US1246730A

US1246730A - Method of making shoes.

Info

Publication number: US1246730A
Application number: US87512614A
Authority: US
Inventors: Karl Engel
Original assignee: United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Current assignee: USM Ltd; United Shoe Machinery Co AB
Priority date: 1914-12-02
Filing date: 1914-12-02
Publication date: 1917-11-13
Anticipated expiration: 1934-11-13

Description

K. ENGEL.

METHOD OF MAKING SHGES.

APPLICATION FILED Dec Patented! Nov. 13, 1917.

UNITED STATES ATNT QFETG KARL ENGEL, OF ARLINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHIN- ERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented NOV. 13, 1917.

Application filed December 2, 191 Serial No. 875,126.

To (ZZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, KARL Enonn, a citizen of the United States, residing at Arlington, in the county of Middlesex and State of M assachusetts, have invented certain Improve ments in Methods of Making Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to methods of making shoes and particularly to a. novel method of making welt shoes. In general the invention aims to produce a serviceable and neat appearing shoe which can be manufactured at a low cost and not'only with compara tively unskilled labor but also with less labor than is ordinarily required to produce a shoe of the same grade. More particularly the invention aims to construct a shoe which has the principal advantages of the well known Goodyear welt shoe and in addition is possessed of greater flexibility than said Goodyear shoe.

The invention in its various aspects will now be more particularly described in connection with the accompanying drawings which illustrate the different steps, and will then be pointed out in the claims.

Figure 1 is a perspective view of an insole made in accordance with this invention;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a last upon which the shoe may conveniently be made; and

Fig :1 perspective view, partly in section, showing the prepared upper in lasted posit ion on the last and ready to receive the outsole.

Tn carrying out the novel process of the invention a shoe upper 2 is first cut out substantially to its iinal outlines or to such size that the lower edge of the upper along the shank and at the forepart will terminate substantiall y at the last edge, thereby saving the upper leather ordinarily provided to attach the upper to the insole and which is trimmed oil in later operations. The toe and heel portions of this upper together with the toe and heel stiffen-erg are then molded, preferably by the processes described respectively in my United States Letters latent Nos. 947,895 and 1,001,745, to the shapes which these parts assume in the finished shoe. In order to provide sufficient material to enable the upper 2 to be tensioned and lasted over upon the insole and also for securing it to an insole, a narrow strip of strong canvas 3 is attached to the lower edge of the molded upper through the shank and about the forepart or in a lined shoe the lining may be extended beyond the lower edge of the upper and secured to its marginal portion. This canvas strip 3 as herein shown is secured by stitches 5 to the inner face or" the molded upper 2 along its lower edge so that it projects a considerable distance beyond said edge, a Welt 6 is also secured, preferably by the same stitches 5, along the lower edge of the molded upper 2 upon the outside thereof. The welt (3 extends through the shank and about the forepart of the upper and is secured along its inner edge so as to project outwardly.

The insole to which the molded upper 2 is secured is made in two parts so that a fastening clenching plate may be located between these parts to clench the upper securing fastenings which pass through one part of the insole, whereby these clenched fastenings may be covered in the shank and forepart'of the finished shoe by the other part of the insole and thus provide a smooth interior for the shoe. To his end the illustrated insole comprises preferably an upper flap 8 of canvas or similar material to which the upper is secured, and a lower flap 9 of leather attached to the main sole only at the toe end thereof by cement or other suitable means and terminating approximately at the forward edge of the heel seat, although an insole of leather split from the forward edge oi the heel seat toward the toe thereof and terminating short of the toe end or an insole 0:! other suitable material may also be employed. I

It has been found advantageous to provide the last 12 upon which the shoe is made With a clenching plate for the purposes above pointed out and 0 this end a sheet metal plate 13, shaped to the contour of the bottom face of the last and terminating short of the toe end thereof, is secured. to the bottom of the last, at the heel portion only, by the rivets 16. The portion of the bottom face of the last extending beyond the forward edge of the plate is provided with an additional plate 18 secured directly to the bottomv of the last by the rivets 19.

The novel last disclosed herein as used in practising the process of the present inven- 5 Q 5 Mm z w 6 1 1L Q 5 U H My 1 1 .i 1

S E v Q 1 a. as 1. m. r u L M n v "a 5; walk 125 vement scumn mpm arovmm d the "0 the iii 1 a G r6 R m Am 10 PM last, locating a clenching plate between the flaps of said insole, lasting the upper over the insole and clenching the lasting fastenings upon said: plate, and securing an outone or more points to give it the form of a.

lasted upper, securing a lasting strip to the lower edge of said upper so that it projects beyond the edge thereof, assembling an insole and said upper upon a last, lasting said upper over the insole with the aid of said strip, securing the upper through said strip to the insole and attaching an outsole to said upper.

7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in molding to its final shape the toe and heel ends of a shoe upper which is cut to such a size that its lower edge terminates substantially at the last edge, permanently securing to the lower edge ofzsaid upper an extension strip for lasting and a welt strip, providing an insole, assembling said upper and said insole upon a last, lasting said upper over said insole, securing the upper by said strip to the insole and attaching an outsole to said welt.

8. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in cutting a shoe upper substantially to its final outline, permanently sec iring to the upper along its lower marginal edge a' lasting strip which extends bevond the lower edge of the upper, securing a welt strip to the lower marginal edge of the upper along its inner edge, assembling the upper upon a lasttogether with 'an insole,']asting the upper and securing it in lasted position to the insole by the lasting strip, and attaching an outsole to the welt;

9. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in cutting a shoe up er substantially to its final outline, molding the toe end of the upper to the shape desired in the finished shoe, permanently securing t0 the lower marginal edge of the upper a lasting strip which extends beyond the outer edge of the upper and a welt strip, providing an insole, assembling the upper and the insole upon a last, lasting the upper and securing it in lasted position to the insole by the lasting strip, and attaching an outsole to the welt.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

KARL ENGEL.

Witnesses:

, WALTER BRANDT,

H. DORSEY SPENCER