US1322176A - bright - Google Patents

Description

B'. R. mem.

' COLLAR.v

APPLICATION FILED FEB. .2I, i9l9.

Patented Nov. 18, 1919.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

B. R. BRIGHT.

COLLAR.

I APPLICATION FILED FB.21. I939.

1 ,322, 176. Patented Nov. 18, 1919.

3 SHEETSSHEET 2.

mmswrae 555/7967 B. R. BRIGHT;

comm. APPLICATION FILED min. 1919.

, Patented-Nov. 18,1919.

a SHEETS-SHEET a.

I" IIIIILI lllllllllllI-lk UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

BERTI-IA n. BRIGHT, or new YORK, N. Y.

COLLAR.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, BERTHA R. BRIGH'r, a citizen of the United States, residing at city,

county, and State of New York, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Collars, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description.

My invention relates to improvements 1n collars and has for its object to provide a fitted'collar adapted to be produced as a stock article of commercial manufacture. It further has for its object to produce such a collar particularly adapted for womens wear which, when made in either the open front or closed front form, clings to the back of the neck and stands up, producing'a tidy and smart appearance as distinguished from the more or less unformed or unshapely collars now in use. It further has for its object to produce such a collar which when made up in the open front form rolls easily in front so that the length of the opening is easily changed.

The following is a description of an embodiment of my invention, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 shows a sectional view of a collar and guimpe in the positions they assume upon a wearer;

Fig. 2 is a similar view of a modification;

Fig. 3 shows blanks from which the collar of Fig. 1 is formed;

Fig. 4: shows the collar of Fig. 1 extended;

Fig. 5 shows another modification in extended position;

Fig. 6 shows the blanks from which the collar of Fig. 2 is made up;

Fi 7 shows, on a reduced scale, parts forming the collar body blank secured together and ready to receive the insert;

Fig. 8 shows the complete collar of Fig. 2 in somewhat extended position, and

Fig. 9 is a detail showing how the parts are hemstitched together and trimmed.

Referring more particularly to the drawings, the collar is made up of two portions, a body portion and an insert. In theform shown in Figs. 1 and t the collar body 1 is formed in a single piece from a blank 1,

Fig. 3, cut out in the shape shown, having a recess 2 formed at its front edge provided with marginal cuts or darts 2, and the insert'3 is formed from a blank 3, Fig. 3, cut out in the shape shown. The patterns for cutting the above parts are provided Specification of Letters Patent. Patented N 18 1919 Application filed February 21, 1919.

Serial No. 278,415.

with indicating lines according to which, lines of basting 4 and 5 shown in heavy dots are applied to the collar body blank 1 andv insert blank 3 respectively as guides to the operator for the seams securing the two portions together. These lines of basting are provided with transverse indicating lines 6--6 and 77 and similar intermediate lines, the intersections of which, when the parts are sewed together, are made to overlie one another and are so positioned that when the collar body blank and the insert blank are sewed together and the insert is extended into its normal, 2'. c. non-distorted shape, the collar body will be stretched so that the sides 66 and 66 of the recess 2, Fig. 3, will be pulled apart. The intersections are also so positioned that the portions of the insert adjacent to said sides will be eased along the seams 8-9 and 89, Fig. l, when the adjacent body fabric is taut, also so that the collar body along the seam between the points 9 and 9, Fig. at, will be eased when the insert between those two points is held taut. To secure the best results the guiding basting on the collar bodyblank as it approaches the medial point 10 slants slightly toward the outer edge of the collar body. This is for the purpose of producing in the complete collar a drawing down of the collar body at that pointwith the result that more fullness is provided at the outside edge 11 so as to improve the. lay of the collar.

After the insert blank and the collar body blank have been marked, as above described, the insert blank is basted to the collar body blank, so as to make the marking lines above described lie one upon the other. The insert blank is thereupon sewed in place, the two portions being eased in parts relative to each other, as above described.

I prefer to use for this sewing what is known as a hemstitching machine, which secures the parts firmly and produces a neat finish. After the collar body blank and insert blank are hemstitched together the raw edges on each side of the seam are then trimmed ofl as is ordinarily done in connection with work done upon a hemstitching machine and shown in Fig. 9.

In the complete collar the parts are so proportioned that when the collar is upon the wearer the seams between the points 8- and 9 and 8 and 9 respectively terminate about on the medial line of the respective shoulders of the intended wearer, preferably a little forward of that line. The collar, when not applied to a shirt waist or other garment, is preferably applied to a skeleton guimpe 12 of the usual form, extending to the waist and provided with a band 13 to secure it about the waist of the wearer, as shown in Fig. 1.

The modification shown in Fig. 2 is another embodiment of my invention in which reveres are provided, the collar, body being made up of a central portion 14: and two revere port-ions 15 secured thereto, the central collar stopping at about the shoulder line. Fig. 6 shows the blanks cut from suitable patterns for making this revere collar, 14 being the central blank and 15 revere blanks. 16 is the insert formed from the blank 16. The collar body is formed by sewing the central blank 14: and the revere blank 15 together by seams 1919 and 1919 as shown in Fig. 8, after which the insert blank is sewed in place, and the seams trimmed off, a suitable back 17 being provided as desired, the seams being along the lines 17 17 17, and 17 shown in fine dots Fig. 6. In making this form also the insert blanks and the other blanks are provided with proper marking bastings, shown in heavy dots, indicating how the parts are to be sewed together. As the insert is inserted it is eased between the points 18 and 19 and 18 and 19 respectively, Fig. 8, and stretched between the points 19 and 19 relatively to the adjacent portions of the collar body to which it is sewed. In this case also the parts are so proportioned that the lower parts of the seams adjacent to the ends of the insert come approximately above the shoulders of the wearer, or slightly in front of the same. The dot-dash lines show the positions of the finishing edges and seams for attachment to other portions of the guimpe where a guimpe is used.

In the form shown in Fig. 5 the body portion is made of a bias strip folded at 20 so as to be two-ply, having an insert 21 secured in a cut-away portion. The insert 21 is slightly longer than this cut-away portion so as to be somewhat loose at its free edge when the body portion of the collar is flat, as shown, the two being sewed together so that the insert is slightly eased between the points 28 and 29 and 28 and 29 and stretched between the points 29 and 29 relatively to the collar body.

WVith the collars constructed as above the inner fold of the collar snugly fits the back of the neck, clinging thereto, and the further forward portions fit and cling to the shoulders, the outer fold'rolling smoothly thereon. The outer fold of the collar adjusts itself to the shape of the neck and shoulders easily and without strain and where the collar is of the open type, as distinguished from the closed type, the extended ends may be folded so as to produce an opening extending substantially to the waist, or may be rolled up so as to close the opening to a very considerable extent, without interfering with the smart appearance of the collar or the fit around the neck and shoulders.

The material from which the blank of the collar body is formed may be out either straight or on the bias. The inserts, however, should be cut on the straight of the goods, the object being to prevent any longitudinal give in the body of the insert. The ends of the insert and the seams between the points 99, Fig. a, and 19-19', Fig. 8, are substantially parallel with the threads running lengthwise of the inserts when slanted, as shown, gather somewhat without apparent wrinkling when eased as above referred to. The stretching of the collar body above described is of particular importance in embodying my invention. The easing of the collar body and insert is also of importance and I have endeavored to indicate the degree in which the joining parts should be stretched and eased by the lines above referred to. The easing of the insert between the points 8 and 9 and 8 and 9, Fig. l, is nearly uniform along those distances, preferably increasing sli 'htly toward points 8, S. The insert between 9 and 9 being substantially straight with the cloth the stretching of the insert does not produce any substantial elongation between those points and the easing of the collar blank relative to the insert between those points in some forms of fabric will result in a slight fulling, which, however, is very slight, and adjusts itself about the neck of the wearer.

The depth of the insert at the medial line to; insure best results in any form or design of collar applied to shirt waists, dress, or independent collar, as herein described, should be about 2 or 2%- inches, extending upward nearly to the line of fold of the collar. The length from 9 to 9, Fig. 4 should be about the average length of the back of the neck of the wearer, a greater length interfering with the clinging of the collar at this point. This length for the average woman is about seven inches. The ends of the recess are somewhat abrupt and located at about the shoulder portions of the body portion.

The invention is particularly useful in connection with collars made up from sheer fabrics, such as organdies, batistes, georgettes, nets and chiffons and from silk and the like.

While the shapes of the recess in the collar body and of the insert may vary they should always be so related that the insert is longer than the removed portions of the collar body at its free edge so that the sides of the recess in the body blank will be pulled apart and the fabric of the insert should be eased relatively to the adjacent fabric of the body portion along the seams adjacent to those sides and taut along the longitudinal seam in order to secure the best results.

As will be evident to those skilled in the art, my invention permits of various modifications without departing from the spirit thereof or the scope of the appended claims.

What I claim is:

1. In a collar made of woven fabric, a body portion having a recess at its inner edge having its ends located at about the shoulder portions of said body portion and an insert secured in said recess and adapted to extend along the back of the neck of the wearer, the fabric of said body portion adjacent to the ends of said insert being stretched when said insert is extended into its normal shape.

2. In a collar made of woven fabric, a body portion having a recess at its inner edge having its ends somewhat abrupt and located at about the shoulder portions of said body portion and an insert sewed in said recess and adapted to extend along the back of the neck of the wearer, said body portion being stretched adjacent to the seams at the ends of said insert when said insert is extended into its normal shape, and the fabric at the ends of said insert being eased relatively to the adjacent fabric of said body portion.

3. In a collar made of woven fabric, a body portion having a recess at its inner edge having its ends located at about the shoulder portions of said body portion and an elongated insert secured in said recess, said body portion being stretched adjacent to the ends of said insert when said insert is extended into its normal shape, said insert being cut straight with the goods and having its ends eased relatively to the adj acent fabric of said body portion, the seam along the upper edge of the insert being substantially parallel to the threads running lengthwise of the insert.

I. In a collar made of woven fabric, a body portion having a recess at its inner edge and an insert cut straight with the goods and secured in said recess, said body portion being stretched adjacent to the ends of said recess and said insert having its ends eased and its upper edge taut relatively to the adjacent edge of the fabric of the body portion adjacent thereto when said insert is extended into its normal shape.

5. In a collar made of woven fabric, a body portion having a recess at its inner edge and an insert cut straight with the goods and secured in said recess, said body portion being stretched adjacent to the ends of said insert when said insert is extended into its normal shape, said insert, when said collar is in use, being close about the back portion of the neck of the wearer and with its ends approximately in line with the wearers shoulders, the seam along the upper edge of the insert being substantially parallel to the threads running lengthwise of the insert.

BERTHA R. BRIGHT.

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