US1293217A - Stitch-down welt-shoe. - Google Patents

Description

W. S. SHAFT.

STITCH-DOWN WELT SHOE.

APPLICATION FILED JUNE I. I916.

1,293,217. Patented Feb. 4, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 1.

WITNESSES ATTORN EY W. S. SHAFT.

STITCH-DOWN WELT SHOE. APPLICATION FILED JUNE I. 1916.

1,293,217. Patented Feb. 4, 1919.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2- JQ L.

INVENTOH WITNESSES ATTORNEY WIIiLIS S SHAIT, 0F FARIIBAULT, MINNESOTA.

STITCH-DOWN WELT-SHOE.

Application filed June 1, 1916. Serial No. 101,128.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it' known that I, WILLIS S. SHAFI, a

citizen of the -United States, residing at.

Faribault, in the county of Rice and State of Minnesota, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Stitch-Down Welt-Shoes,

of which the following is a specification.

p My present invention relates to stitchdown welt shoes, wherein the uppers are secured to the soles by stitching the former adjacent the lower mar ins thereof, to the latter, exteriorly, with t e aid of a suitable welt.

The principal objects of my invention are to provide a shoe embodying a lining which,

in the placing and during use, will not wrinkle, become loose or out of place; and, to provide, when desired, a box toe and counter efiiciently held in place by means utilized in the securing of said lining.

Further objects of the invention are to provide for the manufacture of shoes, of the character described, where the lining is more effectively held in place than in shoes now in common use; to so dispose the lining with respect to portions of the sole that the material adjacent the lower mar in of the lining is held in place partly by the weight of the person wearing the shoe, and coming upon the sole section; and, to construct the portion of the sole, with which the lining, box

i will also prevent the toe and counter, has engagement, of one ply of material thereby avoiding chafing which otherwise might cause the lining or other elements to work loose said arrangement and construction of parts squeaking which is caused by the relative movement of the in-- ner sole with respect to the outer sole in shoes where their soles are separable.

Still further objects of the invention are to reduce the cost of'manufacture of the shoes, byso constructing the box toe and counter that they may be eflectivelysecured in place at the same time the lining is fastened in connection withthe sole section, and to so secure thebox toe and counter to the sole section, avoiding the extension ofthe lower marginal portions of such elements outwardlyof the shoe upper,-thereby roviding a shoe of the character descr bed which is neat in ap earance.

Other objects of t e invention will appear Specification of Letters Patent.

from the sole. The

. shoes, the marginal edge of the u 18 is disposed within the marglna edge of Patented Feb. 4%, 1919.

in the following detailed description, taken in connection with the accompanying draw.- in which drawings:

Figure 1 is a perspective View of a shoe partly constructed in accordance with my invention, a large portion of the. shoe upper being cut away to show details.

Fig. 2 is a partial transverse sectional view through the heel portion of the shoe.

Fig. 3 is a similar portion of the shoe.

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 2through the instep portion of the shoe.

Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a counter formed'in accordance with my invention.

-' Fig. 6 is a similar View showing the box toe.

Fig. 7 is a perspective view of a sole section.

In the drawings, where similar characters refer to similar parts throughout the several views, the shoe is shown as comprising a sole 8 which may be made up of a plurality of sections 9-10-11; and the upper 12; lining 13; and, box toe 14 and counter 15 if desired. A suitable Welt 16 is also provided to secure the upper 12 to the sole 8.

The sole section 9 has its peripheral edge split as at 17 to provide an upper flap 18, with a way 19 therebeneath. It is to be understood that, in providing the way 19 no view through the toe lngs forming a part of this specification, and

material of the sole-section is removed, as is common practice in channeling, but the material of which the sole section is composed, is merely split horizontally a short distance inwardly from the margin, the way 19 being provided as the knife blade moves about the periphery of the sole section. For the purpose of adapting this section for stitch-down the sole section.

By the formation of way 19, the lower marginal portion of the lining 13 may be bentinwardly and folded upon itself,

providing plies 20 and 21, such folded portions fitting into the said way. The margin of the lowermost ply 21 lies exteriorly of the space inclosed by the major portion of the lining, but there is no material portion of the lining beyond the margin of the upper flap 18. By

- this disposition of the liniiilg, the weight 05' e so e sec ion the user of the shoe upon tion to the procedure in placing a lining in will tend to hold the lining in place and no separate insole is required. This construction avoids chafing which otherwise might cause the lining or other elements to work loose from the sole, and squeakmg 1s prevented" since there is no insole to move relatively to the outer sole.

. As to the counter 15, the lower marginal portion is bent inwardly as at 22 and folded upon itself providing plies 23 and 24. This lower marginal portion may. fit nicely between the folds 20 and 21 of the lining at the heel portion of the shoe. The box toe 14 is also provided with plies 25 and 26, sim larly formed, and fit nicely between the plies of the lower marginal Iportlon of the linlng 13 at the toe portion 0 the shoe.

To secure either the lining, box toe or counter, or all of these elements to the sole section 9, means 27, such as st tching 1s passed through the lowermost plies 21-24 and 26 of their respect1ve elements and through the sole section 9 to the bottom thereof. The means 27 is so disposed that its upper portion comes wholly or partly within the way 19 so that no material portion of the' lower margin of these elements 13-44 or 15 projects onto the main body portion of the sole section 9, beyond the' margin of upper flap 18.

In the shaping and placing of the lining 13, it is forced into the way 19 so as to prevent wrinkling. This is in contradlstinca channel formed by the removal of material from the sole section, where it easily becomes wrinkled either in the making, or 1n use. Because of the sharp folds in the lming, as disclosed in the drawings, the lining is at once shaped and holds its shape by aid of the weight which comes upon it and the securing means 27.

Referring now to the upper, its lower marginal portion is turned outwardly and may be first secured by means 28, such as stitching, to the sole section 9. This marginal portion may then be secured to the sole and the various sections 9-10 and 11, bound together by stitching 29, the welt 16 being used to reinforcethe shoe and give finish thereto.

If desired, a filler 30, may be placed beneath the sole section 9 and with its margin within the margins of said sole section and flap 18, the securing means 27 being in close proximity to the margin of the filler.

It will be appreciated that the-finish of a shoe constructed according to my invention is neat, because no portion of the lining, box toe or counter extends underneath the outturned portion of the upper 12. The sole section 9 serves as an insole and gives body to the sole 8, while the securing means 27 is not exposed, yet may be easily placed in the manufacture of the shoe.

Changes in details may be made without departing from the spirit of my invention;

but,

I claim:

1. In a stitch-down shoe, the combination of a sole section having its periphery split at the toe portion to provide upper and lower flaps and a way therebetween, a box toe having its lower marginal portion. bent inwardly and folded upon itself, the said with the plies completely received within.

said way, a box toe having its lower marginal portion bent inwardly and folded upon itself, the said folded portion thereof lying within the folds of said lining, and means passing through the lowermost plies of said lining and box toe through the said sole section to the bottom thereof for securing said marginal portions of said lining and box toe in said way, andan upper to be brought down over the lining and secured .to the sole section to thus cover the folded marginal portion of the lining.

3. In a stitch-down shoe, the combination of a sole section having its periphery split at the heel portion to provide upper and lower flaps with a way therebetween, a

counter having its lower marginal portion bent inwardly and folded upon itself, the said folded portion being shaped to fit and be housed entirely within said way, and stitching passing through the lower flap of the lowermost plyof said counter and through said sole section to the bottom thereof, for securing said marginal portions of-said counter in said way.

4. In a stitch-down shoe, the combination of a sole section having its periphery split. at the heel portion to provide upper and lower flaps with a way therebetween, a lining having its lower marginal portion folded upon itself with the plies shaped to be received and entirely housed within said way, a counter. having its lower marginal portion bent inwardly and folded upon itself, the said folded portion of said counter lying within the folds of said lining, to be also entirely within the way, and stitching passing through the lowermost plies of said lining and counter, and through the said sole section to the bottom thereof for securing said marginal portions of said lining and counter in said way. a

5. In a stitch-down shoe, the eombination Y heel portion of the shoe, the folded plies ofii of a sole section having its periphery split to provide upper and lower flaps with a way therebetween, a lining having its lower marginal portion folded upon itself and ly-- folded upon itself,'tl1e said folded portion lying within the folds of said lining at the said lining as well as the box toe and counter being received and housed entirely within the way, and stitching passing through the lowermost plies of said lining, box toe and counter, and through said sole section to the bottom thereof for securing the said marginal portions of said lining, box toe and counter insaid way. a

'6. In a stitch-down shoe, the combination of a sole section'having its periphery split to provide upper 'and lower flaps and a wa therebetween, the marginal edge of said upper flap lying within the marginal edge of said lower flap, a lining having its lower marginal portion folded upon itself and lying-within said way, a box toe having its lower marginal portlonbent inwardly and folded upon itself, the said folded portion lying within the folds ofsaid lining at the sole portion of the shoe, a counter having its lower marginal ortion bent inwardly and folded upon itself, the said folded portion lying within the folds of said lining at the heel portion of the shoe, said parts be- .ing so'arranged that the folded edges of the ening member with the folded several members are receivedand housed entirely within the way and are within the confines outlined by the edge of the upper flap, means passing through the lowermost plies of said lining, box toe and counter, and

through said sole section to the bottom there-- offor securing'the said marginal portions of said lining, box toe and counterin said way, an upper having its lower marginal portion turned outwardly, and means for securing said outturned portion of said upper to said sole outwardly of said upper i That improvement in the manufacture of stitch-down shoes which comprises first splitting the sole at its peripheral edge to provide upper and. lower flaps, folding the marginal edge of a lining outwardly upon the main portion, placing the folded edge of the lining within the way formed between the upper and lower flaps, shaping a stifi'ening member to have a portion thereof bent and folded outwardly 'to correspond with the folding of the linlng, placing said stiffortion incased entirely within the way of t e sole and received within the folds of the lining, and then stitching through the outturned ply of the stilfening member and thelining' and through the lower flap of the sole to thus secure the lining and stiffening member fixedly in place with respect to the fold. In testimony whereof I aflix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

WILLIS S. SHAFT. Witnesses: v

A. M. SIMPSON, LOUISE PHONE-T.

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