US1273062A - Method of finishing heels. - Google Patents

Description

W. HUBBARD.

METHOD OF FINISHING HEELS.

APPLICATION FILED OCT. 11. 1916.

1,273,062; 7 Patented July 16, 1918;

ZSHEETS-SHEET I W. HUBBARD.

METHOD OF FINISHING HEELS.

APPLICATION FILED ocT. I7, 1916.

Patented July 16, 1918.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

:WILLIAM HUBBARD, OF ROCHESTER, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS;

TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, PATERSON, NEWJERSEY, A COR- PORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

' METHOD OF FINISHING HEELS.

' Patented July 16, 1918.

. Application filerl 'flctober 17, 1916. Serial No. 126,198.

' citizen of the United States, residing at Rochester, in the county of Monroe and State of New York, have invented certain Improvements in Methods of Finishing Heels, of which thefollowing description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating likeparts in theseveral figures.

' This invention relates to a method of producing a heel having an ornamental stripe of contrasting color. Y

A stripe of this sort should possess a high degree of brilliancy in order to produce the desired ornamental effect; and for the same reason its boundary lines should be very straight and even and clearly marked so that the stripe shall stand out clearly in sharp contrast to the body of the heel. A stripe painted over the colored and polished heel does not have the desired brilliancy nor is the result much improved by first removing a strip of the coloring matter of the heel and then painting a stripe on the denuded area,since the material with which the heel is colored permeates the margins of the leather or leatherboard'lifts so that in either case the desiredbrilliancy of the stripe and consequent sharp contrast between its color and that of the body of the heel is not secured. Moreover to produce by a painting operation a narrow, well defined stripe, the brilliancy of which is permanent is difiicult.

According to the method of the present invention, a thin lift of aluminum or other colored material, impermeable by the ink or stain which is used to color the heel, inserted between the permeable leather or leather board lifts which are used to make up the body ofthe heel. gThe heel with-the impermeable lift incorporated in it is colored in the usualjmanner by having appliet to its surface a coating more or less opaque according to whether a black or. a russet heelis to be produced, after which the coloring material is cleaned from the edge of the impermeable lift leaving said edge as brilliant as before the coloring material was applied. By making use in this manner of a lift which is not permeable by the coloring material a brilliant, clearly defined stripe, which sharply contrasts with the remainder of the-surface of the heel, is readily'produced. v

Referring to the accompanying draw- 1ngs,' I

Figure 1 isan elevation of an unfinished l efel having an impermeable ornamental Fig.2 is an elevation of the heel ai'ter it has been colored and waxed;

Fig. 3 is an elevation .ofthe finished heel showlng theexposed edge of the ornamental lift;

.Fig. 4 is a perspective of a portion of a I heel burnishing machine fitted with mechanism for. cleaning the edge of the ornamental lift, and. Y

Fig. 5 is a perspective showing a heel in process of having the edge of the ornamentallift cleaned. V

- Referring-now more particularly to Figs. 1,2 and 3, there is shown a Louis heel made up: of the usual leather or other lifts 7, an ornamental lift 9 which may beof celluloid aluminum or other impermeable material,

and the usual toplift 11. To this heel is applied either manually or by the use of a machine, a coloring matter such as black.- ing. The shoe is then taken to a heel burnishing machine where a coat of wax is applied and the coating smoothed and burnished. 'If the heel is to be finished in russet, the separate step of blacking or applying coloring matter to the heel is commonly omitted, such coloring matter being incorporated in the'wax and applied by theburnishing machine. In either event, the heel, after being colored and burnished, presents the appearance shown in Fig. 2, the edge of the ornamental lift being obscured by the'coating of finishing material.

other finishing from the edge The blacking and wax or material are then cleaned of the ornamental lift to shown In Fig. 3.

.1 In Flg. 4 there is shown a portion of a heel burnishing machine which has beeir fitted with means for cleaning the edge of the ornamental lift.

This machine is in general of a well'known form and will not be described in detail. It is provided with the usual iron 13 the function of which is to apply to the heel a coating of hot wax, with a smooth roll 15 to which the heel is next presented, and with a polishing brush give the effect the bolt from turning.

17 by which the wax is brushed in and polished.

Fast to the end of the rotary shaft 19 ornamental lift, this edge comprising small teeth which rapidly remove the coloring matter and wax. 'In order" to assist in the presentation of the heel to the cleaning wheel 21 a tread-rest 23 in the form of a plate is fastened-at one end to ascrew bolt 25, said bolt passing through earson a bracket 27' and having at its inner end a square head which bears against a fiat surface on the bracket and thereby prevents A thumb nut 28 provides means for moving the bolt, and with it the tread-rest, in and out. The bracket 27 is mounted on a pin 29 having at its outer end an eye, through which passes the stem of a bolt 30 which is thread ed into said bracket, the bracket thus being angularly adjustable about the axis of the bolt 30. The pin is adjustably held in a socket in one end of a supporting member 31, the other end of which is .adjustably fastened to one end of an arm 33 by a screw, the head or handle of which is indicated at 35. The hub at the end of the arm 33is split and is adjustably fastened to a stationary rod 37 by a pinch-screw 39. The tread-rest maythus be adjusted in a path parallel to the'axis of the bolt 25, angularly about the axis of the bolt 30, in a path parallel to the axis of the pin 29, and angularly about either the axis of the screw 35 or that i of the rod-37. By these adjustments it is possible to provide for heels of different shapes and for top lifts of. different thickness. 7

The method of the invention is carried out as follows: The heel is, first inked and blacked if the finished heel is to be given a black finish. It is then presented tothe iron 13 and swung around until a coating of wax is applied to the'whole lateral'surface thereof. The waxed heel'is then similarly presented to the smoothing roll 15 and thereafter to the brush 17. At this stage the lateral surface of the heel is covered with an opaque and burnished coat which obscures the edge of the ornamental lift. The

heel is then presentedto the cleaning wheel 21 in 'the manner shown in Fig; 5 and swung around so asto remove the coloring Copies 0! this patent may be obtained for matter and wax from the edge of the lift progressively beginning at a point in the junction of the lateral surface with the breast at one side of the heelpand ending with a similar point at the other sideo'f the heel. This ordinarily completes the treat-- ment of the heel, but in some cases it is de sirable to rub the cleaned edge of the lift and the adjacent coat of finishing material to remove the. dust orfchips and to polish the edge of the lift. When this further step is desirable, the heel is 1 .resen-ted-'aga-in-to the roll 15 or brush 17 or to both. i

The machine which has beenldescribed above is not claimed herein but forms the subject-matter of a divisional application Serial No. 222,131, filed March 13,1918, and the heel having the lift of impermeable material forms the subject-matter of a copending application Serial No. 111,7 39, filed July 27,1916; 2 i

Having thus described my invention,

what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is? 1. The method of producing a heel having an ornamental stripe which comprises assembling with a plurality of lifts of permeable material a lift of impermeable material, applying to the lateral surface ofthe heel so made up a coloring material which permeates the edges of" the permeable lifts but merely coats the edge oft-he impermeable lift, and then removing the coloring matter from the edge of the impermeable.

breast of the heel at one side of theheel and continuing progressively around said lateral surface to a similar pointat the other side of the heel, and at the same time limiting the removing action to the area prescribed by the boundaries of the edge of the metal lift. a

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

WILLI M HUBBARD.

five cents each, by addressing-the Commissioner or Patents, Washington, D. G. i

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