US1362272A - Machine-embroidered garment - Google Patents

Description

A.STERN. MACHINE EMBROIDERED GARMENT- APPLICATION FILED FEB. 27, 1920. I 1,362,272. Patented Dec. 14,1920.

2 SHEETS-SHEET l.

ATTORNEY A. STERN.

MACHINE EMBROIDERED GARMENT.

, APPLICATION FILED FEE-27, I920. V 1 362 272. Patented Dec. 14, 1920.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

ATTORNEY lllllilllllll'l 'illlli PATENT OFFICE.

ARNOLD STERN, OF JAMAICA HEIGHTS, NEW YORK.

MACHINE-EMBROIDERED GARIVIEN '1.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Dec. 14, 1920.

Application filed February 27, 1920. Serial No. 361,812.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I ARNOLD STERN, a citizen of the United tates, and resident of Jamaica Heights, in the county of Queens and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Machine-Embroidered Garments, of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to embroidered garments, and my improvement is directed particularly to a new method of producing such articles by machine applied embroidery.

The main object of my invention is to so economize in the time occupied'in perform ing the embroidery operation as to effect a substantial saving in the expense involved in the production of an embroidered gar ment, and a further object is to limit the employment of embroidery threads, in so far as the garment production is concerned, to those portions of the material which are to define the garment outlines or boundaries, such for example as the sleeve edgings and the neck edgings, the subsequent shaping and seam stitching necessary in making up a garment formingno part of this invention.

Still further, my invention comprehends the use of embroidery machines such as are known in the trade as shuttle machines, wherein a horizontally arranged needle bar, carrying a plurality of needles, each witha separate thread, moves said needles simultaneously to'and from the work material, and wherein the work material is carried by a frame that is movable in a vertical plane in front of the needles, being controlled through a'pantograph that is operable by a workman while passing a stylusover a pat tern, to thus permit the needles, with associated shuttle mechanism, to reproduce such pattern in embroidery upon the material.

On account of the large size of the shuttle machine, as it is called, the fabric frame thereof, whlch comprises a spanned pair of horizontal rollers, may present an extensive area of fabric to the needles, which are thus enabled, in a certain arbitrarily set and spaced arrangement of said needles in the needle bar, to execute embroidery repeats; and, for the purpose of my invention, these repeats are caused to occur in such positions upon the work material as to enablethe latter to be subsequently divided up into a number of garments by using the embroideryas individual garment outlines, the embroldery also being utilized as ornamental boundaries of these outlines.

The garment material while in the machine is embroidered in repeats of vertical scallops or edges, two needles suitably spaced for each garment to be produced, executing slmultaneously the same repeat from the pattern, to thus embroider the opposite sleeve edgmgs for a garment, and corresponding pairs of needles on the same bar also executing the same repeat for opposite sleeve edgmgs of other garments upon the same plece of dress material at the same time.

In another operation the neck circle is executed in a similar manner by a single needle for each garment, and simultaneously a number of needles, suitably spaced apart along the needle bar execute the same repeat to produce neck embroidery edgings along the width of the portion of garment material presented to their operation in the machine.

The portion of material which is inclosed within or bounded by these neck edgings is subsequently removed, it being cut away in each instance, using the embroidery as an outline, thus providing the neck opening in the garment structure.

Upon removal of the material from the machine the individual garment portions thereof are separated vertically along the lines of the sleeve edgings, and then, in the further process of garment manufacture, each separated piece of material is folded lengthwise, the fold occurring in a transverse line centrally of the neck repeat and sleeve edging repeats, so that the garment in process of formation may be shaped at the sides and there sewn with its opposite vertical side seams and its opposite, under side sleeve seams.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a front elevation of a portion of an embroidery machine, with the needle bar removed, showing the garment material in its movable frame, and the pantograph system whereby said frame is manipulated during the embroiderin g operation.

Fig. 2 is a horizontal sectional view taken through the garment material in its frame and also showing the needle bar with needles set therein for producing one portion embroidery repeat upon the material.

Fig. 3 is a similar view to Figo 12, but

In carrying out my invention I employ an embroidering machine of the. kind known as a shuttle machine, of which such parts as are to be referred to herein are illustrated.

Thus the machine frameis indicated at 1., in which is mounted a needle bar 2, said bar serving as a holder for needles 3, 3, that are disposed horizontally in order that they mayv attack the work material in the usual horizontal reciprocatory movement of the bar.

The .work material to be embroideredconsists of a strip of fabric, as 4, spanned vertically between two parallel rollers or bars, as 5, 5, which, as forming part of a frame to support said work material., is movable in a vertical plane by means of an engaging pantograph, as 6, the operating means for said pantograph being a stylus 7 that is grasped and manipulated by the workman, in tracing over a relatively large pattern, (not shown), so that the movement reduction, for which the pantograph is responsible, will permit a needle to execute in embroidery upon the work material a design representing a desired number of quarter repeats within the radius of action in the vertical plane through which the frame supporting the Work material is movable.

I In Fig. l the work'material 4 shows, at 8, a circle of embroidery which is repeated in a horizontal line or zone ,on said material, said repeats having been produced by the simultaneous operation of the needles 3, which have been set, singly, at predetermined intervals, all along the length of the machine; although, in the broken away views of the machine illustrated, some only of said needles are shown.

"The circles 8 each represent the outline of a neck opening for a garment to be formed, and said circles are spaced a sufiicient distance apart sothat uponsevering the ma- 'rial as at the dotted lines 9, each circle will occupy an intermediate central position upon an individual severed unit of material.

, lVhile the machine is operating with' the needles 3 i'n'their stated set positions for producing the neck repeats aforesaid, all

other needles in the needle bar are with drawmto be thus inoperative.

Either before, or after-the operation of the machine with the needles 3 in set position. other embroidery repeats are applied to the same garment material, for the production of the lines of embroidery edging such as are-indicated at 10 on Figs. 1 andd,

these} lines of embroidery constituting the respective side boundary outlines of the garment at the sleeve portions thereof, and being located respectively equal distances apart from a neck circle repeat, at opposite sides thereof.

F or the production of these embroidery repeats 10 the needles 3 are set in the appropriate positions indicated in Fig. 3, and at this time the needles 3 are withdrawn, to be out of service.

It will be noted that the needles 3 are. arranged in pairs whereof each pair is spaced to apply repeats upon the material for the opposite side boundary outlines thereofleach successive pair of said needles serving the same purpose in the production of succeeding garments, but all of said needles 3 operating simultaneously in thus applying the repeats. 7

It will also be noted that the conformations of all of the repeats 10 are alike, this being a function of the several needles 3? working at the same time.

While, for a scallop design such as that shown at 10, the curves of the sleeve edging repeats at opposite sides of a garment are thus in relative parallelism or symmetry, and customarily they would be in asymmetry in conventional practice, the difference in effect is actually inappreciable and is equally pleasing. Moreover, this feature in particular constitutes an improvement over Louis Tuttmans earlier application, Serial No. 264,032, filed November 25, 1918, wherein asymmetrical boundary outline repeats were applied to the opposite sides of a garment by the use of two sets of needles operating at different times.

' One of these sets of needles produced in one operation symmetrical repeats nearly centrally through each of the neck and sleeve repeat circles in the material on the machine, and then, in a subsequent operation, another set of needles, or a re-setting of the same needles was used to form a second series of repeats, also nearly cen trally through eachof theneck and sleeve circles, the repeats of said second series being symmetrical with each other but asymmetrical with the repeats of the first series.

In the present application method asaving is; eflected in that one operationonly is needed to produce all of the sleeve edging repeats, as will be obvious from the 'foregoing explanation, this saving being so con: siderable that by my new method the sleeve edging repeats are applied to the garment material in one half the time occupied by the formermethod, because one embroidering operation onlyis now necessary, where formerly two separate operations had to be performed.

. The repeatslO each have an equal length i formed by severing the garment portions of the material, when embroidered, at about the dotted lines 9, then in trimming about the repeat 10 outlines, also the neck repeat 8 outlines, shaping each garment, and

finally in folding the garment material lengthwise, transversely of the repeats, preparatory to seaming up the garment sides.

I claim 1. The method of performing machine embroidery for garment production, which consists in setting two needles in the needle bar of a shuttle machine, in spaced relation, and in position for simultaneously embroidering respectively at separated locations upon a work piece, to define the opposite side boundaries of a garment, and in moving the work piece for the embroidering thereon of the vsame repeat by each needle.

2. The method of performing machine embroidery for garment production, which consists in setting a needle in the needle bar of a shuttle machine for embroidering a neck outline and moving the work piece while embroidering thereon said neck outline, and, for a separate operation, in setting two needles in said needle bar, in spaced relation, and in position for simultaneously embroidering respectively at separated locations upon the work piece, to define the opposite side boundaries of the garment, and in moving the work piece for the embroidering thereon of the same repeat by each needle.

8. The method of performing machine embroidery for garment production, which consists in setting a number of pairs of needles in the needle bar of a shuttle machine, the needles of each pair being spaced equal distances apart, and said pairs of needles also being spaced equal distances apart, for simultaneously embroidering respectively in series of locations upon a work piece to define the opposite side boundaries for a plurality of garments, and in moving the work piece for the embroidering thereon of the same repeat by all the needles.

4:. The method of performing machine embroidery for garment production which consists in setting a number of needles equal spaces apart in the needle bar of a shuttle machine for simultaneously embroidering each a separate neck outline on a work piece, and moving the work piece while embroidering thereon said neck outlines; and, for a separate operation, in setting a number of pairs of needles in. said needle bar, the needles of each pair having equal spaced relation, and the pairs of needles also having equal spaced relation, for simultaneously embroidering by all said pairs of needles respectively at separated locations upon the work piece, to define the side boundaries of a plurality of garments, and in moving the work piece for the embroidering thereon of the same repeat by each needle.

5. The new article of manufacture which consists of garment material bearing ma chine embroidered designs spaced apart thereon, said designs including a neck outline and sleeve outline repeats, the latter positioned equal distances at each side of said neck outline, and all of said designs serving respectively as ornamental boundaries of those outlines.

Signed at Jamaica, in the county of Queens and State of New York, this 21st day of February, A. D. 1920.

ARNOLD STERN.

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