US1336784A

US1336784A - Shoe and method of making the same

Info

Publication number: US1336784A
Application number: US113210A
Authority: US
Inventors: James F Marshall
Original assignee: Dunn & Mccarthy
Current assignee: Dunn & Mccarthy
Priority date: 1916-08-05
Filing date: 1916-08-05
Publication date: 1920-04-13
Anticipated expiration: 1937-04-13

Description

l. F. MARSHALL.

SHOE AND METHOD 0F MAKING THE SAME. APPLICATION FILED AuG.5,1916.

1,336,784. Patent-edm. 13,1920.

' not always assume the intended UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JAMES F. MARSHALL, OF AUBURN, NEVI YORK, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO DUNN &

McCARTI-IY, OF BINGHAMTN', NEVI' YORK,

A CORPORATION OF NEW,T YORK.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Apr. 13, 1920.

Application filed August 5, 1916. Serial No. 113,210.

To all whom z'zf may concern.'

Be it known that I, JAMES F. MARSHALL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Auburn, in the county of Cayuga and State of New York, havel invented new and useful Improvements in Shoes and Methods of Making the Same, of which the following is a specification. 1 y

This invention relates to boots and shoes that have covered heels, and particularly to the method of attaching and covering the heels.

rThe usual method of boots and shoes with covered heels, usually French heels, is as follows. The heels are made by a manufacturer other than the manufacturer of the shoe, and the covers of leather, satin, celluloid, or other thin sheet material, are attached to the heels by the heel manu-facturer. The shoe manufacturer, before making requisition upon the heel manufacturer for covered heels, has to providing ladies estimate the shapes and sizes of the heelseat portions of the shoes that he expects to make, and the heel manufacturer shapes the heels accordingly, but in the course of making the shoes the heel-seat portions do shapes. Variations in this respect are brought about by variations in the thickness of the counter stiffeners, in the thickness of the upperleather, and 'by non-uniformA workmanship in lasting the shoes. Inasmuch as the shape of the heel is predetermined, and the shape of the heel-seat portion of the shoe cannot always be predetermined, the latter has to be fitted to the heel in order to produce a satisfactory' finished shoe.v The operation of fitting the shoe to the heel is attended by much difficulty and annoyance and in some cases requires much extra time.

The body or blank of a covered heel is usually made of a single piece of wood, the cover is fitted smoothly to its upright surface, and the upper marginal portion of the cover is turned in upon the heel-seat portion of the heel-blank, which has to be dishedor concaved to a considerable degree to receive the heel-seat portion ofthe outsole so that the upper part of the heelcover andthe lower part of the shoe upper will meet in substantially contiguous relation and not expose the edge of the heelseat portionof the outsole. Furthermore, the marginal portion of the heel-seat portion of the outsole has to be trimmed to a feather edge to permit such meeting of the heel-cover and upper. Such trimming of the heel-seat portion of the outsole requires great care and considerable time, because the bottom surface thereof has to be fitted accurately to the concavity in the top of the heel, for if the outsole is not accurately fitted to the heel the latter will not ble rigidly held when it is attached to the s oe.

My present improved method of making a shoe of the character stated enables the shoe manufacturer to attach an uncovered heel-blank in the rough to a lasted shoe, to shape the heel-blank to conform to the heelseat portion of the shoe, and to attach the heel-cover to the attached heel-blank. The shoe manufacturer is relieved ofthe necessity of trimming the marginal portion of the heel-seat portion of the outsole to a feather edge, because the upper marginal portion of the heel-cover may be tucked into the `crevice between the pulled over portion of the upper and the marginal portion of the outsole. The heel cover is thus utilized to cover the edge of the heel-seat portion of the outsole in addition to covering the heel-blank.

My present improved method reverses the condition of making shoes that have covered heels, in the following respect, to wit,-the heel-blank istrimmed to conform to the 'predetermined shape of the shoe, whereas Vaccording to the method now prevailing the shoe has to be made to conform tothe predetermined shape of the covered heel. This improved method saves much time in the'l manufacture of the shoes, dispenses with the necessity of so much care as formerly in fitting one to the other, reduces the cost of the heels, permits the use of heel-blanks` made of lifts of leather, leatherboard, or other material than wood, and enables the counter portion of the iinished shoe to retain the shape imparted to it'by the last. I do not mean to have it understood that my present invention requires aheel-blankmade of lifts of leather, leatherboard or otherl material than wood, for, as a matter of fact, it may be practised with a wood heel-blank, although it would be moreeconomical to use blanks made of such lifts instead of blanks made of wood. The heel-blanks may be attached in the rough,

trimmed while attached, and then covered, regardless of the material of which they are made.

Of the accompanying drawings:

Figure 1 represents a side elevation of a boot provided with a covered heel in accordance with the present invention.

Fig. 2 represents a vertical section, on a larger scale, of the structure intersected by line 2-2 of Fig. 1. i

Fig. 3 represents a vertical section similar to Fig. 2, but showing the shoe in an incomplete condition. ln this figure a heelblank in the rough and composed of a plurality of lifts is attached to a lasted shoe and is ready to be trimmed to conform to the shoe preparatory to having the heelcover attached to it. Y

VFiguif represents a face view of a heelcover of sheet material.

The same' referenceV characters indicate the same parts wherever they occur.

In practising my present improved method the upper 10 and insole'11 would be lasted as usual, which operation would include fastening the pulled-over marginal portion 12 of the upper to the heel-seat portion The leading ends of these tacks would be turned back and clenched, as'shown, by the usual metal plate with which the heel-seat portion of a last is usually provided. have not attempted to illustrate in detail the component parts of the upper, such as the upper proper, the counter stiffener, and the lining, but it will be understood that these elements conjointly constitute the upper that is indicated'at 10 in Figs. 2 and 3.

After the upper and insole have been lasted as hereinbefore explained, the neXt operationV would be attaching the outsole 14. The heel-seat portion of the outsole is indicated at 15 in Figs. 2 and 3, and it may be observed, particularly in Fig. 2, which represents the finished shoe, that the marginal portion of the outsole is not trimmed to a feather edge but is of the same thickness as the middle portion. My present method does not call for any departure Vfrom the usual method of attaching the outsole excepting, possibly,` setting the heelseat nails 16` a little farther in from the edge of the sole than the distancey that might otherwise be considered desirable. The reason for setting the heel-seat nails in from the edge is to leave the marginal portion of the outsole sufficiently free to be pried away slightly fromk the pulled-over portion ofthe upper to permit tucking in the upper marginal portion of, the heel cover as hereinafter explained.v

When the outsole Vhas been attached, a heel-blank 17 in the rough may be attached. So far as the fundamental principle of the present method is concerned, it would not of the insole by lasting tacks 13.V

Vwry

matter whether the heel-blank were made of a single piece of wood or made of a plurality of lifts of other material, but I have shown a heel-blank of the latter form to show as far as possible all the advantages of this method. The heel-nails are represented by dotted lines in Fig. 3 and are indicated at 1S. These nails hold the lifts together and are driven through the outsole and insole to attach the heel-blank to the lasted shoe. Although it is customary to support the lasted shoe in an inverted position throughout the operations of lasting, sole laying and heel attaching, I have not attempted to show such position, as it would tend to confuse the "observer in view of the other figures of drawing. iVhen the heel-blank has been attached as shown by Fig.` 3 it may be trimmedto the desired shape and scoured, and, inthe course of the trimming operation, the edge of the outsole would also be trimmed, with the advantage that the heel-*blank and the edge of thev outsole can be trimmed to conform to the outline of the lasted shoe.

VAssuming that the attached heel-blank has been trimmed and is Vready to receive a heel-cover, the operation of attaching the latter would be the next step. Fig. 4 illustrates a heel-cover of sheet lmaterial in a flat condition, but shaped as to outline according to the size and style of heel that it is to cover. One or both confronting surfaces of the trimmed heel-blankr and Yheelcover would be coated with'suitable adhesive substance such as cement, and then the heel-cover would be fitted to the upright surface of the heel-blank so that the curved marginal portion 21 would be in position to be tucked into the crevice between the outsole and upper, as shown by Fig. 2. It would not matter, so far as the principle of this method is concerned, whether the heelcover were fitted tothe upright surface of the heel before the marginal `portion 21 is tucked in, or vice versa, the order of performing these two details being optional with the Shoemaker. VHaving fitted the cover 20 to the heel-blank and having tucked in the marginal portion 21 as eX- plained, the next step would be to turn in and fasten, by cement or otherwise, the marginal portion 224 of the heel-.cover so that the latter marginal portion' would octhe position shown by Fig. 2. The marginal portions'23 would be turned in against the breast of the heel-blank and would be securedv to the latter by cement, and then a breast facing 24, that may be a split portion of the outsole or a separate piece ofY thin leather, would be secured to the breast and to the marginal portions 23 by cement. The heel would then be ready to receive the usual top lift 25, which would be attached by. any suitable means such as a screw 26 and nails 27, preferably with the addition of cement to make the seam tight.

In case it is desired to use a heel-blank that has been trimmed to the desired shape and made smooth prior to being attached to the shoe, the procedure hereinbefore described would be Varied by omitting the heel-trimming operation. In some cases the trimmed heel-blanks might conform to the lasted shoe so well that no trimming would be necessary after attaching them. In other cases a very slight after-trimming would be suiiicient. In every case, however, the shoe maker would be relieved of the necessity of trimming the `outsole to a feather edge, and the heel-cover would go over, instead of under, the edge of the outsole.

claim:

l. The hereindescribed method of making a shoe, which consists in lasting the upper and insole, attaching an outsole that has an untrimmed heel-seat edge, attaching a heel-blank, trimming said heel-blank and the heel-seat edge of the outsole, and attaching a heel-cover to the trimmed heelblank and tucking the upper marginal portion of such cover between the marginal portion of the heel-seat portion of the outsole and the pulled-over portion of the upper.

2. The hereindescribed method of making a shoe, which consists in lasting the upper and insole, attaching an outsole, attaching a heel-blank, trimming the attached heel-blank, and attaching a heelcover to said heel-blank and tucking the marginal portion of such cover between the contiguous heel-seat portions of the upper and outsole.

3. The hereindescribed method of making a shoe, which consists in lastingl the upper and insole, attaching an outsole, attaching a heel-blank, attaching a heel-cover to said heel-blank, coating the upper marginal portion of said heel-cover with adhesive substance, and tucking said marginal portion between the contiguous heel-seat portions of the upper and outsole.

In testimony whereof I have aiixed my signature.

JAMES F. MARSHALL.