US1297937A - Collar. - Google Patents

Description

.L M. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION HLED Aue. 1. 19H.

Patented Mar. 18,1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET l @513 @Hom/w95 PM' M )uw Kfm J. IVI. VAN HEUSEN.

COLLAR.

APPLICATION FILED AuG.1. 1917-.

Patented Mal'. 18, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

lUNITED.srn'rus PATENT oFrroE.

II'OBLN'i M. VANHEUSEN, OFBSTN, MASSACHUSETTS.

f COLLAR.- l' V- i To all whom it may cof/wem Beit known that I, J oHN M. VAN HEUSEN,

. a citizen of the United States, residing at Y clare the following tobe' exact description Aof the invention, such as No. 101 Robinwood avenue, Boston, in the county of Suffolk, State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Collars; and I do hereby dea full, clear, and

The common forms of soft folding. collars, made urp of individual layers of fabricy sewed together, usually have the defect that they present a flimsy appearanceg, and 'in order to improve their' appearance it has been .common to embody stiifeners of various kinds between the layers of fabric or to apply detachable stiifeners to the collars when worn.

The present invention has for one of its objects the avoidance of the flimsy appearance ofthe lcommon soft folding collars, and

the provision of a collar which will have an acceptable degree of stiffness, without undue rigidity, so that it will simulate in appear- `ance the common laundried and starched g collars.

, to impart stiffness to the collar as ySo also,

In constructing the collars of the present invention, either the neck band portion of [the collar, or the 'folding or turn down portion of the collar, or both the neck band and folding portions thereof, are made of multiply` fabric or of appropriate single ply fabric of sufficient b ody and of appropriate weave a whole. either the neck band portion, or the folding or turn down portion, of the collar, or both the neck band and turn down portions, when both these portions are made df the special fabric referred to, is provided with a thin integral 0fe extending from the main body of the fabric to which the other portion of the collar is secured. That is to say, either the neck band portion of the collar is made of this special weave falbricv provided with an integral thin edge at the upper portion thereof, to which the top of the Specification o fALetters Patent.

Patented Mall. 1s, 1919.

Application filed August 1, 1917, Serial No. 183,829.

outer folding or turn down portion is secured; ork the outer folding or turn down portion of the collar is provided with such a thin edge to and folding portions, when made of the special weave fabric, are provided with such thm integral edges lwhich are secured to l each other at or near the fold line of the collar. i

The thin edge of .the special weave fabric may be, in certain cases, .a straight edge, but it is more advantageous to'use a fabric with a curvilinear set and with the edge also of curvilinear contour, so that .the curvilinear` edge of Ithe. fabric will conform to the fold line of the collar and .thereby contribute to the permanent curvilinear set of the collar.

The thin edge of the fabric is also advantageously a selvage edge, present a finished appearance without additional binding or without turning it in to 'for-nr |a hem; but the edge may nevertheless be made unfinished or be out from a larger piece of fabric, and be finished in any appropriate manner.

The fatbric which is 4provided with the integral thin edge may be a single ply. fabric,

ofrthe' nature of canvas, but with an appropriate Ibody and fineness of Weave so that it will impart the desired degree of stiffness to the collar. In the preferred embodiments which-the upper side of the neck band is secured; or both the neck band so that it will 4 of the invention, however, the yfabric is a multiply fabric, such as a two or three or four ply fabric, and the integral edge is of the thickness of one or more pl'ies of the Where the neck band portion of the collar is of the multiply fabric having the integral thin edge to whic the foldingor'tu-rn down portion of the collar is secured, the folding or Vturn down portion may likewise be made of multiply fabric, or it may be made of other fabrics such as are now commonly used in-soft collar construction.- The folding or turn down portion of the collar may thus be made to match the shirt with which it is to be worn; or fabrics of different materials or colors or designs may be used for the outer folding portion of the collar and combined with a standard form of neck band.

Where the folding or turn down portion of the collar is of multiply fabric having a fabric, but it will be understood that the Uil thin extending edge to which :the neck band is secured, the neck band may likewise be made of multi-ply fabric, or it may be made of other appropriate fabrics, such as are now commonly used in soft collar construction.

Where both the neck band and folding portions off the collar are made of multiply fabric with the thin integral edge projecte ing therefrom, these thin edges may be of appropriate width and thickness and so arranged that they will require merely stitching together without added binding or finish. That is :to say, .the thin edgemay be a selvage edge, or may be folded in to forni a hem, and the two edges may be stitched together along a line which will be adjacent to the fold line of the collar when finished; and the collar will then lbe finished except for the button-holes and the binding along the outer edges of the multiply fabric. if the multiply fabric is woven in strips of appropriate width and contour, these edges may not require any .added binding except at rthe end tabs.

llfhere the neck band of the collar is of the special weave fabric (either single ply or multiply) of sufficient body and appropriate weave, it will impart a. sufficient vdegree of stidness to the collar so that the necessity of additional stiflening means will be obviated or minimized, and so that'the outer folding portion of the collar, will present a smooth and pleasing appearance.

W hen the outer folding portion of the collar is of this special weave fabric having the integral edge projecting therefrom, and Where this fabric is of appropriate stiffness, without objectionable rigidity, it will tend to maintain its smooth and pleasing appearance even without additional stidening vin the neck band of the collar; but such additional stiffening may be provided, where this may be desirable, and the collar as a whole thereby stifl'ened.

llhere both the folding and neck band portions of the collar are of the special weave fabric, secured together in the manner above referred to, the collar will have an increased degree of stidness due to the combined stiffening `effects of the two fabrics.

lFhere the multiply fabric, and its integral projecting edge of decreased thickness are woven of an appropriate curvilinear contour, and the neck band and folding portions of the collar secured together by means lof the integral edge on one or both the neck band and turn down portions of the'collar,

the edge of the multiply fabric will conform with the fold line of the collar so that the collar will tend to fold along this line, and so that the curvilinear edge of the fabric will 'contribute to the permanent curvilinear set of the collar when folded.

'Where both the neck band and folding portions ,of the collar are of the multiply fabric, and both portions are woven with a curvilinear edge, both portions of the collar will contribute to the desired contour of the collar when folded. lnorder that sufficient space may be left between the neck band and folding portions of the collar for the free play of the necktie, it is advantageous to weave the fabric from which the outer or folding portion is cut somewhat longer than the fabric from which the neck band is cut. The invention will be further described in connection with the embodiments thereof illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure l shows one form of completed collar embodying the invention. T Fig. 2 is a sectional view of the collar of iig. l.

Fig. 3 is an enlarged section of the collar of 1g. 2 showing the collar unfolded.

lof Fig. l.

Fig. 5 shows another construction of collar embodying the invention.

Fig. 6 is a sectional View of the collar of Fig. 5.

Fig. 'l' is an enlarged sectional view of the fold portion ,of the collar of Fig. 6, showing the collar unfolded.

Fig. 8 is a sectional View illustrating a further modified construction.

Fig. 9 is a section through of the collar of Fig. 8, with the collar unfolded..

Fig. 10 is a view similar to that of Fig. 9

l shows one of the ends of the collar the fold portion l showing a still further modified construction.

Fig. li is another view similar to that of Figs. and 10 showing a still further modiiied construction.

Fig.A l2 shows part of a strip of curvi linear fabric having a thin integral edge at u both its edges and adapted for the cutting therefrom of both the neck band and turn down portion of collars embodying the inventio in certain of the figures of the drawings certain of the parts have been somewhat eX- aggerated for purposes of illustration. rlhe special weave fabric has also been illustrated as a multiply fabric. it will be understood however that the invention comprehends in its broader aspects the utilization of either multiply fabrics or appropriate single ply fabrics of proper weave provided with the thin integral edge; although the multiply fabrics are particularly advantageous for purposes of the present invention.

The collar illustrated in Figs. l to is made up of the neck band portion l and the outer folding or turn down portion 2. The neck band portion is of two ply fabric and is provided with an integral edge 3 projecting therefnom, of single ply, as more clearly illustrated in ig. 3.

This edge 1s more- 1 over a selvage edge so that it requires no further binding or finish. The lower edge of the neck. band, if unfinished, may be bound in any' appropriate manner, as by the bind.- ing tape 7 which incloses the edge of the multiply fabric and is stitched thereto by a row of stitches 8. This binding is shown in Fig. 4 asextending also around the end tab 10. A

The folding portion' 2 of the collar is shown as made up of twoseparate pieces of fabric 4 and 5 which are turned in at their upper edges and stitched to the edge 3 by one or more rows of stitches 6, one of which is-shown. At the lower edge of the folding portion of the collar the-two pieces of fabric are turned in and stitched at 9. The usual button-hole in the end tabs ofthe collar is indicated at 11.

i With the construction and arrangement of Figs. 1 to 4, the turned edges of the fabrics 4 and' 5 overlap the thin edge 3 its entire width so that there is no portion of increased iiexibility between the ends of these two fab rics and the edge of the multiply fabric. The collar will accordingly foldso that the row orrows of stitches 6 will be on the inside of the collarout of sight, as will be apparent 'from Figs. 1 and 2.

When the neck band of the collar shown in' Figs. 1 to 4 is of an appropriate multiply fabric, this neck band will impart to the collar a sufficient degree of stiffness so that the collar will tend to maintain its upright position without wrinklng and without ad- Y ditional stiffening means and so that the folding portion will be left free to assume a smooth natural position without added stiffening.

may l band. or the foldingportion of the collar gSuch additional stiffening means where special ocoaslon may require them,

or detachable stiffeners may be used, but the construction illustrated, where the fabric is of appropriate weave and stiffness, obviates or minimizes the necessity for such addi.

. made of three ply fabric so that the entire tional stieners. Y

The multiply fabric shown in Figs. 1 to 4 has a curvilinear edge and is of such contour that the edge of the fabric and the thin `extension 3 thereof will conform with the -range of fabrics can be utilized ink selecting the vcolor or design of the folding portion,

so thatvthis may matchthe shirt, or may be of other desirable color or design.l en

thecollar isintended to be reversible, the

two fabrics forming the folding portion of the collar may be of the same or different colorI or design.

.It will be understood that the shape and` of course be added to either the neck .size of thecollar of Fig. 1, or of the other modifications of the invention, may be varied in accordance with the demands of the trade and other considerations.

The collar of Figs. l5 to 7 has its outer or turn ldown portion 13 of three ply fabric provided with the thin edge 19 of single ply to which the fabrics of the neck band 12are lupper edge at 20 and 21 to the edge 19 of the multiply fabric. The multiply fabric is'shown as having its lower edge 15 turned and a tape 16 applied thereto and stitched at 17 and 18, one row of stitches passing through the turned edge as well as through the tape andone row passing through only the tape and the multiply fabricbeyond the turned edge.

' The edge 19 of Fig. 7 is shown as a selvage edge so that it requires no other bindin or finish. It is also shown of a width su cient toextend over the fold line of the collar and to be secured to the upper edge of the neck band as shown. The neck band does not overlap this edge 19 its full width sovthat there is left a space between the upper edge of the neck band and the upper edge of the multiply fabric where the single thickness of fabric forms a natural fold line of increased iexibility. When the multiply fabric is of curvilinear weave, corresponding to the curvilinear set of thecollar,

'lov

be arranged on the inside of the collarwhee the stitchin will not show. -q

In the colar of Fi 8 and l9, both` the neck band 22 and the oldingportion 23 are edgeI of the collar may be, if desired,jpro

vided with the same kind of binding, for

example, 'a binding tape 24. The upperv natural fold line of the collar.l TheJ arrangement is such that the collar will tend to fold at the proper place provided therefor,

on the, inside ofthe collar and hidden from view when the collar is worn.

1nthe construction of Fig. 10 the three so that the double row of stitches 27 lwhich l 'secures the two thin edges together will be ply fabric 28 which forms the outer folding portion of the collar has a singleply edge 30 Which is not a salvage edge, but which is of a Width greater than is required for unitin the neck band 29 thereto. Ilhe neck ban 29 is shown as made up of two pieces of fabric similar to those of Figs. 1 to fi. The thin edge 30 is folded over and the edges of the fabrics 29 are laid thereon and a tape 31 then laid over t-he edges of these fabrics and stitched through the fabrics and the single ply edge 30 to form a binding and finish therefor. lVith this arrangement also the thin edge 30 may be arranged `to form the natural. fold line of the collar.

rllhe construction of Fig. 11 likewise shows the multiply fabric 32 having a single ply edge 34 projecting therefrom. rlhe tvvo layers of fabric 33 which form the neck band of the collar have their edges turned in and are arranged one on-each side of thethin single ply edge 3d and stitched thereto.` lf

i the edge 34 is not finished it Will nevertheless be hidden from View in the construction of .this figure; and it will still serve as a fold line of increased iiexibility.

rllhe fabric of Fig. 12 is a curvilinear fabric Woven with one edge longer than the other and With progressively greater length from the inner to the outer edge. rlhe inner edge 38 Will accordingly be concave or of lesser length than the outer edge 37. Both the edges37 and 38 of the fabric 36 may be thin edges such as are described above for securing the collar. together. if both edges are thus made thin, the neck band portion of the collar may be cut from the longer edge of the fabric and the outer folding portion from the shorter edge 38. lf the neck band and foldingportions thus cut are then se'- cured together, in the manner above de scribed, the neck band Will be shorter than its thin edge 37 and the folding portion will be longer than its thin edge 38, so that the folding portion will as a Whole be longer than the neck band. With this construction also the collar will have a tendency to fold along the edge of the multiply fabric which Will thus contribute to the permanent curvilinear set of the collar as a Whole.

lt will be understood that the multiply fabric, as Well as the individual layers of single ply fabrics such as those of l? ig. 1, may be made of dierent kinds of material, and that the different plies of the same fabric may be made of different materials. i finer or more expensive material such as silk may thus form the outer ply of the fabric and a less expensive material the other plies. lt Will be understood also that the multiply fabric may be of dierent colors or designs to match the shirtsvvith which it is to be worn, or so that, Where the collar is reversible, it may present the same or a different appearance on the different sides.

rennes? having an integral thin edge to which theother portion is secured.

2. A soft folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a fold- 'ing or turn down portion, one of said portions being of multiply fabric and having an integral thin edge projecting therefrom to Which the other portion of the collar is secured.

3. Soft folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion, one of said portions being of appropriate thickness and Weave to give stiffness to the collar and having a thin edge `Woven integral therewith, and of curvilinear Acontour corresponding to the fold line of the collar, to which the edge of'the other portion of the collar is secured 4. A soft folding or turndown collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion, one of said portions being of multiply interwoven fabric and having an integral thin edge projecting therefrom, of curvilinear contour corresponding to the fold line of the collar, to which the edge of the other portion of the collar is secured.

5. A soft folding or turndoWn collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion, the neck band portion being of appropriate thickness and Weave to impart stid'ness to the collar and having an integral thin edge projecting therefrom to which the edge of. the turn dovvn portion of the -collar is secured, the

said edge being on the inner side of the collar Where it is hidden from View.

6. A soft folding or turn down collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion, the outer folding portion being ,of appropriate thickness and Weave to impart stiness to the collar and having an integral thin edge extending beilo youd the fold line ofthe collar and secured to the upper edge of the neck band.

7. A soft. folding orv turn down collar .in portion of the collar being of multiply fa ric and having an edge of curvilinear contour conforming to the fold line lof the collar and an integral thin edge projecting therefrornfand extending beyond th'e fold line and secured to the upper edge of the neck band, and vthe edge of the neck band portion overlapping the thin edge a portion only of its width and being spaced away from the multiply fabric so that the thin l edge forms a fold line of increased flexil bility.

9. A soft folding made up lof a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion, both of saidv portions being of appropriate thickness and or turn down' collar Weave I to impart -stiffness to the collar and having integral thin edges extending therefrom and secured together near the fold line of the col-lar. v

l0. A soft folding or turn downy collar made up of a neck band portion and a folding or turn down portion, both of said portions being of vmultiply fabric and having curvilinear edges -corresponding to the fold line of the collar, and both of said fabrics having integral thin edges projecting therefrom and secured together near the fold line of the collar. Y A

In testimony whereof I affix my JOHN M. VAN HEUSEN.

signature.

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