US1296002A - Sewing-machine. - Google Patents

Sewing-machine. Download PDF

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Publication number
US1296002A
US1296002A US87246914A US1914872469A US1296002A US 1296002 A US1296002 A US 1296002A US 87246914 A US87246914 A US 87246914A US 1914872469 A US1914872469 A US 1914872469A US 1296002 A US1296002 A US 1296002A
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Prior art keywords
support
arm
gathering
lever
feeding
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US87246914A
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James R Moffatt
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Union Special Machine Co
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Union Special Machine Co
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05BSEWING
    • D05B35/00Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
    • D05B35/08Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for for ruching, gathering, casing, or filling lace, ribbons, or bindings; Pleating devices; Cuttlers; Gathering feet; Crimpers; Curlers; Rufflers

Definitions

  • SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED NOV. is. 1914.
  • the invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines, and more particularly to machines which are adapted to stitch an inelastic lining strip or the like to an elastic body fabric.
  • An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character with a gathering or feeding member which engages the elastic body fabric and feeds the same to the stitching machine slightly faster than the inelastic strip is fed by the feeding mechanism of the machine.
  • a further object of the invention is to provide a device of the above character wherein the gathering member is positively moved back and forth through means connected with the needle bar, and wherein said gathering member is positively raised and lowered in proper timed relation to its forward and backward movements.
  • a still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character wherein the gathering blade is yieldingly pressed into engagement with the material, and an adjusting stop is provided for limiting the downward movement of the gathering member so the same may be raised from the material for the backward or return movement of the gathering member.
  • a still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character with devices for laying a thread across the edge of the body fabric for joining an-edging thereto, which thread-laying devices are positivelyactuated.
  • Figure 1 is a front view of a portion of the machine having my improvements applied thereto;
  • Fig. 2 is an end view thereof
  • Fig. 3 is a rear View of the machine
  • Fig. 4' is an enlarged detail sectional view on the line of the feed, many of the parts being omitted for the sake of clearness;
  • Fig. 5 isa detail partly in section on the line of feed, showing the gathering member as it is moving into engagement with the fabric;
  • Fig. 6 is a similar view showing the gathering member feeding the fabric forward
  • Fig. 7 is a view showing the gathering member at the extreme rearward end of its stroke
  • Fig. 8 is a view in plan, showing the threaddaying devices which cooperate with the needles;
  • Fig. 9 is a detail in front elevation, showingthe position of the needles, the thread guide and the thread-laying hook, when said thread-laying hook is at the forward end of its stroke;
  • F 10 is a plan view of the same
  • Fig. 11 is a bottom plan view showing a lining strip and an edging attached to a body fabric by my improved mechanism.
  • Fig. 12 is a perspective view, of parts detached, showing the controlling plate and one member of the toggle for raising and lowering the gathering member.
  • Fig. 13 is a view more or less diagrammatic, showing the controlling plate for lifting the gathering blade, with said plate in its lower position.
  • Fig. 14 is a similar view, showing the plate in its raised position.
  • Fig. 15 is a detail, showing in side elevation the yoke and the cam for operating the same, which yoke oscillates the gathering blade.
  • a sewing machine which consists of a work support 1, having an overhanging arm 2 in which reciprocates a needle bar 3.
  • the needle bar 3 is connected by a link a to a needle lever 5 which is of the usual construction.
  • This needle bar as herein shown, is provided with three needles, 6, 7 and 8.
  • the needles 7 and 8 arelocated at some. distancefrom the needle 6, and are the edge-stitching needles.
  • the machine is particularly adapted for stitching a binding strip, indicated at L, Fig. 11, to a body fabric, indicated at B, and also for attaching an edging, indicatedat in thisfigure.
  • the needle 6 produces the line of stitching 6% in Fig. 11, while the needles 7 and 8. produce the lines of stitching 7 and. 8 respec The delivering end of this. guide registers with the slot 11 in the work support, and the lining strip passing through the guide led underneath the separator plate 12 and thence to the stitching mechanism.
  • the ed ing E is fed through a guide 13, adjustably attached by screws 1- to the guide 9.
  • the edging passes up through a slot in the work support underneath the separating platelz.
  • the guides 9 and 13 are both. carried by the bracket 10.
  • the separator plate 1-2 is attached to the upper face of the work support and adjacent one sideof the separator plate is an edge guide 15, whiclrdirects the edge of the body fabric passing over the edge of the separator plate underneath the 'presser foot 16.
  • the presser foot 16 is mounted on a presser bar 17, which is carried by the overhanging arm 2.
  • a thread laying hook 18 Cooperating with the needles 7 and S is a thread laying hook 18.
  • This thread-laying hook 18 has a shoulder 19 thereon.
  • the thread for the threaddaying hook is led through a guide eye 90 carried by an arm 21.
  • This arm 21 is mounted beneath the work support, and is moved positively back and forth in a direction parallel to the line of feed.
  • the threar'l-laying hook 18 is carried by an arm 22 attached to a vertical shaft 23, mounted to oscillate in bearings 24.
  • the arm 22 has a ball joint 25.
  • A, link 26- is pivoted at one end of the ball joint and at its other end to the needle lever extension, so that, as the needles are reciprocated, the thread-laying hook 18 is oscillated back and forth in timed relation thereto.
  • the shaft 23 which forms the pivotal axis for the arm 22 is so disposed that the hook moves ina direction substantially at right angles to the line of feed.
  • the thread guide 20, as above noted, moves in a directionsubstantially parallel with the line of feed.
  • the needle 7, as clearly shown in Fig. 9 of the drawings, is slightly lower than the needle 8;
  • the thread laying hook and the guide eye are so-timcd that the thread is engaged by the hook and a loop is formed which is carried across the needles, one strand of the loop engaging the needle 7 and passing in rear of the needle 8, while the other strand of the loop passes in rear of bothneedles. It will thus be seen a loop is formed in the thread which is engaged by the needle 7 and the loops are stitched in this way to the body fabric.
  • A. single looper preferably cooperates with the two needles 7 and 8' beneath the work support, and operates to tie together the lines of stitching beneath tl fabric.
  • the fabric is fed to the stitching mechanism by a feed dog 35.
  • This feed dog is carried by a feedibar 3(3 moved up and down by an eccentric 37 on the main shaft 34.
  • the feed bar is pivoted to a feed rocker 3S, and this feed rocker is oscillated by an arm 33.), connected through a link 10 with a c an'k on the forward end of the shaft 3 1.
  • This feed operating mechanism is of the usual type, and further description thereof is not thought necessary.
  • the feed dog is raised into engagement with the fabric, and then is moved rcarwardly to feed the fabric forward; then lowered to disengage the fabric and returned for its next feeding stroke.
  • My machine is particularly adapted for stitching an inelastic lining strip to an elastic body fabric.
  • T have provided a gathering or feeding member 4L1, which is in the form, as herein shown, of a gathering blade. adapted to engage the "body fabric on the separator plate, and to move forward to carry the fabric over the separating plate and crowd the same underneath the up turned end 16' of the presser foot 16.
  • the gathering blade is pivotally connected to a support
  • the support is formed in two sections.
  • the upper section includes a rod 43, and this rod is mounted in a shank si l, which is adjustably attached to the lower section of the support.
  • the upper part 45 of the lower portion of the support is provided with a rib which engages a groove in the shank dd.
  • the rib is slotted at 46, and a screw d7 passing through the slot into the shank 44 holds the two sections adjustably connected together.
  • the rib and slot preventthe sections from turn ing one on the other.
  • the gathering blade tl is pivoted at $8, to the lower portion of the support 12; A spring -l9 normally de presses the gathering member so that the same is caused to yieldingly engage the fabric.
  • a stop arm 50 is pivoted at 51 to the support 42, and the lower end of this arm en tendsiuiderneath the gathering blade and serves as a stop for limiting the downward movement of the gathering blade through the action of the spring thereon.
  • the arm 50 has an offset 52, which is slotted and a screw 53 passing through the slot holds the arm in adjusted positions on "he support. By shifting this arm, the position of, the lower end thereof may be varied, andthus This gathering blade is the position of the limiting stop for the gathering member varied.
  • the rod 43 is pivoted at to a lever 55 fulcrnmed at 56 on a bracket 57.
  • the bracket 57 is connected to the overhanging arm.
  • the other end of the lever 55 is pivoted at 58 to the link 59.
  • the link 59 is pivotedto a second link 60 which in turn is pivoted to an arm 60, which is fixed to the outer end of the shaft 28 mounted in the bearings and 80 on the overhanging arm.
  • This shaft 28 carries a rearwardly extending arm 31, to which is attached a link 32.
  • the link 32 is in turn connected to a pivoted fork 33 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaft 3%.
  • the arm 31 is slotted so that the pivot for the link 32 may be adjusted for varying the oscillations of the shaft 28.
  • the link 60 has an integral arm 60 attached thereto and this arm carries a pin 60 having a roller 60 which engagesa slot 60 formed in a plate 60.
  • the plate 60 is-loosely journaled on the shaft 28.
  • a link 60 is pivoted to the plate 60 and to a rearwardly projecting lug 60 carried bythe presser bar 17.
  • the links 59 and 60 are toggle links and their movements are controlled by the slot 60", in which the roller carried 'by the arm 60" moves. In other words, as the arm 60 oscilla tee, the roller will ride up and down in the slot.
  • the roller fits loosely in the slot and the position of this slot is such, relative to the axis of the shaft 28, that there is very little lateral movement imparted to the link 60 during the oscillations of the arm 60
  • the lifting of the presser foot will cause the link 60 to swing the plate 60 and this swinging of the plate 60 causes the inclined portion of the side wall of the cam slot 60 to contact with the roller 60 and oscillate the links 59 and 60.
  • the roller 60 i: below a horizontal line passing through the axis of the shaft 28, and, therefore, an upward movement of the plate will force the pin to the right, as viewed in Fig. 2, thus buckling further the toggles 59 and 60, and will'raise the outer end of the lever 55 and also the gathering blade from the fabric.
  • the bracket 57 is provided with a slot 61 and a screw 62 passing through the slot holds thebracket in adjusted. position on the overhanging arm.
  • a stop screw 63 extends through the bracket and engages the screw 62 to aid in holding the bracket in adjusted positions.
  • the adjustment of the bracket is in a direction transversely of the line of reciprocation of the needle bar, so that the pivotal support 54 of the supporting member for the gathering blade may be adjusted to ward and from the line of reciprocation of theneedlebar.
  • a sleeve 64 slides freely up and down on the rod 43.
  • This sleeve is pivoted at 65 to a bracket 66, clamped to the needlebar 3.
  • the bracket extends rearwardlv of the needle bar and has a fork 67, which slidingly enof reciprocation of the needle bar than the center of the sleeve 64, then the sleeve sliding up and down on the rod 43 will oscillate the same about said pivotal point 54.
  • This pivotal point 54 may be adjusted by adjusting the bracket 57, and by this adjustment, the throw of the rod 43 about the pivotal point 51 may be varied.
  • the oscillations of the lever 55 are so timed relative to the reciprocations of the needle bar, and the n'lovements of the main feed dog 35, that said gathering member is moved into engagement with the-fabric when the needles begin the first part of their upward movement, and when the needles are clear of the fabricand the action of the main teed dog takes place.
  • This gathering member will engage the upper face of the body fabric and move the same forward, crowding it underneath the upturned end 16 of the presser foot. The gathering member is then raised entirely free of thefabric and is returned for its next feeding stroke.
  • the oscillations of the arm 60 are brought about by the usual three-cornered cam 33 and this cam gives a movement to the arm and then a dwell, so the arm dwells while the gatheringblade is in its forward posi tion and during the feed of the fabric by the main feed dog.
  • the controlling plate 60 is in its lower position and the movements of the arm 60? will cause the roller 60 to move up in. the vertical portion of the slot 60, and
  • the length of the stroke of the arm 60 may be adjusted, asabovenoted, and this will vary the extent of oscillation of the lever 55 and thus vary the up and down movement of the gathering blade.
  • Fig. 14L of the drawings I have shown the controlling plate 60 shifted through the lifting of the presser bar either by the treadle or the hand lever thereof. This lifting of the controlling plate 60 occurs when the machine is at rest. .
  • the slot 60 now becomes a cam slot operating upon the roller 60 to shift the link 60, buckling the toggles as indicated in dotted lines in this view, and this depresses the rear end of the lever 55 and thus raises the gathering blade.
  • the roller 60 is so positioned in the slot that the first movement of the presser bar starts to'raise the presser foot before the gathering blade is raised, but the n'iovements of the parts which lift the gathering blade are so related that said gathering blade will be raised faster than the presser foot and to a point slightly above the presser foot.
  • the movement of the gathering blade when the presser foot is raised is a differential movement relative to the presser foot, and brings the gathering blade well above the presser foot to facilitate the insertion or removal of the material.
  • the stroke of the gathering member is preferably so regulated that it is slightly greater than the feed stroke of the feed dog. This results in a feeding of the body fabric slightly faster than the body fabric is carried away from the needles by the main feed dog, and, therefore, the body fabric will be gathered sufficiently to prevent stretching of the same due to the fol lowing feeding movement of the fabric by the feed dog.
  • the feeding member 41' may operate upon the fabric so as to prevent the fabric being fed thereby from being stretched relative to the body fabric, or said feeding member may gather the strip being fed, or again, said member may ruffle the strip be ing fed.
  • the result of the feeding member upon the strip depends upon the character of the material and upon the throw of said feeding member.
  • a work support stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a feeding member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitchingmechanism
  • means for actuating said feeding'member including a support for said member, a lever attached to the upper end of said support, means for positively oscillating the lever for raising and lowering the support, means for engaging said support intermediate its ends for moving the same back and forth.
  • a prrsser foot means for raising the presser foot and means for raising the support for the feciling'member with the presser foot.
  • a work support stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering member including a support for said gathering member, a lever pivotally connected with the upper end of said support, a bracket for supporting said lever, means for positively oscillating the lever for moving the support up and down, a sleeve slidably mounted on said support,
  • stitching mechanism feeding mechanism, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering member including a support for said gathering member, a lever pivotally connected with the upper end of said support, a bracket for supporting said lever, means for positively oscillating the lever for moving the support up and down, a sleeve slidably mounted on said support, devices for attaching said sleeve to the needle bar, said sleeve being so disposed relative to the connection of the lever to the support as to oscillate the support as the needle bar moves up and down, means for adjusting said bracket transversely of the line of reciprocation of the needle bar whereby the throw of the support for the-gathering member may be varied, a presser foot, means for raising thepresser foot and means for raising the support for the feeding member with the presser foot.
  • H 6 The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering member including a support for said gathering member, means for pivotally connecting the gathering member to said support, a spring for depressing the gathering member, a stop for limiting the downward movement of said gathering member, and means for moving said support back and forth and up and down.
  • a work support stitching mechanism including a needle bar, feeding mechanism, a gathering blade for engaging the material on the worksupport in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering blade including a support for said gathering blade, said gathering blade being pivotally connected to aid support, a spring for normally pressing said blade toward the work support, an arm pivotally connected to said support and extending underneath said blade for limiting the downward movement thereof, a lever pivotally connected to the upper end of said support, means for oscillating the lever for raising and lowering said support, a sleeve slidably mounted on said support, and a bracket attached to the needle bar to which said sleeve is pivoted whereby the reciprocation of the needle bar will oscillate said support on its connection with said lever.
  • a work support including a needle bar, feeding mechanism, a gathering blade for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism
  • means for actuating said blade member including a support for said blade, said gathering blade being pivotally connected to said support, a spring for normally pressin said blade toward the work support, an a justable arm pivotally connected to said support and extending underneath said blade for limiting the downward movement thereof, a lever pivotally connected to the upper end of said support, means for oscillating the lever for raising and lowering said support, a sleeve slidably mounted on said support, a bracket attached to the needle bar to which said sleeve is pivoted whereby the reciprocation of the needle bar will oscillate said support on its connection with said lever, a bracket for supporting said lever, and means whereby said bracket may be adjusted transversely of the line of reciprocation of the needle for varying the throw of the support.
  • a work support stitching mechanism including a needle bar, and means for reciprocating the same, an overhanging arm in which said needle bar reciprocates, a shaft mounted in bearings in said overhanging arm, means for oscillating said shaft, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the needle, a support for said gathering member, a lever for raisin and lowering said support, means for positively oscillating said lever from said shaft, means for moving said support back and forth, a presser foot, means for raising the presser foot and means for raising the support for the feeding member with the presser foot.
  • a work support stitching mechanism including a needle bar, and means for reciprocatin the same, an overhanging arm in which said needle bar reciprocates, a shaft mounted in bearings in said overhanging arm, means for oscillating said shaft, a gathering member engaging the material on the Work support 111 advance of the stitching mechanism, a lever connected to the overhanging arm, a support for the gathering member, said support being pivotall connected to said lever, an arm on said siaft, toggle links connecting said arm to said lever, and means for moving said support back'and forth.
  • avork support including a needle bar, and means for reciprocating the same, an overhanging arm in which said needle bar reciprocates, a shaft mounted in bearingsiu said overhanging arm, means for oscillating said shaft, a gathering member engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, a lever connected to the overhanging arm, a support forthe gathering member, said support being'piw otally connected to said lever, an arm on said shaft, toggle links connecting said arm to saidlever, means for moving said support back and forth, an'd'means for holding said links from substantial movement relative to each other as the arm oscillates.
  • V 13 The combination of a Work support, stitching mechanism including a needle bar, and means for reciprocating the same, an overhanging arm in Which said needle bar 'reciprocates, a shaft mounted in bearings in said overhanging arm, means for oscillating said shaft, a gathering member engaging the material on the work support in advance of the.
  • stitching mechanism 'a lever connected to-the overhanging arm, a support for the gathering member, said support being pivotally connected to said lever, an arm on said shaft, links connecting said arm to said lever, means formoving said support backand forth, means for holding said links from substantial movement relative to each other as the arm oscillates, and means whereby said links may be moved by the presser foot lifting mechanism when the 'machine is stopped for raising the gathering member from the fabric.
  • a feeding member located in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for moving the feeding member back and forth, and means 55 for positively raising and lowering said feedingmember, said means including a lever, an arm carried by the shaft, toggle links connecting the arm to the lever, and means for holding the toggle links from substantial movement relative to each other duringfthe oscillation of the'airm, whereby the oscillations of the arm are imparted to the lever through said toggle links.
  • a shaft mounted in said overhanging arm a feeding member located in advance ofthe stitching member, means for moving the feeding member back and forth, and means for positively'raising and lowering said feeding member
  • said means including a lever, an arm carried'bytheshaft, toggle links connecting the arm'to the lever, means for holding the toggle links from substantialmovement relative to each other during the oscillations of'the arm, Wherebythe'oscillations of the arm are imparted to the lever through said toggle links, and means "whereby said toggle links maybe buckled When themachine is at rest for raising the gathering member.
  • the combination-Wth a work support, a stitch-forming mechanism, and a feed-ing mechanism including a presser foot, of a feeding member independent of the foot for engaging the material on the Work support in advance of the stitch forming mechanism, mea1'1sincluding acam slot and a' pincooperating therewith for actuating said feeding member intimed relation to thejmovements of the feeding mechanism, and means under the control of the operator'for rais 1 a stitch-forming mechanism and afee'ding mechanism including a presser foot, of a feed member independent of the foot for engaging the material on the Work support in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, means for imparting a positive four motion movement to said feeding member, said means including an adjustable connection for varying the up and down movement of said feeding member, and means under control of the operator for raising the foot and 10 for positively raising the feeding member therewith.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Description

J. R. MOFFATT.
SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED NOV. 16. I914.
Patented Mar. 4, 1919.
5 SHEETSSHEET 1- Patented War. 4, 1919.
'5 SHEETSSHEEI 2.
nuemtoz 1. R. MOFFATT.
SEWING MACHINE.
' APPLICATION FILED NOV. [6. IBM. 1 96,002. Patented Mar -4,1919. 5SHEETS-SHEET3- Q Q $6 W m Q Q g Q Q m 1 Q3 w l v (3 s Z S N N Q h 2 g Q 3 2% s f) t I L a as J. R. MOFFATT.
SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED NOV. is. 1914.
1 296,002, Patented Mar. 4,1919.
5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.
wi lmwowo J. R. MOFFATT.
SEWING MACHINE.
APPLICATION FILED NOV. 15. 1914.
Patented Mar. 4,1919.
5 SHEET SSHEEI' 5.
Z7177)? "p x v 3 I g;
Willi JAMES R. MOIE'FAT'I, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, ASSIGNOR TO UNION SPECIAL MACHINE COMPANY, OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, A CORPORATION OF ILLINOIS.
SEWING-MACHINE.
' naeaoee.
Specification of Letters Patent.
Patented Mar. d, 1919.
Application filed November 16, 1914. Serial No. 872,469.
To aZZ whom it may concern:
Be it known that I, J AMES R. MorrA'rT, a citizen of the United States, residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook, State of Illinois, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines, of which the following is a description, reference being had to the accompanying drawing, and to the figures of reference marked thereon.
The invention relates to new and useful improvements in sewing machines, and more particularly to machines which are adapted to stitch an inelastic lining strip or the like to an elastic body fabric.
An object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character with a gathering or feeding member which engages the elastic body fabric and feeds the same to the stitching machine slightly faster than the inelastic strip is fed by the feeding mechanism of the machine.
A further object of the invention is to provide a device of the above character wherein the gathering member is positively moved back and forth through means connected with the needle bar, and wherein said gathering member is positively raised and lowered in proper timed relation to its forward and backward movements.
A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character wherein the gathering blade is yieldingly pressed into engagement with the material, and an adjusting stop is provided for limiting the downward movement of the gathering member so the same may be raised from the material for the backward or return movement of the gathering member.
A still further object of the invention is to provide a machine of the above character with devices for laying a thread across the edge of the body fabric for joining an-edging thereto, which thread-laying devices are positivelyactuated.
In the drawings, which show by way of illustration one embodiment of the invention,
Figure 1 is a front view of a portion of the machine having my improvements applied thereto;
, Fig. 2 is an end view thereof;
Fig. 3 is a rear View of the machine; Fig. 4': is an enlarged detail sectional view on the line of the feed, many of the parts being omitted for the sake of clearness;
Fig. 5 isa detail partly in section on the line of feed, showing the gathering member as it is moving into engagement with the fabric;
Fig. 6 is a similar view showing the gathering member feeding the fabric forward;
Fig. 7 is a view showing the gathering member at the extreme rearward end of its stroke;
Fig. 8 is a view in plan, showing the threaddaying devices which cooperate with the needles;
Fig. 9 is a detail in front elevation, showingthe position of the needles, the thread guide and the thread-laying hook, when said thread-laying hook is at the forward end of its stroke;
F 10 is a plan view of the same;
Fig. 11 is a bottom plan view showing a lining strip and an edging attached to a body fabric by my improved mechanism.
Fig. 12 is a perspective view, of parts detached, showing the controlling plate and one member of the toggle for raising and lowering the gathering member.
Fig. 13 is a view more or less diagrammatic, showing the controlling plate for lifting the gathering blade, with said plate in its lower position.
Fig. 14: is a similar view, showing the plate in its raised position.
Fig. 15 is a detail, showing in side elevation the yoke and the cam for operating the same, which yoke oscillates the gathering blade.
In the drawings, I have shown the invention as applied to a sewing machine, which consists of a work support 1, having an overhanging arm 2 in which reciprocates a needle bar 3. The needle bar 3 is connected by a link a to a needle lever 5 which is of the usual construction. This needle bar, as herein shown, is provided with three needles, 6, 7 and 8. The needles 7 and 8 arelocated at some. distancefrom the needle 6, and are the edge-stitching needles.
Cooperating with the needles beneath the work support is any suitable complemental stitch-forming mechanisn'i. The machine is particularly adapted for stitching a binding strip, indicated at L, Fig. 11, to a body fabric, indicated at B, and also for attaching an edging, indicatedat in thisfigure. The needle 6 produces the line of stitching 6% in Fig. 11, While the needles 7 and 8. produce the lines of stitching 7 and. 8 respec The delivering end of this. guide registers with the slot 11 in the work support, and the lining strip passing through the guide led underneath the separator plate 12 and thence to the stitching mechanism.
The ed ing E is fed through a guide 13, adjustably attached by screws 1- to the guide 9. The edging passes up through a slot in the work support underneath the separating platelz. The guides 9 and 13 are both. carried by the bracket 10. The separator plate 1-2 is attached to the upper face of the work support and adjacent one sideof the separator plate is an edge guide 15, whiclrdirects the edge of the body fabric passing over the edge of the separator plate underneath the 'presser foot 16. The presser foot 16 is mounted on a presser bar 17, which is carried by the overhanging arm 2.
Cooperating with the needles 7 and S is a thread laying hook 18. This thread-laying hook 18 has a shoulder 19 thereon. The thread for the threaddaying hook is led through a guide eye 90 carried by an arm 21. This arm 21 is mounted beneath the work support, and is moved positively back and forth in a direction parallel to the line of feed. The threar'l-laying hook 18 is carried by an arm 22 attached to a vertical shaft 23, mounted to oscillate in bearings 24. The arm 22 has a ball joint 25. A, link 26-is pivoted at one end of the ball joint and at its other end to the needle lever extension, so that, as the needles are reciprocated, the thread-laying hook 18 is oscillated back and forth in timed relation thereto.
The shaft 23 which forms the pivotal axis for the arm 22 is so disposed that the hook moves ina direction substantially at right angles to the line of feed. The thread guide 20, as above noted, moves in a directionsubstantially parallel with the line of feed. The needle 7, as clearly shown in Fig. 9 of the drawings, is slightly lower than the needle 8; The thread laying hook and the guide eye are so-timcd that the thread is engaged by the hook and a loop is formed which is carried across the needles, one strand of the loop engaging the needle 7 and passing in rear of the needle 8, while the other strand of the loop passes in rear of bothneedles. It will thus be seen a loop is formed in the thread which is engaged by the needle 7 and the loops are stitched in this way to the body fabric. This serves as a tying meansv for joining the lines of stitching and securing firmly the edging to the body fabric. A. single looper preferably cooperates with the two needles 7 and 8' beneath the work support, and operates to tie together the lines of stitching beneath tl fabric.
The fabric is fed to the stitching mechanism by a feed dog 35. This feed dog is carried by a feedibar 3(3 moved up and down by an eccentric 37 on the main shaft 34. The feed bar is pivoted to a feed rocker 3S, and this feed rocker is oscillated by an arm 33.), connected through a link 10 with a c an'k on the forward end of the shaft 3 1. This feed operating mechanism is of the usual type, and further description thereof is not thought necessary. The feed dog is raised into engagement with the fabric, and then is moved rcarwardly to feed the fabric forward; then lowered to disengage the fabric and returned for its next feeding stroke.
My machine is particularly adapted for stitching an inelastic lining strip to an elastic body fabric. In order to prevent the elastic body fabric from stretching as is fed through the stitching mechanism, T have provided a gathering or feeding member 4L1, which is in the form, as herein shown, of a gathering blade. adapted to engage the "body fabric on the separator plate, and to move forward to carry the fabric over the separating plate and crowd the same underneath the up turned end 16' of the presser foot 16.
The gathering blade is pivotally connected to a support The support is formed in two sections. The upper section includes a rod 43, and this rod is mounted in a shank si l, which is adjustably attached to the lower section of the support. The upper part 45 of the lower portion of the support is provided with a rib which engages a groove in the shank dd. The rib is slotted at 46, and a screw d7 passing through the slot into the shank 44 holds the two sections adjustably connected together. The rib and slot preventthe sections from turn ing one on the other. The gathering blade tl is pivoted at $8, to the lower portion of the support 12; A spring -l9 normally de presses the gathering member so that the same is caused to yieldingly engage the fabric.
A stop arm 50 is pivoted at 51 to the support 42, and the lower end of this arm en tendsiuiderneath the gathering blade and serves as a stop for limiting the downward movement of the gathering blade through the action of the spring thereon. The arm 50 has an offset 52, which is slotted and a screw 53 passing through the slot holds the arm in adjusted positions on "he support. By shifting this arm, the position of, the lower end thereof may be varied, andthus This gathering blade is the position of the limiting stop for the gathering member varied. p V
. The rod 43 is pivoted at to a lever 55 fulcrnmed at 56 on a bracket 57. The bracket 57 is connected to the overhanging arm. The other end of the lever 55 is pivoted at 58 to the link 59. The link 59 is pivotedto a second link 60 which in turn is pivoted to an arm 60, which is fixed to the outer end of the shaft 28 mounted in the bearings and 80 on the overhanging arm. This shaft 28 carries a rearwardly extending arm 31, to which is attached a link 32. The link 32 is in turn connected to a pivoted fork 33 cooperating with an eccentric on the main shaft 3%. The arm 31 is slotted so that the pivot for the link 32 may be adjusted for varying the oscillations of the shaft 28.
The link 60 has an integral arm 60 attached thereto and this arm carries a pin 60 having a roller 60 which engagesa slot 60 formed in a plate 60. The plate 60 is-loosely journaled on the shaft 28. A link 60 is pivoted to the plate 60 and to a rearwardly projecting lug 60 carried bythe presser bar 17. The links 59 and 60 are toggle links and their movements are controlled by the slot 60", in which the roller carried 'by the arm 60" moves. In other words, as the arm 60 oscilla tee, the roller will ride up and down in the slot. The roller fits loosely in the slot and the position of this slot is such, relative to the axis of the shaft 28, that there is very little lateral movement imparted to the link 60 during the oscillations of the arm 60 This causes the link 59 to oscillate the lever and the throw of the lever 55 substantially the same as the throw of the arm 60 When the machine is at rest and the parts are not moving, the lifting of the presser foot will cause the link 60 to swing the plate 60 and this swinging of the plate 60 causes the inclined portion of the side wall of the cam slot 60 to contact with the roller 60 and oscillate the links 59 and 60. The roller 60 i: below a horizontal line passing through the axis of the shaft 28, and, therefore, an upward movement of the plate will force the pin to the right, as viewed in Fig. 2, thus buckling further the toggles 59 and 60, and will'raise the outer end of the lever 55 and also the gathering blade from the fabric.
The bracket 57 is provided with a slot 61 and a screw 62 passing through the slot holds thebracket in adjusted. position on the overhanging arm. A stop screw 63 extends through the bracket and engages the screw 62 to aid in holding the bracket in adjusted positions. The adjustment of the bracket is in a direction transversely of the line of reciprocation of the needle bar, so that the pivotal support 54 of the supporting member for the gathering blade may be adjusted to ward and from the line of reciprocation of theneedlebar.
A sleeve 64 slides freely up and down on the rod 43. This sleeve is pivoted at 65 to a bracket 66, clamped to the needlebar 3. The bracket extends rearwardlv of the needle bar and has a fork 67, which slidingly enof reciprocation of the needle bar than the center of the sleeve 64, then the sleeve sliding up and down on the rod 43 will oscillate the same about said pivotal point 54. This pivotal point 54 may be adjusted by adjusting the bracket 57, and by this adjustment, the throw of the rod 43 about the pivotal point 51 may be varied.
As above noted, if this pivotal point 54: is in line with the center of the sleeve, then no vibration whatever will be imparted to the support for the gathering member.
From the above construction, it will be apparent that I have provided a support for the gatheringmember, onwhich the gathering blade ispivotally mounted, so it may be yieldingly pressed into contact with the fabric. A stop is also provided to limit the downward movement of the gathering memher, and this permits said gathering blade to be lifted from the fabric when the support for said blade is raised. The support for the gathering blade is raised and lowered through the oscillations of the lever 55, and is oscillated back and forth through the reciprocations of the needle bar.
The oscillations of the lever 55 are so timed relative to the reciprocations of the needle bar, and the n'lovements of the main feed dog 35, that said gathering member is moved into engagement with the-fabric when the needles begin the first part of their upward movement, and when the needles are clear of the fabricand the action of the main teed dog takes place. This gathering member will engage the upper face of the body fabric and move the same forward, crowding it underneath the upturned end 16 of the presser foot. The gathering member is then raised entirely free of thefabric and is returned for its next feeding stroke.
The oscillations of the arm 60 are brought about by the usual three-cornered cam 33 and this cam gives a movement to the arm and then a dwell, so the arm dwells while the gatheringblade is in its forward posi tion and during the feed of the fabric by the main feed dog. As is clearly shown in Fig. 13 of the drawings, when the presser foot is on the fabric, the controlling plate 60 is in its lower position and the movements of the arm 60? will cause the roller 60 to move up in. the vertical portion of the slot 60, and
this will hold the links 59and 60 from-bending, and, therefore, theleven 55 willbeiraised by this movement ofsaid arm 60; The
downwardmovement of the-arm 60 'through the links, accomplishes the lowering of the end of the lever 55 The length of the stroke of the arm 60 may be adjusted, asabovenoted, and this will vary the extent of oscillation of the lever 55 and thus vary the up and down movement of the gathering blade.
In Fig. 14L of the drawings, I have shown the controlling plate 60 shifted through the lifting of the presser bar either by the treadle or the hand lever thereof. This lifting of the controlling plate 60 occurs when the machine is at rest. .The slot 60 now becomes a cam slot operating upon the roller 60 to shift the link 60, buckling the toggles as indicated in dotted lines in this view, and this depresses the rear end of the lever 55 and thus raises the gathering blade. The roller 60 is so positioned in the slot that the first movement of the presser bar starts to'raise the presser foot before the gathering blade is raised, but the n'iovements of the parts which lift the gathering blade are so related that said gathering blade will be raised faster than the presser foot and to a point slightly above the presser foot.
In other Words, the movement of the gathering blade when the presser foot is raised, is a differential movement relative to the presser foot, and brings the gathering blade well above the presser foot to facilitate the insertion or removal of the material.
It will also be noted that the support 42 for the gathering blade may be vertically adjusted to vary the normal position of said blade when working with fabrics of different thicknesses.
The stroke of the gathering member is preferably so regulated that it is slightly greater than the feed stroke of the feed dog. This results in a feeding of the body fabric slightly faster than the body fabric is carried away from the needles by the main feed dog, and, therefore, the body fabric will be gathered sufficiently to prevent stretching of the same due to the fol lowing feeding movement of the fabric by the feed dog.
The feeding member 41' may operate upon the fabric so as to prevent the fabric being fed thereby from being stretched relative to the body fabric, or said feeding member may gather the strip being fed, or again, said member may ruffle the strip be ing fed. The result of the feeding member upon the strip depends upon the character of the material and upon the throw of said feeding member.
It is obvious that minor changes in the neeegooa what I claim as new anddesiretosecure by Letters Patent is 1. The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a feeding member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said feeding member including a support for said member, means for positively'raising and lowering said support, means actuated by the needle bar of the stitching mecn anism for moving said feeding member'back and forth, a presser foot, means for raising the presser foot and means for raising the support for the feeding member with the presser foot;
2. The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a feeding member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitchingmechanism, means for actuating said feeding'member including a support for said member, a lever attached to the upper end of said support, means for positively oscillating the lever for raising and lowering the support, means for engaging said support intermediate its ends for moving the same back and forth. a prrsser foot, means for raising the presser foot and means for raising the support for the feciling'member with the presser foot.
3; The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a feeding member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said feeding member including a support for said member, a lever pivoted to the up per end of said support, means for positively oscillating said support 'for raising and lowering said support, means attached to the needle bar and reciprocating therewith for engaging the support intermediate its ends for moving the feeding member back and forth, a presser foot, means for raising the presser foot and means for raising the support for the feeding member with the presser foot.
l. The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering member including a support for said gathering member, a lever pivotally connected with the upper end of said support, a bracket for supporting said lever, means for positively oscillating the lever for moving the support up and down, a sleeve slidably mounted on said support,
devices for attaching said sleeve to the needle bar, said sleeve being so disposed relative to the connection of the lever to the support as to oscillate the support as the needle bar moves up and down, a presser foot, means for raising the presser foot and means for raising the support for the feeding member with the presser foot.
5. The combination of a work support,
stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering member including a support for said gathering member, a lever pivotally connected with the upper end of said support, a bracket for supporting said lever, means for positively oscillating the lever for moving the support up and down, a sleeve slidably mounted on said support, devices for attaching said sleeve to the needle bar, said sleeve being so disposed relative to the connection of the lever to the support as to oscillate the support as the needle bar moves up and down, means for adjusting said bracket transversely of the line of reciprocation of the needle bar whereby the throw of the support for the-gathering member may be varied, a presser foot, means for raising thepresser foot and means for raising the support for the feeding member with the presser foot. H 6. The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering member including a support for said gathering member, means for pivotally connecting the gathering member to said support, a spring for depressing the gathering member, a stop for limiting the downward movement of said gathering member, and means for moving said support back and forth and up and down.
7 The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism, feeding mechanism, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering member including a support for said gathering member, said gathering meniber being pivotallyconnected to said support, a spring for normally pressing said member toward the work support, an adjustable arm pivotally connected to said support and extending. underneath said member for limiting the downward movement thereof, when the support therefor is raised, and means for moving said support back and forth and up and down; 7
8. The combination of" a work support, stitching mechanism including a needle bar, feeding mechanism, a gathering blade for engaging the material on the worksupport in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for actuating said gathering blade including a support for said gathering blade, said gathering blade being pivotally connected to aid support, a spring for normally pressing said blade toward the work support, an arm pivotally connected to said support and extending underneath said blade for limiting the downward movement thereof, a lever pivotally connected to the upper end of said support, means for oscillating the lever for raising and lowering said support, a sleeve slidably mounted on said support, and a bracket attached to the needle bar to which said sleeve is pivoted whereby the reciprocation of the needle bar will oscillate said support on its connection with said lever.
9. The combination of: a work support, stitching mechanism including a needle bar, feeding mechanism, a gathering blade for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism,
means for actuating said blade member including a support for said blade, said gathering blade being pivotally connected to said support, a spring for normally pressin said blade toward the work support, an a justable arm pivotally connected to said support and extending underneath said blade for limiting the downward movement thereof, a lever pivotally connected to the upper end of said support, means for oscillating the lever for raising and lowering said support, a sleeve slidably mounted on said support, a bracket attached to the needle bar to which said sleeve is pivoted whereby the reciprocation of the needle bar will oscillate said support on its connection with said lever, a bracket for supporting said lever, and means whereby said bracket may be adjusted transversely of the line of reciprocation of the needle for varying the throw of the support. V
10. The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism including a needle bar, and means for reciprocating the same, an overhanging arm in which said needle bar reciprocates, a shaft mounted in bearings in said overhanging arm, means for oscillating said shaft, a gathering member for engaging the material on the work support in advance of the needle, a support for said gathering member, a lever for raisin and lowering said support, means for positively oscillating said lever from said shaft, means for moving said support back and forth, a presser foot, means for raising the presser foot and means for raising the support for the feeding member with the presser foot.
11. The combination of a work support, stitching mechanism including a needle bar, and means for reciprocatin the same, an overhanging arm in which said needle bar reciprocates, a shaft mounted in bearings in said overhanging arm, means for oscillating said shaft, a gathering member engaging the material on the Work support 111 advance of the stitching mechanism, a lever connected to the overhanging arm, a support for the gathering member, said support being pivotall connected to said lever, an arm on said siaft, toggle links connecting said arm to said lever, and means for moving said support back'and forth.
12. The combination of a avork support, stitching mechanism including a needle bar, and means for reciprocating the same, an overhanging arm in which said needle bar reciprocates, a shaft mounted in bearingsiu said overhanging arm, means for oscillating said shaft, a gathering member engaging the material on the work support in advance of the stitching mechanism, a lever connected to the overhanging arm, a support forthe gathering member, said support being'piw otally connected to said lever, an arm on said shaft, toggle links connecting said arm to saidlever, means for moving said support back and forth, an'd'means for holding said links from substantial movement relative to each other as the arm oscillates.
V 13. The combination of a Work support, stitching mechanism including a needle bar, and means for reciprocating the same, an overhanging arm in Which said needle bar 'reciprocates, a shaft mounted in bearings in said overhanging arm, means for oscillating said shaft, a gathering member engaging the material on the work support in advance of the. stitching mechanism, 'a lever connected to-the overhanging arm, a support for the gathering member, said support being pivotally connected to said lever, an arm on said shaft, links connecting said arm to said lever, means formoving said support backand forth, means for holding said links from substantial movement relative to each other as the arm oscillates, and means whereby said links may be moved by the presser foot lifting mechanism when the 'machine is stopped for raising the gathering member from the fabric.
14;. The combination ofa avork support,
stitching mechanism, an overhanging arm.
a feeding member located in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for moving the feeding member back and forth, and means 55 for positively raising and lowering said feedingmember, said means including a lever, an arm carried by the shaft, toggle links connecting the arm to the lever, and means for holding the toggle links from substantial movement relative to each other duringfthe oscillation of the'airm, whereby the oscillations of the arm are imparted to the lever through said toggle links.
15. The combination ofa' work support,
stitching mechanism, an "overhanging arm,
a shaft mounted in said overhanging arm, a feeding member located in advance ofthe stitching member, means for moving the feeding member back and forth, and means for positively'raising and lowering said feeding member, said means including a lever, an arm carried'bytheshaft, toggle links connecting the arm'to the lever, means for holding the toggle links from substantialmovement relative to each other during the oscillations of'the arm, Wherebythe'oscillations of the arm are imparted to the lever through said toggle links, and means "whereby said toggle links maybe buckled When themachine is at rest for raising the gathering member.
'16. The combination of a iWOIk support, stitching mechanism, a feeding-member located in advance of the stitching mechanism, means for moving said feeding member back and forth, and means for'ra-isingand lowering the feeding member including a lever connected to said feedingmember,'a shaft, an arm carried by the shaft,-togg'le links connecting the arm to the lover, a normally stationary plate havinga slot-therein, an arm carried by one of the toggle links and having apin engaging said slot,said slot being so disposed as to holdthe toggle members from substantial movement relative-to each other during the oscillation of said" arm;
17. The combination of 'a'ivorksupport, stitchingmechanism, a feeding member located in advance of the stitchingmechanism, means "for moving said feeding me-mber'back and forth, and means forraismgand loivering the feeding-member including a lever connected to said feeding member, a shaft, anarmcarried by the shaft, toggle links connecting the arm to the lever, 'a normally stationary'plate having a slot therein, an arm carried by one of the toggle links and having a pin engaging said slot, said slot being so 'disposedas to hold the toggle links from substantial movement relative to eac-h other during the oscillation of said arm, and means for oscillating said plate When the presser foot is lifted so as to buckle said toggle links for raising thefeeding member.
18. The combination-Wth a work support, a stitch-forming mechanism, and a feed-ing mechanism including a presser foot, ofa feeding member independent of the foot for engaging the material on the Work support in advance of the stitch forming mechanism, mea1'1sincluding acam slot and a' pincooperating therewith for actuating said feeding member intimed relation to thejmovements of the feeding mechanism, and means under the control of the operator'for rais 1 a stitch-forming mechanism and afee'ding mechanism including a presser foot, of a feed member independent of the foot for engaging the material on the Work support in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism, means for imparting a positive four motion movement to said feeding member, said means including an adjustable connection for varying the up and down movement of said feeding member, and means under control of the operator for raising the foot and 10 for positively raising the feeding member therewith.
In testimony whereof, I afiix my signature, in the presence of two Witnesses.
JAMES R. MOFFATT. Witnesses:
R. M. NEIL, E. RATNER.
Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of latent a. Washington, D. 6.
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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3635178A (en) * 1970-04-17 1972-01-18 Home Curtain Corp Machine for making shirred curtains

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3635178A (en) * 1970-04-17 1972-01-18 Home Curtain Corp Machine for making shirred curtains

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