, incombination, stitch forming devices, a work sup port, a presser foot, a rod, actuatingconnec tions between the rod and presser foot, a spring'acting on the rod to force the presser foot against. the work, and mechanism for locking the presser foot in position compris ing a nut threaded on the rod, and means for locking the nut against rotation.

5. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser feet, a rod, actuating connections between the rod and the presser foot, a spring. acting on the rod to force the presser foot against the work, means for moving the rod to raise-the presser foot from the work, and mechanism for locking the presser. foot in position on the work comprising 121 nut threaded. on the rod, and means for locking the nut against rotation...

6. A. shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work. support, apresserfoot, a presser foot lever on which the presser, foot is mounted, arod, a spring actingon the rod to force the presser foot against the work, a locking deviceengaging the rod, and means for actuating the locking device to lock and unlockthe presser foot during each cycle of operations oftthe machine.

7. A shoe sewinminachine, having,:in combination, stitch forming devices a work support, a presser foot, a presser foot levcron which the presser foot is mounted,;a,rod; ac-

8. .AshOe sewing machine, having, in :com-

bination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot, a presser foot lever on which the presser foot is mounted, a rod, actuating connections between the rod and the presser foot lever, a spring acting on the rod. to force the presser foot against the work, a presser foot lifting lever provided with a pinch cam engaging the rod, means for actuating said lever, and means for locking the rod against movement while the presser foot is in contact with the work.

9. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot, a presser foot lever on which the presser foot is mounted, a rod, ac tuating connections between the rod and the presser foot lever, a spring acting on the rod to force the presser foot against the work, a presser foot lifting lever provided with a pinch cam engaging the rod, and a presser foot locking device comprising a nut threaded on the rod, and means for locking the nut against rotation.

10. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming devices, a work support, a presser foot, a rod, actuating connections between the rod and the presser foot, a spring acting on the rod to force the presser foot against the work, a presser foot lifting device engaging the rod, a locking device engaging the rod, an actuating lever and connections between said lever and the lifting and locking devices for actuating said devices to unlock and lift the presser foot when the lever moves in one direction, and to release and then look the presser foot the rod to force the presser foot against the V work.

12. A shoe sewing machine, having, in comblnatlon, a work support and a presser foot aranged to receive the projecting edge of the outsole of a shoe between them, a needle andv an awl, said work support, presser foot and awl being movable in the line of feed.

13. A shoe sewing machine, having, in

combination, a work support and a presser foot arranged to-receive the projecting edge of the outsole of a shoe between them, a needle and an awl one of which acts as the feeding instrument, said work support and presser foot being movable in the line of feed with the feeding instrument while said instrument is in the work.

14.. A shoe sewing machine, having, in combination, a work support and a presser foot arranged to, receive the projectingedge of the outsole of a shoe between them, a needle, an awl and a feed slide, said work support, presser foot and awl being mounted onthe feed slide.

FREDERIG E. BEBTRAND.

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